A Little Slice Of Nature

[Deano3]

When i stop doing daily water changes I will most likely have to adjust co2 wont i ?

As on morning the drop checker is dark green but after a 70 percent water changes goes more blue as taking any remining co2 out of the water column so when only every other day the co2 will still he present in water colour so need less to get lime green ?

Currently co2 on at 10.00 and lights on at 14.00 trykng to get lime green but still tweaking.

At moment its uncountable bubbles in the bubble counter.

Also when doing water change i use same hose that i drain with so need another at some point but i set draining and wave plants around etc but think need a hose i can move around the tank to get as much detritus as possible instead of having inlet u-tube on from filter and leaving in same place as dont think sucks up detritus as efficiently, what do yous use ?

Dean

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

 

[ChrisD80]

think need a hose i can move around the tank to get as much detritus as possible instead of having inlet u-tube on from filter and leaving in same place as dont think sucks up detritus as efficiently, what do yous use ?

I recently started using a 12mm ID 2m long silicone hose when I need more accurate siphoning. Goes into a plastic box on the floor in front of the aquarium and then I just scoop from the box using a bucket to the toilet in the next room. The use of the box is just incase I siphon up any livestock. Find the silicone material and the shorter length much nicer to use than my main longer pvc hose. Originally got the idea from Ryo Wanatabe on YouTube.

Cheers
Chris


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SRP3006]

When i stop doing daily water changes I will most likely have to adjust co2 wont i ?

As on morning the drop checker is dark green but after a 70 percent water changes goes more blue as taking any remining co2 out of the water column so when only every other day the co2 will still he present in water colour so need less to get lime green ?

Is the co2 on before you do your water change?
My drop checker is always blue before my gas comes on in the morning as I try to gas off any remaining co2 in the water and increase oxygen saturation. The way I understand it is that helps the whole system as high o2 in turn helps high co2 levels.
Do you lift your lily pipes at night or turn on a surface skimmer?

I get what you mean with the hose not siphoning the crud out of the water and around the plants. I use a turkey baster about 15min before I start the water change to get as many pieces up in the water column. Today I've rigged up a spare very small external filter to try and use to siphon out the rubbish.

 

[Deano3]

Is the co2 on before you do your water change?
My drop checker is always blue before my gas comes on in the morning as I try to gas off any remaining co2 in the water and increase oxygen saturation. The way I understand it is that helps the whole system as high o2 in turn helps high co2 levels.
Do you lift your lily pipes at night or turn on a surface skimmer?

I get what you mean with the hose not siphoning the crud out of the water and around the plants. I use a turkey baster about 15min before I start the water change to get as many pieces up in the water column. Today I've rigged up a spare very small external filter to try and use to siphon out the rubbish.

No i dont lift lilly pipe as got good surface movement and lily pipe is always on as got the EA set.

Also the water change is done before co2 comes on at 10. So co2 on for a good 4 hours at uncountable rate and i have drop checker near inlet.

The drop checker is more green than blue before water change and blue after so mustnt be gassing off as much.

The skimmer still bobbin up and down so put a cable tie on for now until.can get a o-ring from work

Dean

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

 

[Deano3]

Quick update things seem to be going well, some crypt leaves melted and just fell off and removed some monte carlo from rocks, still struggling to lime green drop checker and doesnt seem to be much growth from the rotala looking a vit worse for wear but hopefully still in transition.

Should i removed the melting crypt leaves ? Also be doing water change every other day from tomorro and have some algae on wood but sure its normal.

Dean

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

 

[LondonDragon]

Should i removed the melting crypt leaves ?

I cut all the leaves on mine, they are growing in fine now but has taken 3 months!! Just chop the melting ones they will just pollute the tank anyway!

have some algae on wood but sure its normal.

That white stuff, just add some Amanos to the tank, and they will eat it in no time!

 

[Geoffrey Rea]

The skimmer still bobbin up and down so put a cable tie on for now until.can get a o-ring from work

Use a syringe to put enough air in the float to keep it buoyant.

 

[Deano3]

Thanks Geoffrey and paulo how long you recommend waiting to add amanos as have 4 in 45p

And i have tried turing the adjister on bottom of intake and also tried syringe to add air under the float with no success.

It is now fully open at bottom and and still bobs up and down then sucks skimmer under the water and happens if bottom closed or open , got a xable tie holding at correct level at moment.

