What deficiency is this ?

[aquagenetics]

I'm no expert on this but pretty sure your micro mix will include some kind of acidify to keep it stable. My tap water is 7.2ph out of the tap and I have no issues using this to mix ferts, small caveat, my tap water is soft.
I'd imagine if the iron is falling out of chelation in the mix you'd see precipitation/bits in the bottom of the bottle.


Looking at your last picture I'd suggest there's more than just an iron deficiency going on here, the plants and hardscape are covered in various types of algae, which to me is being caused by the light intensity demanding far more C02 than is being provided.

Is there any way you can dim these lights? If indeed these are running at full power 120w?

yea thats why i ordered 30 mg/l co2 fluid now to see if i inject to less co2, since the dropchecker is now lime-green, i used to have the lights dimmed more but i noticed the AR Mini was suffering etc. the foreground plants.
will also try to change the intake today.

i also changed the intake of the tank next to the outflow

 

[sparkyweasel]

so i think my ph is low enough for the FE to absorb right ?

If I remember correctly, one of those chelates loses all of its availability at pH6.5 and the other at pH7, so you could be getting very reduced availability (the closer to those figures, the more you lose). Plus what @MrClockOff says about pH.

 

[aquagenetics]

i looked at the website and for the Micro i got this : Sporenelementen (Tenso cocktail)
it appears its EDTA, hmm people on here said i could use normal tap water, but maybe they thought i had other chelates ?

 

[MrClockOff]

Stabiliteit van de chelaten tussen pH=3.5 en pH=7.5

Is this some kind of stabiliser? Or it says stable in PH range? Anyway if your aquarium water or tap water gets above 6.5-7 PH then Fe EDTA is not good.

Myself I always wonder why EDTA used at all in all premixed powders like APF? I may be wrong but most of UK has quite hard water and alkaline.. so why EDTA?


Anyway I would suggest to look for Fe DTPA and or EDDHA. I'm using both of those but just quarters of usual dose. EDDHA make water pink and higher concentrations

 

[John q]

Is this some kind of stabiliser? Or it says stable in PH range?

There's no mention of stabilisers, it's saying its stable range is 3.5 to 7.5.

 

[MrClockOff]

There's no mention of stabilisers, it's saying its stable range is 3.5 to 7.5.

View attachment 177977

So this is the answer why the OP has Fe deficiency

 

[John q]

Could well be, although personally I don't think he has a fe deficiency.

 

[aquagenetics]

Could well be, although personally I don't think he has a fe deficiency.

what do you think it could be ?

 

[John q]

Let's look at the logic... in various threads you've mentioned deficiencies. Folks surmise the problem... iron, magnesium, etc.etc.
You showcase a vid with poor flow yet you blast the tank with 120w of light... folks suggest you dim the light...

If you're dosing ei levels of iron, regardless of its chleate, I'd wager the plants will get there fill. Your mix contains dtpa chelation, this is stable up to 8ph, what wait, 60% of dpta will be lost at a ph of 8... 40% remaning of to much is... drum roll... enough, ta,da,dah... How much iron do you think the plants need?

Sorry for the blunt response, your problem is to much light and inadequate C02... there is a fantastic chleate available that fixes that... its called a dimmer.

Cheers.

 

[aquagenetics]

Let's look at the logic... in various threads you've mentioned deficiencies. Folks surmise the problem... iron, magnesium, etc.etc.
You showcase a vid with poor flow yet you blast the tank with 120w of light... folks suggest you dim the light...

If you're dosing ei levels of iron, regardless of its chleate, I'd wager the plants will get there fill. Your mix contains dtpa chelation, this is stable up to 8ph, what wait, 60% of dpta will be lost at a ph of 8... 60% of to much is... drum roll... enough, ta,da,dah... How much iron do you think the plants need?

Sorry for the blunt response, your problem is to much light and inadequate C02... there is a fantastic chleate available that fixes that... its called a dimmer.

Cheers.

Yea i did dim the lights, however i used to have the settings lower but then was suffering from diatoms and foreground plants not receiving enough light.
i dimmed the lights back again now, still puzzling out the exact settings.

 

[John q]

still puzzling out the exact settings.

You and me both mate, best way I've found is to rule things out,. Double dose your micro ferts and see if things improve, I'm not an expert, it may well solve your problems.

