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Consistency Deficiency

I have gotten some suggestions from the almighty cult leader @Happi of things to tweak to see if we cant get the Heteranthera and some of the others growing better 😉

I made a new batch of macro fert today, only to last 4 weeks which I think will be a good length for tweaking.
We're going up from 1.75 N to 2 N, and instead of 82%/18% Urea/KNO3 this one is 50%/50% and a touch more P and K.
Also increasing micros from 0.067 to 0.1. So;
8.86 NO3 (2 N)
0.8 PO4 (0.26 P)
3.12 K
0.1 Fe
0.05 Mn
0.02 Zn
0.02 B
0.006 Cu
0.0001 Mo
0.0001 Ni

20220511_170915.jpg
There is a shift in the balance of the tank, the new type of thread algae is increasing,
and BBA not only seems to appear in less new locations, it also seems to be going away in places where it is already established.
I didnt really expect this, and ive spent a few days staring very closely at stuff to make sure I wasnt just imagining it.
Like this pebble here with the mystery Riccardia that appeared in one of the native mosses, I could have sworn it used to have more BBA :bored:
20220511_170452.jpg
Unfortunately, because many of the mossy pebbles have been ugly lumps of black BBA growth, I havent taken many pictures of them because BBA is not very interesting to photo.
I dont have any real good before and after shots yet because of that, but I have taken some closer photos now and will monitor the development.
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A snail decided to make its way across the Pantanal exactly when I wanted to take a photo. Thanks snail
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Slimy threads like unhappy plants

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Marilia group is finally starting to look presentable from the side.

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Unhappy Heteranthera
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Ok Hydrocotyle
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Fairly happy Tonina 🤷‍♀️

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I wonder what this Crypt will end up looking like. Purchased as Silver Queen, and im not sure if I have seen many pictures of that variety submersed.
So far it doesnt look much like the emersed leaves.

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Ive gone back to JBL 20ppm liquid for the dropchecker, the CO2Art liquid I have is just too pale to be usable and once I started questioning the bromothymol blue content, I also started questioning if it is precisely 4dkh and if the readings can be trusted. I dialed the CO2 down a bit to try to get closer to 20ppm as well.

Lastly a photo of Cryptocoryne spiralis Red, its just such a lovely cheerful plant with beautiful leaves.
I wonder if the pink appearance is because of the chlorosis issue, and that I might get redder leaves when that is properly solved.
20220511_170218.jpg
 
We're going up from 1.75 N to 2 N, and instead of 82%/18% Urea/KNO3 this one is 50%/50% and a touch more P and K.
Also increasing micros from 0.067 to 0.1. So;
8.86 NO3 (2 N)
0.8 PO4 (0.26 P)
3.12 K
0.1 Fe
0.05 Mn
0.02 Zn
0.02 B
0.006 Cu
0.0001 Mo
0.0001 Ni

I suspect that those with Pantanal+Pedicatella in their tanks are going to end up with more or less very similar dosing amounts 🙂
I'm currently at:
6.2 NO3
1.6 PO4
5.2 K
0.18 Fe

Water is gH 6/kH 3-4
 
I suspect that those with Pantanal+Pedicatella in their tanks are going to end up with more or less very similar dosing amounts
Interesting :geek:
Your NO3 is lower but the rest is higher, I wonder what gives. Your GH and KH is very similar to mine, so that would make a good comparison.
You have old Aquasoil right? But you use root tabs extensively?
 
Yes my aquasoil is ancient and I add about 10 pellets of osmocote each week. They pushed down to a depth of about 5cm (I have deep substrate).

Basically my thinking is that every time I pull out, say, a Pantanal stem that has been growing a root system for 2 weeks, and then replant them with no roots, am I going to cause a shock to the stem since suddenly its root system has disappeared - in which case, having an osmocote ball right next to the replanted stem may help the stem get easier access to substrate nutrients to compensate for the sudden loss of root system (I have no scientific basis for this of course, just trial and error)

My ratios are sort of the consequence of me starting with APT EI and then recently mixing in a bit of TSN to change the ratios a bit. I am thinking of increasing NO3 to 7ppm by increasing the amount of TSN, as TSN is basically N with hardly any P or K.
 
