My Aquarium Journey - Sharing Experiences and Seeking Advice

[Mariusz]

Hey, fellow aquarists,

I wanted to share the journey of my aquarium and perhaps get some insights from the community. Currently, I have a 120x50x50 tank with around 220 litres of RO mineralized water.
Filtraction: Oase biomaster 850 with 5 kg matrix, and purigen. Pressured CO2 with pHbot and Chihiros WRGB 2 lamp.
At the base, there is some lava rock, 4L Dennerle Scaper soil, 10L ROTALA Maflora Intense soil and on the top 10 L Controsoil.
Rock Wio Titan Boulders. Wood from a local store.

Beginning:
I start with the dark method on 17th December 2023. Planted on 13th January with a plant from the list:
Eleocharis parvulus / minima,
Micranthemum Monte Carlo,
Eleocharis acicularis,
Christmas moss,
Riccardia chamedryfolia,
Eleocharis sp. Mini,
Staurogyne repens,
Hemianthus callitrichoides,
Microsorum trident,
Cryptocoryne lucens,
Cyperus helferi,
Eriocaulon cinereum,
Salvinia Auriculata,
Phyllanthus Fluitans,
Cryptocoryne Spiralis Red,
Echinodorus Tenellus Parvulus,
Bolbitis Compacta,
Vallisneria Nana,
The majority was from Invitro pots.

Fertilization Practices:
On day one water parameters were like this:
GH - 5
KH - 4
PH - 7.2
TDS - 190
NO - 3 2
PO4 - 0.25
K - 0
Fe - 0
Mg - 5
Ca - 20
The first day after planting plants I noticed that my GH dropped down to 2. I think active soil absorbs some Ca. I add some Seachem stability for the next 2 weeks to keep GH at 5. Because dry soil didn't come in time in the first week, I added ATP 3 fertilizer every day 6,5ml. to ensure my plants get the necessary nutrients. So weekly it was:
15.72 ppm K
1.06 ppm NO3
0.41 ppm PO4
0.03ppm Fe
0.24ppm Mg
Every 3-4 days in the first two weeks I was changing 45 L of mineralized RO water with 2 grams of K2SO4 to increase K at tank.

Algae Challenges:
One of the challenges I've encountered is dealing with algae. Despite my efforts, I've noticed after 11 days that some in-vitro plants have struggling and become melting (Micranthemum Monte Carlo and Staurogyne repens ).
Some small algae appear. I've tried adjusting the lighting duration, and tweaking the nutrient levels ( adding some microelements and iron) but not too much because it was in vitro plants so I assumed that they didn't catch on. Adding 11 otocinclus affinis and 10 red cherry shrimps.

After 3 weeks more of these plants started having the same issue and they were ok for the last 2 weeks.
And some small dust or hair algae start showing on rocks.
I have some algae on moss from day 1.And I found one more so

Last Saturday water parameters were like below:
GH - 5
KH - 4
PH - 6,63
TDS - 350
NO - 10
PO4 - 1-1,5 (in water from soil)
K - 25
Fe - 0,1
Mg - 9-12
Ca - 20
CO2- 28
I did a 90L water change and I added 50ml Femanga Algen Stopp General. And add more fish.
14 rasbora espei
15 Hyphessobrycon Amandae
7 Pseudomugil furcatus
11 Corydoras pygmaeus.
No fertilizer was added until today (6 ml APT 3)
For me, plants grow slowly ( Only floating plants have increased significantly ) or maybe they are fine and I overreact. I don't know if is it because lack of Ca compared to Mg or if something different is blocking them. I was adding 20ppm potassium with 45L water and it disappeared slowly. I don't want to add too many fertilizers and end up with an algae problem.


Seeking Advice:
I'm reaching out to the community for advice and shared experiences. Have any of you faced similar challenges with algae, and if so, what strategies have you found effective? Any tips on maintaining a balance between plant growth and algae control would be greatly appreciated. How do you think plants suffer from a lack of trace elements or nutrients?

Feel free to share your own aquarium journey or offer advice on fertilization and algae control. Let's learn from each other and continue to enjoy the beauty of our underwater worlds!

Thanks in advance for your insights!

