frederick thompson
Member
nice one zozo. i am crap with computers how did you do that. put santa hats on the fish. brilliant haha 
-
You are viewing the forum as a Guest, please login (you can use your Facebook, Twitter, Google or Microsoft account to login) or register using this link: Log in or Sign Up
Journal Freds new pond build
- Thread starter frederick thompson
- Start date
- Status
frederick thompson
Member
HOW TO ANAESTHESIA AND HOW TO TOPICAL TREAT A BACTERIAL WOUND
1 Have all your kit ready tools scalpel, tweezers, scissors, cotton buds, surgical rubber gloves. wet towels. tissue.
and medical stuff 1 x 150ml of Kusuri Masuizai Koi Sedate. 1 x 100ml Kusuri Roccal Wound Cleaner 1 x 100ml Kusuri Anti-Bac 1 x 25gms of Kusuri Orahesive Sealer Powder
1 x 50ml Kusuri Top Coat Sealer
thats basicly the kit you need ready before sadating
to sedate the fish use the Kusuri Masuizai Koi Sedate
to make sure it has gone under, or as i phrase it knocked out, watch muscle movement. it should look like this
and like this. the more you practice the easier it gets
here is what a ulcer wound looks like
now for the topical treatment next
1 Have all your kit ready tools scalpel, tweezers, scissors, cotton buds, surgical rubber gloves. wet towels. tissue.
and medical stuff 1 x 150ml of Kusuri Masuizai Koi Sedate. 1 x 100ml Kusuri Roccal Wound Cleaner 1 x 100ml Kusuri Anti-Bac 1 x 25gms of Kusuri Orahesive Sealer Powder
1 x 50ml Kusuri Top Coat Sealer
thats basicly the kit you need ready before sadating
to sedate the fish use the Kusuri Masuizai Koi Sedate
to make sure it has gone under, or as i phrase it knocked out, watch muscle movement. it should look like this
and like this. the more you practice the easier it gets
here is what a ulcer wound looks like
now for the topical treatment next
Last edited:
frederick thompson
Member
now to clean the wound with Kusuri Roccal Wound Cleaner use this
with a cotton bud and leave for a couple of minutes. then dab it away with clean tissue
then apply your topical treatment either iodine or betadine or
Kusuri Anti-Bac which is what i used this is what it should look like when finished
then the next step is to apply Kusuri Orahesive Sealer Powder
i put this on twice. give it a blow when applied to get rid of loose stuff
and this is what it looks like
then apply the liquid sealer and this is what it looks like
i just pour this over
that s it folk s that s the lot. if you follow this you won t go far wrong
with a cotton bud and leave for a couple of minutes. then dab it away with clean tissue
then apply your topical treatment either iodine or betadine or
Kusuri Anti-Bac which is what i used this is what it should look like when finished
then the next step is to apply Kusuri Orahesive Sealer Powder
i put this on twice. give it a blow when applied to get rid of loose stuff
and this is what it looks like
then apply the liquid sealer and this is what it looks like
i just pour this over
that s it folk s that s the lot. if you follow this you won t go far wrong
zozo
Member
nice one zozo. i am crap with computers how did you do that. put santa hats on the fish. brilliant haha
The moment i saw that pic i was goofing around playing with Photoshop.. I couldn't resist..
frederick thompson
Member
cheers Mort i did something the other week and copied and pasted off the web, about different koi. and it got took off. so was nt sure mate.
i am a bit thick on that type of thing. just trying to help people in my old stupid ways. haha
glad you liked it mate. i will do a few more as i go along. like fin rot. mouth rot. and some others.
the only thing i did nt add there.is i used PP Potassium Permanganate myself in the end
but that s my preference. you have to know what your doing. as it can be dangerous. if you leave the fish in the PP
to long. so i thought not to add that bit. i don t want any green newbies. to lose a quality fish to that. i have got experience at using
it now plus other treatments. i use it as a last resort. like i did on the Chag and Showa. i tried the above and it did nt work. so tried the PP
and it did. if i had nt they would have died. i have had them two fish for twenty two years now. so i thought no choice, just do it.