 

[Konsa]

Hi there
You seem to be running circles around nutrient deficiencies and how much CO2 exactly you are injecting only.I have been there too.
It doesn't really matter if your CO2 is exactly 20,25 or 30ppm.While 30ppm is optimal even if your injection is 20ppm will be good as long as its stable and not fluctuating during the photoperiod.
In planted tank flow is the king.Laminar flow all around the tank without any dead spots.
I will suggest to get some MgSO4(Epsom salt) and Fe EDDHA and add them to your mix just for your peace of mind. Then you know your nutrients are all covered and you can focus your attention on the other more important stuff like flow and distribution.It seems from your video that everything near substrate level is struggling and judging by the fuzz algae on all the plants seems the filler is not managing to polish the water and debris is accumulating on the leaf surfaces due to poor flow(I may be wrong about that but I that is what happened to me in the past)
Also do you have the option to dim the lights till you get the hang of things.Strong lights is not always a good thing if you don't have your bases covered.
120w of LED seems like hell of a lot of light and obviously you can't balance it out.
BTW the thick Green dust algae(GDS) on your back wall going all waydown to substrate level is screaming at you that you are getting plenty of light at substrate level so any issue with foreground plants is flow,distribution and CO2 related rather not enough light.In low light plants grow slow, get leggy... etc etc not just melting .
Regards Konstantin

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

your problem is to much light and inadequate C02...

It does look like bright lighting. That would be why <"I would add a floating plant">, not CO2 limited and used to intense PAR.

best way I've found is to rule things out,.

although personally I don't think he has a fe deficiency.

Deficiency symptoms are really difficult to diagnose in most cases, but it is only really <"lack of iron"> that causes chlorotic new leaves. This is because iron isn't mobile within the plant and can't be shuffled to new leaves.

No, it might not well be <"iron deficiency">, but until we have a picture that shows the actual colour of the new leaves? It is very difficult to say.

It is easy to exclude iron (Fe) deficiency from the equation, if the plants have small chlorotic new leaves (<"like below">) it is iron deficiency, if they don't? it isn't.

cheers Darrel

 

[aquagenetics]

Hi there
You seem to be running circles around nutrient deficiencies and how much CO2 exactly you are injecting only.I have been there too.
It doesn't really matter if your CO2 is exactly 20,25 or 30ppm.While 30ppm is optimal even if your injection is 20ppm will be good as long as its stable and not fluctuating during the photoperiod.
In planted tank flow is the king.Laminar flow all around the tank without any dead spots.
I will suggest to get some MgSO4(Epsom salt) and Fe EDDHA and add them to your mix just for your peace of mind. Then you know your nutrients are all covered and you can focus your attention on the other more important stuff like flow and distribution.It seems from your video that everything near substrate level is struggling and judging by the fuzz algae on all the plants seems the filler is not managing to polish the water and debris is accumulating on the leaf surfaces due to poor flow(I may be wrong about that but I that is what happened to me in the past)
Also do you have the option to dim the lights till you get the hang of things.Strong lights is not always a good thing if you don't have your bases covered.
120w of LED seems like hell of a lot of light and obviously you can't balance it out.
BTW the thick Green dust algae(GDS) on your back wall going all waydown to substrate level is screaming at you that you are getting plenty of light at substrate level so any issue with foreground plants is flow,distribution and CO2 related rather not enough light.In low light plants grow slow, get leggy... etc etc not just melting .
Regards Konstantin

Dimmed the lights to 60 now, i thought it was possible in my setup to have it more intensely, because i saw someone else on youtube from my country and he had almost same setup as me.
when i asked him what settings he used on the light he said everything on 100 and his tank looked amazing, first i started with more dimmed light but saw foreground plants struggling, new leaves are first RED and then quickly turned brownish. (AR mini)
right now an extra problem occured, and thats that my CO2 keeps running, so currently when i have time checking out what the problem is with that, now before i go bed i manually turn it off, and normally the solenoid valve did that.
its really weird even when i turn the gass of completely the bubble counter still bubbles, if i dont turn it off with the needle valve, so i have to check that out.

Thanks alot for all you guys comments, i really appreciate it! as for the flow i really would want to have a spraybar for the full length, but i dont know where to get that, and if my current filter (JBL cristalprofi 1500) could do that, since that would also decrease the area it needs to move the water, the distance to the glass is closer.

