A noob vs some hardest plants

[Witcher]

so ph5 before co2 start is no problem ?

The Rio Negro which is one of the richest rivers in the world in terms of species/genus of fish (cardinal tetra among many others) is around 5ph - and it's not a problem at all. Of course it's full of humic acid etc and that's why it's a Black River but personally I'd die for having this acidity of water at hand.

 

[Hanuman]

The Rio Negro which is one of the richest rivers in the world in terms of species/genus of fish (cardinal tetra among many others) is around 5ph - and it's not a problem at all. Of course it's full of humic acid etc and that's why it's a Black River but personally I'd die for having this acidity of water at hand.

We are not in the Rio Negro but in a tank with tap water with dKH at 5.5 therefore water being a PH 5 seems abnormal to me. But yes, overall speaking PH 5 isn't a problem. His PH in the morning before CO2 injection should have gone up to at least 6.5 or so considering the alkalinity.

 

[eminor]

Why would you have PH 5 before CO2 starts? That doesn't look right. For that to happen it would mean you have a very poor gas exchange and your temperatures are in the low end.

Gas exchange is good, the surface agitation is plenty. Temperature is 26°c, i use rain water. pH is 5, so if i want to target 1 pH drop, i'll need to go pH4 which seems too acidic ?

I doubt my pH kit is wrong, used in the labo of a dyeing factory which need perfect water parameters, i also read that low carbonate water is hard to measure pH

 

[erwin123]

Gas exchange is good, the surface agitation is plenty. Temperature is 26°c, i use rain water. pH is 5, so if i want to target 1 pH drop, i'll need to go pH4 which seems too acidic ?

I doubt my pH kit is wrong, used in the labo of a dyeing factory which need perfect water parameters, i also read that low carbonate water is hard to measure pH

ph5-5.5 rainwater should include dissolved CO2
if you let the rainwater stand for 72 hours and measure its pH, what is the pH?

 

[Hanuman]

Gas exchange is good, the surface agitation is plenty. Temperature is 26°c, i use rain water. pH is 5, so if i want to target 1 pH drop, i'll need to go pH4 which seems too acidic ?

The other reason you could be having such low PH is because you have a new substrate that is buffering PH hard. Is that the case?
Else I only see one reason and that would be that your rain water is highly acidic.

 

[eminor]

ph5-5.5 rainwater should include dissolved CO2
if you let the rainwater stand for 72 hours and measure its pH, what is the pH?

i'll do that soon

The other reason you could be having such low PH is because you have a substrate a new substrate that is buffering PH hard. Is that the case?
Else I only see one reason and that would be that your rain water is high acidic.

i use inert sand, might be acidic rain

 

[eminor]

i might be wrong, but it seems like i have a nitrogen deficiency ? no stunted plant but growth is really slow

i dose tropica 2ml every other day

 

[erwin123]

i might be wrong, but it seems like i have a nitrogen deficiency ? no stunted plant but growth is really slow

i dose tropica 2ml every other day

ummm... how can you have nitrogen deficiency if you put osmocote into the sand and dose tropica? unless you overdosed osmocote and got some sort of metal toxicity issue....

 

[eminor]

ummm... how can you have nitrogen deficiency if you put osmocote into the sand and dose tropica? unless you overdosed osmocote and got some sort of metal toxicity issue....

could be metal toxicity yes, only 10 pellet in that tank, still too much, that thing is strong

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

but it seems like i have a nitrogen deficiency ?

That looks like iron (Fe) deficiency (pale, chlorotic new leaves), but that doesn't really fit with very soft water.

cheers Darrel

 

[eminor]

Thanks, i think i fixed the problem, the osmocote i used have three kind of pellet, the first one is fast release, the pellet is white and have no resine i thought it was the slow release one, the second is standart yellow one. The last is trace which is iron like color. I used mostly white fast release osmocote in the tank which seems to kind of crash everything. I removed the pellet, added the slow release yellow one (6 in total) and did a 90% water change. Plants are pearling, even tuberculatum, we'll see how she goes in the new conditions, i think there was iron/zinc metal toxicity. Hope 6 is not too much

KH should be near zero, i use 100% rain water, added magnesium/calcium to reach dGH 5, and 2ml tropica every other day

Funny thing is that the tuberculatum in my garbage tank is still growing without heater, so 4-6°c at night in the garage... she have pinkish roots

 

[eminor]

Day +2 after the fix

Seems like there is some growth on the tuberculatum, at least the plant seems to keep the reddish color which is a good sign ? no stunt so far

the walichii have a great pink color, i can assume she have enough light, first time i see them not stunted...

