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Any thoughts on UV treatment?

Yes, working and I can indeed see the tiny little green buts in suspension
Agreed. I can see that quite clearly now the video works. I think more filtration and you may need to balance the amount of light and nutrients. Although it does look like the kind of thing UV is good at fixing. I’ve ran UV on my pond for a couple of years and the water was always very clear. Full of more higher order algae but at least I can just pull that out.
 
Interestingly some research learned me that t5 tube are emitting some uv light. One of the differences etween my two tanks is that the old one uses t5 tube (giving some uv light) and my new tank uses led (no uv light)
This makes me more interested in using a uv device.
 
This makes me more interested in using a uv device.
UV will kill/disable free floating cells and spores. Typically clumping such things so that they can be filtered out.
Go for the biggest unit you can afford/fit in your system. I use Vecton 600 units from time to time. (See Aquatic Systems Engineering: Devices and How they Function by PR Escobal)

OR use a Salicylic Acid algaecide, dirt cheap if you make your own. (Shop strength concentrate is 10mg/litre). This will allow your plants to gain the upper hand. Strongly growing plants stop algae not by reducing nutrients but by releasing chemicals that are algaecides. If nutrient load and bright lights caused algae then the Estimate Index 'high tech' approach to the hobby would not work.
Salicylic Acid solution can also be used as a folia spray for house plants. (300 to 450 mg/litre).
Hope that this helps and all good fortune with your endeavours.
 
If nutrient load and bright lights caused algae then the Estimate Index 'high tech' approach to the hobby would not work.
Interesting - eutrophication in natural but polluted waters is generally linked to levels of Phosphate, at quite low levels, and Nitrate at higher levels than Phosphate, but still quite low compared to those in most aquariums. EI is indeed quite generous, 1-3 ppm for Phosphate, 10-30 ppm for Nitrate. I'm not a scientist so I don't express an opinion just a concern about apparently conflicting views.

Observation. Algae in my ponds is not problematic when water temperatures are low, the days short and the light intensity low. Unpicking the three is not easy. However, especially in the late spring, before the higher plants have dominated the ponds, algae can be very much the dominant photosynthesis based life form. One pond is shallow, a wildlife pond, one is deeper and has goldfish. The latter will have green water in spring which I solve with UV and filtration, very effectively. My ponds have only trace levels of Nitrate and Phosphate and the water is also generally quite soft, below 60 TDS in the wildlife pond and below 100 in the goldfish pond.

I aim to keep the water column in my planted tanks at levels of Nitrate <10 ppm and Phosphate <1 ppm. It does not stop my plants getting algae on old leaves, or sometimes on the roots of floating plants, and green filament algae seems in my experience to grow pretty much in the same environmental conditions as higher plants but if I let levels of these two nutrients consistently fall below levels which I can measure, I seem to suffer from poor plant growth, which is I suppose no surprise. My experience is that Phosphate levels above 5 ppm are associated with severe algae problems, but it may not be a cause and effect. Above 50 ppm of Nitrate algae problems all seem to be an issue. Higher temperatures and higher light levels seem to encourage light green string filament algae. Darker clump forming cladophora seems to like less intense light and accumulated organic material.

Salicylic Acid solution
Used to treat acne or have I got muddled? I thought there was evidence it is, as a low level water pollutant, beneficial to algae growth? I have never knowingly used it as an algaecide. I have found electrolysis virtually useless. Hydrogen peroxide works to a point. Though generally I go with nature and reduce light intensity, cut back on light duration or let the floating plants take over more of the surface. I've always found a photo period of full lighting more than 10 hours problematic for algae and sunlight hitting a tank is also problematic. I've also found low CO2 levels seem to damage plants and then algae takes advantage.

Strongly growing plants stop algae not by reducing nutrients but by releasing chemicals that are algaecides
Allelopathy is real, I know that, in the water kingdom I first heard of from Dianna Walstad, some I have read are less convinced of its importance in the matter of algae, and suggestm that in flowing waters this chemical process would be very difficult, in stagnant pools, matters may be very different.

I would be delighted if you and others might have some views and reading to recommend. But I stress I am not a scientist and I genuinely find chemistry in the hobby a challenge, not false modesty, just the truth.
 
Allelopathy is real, I know that, in the water kingdom I first heard of from Dianna Walstad, some I have read are less convinced of its importance in the matter of algae, and suggestm that in flowing waters this chemical process would be very difficult, in stagnant pools, matters may be very different.
I assume that allelopathy is no longer included in her current book from 2023. Allelopathy is a very difficult topic scientifically. It certainly exists at the biofilm level, but is difficult to describe scientifically. Not much is known about it yet. In my opinion, you shouldn't spend too much time on this. But you can certainly find enough scientific papers that deals with allelopathy.
 