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10 pellets of osmocote each week

When you say 'pellet' do you mean one of these:
71-Nlu3akrL._AC_SX679_.jpg


Or an individual 'ball', like one of these:

osmocote-500x500.jpg
 
ah ok, i meant 'ball' like in the 2nd photo as osmocote doesn't come in pellets like the first photo as far as i know?
 
ah ok, i meant 'ball' like in the 2nd photo as osmocote doesn't come in pellets like the first photo as far as i know?

Both images are of osmocote products, they do a range of plant different pellets - like all their products, design for terrestrial plants. I assumed you'd be using the latter, but through it was worth clarifying.
 
ah ok, i meant 'ball' like in the 2nd photo as osmocote doesn't come in pellets like the first photo as far as i know?

Both images are of Osmocote products, they do a range of plant different pellets - like all their products, design for terrestrial plants. I assumed you'd be using the latter, but thought it was worth clarifying.

Which Osmocote product do you use then? The reason I ask is many of them have several different coloured balls with different nutrient contents.
 
Both images are of Osmocote products, they do a range of plant different pellets - like all their products, design for terrestrial plants. I assumed you'd be using the latter, but thought it was worth clarifying.

Which Osmocote product do you use then? The reason I ask is many of them have several different coloured balls with different nutrient contents.

I use plantacote Triple 14 which is NPK only: Plantacote® Triple 14 | PLANTACOTE

And Starxcote which contains Trace elements: https://www.starx.com.sg/_files/ugd/03394a_b3a8c001a8fb4de4b7c4ceb8a5e3e970.pdf

I use more of the NPK version and less of the version with trace elements just in case there is 'trace metal toxicity', but so far, all the shrimp seem ok.
 
I would never even add that. That would be crazy in my opinion unless you have a giant Echinodorus or some hungry monster plant in the tank.

Again I agree completely, they caused massive problems in one of my tanks when I added just 4 of them, yet quite a number of manufacturers sell these osmocote clones in the little pill casing as 'Root tabs'. Best avoided in my opinion, but planting individual balls as @erwin123 does, is an interesting idea if all the 'balls' are of identical construction/composition.
 
Again I agree completely, they caused massive problems in one of my tanks when I added just 4 of them, yet quite a number of manufacturers sell these osmocote clones in the little pill casing as 'Root tabs'. Best avoided in my opinion, but planting individual balls as @erwin123 does, is an interesting idea if all the 'balls' are of identical construction/composition.
That's what I used to do and no problem there. I used to add 3 or 4 balls every month or so in those small glass cups when I was growing E. Udonthani and E. Quinquangulare. Those are fert eaters so I was not concerned.
 
More low effort update today than I had hoped, ive gotten sick again and currently have a fever, so im just gonna throw these pics out there so @plantnoobdude will be happy and then go lie down 🤒
Not gonna be able to do the water change and plant trimming today so im just postponing that until I feel better 🙂
In general most plants look a bit more happy after this week, so we're inching closer to a good level.

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A few days ago a package arrived from @dw1305 with two smaller forms of Bolbitis, words cannot describe how happy I am to have them 🥰
They have gotten carefully planted on the center wood, its only fair they should get center stage.
They will probably need quite a lot of time to reach full potential, I dont have long term experience with Bolbitis in high tech but my regular variety Bolbitis took almost two years to grow to full size in low tech.
Shape of the leaves depends a lot on conditions in the tank as well, so I will be comparing the three types with some caution.
The two ones from Darrel did look a little bit different on arrival, but I cant say if that just comes down to different growing conditions.
I have temporarily named them Type A and Type B to help me keep track. Type B is on the left part of the wood and type A is towards the middle/arch.
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I quite mercilessly cut down the java ferns next to the baby bolbitiseseses, I want them to get a head start before the established ferns crowd them.
Some of the leaves have turned a little bit brown, not sure if its from the hitchhiker treatment or just sudden increase in light, as I imagine my tank is a fair bit brighter than Darrel's.
I have turned down the general light level a bit today just in case it helps ease them into it.
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Emersed backup is doing pretty well, and to my great surprise none of the houseplants have died from being transferred to hydroponic.
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Will be back with more ramblings once im feeling better 😉
 

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