Growth speed is normal, the rotala rotundifolia is growing fast, didiplis diandra same

 

[eminor]

i'll share picture of the tuberculatum from the main aquarium tomorrow, she look stunted, stem become green, even if the new leaves are in good color they are small, weird thing is that the rotala walichii is 1 inches apart from it and is pink on the entire stem...

here is the tuberculatum from the garbage tank without co2, same rain water, no water changes, picture don't do justice, she is stunning, she's reddish brown, even the stem and lower leaves, the differences in the garbage tank is that there is no heater which mean that in night temp can go down to 4-5°c and the second is that i use fertilizer with ammonia/urea which is for outdoor plant that suffer from iron deficiency...

0.07% total nitrogen (N) of which : 0.023% ureic, 0.023% nitric, 0.024% ammoniacal. 0.04% phosphoric anhydride (P2O5) soluble in water, 0.06% potassium oxyde (K2O) soluble in water, 0.01% magnesium oxide (mgO) total.

Trace elements soluble in water: 0.00012% Boron (B), 0.000025% Copper (Cu), 0.0002% Iron (Fe)(DTPA), 0.00012% Manganese (Mn), 0.000012% Molybdenum (Mo), 0.000025% Zinc (Zn)(EDTA).

Funny thing is that tuberculatum seems to grow in medium light, of course it's early to make conclusion, few weeks in the tank is nothing. I don't even bother adding magnesium/calcium beside the mg present in the ferts

 

[erwin123]

most plants will adapt and grow in medium light. I find that CO2 supplementation usually gives the plant a nicer form. For example, I get stronger, thicker, red-coloured stems compared to no CO2. I think the same applies to many plants like Toninas. Here are some photos of my M. Roraima for comparison. The thick stem is useful because it keeps the plant straight ... my Wallichii in comparison, seem to be blown about by too much water movement and end up getting bent.

 

[eminor]

most plants will adapt and grow in medium light. I find that CO2 supplementation usually gives the plant a nicer form. For example, I get stronger, thicker, red-coloured stems compared to no CO2. I think the same applies to many plants like Toninas. Here are some photos of my M. Roraima for comparison. The thick stem is useful because it keeps the plant straight ... my Wallichii in comparison, seem to be blown about by too much water movement and end up getting bent.

Yes co2 help with coloration, shape,everything in the end, my walichii have good flow, first time i get her really pink, so far no stunt, i was afraid because new shoot coming from the bottom, usually means she's stunted, but no, she seems happy.

Tuberculatum is way harder at least in that tank, flow is okay, co2 not so sure, walichii is pearling, not tuberculatum. I received my solenoid, i can crank up the co2

 

[eminor]

Here is the tuberculatum in the principal aquarium, slow growth, co2 is plenty, look's like the leaves are poiting down, the color seems correct but the leaves are small ? as you can see behind the rotala orange juice are doing great, tuberculatum is million time harder. I doubt this is a light issue otherwise she would not grow in the garbage tank, same genetic here

 

[erwin123]

not sure why the Tuberculatum new growth at the top seems a bit stunted compared to the older growth at the bottom, keep on trying and update us on your efforts! Or just trying M.Roraima, which seems alot easier to growth and I think its equally colourful.

regarding the Orange Juice - this are freshly planted emersed stems that haven't converted yet? The new leaves should be orange, not green (otherwise its Rotala Green, not Orange)

 

[eminor]

not sure why the Tuberculatum new growth at the top seems a bit stunted compared to the older growth at the bottom, keep on trying and update us on your efforts! Or just trying M.Roraima, which seems alot easier to growth and I think its equally colourful.

regarding the Orange Juice - this are freshly planted emersed stems that haven't converted yet? The new leaves should be orange, not green (otherwise its Rotala Green, not Orange)

planted orange juice (100% certain it's orange juice) a weeks ago, the leaves is green, i use 1 * t5ho @7 cm which is supposed to be high light, i doubt it, i once added hygger 18w + t5ho, the new leaves was orange. 1 t5ho can't be high light, doubt it.

As you can see i love difficult plant, it keep me busy lol, i want to have success with tuberculatum

 

[erwin123]

planted orange juice (100% certain it's orange juice) a weeks ago, the leaves is green, i use 1 * t5ho @7 cm which is supposed to be high light, i doubt it, i once added hygger 18w + t5ho, the new leaves was orange. 1 t5ho can't be high light, doubt it.

As you can see i love difficult plant, it keep me busy lol, i want to have success with tuberculatum

if you don't have enough light to turn Rotala OJ orange (it turned orange easily in my tank), is there sufficient light for the Tuberculatum, as flowgrow says it requires high light.

 

[Wookii]

The leaf shape is wrong for OJ too, those stems still look to be in emersed form.