I aim to keep the water column in my planted tanks at levels of Nitrate <10 ppm and Phosphate <1 ppm. It does not stop my plants getting algae on old leaves, or sometimes on the roots of floating plants, and green filament algae seems in my experience to grow pretty much in the same environmental conditions as higher plants but if I let levels of these two nutrients consistently fall below levels which I can measure, I seem to suffer from poor plant growth, which is I suppose no surprise. My experience is that Phosphate levels above 5 ppm are associated with severe algae problems, but it may not be a cause and effect. Above 50 ppm of Nitrate algae problems all seem to be an issue. Higher temperatures and higher light levels seem to encourage light green string filament algae. Darker clump forming cladophora seems to like less intense light and accumulated organic material.
I have the same approach and observations. Currently dosing very low amounts of NO3 and PO4, half of pps pro. Plants seem fine with it. But also use a short full power light period with that. Old tank is 11 hours on, new tank only 5.5 hours on 100% to reduce green bloom. Once thought maybe the plants needed more light but did not tried that. Instead choose to reduce ferts.

I boughtyesterday a eheim reeflexUV 800. Gonna try that. Can take a week or so before installed but I let you know the results.
 
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Used to treat acne or have I got muddled? I thought there was evidence it is, as a low level water pollutant, beneficial to algae growth?
Every substance which is 'not natural' can be described as a 'pollutant' Salicylic Acid has many uses hence it is cheap. Many algaecides are based on it. Very high profit margin and typical benign to tank inhabitants. The dearest ingredient is the bottle.
Allelopathy is real,
I would agree, though most published work is on terrestrial plants. I always think of dandelions in the lawn.
Aquariums are closed systems.
This is the crucial point.

Empirical observation is that tanks with healthy growing plants are algae free despite a water column which is nutrient rich and with bright lighting. Allelopathy must be a strong contender.
Even my slow growing plants such as Anubias are algae free.
 
Another thought. Mineralised, i.e. dry salts do not encourage algae, but metabolic waste and its degradation products and pathways do. Question: is it the rotting fish or the bacteria or bacterial toxins that would make you ill if the fish was eaten. Maybe Nitrate and Phosphate are just the measured end result, smoking guns, not causal agents. Or are the experiences of keeping planted tanks not readily transferable to the wider world.
 
Nitrate and Phosphate are just the measured end result
I follow your thinking, and metabolic waste certainly causes lots of issues in an aquarium (and in many rivers - chicken faecal matter in the Wye comes to my mind immediately) but, and it is I think hard to not add a but, in natural waters Phosphate levels and Nitrate levels at what we as aquarium plant enthusiasts would regard as perfectly acceptable levels are blamed for algae problems. This is particularly so with agricultural run off. And though I recognise completely that aquariums are essentially closed systems I am not at all clear why a river fed initially from mountain streams is more sensitive to Phosphate and Nitrate from its application as industrial fertiliser on fields, in terms of algae blooms, than an aquarium. I simply do not understand how this is the case.

The whole algae versus plant environmental advantage/niche is not clearly understood at least by me. I have used lean dosing and EI, and I have played around over decades with many a gadget and though most of the time my plants out compete most algae I simply do not have a firm conviction based on my experience and my, admittedly limited, understanding of the science, what really triggers or inhibits bothersome algae in a relatively well maintained aquarium. BBA remains a mystery to me, and yet currently my tank is free of it. Blue Green algae I've only had with high organic load and lots of light and or, high temperatures, my tank is thankfully free of it. But a dead Angel fish missed for a few days and definitely there is a risk of blue green algae. But filament green algae is currently under control in my tank, but if I let Phosphate levels rise too high by overdosing the water column I will get a problem, the point of sensitivity, the tipping point seems to me in my tank to be somewhere around 2 ppm. But unpicking the exact cause and effect is, as you illustrate with bacteria and rotting fish not always immediately clear.

I am intrigued by your use of Salicylic Acid only because I don't think I ever used it myself, and, I have read it triggers algae in natural waters. In no way do I want to appear confident that I know it will not help reduce algae in an aquarium. I simply do not have the science for such boldness.

Thank you for taking the time to respond.
 
The whole algae versus plant environmental advantage/niche is not clearly understood at least by me.
Thank you for your thoughts. Perhaps its more muck & magic than hard repeatable science. It could be that the lack of a fixed set of rules, that always work, is what makes the hobby so interesting.
One thing that is noticeable between our planted tanks and most rivers is plant density. Plant dense water courses are typically algae free or not dominated by algae. In such cases perhaps its the entire ecosystem that comes into play.
As for fish tank chemistry its in parts per million or less and school chemistry is in grams per cup full, that's why the latter is easier to understand. Its a rabbit hole I try not to go down.
 
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Thought it would take more effort to build the uv lamp into my system. But it was actually very easy. It is now on boost setting for one week. After that it will be on for 16 hours a day (my light is on for 16 hours per day from which only 5.5 hours on 100%, 2.5 hours below 20%, 2 hours between 20-50%, and 6 hours between 50 and 4100%).
Should i expect that within one week something should be noticable?
Do i need to do an extra filter cleaning for removing starving algea and other stuff?

Thanks for reading and your advice
 
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