i read of this old koi boy on another site. and e mailed him. and he gave me the run down. and said what you got to lose. there going to die anyway.
what the problem was. with the wound being so deep on both of them. the water was going in through there body and not the proper way in the gills and mouth.
so they lost there buoyancy. plus they where drowning. sounds daft that . a fish drowning. with the PP it was strong enough to kill the Bacterial infection quick . because its 10 times stronger.
while the ANTI BAC is weaker. Like just before spring i will pp the full pond. reason, if the fish have picked anything up over winter. if any bad bacteria has got in over winter.
you see the good bacteria that fights it is dead now. plus the fish immune system to fight the bacteria has to be at 18c water warmth. 22c is ideal for fish to heal. especially koi
The PP can knacker there internal organs. i have done a few with the above. and saved them. if you remember in the spring i got that black alge, and it burns, its bad stuff. thats what
happened to 16 of my koi. i saved 12. and lost 4 of my koi. all the best mate.
i am a bit thick on that type of thing. just trying to help people in my old stupid ways. haha
glad you liked it mate. i will do a few more as i go along. like fin rot. mouth rot. and some others.
the only thing i did nt add there.is i used PP Potassium Permanganate myself in the end
but that s my preference. you have to know what your doing. as it can be dangerous. if you leave the fish in the PP
to long. so i thought not to add that bit. i don t want any green newbies. to lose a quality fish to that. i have got experience at using
it now plus other treatments. i use it as a last resort. like i did on the Chag and Showa. i tried the above and it did nt work. so tried the PP
and it did. if i had nt they would have died. i have had them two fish for twenty two years now. so i thought no choice, just do it.
i read of this old koi boy on another site. and e mailed him. and he gave me the run down. and said what you got to lose. there going to die anyway.
what the problem was. with the wound being so deep on both of them. the water was going in through there body and not the proper way in the gills and mouth.
so they lost there buoyancy. plus they where drowning. sounds daft that . a fish drowning. with the PP it was strong enough to kill the Bacterial infection quick . because its 10 times stronger.
while the ANTI BAC is weaker. Like just before spring i will pp the full pond. reason, if the fish have picked anything up over winter. if any bad bacteria has got in over winter.
you see the good bacteria that fights it is dead now. plus the fish immune system to fight the bacteria has to be at 18c water warmth. 22c is ideal for fish to heal. especially koi
The PP can knacker there internal organs. i have done a few with the above. and saved them. if you remember in the spring i got that black alge, and it burns, its bad stuff. thats what
happened to 16 of my koi. i saved 12. and lost 4 of my koi. all the best mate.
mort
Member
- Joined
- 15 Nov 2015
- Messages
- 2,384
I could be wrong as I don't have any control of this site but since you listed the source earlier and never claimed these photos were your I don't see how you are breaking any rules, the site owner might have a different opinion though so we are both naive in that area.
I find it interesting as I'm really a marine keeper and have worked in that industry, so very used to marine diseases, coral pests etc but not much experience with koi. It's also very refreshing to see someone who is knowledgeable about what they are keeping as I'd say the majority of people I met were completely clueless and disease was something they tried to find out about after they had it.
I find it interesting as I'm really a marine keeper and have worked in that industry, so very used to marine diseases, coral pests etc but not much experience with koi. It's also very refreshing to see someone who is knowledgeable about what they are keeping as I'd say the majority of people I met were completely clueless and disease was something they tried to find out about after they had it.
frederick thompson
Member
Go back about 10 years mort. I was clueless as well. Just picked stuff up as i went a long. Like take that black alge. Untill this year never heard of it. Scratching my napper for weeks wondering what the hell was wrong. Been keeping fish all my life. Never come across it. When i found this woman called trace. She read my symptoms. And we talked.
I mean you have to completely reverse what brings alge on
That stuff don t half burn as well.
She threw some on her lawn.for to get rid of the next day. And it killed her grass. By the morning. Like it had been on fire. When i cleaned my pond out. I had a rash on my arms.
