sumink fishy said:
Hi Ceg,
I thought you didn't beleive in testing water perameters? Is this your tank and if so how do you know the KH and GH values?
Hi sumink,
I don't believe in testing for
nutrients. people testing for nutrients sends me into orbit. That behavior has a
huge impact because plants require massive quantities of NPK so if the test kit lies to you and if you believe it then you get into trouble in a hurry. KH, GH and even pH test kits on the other hand are innocuous because there is not much inherent in their readings that can get you into trouble. You don't actually have to
do anything with their results as the readings are academic. Ironically, that then makes them more or less useless from the perspective that you don't really need to worry about what they tell you from a plant's perspective. I don't use them very often, perhaps a couple times a year. KH/GH kits do show some consistency with TDS meters. The TDS meter tells you much more, especially if you are breeding softwater fish.
scottturnbull said:
I'm still cautious about claiming there's no upper limit of kh for certain plants. Recently my eco-complete stopped leaching carbonates. A bolbitis heudelotii that was struggling suddenly went into overdrive. Beforehand it was dark green and crispy around the edges. Now it's translucent green and unfurling new leaves almost every day. The tropica website claims bolbitis prefers ph of 5-7. While the eco-complete was leaching carbonates, the ph was above 7 at night. Now it's stopped, the ph is below 7 all the time. This could be unrelated, though. I've tweaked everything else in between: CO2, flow, GH, dosing, you name it. So it's far from being a scientific observation.
Exactly. This is why one has to be able to stabilize all other variables and to vary one at a time, which is almost impossible in a tank. What you can do though is to now deliberately add carbonate to the tank to raise the KH to some target level and see what happens after about 3 weeks or so. Then, stop adding the additional carbonates and observe. Continue this cycle several times and observe results. If the bolbitis consistently exhibits negative reactions at or approaching the target level and consistently shows improved performance when the carbonates are removed and the KH is reduced then you'll have strong correlation between [high KH/high pH] and poor performance.
Some species such as Tonina and the verticillated versions of Ludwigia show strong general correlation between high KH/GH/TDS and poor performance but can still be grown well. It just means that when the water parameters are outside their supposedly optimal range one has less margin for error such that CO2 is more critical for example. If CO2/nutrients are kept high they can still perform well even outside the optimal range.
here is a typical example: This is Ludwigia inclinata var. verticillata "Cuba" which can sometimes be a difficult plant. It is purported to be KH/GH sensitive and is optimized for very soft water yet, has little or no trouble growing in the same hard water tank. CO2 and nutrient dosing are stringently adhered to however so there are few issues. This is one of the first plants in my tank to suffer if CO2 is at all sub-par. I'll need to determine whether it's sensitivity is as high in a low TDS tank. If I can show that performance and sensitivity is comparable then I'll strike this off the list of TDS sensitive plants and move it to the CO2 sensitive list.
Cheers