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All the fishes in my tank died

Hi @maverick786us
You have very low plant mass from slow-growing plants. To help mature the aquarium, you must increase plant mass to fast-growing stems!
These can be removed later....to improve aesthetics.
Below is a heavily planted aquarium.
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hoggie
 
Hey Maverick, you're really making life hard for yourself fella. Everyone is trying to help but you seem reluctant to take in and action any advise.
Your tanks is still really dirty, everyday that passes without you getting the tank sparkling is making life harder to turn it around. I can see other algae now taking hold which will get worse very quickly. The BBA in the rear corners is a sure sign of a dirty tank and poor co2 distribution, this will get significantly worse by the day and start affecting the whole tank pretty quickly.

You really need to scrub the tank, clean all the glass, toothbrush rocks and wood, remove dead and dying plant matter and really waft your hand around your plants with to disturb the detritus before completing a 50/70% water change, dechlorinating the replacement water. Then continue this with 50% water changes daily and get some fast growing stems. In a couple of weeks you will see really solid improvement.
I'd also suggest, if you can, raise you llights to reduce intensity until you are back on track.

This really is the absolute basics of establishing an aquascape, especially with co2 and if folks can't see you helping yourself then their time and help will dry up.👍
 
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Of all the stems l have used as Hoggie mentions Hyg. Polysperma l really love this plant and it really will help cycle your tank. And taking note of post above with maintenance and water changes. Get all this together,forget about thinking of adding livestock for now
 
You was advised when you first revealed that you had these fish in an immature 60cm aquarium with wildly out of balance and fluctuating parameters to return them to the vendor and yet you chose to keep them until they sadly passed taking the Angels et al with them. I really cannot understand why you would not ask for advice and learn first before you make any decisions or purchases instead of coming here looking for answers to the problems of bad decisions which ought to have never existed in the first place.
I'm sorry if my bluntness has upset you (or any others for that matter) but when I see that photo of those poor fish it deeply saddens me.
We want you here to share our knowledge, experience and assist in helping you to achieve an acceptable outcome but please please no more impulsive purchases of anything that has a face.
Cheers!
 
Hi all,
maverick786us said:
In both my high tech tanks I used ADA SUPER POUR
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If I was going to use a bacterial supplement? I would use Tim Hovanec's - <"Dr Timothy Hovanec's comments about Bacterial supplements">.
Connswater said:
I've always played safe and used filter gunk,
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This looks to be the best source of filter inoculum, Ryan Newton <"Microbiology | Newton Lab Uwm"> talks about it in <"Correspondence with Dr Ryan Newton - School of Freshwater Sciences, University of Wisconsin—Milwaukee">.

A <"transferred plant"> would also work.

cheers Darrel
 
Iain Sutherland said:
Hey Maverick, you're really making life hard for yourself fella. Everyone is trying to help but you seem reluctant to take in and action any advise.
Your tanks is still really dirty, everyday that passes without you getting the tank sparkling is making life harder to turn it around. I can see other algae now taking hold which will get worse very quickly. The BBA in the rear corners is a sure sign of a dirty tank and poor co2 distribution, this will get significantly worse by the day and start affecting the whole tank pretty quickly.

You really need to scrub the tank, clean all the glass, toothbrush rocks and wood, remove dead and dying plant matter and really waft your hand around your plants with to disturb the detritus before completing a 50/70% water change, dechlorinating the replacement water. Then continue this with 50% water changes daily and get some fast growing stems. In a couple of weeks you will see really solid improvement.
I'd also suggest, if you can, raise you llights to reduce intensity until you are back on track.

This really is the absolute basics of establishing an aquascape, especially with co2 and if folks can't see you helping yourself then their time and help will dry up.👍
Click to expand...
Now this is giving me a scary feeling. Last night I scrapped 90% algae from the wall of the tank, the 10% area of the tank is where the plants and rocks are touching the wall, I need to figure out a way to clean it without hurting the plants, and then I am changing 40-60% water every 24 hours. The driftwood and rocks have moss and epiphyte glued on it, how do I remove algae mechanically, without hurting the plants? Every time when I see algae removal videos on YT and the author always starts by saying that algae isn't bad, if your tank has algae that means your tank I rich in nutrients and these algae also consume nitrate. How do I ensure that CO2 is distributed evenly? I placed CO2 diffuser right under the outflow of lily pipe on the opposite side of the tank, so that CO2 spreads all over the tanks instead of escaping all the way to the surface.
 
bazz said:
You was advised when you first revealed that you had these fish in an immature 60cm aquarium with wildly out of balance and fluctuating parameters to return them to the vendor and yet you chose to keep them until they sadly passed taking the Angels et al with them. I really cannot understand why you would not ask for advice and learn first before you make any decisions or purchases instead of coming here looking for answers to the problems of bad decisions which ought to have never existed in the first place.
I'm sorry if my bluntness has upset you (or any others for that matter) but when I see that photo of those poor fish it deeply saddens me.
We want you here to share our knowledge, experience and assist in helping you to achieve an acceptable outcome but please please no more impulsive purchases of anything that has a face.
Cheers!
Click to expand...
The vendor refused to return it. He said it's his policy, because he is selling the fishes at a very low price.
 