Burning sensation. So imagine how the fish felt. But the power of the internet is now how we learn. So what ever i learn i will pass it on.
On the subject of all what i have put down with photo s. If it gets removed so be it. A few of you have learned of it. So some good has come out of it. I like that anout the coral and all. Fascinates me. I love watching all the documentary s on sky All the best mort. Take care fred
Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
frederick thompson
Member
MOUTH ROT AND HOW TO TREAT WITH PHOTO S
If treating mouth rot there are a few things to take in to account
the mouth is a very hard place to heal. REASONS it is always flexing and moving. plus it is always being put into gunge and dirty areas on the bottom of the pond plus the sides
so really the best place to treat mouth rot is in a quarantine tank. or some type of hospital. away from the dirty pond . this will make the healing easier as it should be clean.
if not. it won t take long for Bacteria to eat into the jaw bone
here is a picture of mouth rot
after cleaning with antibac. use iodene or anti bac
then use Orahesive Sealer Powder
then use Top Coat Sealer
this is what it is like when healed or nearly heal s or
nearly healed this is after 3 weeks of treatment
all of the above was done every 3 to 4 days over a 3
week period with the topical treatment way
if it is worst which is what one of mine was. you can make a PP Potassium Permanganate paste
by buying the pp powder or crystals. you just get an egg cup put a few drops of water in add powder or crystals
and mix until a paste is formed. and paste on to wound . or you can use chloramine t which is weaker version of PP
all the time the above was done with PP i had salt in the tank at 0.3 for 24 hours then upped it to 0.6 at 25c tempreture
i only used the paste twice. my fish was in worst condition then the above pictures.
all the best fred
If treating mouth rot there are a few things to take in to account
the mouth is a very hard place to heal. REASONS it is always flexing and moving. plus it is always being put into gunge and dirty areas on the bottom of the pond plus the sides
so really the best place to treat mouth rot is in a quarantine tank. or some type of hospital. away from the dirty pond . this will make the healing easier as it should be clean.
if not. it won t take long for Bacteria to eat into the jaw bone
here is a picture of mouth rot
after cleaning with antibac. use iodene or anti bac
then use Orahesive Sealer Powder
then use Top Coat Sealer
this is what it is like when healed or nearly heal s or
nearly healed this is after 3 weeks of treatment
all of the above was done every 3 to 4 days over a 3
week period with the topical treatment way
if it is worst which is what one of mine was. you can make a PP Potassium Permanganate paste
by buying the pp powder or crystals. you just get an egg cup put a few drops of water in add powder or crystals
and mix until a paste is formed. and paste on to wound . or you can use chloramine t which is weaker version of PP
all the time the above was done with PP i had salt in the tank at 0.3 for 24 hours then upped it to 0.6 at 25c tempreture
i only used the paste twice. my fish was in worst condition then the above pictures.
all the best fred
frederick thompson
Member
Gill area. very delicate area. couple of simple things to do to make things easier
notice the piece of card pushed gently in to gill so as not to get any treatments in the gill
also protects the scales. this is a bacteria infection first it was trimmed to good area
then topical treatment applied.
this one was painted with mercurochrome. while this is still wet apply the
oraheasive powder.
as above
above all sealed with Top Coat Sealer and ready to go back to pond
or QT
notice the piece of card pushed gently in to gill so as not to get any treatments in the gill
also protects the scales. this is a bacteria infection first it was trimmed to good area
then topical treatment applied.
this one was painted with mercurochrome. while this is still wet apply the
oraheasive powder.
as above
above all sealed with Top Coat Sealer and ready to go back to pond
or QT
frederick thompson
Member
FIN INFECTIONS AND FIN ROT
when i explain fin rot i am talking of the simple fin infection but total stripping of all the
tissues joining the fin rays together.
this is the start of fin rot so needs trimming
and then topical treating. i used PP paste
on my own fish after i trimmed back
this one has the anal fin rotting as well
which also happened to my showa and chag
this one here can be cleaned up with a scrape of any dead or dying
matter on the anal fin and topical and seal
here is a fish that has had stitches to fix a damaged ray
done with a needle into a reef knot.
