Two faced tank

[LMuhlen]

This weekend I trimmed the rotalas again to bring them to shape. I kept the stumps and replanted the tops, hopefully with more density it will grow more well defined.

The buces that I had glued back the week before were again swimming around. Gluing under water is tricky... This time I delicately glued it to a small pebble, at the comfort of my desk, without hurrying. Then I brutally glued the pebble to the large stone in the tank, without saving on glue. I dare it to float away this time!

I did some shy trimming on some of the most damaged anubia leaves, just to get a feeling for it. Maybe trimming them will be a good thing, they are getting quite dense already. I also removed some of the more damaged Staurogyne repens leaves, both the eaten ones and the old ones which suffered the first wave of instability when I assembled the tank. The plateau is still looking bad, the carpeting plants are all weird, the Althernantera minis are permanently angry, but it is stable...

I noticed a weird trend among the pinnatifidas, I originally planted them mostly on the center log facing the wall side of the tank, but through growth and death they are all on the opposite side now. I don't dare imposing too much on them since I have always had bad luck with them, so I'll let them do as they want for now. I did move a single sprout back to the wall side to see how it goes.

My Alternanthera reineckiis have always had mood swings with me. When they look pretty, they grow too much and I have to trim them, then they get angry and twisted and sometimes die. I used to remove the top and keep the base untouched, following advice from the 2hraquarist site that says that they don't like having their roots messed with. This time I just replanted the top and it looks to be doing better than on previous attempts. Let's see how it goes.

I moved one of the wave makers down to a middle-height position. It doesn't affect the surface significantly anymore, but it should help spread the CO2 through the lower parts of the tank, all around the rock plateaus. The other wave maker is still near the surface boosting gas exchange. They alternate through the photoperiod, 25 minutes each and 10 minutes of peace, every hour. At night the cycles are longer.

Finally, another picture of the new fishes, the nannostomus. I got 8 of these, but I'm on the hunt for more. They are very delicate and curious. They like to hang at the surface as well as close to the plants, and their 45° tilt is charming.

 

[LMuhlen]

Just to keep it registered, this week I changed my macros to include urea. Not only for the urea itself, but as a way to reduce the dose of potassium, which I wanted to try and see if it changes anything. Since I use potassium nitrate and potassium phosphate, there was no way to reduce the potassium dosage without changing the other ones.

I did an urea solution which doses 0.5ppm urea with 1ml for every 100L. The idea is to dose the 0.5ml daily and see if anything changes. To keep the N levels similar, I significantly reduced the amount of potassium nitrate, roughly halved it. In the end I'm dosing slightly more N than before for rounding purposes. I don't have it here with me, but the potassium dose is now maybe 6ppm weekly.

I also got a set of measuring spoons, it wasn't trivial to find one with 1/8 tsp... Now my calcium and magnesium frontload should be more controlled. The 1/8tsp is still too large for my Fe EDDHA dose, aimed at not tainting the water, but I measure roughly half a 1/8tsp and it is more precise than what I was doing before.

Finally, I decided to remove magnesium from my Macros mix, it was pointless to dose the salt straight into the tank, and then some more with the macros mix, especially now that I'm front loading.

I'm also starting to dose Fe gluconate, 3 times a week. Looking at maybe mixing with the urea if this first tryout period goes without issues.


In other news, I tried again to ask the water company for any water parameters. In my previous attempts, all they informed were data such as turbidity and presence of coliforms... This time they said that all they measure from the list I sent are nitrates and hardness. I see it as an improvement, and apparently my water has between 1 and 2 ppm of NO3, and a hardness of approximately 40 ppm CaCO3. Considering that my KH measurements systematically indicate something close to 0.5dKH, I'm assuming that hardness means general hardness, GH, and that the unit is ppm of CaCO3 equivalent. I had hoped that maybe this unit would imply calcium only, but after thinking about it for a while, I think it is Ca + Mg, and doesn't add much to what I could measure with my test kit, which usually gives around 2.5dGH.


My previous attempt to clean the black coat on the old anubia leaves with H2O2 failed completely, but now I have this idea that if they are red algae, maybe I should try a glut bath? Any opinions? I didn't want to have to trim all the coated leaves, and it doesn't seem to be going away on its own.

