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Cloudy Water Hazy Water and Algae!

Hi
Micro/Trace....you only need small amounts.....dose as per Flourish bottle!
Unfortunately, Solufeed only comes in 1kg Packages.
I have High K....I can send you and Trace elements...if needed.
Pay a Donation of P/P to the forum and I can send you 300 grams..... 250 grams HighK and 50 grams Trace/Micro.
 
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Hi all,
Now I am confused because there is a lot information about deficiencies and one sources saying it might be deficiency of Nitro or Fe.
I can do that one. It definitely isn't nitrogen (N), just because nitrogen is mobile within the plant and nitrogen deficiencies would cause pale green older leaves. Have a look at <"What is the “Duckweed Index” all about?">.
Micro what i have and what I have been using a bit is Seachem Flourish Comprehensive.
But it isn't comprehensive. You need a <"complete fertiliser">, one that contains all the nutrients required for plant growth. The companies <"that sell these products"> know that they are useless (or of limited use).
I will bet you will not have many plant problems if you went down the above route!
I'm not trying to be funny but @GHNelson is right, just ignore what other forums, companies or your LFS tell you. We don't have anything to sell, we want you to have a successful planted tank and we actually know most of the answers (and a lot of the science that underlies them).
I don't use tap water, because when I check full report of quality water it is Hard, I measured from tests kh is 7 gh 15.
And my tap water has more than 40 NO3 and more than 2.3 PO4 ... especially during spring sommer time.
That honestly is fine, you can use tap as a remineraliser and the small amount of added nutrients (in your 10% or 25% tap addition) is a positive. I'm a pretty shoddy aquarist, but @Geoffrey Rea uses <"similar water as his remineraliser">, and he is a proper planted tank keeper.
When I was trying to set iron on 0.08 according to calculator from ukaps.org I have more algaes like green dust...
Have a look at <"Rotala Rotundifolia - Growth Issues">.
So is that one like all in one fertiliser?
That is the micronutrient fertiliser, the <"Solufeed 2 : 1 : 4"> is the <"complete mix">. Solufeed 2 : 1 : 4 is included in the IFC nutrient calculator <"IFC Aquarium Fertilizer Calculator">.

cheers Darrel
 
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Hi
Micro/Trace....you only need small amounts.....dose as per Flourish bottle!
Unfortunately, Solufeed only comes in 1kg Packages.
I have High K....I can send you and Trace elements...if needed.
Pay a Donation of P/P to the forum and I can send you 300 grams..... 250 grams HighK and 50 grams Trace/Micro.
OK I will try do that then. Thank you a lot 🙂
So on seachem flourish comprehensive it says about to dose 1 capful (5ml) for each 250L once or twice a week.
So then I will have to calculate on my 90 litres aquarium. But there is 90 litres a general volume.

So I will try dose on 75 litres as I assuming I have 15-17kg of gravel.

Correct me if I am mistaken.

Thank you so much.
 
I can do that one. It definitely isn't nitrogen (N), just because nitrogen is mobile within the plant and nitrogen deficiencies would cause pale green older leaves.
OK that is sth new and useful. Thank you

But it isn't comprehensive. You need a <"complete fertiliser">, one that contains all the nutrients required for plant growth. The companies <"that sell these products"> know that they are useless (or of limited use
So Is this micro but not really the full one?
I'm not trying to be funny but @GHNelson is right, just ignore what other forums, companies or your LFS tell you. We don't have anything to sell, we want you to have a successful planted tank and we actually know most of the answers (and a lot of the science that underlies them).
That honestly is fine, you can use tap as a remineraliser and the small amount of added nutrients (in your 10% or 25% tap addition) is a positive. I'm a pretty shoddy aquarist, but @Geoffrey Rea uses <"similar water as his remineraliser">, and he is a proper planted tank keeper.
I could try this but I need calculate it everything with those fertilisers what you propose me.

That is the micronutrient fertiliser, the <"Solufeed 2 : 1 : 4"> is the <"complete mix">. Solufeed 2 : 1 : 4 is included in the IFC nutrient calculator <"IFC Aquarium Fertilizer Calculator">.
What is that IFC calculator? Is it made just for those Solufeed fertilisers?


Thank You all for your Help
 
Very well. let me invite you to the company of full remineralizers.
Now it's about time to mineralize your water the way you need it and not the way which fits to manufacturers of commercial remineralizers/fertilizers. I can assure you: they are both expensive and poor.
One example: Some say that there is a need for keeping alkalinity (bicarbonate content, basically) at certain level. I don't think so, but let be it. The most natural way to add alkalinity is CaCO3, calcium carbonate. Unfortunately, this compound is poorly (slowly) soluble, and when you add powdered CaCO3, the water looks cloudy for several hours. Not to disturb customers, commercial manufacturers avoid CaCO3 and replace it by perfectly soluble sodium- or potassium (bi)carbonates. WRONG. Because you get excess sodium or potassium.
I could provide more examples. The only way to make perfect water is to learn to do it oneself using individual chemicals. Among commercial fertilizers, I rather like @dw1305's Solufeed, but even that is not truly complete nor perfectly balanced.
Hi,
Sorry delaying responds but I have been reading all information what You guys send in the links about Duckweed and I have still plenty to ready on this forum. First of all plenty to learn.

But regarding this what you're saying the one fact is interesting about - why my water is getting clear shortly after photoperiod starts? Why the water is crystallising when the light is on?

Because regarding this what you are saying - the water would be hazy/cloudy/milky(whatever we call it) all the time 24hrs/7.