The sand i am using is very very fine and seems to cover some of buce leaves etc but will wipe off, i will start doing water change every other day after today and may have to do after work so be after lights off in future.

Hopefully start seeing some growth soon will the plants still he adjusting after a week ?

Lastly when would you start upping the light ? 5 percent a week or so ? Currently at 40 percent

Thanks dean

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

 

[Jayefc1]

I find my skimmer bobs up and down when the pre filter is dirty and in the first few weeks had to rinse sponges almost daily

 

[Deano3]

I find my skimmer bobs up and down when the pressure filter is dirty and in the first few weeks had to rinse sponges almost daily

I havnt had main filter aprt yet just changed pre filter sponges today though

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

 

[Geoffrey Rea]

Thanks Geoffrey and paulo how long you recommend waiting to add amanos as have 4 in 45p //emoji.tapatalk-cdn.com/emoji16.png

Second month onwards here. They tend to jump if you introduce them too early and there’s the possibility there isn’t much for them to eat in a new setup.

 

[Deano3]

Yeah actually i remember having jumpers last time but been fine for last 10 months or so, i will wait till after a month , i do want to add nerite snails to this set up how long you recommend waiting for that few weeks ?

Also how often and when would you reccomend upping the lights currently at 40 percent and been a week now without seeing much growth at all but i imagine plants still adjusting to submerged state?

Still struggling with co2 coming on 4 hours before lights come on but goes yellow before lights off, i will measure ph levels today for first time as maybe have to turn bps down and maybe put on earlier but see what happens today.

Thanks for help
Dean

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

 

[Deano3]

Ph levels
10.00-7.58
12.00-6.55
13.00-6.43
14.00-6.34

Drop checker was green at 12.00 but darker green and at 14.00 bice lime green.

First pic is at 12.00 (only put lights on for a second to take pic)

Second pic lights on at 14.00

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

 

[SRP3006]

I'd turn the bps up higher, you don't have any stock in there yet do you. Whack it up higher. My co2 comes on 4 hours before and was a yellowy colour before I added shrimp. I've turned it down a bit now to save gassing everything.

I had to add another drop checker to mine as a reference, one was reading slightly off, don't know whether i accidently added some water I'm not sure.

 

[Geoffrey Rea]

i do want to add nerite snails to this set up how long you recommend waiting for that few weeks ?

Consider how much food you have available for them Dean. If you’re running a couple of tanks with the same water parameters you can always move them between tanks. If you siphon out the sand monthly and replace, leave it bare for a day so they can clean up diatoms on the bottom glass. If you treat them kindly like this with multiple food sources they seem to stay hungry and slightly more active. A few nerites can do a tremendous job with cleanup.

To answer your question, when there’s consistent food available to them.

Also how often and when would you reccomend upping the lights currently at 40 percent and been a week now without seeing much growth at all but i imagine plants still adjusting to submerged state?

Then...

Still struggling with co2 coming on 4 hours before lights come on but goes yellow before lights off

Co2 management spot on before upping light, can’t stress this enough. Careful adjustment with each significant increase of lighting is the usual suggestion. However, as @SRP3006 has said and if there is no stock currently, aiming high on the Co2 is not a problem. You can up the lighting through the increments knowing you have adequate Co2 throughout. Once you’ve reached your desired lighting level, tune down your Co2 carefully to match your lighting. Your plants will transition from emersed to submersed more effectively. The benefit of not rushing livestock into your tank 😉

As for how often and when to increase the lighting increments, depends on what’s in the tank. As @LondonDragon mentioned earlier, you can just cut all the leaves off your crypts at start up. No low light plants to cater to, can go up the increments quicker. The crypts will come back once the stems are there for cover later, so win for all.

 

[Deano3]

Consider how much food you have available for them Dean. If you’re running a couple of tanks with the same water parameters you can always move them between tanks. If you siphon out the sand monthly and replace, leave it bare for a day so they can clean up diatoms on the bottom glass. If you treat them kindly like this with multiple food sources they seem to stay hungry and slightly more active. A few nerites can do a tremendous job with cleanup.

To answer your question, when there’s consistent food available to them.




Then...