if you don t have the confidence to do that use super glue
and glue them together.
all the people with very small fish as in tropical fish tanks
use a magnifying glass and tweezers ,
all the best happy fish and water keeping fred
when i explain fin rot i am talking of the simple fin infection but total stripping of all the
tissues joining the fin rays together.
this is the start of fin rot so needs trimming
and then topical treating. i used PP paste
on my own fish after i trimmed back
this one has the anal fin rotting as well
which also happened to my showa and chag
this one here can be cleaned up with a scrape of any dead or dying
matter on the anal fin and topical and seal
here is a fish that has had stitches to fix a damaged ray
done with a needle into a reef knot.
if you don t have the confidence to do that use super glue
and glue them together.
all the people with very small fish as in tropical fish tanks
use a magnifying glass and tweezers ,
all the best happy fish and water keeping fred
frederick thompson
Member
TUMOURS
The help for tumours is not all that great even if a Vet is on hand. but some can be done to help the fish
depending on size and location on the fish.
some tumours growing on the outside of fish can be removed smallish ones that look like TAGS
To remove them you will need very sharp instruments.
Blood loss can be quite large. but the good thing is koi have a very good blood clotting capability
My advice if your not confident to do this. is to get a vet to do it.
here is a small tumour
to remove this it needs to be cut at a shallow angle
hold the tumour with tweezers and cut at an angle
the reason for cutting at angle is to see how deep it goes
you may have to remove one or two scales
use tweezers.
once removed clean up the wound with cotton swab
with antibac. getting under the epidermis
then put your topical treatment on
oraheasive powder
then apply a liquid sealer
I personally have never removed a tumour.
but i would if it was a small one like the above pictures.
especially if my fish was on its to passing away.
all the best fred
The help for tumours is not all that great even if a Vet is on hand. but some can be done to help the fish
depending on size and location on the fish.
some tumours growing on the outside of fish can be removed smallish ones that look like TAGS
To remove them you will need very sharp instruments.
Blood loss can be quite large. but the good thing is koi have a very good blood clotting capability
My advice if your not confident to do this. is to get a vet to do it.
here is a small tumour
to remove this it needs to be cut at a shallow angle
hold the tumour with tweezers and cut at an angle
the reason for cutting at angle is to see how deep it goes
you may have to remove one or two scales
use tweezers.
once removed clean up the wound with cotton swab
with antibac. getting under the epidermis
then put your topical treatment on
oraheasive powder
then apply a liquid sealer
I personally have never removed a tumour.
but i would if it was a small one like the above pictures.
especially if my fish was on its to passing away.
all the best fred
frederick thompson
Member
CARP POX
carp pox is a viral infection,
The symptoms are like a white waxy lump. i have had a couple with this.
its unsightly . not much you can do with this. and its quite common
the carp pox lumps will recede, when the weather gets warmer.
also as a koi gets older, the develop an immunity to carp pox.
carp pox is a viral infection,
The symptoms are like a white waxy lump. i have had a couple with this.
its unsightly . not much you can do with this. and its quite common
the carp pox lumps will recede, when the weather gets warmer.
also as a koi gets older, the develop an immunity to carp pox.
frederick thompson
Member
decided to feed the fish in outside pond this morning. temperature 8c in pond this morning. after
i did water tests on both tank and outside pond' also did dp4 test on chlorine in the pond and tank.
here is the tablets i use for testing for chlorine in pond and tank.
here is my sample taken this morning. i do this once a week to look for chlorine
reason i trickle in and out of the pond. one is evaporation two is because my water levels have
to be spot on. for my pumps and auto rotary drum.
i have 3 pod dechlorinater . but they let a slight bit through. so i use ST every 3 days. one teaspoon full every 3
days. kills the chlorine. ST about 7 u k pounds. lasts me a year. cheap as chips. of flea bay.
Here is my water perimeters for this morning PH high
Ammonia. Nitrite. Reason for six. 3 are for tank and 3 are for
the pond.
there all good 3 on the left are the pond 3 on the right are the tank.
