Just the pre-filter, which takes a about 5 minutes, the main filter then about every 2-3 months.
Yeah, feel free to drop me a PM at any point John.
The answer is no. All of these statements are wrong. In fact it's just the opposite and brown has nothing to do with anything.Here is what I mean:
Diatoms cannot handle as much light as plants since they are brown. They absorb more wavelengths. So, we can laser them before killing our plants. People can run high PAR algae free without killing everything - so what is excessive light? Just balance the light below the point of incinerating the plants, and then you can incinerate the diatoms.
The same may be said for BBA. But, is it the plants becoming healthy that eliminates them or the light? No clue - but I still don’t know what excessive light means.
Well, you'll have to spend a lot of money to find an instrument that can accurately and consistently measure nutrient levels. You'll not know from a hobby test kit readingWith CO2, you can get an idea of CO2 concentration from the humble drop checker. But, how do you categorically know that you have "poor nutrient levels" if you don't measure these with test kits or other instruments?
Yeah, something else was going on or you did something (or didn't do something) that is unaccounted for. PO4 cannot fix yellowing. That isn't it's function. That's the function of Nitrogen and some micronutrients such as Iron.Growth was stunted and there was some yellowing of the leaves. To my untrained eye, I suspected nitrogen, iron, magnesium or manganese deficiency. I tested the first three of these nutrients but all was OK. So, I then decided to test for inorganic phosphate and it was <0.02 mg/l. I added a phosphorus compound to the water and the plant perked up.
Chemicals such as NH3/NH4, organics and so forth.To which chemical(s) are you referring? The (Boyd) article that I referenced previously would suggest silicic acid.
I don't know what the big deal is. I mean, everything we do has to be learned. Why is this so difficult? We have provided all of the the information necessary. 95% of our problems is CO2 related. After that one only needs to think about the the macronutrients. Even so, if one has difficulty, then just add more of everything. That way one need not think.You “can’t” learn to diagnose nutrient deficiencies without ample experience and/or being able to rule out all of those things EI teaches you.
Well, you'll have to spend a lot of money to find an instrument that can accurately and consistently measure nutrient levels. You'll not know from a hobby test kit reading
95% of our problems is CO2 related.
Hi JPC,Hi @ceg4048
Do you have scientific evidence in support of the generalized statements above? The terms "accurately" and "consistently" need to be qualified. I am satisfied that many, but not all, hobby test kits are sufficiently accurate and reliable to justify their use. Otherwise, for me, it's all just guesswork. I don't have the experience to just look at an ailing plant and say it's deficient in X or Y. Dismissing all hobby test kits out of hand is something I can't get my head around. I am also OK with agreeing to disagree on these topics that seemingly divide people. Let's leave it at that - please.
I'm very interested in this one. Are we talking about the molybdenum blue method?I will get some project students in my lab so run analysis on different brands of sands/substrates to determine their exact composition and report back
But only if it is in the form of an orthosilicic acid (H4SiO4)?... Diatoms are a type of eukaryotic cell that can metabolise silicon/silica. Therefore, it can thrive in a tank containing high concentrations of silica.
Hi Darrel (@dw1305)Are we talking about the molybdenum blue method?
There is some brilliant <"Victorian slides etc">.admire the sheer fractal beauty of diatoms
I don't know, if it includes citric acid (to remove PO4---)? it probably is.Would that be the same method used by JBL?
some additional plants added, and, local P@H had one lonely little Otto in their tank, so I brought him home and plopped him in. Kept a careful watch because, well, Tiger Barbs... but a day gone by and I still have an Otto. They should have more later in the week so I'll keep an eye on this one and if all goes well I'll get him some buddies.
Hi @ceg4048Hi dcurzon,
I might have missed it, but I thought in one of your earlier post you stated that you actually turned the CO2 down? Have you turned it back up? Also, I'm not seeing a DC in the photo. Have you performed a pH profile to help understand how the CO2 is behaving? We need to know whether the CO2 is sufficient when you turn the lights on. We should have asked for that earlier.
If you float a tiny bit of paper on the surface you should be able to track it's path to give you an idea of how the flow/distribution is.
It also looks like you changed the light, which means you've added another unknown to this equation.
Could you also restate your dosing regimen?
Okay, yes, this is what we want to see. If you have the reagent style pH test kit you can take the measurements while you wait. I'm an advocate of purchasing high quality pH probes, such as the Hanna brand and other top brands. As much as people winge about pH you'd think they would invest in a quality probe and calibration solutions.Watching the food when dropping it in, I can see it travel across the top, down the front then a wisp back towards the rear. By this point the barbs have either got it, or their frenzy is affecting its path anyway. The stems at the back have a slight movement in the water. Not swaying, more like leaves gently shimmering.
|S||Brown algae - mulm builds up weekly in well established aquarium.||Algae||10|
|H||Filamentous diatoms for 2 months, nothing helps||Algae||7|
|S||Is this diatoms smothering everything?||Algae||21|
|I||Filamentous diatoms - please help, on brink of giving up||Algae||32|
|Quick Q re removing diatoms||Algae||3|
|Long Term Filamentous Diatoms||Algae||23|