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Low-tech aquarium...Update

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Troi said:
Wow that's looking amazing, health plants and happy fish, I think you've found the magic balance. Those swords are incredible. Could you post a list of the plants that have done well, it will be very useful to all of us with soil aquariums.
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I have a couple of different species of amazon swords, I'm not sure which species but the ones with the sword shaped leaves seem to do better than the ones with the more oval shaped leaves, I don't know if that narrows it down as they tend to become more sword shaped when submerged and more oval when they're out of the water (a lot of them have been grown above water when you buy them). I've had those plants probably a couple of years and they already looked good when they went in. I had been growing them in pots in miracle grow but after a while they didn't do well and started shrinking. once I started adding ferts (EI plus liquid carbon) they really took off and did well so that's what I'm adding again in here (about half dose). I'm not sticking strictly to EI, I added half dose of ferts after a water change but haven't done a water change for a couple of weeks and don't plant to do it them that often as its quite under stocked.
I also have crytocoryne wendtii which is looking healthy but hasn't grown much yet, the tank hasn't been set up long and it was completely coated with brown algae for a while.
I also have water sprite & water lettuce floating, I used to think they would only grow if i used soft water but they're doing fine with my GH11 tap water, there's an anubias plant sat on a piece of bog wood which is growing well now that its not getting chewed down by fish and not covered in BBA. Mexican oakleaf - I bought this as it was said to do well in hard water and be one of the fastest growing aquatic plants - i've found it grows quite thin and weedy but its looking a lot greener in this tank, it does grow bibber when it reaches the surface.
I have Cardamine Lyrata / Japanese Cress - i read that it was easy to grow, i've had it quite a long time in the other tank and it has survived but not really grown (cat litter substrate, EI dosing), it seems to be doing better in here presumable due to the liquid carbon and better nw that the otos have eaten the brown algae. Rotala rotundifolia is doing quite well but a bit tall and weedy, maybe I need more light?
My hygrophila corymbosa is struggling a bit, I had some in my other tank with just cat litter and it did ok but the roots rotted, in my other dirted tank the roots rotted quickly
I have a few other little bits and pieces but it's a bit early to say how they're doing. I'm going to move my star grass into here, it did well for a while just in cat litter with EI but its struggling now, I think the fish have attacked it.

This guy is into dirt tanks
http://www.youtube.com/user/Dustinsfish ... ture=watch

He's set a forum/website too - fishtanktv.com it has chatroom and places to post pics videos, and talk about dirt tanks and the hobby in general.
 
I assume you only plant into the sand layer and not into the soil layer? or is it fine to push down into the soil layer for larger rooted plants
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Hi, in the tanks without a gravel tidy I push the plant roots through the gravel cap and in to the soil below, that is if they have long enough roots of course. However, in a tank with a gravel tidy it is only possible to plant them in to the gravel layer.

Nevertheless, they will naturally (and very quickly) extend their roots through the gravel tidy's mesh and in to the soil below stimulated by the directional pull of gravity, it's called geotropism. Once they become established in the soil they will continue to grow, as Foxfish has said, and start to travel along the bottom of the tank possibly following a concentration gradient of nutrients.

The roots of so called big root feeders such as Amazon swords and cryptocorynes, for instance, will quickly spread to cover a large area.
 
I have a couple of different species of amazon swords, I'm not sure which species but the ones with the sword shaped leaves seem to do better than the ones with the more oval shaped leaves, I don't know if that narrows it down as they tend to become more sword shaped when submerged and more oval when they're out of the water (a lot of them have been grown above water when you buy them). I've had those plants probably a couple of years and they already looked good when they went in. I had been growing them in pots in miracle grow but after a while they didn't do well and started shrinking. once I started adding ferts (EI plus liquid carbon) they really took off and did well so that's what I'm adding again in here (about half dose). I'm not sticking strictly to EI, I added half dose of ferts after a water change but haven't done a water change for a couple of weeks and don't plant to do it them that often as its quite under stocked.
I also have crytocoryne wendtii which is looking healthy but hasn't grown much yet, the tank hasn't been set up long and it was completely coated with brown algae for a while.
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It all sounds great, I am doing something similar with ferts but without the organic carbon, and with regular and big water changes - 30-50% twice a week. So far results are good.

Before that in the other tank, which I have since dismantled, I was just using soil and the big root feeders did exceptionally well, for instance Cryptocoryne wendtii Tropica went berserk and grew to around 25 cm in height; it's only supposed to reach 10cm max. It also grew very densely and given time I am sure it would even have out competed the Amazon swords.

I think Tom Barr is right soil adds something else which greatly benefits plants and aquarium health in general even when using eutrophic fert dosing and CO2; it's always been my belief too.
 
after I've finished messing around with getting the 1000l tank sorted I'm going to attempt a soil based tank in one of the little 60l tanks I think. see how it goes and tear down the cat litter tank as after 6 months I'm still not happy with it just gotta work out how to catch the shrimp.
 
