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Best Filter Media

Hi all,
Seachem does not deny it's pumice but then go about justifying it all with a well crafted sales pitch.
You have to admire <"their chutzpah">, but it is exactly that, a well crafted sales pitch. All <"commercially exploitable deposits of pumice"> are very similar, for geological reasons.
It seems fairly straight forward that the more surface area there is the more bacteria that can grow and the a larger bacterial population increases their ability to reduce ammonia or nitrites. I guess the question would be is how much surface area do you need to reduce ammonia in your tank? This relationship is not exactly clear to me in a planted tank since plants perform a similar job.
It isn't really a surface area issue at all, that is all <"smoke and mirrors"> by the <"vendors of filter media"> that is supposed to perform simultaneous aerobic nitrification and anaerobic denitrification. It is back to the magic of the word <"aquarium">, it turns <"base metal into gold">. <EI DOSING USING DRY SALTS>

This is the blurb for <"MarinePure Bioblock">.
........ The combination of vast surface area and open/interconnected pores allows a thin bio-film to develop. This thin film allows bacteria to flourish because necessary nutrients are immediately available. With the open pores, old dead bio-film is easily flushed from the media and will not plug the media. Water flows through the media, not around as with other denser medias, thus utilizing the most surface area for beneficial bacterial growth.......
I'm going to suggest that it being <"worth £60"> (of any-ones money), is a bit of a stretch, when <"compared to other options">.

The prime metric in aerobic nitrification, the conversion of ammonia (NH3) to nitrite (NO2-) and nitrate (NO3-) is <"dissolved oxygen levels">. Have a look at <"The nitrifying microbes in aquariums and cycling"> and <"Is expensive bio media worth it?">.

As you say one you've introduced plants the equation is slightly different, and any requirement for the reduction in nitrate (NO3-) levels is performed either <"directly">, <"or indirectly">, by the plants.

One of the issues marine aquarists have is a lack of <"rooted flowering plants"> and expensive water changes, this means that they don't like their filters being a<"nitrate factory">, but for me it is an unalloyed good thing.

Have a look at <"Correspondence with Dr Ryan Newton - School of Freshwater Sciences, University of Wisconsin—Milwaukee">.

cheers Darrel
 
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I’ve used a variety of media over the years. For something with a good surface area (if you think you need it) with a good flow rate, Sera Siporax is pretty good. Being hollow tubes it doesn’t block easily like some other media. I still use some in one of my filters. Being made of sintered glass it’s easy enough to sterilise if you want to remove it for later use. I used H2O2 and boiling water when I removed it from one of my filters.
I’m no expert but it seems to me if you have media with a very rough surface surely you need less of it in a filter? Thinking about a small HOB maybe. Obviously if you have a large filter like a Biomaster almost any type of plastic media seems to do the trick. I’m using Ziss ZMll in my filters.
 
Hi all,
Being made of sintered glass it’s easy enough to sterilise if you want to remove it for later use. I used H2O2 and boiling water when I removed it from one of my filters.
That is definitely an advantage. We used to <"autoclave it">, but apparently a microwave also works.
I’m no expert but it seems to me if you have media with a very rough surface surely you need less of it in a filter?
Yes, I think that is very generally true, but you would want it to shed the biofilm before that layer got too thick. I like <"Eheim Substrat Pro"> (if someone else is buying), because it <"combines being physically stable"> with a good shape to shed biofilm, before it gets too thick.
Thinking about a small HOB maybe.... I’m using Ziss ZMll in my filters.
I'm going to say that a <"floating cell media"> is <"still optimum">, even in a small volume filter.
Have a look at Aquarium Science, the planted pages are <"interesting">, but he is very good <"on biological filtration">.
Aquarium_Science_filterMedia.jpg

cheers Darrel
 
In a well circulated (flow) densely planted tank I think bio media is largely unnecessary. The amount of beneficial microbial activity in a dedicated bio media in such an environment will only be a small fraction of what takes place among the substrate and plants. I am more and more leaning towards removing the Matrix from my HOBs and replace it with sponges and only rely on my filtration for circulation/flow and mechanical filtration (?).

