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Solufeed 2:1:4 and Solufeed Sodium Free TEC or Solufeed Coir TEC Combination

Hi all,
TNC Complete: £2.40
TNC replacement: £2.01
2:1:4/TEC S-F: 59p
Price <"really is the only difference">, there is no <"question of aesthetics"> <"with fertilisers"> (other than <"the container they come in">).
N, P, K accumulation which is why I don't dose EI levels of fertiliser... or looking again at Happi's recipe maybe I do ??
Looking at your Salvinia and Limnobium etc, they look <"lush"> and <"super-green">*, suggesting that you could reduce nutrient addition a bit.

223852-3b98ea3996da73f5d3bb958aa1ed2e65.jpg


This is the Leaf Colour Chart, from the linked thread <"The scientific background to the "Leaf Colour Chart"">
12-rice-leaf-color-chart-jpg.153678

* Not necessarily <"a bad thing">.

Cheers Darrel
 
Can someone clarify something for me?

Using the recipe below, is this effectively EI levels of nutrients? If so i might dull them down a bit as i only tent to water change once every two weeks.

500 ml solution, 20 ml per 50 gallon

Step #1
start with 450 ml Distilled water

Step #2
Add 0.25 gram potassium sorbate and mix till fully dissolve

Step #3 (Pick one from the list below, White Vinegar is Preferred) and mix till fully dissolve
Add 0.25 gram sodium benzoate
Add 0.5 gram Ascorbic acid
Add 5-10 ml White Vinegar

Step #4
Add 31.545 gram Solufeed 2:1:4 and mix till fully dissolve
Add 5.721 gram
Solufeed Sodium Free TEC and mix till fully dissolve

Step #5
after mixing all the chemicals, add distilled water to reach the 500 ml solution
 
Can someone clarify something for me?

Using the recipe below, is this effectively EI levels of nutrients? If so i might dull them down a bit as i only tent to water change once every two weeks.

500 ml solution, 20 ml per 50 gallon

Step #1
start with 450 ml Distilled water

Step #2
Add 0.25 gram potassium sorbate and mix till fully dissolve

Step #3 (Pick one from the list below, White Vinegar is Preferred) and mix till fully dissolve
Add 0.25 gram sodium benzoate
Add 0.5 gram Ascorbic acid
Add 5-10 ml White Vinegar

Step #4
Add 31.545 gram Solufeed 2:1:4 and mix till fully dissolve
Add 5.721 gram
Solufeed Sodium Free TEC and mix till fully dissolve

Step #5
after mixing all the chemicals, add distilled water to reach the 500 ml solution
1731071196282.png
I would say about mid EI dosing
1731072631975.png
This is closer but some nutrients are above/below EI full
Always easier when using single salts
 
Ah. I didn't realise solufeed had been added to the fert calculator. I'll go have a play with that!

We had it done about the same time as Happi started this thread - Great minds think alike. Small advantage of the IFC is you can also add/use the salts you can still get like epsom salt , KCl, K, PO4, urea prills etc to hit the targets you may struggle with with just two compound salts from solufeed
 
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Ah. I didn't realise solufeed had been added to the fert calculator. I'll go have a play with that!
go to core setting and swap it out for Ammonium Nitrate - we did it so any suitable AIO salt can be easily added, There is three to choose from ATM

1731143275034.png
 
Dumb question, but what to i then do after that?
Set you tank and dosing details, select your regime/clone/parameters in targetcalculator

select multi salts eg
1731435332782.png
Target calculator will work out amount needed based on your NO3 and Fe target of regime/clone/parameters
It will show also how close other nutrients are to your regime/clone/parameters - if Mg is low a little epsom salts is easy fix etc.

DIY calculator will could also be used and you enter mass of multi salts and it gives you the results
1731435620433.png

Target Calculator is best IMO
 
I'm about to mix a batch of this - what's the maximum shelf life?
500ml will last me about 2 months - can I mix 1000ml in one go by doubling the ingredients and use it for 4 months?
I'll store in a black container and keep it in a drawer, so no exposure to light. Thanks.
 
Hoping someone can help!
I have been using the Solufeed 2:1:4 and Solufeed sodium Tec recipe from the start of this thread.
I have a heavily stocked, heavily fed discus tank and my NO3 and PO4 are much higher than I would like.
Is there a way to make a mix that mimics TNC Light?
I.e. ALL of the other necessary things without the NO3 or PO4?
TIA
 
Hi all,
Welcome back,
Can we have a FTS? It will just make making suggestions easier.
Hoping someone can help!
I have been using the Solufeed 2:1:4 and Solufeed sodium Tec recipe from the start of this thread.
I have a heavily stocked, heavily fed discus tank and my NO3 and PO4 are much higher than I would like.
How much plant mass do you have? You may be able to carry on using the mix, but just use less of it. I use @Happi's mix, but <"lean dosed">, via the <"Duckweed Index">.

