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"Fifty Shades of Green" - (1600 Litre Sanjarami)

Well at least it is in the right ball park, it is actually a smidge lighter green than this...every now and then my camera tells little white elephants.

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A slight sidetrack, this is somthing else in the offing; "Project Nano Porn."

Nano.jpg

I could not find it in the UK so ended up shipping it from Allemagne. It will house my small tribe of Psuedomugil gertrudae "Eubenangee Swamp". The reason being I also keep the P.gertrudae "Aru II" and I can not mix them otherwise they will hybridise; rotten hybrid rainbows infest the commercial trade unfortunately.
 
Its been a long while since I started a new new scape, but Im just wondering should I be expecting pearling from Crypts and ferns at this stage? Im not seeing any. I get the feeling the plants are adjusting, there is a bit crypt melt, oh and those poor Bolbitus did not fare well being out of water if damp for several hours. I had cut all the dwarf hair grass to approx 1" before planting so now I can see alot of die off, but also some bright green leaves. These are the ones that will push forward and grow.
 
sanj said:
...but Im just wondering should I be expecting pearling from Crypts and ferns at this stage? Im not seeing any. I get the feeling the plants are adjusting, there is a bit crypt melt...
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Mate I wouldn't worry too much about pearling at this point. The melting is a warning that your have less than perfect CO2. I reckon the PAR readings you have on the first photo is fine for the first few months.

Cheers,
 
Ah Clive,

I was hoping you would have a look at my journal particularly re lighting and co2. I think that the holding tank that the plants were with no fauna (for most of the time) had a hell of a lot of co2 pumped in, i just transfered one of the tetra tecs that was on the old 8x2x2 and co2 was at the same rate but down to a 180 litre, think that change may have affected the plants. The whole waiting thing was much longer than expected, overall think plants suffered a bit.
 
hi sanj think it goes with out saying the tank is amazing i was just wondering about you lighting/PAR photos in the second shot are you using Metal Halides or just T5s
 
thanks sanj i have 4 t5 54w run front to back on my tank so it nice to know thats what sort of par id get seems to be high light
 
danmil3s said:
thanks sanj i have 4 t5 54w run front to back on my tank so it nice to know thats what sort of par id get seems to be high light
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Hi just another thing to note, different pendants might give different ratings. When researching I found that pendants like the ATI use active cooling (fans) on them to help maintain temperature of the tubes within certain boundaries which in turn helps maintain PAR values. On some passive cooled pendants people have found that high temps have an impact on the PAR output of the tubes and it can deteriorate over a short period of time.

Even if you have passive cooled pendants and even if the T5 tubes have deteriorted in regard to PAR you will still have a high light tank because you dont want the high readings I am getting with all tubes on (not for a 8-10 hour photoperiod). If you get 30-40 at substrate it is apparently plenty for light demanding plants as others have shown.
 
that's interesting ive no direct cooling didnt realise it made a difference but it makes sense im using hagen glows under a hood and they get very hot so maybe my lights not as high as i thought but still t5 so still good i might have a look see if i can diy some thing to cool them would love fast growth like to see things change
 
ATIs are more sort after in the reef hobby because hard corals often demand high PAR values of 250-400, however plants in freshwater aquaria do not need anything near that. As you might know the higher the PAR the greater the dosing of co2 and nutrients are required and smaller margin for error.
 
yes i know higher light higher ferts but i like to play do you know what the maxim par at sub straight would be not that id go that far just want to get the best out of what ive paid for
 
I'd just run the outer bulbs and then only the 4. No midday burst. No need.

You find out you have too much light the hard way.


Regards,
Tom Barr
 
sanj said:
Well at least it is in the right ball park, it is actually a smidge lighter green than
A slight sidetrack, this is somthing else in the offing; "Project Nano Porn."

Nano.jpg

I could not find it in the UK so ended up shipping it from Allemagne. It will house my small tribe of Psuedomugil gertrudae "Eubenangee Swamp". The reason being I also keep the P.gertrudae "Aru II" and I can not mix them otherwise they will hybridise; rotten hybrid rainbows infest the commercial trade unfortunately.
Click to expand...


Doh, they sell these and other dennerle ranges at waterlife freasley. me and steve saw them on our mini meet with andyh
 
In the last couple of weeks before the tank arrived I put some of my Melanotaenia Aru II in the holding tank with the plants in. Over the last couple of days I have fry in the main tank. Tried to catch some to put into my breeding tank with the others, but is not so easy catching 3-4mm long fish in such a tank.
 
plantbrain said:
I'd just run the outer bulbs and then only the 4. No midday burst. No need.

You find out you have too much light the hard way.


Regards,
Tom Barr
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Hi, on your 180 scape you started off with 3x150 HQI and 4x96 (compacts?). This must have been pretty intense. Your journal is now very long, but how did you end up lighting it; just with the 4x96w?

I do use salvinia natans in my tanks and it ends up screening some of the light, but at the moment there is very little of it. The full light period was for aesthetics/colur rendition aswell, but I have turned them off at least until biomass has increased significantly. The tubes are staggered in that they are ordered first and third or 2nd and 4th, but there is only a small difference in PAR readings from front and back of the tank.
 
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