Unless there are some biochemical reactions under light On, and i don't understand them yet? Maybe

My first suspiciuous was when I bought the jbl test for Potassium, and the during first time testing my water, the water was so cloudy in the vial. My first thoughts was omg- it might be Kalium accumulated and it is causing me cloudy water.... but the main question is why when light off the water is cloudy, then shortly photoperiod started water is crystalising...

I also thanks to GHNelson- i am really gratefull i will have chance to try it- will get some samples soon of that solufeed what you have been all mentioning.



Would anyone be able to lead me through it ?

Kind Regards

Thank you all

Peter
 
But regarding this what you're saying the one fact is interesting about - why my water is getting clear shortly after photoperiod starts?
If the water is really clearing shortly after lights on my suspicion would be that oxygen, or lack of is causing the issue.
Had the same problem with a friends tank and he kept getting milky water a day or two after water changes, turns out he was overfilling the tank and reducing the amount of surface agitation from the filter, he only found this out by going on holida, water level dropped, more surface agitation, crystal clear tank.

Do you have decent surface agitation?

Would make sense that lights come on, plants produce oxygen, tank water clears.

BTW, just thinking out loud here.
 
it might be Kalium accumulated and it is causing me cloudy water.
Definitely not.
For 3-4 weeks (maybe more) i have problem and i am challenging with Hazy/Cloudy/milky??? but this happens when the light is off. After some Light come On then after few hours this cloudiness coming off and the water is clear.
It's truly weird and I've got no explanation at hand. @John q may be correct, but his explanation is still incomplete: lack of oxygen does not make water hazy in itself. I rather thing your bloom is organic, bacterial, and the bacteria are photosensitive.
Anyway, improving aeration is always a good thing to do. I like venturi, but it's noisy. The same counts for airstones. Spray bars are relatively silent, if arranged properly.
 
If the water is really clearing shortly after lights on my suspicion would be that oxygen, or lack of is causing the issue.
Had the same problem with a friends tank and he kept getting milky water a day or two after water changes, turns out he was overfilling the tank and reducing the amount of surface agitation from the filter, he only found this out by going on holida, water level dropped, more surface agitation, crystal clear tank.

Do you have decent surface agitation?

Would make sense that lights come on, plants produce oxygen, tank water clears.

BTW, just thinking out loud here.
And here is the next point i would like to describe.
Hazy cloudy water is as we know everyday and shortly photperiod starts it goes away.
Now I have done 2 Photos right now shortly after light is on. Photoperiod starts at 15:00.

I haven't mentioned in the main post but i have been observing my fishes during this time when I am challenging with water and situation like that. I can notice sometimes fishes are under surface catching oxygen.

The cover glass I have to protector fishes jump out from tank.

Jbl e702 is here since almost beggining and I was trying with spraybar, but then I just changed it for a normal standard knee outlet pipe.

I have really problem with fluval 107 pipes and especially outlet it is to deep under surface plus those pipes what I don't like it.

So what I want to do I am thinking to sell fluval, and just to buy another jbl e702 or little bigger e902. But e 902 I am not sure if is not too high to put it in my cabinet.

That small filter internal filter I put around 3weeks ago... it has got 250l/h. And set it to make air into the water. But even with aeration the water behaving still the same. Light on and crystalizing, Light off cloudy... and everyday like that...

Mentioning about fishes catching oxygen under surface, I was thinking about bacteria bloom and there is lack of oxygen, that is why I put that small internal filter for aeration... but it is like 4 weeks already and nothing changed....

Now the cover glass is not only to protector fishes from Jump out, but also protect evaporation of water from temp. I have in my living room around 19-20-21°C. In aquarium I set temp 23-24 to keep at least 22-23°C.

Even if this internal filter aerating water plus those two externals distributing, the water is still cloudy and after photperiod starts- crystalizing. About 1-2hr water is crystal.

During 4 weeks challenging with this problem I do 2-3 times a week tests on NH3, NO2, NO3... but all of them looks fine.
Nh3= 0
no2= 0
NO3 5-15 usually

Even I had aquariums many years ago, I didn't know a lot of about fertilising plants, but I have never had problem like this....

Thank you

Kind Regards

Peter
 

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Now is shortly before 16:00 and water is mostly I can say is crystallised. Only these plants... poor condition...

Is not even 1 hr since photoperiod started...
 

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OK, so we know a lot has happened to the aquarium regarding filters and various chemicals being added. Your comment below would suggest that the only adequate light in the room is when the aquarium lights come on:
Aquarium is standing in darker place not any daylight come inside.
I am starting to wonder if there are multiple things at play:
  • The tank is not quite cycled, whether due to being immature or with all the changes, it's started over again.
  • Not enough oxygen (choppy surface agitation) when the lights are off (or on).
  • When the lights are off, the oxygen is deficient, everything competes for the remaining oxygen, and the milky colour is the winning bacteria.
The only thing I can think of is the above. The lights being off (plus, the aquarium is in a dark location) means the plants, fish, and bacteria compete for oxygen. Once the light is on, normality is restored.

Mixing all the changes to the aquarium this could be a multi-faceted issue., not one.

Well, that's my theory! Anyone else think this could be the case, or not?
 
Hi all,
Now is shortly before 16:00 and water is mostly I can say is crystallised.
I'm clueless as well.
Only these plants... poor condition...
It will take a while for the plants to improve once iron (Fe) is plant available.

If you don't add plant available iron? Then plant growth doesn't improve, whatever else you do.

Cheers Darrel
 
Not suitable for everyone, however, I have an air pump switch on when lights go off, it supplies two air stones
I have several fish which are extremely sensitive to O2 level
I think this could be a good start, even to just temporarily prove that oxygen is a contributing factor in this issue.
More surface agitation is needed asap!
Especially when lights are off.
I agree.
 
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