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Limnophila Sessiliflora and Hygrophila Corymbosa 'Siamensis 53b' are my go to work horse fast growers for both high and low tech, the Tropica ones that come in like a sandwich packet (blister packs?) will take off better (than Tissue Culture) and be free of pests but as @Wookii has mentioned...

Hi, With all that oxygen being produced makes me think you may have your light too bright at this early stage of development. There's definitely some diatoms in there also which should dissipate with time. For now though I personally think manual removal by way of a toothbrush (or similar) on...

As @hypnogogia says above, not to trust your Nitrate test and dose full Macro, I see no mention of Potassium here. Being high tech I would also up your water changes to at least 50%/week slightly more would be better, a couple of back to back changes would be a good to begin with and while doing...

Have you got a full tank shot to get an idea of scale and what is the green on the right hand pane in the second photo?

I'm not 100% sure what you are asking but I think 'if it is OK to add the Scapers Soil to your existing tank' then you can maybe try adding some to a cup with water and keep your eye on the Ammonia levels for a few days. Knowing Dennerle it's quite possible there is no added Ammonia (similar to...

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I'm afraid I'm not too sure about this, Chilis come from small ponds and very slow moving streams and the fact they are glass surfing could be an indication of stress. Quote 'Filtration does not need to be particularly strong as it mostly hails from sluggish waters and may struggle if there is a...

As @Hanuman said above but I would also cut the duration back down to 8 hours for now and reduce the ramp times to half hour. I'm not familiar with Aquabasis Plus but I don't believe it is loaded with nutrients therefore I would be using the full fertiliser regime from day 1. With a high tech...

Sorry my bad, should know the difference between green and black by now, as @kammaroon has stated.

That's Black Beard Algae, punch it into the search box and you will have plenty to read. Cheers!

My personal view is Algexit is Salicylic Acid based and is targeted towards Green Algae whereas Easycarbo is Glutaraldehyde based and is principally directed at combatting Red Algae. Cheers!

Hi, It was reading this post that has just prompted me to update my journal before giving my thoughts which have largely been answered already by @dw1305 and @Conort2. I would have suggested not to have introduced the Buces to an immature aquarium (I know some people do it with great success)...

I'm not sure from the photograph but it looks like it would not be too difficult to remove the wood from the tank and carefully clean it up with a small wire brush in the kitchen sink. This tank is high tech and it looks like you have BBA on your filter outflow are you keeping up with your...

I agree with you, I think maturation superseded by stability is algaes biggest enemy.

👍 I've not carried a bucket for at least 25 years!

What is the volume of the tank, how many and what kind of fish have you added, if the tank has already completed the cycle it might be a case of the bacteria building up to compensate for the added fish load? Is changing 50 - 60% of the water once or twice daily out of the question?

I've found over the years that one of the main factors which is often overlooked is stability. Consistently altering water parameters, fert dosing and lighting, etc will not benefit the ecosystem and if you do change anything wait for at least 6 to 8 weeks keeping an eye on the new growth...

Easycarbo will have little to no effect on green algae, it's mainly used to combat Red Algae (Black Beard/Brush Algae). Without a couple of photographs and a list of your equipment it's difficult for anyone to give you any advice. Cheers!

It might also be slightly beneficial to slowly reduce the temp by a couple of degrees, I can see no Discus and therefore no reason for 28° being optimal for this aquarium and would suggest somewhere between 24, and 26° being the maximum. You will also save a couple of quid on your electricity...

Hi, A bit more information will go a long way: https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/please-read-the-guidelines-for-plant-help.60671/ Cheers!

Measuring PH with 0 dKH is a very haphazard affair.

Hi, I personally believe that the length of time needed to rid your tank of BBA using the Blackout Method will be far more detrimental to your plants than the BBA. For me when I have dealt with it in the past, Spot Dosing EasyCarbo and meticulous Manual Removal of badly affected leaves worked...

This didn't work for me either, seems the light is refracted down within the glass itself and was still illuminating the outer edge of the substrate. Fortunately for me it never breaks out of the substrate.

Not sure about the Chihiros but the Twinstar has to be manually switched back on after power feed disruption. Cheers!

Hi and welcome to UKAPS, I usually let the others answer the questions but seeing as no one has, here's my 2c. Mold on wood is a common occurrence when first submerged and will subside with time. If it becomes too thick just syphon it off during water changes which you should be doing fairly...

I came to the conclusion from visual comparison that it was Staghorn but it's now been in neat Easycarbo for 48 hours and is still green. Back to the drawing board!

Hi, Could anyone help make a positive ID on this algae please, I've tried to compare it with lots of photos on here and elsewhere including James 'Planted Tank' Algae Identifier and still can't tell if it's Staghorn, Hair, Thread or what? I've just noticed a couple of tufts have popped up...

hi, looks like rhizo to me, and looking at james c's algae guide the cause is related to poor flow, lack of nutrients and co2 and general lack of maintenance. without trying to sound derogatory, looking at your intake strainer and glass panels, i would have a thorough clean up both inside and...