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Low-tech aquarium...Update

Re: Low-tech aquarium

What is the reason for using john Innes no3 and not just soil from the garden? I know there could be potential risks with garden soil being contaminated with fertilizer etc but if you know its not had any fertilizer then wouldn't it be better to use garden soil?
Its just that I've used soil bought from garden centers in outdoor planters and the plants hardly grew at all but when using soil from the garden they grow well.

Stan…in principle there is absolutely nothing wrong with using garden soil in an aquarium as a medium for plants. However, it does entail certain risks. You are right they may contain substances that could prove toxic to aquatic life.

However, soils behave differently when they are submerged and usually this just means that sometimes they don’t work very well as an aquatic planting substrate; even though they work perfectly well in your garden. Also, for instance, certain soils can cause metal toxicity or long-term turbidity depending on their composition and local water chemistry. But in short, the fertility of a submerged soil does not necessarily guarantee vigorous growth, in many cases it is the least toxic soil which provides the best growing conditions.

The advantage of using proprietary brands like John Innes is that they are guaranteed to be of consistent composition, and have been tried and tested and proven to be safe and work well as submerged substrates. This, in no small measure, is also due to their relatively high cation exchange capacity, which means that they have the ability to hold nutrients in a form plants can easily utilize.

However, there is nothing stopping you experimenting with your soil. You could use 2 litre drinks bottles one containing submerged John Innes, for instance, and another garden soil to compare growth rates of the same aquatic plant species. Obviously all other variables would have to be the same, so that you could be sure that any difference in growth rate is down to the soil alone. Whilst you are at it you could also keep an eye on water chemistry to determine if any toxic substances leach out; that is if you have access to the necessary test kits. But there is no need to be too scientific about it; you should get a good idea how well your soil works by observation alone.
 
Re: Low-tech aquarium

I must say between this post and your blog I am truly inspired, reason for joining this forum was to find out more about setting up such an aquarium as the ones you have troi, and this has definitely answered a lot of questions(great blog) and given me the confidence to go ahead and know it works. The high tehc route wasn't really an option and to be honest didnt interest me, the Walstad did and this is quite simply the same principles, thank you

Expect possible Pm's in the future, I have few more questions but this has given me the kick start needed

Christor..thanks for your kind words, I am only too pleased to be of service. Don't hesitate to ask if you have any future queries.

Troi
 
Re: Low-tech aquarium

I filled the tank with water from a tank that I do EI doising on, I admit I don't keep up with the water change, i tend to do EI dosing for a week and then another week without adding anything before I get round to the 50% water change as I dont get the time. The plants in the other tank (the one I got the water from) don't grow much so I doubt they will absorb that much neutrients plus I feed the fish daily but only a couple of small cubes of cyclops, I have some krib fry in their at the moment.
Anyway I've just measured the nitrate level in the newly set up tank using an API test kit and its at the top of the scale at about 160ppm, in the tank that the water came from its at the top of the scale 160ppm. if the test kit is anything to go by I have too many fish with 2 kribs, 6 fry, and about 20 small live bearers in a 5'x24"x18" tank, i dont know?

Stan...I don't think your stock levels have much to do with the high nitrate levels in either tank, it sounds like it's to do with your nutrient dosing regime. I would do a significant water change to get the nitrate concentration down to a more acceptable level. I also densely plant my newly set up tanks from the outset and add floating plants, the latter at least, rapidly remove excess nutrients. Dense planting also helps to prevent the potential problems that can occur in the first few weeks, or so, of submerging a soil.
 
Re: Low-tech aquarium

I've just double checked my dose:
I made up made up 31 g of KNO3 in 1000 g of solution and added 150g on days 1,3 5 so added 14 g of KNO3 which is 61% Nitrate.
My tank is 5'x2'x18", I measure the water depth at 20" excluding substrate so comes to 330 liters water.
14 x 0.61 x 1000/330 = 26 ppm Nitrate

Readying what people have said about test kits on here I should throw it in the bin and not worry, anyway the krib and endler fry are growing well so things must be ok, I was told my plants look deficient in nitrate though so who knows what the nitrate really is? I'll do a water change probably tomorrow and continue adding the ferts. I've read opinions that its not the actual nitrate that harms fish but more a case that when you get to a point when nitrate has built up then other nasties will have built up and its these that do the harm. I haven's seen any experimental evidence to prove any of these theories though.

The tank I took the water from had the same nitrate reading and doesn't have any soil, just cat litter substrate so its not coming from the soil.
 
Re: Low-tech aquarium

The tank I took the water from had the same nitrate reading and doesn't have any soil, just cat litter substrate so its not coming from the soil.

Well that's something positive at least.
 
Re: Low-tech aquarium

Looks really nice, v lush for low tech. I wish my hi tech looked this healthy
 
Re: Low-tech aquarium

I filled it to about 4" with the hose onto a plate to minimise disturbance, it was a little bit dirty so I syphoned it empty and then refilled to the top. It was pretty much clear. I ran the filters and it was totally clear the next day.
 
Re: Low-tech aquarium

How long does water in a soil tank take to settle? Mines taking forever!

Hi what soil substrate are you using and what is it capped with?
 