Here are the light settings now, if anyone has recommendations let me know

 

[Konsa]

Hi
If you want spray bar.JBL has outflow spray bar as a replacement part.It comes in 2 parts that attach to each other.

Get a set or 2(of needed) that match your size filter and add them together pull the end cap out, cut the last bit to match your lenght and glue the cap back on.
Job done.
Regards Konstantin

 

[aquagenetics]

Hi
If you want spray bar.JBL has outflow spray bar as a replacement part.It comes in 2 parts that attach to each other.
View attachment 177996
Get a set or 2(of needed) that match your size filter and add them together pull the end cap out, cut the last bit to match your lenght and glue the cap back on.
Job done.
Regards Konstantin

Hey i think i found that one

JBL OutSet spray

Accessory for external filters: water outlet complete set with spray bar for external filter CristalProfi e and other filters

www.jbl.de

i dont know if my filter is strong enough to do the whole back, but i could try this thanks, i also noticed when using the default spraybar the smaller one, co2 bubbles had trouble getting pushed out of the openings.

 

[Konsa]

Hi
You can only try.You don't need heavy/turbulent flow. As long as all plants in different areas are gently moving your flow will be sufficient.
Think your size is 16/22 but double check it just to be sure.
Regards Konstantin

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

new leaves are first RED and then quickly turned brownish. (AR mini)

But what about the green plants? In the case of the Alternanthera reineckii it has red pigments (anthocyanins) in the cell vacuole that will <"mask the degree of greeness">.

Can you get a photo of the Myriophyllum?* showing its true colour? Are the new leaves actually "leaf green"> or are they more yellow?
*edit OP has corrected this ID, plant is actually Proserpinaca palustris

......... i really appreciate it! as for the flow i really would want to have a spraybar for the full length, but i dont know where to get that,

If you could get some ,<"Amazon Frogbit (Limnobium laevigatum)"> that would be really useful. If the Frogbit isn't <"leaf green and in active growth?"> It isn't light, flow or CO2, it is a mineral nutrient deficiency.

......... After a bit of searching I found a floating plant that:

1. Shows a linear response to nutrients,
2. has a "leaf green" leaf,
3. will grow in hard and soft water,
4. persists in low nutrient situations,
5. and that plant is my both my "Duckweed" and "Rice",
6. <"Amazon Frogbit (Limnobium laevigatum)">.

This is what it looks like, if you <"feed it plenty">.

If your Frogbit looks like @Timon Vogelaar 's (<"above">)? It isn't a mineral nutrient deficiency, it is CO2 (availability/distribution) or light (too much/too little).

cheers Darrel

 

[aquagenetics]

Hi all,

But what about the green plants? In the case of the Alternanthera reineckii it has red pigments (anthocyanins) in the cell vacuole that will <"mask the degree of greeness">.

Can you get a photo of the Myriophyllum? showing its true colour? Are the new leaves actually "leaf green"> or are they more yellow?

View attachment 178008

If you could get some ,<"Amazon Frogbit (Limnobium laevigatum)"> that would be really useful. If the Frogbit isn't <"leaf green and in active growth?"> It isn't light, flow or CO2, it is a mineral nutrient deficiency.

If your Frogbit looks like @Timon Vogelaar 's (<"above">)? It isn't a mineral nutrient deficiency, it is CO2 (availability/distribution) or light (too much/too little).

cheers Darrel

Hey Darrel, its not a Myriophyllum i bought it as a Proserpinaca palustris also known as mermaid weed. but i understand the confusion. they look similar
i think the issue im having is flow, and some deficiency's we are gonna start dosing just as powder soon, to see if that would help.

here are some pics of the plants

this left stem one looks more red had better flow on right side this new growth on the pogostemon erectus looks fine ?

 

[Fred13]

The first thing I noticed is your light intensity.
It is difficult to judge from a photo because your lens may not be showing the real intensity. However, If you dose EI and you still facing nutrient deficiency, light intensity is an element you should consider.
It can be so high that drives plants to require even more nutrients. If I was you, I would keep my light intensity at a medium level and I would keep dosing EI. Having extra nutrients in water column will not cause any harm.

What I have learned during my short aquascaping journey is that the best you can do is to limit your light. The most common perception among newcomers or even more experienced hobbyists is that plants need tons of light to grow. This is not true. They just grow faster and you take the risk of having algae and instability problems.