<"Phosphate (PO4---) tests"> should be reasonably good, but <"nitrate (NO3-) testing"> is more problematic, <"so I use leaf colour and growth rate"> as a proxy for nitrogen (N) levels. If your plants look this green ?

223852-3b98ea3996da73f5d3bb958aa1ed2e65.jpg

You can definitely scale back your dosing.

If you don't <"have a floating plant">? I'd add one, Water Lettuce (Pistia stratiotes) would be <"biotope appropriate"> and is a <"fantastic nutrient sponge">. They have the <"aerial advantage"> of access to atmospheric CO2.
Is there a way to make a mix that mimics TNC Light?
I.e. ALL of the other necessary things without the NO3 or PO4?
Not using the Solufeed 2 : 1 : 4 mix, but you could carry on using the micro element mix?

Cheers Darrel
 
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Hi Darrel, thanks for your help!

Some tank shots for you to see. I am definitely struggling with the plants and have just recently started with an algae issue - suspect that this is due to the high level of phosphate.
Got some phosphate remover on order.
Does the Sodium Free Tec include all of the micros or in the original recipe do some of them come from the 2:1:4? If so what would I need to add to the Sodium Free Tec to cover all the micros?

Thanks!
 

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Hi all,
Hi Darrel, thanks for your help!
That is what UKAPS is for. If you want some floating plants (Amazon Frogbit, Water Lettuce and / or Salvinia) PM and I'll send you some. They are great nutrient sponges.
Some tank shots for you to see. I am definitely struggling with the plants and have just recently started with an algae issue - suspect that this is due to the high level of phosphate.
Possibly for the algae growth, but it won't affect plant growth, unless the <"high levels of PO4---"> have made iron (Fe++(+))? unavailable.
Got some phosphate remover on order.
It will work <"in the short term">, because PO4--- is highly mobile within the plant, but in the longer term it will <"stop all plant growth">, because most <"phosphate compounds are insoluble">.
Does the Sodium Free Tec include all of the micros or in the original recipe do some of them come from the 2:1:4? If so what would I need to add to the Sodium Free Tec to cover all the micros?
You would need to cover all the nutrients, like potassium (K), which aren't in the micro mix. Plants <"need all fourteen of the essential nutrients for plant growth">, just in vastly different amounts.

<"TEC - Sodium Free">.

Cheers Darrel
 
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Hi all just so that I can chime in on this one, I was using tap water and no potassium sorbate or white vinegar initially and only 2 1 4

I saw good growth with the solufeed, however I decided to do a proper mix including trace around early December.

So now I see much more colour in the plants and the growth is off the charts, so I have a greater understanding of what the DW, sorbate and white vinegar actually do could somebody explain?
 
Hi all,
..... and only 2 1 4

I saw good growth with the solufeed, however I decided to do a proper mix including trace around early December.

So now I see much more colour in the plants and the growth is off the charts,
Growth was limited by one of the fourteen essential nutrients for plant growth missing, or in limiting amounts, in the 2 : 1 : 4 mix.
Hi all just so that I can chime in on this one, I was using tap water and no potassium sorbate or white vinegar.
It is likely that insoluble compounds had formed, possibly due to calcium (Ca) and / or bicarbonate ((HCO3) forming insoluble compounds with one of the other essential plant nutrients.
so I have a greater understanding of what the DW, sorbate and white vinegar actually do could somebody explain?
Deionised water doesn't contain any calcium etc., potassium sorbate is a fungicide, and stops opportunistic microbes using the essential nutrients and organic carbon from the chelating agent.

Potassium sorbate is effective at low pH levels, and the acetic acid depresses pH.

Cheers Darrel
 
Hi All

One of my problems in life is I don't ask for help often enough - I just try and get on with it without necessarily admitting my (numerous) failings. Well I'm struggling now and doubting my ability to read, understand and make decisions. I seem to have "over read" several topics and have just ended up confusing myself again and effectively going around in circles. I've just purchased a second aquarium which is 200l - seemed like a good idea at the time - its not setup yet but I need to correct any failings in approach before I set that one up .....

