• You are viewing the forum as a Guest, please login (you can use your Facebook, Twitter, Google or Microsoft account to login) or register using this link: Log in or Sign Up

'The Full Monty' Has Left The Building last photos

do you worm your fish every month?

Hi Legytt,

No I don't worm them at all now. I did use the Kusuri Discus worming powder I got from Plymouth Discus, I used it twice and each time resulted in a fish death, twice I lost a discus the next morning, which I have put photos up somewhere in this thread a while ago. So basically I have been scared to use the stuff since then. Any reason you ask?

Steve
 
If it was low oxygen levels it might be a size issue, larger fish are more prone to hypoxia than small ones (body volume increases more quickly then gill area). Also Otocinclus can also extract oxygen from gulped air (like a Corydoras).

Hi Darrell,

I suspect you are right about the size issue, the gills on the remaining discus were pumping like mad at first but have slowed right down now. I am not sure if this is a good sign or not.

I also forgot about the breathing mechanism of the Ottos.

Thanks,

Steve
 
yep
Hi Legytt,

No I don't worm them at all now. I did use the Kusuri Discus worming powder I got from Plymouth Discus, I used it twice and each time resulted in a fish death, twice I lost a discus the next morning, which I have put photos up somewhere in this thread a while ago. So basically I have been scared to use the stuff since then. Any reason you ask?

Steve
i use the same worming brand. i had no problems using it and i would always use it every month untill i sold the tank to a friend next door. he got abit lazy and one day all the discus kinda went dark and black and blue. so i told him to do water change for a few week with little results. i then ask him have you worm the fish he said no. he then did the treatment and every day the fish poo is white but im not saying your fish had worms im just wondering that why i ask. to be honest if they were fine and looking good then i think is that no Planaria stuff that cause it.
 
Hi Legytt,

My suspicion about the worming powder was that maybe the two discus that died were possibly full of worms and the Kusuri powder killed the worms inside them which in turn poisened the fish, but that is only speculation.

Do you think I should use the worming powder on any of the surviving discus if they recover?

Steve
 
Hi Legytt,

My suspicion about the worming powder was that maybe the two discus that died were possibly full of worms and the Kusuri powder killed the worms inside them which in turn poisened the fish, but that is only speculation.

Do you think I should use the worming powder on any of the surviving discus if they recover?

Steve
hi

i would give it a try so if there was anything inside them it would clear it out but before you do it just do water every day and see how they are. after a week if no different then add the treatment. i hope everything gets back to normal for you.

cheers
ryan
 
Hi all,
the gills on the remaining discus were pumping like mad at first but have slowed right down now. I am not sure if this is a good sign or not.
Fingers crossed, I think that is probably a good sign.

It also suggests that oxygen was the issue. If oxygen reduction is caused by high ammonia levels, usually the ammonia will have damaged the gills to the extent that breathing will remain rapid.

If problems are caused by low oxygen and/or high CO2, breathing should return to normal fairly rapidly when dissolved gases levels return to normal.

cheers Darrel
 
f problems are caused by low oxygen and/or high CO2, breathing should return to normal fairly rapidly when dissolved gases levels return to normal.

Hi Darrel,

Thanks for the encouragement. As things are now it is looking like two of them might survive, but the other two are in a very bad way, breathing slowly but can not keep themselves upright, they are lying on their side and sometimes drifting upside down.

I doubt they are going to make it till the morning, if by late tonight I might have to do the humane thing rather than let them suffer and to come down to find them both dead.

God I am gutted.

Steve
 
So sorry to read your update 🙁

but please give these fish a chance to sort themselves

- I've seen discuss ship in with massive fin damage (ammonia in bags) & dark & lying down in the tank, after daily 90% water changes, no food, lots of aeration (sponge filters so little current), no lights, a surprising # recover (I think 3 losses out of 40 young discus on that group) ... a few of these fish remained dark for 3-4 weeks, while most looked much better after a week ... not much change over the first 3-4 days except that they didn't look worse: it was couple of months before the shop released any for sale.

Sometimes these oil based products have (severe) adverse reactions - anoxia may be a factor but it would take quite a bit to limit oxygen in the tank through surface film as your filters will be constantly aerating the water BUT oil coating the gill tissue & surrounding structures would be very effective at limiting oxygen uptake ...
there is also the possibility of organic toxins present in the oil based product post-production ... unfortunately most manufacturers are very quiet about processing & there are few regulations in place for fish & livestock meds (relative to human drug quality controls).