Re: Low-tech aquarium

soil1.jpg


The latest images. Just over 3 months since the tank was first set up the planting has gone through a few changes, several of the plant species have thrived but one or two species have not done so well for various reasons and I've been pretty quick to get rid of them. These include Pogostemon helferi, and Hydrocotyle verticillata; but in fairness I don't think they had chance to get their roots established since I moved them way too often.

Myriophhyllum mattogrossense did ok but it wasn't exactly thriving so it had to go; I think it might have benefited from additional ferts dosing. And finally I started with a low energy standard Anubias barteri var. nana, but that rotted at the rhizome crown almost immediately. I have since read elsewhere in the forum that it could be to do with a bacterial infection. I am inclined to agree since it was attached to bog wood at the time, and it was also purchased from the same chain store as some of the others that rotted.

soil2.jpg


Plants that have done particularly well are Lilaeopsis brasiliensis; despite not really establishing their roots they keep sending out runners with loads of plantlets. The big root feeders have also done exceptionally well, these include Cryptocoryne wendtii 'Torpica', E bleheri, and V spiralis, the latter must be growing a couple of cms a day; but no real suprises there given my relatively hard water conditions. Ceratopteris cornuta, and Eleocharis parvula have both grown ok as have V. americana, Hygrophila sp, and Bacopa sp. And the old faithfuls Microsorium pteropus and Vesicularia dubyana just keep plugging away no matter what.

Interestingly though the floating plant Salvinia auriculata which showed rampant growth when the tank was first set up has almost died back completely and those plants that remain are small and pale. Perhaps a sign that the aquarium water is oligotrophic.

soil3.jpg


Meanwhile the 50% light reduction seems to have worked and the algae that threatened to sweep in from the wings has subsided almost completely; just a little fuzz and a few green spots that have persisted from before on some of the older plant leaves. Water is crystal clear, and water chemistry perfect and stable. And the fish have gone native on me, and my otos have spawned; I hope it's because they think they're back in a small tributary of the Amazon river.

 
It's looking really good.
I'm just doing a water change on the 5'x2'x2', I can't remember if I mentioned it before but I used 40% peat, 40% organic choice miracle grow & 20% soil from the garden, I also added 1 part grit to 9 parts soil, I used your recommended gardman greenhouse shading and topped with tesco cat litter. I've got quite a bit of brown algae but i'm blaming that on lack of water changes and too much light, its not growing on the plants underneath the water sprite so shows that less light will help. I've already added 3 fish and they all look happy especially with all that space. I''m just considering filtering through peat to see if it will help keep the algae under control. I was thinking I could put peat into some old tights and put it the external filter I have a big sack of westland irish moss peat i can use. do you have any idea of how much I should add, its aprrox 100 gallon tank?
 
Hi Stan
Tights might rot depending on what they are made of, it they are 100% nylon, then I guess no worries. Nevertheless, you can pick up specially made filter media bags on eBay for a couple of quid. I usually just use the amount of peat that would comfortably replace charcoal in the filter. But in a tank your size I'm guessing maybe about quarter to half a litre of peat would be a good place to start. You can experiment form there. The tannin released from the peat will tint the water an amber colour, you can adjust the amount of peat to suit your own preference, deep or light tint etc. I usually change the peat every month or two. Regardless, the humic substances released might help with the algae, but have you seen this site http://www.aquariumalgae.blogspot.com it might help also.
Kindest Troi
 
Hi Troi
Sorry to keep you waiting so long. I did a big water change of about 80% and have been adding excel, I still haven't got round to cleaning the filter & adding peat though. I reduced the lighting period and moved my pair of bristle noses in. They munched through most of the brown algae in no time but didn't manage to clean the delicate leafs so i added 3 otos and its all now looking nice and clean. Here's a quick clip, I have some more fish in there, see the clip for details.

http://youtu.be/fScw_IKtPGc
 
Wow that's looking amazing, health plants and happy fish, I think you've found the magic balance. Those swords are incredible. Could you post a list of the plants that have done well, it will be very useful to all of us with soil aquariums.
 
what have you capped your soil with I'm considering using some soil in one of my smaller tanks but need something to cap it.

also have you tried a combined soil + co2 setup yet?
 
Hi i have capped my soil with 3mm pool sand, but I have also used a gravel tidy/soil retainer in between the two to prevent disturbing the soil during aquascaping. Its all in the tutorial.

I haven't tried with CO2 yet but I am experimenting with dosing a new soil setup with ferts according to Tom Barr's recommendations. Again a brief discussion of using ferts and CO2 is included in the tutorial. But there is no reason why it shouldn't work as well if not better than the usual higher energy setup, it may even be more energy efficient.
 
reason I asked is I've just liberated 4x 2kg fe's from work and I already have a low light easy carbo + ei tank up and running which I want to shut down and get rid of. So the plan is to do up the slightly bigger tank with some soil and sand etc.
I assume you only plant into the sand layer and not into the soil layer? or is it fine to push down into the soil layer for larger rooted plants
 
I use soil & gas & have done so for many years.
I have never used any form of barrier between the soil & the capping as I find the plant roots like to penetrate as far as they can & then start to travel along the bottom.
In my latest set up I have 100mm of soil mix capped with 10mm of fine gravel although I would not recommend people cove the whole base with that sort of depth.
 
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