 

[Mariusz]

Today I did another water test. And I need to confess that I made a mistake in calculating potassium all that time.
GH - 5.5
KH - 4
PH - 6,63
NO3 - 2
PO4 - 0,5
K - 10
Fe - below 0,1
Mg - 9
Ca - 25
CO2- 28
Looks like I don't have NO3 and that is why I have my problems. Also, I think I should increase K to 20ppm. I will start from this and update with the outcome.
I am thinking of going with the EI method for next month to see how the tank will react to that. In the long term, I don't want to do this because of the need for big water changes.

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,
Agreed it looks like a shortage of fixed nitrogen (N). However it is difficult to diagnose the deficiencies of nutrients that are <"mobile within the plant">, but you should get a fairly instant greening when you supply <"Liebig's Limiting Nutrient">.

I don't know what <"fertilisers you use">, or which are available to you, but have a look at: <"Solufeed 2:1:4 and Solufeed Sodium Free TEC or Solufeed Coir TEC Combination">

I'm not anti-testing (I actually look after <"a lab. where we do some water testing), but I'm not going to make decisions based on the water parameters, unless there is a <"high probability"> they are accurate.

I'm going to tell you that you have shown us a have a really accurate and precise test kit in this photo, and that test kit is the "Duckweed Index" - <"What is the “Duckweed Index” all about?">. Also, as you have Red root Floater (Phyllanthus fluitans) the <"VIMI RRF and nitrogen"> pages may be of interest.

Not everyone will agree with the next bit and I'm not trying to be difficult or funny, but I think the values below are your problem, most of those values are, at best, <"ball park figures"> unless you have access to <"analytical kit"> like (<"Ion Selective Electrode"> etc.) .

Today I did another water test. And I need to confess that I made a mistake in calculating potassium all that time.
GH - 5.5
KH - 4
PH - 6,63
NO3 - 2
PO4 - 0,5
K - 10
Fe - below 0,1
Mg - 9
Ca - 25
CO2- 28

To use potassium (K) as an example, it is one of the macro-nutrients, it is really easy to test for via <"flame photometry, AAS or ICP">, but <"difficult via colorimetric methods">.

Because it is a mobile nutrient if our plants are potassium deficient? Adding plant available potassium will instantly start them back into growth.

You don't actually need to know the quantifiable amount, the plants can't mislead, and if they start growing (or growing more quickly) then potassium has been deficient.

cheers Darrel

 

[palcente]

So I would(personal opinion): Get raw salts. Make the tank 30ppm no3 and keep it at that. If you get green spot algae add more PO4. If you get cyano, reduce PO4. Every time you wc , measure usage and make sure water you put in has 15/1 N/P ratio . Throw away all melting plants. That's what's causing algae. Pump more co2 than you need and dial down the light. Add some weeds like polyspherma or sessiflora... No need to plant them, just drop them in the back weighted and keep them for few months until tank is stabilized. Let weeds take over until you solve your problems. Once weeds pick up you can get rid of floating plants unless you want to keep few for monitoring. Get rid of 4 kg of stone from the filter gradually. You do t need 5 kg you have active soil with lava underneath, it's better to have more flow, so just use basic coarse sponge or leave the filter mostly empty... Add a little wave maker to move more water at the carpet level.

Best,
Matt

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

with 5 kg matrix

<"Is expensive bio media worth it?">

Get rid of 4 kg of stone from the filter gradually.

I agree with @palcente, you have vastly more filter media than you need. Have a look at <"Who needs a tank for a dark start…. Let’s see.">.

I add some Seachem stability for the next 2 weeks to keep GH at 5.

I'd just stop using it. Have a look at <"Dr Timothy Hovanec's comments about Bacterial supplements">.

If you meant Seachem <"Replenish"> or Seachem <"Equilibrium">? I'd stop using those too.