Iain Sutherland said:
especially with co2
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The key I fear, CO2/high tech and messing about with the tap water...most of us start of simple with dechlorinated tap water, moderate light, occasional modest water changes, easy plants and the O2 needs of fish prioritised. And dare I say this, "real dirty filters", full of helpful bacteria working their magic.
 
maverick786us said:
Now this is giving me a scary feeling. Last night I scrapped 90% algae from the wall of the tank, the 10% area of the tank is where the plants and rocks are touching the wall, I need to figure out a way to clean it without hurting the plants, and then I am changing 40-60% water every 24 hours. The driftwood and rocks have moss and epiphyte glued on it, how do I remove algae mechanically, without hurting the plants? Every time when I see algae removal videos on YT and the author always starts by saying that algae isn't bad, if your tank has algae that means your tank I rich in nutrients and these algae also consume nitrate. How do I ensure that CO2 is distributed evenly? I placed CO2 diffuser right under the outflow of lily pipe on the opposite side of the tank, so that CO2 spreads all over the tanks instead of escaping all the way to the surface.
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Sounds like a good start, get a journal going, post pictures and the processes you are following. You will likely get sound advise from experienced members so you can decide on an informed routine that you then stick to.
There is plenty of wood without epiphytes attached that would benefit from a brush, same for the rocks especially at the front, you might even be able to lift them out and scrub them if they aren't buried. Old credit card on the glass pushing down to substrate and behind where wood is close to the glass.

CO2, flow and distrubution is always a work in progress as the tank changes with plant mass. If you have growth issues, algae in isolated areas and don't see everything gently moving then you need to tweak it. I'd suggest moving the drop checker to the opposite side of the tank to help understand if the flow is getting around the tank. What looks to be bba in the back needs attention but a better photo will help.

Algae in its self isn't bad but in an aquascape the idea is to minimise it. It also isn't caused by excess nutrients, its caused by inbalance of light, flow ,co2 and nutrients.

All this info is available within the articles section of the forum. Please read them and arm yourself with this info and then ask questions, IN A JOURNAL, based on what you have learnt. Happy to help but you gotta do the work first fella 😉👍
 
Iain Sutherland said:
Sounds like a good start, get a journal going, post pictures and the processes you are following. You will likely get sound advise from experienced members so you can decide on an informed routine that you then stick to.
There is plenty of wood without epiphytes attached that would benefit from a brush, same for the rocks especially at the front, you might even be able to lift them out and scrub them if they aren't buried. Old credit card on the glass pushing down to substrate and behind where wood is close to the glass.

CO2, flow and distrubution is always a work in progress as the tank changes with plant mass. If you have growth issues, algae in isolated areas and don't see everything gently moving then you need to tweak it. I'd suggest moving the drop checker to the opposite side of the tank to help understand if the flow is getting around the tank. What looks to be bba in the back needs attention but a better photo will help.

Algae in its self isn't bad but in an aquascape the idea is to minimise it. It also isn't caused by excess nutrients, its caused by inbalance of light, flow ,co2 and nutrients.

All this info is available within the articles section of the forum. Please read them and arm yourself with this info and then ask questions, IN A JOURNAL, based on what you have learnt. Happy to help but you gotta do the work first fella 😉👍
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1737226572501.jpeg
 
There are still areas with algae on the glass, on the front at the bottom and on the back that call all be easily cleaned without disturbing the wood.

As to light, whilst you may not be able to adjust the brightness, you can adjust the length of illumination. You might also explore having the light higher above the water surface.
 
maverick786us said:
View attachment 226032
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Can you not cover the light with a strip of black tape? Also in all your photos the drop checker is blue, that needs to be green at lights on and stay green throughout photoperiod especially if you can't dim the light, you are asking the plants to grow at 100% speed while not providing the co2 fuel to support this.
 
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Sammy I said:
Can you not cover the light with a strip of black tape? Also in all your photos the drop checker is blue, that needs to be green at lights on and stay green throughout photoperiod especially if you can't dim the light, you are asking the plants to grow at 100% speed while not providing the co2 fuel to support this.
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I took the picture a couple of hours after it had already completed 8 hours of photo period. I will increase the bubble count of CO2 and I will use black tapes on the light
 
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The tank doesn't look so bad to me. I would not add any animals (fish, shrimp, snails) until you get your plants happy - not for at least one month. Add CO2 in an amount that gets you a green drop checker. Haters gonna hate but I would also dose liquid carbon to the water column at the maximum recommended amount. In terms of plants you could try Cryptocoryne nurii and
Schismatoglottis prietoi in addition to the other good suggestions from people here. These grow well for me and look pretty in a small setup.
 
I have scrapped more algae, and I slightly increased the level of CO2. I planted a pair of fast growing plant Rotala red mint on both side of the background. All I need is put black tape on the light. I have ordered the fast growing "Amaze Aqua Hygrophila Polysperma" which I should get it by Monday. In these conditions plants are growing, some of the hair grass has reached 6 inches, the mosses on the driftwood is growing and spreading. All I am waiting for is the grass to form runners and spread instead of growing vertically.

1737281593619.jpeg
 
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