2 outside ones are the DP4 chlorine test. i also do nitrate once a week
on a sunday. and KH and GH on a sunday. my KH is very high here in HULL
lots of limescale. which in my case is very good on the pond side of things. its just right.
if it was to low. i would have to add baking powder every day.
THE REASON FOR THE ABOVE
at the end of the day we who keep fish. be it tropical marine or koi pond
we are water keepers and not fish keepers. to stop getting any of the medical symptoms
like i have shown mouth rot. fin rot. ulcers and lots of other bacterial infections. we have to get our water right.
that s why i call us water keepers. and not fish keepers.
and that is the reason for all the testing. so our water creatures have a nice healthy environment to live in.
I always ask this to myself. if i have a sign of infection. or see a fish with clamped fins. or sulking on the bottom. or raised scales.
what is the cause of it. because even though i cured the fish. it will still be there to do more damage to other fish
it is still in there. so the first thing i do is test my water parameters. if there ok. i then scrape my fish. put it under
the micro scope and look for things like
whitespot
costia
skin flukes
gill flukes
chilodonella
Trichodina
Lice
Anchor worms
leeches
plus ther are others these are the main ones though
i did water tests on both tank and outside pond' also did dp4 test on chlorine in the pond and tank.
here is the tablets i use for testing for chlorine in pond and tank.
here is my sample taken this morning. i do this once a week to look for chlorine
reason i trickle in and out of the pond. one is evaporation two is because my water levels have
to be spot on. for my pumps and auto rotary drum.
i have 3 pod dechlorinater . but they let a slight bit through. so i use ST every 3 days. one teaspoon full every 3
days. kills the chlorine. ST about 7 u k pounds. lasts me a year. cheap as chips. of flea bay.
Here is my water perimeters for this morning PH high
Ammonia. Nitrite. Reason for six. 3 are for tank and 3 are for
the pond.
there all good 3 on the left are the pond 3 on the right are the tank.
2 outside ones are the DP4 chlorine test. i also do nitrate once a week
on a sunday. and KH and GH on a sunday. my KH is very high here in HULL
lots of limescale. which in my case is very good on the pond side of things. its just right.
if it was to low. i would have to add baking powder every day.
THE REASON FOR THE ABOVE
at the end of the day we who keep fish. be it tropical marine or koi pond
we are water keepers and not fish keepers. to stop getting any of the medical symptoms
like i have shown mouth rot. fin rot. ulcers and lots of other bacterial infections. we have to get our water right.
that s why i call us water keepers. and not fish keepers.
and that is the reason for all the testing. so our water creatures have a nice healthy environment to live in.
I always ask this to myself. if i have a sign of infection. or see a fish with clamped fins. or sulking on the bottom. or raised scales.
what is the cause of it. because even though i cured the fish. it will still be there to do more damage to other fish
it is still in there. so the first thing i do is test my water parameters. if there ok. i then scrape my fish. put it under
the micro scope and look for things like
whitespot
costia
skin flukes
gill flukes
chilodonella
Trichodina
Lice
Anchor worms
leeches
plus ther are others these are the main ones though
frederick thompson
Member
HERE IS SOME PICTURES OF WHAT TO LOOK FOR UNDER A MICROSCOPE
in the koi world the deadliest killer of them all is white spot, along with KHV
here are some pictures
white spot
white spot cannot be killed when attached to the fish
its vulnerable when it leaves the fish. in a free swimming stage
to attack white spot we use dose of
Malachite green at 2% 10ml per 176 uk gallons and formalin at 30% 10ml per 150 uk gallons
Costia
costia is free swimming and feeds on the host withe its mouth. can also live as dry. on
such things as nets
shape is like a kidney bean
when treating costia use 2x treatments
Malachite green at 2% 10ml per 176 uk gallons and formalin at 30% 10ml per 150 uk gallons
chilodonella
Malachite green at 2% 10ml per 176 uk gallons and formalin at 30% 10ml per 150 uk gallons 2 x treatments
Trichodinia
looks like a flat disc under microscope
this is one of the easiest to get rid of.