As for worming your discus, I'd not add any meds to their tank for several weeks ... most compounds effective against parasites/worms etc are less toxic to the host but not "non-toxic" so most will cause stress to varying degrees (healthy fish will show few adverse signs ... but most healthy fish also have immune systems which will act to keep parasites in check 😉 ... unless you're feeding loads of live worms etc, you should not need to deworm fish frequently)
 
That would be my suspicion. I've never used "No Planaria" (although I have used "Panacur" without any problems in the past), but a film of oil may have reduced gas exchange.
Yeah, never heard of the product killing any fish or shimp if dosed accordingly. Bizarre indeed.
 
I'm so sorry to read these updates. Horrific to lose fish this way. I have used no planaria on my shrimp tanks with no ill effects including my shadow bees but it looks like it hasn't worked out for you. I use the wormer 'fluke solve' by the same company that make the other wormer you have tried. I have used on all my fish including older fry without ill effect. I will keep everything crossed that your fish make it. Heart breaking.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
 
So sorry to read your update 🙁

but please give these fish a chance to sort themselves

- I've seen discuss ship in with massive fin damage (ammonia in bags) & dark & lying down in the tank, after daily 90% water changes, no food, lots of aeration (sponge filters so little current), no lights, a surprising # recover (I think 3 losses out of 40 young discus on that group) ... a few of these fish remained dark for 3-4 weeks, while most looked much better after a week ... not much change over the first 3-4 days except that they didn't look worse: it was couple of months before the shop released any for sale.

Sometimes these oil based products have (severe) adverse reactions - anoxia may be a factor but it would take quite a bit to limit oxygen in the tank through surface film as your filters will be constantly aerating the water BUT oil coating the gill tissue & surrounding structures would be very effective at limiting oxygen uptake ...
there is also the possibility of organic toxins present in the oil based product post-production ... unfortunately most manufacturers are very quiet about processing & there are few regulations in place for fish & livestock meds (relative to human drug quality controls).

As for worming your discus, I'd not add any meds to their tank for several weeks ... most compounds effective against parasites/worms etc are less toxic to the host but not "non-toxic" so most will cause stress to varying degrees (healthy fish will show few adverse signs ... but most healthy fish also have immune systems which will act to keep parasites in check 😉 ... unless you're feeding loads of live worms etc, you should not need to deworm fish frequently)

Hi Alto, Everyone,

Many thanks for the best wishes and the support, advice and suggestions.

Last night saw the demise of the second Blue Diamond female discus. Around 10:30 last night I had spent an hour and forty minutes holding the discus upright in front of a gentle water stream of oxygenated water hoping she might recover. But sadly every time I let go she just drifted to the bottom and went upside down. The last time I attempted it the breathing had stopped and there was no movement whatsoever. It was time to call it a day.

After removing the fish from the tank I went and got a piece of kit that I have not used in donkeys years. In a box in the garage was a Sochting Oxidator series A for large tanks. Fortunately I still had some of the 6% peroxide solution and the ceramic catalysts to make it work. After cleaning etc I placed it in the aquarium and sat back to watch the oxygen flow into the water.

The positive news is that this morning all three remaining Red Curipeau Discus have got through the night and are huddled together in the corner of the tank. The one that was the worst off for wear last night was the big female Red Curipeau, I honestly did not think she would make it, but I wanted to give her every chance to recover. She is still looking a bit pale but the breathing is fine and she is the right way up. This is such a relief because if she had died that would mean I would have been left with just the two remaining male Red Curipeau.

So the situation at the moment is, water temperature slightly down to aid oxygenation, Sochting Oxidator running in tank, Air pump pushing air through diffuser, Co2 is turned off, PH has risen from 6.15 to 6.95, no feeding at the moment and the lights are off to give them a bit of peace.

Not sure if I should do another water change today, there was no problem with ammonia levels yesterday so that wasn't the cause of this. Just somehow maybe the No Planaria product had a dramatic effect on the O2 in the water.

We learn every day!!

Assuming all is well and the three remaining discus survive I will remove the single male Red Curipeau and just keep the two that paired off originally.

Updates to follow,

Thanks for caring.

Steve.
 
Again sorry for your blue girl loss

I'd do large daily water changes for at least a few days so as to facilitate removal of the No Planaria product - do you have charcoal/activated carbon in the filter? (use marine grade, quality really makes a difference on this stuff) - then alternate day water changes .. tank is likely deep enough that you can do a 50% water change without too much stress ... if they perk up with every water change, then you know you're on the right track.
If they seem much the same with water changes, I'd still do the water changes; only stop the frequent water changes if they seem "worse" after a water change.
Keep monitoring water quality just in case of filter effects.