 

[LMuhlen]

This last Saturday I did the water change as usual, and then I went on full auto-pilot mode with the nutrient dosing. Calcium, Magnesium, Macro mix, iron EDDHA... And then I noticed that instead of using the macro mix bottle, I dosed from the urea bottle... Maybe I should start color coding them...

So instead of adding 3 ml of urea, I added 60 ml, which translates to a 10ppm dose. Ouch... I really didn't want to do another water change as I had an appointment, so I decided to let it play out. I was going to remove some of the floating plants, but instead I left them there. I took an ammonia reading, which I rarely do, and it came out as zero. I did dose the standard macro mix after realizing what happened.

After my appointment, maybe 6 hours later, a new ammonia reading showed 0.2ppm. Fishes looked normal. The next day, a new reading and then I wasn't sure if it was 0.2ppm or 0.8ppm, as the colors are really similar, even though there is a 0.4ppm in between them which is very different... Fishes looked OK, so I kept it going. At the end of the day, a new reading and again I wasn't sure what it was, so I decided to keep the CO2 on all night to prevent the pH from rising, just in case.

This morning the reading came out similar, but for whatever reason it looked a bit more like 0.2 than 0.8ppm, even though they look the same haha. I just had this idea of mixing water from the tank and clean water for my next test, so that if it is 0.8ppm, it will read 0.4ppm, which is noticeably different.

All in all, it looks like everything is normal so far. No algae, no reaction from the fishes. Some fast plants may have grown with their leaves a bit larger? Hopefully nothing will happen and I can treat it as an involuntary safety test for urea in my tank.

In other news, a week ago I found one of the three garra flavatras dead with its head stuck between two stones. It had been a while since I found a dead fish and it's a shame that it died in an accident. But I was disappointed in it, I expected it to be an expert at sticking its head all around and surviving, since it does so all day long. Now I have a couple more garras in quarantine, and soon they will join the others in the main tank.

 

[LMuhlen]

Yesterday at night I did one more ammonia measurement and it came out as zero.

So that ends this little chapter of the involuntary safety test. In less than 48h the situation reverted back to normal with no noticeable damage.

Doing some rough math, considering that 1 urea molecule has 2 nitrogen atoms and a molecular weight of 60g/mol, and that an ammonia molecule has 1 nitrogen atom and a molecular weight of 17g/mol, it looks like my 10ppm of urea would turn into 5.7ppm of ammonia after a full transformation. If the max reading I got was 0.2ppm (or maybe 0.8ppm, but I now don't think that was the case), then either the speed of transformation from urea to ammonia is slow, or the oxidation/plant consumption of ammonia is fast. Or a bit of both. But if the ammonia consumption was so fast, it wouldn't stay so many hours at a steady 0.2ppm, it would just go to zero, so I'm inclined to believe that the urea transformation is slow and happened at a given rate throughout the 48h of the event. Assuming that the plants don't consume urea directly.

As you can see, a lot of uncertainties, but I gotta try to justify this accident by learning something from it.

Changing the subject, yesterday I discovered a new LFS close-ish to my work, especialized in South American freshwater fishes. Considering I'm in Brazil, that wouldn't sound like a big deal, but it is surprising how imported species are often easier to find than local ones. So today I'm going back there to buy 3 more L075 sabaji plecos. I have one in my tank, the only pleco that I kept when I rebuilt the tank, and I'm looking forward to adding some friends for it to interact with. I also found some green darts, which I really like, but are kind of hard to find. I did manage to buy a few a while back, but they didn't survive the first few days. At the time, the LFS ordered them for me specifically and they went from distributor to LFS tank to my tank in a matter of hours, which may have been too much. This time, they fishes are alive in the LFS tank for a couple of weeks, so hopefully they'll survive the transition. I also now have a working quarantine with less CO2, for an easier transition.

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

Doing some rough math, considering that 1 urea molecule has 2 nitrogen atoms and a molecular weight of 60g/mol, and that an ammonia molecule has 1 nitrogen atom and a molecular weight of 17g/mol, it looks like my 10ppm of urea would turn into 5.7ppm of ammonia after a full transformation. If the max reading I got was 0.2ppm (or maybe 0.8ppm, but I now don't think that was the case), then either the speed of transformation from urea to ammonia is slow, or the oxidation/plant consumption of ammonia is fast. Or a bit of both. But if the ammonia consumption was so fast, it wouldn't stay so many hours at a steady 0.2ppm, it would just go to zero, so I'm inclined to believe that the urea transformation is slow and happened at a given rate throughout the 48h of the event. Assuming that the plants don't consume urea directly.