Potassium permanganate 1.5 gm per 220 uk gallons
Skin fluke
This is what caused the ulcers on my two koi, my chag and Showa
it gets its host in numbers
here is what it looks like under a scope
Superverm 1ml per 100 uk gallons
Also salt is very good at getting rid of skin fluke a dip at 1.8% for 10 minutes once daily 4 or 5 dips . taking scrapes as you go along. and look under the microscope.
also potassium permanganate at 1.5 ppm every 4 days for two treatments
in the koi world the deadliest killer of them all is white spot, along with KHV
here are some pictures
white spot
white spot cannot be killed when attached to the fish
its vulnerable when it leaves the fish. in a free swimming stage
to attack white spot we use dose of
Malachite green at 2% 10ml per 176 uk gallons and formalin at 30% 10ml per 150 uk gallons
Costia
costia is free swimming and feeds on the host withe its mouth. can also live as dry. on
such things as nets
shape is like a kidney bean
when treating costia use 2x treatments
Malachite green at 2% 10ml per 176 uk gallons and formalin at 30% 10ml per 150 uk gallons
chilodonella
Malachite green at 2% 10ml per 176 uk gallons and formalin at 30% 10ml per 150 uk gallons 2 x treatments
Trichodinia
looks like a flat disc under microscope
this is one of the easiest to get rid of.
Potassium permanganate 1.5 gm per 220 uk gallons
Skin fluke
This is what caused the ulcers on my two koi, my chag and Showa
it gets its host in numbers
here is what it looks like under a scope
Superverm 1ml per 100 uk gallons
Also salt is very good at getting rid of skin fluke a dip at 1.8% for 10 minutes once daily 4 or 5 dips . taking scrapes as you go along. and look under the microscope.
also potassium permanganate at 1.5 ppm every 4 days for two treatments
Last edited:
frederick thompson
Member
Gill fluke
gill flukes share a lot of the things of skin fluke
gill fluke is an egg layer. but can lay eggs and they can lay in wait untill it
is just right for temperatures to suit it to hatch.so can lay dormant.
so for this reason you are never sure you have got rid of them.they can live on
the body as well as the gill. notice the 4 eye spots
superverm is one of the best. use at Superverm 1ml per 100 uk gallons
also chloramine T its treatment is strong at 15 to 20ppm. this is dependent on water ph and gh hardness
1 dose of chloramine T with respect to water ph and hardness
here is a chart
gill flukes share a lot of the things of skin fluke
gill fluke is an egg layer. but can lay eggs and they can lay in wait untill it
is just right for temperatures to suit it to hatch.so can lay dormant.
so for this reason you are never sure you have got rid of them.they can live on
the body as well as the gill. notice the 4 eye spots
superverm is one of the best. use at Superverm 1ml per 100 uk gallons
also chloramine T its treatment is strong at 15 to 20ppm. this is dependent on water ph and gh hardness
1 dose of chloramine T with respect to water ph and hardness
here is a chart
Attachments
frederick thompson
Member
Cheers Tam. all the best for christmas and the new year
frederick thompson
Member
Anchor worm
the thing with anchor worm is they have many life stages
they do not resemble an adult .
once they attach to a fish they never leave until it dies
it simply sheds its eggs into the pond from its host
one treatment of salt at 0.6 for 3 weeks will kill anchor worm
also Dimilin 1gm per 220 uk gallons
here is a chart for treatment also use code below
all the best fred
the thing with anchor worm is they have many life stages
they do not resemble an adult .
once they attach to a fish they never leave until it dies
it simply sheds its eggs into the pond from its host
one treatment of salt at 0.6 for 3 weeks will kill anchor worm
also Dimilin 1gm per 220 uk gallons
here is a chart for treatment also use code below
all the best fred
Attachments
frederick thompson
Member
QUARANTINE TANK
The quarantine tank is a godsend. the reason for this. it is separate from where the disease is.
or you can put new fish in the tank. before adding them to there new pond. because they may have infections when
you bought them. and you don t want to add this to your pond or fish tanks.
