My Aquarium Journey - Sharing Experiences and Seeking Advice

[PARAGUAY]

I think it's a case of regular maintenance, l know what you mean about difficult to remove, it may be best to consider shrimps, ottos( cannot praise they little fellows enough) snails, and juvenile Siamese Algae Eaters once a aquarium is cycled Except maybe Purigen I don't add treatments at all as the fundamental causes eg too much lighting ,too little lighting , overfeeding, fertilisers lack of w/changes, dead leafs on substrate possibly amongst other things, will not be addressed You always have algae in some way it just a natural occurance but some of the fast growers definetly make a difference. IMO

 

[PARAGUAY]

Sorry post above to @Riley question

 

[Riley]

Thanks , I can’t get shrimp just yet as I have a yo-yo loach that is not shrimp friendly, I didn’t realise at the time how big he would grow, I will just persevere with frequent water changes and good housekeeping for now, I appreciate your advice, I have been putting floating plants and hornwort to try and starve algae growth.

 

[Mariusz]

Can you tell me if these are bite wounds or some kind of disease? I only have one fish like that. She is eating normally and acts like the rest of the fish.

 

[Mariusz]

Small update, I put fish in the salt for a few hours, but a week later it died. So I decided to restart the tank that I did on the weekend. I will try to put more updates from the progress.
I wanted more open space now, so I decided to have a triangle composition. I sprinkled roots tabs under the soil and will try to keep my nutrients in the water columns low, lamp is set up on 33%. I hide a small filter that will pump water from under the sand and create a nice effect.

My fertilisation will be something like Filipe Oliveira from this movie.

(Goal Is NO3 5-10ppm, PO4 -1 , K-20)
My water parameters in day 1 was:
GH 5.6
KH 2
PH 6,2
Ca 22
Mg 8
NO3 7.5
PO4 0.75
K 16
I am thinking of adding more soil instead of sand on the front, like on the picture below, what do you think?

 

[PARAGUAY]

Sorry about the fish. I had a Barb looking very similar after getting trapped behind the internal filter, as he was moving and feeding ok ,l left him and he recovered ,Think salt treatment risky for a small tetra. Aquarium is looking good

 

[PeerUnk]

The photo was taken when the CO2 was running out. Normally, it is light green. It runs for 24 hours, so I can't put in too much.
I am thinking of changing the setup anyway, just need 2 days for setting up.

Yesterday I rescaped my small nano tank for shrimp. It was running for a while but I didn't do too much with it. There was a problem because for half a year no shimps were born on it. I had 15 and only 2 left. I was doing water changes from time to time. But plants weren't growing.
There is no CO2 in that small tank. I use Controsoil Substrate on it. I also put on the bottom four root tabs.
What nutrient dosing you would do with plants like this ? :
Staurogyne repens, Microsorum trident, Cryptocoryne lucens, Eriocaulon cinereum and one pice of Micranthemum Monte Carlo.
View attachment 226719View attachment 226720View attachment 226721View attachment 226722
My water :
pH=7,2
GH =7
KH=0
Ca=36
Mg=9
K=10
NO3=6
PO4= 0,7

Nothing wrong with those parameters. Got a non CO2 injected neocaridina tank myself, but with lower pH, which helps. Most importantly I check for CO2 depletion from halfway to end of the photosynthesis period; does pH goes up or down when I fully aerate a sample of water. If it goes down, I call it CO2 depletion, and aeration will help elevate CO2 level and therefore plant growth. When pH increases, CO2 is okay for me.

Cheers!

 

[Mariusz]

So there is some issue 🙂. I noticed that some Bucephalandra started losing leaves and melting. Also, some Microsorum have this problem. I did a water test, and NO3 increased to 10ppm, and potassium reduced to 12. In my opinion, it might be because I used my old soil, so some things go to the water column. Or its because water has new parameters and plants need to adapt. Bucephalandra don't like new tanks. Some plants still have hair algae from the previous tank setup.




Unfortunately I didn't do any water changes during the week. So on the weekend I Remove all decaying leaves, vacum gently detritus and changed 25 % of the water . I add only potassium to reduce NO3, and I add 7 ml sachem prime to help me with melting buce by detoxifying ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Hope it will help because it is my favourite plant.







Small tank looking ok after water change

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,
The damage to the Java Ferns (Microsorum pteropus) looks like drying damage, either from drying out during the tank move? or being "burned" by an <"oxidising agent"> like hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), <"sodium hypochlorite bleach or glutaraldehyde">? That could also account for the white tips on your Liverwort (Riccardia chamaedryfolia?). I don't know what the water is like in Lublin, but Java Ferns don't get on well in <"very soft"> water.

did a water test, and NO3 increased to 10ppm, and potassium reduced to 12.

The companies that sell these kits won't tell you this, but they aren't accurate. The problem <"with nitrate (NO3-)"> and <"potassium (K+)"> testing is that they don't form insoluble compounds that you can easily test for, meaning that to get a coloured compound you need to go through various stages. Personally I don't <"make decisions"> based on test kit results <"New bit of kit - MP-AES">, but entirely on the basis of plant health.

