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Journal Pondering it all…

the Myriophyllum brasiliensis is showing exceptional growth in just 24 hours:
Man, this is a proper aquatic porn
Lol, I took the Mrs to the pub a couple of weeks ago, bought her two (persuasive) double malibu and cokes, then casually mentioned turning the no longer used kids play area into a pond; The answer I got was a resounding  "NO."
What's the difference between a lady and a diplomat? When a diplomat says "maybe" he means no, when he says "no" he is no diplomat - when a lady says "no" she means maybe, when she says "maybe" she means yes, and when she says "yes" she is no lady.
 
May I ask for more details on the lights (Brand, watt, how many you can have etc) Please. 🙂

Hey @martin-green sure thing. It’s two sets of lights:

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The whiter set of six are these:

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3W for the six lights and they’re more focused.

The other set that are warmer yellow are also from pondtec:

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These are 1W each or 3W together and give a broader warm glow.

So 6 watts total for all lighting but they’ve exceeded expectations on brightness, had to angle them away from our neighbours houses. The set of three are adjustable along one axis, the set of six are multidirectional on a ball joint.

The set of six comes with a light/dark sensor you can choose to put inline, if you want the lights to automatically come on at night. Set of three didn’t, but you can order the sensor separately.

As with nearly all pond gear you have to fit a plug but other than that, plop in the pond and enjoy 😊
 
Hummingbird hawk-moth:

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Was too difficult to photograph on the Lobelia cardinalis across the pond, very fast and agile. Was quite content to be photographed up close on the patio though:

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Hello Geoffrey. Can I just ask if you’re using any fertiliser? I note you EI dosed the plants when in holding tanks but are you now just relying on fish feeding/waste for nutrients? I ask as the plant growth in my new pond seems to have stalled. The new lily pads seem to be smaller than their predecessors and a selection of oxygenators, water cress, marshmarigolds, mint and irises have exhibited growth ranging from nil to sluggish.
The lilies are in aquatic compost in baskets with a fertiliser ball each. The other plants are in 20mm gravel with no compost/fertiliser.
The tub holds 12 rice fish fry raised from eggs. Today I’ve added some liquid fertiliser to this tub. The main pond is populated by 10 white clouds and some ?roach fry(inadvertently added as eggs lurking in some weed from Derwent water)so there is no significant artificial food added to the pond.

best wishes Ian image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 
Hi @Ian61

Hello Geoffrey. Can I just ask if you’re using any fertiliser?

Yes, sure am.

I note you EI dosed the plants when in holding tanks but are you now just relying on fish feeding/waste for nutrients?

Nope, EI was just for the temporary holding tubs. Now running the pond as a planted tank with the worlds most powerful light unit above it. Adapted dosing to our tap water here.

I ask as the plant growth in my new pond seems to have stalled. The new lily pads seem to be smaller than their predecessors and a selection of oxygenators, water cress, marshmarigolds, mint and irises have exhibited growth ranging from nil to sluggish.

Got some questions if you don’t mind Ian:

  • Filtered? What filtration? Easily backwashed?
  • Additional aeration?
  • Good flow? All water moving?
  • UV running?
  • How many litres is your pond?
  • How many hours of direct sunlight?
  • Water changes? How frequently if so?