I'll be honest I have a <"bit of an issue"> with <"Seachem's advertising"> model & <"pricing">, and I don't personally buy any of their products.

cheers Darrel

 

[Mariusz]

Thank you guys for your prompt response! I truly appreciate the valuable advice and suggestions you've shared. A link for deficiencies of nutrients will be helpful. Usually, I am not testing water parameters every week. But with this new tank, I wanted to know what was going on. So I bought drop tests.
RRFT METHOD is really good information with I didn't know.
Matt, you talking about the Redfield Ratio right? I wanted to keep N and P like on the charts with I saw on the internet. About Matrix I hear a lot about over-filtration using bigger filters and more media than is recommended. I clean the prefilter every one to two weeks so the flow looks ok for now. I have at home Happet Wave Maker RW 15 (13000l/h) that I won a long time ago. But is massive so I didn't add it to the tank. Do you think there is a need for extra flow my outlet jet is not straight but pointed down.
Seachem stability I used only because I wanted to increase GH without KH. I mineralized RO water with a different product "growise mineralized" so my RO water has GH 8-9. KH4-5, 39 ppm Ca and 10,7 ppm Mg.
It's great to be part of such a supportive community. If you have any more tips or experiences to share, I'm all ears! Thanks again!

 

[palcente]

Thank you guys for your prompt response! I truly appreciate the valuable advice and suggestions you've shared. A link for deficiencies of nutrients will be helpful. Usually, I am not testing water parameters every week. But with this new tank, I wanted to know what was going on. So I bought drop tests.
RRFT METHOD is really good information with I didn't know.
Matt, you talking about the Redfield Ratio right? I wanted to keep N and P like on the charts with I saw on the internet. About Matrix I hear a lot about over-filtration using bigger filters and more media than is recommended. I clean the prefilter every one to two weeks so the flow looks ok for now. I have at home Happet Wave Maker RW 15 (13000l/h) that I won a long time ago. But is massive so I didn't add it to the tank. Do you think there is a need for extra flow my outlet jet is not straight but pointed down.
Seachem stability I used only because I wanted to increase GH without KH. I mineralized RO water with a different product "growise mineralized" so my RO water has GH 8-9. KH4-5, 39 ppm Ca and 10,7 ppm Mg.
It's great to be part of such a supportive community. If you have any more tips or experiences to share, I'm all ears! Thanks again!

Hi Mariusz,

Again just a personal opinion, I don't have a degree in aquariums.

Yes that's the ratio I use. Note 16:1 N😛 is not the same as 16:1 NO3😛O4. Use IFC calculator to figure it out.

Take care while reading about "over filtration" or "over planting" or benefits of keeping a suite of 12 different seachem products and a £200 pair of scissors. This nonsense is usually driven by various shops with YouTube presence.

Yes, you need more flow with co2. I am a spray bar guy, so I can almost get away without a wave maker in my "plants only tank", but if you just have one jet and some hardscape, you need help moving water around. It will help you a lot especially as your low plants are trying to establish.

Also you seem to make your water rather hard. Are you sure you need it that hard? You have very little plant mass in the tank, so as long as you dose sonething it's very unlikely you will observe nutrient deficiencies other than CO2...

If I had to bet, your floaters used up the little nitrogen you added as they draw CO2 from two sources and are directly under the light, hence they metabolize way faster + the the clogged filter/ poor flow.

There's also issues like for example you planted srepens in between two boulders. That's never going to grow well. You can put anubias there and it will be fine. You just need to figure little things out with time.

Best,
Mateusz

 

[Mariusz]

Hello, small update about my tank. After I started adding more nitrogen I overdose and end up with huge algae. As an act of desperation, I cut off the light and covered the tank for 5 days. Some plants were hurt after that step but now they are getting much better. Done some bigger water changes and add only potassium, to have the correct ratio. Currently, my water parameters after the water change were
pH 6.6
KH 3
GH 11
NO3 20
PO 0,25
K 28
Ca 50
Mg 18
I am adding daily 7,5 ml ATP3 so weekly is
NO2 7.8 ppm
PO3 3 ppm
K 13 ppm
Mg 1.75
I have a light on for 7 hours with 15 15-minute ramps at the beginning and end of the day. Power at 70%.
Still, cryptocoryne doesn't grow well it has some yellow and brown on the bottom leaves. I have some green dust algae on the rock, glass and wood. Some green spot algae on older cryptocoryne leaves and Cyperus helferi (which was suffering after cutting light. Leaves were melting some still have hols and I need to cut them off )

What do you think might be the issue? Thank you for your future answers.

 

[Mariusz]

I'm back after a long break! My aquarium took 415th place in the IAPLC2024 competition.

