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i mentioned in a thread about GSA on my crypts and anubias leaves....well i had it quite bad, so just upped po4 (way more than usual) and raised the MH lighting. all GSA gone within 2 weeks.

this lot was covered. now things are clean again ( :D kerching)

the fish swam in the way at the last moment.

crypts.jpg
 
that's it nick.

here's some pics from the past. I don't think i've put these up here on UKAPS yet, excuse me if I have.

LAMPEYES.jpg


perling2-1.jpg


ram1-1.jpg


shrimpy-1.jpg


cutting room floor stuff.
 
Brilliant photography, Mark! That shrimp shot is off-the-hook.

Can you share some techniques with us, please?

i.e. are these taken with 2 x studio flash head and MH?
What apertures and shutter speeds? What power settings on the flash heads?
What fittings to your flash heads - softbox, umbrellas or just regular reflectors?
How are the flashes sync'd?

Thanks for sharing!
 
George Farmer said:
Can you share some techniques with us, please?

i.e. are these taken with 2 x studio flash head and MH?
What apertures and shutter speeds? What power settings on the flash heads?
What fittings to your flash heads - softbox, umbrellas or just regular reflectors?
How are the flashes sync'd?

you do know if i do that, tonser will be sat in his chair with screams of laughter. :lol: ...."ya dont do it like that! :lol: "

The above were all taken with flash. I didn't put them up as there all wrong in some way or another....more so than the ones i think are right.

you spotted shrimpy, put then it's obvious why i guess.

i do posses a softbox, but as yet i cant use effectively.

i seem to be having most success with just pointing the 2 lights straight down into the tank. if more lights were available, I'd be using softboxes and umbrellas in all kinda ways.

typically I'd set ISO to 5o shutter speed to 200/s...nothing above that really otherwise the camera does not catch all the light.F11 for most shots.The flash heads would be st to no. 3 on the heads.....whatever that converts to. it's possible to highlight areas by upping the output on just one light.

with a black background I'd shield the light front and back....

flashpractise2.jpg


i've found this stops light spill onto the background and gives the deepest blacks without effort.

1.jpg


both lights are fire via a wireless transmitter which are situated within the heads.Stand wise, I have to improvise a little.
when it comes to the graduated backgrounds, i let the light spill onto the background, this where another light would come in a treat :(

IMG_9704-01.jpg


which would give you this kinda thing....
crop2.jpg

reallightattempt.jpg


With the MH lighting things change completely and give a different look altogether due to the fact the F4's and 2.8's come into play due to the lower light intensities....a look i like a lot. Stricter white balance control comes into play though.

swampy.jpg


I'm sure there's a ton of stuff I don't do that I should, but like other hobbies, practise makes us better 8)
 
George Farmer said:
May I ask how much that cost, Mark?

the lamp or unit?

I'm only changing the lamp, but yes the difference will be interesting to see. It's the colour rendition I'm most interested in. the Arcadia lamp is nice but way too warm for my liking.

after a bit of investigation, i've found (through hear say and user recommendation) that the ADA lamps are great things, so I'm going for it.

i've got it from TGM with a good price to boot.

i'll do a comparison for everyone with MH lighting
 
light installed. although it's not the NAG green i was after. it's the normal NAMH type which is still giving a nice green to the plants. i've also lost the warm tone which the Arcadia gave. all in all it's a nice lamp. :D
 
Nice bud, shame it wasn't the right bulb though. You'd think for that price they'd try to get it right... and provide a box to put it in :lol: :crazy: Anyone would think its second hand from a display tank :silent:
 
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