It is just a mix of <"known knowns" and "unknown unknowns">. As long as I had plenty of oxygen and plenty of plants I wouldn't be too worried about the effects of urea, but at what level that becomes <"a problem is just an intangible">.

The conversion, via the <"urease enzyme">, possessed by plants and some microbes, is: (NH2)2CO + H2O urease→ CO2 + 2NH3. So two ammonia molecules for every urea molecule catalyzed.

I'm guessing that a healthy established planted tank would be able to process urea pretty efficiently, just because it is going to have a diverse range of organisms with the urease enzyme and <"plenty of plants"> to mop up the resulting NH4+. Whether the Total Ammoniacal Nitrogen (TAN) is as NH3 or NH4+ is going to <"be pH dependent etc">.

I don't tend to differentiate between NH4+ and NH3, just because if the pH rises the <"NH4+ can become NH3">, with potentially fatal results.

cheers Darrel

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

and then I noticed that instead of using the macro mix bottle, I dosed from the urea bottle... Maybe I should start color coding them... So instead of adding 3 ml of urea, I added 60 ml, which translates to a 10ppm dose.

There are some figures for the toxicity of TAN and "Unionized Ammonia" to various fish , at various life stages, in <"Ammonia induced toxico-physiological responses in fish and management interventions">*.

It doesn't help with the "how long is a piece of string?" question of how quickly urea is catalysed to TAN however. This paper does look at urea <"Degradation of urea, ammonia and nitrite in moving bed biofilters operated at different feed loadings">**, but it doesn't include plants.

*Parvathy, A.J., Das, B.C., Jifiriya, M.J., Varghese, T., Pillai, D. and Rejish Kumar, V.J., (2022_. Ammonia induced toxico‐physiological responses in fish and management interventions. Reviews in Aquaculture.
**Ahnen, Mathis & Pedersen, Lars-Flemming & Pedersen, Per & Dalsgaard, Johanne. (2015). Degradation of urea, ammonia and nitrite in moving bed biofilters operated at different feed loadings. Aquacultural Engineering. 69. 50-59. 10.1016/j.aquaeng.2015.10.004.

cheers Darrel

​

 

[LMuhlen]

Thank you for the replies, Darrel.

I opened the second paper and read the more palatable parts. It seems that they spiked their systems with roughly half the dose of urea that I used and their worse case scenario had it all converted in 6 hours, so a similar filter would maybe take less than 12 hours to process my dose. I'm not sure if the filters are comparable, though. I expect a trout farm to have some powerful biofilters. In any case, they seem to suggest that urea processing was faster than ammonia at low ammonia concentrations, which explains why I got a constant presence of ammonia throughout my "experiment". All things considered, knowing and not knowing all the knowns and unknowns in every possible combination, I'm now satisfied that the daily 0.5ppm dose of urea is safe, even if is not necessarily helpful to my tank.

And with that I can reduce the potassium dose below the threshold that potassium nitrate would allow, which is also something that I'm not sure if it helps me or not, but I want to try.

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

I'm now satisfied that the daily 0.5ppm dose of urea is safe, even if is not necessarily helpful to my tank.

I'm pretty sure both safe and helpful.

One thing I've noticed in my tanks is that <"dosing either urea or ammonia"> causes a pretty rapid greening.

If the biofilters of these tanks <"Stocking of an Aquarium"> can process the ammonia load <"from this stocking">, I'm pretty sure that the plant / microbe <"biological filtration in a planted tank"> is going to mop up our level of urea addition.

cheers Darrel

 

[Happi]

@LMuhlen you might find our discussion useful over here #20

 

[LMuhlen]

As a follow-up, I haven't had any more incidents, I've been more careful with my dosing and all is (mostly) well.

It has been almost a month since I started dosing Urea and also a few weeks since I started adding Fe Gluconate (in addition to Fe EDDHA and whatever kind of Fe that is in my micro mix, probably EDTA). It is important to notice that while I kept the weekly dose of nitrogen roughly the same with this transition, replacing some of the KNO3 with urea reduced significantly the weekly dose of potassium.

