A noob vs some hardest plants

[eminor]

nice, I can see most of the plants growing well...
the limnophila hippuroides leaves are purple on the bottom, green at the top, so the top-down photo doesn't show the beautiful purple leaves

With 300 par, the top parts of the P. Erectus should be turning a golden yellow soon:
How to grow Pogostemon erectus

i didn't know about pogostemon, nice, so great, i can't be certain about the PAR, i dont have one, but there is lot of light with 2 t5ho

i trimmed the limnopila hippuroides, the bottom leaves are purple on the entire stem !!

 

[erwin123]

Hi Eminor, you mentioned in another thread that your tank sprung a leak? Is it fixable with silicone or are you getting a new tank? Guess you can store your plants in a pail and continue running CO2 until your new tank arrives

 

[Hanuman]

Hi Eminor, you mentioned in another thread that your tank sprung a leak? Is it fixable with silicone or are you getting a new tank? Guess you can store your plants in a pail and continue running CO2 until your new tank arrives

If I may, once a tank leaks, it's not a good idea to fix it by simply adding silicon on a specific spot unless the leak is pretty much at top where there is slightly less pressure. I think the best approach is to remove the leaking panel entirely, scrub all dried silicone and silicone it all over again, but that requires some practice if you want the job well done, else it's an ugly mess.

 

[eminor]

Hi Eminor, you mentioned in another thread that your tank sprung a leak? Is it fixable with silicone or are you getting a new tank? Guess you can store your plants in a pail and continue running CO2 until your new tank arrives

Hi, i'm getting a new tank tomorrow, the leak is in the bottom, i won't bother fixing it, plant are in a small tank actually =)

If I may, once a tank leaks, it's not a good idea to fix it by simply adding silicon on a specific spot unless the leak is pretty much at top where there is slightly less pressure. I think the best approach is to remove the leaking panel entirely, scrub all dried silicone and silicone it all over again, but that requires some practice if you want the job well done, else it's an ugly mess.

that tank leaked when i bought it, i fixed it by removing old silicon, acetone, then resealing except, i didn't change the bottom silicone because it was too hard to do it for me, i'll never buy second hand tank anymore, new or nothing =)

 

[eminor]

Hello, i had a strong smell today, i needed to go to the "plant house" what was my suprise when i saw my nemesis myriophyllum tuberculatum, was looking for here since a long time since i failed. of course the plant was not in the best conditions, floating in the water, but in good shape and good color. i paid 2.5 euros, not bad.

This time there is no way i fail, here's what i have :

1) Inline atomizer, more than 10 bps in 15 gallons, There is a lot of co2 in there, distribution is perfect.
2 ) 17 times turnover
3) 26°c water
4) pool filter sand with osmocote below
5) I won't make the mistake to go EI with that plant, i failed everytime so i will use tropica specialized nutrition 3 a week
6) 8 dGH & 5.5 dKH water, i can manage to go 0 dKH if needed
7 ) 1* 24w t5HO 1500 lumens @ 10cm (30cm between the light and the plant) i have a second bulb if needed to increase PAR
8) Last resort thing, wave maker 528 GPH
9) there is no need for a 9

I already have walichii in the tank, one stem which grow nicely so far, i always had her stunted, not there which seems good

 

[erwin123]

best of luck with the Tuberculatum! Don't forget to post regular photos!

I am growing M. 'Roraima' and its really easy to grow and has lots of sideshoots plus the colour is quite similar to Tuberculatum.
As a bonus, its stems are stronger than Wallichii which is too easily 'bent' by strong water flow....
If you can get some, do try Roraima and compare it to Tuberculatum!

 

[eminor]

best of luck with the Tuberculatum! Don't forget to post regular photos!

I am growing M. 'Roraima' and its really easy to grow and has lots of sideshoots plus the colour is quite similar to Tuberculatum.
As a bonus, its stems are stronger than Wallichii which is too easily 'bent' by strong water flow....
If you can get some, do try Roraima and compare it to Tuberculatum!

i've read that tuberculatum is a real red plant which means she need more light to do the job, i've never seen roraima in my shop sadly, i have hope for tuberculatum, we'll see, i'll update once a week or twice a week

 

[erwin123]

i've read that tuberculatum is a real red plant which means she need more light to do the job, i've never seen roraima in my shop sadly, i have hope for tuberculatum, we'll see, i'll update once a week or twice a week

Yes, i would really like to see photos of the real colour of the tuberculatum. I think a lot of internet photos the red seems artificial/photoshopped.

 

[eminor]

Yes, i would really like to see photos of the real colour of the tuberculatum. I think a lot of internet photos the red seems artificial/photoshopped.

They are, never seen true picture of it

 

[Hanuman]

They are, never seen true picture of it

- Not sure what you are referring to as red, but tuberculatum will turn to a bright brown-orange. When out of the water it will look more of a dark brown. There are several examples in this forum alone. Look at the @GreggZ 's journal or mine. I am sure you can find others if you dig a bit.

 

[Hanuman]

1) Inline atomizer, more than 10 bps in 15 gallons, There is a lot of co2 in there, distribution is perfect.

No need to go overboard. A standard 1PH drop or something in 30ppm range should suffice.

2 ) 17 times turnover

Same here. Although the more turnover the better in general in a tank, 10 times is already in the high end. Also the more you add, the more the flow there is creating more water movement specially in such a small water volume. Remember this is a plant that is naturally found in stagnante waters. It can be grown with some moderate flow. No need to expose it to tidal waves.