a rule of thumb to segregate for is 28 days with heat, some separate for 40 days.some bacteria operate at different temperatures. so what i do is have the
temperature set at 3c. and up it to 35c. i take it up 3 degrees at a time. every 30 hours. reason so i do not shock and stress the fish. this is done after the fish has been in the tank a few days.
obviously i add the fish at same temp as the fish bag. then take it down to 3c then back up to 35c. then back to my normal temperature of 22c all done slowly so i do not stress the fish.
stress is one of the largest killer of fish. also taking scrapes every few days. to make sure the fish is clean
another good thing about a separate medical unit. or quarantine tank is in my case its a hell of a lot cheaper.
my pond is 4500 gallons. my tank is 500 gallons, obviously treating a fish in 500 gallon is cheaper then 4500 gallon.
what i do is every now and then i net 4 fish. and scrape them them put it under the microscope. also if i see a fish sulking. Flashing. clamped fins. scales raised.
or showing redness. IE say a white fish looks pinkish in colour. also i take samples from my filters. pond sides. and put them under the scope.
if any one of these is showing into the quarantine tank that fish goes. might just be stressed. because of PH being to high. or a large swing in PH change.
in that case it will go in the tank at 0.3 salt at temp of 22c. salt is very good for stressed fish. calms them down. and leave for a few days. then water change the salt out. a little each day
there fresh water fish after all. and remember the biggest killer to our fish is stress.
knocks the immune system down.and the bugs then take advantage.
The quarantine tank is a godsend. the reason for this. it is separate from where the disease is.
or you can put new fish in the tank. before adding them to there new pond. because they may have infections when
you bought them. and you don t want to add this to your pond or fish tanks.
a rule of thumb to segregate for is 28 days with heat, some separate for 40 days.some bacteria operate at different temperatures. so what i do is have the
temperature set at 3c. and up it to 35c. i take it up 3 degrees at a time. every 30 hours. reason so i do not shock and stress the fish. this is done after the fish has been in the tank a few days.
obviously i add the fish at same temp as the fish bag. then take it down to 3c then back up to 35c. then back to my normal temperature of 22c all done slowly so i do not stress the fish.
stress is one of the largest killer of fish. also taking scrapes every few days. to make sure the fish is clean
another good thing about a separate medical unit. or quarantine tank is in my case its a hell of a lot cheaper.
my pond is 4500 gallons. my tank is 500 gallons, obviously treating a fish in 500 gallon is cheaper then 4500 gallon.
what i do is every now and then i net 4 fish. and scrape them them put it under the microscope. also if i see a fish sulking. Flashing. clamped fins. scales raised.
or showing redness. IE say a white fish looks pinkish in colour. also i take samples from my filters. pond sides. and put them under the scope.
if any one of these is showing into the quarantine tank that fish goes. might just be stressed. because of PH being to high. or a large swing in PH change.
in that case it will go in the tank at 0.3 salt at temp of 22c. salt is very good for stressed fish. calms them down. and leave for a few days. then water change the salt out. a little each day
there fresh water fish after all. and remember the biggest killer to our fish is stress.
knocks the immune system down.and the bugs then take advantage.
Last edited:
zozo
Member
Thanks Dr. Fred,
Very informative all, definitively bookmarked this.. I hope i never have to deal with any of this nasty stuff.
All tho i took home a school of pygmaea cory's from the lfs with a massive Trichodina infection 2 years ago. This nasty bugger made a few of the small guys blind. Fish vet Dr. Fiona McDonald advised me to do a 14 day Praziquantel (powder not the liquid) treatment. And it worked like a charme.
Very informative all, definitively bookmarked this.. I hope i never have to deal with any of this nasty stuff.
All tho i took home a school of pygmaea cory's from the lfs with a massive Trichodina infection 2 years ago. This nasty bugger made a few of the small guys blind. Fish vet Dr. Fiona McDonald advised me to do a 14 day Praziquantel (powder not the liquid) treatment. And it worked like a charme.
- Status
