Don't forget to mention, the majority of plants we grow do not grow submersed in nature. Rather marginal and only submersed in the rainy seasons. If a plant grows submersed in nature it is mainly in places where it is unchaded in rather clear waters.. Like i see where the Calitriche grows in the local streams near my place. Where we have in summer season a few weeks of 18 hours daylight.. In a brightness our tanks lights do not come close too.Believe an aquarium is the only place that plant's see 10 + hour's of midday lighting be it low or high light day in ,day out..
In nature, the sun provides the light and it moves across the sky throughout the day.
Many of the plant's due to shading by other plant's,tree canopy over head,or several day's/week's of overcast skies,may only see three or four hour's of bright,midday lighting in a single day before sun moves away rather than 10 + hour's.
I can run four 54 watt T5's over my low tech for no more than eight hour's and lighting hung ten inches above the surface of the water in 300 litre tank lest algae become problematic.
I can run four 32 watt T8's for ten hour's with no issues and the bulb's re cheaper/easier to find locally.
Well, I definitely have the type of BBA that grows in shade as well as in good light....Lowering the light surely doesn't work for me. As I said in my last tank the BBA appeared when the light was already quite low, below the compensation point for almost any plants, even the emersed peace lilies didn't grow and were slowly dying because the tank got no natural light at all....Most of the anubias which was majorly affected didn't even get direct tank light..It was in the shadow of driftwood at the bottom but this didn't stop the BBA from spreading on it...It is a collectivum of several species of Rodophytha.. How many of us do know which one is in our tank? Not far fetched to think not all require the same approach..
This is a very interesting and different approach. I will try what you have suggested with the hope to get rid of the last strand of BBA I have in my tanks. Thank you!In my experience in all 3 tanks it is a combination where light always is the main factor.. And if light is ample and plants are not realy healthy BBA will firstly attack the unhealthy plant parts. Unhealthy plants mainly caused by nutrient insufficiencies or just older leaves dying off..
If light is more than ample BBA will even attack hardscape.
For me this theory works in every case, got a little 25 litre tank i use as plantbin.. It is super low tech, no filter nor flow, very low light less than 9 watt led light, if i have to guess maybe 700 lumen maybe less. No ferts, no foods, very low on co2.. only cramped with plants and shrimps.. Gets a weekly 50% water change. There is a lot of melting going on in this tank but never ever grows BBA, the only algae growing in this tank is diatoms.. Even if i throw in a plant from one of my other tanks containing BBA it dies off.. So if light is low enough than the TT doesn't hold ground, than bba even doesn't grow on the unhealthy parts of a plant.
So just only saying plants not growing well is not the correct approach.. For example putting a Java fern in a very bright lit tank or any other slow grower.
It grows well and maybe even relatively fast for a java, but gets to much light and there for most likely also will start grow BBA. This algae attaches deeply into the plant cells, the longer it is on it the deeper it will eat itself into it..At one point it will start feeding off the host and make it unhealthy..
So if you think of it, it is a combination of several variables.. Light, health (ferts/co2) plant sp. with different grow characteristics put together. Next to that flow can be a additional variable with distributing ferts/co2 around..
Actualy it is very simple.. If light is ample you need ample co2 and ample ferts to make the plant do something with this light.. Next to that you need plant sp. that have grow characteristics meeting these variables. For example you can not make a Java fern grow as fast as a Rotala, if you try you are just wasting ferts, co2 and light. Maybe having a nice rotala and bba on the java fern.. When it comes to the flow variable, you might take into consideration and ask the question whats wrong here... Is it the flow or is it the wrong plant sp. in the wrong place? As light and shading in a scape is an equaly important variable here.
What makes this whole subject so illusive and dificult is because we are talking variables here. There isn't a constant number to give.. Plants grow in mass, more mass can take more of everything. Lights are expressed in watts and lumen, but still it's just an illusive number not saying very much it still is different for each tank even with the same numbers given.
Keep up the ferts and co2 and play with your ligh intensity is where you need to start.. But it takes time and patience.. Lower it with 10 or 20 % or more and prolong the period if necessary and wait several weeks maybe 2 months it's a variable and impossible to give a number.. But wait and see what happens.. You will see less BBA.. and probably more plantmass.
If you do it right you might come to a point where BBA is gone.. From there you might have enough plantmass gathered to go up again with the lights.. And again go easy on it and wait and see.. Go up and down like that till you find your sweetspot..
Interesting to read you have completely opposite experience.. Algae can be realy mysterious lifeform.. I have no idea what is going on in your tank, till now i've never met this type of bba.. For me personaly and the plants i grow the lower intensity and longer periode works like a charm with a good fert regime. As well in the high tech as low tech.. And also stopped using glut and rarely use peroxide only spray some in hard to reach corners during a water change. But as said it all hangs together with many different variables and it's certainly the type of plants you grow wil determine the light intensity you need to get the required healthy plantmass. I do not grow anything realy advanced so i have no need for a bomshell of light above the tank.. And can only say as said above in the 3 tanks i have the 1 tank with the lowest light is absolutely bba free, the other 2 have it.. And i switch plants around constantly and just can't get bba in that 1 tank even if i put it in there it goes away.And for me shorter period with higher intensity as opposed to long period with low intensity works better in terms of any type of algae. Either way, no approach has magically cleared bba outbreak so far. Shoot if you have a clear method with a rough time period and not just the general thinking we've read and tried numerous times..
Looks like another "how to get rid of BBA" thread is dead with no outcome
I'm not sure that is really a physiological difference, higher plants need to build a structural support system, and that is based on structural carbohydrates, like cellulose etc.Note well, algae contains a higher proportion of protein (Nitrogen) to plants, meaning that the C/N ratio is much lower for algae vs plants, due to algae's higher nitrogen content. Algae has more to benefit from free nitrogen compounds than plants.
I don't know about Ginseng, but Garlic is stuffed full of <"anti-microbial sulphur compounds">, but they are fairly short lived. Allicin is formed when the <"plant is damaged">, but has a short half-life.Perhaps, garlic and ginseng could help block quorum sensing in an aquarium.....For conspiracy theorists, are ADA adding garlic to their Suikei food for the benefit of the fish's appetite?
Glutaraldehyde is definitely anti-microbial.Glutaraldehyde (e.g. Easycarbo) is used by scientists to fix bacteria and by hospitals to kill bacteria. Addition of Glutaraldehyde, particularly in worst affected areas, could act to slow growth or kill populations of heterotrophic bacteria
Glutaraldehyde is used by scientists to fix bacteria and by hospitals to kill bacteria
Sure. According to Wikipedia:Can you expand upon this?