I haven't noticed anything bad regarding plant behavior since the changes. And I think I see some improvements. I'm not that good at reading the plants and I don't have a second tank to use as reference for comparison, but I see improvement with the zosterifolia, the blyxxa japonica and the staurogyne. They have larger, greener leaves than before. I think the GSA is receding as well. Also, one of my Althernanteras, which was absolutely miserable, is now looking like it might be healed. Other Althernanteras are still looking bad.


In other news, a fellow aquarist gave me some cuttings of stem plants and so I'm testing to see which will do well in my tank. I had to reduce my rotala bush to less than half of what it was, but since none of the plants are particularly difficult, I'm expecting most, if not all of them, to adapt. Around the same day as this happened I added 3 L075 plecos from quarantine to the tank, so many of the new stems are now floating... I see it as natural selection, the ones that held their ground deserve their spot. In any case, the floating stems are not dying or anything.

 

[LMuhlen]

Hello!

Haven't been able to follow the forum for a while, but I still wanted to keep this journal going.

Since my last post, not much happened. I consider the tank to be stable and the previous changes are incorporated. That said there were a few events.

At some point, roughly 2 months after I started dosing urea daily, my mixture started smelling like piss. My understanding is that it got converted to ammonia. I redid it, but more diluted this time, so that it ends before going bad. I also increased the dose a little bit, it felt safe and I wanted more nitrogen.

My powdered EDDHA Fe turned into stone, probably due to humidity. It's getting harder and harder to dig a bit of it for my weekly dose, so I may just give up on it.

Just because of my insecurity with micros, I'm experimenting with not dosing them at all, only Fe. It's been 2 weeks like that, I'm curious what kind of symptoms I'll find eventually...

For maybe 6 weeks now, the GSA receded significantly, especially on the hardscape. The wood piece entangled with the stones was pitch black since week 2 of lights on, and now it is wood colored once again. That said, most of the anubias still have GSA, although maybe less than before.

A colleague got me some different stems, but they mostly died right away... One that is supposed to be rotala hra survived and it's slowly developing. However, it looks just like the rotala that I have, so I'm a bit confused. I'm sure the one I have wasn't bought as Hra, although I don't remember what it was.

One small stem of wallichii sprouted after all the other ones died, so I'm carefully nursing it on one of the glass cups attached to the back.

Crypto balansae and the valisneria allegedly nana got on my nerves for growing too much, getting entangled with the floating plants and blocking the light on the stems below, so I performed a more radical haircut. I'm just keeping a single valisneria, and trimming it aggressively, and the balansae got chopped bad. They are all growing back, though.

I took a 4 days trip a month ago and when I returned, the beautiful Staurogyne carpet was completely eaten. It looked like cactus, with only some needles where there once were great leaves. My prime suspects are the SAE, but I have no proof. When I got back home, I trimmed the Staurogyne to give it a chance to regrow, but after a month it still looks terrible, so I might have to really pull most of them out and let the start from scratch again.

On the other hand, the pinnatiffidas started this layout on the back side, near the stems, and by growing and dying they moved all the way to the plateau, where they are taking over the space left by the Staurogyne. I don't like messing with the pinnatiffidas, because they tend to die when I impose my will upon them, so they are just doing their thing. I do trim the stems that start growing tall, I want them short.

I guess those are the plant news... The coridora keep spawning some babies every now and then, they are hard to see but I'm really curious to know how many the are now. The first ones are almost young adults now.

A while ago I bought 4 green darts. Unfortunately, 2 of them didn't survive quarantine. After adding the survivors to the main tank, they disappeared to the point I forgot they were there, up until one of them started showing up every now and then. I never saw 2 at the same time so I don't know if they both survived, but I'm hopeful, since they hide so well.

 

[LMuhlen]

A quick update, this weekend I remixed my macros solution and also made a new urea batch, since the old one started smelling again after 5 weeks.

Ever since I started this urea venture, one of the objectives was to reduce potassium, so I took the opportunity to take one more step in this direction. Based on current lean dosing discussions and also @_Maq_ 's theories on K/Mg/Ca ratios, I thought I'd bring it to slightly less of what I dose of Mg. I understand that with all the CO2 I pump into this tank, maybe his theories don't apply, but I like to shake things a bit every now and then, especially since the plants have never been particularly happy in this tank.