Co2 management spot on before upping light, can’t stress this enough. Careful adjustment with each significant increase of lighting is the usual suggestion. However, as @SRP3006 has said and if there is no stock currently, aiming high on the Co2 is not a problem. You can up the lighting through the increments knowing you have adequate Co2 throughout. Once you’ve reached your desired lighting level, tune down your Co2 carefully to match your lighting. Your plants will transition from emersed to submersed more effectively. The benefit of not rushing livestock into your tank

As for how often and when to increase the lighting increments, depends on what’s in the tank. As @LondonDragon mentioned earlier, you can just cut all the leaves off your crypts at start up. No low light plants to cater to, can go up the increments quicker. The crypts will come back once the stems are there for cover later, so win for all.

Thanks for the detailed response appreciate it

Tomorro i will trim all crypt leaves and i will do large water change.

I will also up co2 slightly and leave lights as they are, how long does transition period usually last i am used to fast growing stems just not used to nothing happening so sorry for questions.

I will hopefully get some nerites in week or so not sure how many maybe 2-4 then amanos after month 1 say around 12 then hopefully other shrimp but not what ones yet i do like look of the black and white onces.


Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

 

[Geoffrey Rea]

how long does transition period usually last

At this point Dean should imagine like many the lockdown measures will have you at home more than usual. Use it to your advantage fella. If you can monitor and observe you can only learn more.

Try upping the light in 10% increments when you want to with at least three days between light intensity changes. Sounds fast and loose but with aquasoil available, EI at your disposal and the ability to go above your tanks Co2 needs its low risk. If there’s no stock in the tank, you can afford to play around and learn. If it seems too much, back off the lighting, but keep Co2 input consistently high as a safety net whilst there’s no stock in the tank.

Clean up crew have their place, but fast growth mitigates a lot of the need for them. Wouldn’t rush to put anything in unless you have a persistent problem that they can solve. Your persistent problem is their food source so it’s a balance.

 

[Deano3]

At this point Dean should imagine like many the lockdown measures will have you at home more than usual. Use it to your advantage fella. If you can monitor and observe you can only learn more.

Try upping the light in 10% increments when you want to with at least three days between light intensity changes. Sounds fast and loose but with aquasoil available, EI at your disposal and the ability to go above your tanks Co2 needs its low risk. If there’s no stock in the tank, you can afford to play around and learn. If it seems too much, back off the lighting, but keep Co2 input consistently high as a safety net whilst there’s no stock in the tank.

Clean up crew have their place, but fast growth mitigates a lot of the need for them. Wouldn’t rush to put anything in unless you have a persistent problem that they can solve. Your persistent problem is their food source so it’s a balance.

I may put lights to 50 percent to try get more growth, have to be honest tank not looking great the pinatafida was brown and very soft looking like mush so removed most of it also cut all the crypt leaves at soil level hopefully they grow back

53b and ludwigia palustrus seem to be doing well but the rotala not so much along with some bucephlandra i syphoned the leaves away hopefully grows back.

I am back at work saturday but maybe order some plants for next week maybe a few pots of rotla and some pinitifida.

I think i should remove all the pinitifida as just brown dont think was healthiest when i got it.

I have upped co2 again and did large water change today hopefully start to see some positive signs, also did full filter clean and was immaculate inside when doing water change i tried to syphon up as much detritus as possible melted plant leaves etc so hopefully its enough



Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

 

[Geoffrey Rea]

The last picture of the Pinnatifida, it’s leaves are oriented upside down. Not uncommon as if it were a 1-2-Grow pot you have used they’re growing in all directions. Let it do it’s thing, if I remember correctly your scape is just eight days old. It looks to be doing just fine in the photos quite honestly.

If you have an established tank Dean and you want to move things along, take a thimble of soil from the established tank and dump it on the new substrate. Same with filter media, take just a couple of what you use for bio media in an established filter and pop it in your new filter. Let nature do it’s thing.

Get the impression you’re weary of upping your Co2. It won’t do any harm whilst there’s no stock in the tank if that drop checker were yellow 24/7 right now, steadily graduating up the light intensity. Pretty sure a lot of members start their setups this way? @Siege ? @Jayefc1 ?

From your photos and description you seem to be tracking happily through a successful start up 😉

 

[Jayefc1]

Yeah I definitely start new tanks with no live stock with co2 blasting into it yellow and slowly dial.down as the weeks pass