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Seachem stability=cloudy water?

AquaJoe69

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21 Dec 2021
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Location
Sweden
Hi,

I'm on my fifth day on a dark start for a high tech tank and since day one I have used seachem stability as per instructions to help get the tank going. Now from day four the water seems to be a bit cloudy and I'm wonder if I should do anything about it or just let it be.

The soil is tropica aquasoil, mix of wood and lava stone in the hardscape and a canister filter.
 
It will NOT hasten cycling, more likely quite the contrary.

Hi all,

It is unlikely that <"Seachem Stability"> is supplying any useful bacteria, like @_Maq_ says it is just increasing the bioload and actually adding more nitrogen (N) to your tank.

I confess to having bought a Seachem Stability in the past and it didn't seem to do anything.... in UKAPS I learnt the truth about people selling magic water in a bottle!

This poor chap had it worse: he had one litre of Seachem Matrix which is supposed to be an ideal home for all that good bacteria and dutifully added Seachem Stability daily for 2 months and his tank still hadn't cycled:

Also see:
 
Hi all,
From my point of view all those commercial products are useless. Go to your LFS buy dirty sponge from them and just squueze inside of aquarium.
That looks to be the best advice.

This is from <"Correspondence with Dr Ryan Newton - School of Freshwater Sciences, University of Wisconsin—Milwaukee"> Dr Newton says:
It is a good question to ask where the initial inoculum of nitrifiers comes from & it is a question that I do not have a definitive answer. Nitrifiers are present in many environments because they can live with comparably low external nutrients (carbon particularly). There are a couple of good possibilities, 1) the water - most municipal water systems contain some number of nitrifiers, which then come out of your residence tap; 2) the plants - nitrifiers are also commonly associated with plants. Or, it could be they drift in from the air - seems less likely, but it is not impossible.

If you do need to add nitrifiers the best source is from an aquaponics or aquaculture system that is already running and removing ammonia. Some water or sediment/soil or part of the biobilter (if there is one) is an excellent starter. Without this source as an inoculum then you could add some roots from plants from any other tank that is running - these are likely to have nitrifiers associated with them. A small clipping put into the tank would be enough.

In some lab tests we found that adding previous material from a running biofilter could reduce ammonia oxidation start-up time from 2-3 weeks to 2-3 days. We also tested a commercial product of nitrifiers & it did decrease the time to ammonia oxidation start-up. It was slower than our biofilter material transfer, but much quicker than doing nothing. However, the microbes present in the system from the commercial product disappeared over a few weeks and were replaced by those more common to our system. So, it seems some products could help “jump-start” the process, but it will be a lot less predictable and ultimately may not determine what microbe succeed in the long run.
We've also talked with Dr Tim Hovanec <"One & Only Live Nitrifying Bacteria">, whose comments may also be of interest <"Dr Timothy Hovanec's comments about Bacterial supplements">.

cheers Darrel
 
Hi all,
I'm on my fifth day on a dark start for a high tech tank and since day one I have used seachem stability as per instructions to help get the tank going. Now from day four the water seems to be a bit cloudy and I'm wonder if I should do anything about it or just let it be.
I'd definitely change some water and stop adding the <"Seachem Stability">, you could try <"Tim Hovanec's product"> or <"Secret Ingredient Soup">.

You are going to get some ammonia (NH3) release from the soil, and ideally you want to <"reduce that level"> and a dark start, with water changes, is one way to do that.
It will take 6-8 weeks for full cycle, do not rush it.
I think that is <"the sort of time scale">, but I think you can shorten it by adding plants. I like a floating plant initially because it won't get covered in algae and it has <"access to atmospheric CO2">.

cheers Darrel
 
Last edited:
I stopped using stability as per suggestion and did a 25% water change yesterday. Looks much better today, going to my local fish store to buy some tests to monitor the parameters better. A friend suggested this from jbl, any thoughts?
jbl-pro-aquatest-combiset-plus-nh4.jpeg
 
Hi all,
I stopped using stability as per suggestion and did a 25% water change yesterday. Looks much better today
That sounds promising.
A friend suggested this from jbl, any thoughts?
Semi-titrimetric tests ("count the number of drops"), ideally <"with a standard"> included, are usually better than test strips etc. but I have <"some reservations"> about nearly all test kits available to us <"Testing kit recommendations">.

I <"like a conductivity meter">. Conductivity isn't the parameter you would choose to measure, but <"you can infer"> somethings from the value, and that value is likely to be accurate.

Both <"Estimative"> and <"Duckweed Indices"> were designed to do away with the need for <"decision making based on test kit results">. That wasn't because water chemistry isn't important , it is very important, it just reflected the difficulties in getting accurate values for the water parameters that <"were of interest">.

cheers Darrel
 
Hi all,

That sounds promising.

Semi-titrimetric tests ("count the number of drops"), ideally <"with a standard"> included, are usually better than test strips etc. but I have <"some reservations"> about nearly all test kits available to us <"Testing kit recommendations">.

I <"like a conductivity meter">. Conductivity isn't the parameter you would choose to measure, but <"you can infer"> somethings from the value, and that value is likely to be accurate.

Both <"Estimative"> and <"Duckweed Indices"> were designed to do away with the need for <"decision making based on test kit results">. That wasn't because water chemistry isn't important , it is very important, it just reflected the difficulties in getting accurate values for the water parameters that <"were of interest">.

cheers Darrel
Thanks for the reply, but it made me possibly more confused than before, is there any test that yourself use that you can recommend or do you go more by signs on the plants and other observations in the tank do take the apropiate means to deal with stuff?
 
Thanks for the reply, but it made me possibly more confused than before, is there any test that yourself use that you can recommend or do you go more by signs on the plants and other observations in the tank do take the apropiate means to deal with stuff?
I used this test kit while cycling, yeah it helped me. But you dont need the entire kit, just get NH4, NO2 and NO3, that should be enough. And if you will use a dirty sponge as I mentioned before (squeeze inside of the aquarium), cycle will take couple of days. And most important do not add all fish at once, do it slowly. And another thing, try to not plant in vitro plants while cycling, from my experience these invitro platns are very vulnerable to high ammonia levels and starts to melt.
 
While searching for those specific single type tests for NH4, NO2 & 3 i found this from seachem.
seachem-ammonia-alert-ammoniaksensor.jpeg

Has anyone tried these before? Or just bs
 
try to not plant in vitro plants while cycling, from my experience these invitro platns are very vulnerable to high ammonia levels and starts to melt.
In vitro plants often struggle in the beginning indeed but I don't believe ammonia/um is the (prime) cause. My recent experiment seems to support my stance. Tissue culture plants are currently in best shape in tank C, with very high ammonia/um.
 
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