When calculating the new doses, I noticed two things. One is that I was pretty close to this K threshold already, ever since I basically halved it with the previous nitrogen switch from KNO3 to Urea. The second was that for some reason, my Mg and Ca doses were completely off. I'm not sure what I was thinking, but probably I applied the 1:3~4 ratio to the dGH scale instead of the ppm, which pushed the Ca concentration way higher than Mg. Now, I do know that these ratios are not really unanimously accepted as being important, but I felt silly since I thought I had it right. The new recipe doubled the dose of Mg and significantly reduced Ca. I do have some uncertainty because my tap water comes with 3dGH and I don't really know if that is all Ca, but I'm assuming it is.

I also had to fire up the brain cells a bit because I had my Ca and Mg calculations all working around accumulated values, aiming at reaching a certain GH for the water, and at some point I realized that this couldn't be compared to the simple weekly ppm values I had for the other ions which didn't consider accumulation.

Finally, I'm now dosing weekly:
K - 3ppm
PO4 - 4ppm
N - 3.2ppm (NO3 - 2.15ppm, Urea - 5.82ppm)
Mg - 3.36ppm
Ca - 11.84ppm (considering what supposedly comes with the tap water)

The actual values may be a bit higher because I may be over estimating the amount of water in the tank with all the hardscape. But if that's the case, the ratios still apply.

Everything is front loaded except the urea, which I'm dosing daily. Urea increased from 3.5ppm weekly to 5.0ppm in my previous batch, and now to 5.82ppm. I further diluted this batch so that it ends before spoiling again.

Still on strike with the micros, only dosing iron.

Other than that, I'm displeased with my SAEs. I have 3 of them, and I think there are 2 different species in there. I'm convinced (although without any way to prove it) that they are the ones eating my Staurogynes and my mosses. Basically all the mosses I tried adding to this tank have disappeared. At first I assumed they died, but now I'm thinking they were eaten. The SAEs are also too large and fat and don't harmonize with the other fishes. Having said all that, I don't know if I can fish them out and, even if I could, I wouldn't know what to do with them. It's also easy not to like them when I have no algae in the tank except GSA, but what if they are the ones keeping the other algae from spawning?

The corys are still reproducing, every now and then I find some new babies in there. The first ones are already young adults. Today I found 5 eggs and moved them to the quarantine, protected by 2 layers of nets. It's the third time I try to help by handling the eggs, but the previous 2 attempts were complete failures. The eggs simply disappeared... I'm assuming it was snails.

Also in the quarantine, I have more hatchet fishes and more pencil fishes to thicken the existing shoals.

 

[LightingBamboozled]

I have Crossochelius Reticulatus (Silver flying fox, sold as fishnet algae eaters). They will eat the growing tips of most mosses IME. I've found they don't kill Christmas Moss but they do severely stunt its growth.

 

[Hufsa]

Finally, I'm now dosing weekly:
PO4 - 4ppm

Thats a lot of phosphate Typo?

Other than that, I'm displeased with my SAEs. I have 3 of them, and I think there are 2 different species in there. I'm convinced (although without any way to prove it) that they are the ones eating my Staurogynes and my mosses. Basically all the mosses I tried adding to this tank have disappeared. At first I assumed they died, but now I'm thinking they were eaten.

Oh yeah SAE can turn on plants if they are hungry. Are the leaves of the moss but not the "stems" suspiciously disappearing? Young tasty shoots on staurogyne missing?

Having said all that, I don't know if I can fish them out and, even if I could, I wouldn't know what to do with them.

A DIY fish trap can be made with a large soda bottle, but im not sure the SAE would fit in the opening. Maybe a big juice or milk bottle instead?

It's also easy not to like them when I have no algae in the tank except GSA, but what if they are the ones keeping the other algae from spawning?

That bit is hard to know. But if they're eating your plants you kinda either need to feed them more or rehome them.

 

[John q]

Thats a lot of phosphate Typo?

I'm guessing if he's using potassium nitrate & potassium phosphate then the 4ppm Po4 will be correct in order to get the 3ppm K.
2.15ppm of N03 from KNO3 = 1.36 K.
4ppm Po4 from KH2PO4 = 1.65 K.

If he's not using the above chemicals ignore this post. 😀

 

[LMuhlen]

I have Crossochelius Reticulatus (Silver flying fox, sold as fishnet algae eaters). They will eat the growing tips of most mosses IME. I've found they don't kill Christmas Moss but they do severely stunt its growth.