Cheers,
Michael
 
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I have found that since changing to a mixture of pot scrubbers in lower sections and 30ppi foam in top section, time between cleaning (as determined by flow reduction) is much extended
How densely are people using pot scrubbers packing them in? I'm tempted to use this method but like... how much do I need is the question lol
 
How densely are people using pot scrubbers packing them in? I'm tempted to use this method but like... how much do I need is the question lol
You can always send us a little picture if you want some visual reassurance above what Fredi has said.
 
Pot scrubbers compress easily
I just wedge them in without crushing them
In the classics, there are around 12, with a foam block above, it’s much more simple in the 1200xl’s, the bottom tray has as many as i could fit in (in two layers), without squashing them unduly
Next time I clean a filter I will take a picture
The combination works well for me
 
Hi @Courtneybst - I just saw your post in your lovely Journal - but I did not want to stop the flow (no pun intended) there, so I am posting here!

To prevent water from taking the least path of resistance and ensure that it flows through the media, you should try to pack the pot scrubbers in a little more. As a guide, if you can see the grills below, I would add more pot scrubbers. There is a reason Oase cuts its foams to ensure they are a perfect fit (see example), and you should try to emulate that with the pot scrubbers.

I am thinking that squashing the green one up a little and adding another in that bottom corner might help achieve that.

IMG_6837.jpeg


oase-living-water-foam-biomaster-20ppi-blue-p13581-25741_image.jpg.png
 
Hi @Courtneybst - I just saw your post in your lovely Journal - but I did not want to stop the flow (no pun intended) there, so I am posting here!

To prevent water from taking the least path of resistance and ensure that it flows through the media, you should try to pack the pot scrubbers in a little more. As a guide, if you can see the grills below, I would add more pot scrubbers. There is a reason Oase cuts its foams to ensure they are a perfect fit (see example), and you should try to emulate that with the pot scrubbers.

I am thinking that squashing the green one up a little and adding another in that bottom corner might help achieve that.

View attachment 216923

View attachment 216924
Or put one end on twixt green one and tray, that’s how I pack my 1200xl’s, not sure how deep the trays are on Oase
 
Or put one end on twixt green one and tray, that’s how I pack my 1200xl’s, not sure how deep the trays are on Oase
Only about 2 inches deep, by 7 x 7 (removing the holes).

I guess there is an argument of just removing all the trays and stuffing with Pot Scrubbers! But I have not tried that and not quite sure of the implications etc.
 
Only about 2 inches deep, by 7 x 7 (removing the holes).

I guess there is an argument of just removing all the trays and stuffing with Pot Scrubbers! But I have not tried that and not quite sure of the implications etc.
Not much more shallow than mine, I am guessing an upright scrubber would compress enough
I think that the trays help prevent media bypass, and make it easier to clean, the Eheim arrives without media, which makes it much easier to choose foam, pot scrubbers, etc, a small mortgage (on top of that required to purchase the filter in the first place), is required to purchase Eheim’s recommended media😂😂😂
 
Not much more shallow than mine, I am guessing an upright scrubber would compress enough
Yep, I agree. The important thing for @Courtneybst here is to prevent 'flow-around'. Stuff a little more!
I think that the trays help prevent media bypass, and make it easier to clean
Yeah. It would be an interesting assessment, though. My calculations would show an extra 30% increase in media capacity for the Oase if all the standard foam, HELX-13 and trays were removed and replaced with Pot Scrubbers. I have not cleaned my media in 9 months so far, but I think that is mainly due to my pre-filter and bio-loading only around 65% of the capability of the filter. I am pretty sure I will get to June before I need to clean the main unit.
 
Yep, I agree. The important thing for @Courtneybst here is to prevent 'flow-around'. Stuff a little more!

Yeah. It would be an interesting assessment, though. My calculations would show an extra 30% increase in media capacity for the Oase if all the standard foam, HELX-13 and trays were removed and replaced with Pot Scrubbers. I have not cleaned my media in 9 months so far, but I think that is mainly due to my pre-filter and bio-loading only around 65% of the capability of the filter. I am pretty sure I will get to June before I need to clean the main unit.
My pre filters definitely perform both mechanical and biological functions
I am currently (😂😂) monitoring power consumption of filter motors, as a guide to when filters require cleaning, not sure it will amount to anything, it’s just a thought I had
 
My calculations would show an extra 30% increase in media capacity for the Oase if all the standard foam, HELX-13 and trays were removed and replaced with Pot Scrubbers
Not sure that would work in the the version as heater would end up being in direct contact with the filter media.
 
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