Later it overgrown

Since then, I've changed the layout,
but now I'm struggling with Hair algae.
I make less light, I ran out of CO2 recently but is already back on.
Water :
KH -3
PH- 6,5
GH- 6
K-20
NO3 -10
PO4- 0 in water ( in soil 0.3)
Mg -12
Ca-20
Fe- 0 (I am dosing a small amount)

Any tips on dealing with it?
Glad to be back! 🚀

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

Since then, I've changed the layout,

That looks really good. I'm a fantastic fan of ferns.

but now I'm struggling with Hair algae.

Difficult, <"manual removal"> or shrimps? ("shrimps" looks to include a number of <"non-decapod crustaceans">)

Because it is a "Green Algae" (Chlorophyta) and shares the same <"basic physiology and photosystems"> with all the higher plants (they form a clade ("share a common ancestor") <"Viridiplantae"> or <"Chlorobionta">). I think of green algae as a just another "plant".

cheers Darrel

 

[Ehcosbie]

I'm back after a long break! My aquarium took 415th place in the IAPLC2024 competition.
View attachment 226634

I really like the scape, and well done with the IAPLC result, you should be very proud. Was this the photo you submitted?

 

[Mariusz]

Yes, I sent the first photo. I think if it grew thicker the result would be better. But for the first time, it's ok.

 

[Connswater]

struggling with Hair algae

Your tank is outstanding, fantastic, wish mine looked half as good.

I struggle sometimes with hair algae, it seems to me, that in a shady tank it isn't really a problem, in a high light tank it will grow well and is almost inevitable but fast growing plants will outcompete it and if you can pull off the magic trick of getting most nutrients to the plants via their roots rather than the water column, then in theory, green filament algae should weaken, but since plants and green algae both like fertiliser in the water column and it leaches from the substrate, it is pretty much something a high light planted tank is bound to get, I have had two tanks over the last 15 years, (correction 19 years, time flies) with really fast growing plants and lots of light, and I find I get hair algae all the time, but mostly it is not problematic, small localised bits, but in late spring, with extra light pouring in to the home, it can be more of an issue. Sorry, really only empathy from me on green algae, but lots of admiration - you are a proper aquascaper. ADA are of course lean dose advocates and often their water column is as nutrient poor as most pristine unpolluted rivers. However, your tank water seems to me to be almost perfect for plant growth and certainly hitting figures that correspond to what we can realistically achieve in a well managed domestic aquarium.

Still, thanks for sharing a super tank and raising the issue, but for me perfection is a mathematical abstraction, I can enjoy beauty with a few endearing blemishes.

 

[Mariusz]

Three weeks ago I did a 5-day blackout. But the algae did not disappear and Staurogyne repens suffered from it. Some of the old leaves are covered with this algae. I started adding a four-fold dose of Easy Carbo. I intend to remove the old, heavily infected leaves. And the plants that have rotted. I have to think about setting the water outlet differently because there are places with a low flow and there I have algae. Pictures below:

 

[PARAGUAY]

Most recommend blackouts of 24_48hours probably because if longer as seems to be the case plants suffer . Generally with CO2 it's recommended along withe adequate filtration ,fertilising and good general maintenance a water change of 50% weekly, it rebalances the aquarium and helps against algae, l also treat my low energy set ups the same ,at set up plenty of stem plants, 50% water changes daily for a week or so reducing gradually to a 50% weekly, after a month or so and it seems to really avoid a lot of algae issues, usually only have 3 or 4 plant species in though.
Well done on the contest tank ,really like it

 

[Connswater]

Dear Mariusz, my original post I was going to amend, in light of Bazz putting me right, but l am basically rewriting it, sorry. I I think I was confusing your long-term indicator with a pH test, and yet you provided your pH measure and also using the phrase lime green, when green, mid-green, forest green but not dark almost purple green would be more correct.

I think, no stronger than think, you might have had, unnoticed, low or lowish CO for a while, I know you said you had run out and it is back on.

Also, blackouts in my experience damage plants more than algae, algae is 'as tough as old boots', many plants are ever so fragile.