4) pool filter sand with osmocote below
5) I won't make the mistake to go EI with that plant, i failed everytime so i will use tropica specialized nutrition 3 a week

So you are not using EI yet you are using osmocote, which technically is the same at the end in terms of food availability. Perhaps even more than if you where dosing EI in water column. This plant requires a good amount of fertilizer to grow well, specially iron and micros. Having inadequate amounts of iron will be translated by much smaller plant tops and stunting. Also this plant has a very poor root system comparatively to other plants, which is not surprising considering it doesn't rely on anchoring since it lives in stagnante waters. This alone would push me to feed the plant in the water column more heavily, but obviously having a rich substrate is not a bad thing either.

6) 8 dGH & 5.5 dKH water, i can manage to go 0 dKH if needed

Should be fine but I would suggest starting with a lower dKH. It's always better anyway.

7 ) 1* 24w t5HO 1500 lumens @ 10cm (30cm between the light and the plant) i have a second bulb if needed to increase PAR

This plant requires heavy lighting to grow well. Not sure how much PAR that bulb is providing though. Might be enough.

8) Last resort thing, wave maker 528 GPH

There is no need for this honestly. As I said above, remember this plant is found in stagnante waters.

 

[erwin123]

- Not sure what you are referring to as red, but tuberculatum will turn to a bright brown-orange. When out of the water it will look more of a dark brown. There are several examples in this forum alone. Look at the @GreggZ 's journal or mine. I am sure you can find others if you dig a bit.

Brown-orange / coppery-brown is the sort of colour I am accustomed to seeing like in Greggz's journal - and those colours look quite similar to my M. Roraima as well.

But Eminor might be referring to photos on the internet where the tuberculatum looks very red. Even the flowgrow database has such a photo:

Myriophyllum tuberculatum

Myriophyllum tuberculatum populates slow-flowing and stagnant waters in the Asian tropics. In Europe, this milfoil is readily available in trade, in the US, however, it is not very widely spread yet. Most shops and online shops there errone...

www.flowgrow.de

I am wondering if the photo of the Tuberculatum in the flowgrow database is "enhanced" with photoshop?

 

[Hanuman]

The tops will turn reddish/pinkish under lower N concentrations but that color will then dissipate and as the plant matures it becomes darker brow or copper as you put it. Lighting will play the bigger role though and in that picture it could be that the plant was exposed to both lower N and higher lights. The picture doesn't look it's been manipulated but who knows.

 

[eminor]

No need to go overboard. A standard 1PH drop or something in 30ppm range should suffice.

Same here. Although the more turnover the better in general in a tank, 10 times is already in the high end. Also the more you add, the more the flow there is creating more water movement specially in such a small water volume. Remember this is a plant that is naturally found in stagnante waters. It can be grown with some moderate flow. No need to expose it to tidal waves.

Weird thing here is that 17 times do not seems strong flow, i clean my canister filter every two weeks, with large biomass some plant seems stagnant

So you are not using EI yet you are using osmocote, which technically is the same at the end in terms of food availability. Perhaps even more than if you where dosing EI in water column. This plant requires a good amount of fertilizer to grow well, specially iron and micros. Having inadequate amounts of iron will be translated by much smaller plant tops and stunting. Also this plant has a very poor root system comparatively to other plants, which is not surprising considering it doesn't rely on anchoring since it lives in stagnante waters. This alone would push me to feed the plant in the water column more heavily, but obviously having a rich substrate is not a bad thing either.

Could be true, because walichii is having a nice trip in the tank so far, i think some osmocote seems to find a way out the pool filter sand, maybe it does when i put a new plant in, some fertilizer go though the water column, that's why i do 30% water change twice a week.

Should be fine but I would suggest starting with a lower dKH. It's always better anyway.

We are in autumn, i can manage that, but in the long terme, i'm gonna need to split with tap water

This plant requires heavy lighting to grow well. Not sure how much PAR that bulb is providing though. Might be enough.

some times it's weird on this video, the guy tell that he use 40w fluorescent bulb on a 4ft tank, no co2 and the plant seems in really good shape

There is no need for this honestly. As I said above, remember this plant is found in stagnante waters.

Yes, i'll manage without it

 

[Hanuman]

some times it's weird on this video, the guy tell that he use 40w fluorescent bulb on a 4ft tank, no co2 and the plant seems in really good shape

So saying that the plant is good shape.... not so sure. The plant is also at the surface so basically accessing 400ppm of Co2 and very close to the light. 😬

 

[eminor]

View attachment 195926
So saying that the plant is good shape.... not so sure. The plant is also at the surface so basically accessing 400ppm of Co2 and very close to the light. 😬

not so sure about whitening on the picture, but still best looking that mine in the past, we'll see how it goes this time

 

[eminor]

little update, i added tuberculatum in my garbage tank with lots of light no co2, barely ferts, she keeps her colors, in my co2 inejcted tank, she become green, i think i injected way too much co2, ph before co2 injection was lower than 5...

my pearlweed lose her chlorophylle which is weird, i don't see other thing than too much co2 there, i used labo kit to test pH

 

[erwin123]

little update, i added tuberculatum in my garbage tank with lots of light no co2, barely ferts, she keeps her colors, in my co2 inejcted tank, she become green,

With no CO2, plants take longer to convert ... whether it will finally be green or red, it is too early to tell when there is no CO2 because growth/conversion takes more time. So 'keeps her colours' - probably too early to tell.

With CO2, plants convert/adapt much faster.

 

[eminor]

With no CO2, plants take longer to convert ... whether it will finally be green or red, it is too early to tell when there is no CO2 because growth/conversion takes more time. So 'keeps her colours' - probably too early to tell.

With CO2, plants convert/adapt much faster.

so ph5 before co2 start is no problem ?

 

[Hanuman]

Why would you have PH 5 before CO2 starts? That doesn't look right. For that to happen it would mean you have a very poor gas exchange and your temperatures are in the low end.