Also, beautiful pond Ian 😎
 
Hi. Vol is approx 3500 litres. As pond has been designed primarily as a lily pond with very limited fish stock(white clouds,rice fish) there is no filtration or aeration , with flow provided by waterblade feature which only runs intermittently. I’ve been down the koi route before in a previous pond (45000 litres and lots of filter paraphernalia)which would not have been suitable for my current patio area.
Although on the north side of my house the pond surface is almost 100% exposed to direct sunlight mid-summer which probably drops to say 50% in spring and autumn.
Water supply comes from Thirlmere and is probably as close to pure rainwater as you’re ever going to get from a tap.Plus it rains quite a lot here (!) ED3081F2-14E4-4BE5-ABB4-6668EFF32386.jpegso there is some water turnover via a built-in overflow.
As expected/inevitably the water is now green approx 3 months after filling. My aim ,in time, is to have enough of the surface shaded by lily pads for the water to clear but also have some healthy growth of marginals in raised baskets and in the guttering and hopefully a decent mass of oxygenators(I’ve added limited quantities of Egeria, hornwort,myrophyllium,starwort). The oxygenators have performed particularly poorly despite being fairly near the surface. You may also see some Pistia which looks , to my mind , pretty nutritionally impoverished.
I fully appreciate it’ll probably be next year before things bed in but wonder whether some fertiliser may kick start the plant growth.13DEF46C-D6FB-44B4-8ADB-2838800B36D2.jpeg
 
Plus it rains quite a lot here (!)

Very familiar Ian, Lake District is old stomping grounds from growing up in Lancashire. Also, being a foul weather/winter walker (prefer the quiet tops) also very familiar with the taste of the rain and precipitation up there.

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Look at that beautiful summit view, fantastic 😂

To your advantage though, your pond is being topped up for free!

There really isn’t a question as such other than the EI question, just a want to grow healthy plants in your setup. The way the tubs and the pond are run here is largely irrelevant as system design is entirely different.

Can suggest some possibilities using only your existing equipment though? The only query I have is whether it’s an answer for this season, or next season? Or both, prep this year for next?

We’re getting pretty late on with the best of the season having potentially passed, but there may yet be a brief period of sunny skies and high pressure coming our way according to the current weather modelling.
 
Hi,thanks for the interest. I’ve also had that view on Scafell pike summit .
I had no expectations of the pond being the finished article this or even next year. The six lilies were tiny when planted so I’ve been pleased with their progress so hopefully next year they’ll be providing significant shading. My only pressing concern is that most of the submersed oxygenators have exhibited minimal growth or melted away. Perhaps an indicator of too low nutrient levels has been the water cress going to seed and very few new tiny leaves since.
I’m just wondering if there’s something I can do to boost plant growth til a natural equilibrium is established .
 
My only pressing concern is that most of the submersed oxygenators have exhibited minimal growth or melted away.

Okey dokey… Firstly, they require being submersed. If not you’ll lose lower growth in favour of emersed growth. Note your Myriophyllum Brasiliensis:


The benefit of the plant’s photosynthesis is mostly going into the atmosphere, not the water column.

Second, they will favour a pond with continual surface agitation for gas exchange. As the above picture shows, once there’s access to adequate co2/o2 the root stock can get to work. It’s misleading as you’re watching the death throes of the plant before the stem rots and the tops float off to find a new home. You may consider running your waterblade 24/7 for continual top up of co2/o2. If that is an issue there’s always an air pump and airstones.

Lastly, they’re voracious growers so will require fertilisation via root and water column if you want the best from them, followed with trimming to keep them submersed.

The biggest limiting factors are gas exchange and flow around the pond for distribution. Despite them being called oxygenators (all submersed plants are during daylight) the co2 input needs to be there for carbon, unless the design of your system were dramatically different e.g. nature pond, massive relative plant mass to water volume. It’s also impossible to know if there is any fertilisation amendment required yet until gas exchange is solved.

Same plant (with pump and aeration off for photo) here:

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With everything on, look at the surface agitation:

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To the point… They are no different from stem plants in the tank and require a narrow set of circumstances to thrive…

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For the hassle, is it worth tending to these ‘oxygenating’ species for you Ian or would you be better served by running air or the waterblade for guaranteed oxygenation of the pond?

Also, there’s a ton of native species that will survive year on year so planting those out now instead could be worth a punt.
 
Well the Shubunkin’s finally decided it’s time to rip the Myriophyllum brasiliensis apart 😂

Not to miss an opportunity, we’re left with only plants with the aerial advantage now. Some are looking a bit tired with root tabs getting exhausted:

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Switching up to full EI dosing:

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Even upgraded the lighting unit:

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See how we go.
 
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