To briefly outline my setup:-
- 340 litre tank (Maidenhead Aquatics Oak double doors)
- no CO2 injection
  • 3 TMC Aquaray tiles 6500k - all tiles set to 2 hour ramp up (14:00-16:00) max level of 45% and 2 hour ramp down (20:00-22:00)
  • Two Eheim 350 external filters (one is the thermal variant 350T) - both fitted with prefilters
  • substrate is JBL Pro Flora AquaBasis Plus topped off with JBL Mando - this has been in place since 2018 - I'm thinking is this could now be exhausted or are any nutrients in it being "topped up" with the liquid ferts???
  • weekly 50% water change with Seachem Prime added upon refilling
  • see below for latest water parameter testing

A couple of weeks ago I noticed the following (see image) on the stem plant leaves (cant remember name sorry) - it appeared seemingly almost overnight!! - it was only evident on the "new growth" of the stem plant leaves - the Tiger Lotus has gone crazy and there are now several independent seats of growth from the original 1 bulb which I trim regularly especially the leaves heading to surface. The other plant in the shot similar to a hydrocotyle (again cant remember the name sorry) is unaffected.
1736861684217.jpeg

I trimmed the stem plants and removed a lot of them. I blindly added one capful of Seachem potassium and Seachem iron as my "research" could not definitively identify the deficiency (naïve I know). I feel a right prat for not realising I was acting blindly....but things seemed to have improved.........

I was an early participant/user in this thread - I use the Solufeed 2:1:4 and Solufeed Sodium free TEC solutions and following early advise dose 30ml of each into my 340litre (75gallon) tank every other day with 1 day of rest. The image below was kindly calculated by either Zeus or Happi I cant remember sorry.......the only thing I haven't done up until yesterday is to use the ascorbic acid and potassium sorbate in the original mixes - I have used tap water - see below for update on mix method.
1736859414279.png


I have been battling against BBA for years - its not taken over completely but is at/ was at nuisance/unsightly levels to me as I knew it was there!!. I have read numerous threads on here and tried different remedies - the latest I have tried is directing the flow from the spray bars to the front of the tank as a member (Zeus?) commented in another thread it was more likely down to flow. This has increased flow from front to back where the prefilters are installed but the problem persisted. Again, I have read in further readings that BBA maybe caused by excess phosphates. I purchased the API phosphate kit (I know some members views that all of the kits have problems and can be unreliable). To my "surprise"/horror I found that the phosphate was showing at 5ppm and thought I had managed to identify the more likely cause. This was done on the 30th December 2024 with the following additional parameters Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrates 10 and pH 6.8 (all API)

I purchased Seachem PhosOut and placed the 85ml (slightly over for my size tank I recognise) into a filter bag between two filter pads in the upper tray of the Eheim 350. Concentrations of PO4 gradually declined in subsequent days as I was testing all above parameters daily - the PO4 declined to 2ppm but then stayed steady at 1ppm the next day or so, so I renewed the SeaChem PhosGuard in the filter (Im trying to get to 0.25ppm). Ammonia and Nitrite remained at zero during this testing with nitrates reaching 10 prior to the weekly water changes. The thing I have noticed is that the pH has dropped from 6.8 to 6.6 and now has been sat at 6.4 for several days. Yesterday I undertook the routine weekly 50% water change.

Yesterday was also the first day of dosing using the following mixing instructions as I have purchased the potassium sorbate, distilled water and white vinegar - I read the comments in the post above from @dw1305 explaining why they were a necessary consideration and I made an all in one mix (not separate dosing of micros/macros as before) - I had found previously these instructions in this thread....
1736863198462.jpeg

I dosed 30ml of this all in one mix yesterday - I recall prior advice to dose separately which is the approach I took but the latest mentioned above seemed to imply an "all in" mix - have I misunderstood the instructions? Will the usage of low levels of white vinegar in the mix depress pH levels further? Was my previous use of tap water in the mix affecting calcium levels as mentioned in dw1305's post above.

This morning when I have gone to the 340l tank to take the daily water samples (primarily to monitor the PO4 levels) and I have found that the stem plants that had regrown perfectly over the last couple of weeks are now looking identical to the photo above. This has happened overnight as they were not like this yesterday when I undertook the 50% water change. Todays water parameters are - PO4 1, Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0 , Nitrates 5 and pH 6.4. I'm thinking about renewing the Seachem PhosGuard on a regular basis as my thought is (probably dangerous) that phosphate is "leaching" out of the now old (7 years) substrate - is this possible? Also I'm concerned that the pH has dropped to 6.4.....what additional problems (if any) may this present? . At the same time have noticed a subtle reduction in BBA on the Crypts and in the corners of the aquarium along the sealant and it has gone from the dragon stone hardscape since starting using the PhosOut. Also the level of algae on the glass has decreased significantly - this has always been easy to remove with a cloth but is almost not noticeable now.

What deficiency is causing the stem plant to react like it is? Is my change in approach purely co-incidental? Have I completely missed the obvious as I have no chemistry knowledge whatsoever after being confused in school in the 1970's about calculating moles.... I think that's where the chemistry mental block was set in stone..

Please ask any additional questions - I'm obviously missing something "obvious" or omitted to mention something of relevance - I'm not blessed with a lot of patience in trying something and thinking that it hasn't worked, and then trying something else. I have outlined my actions above just in case someone much more knowledgeable than myself can spot my mistake(s) - sorry for ramblings which may, or may not help to adequately (and not probably eloquently) explain my concerns.

Phil
 
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