MirandaB
Member
I think you've been wise to go for the histopathy test because I don't think Trichodina is the root cause of what's going on but at least it's a start
Yes reading up on it now it sounds like this is something that might just be taking advantage of already sick fish, I can't see anything online that it would/could cause all the problems we've seen so far.I think you've been wise to go for the histopathy test because I don't think Trichodina is the root cause of what's going on but at least it's a start
Whoops! I should've worded it more positively from the start. It is nice to see something lovely in the tank again, probably all the babies will be eaten as usual but it shows life goes on.When I read your first half dozen words my heart sank but carrying on there was good news at last!
Unpleasant as it is, euthanasing the remaining pencil fish is probably for the best. As they seem to be the worst affected, knowing you have removed them all at least means none can die under the leaf litter & potentially cause more issues.
Fingers crossed here too that all the medications & UV steriliser enable you to get on top of things.🤞🏻Having some more clear answers from the vet will help you make further decisions.
As an aside, I've just replaced the air driven filter with a tiny power filter in my 25l nano & the pygmy corys are all out playing in the flow, you can almost hear them giggling with the fun of it all!
A few other people I've been chatting to about the problems on Instagram have suggested medicating the food as a more effective way to treat fish, as well as mixing garlic in with the food! I have read that Tricodina hate garlic and that's a good way to treat them. My NDX should be coming today, I will mix it in with some live food in water and leave them for a few hours, or maybe mixed with some defrosted frozen an hour or two and try that. Thankyou for the suggestion, it's definitely something I'll try.Hi
Following this thread and hope you will get to the bottom of it and resolve it soon.
Just my 2 cents.
During my latest ich attack on my newly purchased SAP Puffers (They seem to get it almost 100% when you buy (move) them)that took absolutely ages to sort out and the real game changer was using Levamisole medicated food in addition to the Esha Treatment. Not 100% sure if correct but Levamisole apart from being a worm treatment is said to have immune system boosting properties that will help fish to fight off any parasitic infestation.I was treating the puffers for over a month with high temps and saw little effect on the parasites(they were absolutely covered in white spots)before starting with medicated food. Coincidence or not shortly after they started clearing.
Regards Konstantin
Excellent! Have ordered some of the food, that makes life much easier. Thanks very much for that recHi @shangman
For good quality food with garlic content I can recommend "New Life Spectrum Thera +A"
It comes in granules from 0.5mm upwards.Im not sure if they do flakes tbh but may do.
Those foods are really well balanced and very good quality.
As for medicating food.Medicating frozen foods works but freeze dried and granulated foods will hold medication better so if your fish are not refusing dry foods I will have a go with that first. Maybe if can find somewhere in UK get some " Seachem Focus "to try to help bind the meds to the food more strongly.Its an useful product whem medicating food and dealing with internal issues. Other options are using gelatine and Agar agar power as binder.
Regards Konstantin
So sorry to hear that Rosie,I feared it would be the caseWell gang, sad news. I got the results back from the vet and it is confirmed mycobacteria/fishTB, the pencils were riddled with granulomas.
I will get a full report later today or tomorrow which I will post so we can see the bigger picture. One of those times where it turns out I was right all along, but I really wish I wasn't.
But news no less. You know what needs to be done. Don't envey that decision mate.Well gang, sad news.
Aw it's ok, it's nice to imagine beautiful new tanks right now!Sorry to hear you’re going through the ringer at the minute, it makes it more incredible the help you’ve given me with my tank.
You mentioned UV, don’t solely rely on this as a method as it’s such a grey topic, by that I mean there’s so many variables, starting with understanding how UV works.
UV won’t kill anything, it sterilises, meaning the cells can’t spread.
Then flow rates play a huge part. Slow turn over is best for fighting disease as it gives the cells more time in contact with the light.
I’d also recommend changing your bulb if you can, this will give the unit maximum effectiveness.
Apologies if I’m teaching you to suck eggs, I know a large portion of people think UV can just be bought and switched on and that’s all there is too it.