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My plants are dying! What to do?

Cheers Foxfish
Is that not the idea of a decent controller to switch the gas on when it moves above the set PH.
Will leave it at that now mate.
hoggie
 
Victor.

There is a lot of confusion on here regarding ph controller use. Or weather you should leave on for 24 hrs.

The main thing to remember is to have the co2 steady and on constantly while the light period is on.

How you achieve this is up to you. There is nothing wrong with using a ph controller or leaving gas on for 24/7

I would suggest using the ph controller as an on off switch for now. And invest in a good needle valve to maintain steady gas flow.
 
There is nothing wrong with using a ph controller or leaving gas on for 24/7

Poor Victor! I am so sorry for all the confusion 🙁

It would seem people think your PH controller is fine 🙂 so please ignore my post (I cant delete them).

Perhaps follow Geoff's advice.....

Lets hope your better lighting will help.
 
The problem with ph controllers is that its not just co2 that affects the ph reading. If something other than co2 alters ph then the amount of co2 in the tank will change eg when your active substrate stops lowering ph, your controller will lower ph with co2 instead
 
I'd advise you check the pH of the tank without CO2 by turning off the CO2, and allow the water to degass, this will give you a clear picture of how much CO2 is being added by the controller. (my tanks standing pH is 7.6, when I inject CO2 it falls to 6.5ish) if your readings are similar to this, across the tank, and constant throughout the photoperiod then I'd be happy that the problem is not CO2 related.

On the plus side I do see new growth on the hemianthus and this may indicate that the increase in flow is doing the job of getting CO2 at last to the stems...maybe you just need to wait and see if you've already made the right corrective steps, they say only bad things happen quickly in planted tanks!
 
Ok, guys. don't worry. I'll just increase the Co2 level and I've already removed some light tubes.

On the plus side I do see new growth on the hemianthus and this may indicate that the increase in flow is doing the job of getting CO2 at last to the stems

Yes, I think so. I hope they recovery completely 🙂
 
Merry christmas, mates! Do you know if I can use chelated calcium as a good Ca source? I relized that it don't increase the dGH, somebody know why? Thank you again.
 
Hi all,
Do you know if I can use chelated calcium as a good Ca source
Traditional seasonal greeting to you to. I'm not sure, but you don't need to chelate calcium, it occurs as a whole range of sparingly soluble compounds (CaCO3, CaSO4.2H2O) which will form a buffered calcium source. All calcium compounds will raise dGH, as it is only the Ca++ ion that the plant can take up.

If you want a more soluble compound CaCl2 is cheap and easy to buy.

cheers Darrel
 
All calcium compounds will raise dGH, as it is only the Ca++ ion that the plant can take up.
I'm afraid that the plants can't take up chelated calcium. It can't raise the dGH at all. It's better I stop to add chelated calcium?
 
Hi all,
I'm afraid that the plants can't take up chelated calcium. It can't raise the dGH at all. It's better I stop to add chelated calcium?
Yes stop adding it, sorry I should have made it a bit clearer. When any element is chelated it is unavailable to the plant, this is because it is bound to the chelating compound. Chelators differ from simple chemical salts (like CaCO3 etc), because the ion is bound to the chelating molecule and not combined into it.

Bit about chelates
This bond is often quite stable, and we can only add iron (Fe) as FeEDTA or similar, because although the iron is very tightly held the bond is degraded by sunlight, producing Fe+++ ions, these ions are quite reactive and rapidly form other compounds, many of which are insoluble (e.g. Fe(OH)3). For similar reasons calcium chelates were developed for the food nutritional supplement industry, and are dubiously of value even for that usage.

Raising dGH
If you want to add dGH, any soluble calcium compound (e.g. CaCl2) will add this. If you use "Epsom Salts" MgSO4.7H2O you can raise dGH without adding calcium or adding carbonate hardness, and often a mixture of Epsom salts and calcium chloride is used. Unless you have calcium poor and carbonate (dKH) rich water (very unusual in the UK), you can add a small amount of calcium carbonate to raise both dGH and dKH, the aragonite form of CaCO3 is most soluble, and "Oyster shell chick grit" (sold as a poultry feed supplement) is usually a cheap efficient option.

Plants don't need much calcium, so very small amounts of Ca will do, the same for magnesium, as long as there is some present, you don't need a huge amount.

If you feeI happier with a commercial product, Seachem etc produce salt mixes that raise both dGH/dKH.

cheers Darrel
 
Thank you, Darrel!
Yes stop adding it, sorry I should have made it a bit clearer. When any element is chelated it is unavailable to the plant, this is because it is bound to the chelating compound. Chelators differ from simple chemical salts (like CaCO3 etc), because the ion is bound to the chelating molecule and not combined into it.
Sorry, I was mistaken. Chelated calcium can rise the dGH thoroughly. My dGH test kit is very inaccurate and I had to add a great quantity of chelated calcium to a small volume of water to detect some dGH rise. But the plants can take up chelated elements like Fe, Cu, Mn and Zn except Mo and B, alright? Do you think that glycine is a good chelator? I'm using trace elements chelated by glycine.
 
Good night, friends!

I've decided to reset my tank. Accidentally, I left the lights on during 48 hours! So I had an algae explosion, blue-green, brown algae and others. I'll remove all plants, wash them and to try to replant some of them again. I'll to renew my substrate I'll put under the thin gravel a layer of earthworms húmus. I'm treating this húmus right now, I'm removing all organic matter from it. When I restart the tank, you advice that I use 2 light tubes (60 w to 360 L) for 5 hours day? I've solved CO2 problem, I've configurated the ph computer to keep the CO2 flowing all time and I've linked it to a timer. So, the CO2 turn on 1 hour before the lights on and turn off 1 hour before they off. Ah, I'll also add some crystalized bactéria to accelerate the cycling. What do you think about? Thank you.
 
Hi Victor
Just proves what happens when you have to much light....and not enough Co2.
Get some fast growing plants and some floaters.
Dose fertilizers as normal.
Get your Co2 drop checker to Green before lights switch on.
Do lots of smaller water changes...say 20 litres every other day this will keep substrate disturbance down.
Gravel clean before water change.
hoggie
 
Hi Victor
Just proves what happens when you have to much light....and not enough Co2.
Get some fast growing plants and some floaters.
Dose fertilizers as normal.
Get your Co2 drop checker to Green before lights switch on.
Do lots of smaller water changes...say 20 litres every other day this will keep substrate disturbance down.
Gravel clean before water change.
hoggie
Thank you by your feedback, Hoggie

But I decided to restart the tank again. The algae infestation is out of control. I'll replace some plants and try to salve some others. I'll also change the substrate.
 
Hi, guys! Take a look at my new substrate. It's earth worms humus. Do you thing it's a good choice? I need to boil it or not? Ah, I have 20 kg of this. It's too much?

bbEsc2e.jpg
 
Do you thing it's a good choice?
looks good, but no experience of using it...why not just use the rich looking topsoil this comes from? my theory is that if there is evidence of fertile growth from the soil you are considering then that soil will be just as good for aquatic plants when flooded.
 
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