The reticulatus seems easy to identify and it isn't one of the ones I have. But when looking for information on SAE species a while back, I found some people saying that one of them eats moss, while the others don't. Since identifying them is really hard, I just assume one of mine may be a moss eater.

I'm guessing if he's using potassium nitrate & potassium phosphate then the 4ppm Po4 will be correct in order to get the 3ppm K.
2.15ppm of N03 from KNO3 = 1.36 K.
4ppm Po4 from KH2PO4 = 1.65 K.

If he's not using the above chemicals ignore this post. 😀

Exactly this.

Thats a lot of phosphate Typo?


Oh yeah SAE can turn on plants if they are hungry. Are the leaves of the moss but not the "stems" suspiciously disappearing? Young tasty shoots on staurogyne missing?

A DIY fish trap can be made with a large soda bottle, but im not sure the SAE would fit in the opening. Maybe a big juice or milk bottle instead?


That bit is hard to know. But if they're eating your plants you kinda either need to feed them more or rehome them.

Not a typo for phosphate. Ever since this tank was reassembled in August, I've had a lot of issues with GSA on plants and hardscape, so at some point I decided to boost phosphates. It's hard to distinguish what comes from tank maturity and what comes from fert changes, but there was a significant reduction of algae since the change, especially on hardscape and on the glass. The anubias still suffer a bit. There was also an event I described a few months ago when I redid my macros mix and got a sudden burst of GSA. I then theorized that I have mistaken my powders and added something else instead of potassium phosphate. When I made a new mix, more carefully this time, things went back to normal.

The staurogynes were massacred, not only the new leaves. It was during a 4 days vacation, so there was an opening for the fishes to feel hunger. The plants are starting to recover now. The mosses are more of a mystery, some of them just disappeared, while others wouldn't grow at all and then "dry out". But now that you asked, I did find "stems" without leaves.

The SAE are by far the fishes that eat the most in my tank, they attack everything from the flakes on the surface, to the bottom pellets for the corys and plecos and the occasional cucumber I add. But I don't know who would want adult SAEs for rehoming them, people usually only want the young ones. And the two fat ones aren't all that pretty either, the black stripe is kinda faded most of the time. The third SAE is thinner and keeps its stripe well defined. I really wanted to see who eats the plants, that would help me with my decision making.

 

[LMuhlen]

Not much to report, but I had some pictures to upload.




It may not sound like much, but I think it is the first time my Microsorums are looking good like this. No algae, no necrotic patches... Either they finally adapted, or they liked something I changed. On that note, I recently bought a new stem plant, I think it is Eusteralis verticillata, and it didn't die. So that's new too. Up until now, most new stem plants just vanished.



This unappealing fellow here is a Curimatopsis crypticus. A LFS distributed a batch of them. These little toothless guys are detritivorous and harmlessly nibble all around, sometimes standing vertically with their heads down, biting the substrate. Interesting to watch and potentially helpful for the tank environment. It looks like they are always gasping for air, but I think it is just the way they are. At the store, in tanks without added CO2, they did the same.



One thing I noticed was that this crypto formed these darker veins. Until now it was just plain brown. Is it a sign of something? It looks interesting.



And these little devils are in quarantine! A rare find around here, Hyphessobrycon notidanos.

 

[hypnogogia]

One thing I noticed was that this crypto formed these darker veins. Until now it was just plain brown. Is it a sign of something? It looks interesting.

Are leaves getting lighter in colour? I can‘t tell properly from photo. It could be magnesium deficiency.

 

[LMuhlen]

Are leaves getting lighter in colour? I can‘t tell properly from photo. It could be magnesium deficiency.

Hmmm watching the leaves live doesn't make it much easier to tell, without a reference. But it is possible that the leaf parts are slightly lighter while the veins are much darker.

Recent changes were, from oldest to most recent:
Reducing Fe EDDHA and start Fe gluconate
Replacing some of the KNO3 with urea, reducing K, keeping N the same
Stopped dosing micro mix
Further reduced KNO3, increased urea
Reduced Ca a bit, almost doubled Mg

 

[Hufsa]

Reducing Fe EDDHA and start Fe gluconate

Stopped dosing micro mix

My money is on either of these.