Don't feed until fish are beginning to look/move better, start with small amounts frozen brine shrimp (go back to feeding more frequent, tiny meals if possible) - gut activity may also be compromised so go carefully.
The oxygenator was an excellent idea.

I'd not move out the extra male for at least a couple months, discus really are group fish (even as adults).

As I recall you cleared most of your other fish from the tank in the summer, what stock remain?
 
I'd do large daily water changes for at least a few days so as to facilitate removal of the No Planaria product - do you have charcoal/activated carbon in the filter? (use marine grade, quality really makes a difference on this stuff) - then alternate day water changes .. tank is likely deep enough that you can do a 50% water change without too much stress ... if they perk up with every water change, then you know you're on the right track.
If they seem much the same with water changes, I'd still do the water changes; only stop the frequent water changes if they seem "worse" after a water change.
Keep monitoring water quality just in case of filter effects.

Don't feed until fish are beginning to look/move better, start with small amounts frozen brine shrimp (go back to feeding more frequent, tiny meals if possible) - gut activity may also be compromised so go carefully.
The oxygenator was an excellent idea.

I'd not move out the extra male for at least a couple months, discus really are group fish (even as adults).

As I recall you cleared most of your other fish from the tank in the summer, what stock remain?

Hi Alto,

I will start with the water changes tomorrow and see how they do. I don't use any form of activated charcoal, I used to but apparently it reaches a point where when it gets saturated it releases everything back into the water in one dump, and it was a bit of a pfaff taking it out and changing it every so often to avoid the supposed dump of toxic stuff back into the water.

I think the gut activity is definitely compromised so will heed the advice re the feeding. Glad you liked the Oxygenator idea. I bought that in Germany when I was stationed there, it cost me 89 deutsche marks, so that shows you how long ago it was, but I never get rid of anything useful like that, you never know when you might need it.

You are right, I will keep the three together until they have all well and truly recovered. If the original two Red Curieau pair off again and spawn there won't be as much interference now.

Remaining stock = 10 Ottocinclus, 6 Corys and one Flying Fox, thats it.

Thanks,

Steve
 
As for worming your discus, I'd not add any meds to their tank for several weeks ... most compounds effective against parasites/worms etc are less toxic to the host but not "non-toxic" so most will cause stress to varying degrees (healthy fish will show few adverse signs ... but most healthy fish also have immune systems which will act to keep parasites in check 😉 ... unless you're feeding loads of live worms etc, you should not need to deworm fish frequently)[/QUOTE]

Alto,

A few weeks back I was feeding them loads of live Californian Blackworms that I got from the Abyss Aquatic Warehouse which they devoured and showed no signs of distress as a result so I never thought they needed de-worming. After feeding with these worms they really coloured up and began the spawning activity.

Cheers,

Steve
 
activated charcoal, I used to but apparently it reaches a point where when it gets saturated it releases everything back into the water in one dump
I'd like to see the data & specifics on that one 😉

While it does begin to desorb particles, this is generally a continual process, compounds with higher binding affinity will always preferentially bind - it's all just "adsorption" so no permanent bonds are formed with the activated carbon & the assorted molecules.
While it's possible to "bind" a compound of interest to activated charcoal & then wash in such a fashion as to "release" the compound of interest, this is an unlikely scenario in a freshwater planted aquarium (never say never 😉)

At this stage, the activated charcoal will preferentially bind any oil-based compounds remaining from the No Planaria - you want to use a charcoal with larger "pores" as this will greatly facilitate binding of these (likely) larger molecules; you can safely leave it in place for a week or so, then remove.
In this type of scenario where carbon is used to bind medications/toxins in aquaria, it is recommended to change out the carbon as removal from the system is the goal.
 
Hi All,

I just spent some time on line doing research on any previous incidents of the No Planaria Product causing Fish Deaths. While researching I found this forum below very informative, quite light hearted and in some way very funny. It is an Austarlian forum mainly to do with shrimp keeping, but there are some interesting points raised, i.e. don't dose the No Planaria Product if you have got high Co2 levels or if you are using EI Dosing regimes, all of which I have been doing.

See the link below for the forum.

Cheers,

Steve

http://www.aquariumlife.com.au/archive/index.php/t-29190.html?s=651a85bf2a2e83f48e50953703e1da13
 
I'd like to see the data & specifics on that one
Could have sworn I have seen it written on the instructions when I use it last, something about removal at a certain point before saturation. Suppose it could have been a marketing thing to get you to buy more of it.

The only other reason I have not been using activated charcoal is because I thought it removes everything, not just the toxins, so the EI Ferts, the minerals etc so would be defeating the object of putting any ferts in the tank if the charcoal is just removing them?

Cheers,

Steve.
 
Back
Top