My Amano shrimps are partial to algae wafers, brings them out of hiding every time, they get so preoccupied with gorging themselves they are easier to catch...famous last words. Let me know how you get on.
 
A dumb question here please. Can I use a three month old Aqua Soil Amazonia mixed with 10% Sphagnum Moss Peat capped with an 1.5 inches of 3 mm sized sand like inert gravel to acheive the same effect?
 
A dumb question here please. Can I use a three month old Aqua Soil Amazonia mixed with 10% Sphagnum Moss Peat capped with an 1.5 inches of 3 mm sized sand like inert gravel to acheive the same effect?
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It's not a dumb question - I don't see why not; it's always good to experiment and both are safe for use in an aquarium. I have just set up two tanks using 50% aquatic compost and 50% Sphagnum Moss Peat; so far so good.

The Amazonia will already have gone through the mineralisation process, and the colonies of beneficial bacteria will greatly aid the mineralisation of the organic matter in the relatively small percentage of peat. It would be interesting to know whether you get any increases in water column ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, and to what degree, during the initial set up phase.

However, the actual recommended percentage of peat used probably depends on whether you intend to use ferts and/or CO2. If you don't intend to use either I would up the percentage of peat to around 50% to be on the safe side, since peat will tend to help long term nutrient retention particularly under a sand cap, but equally you could be fine with just 10% especially If you intend to use ferts. You're kind of on uncharted territory as far as I am concerned.

Watch the thickness of your sand cap, the thicker it is the less water circulation and nutrient transference from the water column and the greater the possibility of your soil layer becoming too anaerobic to support vigorous plant growth.
 
The aqua soil isn't fresh off the bag. I had previously used it in my old high tech tank for about 2 months. I had initially set up the tank to see if I could grow plants using co2. So the soil has already been cycled I think & I had dried it & kept it stored for future use. 🙂

I would love to give your method a try & yeah,...I guess it would be nice to have a tank where you don't need to add ferts or co2 & yet have such a healthy growth as yours.

The water in my area is actually soft ,...as its surrounded by paddy fields.

I fear that by adding 50% of peat into my substrate mix it might turn things around against me.

So the peat should form the bottom most layer of the substrate,..on top of which lies the aqua soil which would then be capped with an inch of sand cap?

Another question please,... Should the peat be pre soaked or pre boiled prior to placing it into the aquarium?
 
Hi most likely the Amazonia has undergone mineralisation, but the colonies of beneficial bacteria may well be absent since it has been dried and stored. The fresh peat will have to undergo mineralisation so it will be likely that some ammonia will be given off.

Cycling a tank is a different matter check this out http://ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f= ... 82#p198182 hopefully all will become clear.

You are right to be cautious regarding the use of peat in soft water areas; it's always better to err on the side of caution.

With regards layering the peat I would just mix it together with the Amazonia in to one homogeneous soil, failing that I'd layer the peat on top of the Amazonia, since it will probably form a better medium for the oxidised microzone, although a clay based soil like Amazonia could also prove effective.

You can soak the peat before hand if you want to, this will allow mineralisation to occur before you place it in the aquarium. However, I would place it directly in the tank since the ammonia given off will help cycle your tank.
 
Troi said:
Hi Stan
Tights might rot depending on what they are made of, it they are 100% nylon, then I guess no worries. Nevertheless, you can pick up specially made filter media bags on eBay for a couple of quid. I usually just use the amount of peat that would comfortably replace charcoal in the filter.
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Troi,...I hate to be asking simple questions here but I haven't used peat before. Should I pre-boil the peat for 30 minutes or so before placing it in the filter or can i just toss it in there 😳 ? My tap water is on the soft side maybe around 6.6 - 6.8

This is exciting. If it wasn't for UKAPS I would have given up on aquatic gardening last year but I learned how to "read" the plants and my high tech tank with the help given to me by the UKAPS members. I've always liked the low tech approach too.
 
Hi faizal

It's ok to just toss in the filter, in a filter media bag of course, and use as is. Although I tend to use the amount that would comfortably replace charcoal, it does, after a while, tend to turn your tank water the colour of tea if there is too much and you don't do regular water changes. I don't think you need too much to derive the benefits of DOC and humic substances, so I think that the quantity used really depends on personal preference as to the degree of amber tinge you find attractive.

As for your pH I doubt that a small amount of peat has the ability to drastically alter it, or water hardness for that matter, IME these parameters are usually quite robust especially when they are as near as damn it neutral.
 
Hi Troi, Just came across your thread yesterday. Very nice!
I'm now looking to start my nano tank with this soil based substrate, while looking for everything I need for it i came across this.
http://www.diy.com/nav/garden/grow-...tilisers/B-and-Q-Aquatic-Compost-20L-10288072
it contains sterilised loam, grit and peat. I popped down to a local B&Q just to have a quick peek it says on the bag there is approx 43% peat but does not give a percentage on the loam and grit. It is fertiliser free so it only contains the loam, grit and peat so will it be ok with fish? Have you come across this before or even used it?

Paul.
 
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