As I am sure you know, too little CO2, with high light intensity (and your light is purple which is very efficient for photosynthesis) will mean plants will lose out in the battle with algae, once they start to decay, algae takes advantage, and the situation rapidly accelerates in the wrong direction.

Your drop checker has to be green (correction, here by me, but not lime green) for basically the entire photo period.

I don't aim for forest green in my drop checker, purple changing to dark green is just about okay for me and dark green is absolutely fine for me. Darrel will be quick to remind me, I have lost heavier bodied fish in hot weather with low O2 high CO2 when the lights have been off. In the future, I do really need to agitate the surface for some hours before lights on in hot weather, ADA, as you may know, lift and lower the lily pipe to ensure fish health), but my water is never lower than KH 8 and I don't grow some of the plant species you have and generally I don't have slow growing plants and I use a macro nutrient 'lean' approach to water column fertilisation. With a dark green/almost purple indicator and pH measured with a dip test at just above 7, I should have between 10 and 15 ppm of CO2 which is enough for my plants.

I think, and think/guess is as strongly as I can assert with any confidence, if I was you, I would try a 6 or 7 hour photo period, do a massive trim of all affected leaves, and do lots of water changes and test my water again, not with dip strips with with drop reagent tests. I also think, if your measurements are accurate you do need a little Phosphate in the water. My tanks run fine with between 0.5 and 1 ppm of Phosphate, much higher and I get algae, but plants do need Phosphate and you have ferns and moss, they simply can't get nutrients from the substrate, they have no roots. Algae will get all the nutrients they need for decaying plant leaves, and once the algae coats a leaf, they have set up a virtuous cycle for themselves.

Good luck, such a lovely tank but 'eternal vigilance' is part of our repertoire in this hobby.

 

[bazz]

If your KH is really 3, then a blue indicator suggests CO2 levels at 5 or less ppm,

With water with your KH reading, your drop checker has to be lime green for the entire photo period.

At a KH of 8 with a dark green/purple indicator I should have between 10 and 15 ppm of CO2.

This don't think this is quite right. The Indicator Solution will change colour according to the amount of CO2 that is above it in the void of the Drop Checker regardless of KH or any parameter of tank water (unless you are using tank water in the Checker). Premixed fluid is generally mixed with 4 dKH water which gives us the range that we know and work to. Advising the OP to run his tank at lime green throughput the Photoperiod could possibly cause even more problems.

 

[Connswater]

Premixed fluid is generally mixed with 4 dKH water

That's helpful and thanks, and you are very kind, not quite right is generous. Looking at my JBL printed stickers what we might call lime-green is one step too close to yellow with KH4. What I might call, with a bit more thought and squinting, forest green seems about right. I'll amend my previous post in light of your very helpful correction, and hopefully it will make sense.

 

[Riley]

Most recommend blackouts of 24_48hours probably because if longer as seems to be the case plants suffer . Generally with CO2 it's recommended along withe adequate filtration ,fertilising and good general maintenance a water change of 50% weekly, it rebalances the aquarium and helps against algae, l also treat my low energy set ups the same ,at set up plenty of stem plants, 50% water changes daily for a week or so reducing gradually to a 50% weekly, after a month or so and it seems to really avoid a lot of algae issues, usually only have 3 or 4 plant species in though.
Well done on the contest tank ,really like it

Can I ask what you treat with, I am having similar problems, I try to remove manually but it’s an uphill battle

 

[Mariusz]

The photo was taken when the CO2 was running out. Normally, it is light green. It runs for 24 hours, so I can't put in too much.
I am thinking of changing the setup anyway, just need 2 days for setting up.

Yesterday I rescaped my small nano tank for shrimp. It was running for a while but I didn't do too much with it. There was a problem because for half a year no shimps were born on it. I had 15 and only 2 left. I was doing water changes from time to time. But plants weren't growing.
There is no CO2 in that small tank. I use Controsoil Substrate on it. I also put on the bottom four root tabs.
What nutrient dosing you would do with plants like this ? :
Staurogyne repens, Microsorum trident, Cryptocoryne lucens, Eriocaulon cinereum and one pice of Micranthemum Monte Carlo.

My water :
pH=7,2
GH =7
KH=0
Ca=36
Mg=9
K=10
NO3=6
PO4= 0,7