I add only potassium to reduce NO3,

You will need a complete fertiliser, your plants can only make use of the additional CO2 if none of the other <"essential nutrients are limiting growth">.

and I add 7 ml sachem prime

You should add a dechlorinator if you have a chlorinated water supply? I'm not a tap water user, or a <"fan of Seachem products">, but others can advise you, but I'm pretty sure adding extra will do more harm than good.

help me with melting buce by detoxifying ammonia, nitrite

I don't think TAN ammonia or nitrite (NO2-) are your issue, the plants will reduce levels of <"all forms of fixed nitrogen">.

and nitrate

Just don't believe what other people tell you, nitrate (NO3-) isn't toxic to fish until you get <"to very elevated levels">.

cheers Darrel

 

[Mariusz]

Hi all,
The damage to the Java Ferns (Microsorum pteropus) looks like drying damage, either from drying out during the tank move? or being "burned" by an <"oxidising agent"> like hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), <"sodium hypochlorite bleach or glutaraldehyde">? That could also account for the white tips on your Liverwort (Riccardia chamaedryfolia?). I don't know what the water is like in Lublin, but Java Ferns don't get on well in <"very soft"> water.

The companies that sell these kits won't tell you this, but they aren't accurate. The problem <"with nitrate (NO3-)"> and <"potassium (K+)"> testing is that they don't form insoluble compounds that you can easily test for, meaning that to get a coloured compound you need to go through various stages. Personally I don't <"make decisions"> based on test kit results <"New bit of kit - MP-AES">, but entirely on the basis of plant health.

You will need a complete fertiliser, your plants can only make use of the additional CO2 if none of the other <"essential nutrients are limiting growth">.

You should add a dechlorinator if you have a chlorinated water supply? I'm not a tap water user, or a <"fan of Seachem products">, but others can advise you, but I'm pretty sure adding extra will do more harm than good.

I don't think TAN ammonia or nitrite (NO2-) are your issue, the plants will reduce levels of <"all forms of fixed nitrogen">.

Just don't believe what other people tell you, nitrate (NO3-) isn't toxic to fish until you get <"to very elevated levels">.

cheers Darrel

Thank you, Darrel, for your opinion, Java Ferns was in a closed bin bag for 2 days, so it might be it. I am more worried for bucephalandra. My water is from RO because in the building where I am living, they are adding salts to remove hardness, but it is not ok for an aquarium, so I have to do it on my own TDS is 160. I put Microsorum plants before planting in potassium permanganate 10mg in 1 litre for 10 minutes. And in citric acid 10g for 1 litre for 30 minutes. I have done it in the past and that time was ok. Because I didn't cover my soil with any new one, I was afraid that there is a lot of stuff released to the water column, that is why I used Seachem when I saw melting leaves. Normally I have it only to remove chlorine after bleach. And I am not afraid NO3 just wanted to keep it below 10, so after replacing 25% of water, it should go down to 7,5 unless Seachem will do some mess. I don't want to mess to much with water so plants can adapt and start growing. During the week, I might add a small dose of fertiliser. I just want to know what and how much my plants need.

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

Java Ferns was in a closed bin bag for 2 days, so it might be it.

Possibly, but probably only if they got hot, or dried out?

. My water is from RO because in the building where I am living, they are adding salts to remove hardness, but it is not ok for an aquarium,

I know the feeling, we have water softener as well and it gets <"through a lot of salt (NaCl)">.

so I have to do it on my own TDS is 160.

Not that then. What salts do you add?

The damage to the Java Ferns (Microsorum pteropus) looks like drying damage, either from drying out during the tank move? or being "burned" by an <"oxidising agent"> like hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), <"sodium hypochlorite bleach or glutaraldehyde">?

I put Microsorum plants before planting in potassium permanganate 10mg in 1 litre for 10 minutes. And in citric acid 10g for 1 litre for 30 minutes. I have done it in the past and that time was ok.

OK I'm pretty sure that is the answer, either / both the potassium permanganate (KMnO4) (an oxidising agent) or the citric acid (C6H8O7) (a weak acid). I think that accounts for the damage to the Bucephalandra and Java Fern. <"Fizzy (carbonated) water"> would be a lot safer, although personally I think that the "cure" is almost always worse than the "problem" in these cases.

Because it was "chemical damage" the plants should recover as long as their <"rhizomes are intact">.

I might add a small dose of fertiliser.

Which fertiliser? They aren't all the same, and many "Aquarium Fertilisers" <"aren't really fertilisers">.

Unfortunately <"lack of honesty"> is a very common theme with the sellers of <"aquarium"> products. What ever ADA may tell you their products <"aren't really fertilisers">, they are the <"world's most expensive water">.

I just want to know what and how much my plants need.

I use the Duckweed Index <"What is the “Duckweed Index” all about?">, but you can use a <"fraction of Estimative Index (EI) dosing">.

cheers Darrel

 

[Mariusz]

Not that then. What salts do you add?

Which fertiliser? They aren't all the same, and many "Aquarium Fertilisers"

So for my RO water, I am adding Calcium and Magnesium from Qual drop GH+ I also got micros and Fe from them. And for fertilizing I use dry salts now those ones KNO3, KH2PO4,K2SO4, MgSO4x7H2O.