Well here is some info from hoppy from when I was discussing LEDs before my build. ,
Although I have used a different make and this is based on Crees , Crees are thought to perform better then bridgelux , anyhow my LEDs should run at 350ma @ 110 lumen ( I run them @ 300mA) so I estimate that mine are just over half the amount stated in his data sheet which could give me at least 50 par ( Probably more )
'''Cree's data sheets on the XR-E Q5 cool white and Royal Blue LEDs show 235 lumens at 1000 MAmps, which is the maximum current they should be driven at. At 700 MAmps, they show 182 lumens, and that is probably the highest current you should use if you want full life out of the LEDs. Using those lumen outputs, with the LEDs spaced 50 mm apart, two rows, and with 60 degree optics, my calculator says you would get around 90 micromols of PAR at a distance of 500 mm. That should work very well, so you could use the dimmer to adjust the PAR down as low as 35 micromols.
I don't have enough data on the Bridgelux LEDs to guess how well it would work with them.
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This is based on 20 day white and 10 royal blue.
So at least this gives me sort of an idea how much light I have.
He also states warm white give more par then day white And day white more par then cold white (10k which I have) and so on.
This Is also from hoppy
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PAR Values(Source) - Thanks Gnomecatcher for the suggestion!
Values between 10-30 are considered low light.
Values between 30-80 are considered medium light.
Values between 80-120 are considered high light.
Keep in mind that these values are what is currently accepted by the community as accurate, and aren't set in stone.
I guess I'm currently in the medium light but could be the higher end of medium light .
I have also raised the light now to 600 mm from sediment which could also Lower that par .
Cheers
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