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Lean dosing pros and cons

Hi @eminor,
There was a topic about water parameters in famous rivers like Brazil etc, the amount of nutrients was incredibly low, nothing like ei, even lower than some lean dosing example here
Yes, you might be thinking of this thread on amazon water types vs natural fertilizer levels. In many ways it was an eye-opener for me - there are many good insights in the thread, but we have to be careful when extrapolating between natural habitats and our glass boxes, but it is indeed very interesting.

Cheers,
Michael
 
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This is my perspective based on observation and Experiments. High Lights, Med-Low Co2, Low Nutrients, fast plant growth, less algae.
Happi in my opinion your mistake is that you extrapolate your observation to the entire hobby. I can point out and know many of the best and most famous plant growers in the world who observe different results. And I personally know people who have very successful tanks with high macros, low macros, high micros, low micros, low/no CO2, nosebleed levels high CO2, inert substrate, active substrate, NO3: P04 ratios at 10:1, 5:1 and 2:1, NO3 :K ratios at 1:2, 2:2, and 3:2, soft water hard water, low dKH/high dKH, N source NO3, Urea, Ammonium Nitrate...........etc. etc.

There is no one way for success. Each tank is a unique bio system. The reliance on ratios and nutrient tunnel vision does not help the average aquarist. There are far more important things to be focused on.

100's /1,000's of people have followed my friend Tom Barrs methods with great success. The same for my friend Xiaozhaung Wong. These are solid methods that are repeatable in the hobby. If you get to know them, they place much less emphasis on nutrient levels than anyone would believe. Their approach is more holistic on a tank by tank basis. And while not sexy, the thing we discuss the most is maintenance and horticulture. If you get those right, you have a lot of leeway with everything else.

Now as to your method very few people that I know have successful algae free tanks with high light, low dosing, and low CO2. It has not proven to be repeatable on a large scale. And I know a lot of people in the hobby, from all over the world. However I do believe it's possible and you get the results you claim. The thing is it's not the only way.

In a similar theme my friend Sudipta just started his journal here about his non-CO2 high light which is fascinating. But again the tricky thing about his method is to determine if it is repeatable. That is, can someone follow that method and reasonably expect to get the same/similar results. So far the answer is no. One or two people demonstrating success with a method means little. And again Sudipta is my friend and I follow his journey with great interest. If more people could duplicate this success it would be much more compelling to the hobby. But so far it's an outlier.

So my thought in general is that if you have developed a method that works for you, that is a good thing. But to disparage others who enjoy great success but do not share your beliefs is narrow minded. There are many, many ways to have a successful planted tank. And there are many, many very successful planted tankers all over the world that use different methods than yours. Their success is not less valid than yours.
 
Happi in my opinion your mistake is that you extrapolate your observation to the entire hobby.

Hi @GreggZ Fascinating post. I am not entirely sure that @Happi is trying to extrapolate across the entire hobby (correct me if I am wrong @Happi)... I always felt that he was trying to drive home the point that there are alternative ways to achieve great results - a conversation that's been somewhat absent in the short amount of time I've been a member here - and trying to go up against "dogmas" (or "myths" as the combatants call it, when the discussions gets heated)... For me Happi's and recently @Sudipta input is a shot in the arm.... we are not going to make much progress by embracing the status quo... But otherwise I agree with your thoughtful post - many roads leads to Rome and thats how its always been and always going to be... And I certainly agree that hobbyists that do not wish to be on the bleeding edge of alternative or experimental approaches can find plenty of almost bulletproof approaches prescribed by Barr and his followers (which includes me btw) and that is all fine.

Cheers,
Michael
 
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@MichaelJ
That is correct, am not saying that you cannot grow plants in lean or high dosing, I already demonstrated that with various pictures under all kinds of dosing approaches. Where you can see both good and bad.

The main purpose of this thread was, can you grow plants with lean dosing and the answer is Yes, some people were worried that they will get algae if they didn't lower their light or keep the co2 high, I demonstrated that is not the case and you can run high light with low nutrients and low co2, no problem. Far as the algae goes it was also demonstrated in some of those pictures and posts.

Take plantnoobdude setup for example, he was struggling to grow plants but after some tweaks he saw the improvement, he mainly changed his dosing approach. He just recently changed his soil and he might have some algae as well but he is doing much better. My advice to him was that he is not obligated to dose how I dose my tank, he can tweak and adjust the nutrients as he wish to achieve his goals. One of His goals were to reduce the water changes and maintain low TDS and he seems to understand how to get their.

I notice that people are talking about KH again, it was already covered in multiple threads that the lower KH is best for plants, almost 0.
 
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Hi all,
former Beano and Dandy reader here too
Same for me, but a while ago.
......... Many years ago, I couldn't wait for Tuesdays. Tuesdays were the day the Beano came out, and I got to find out what Dennis The Menace had been up to. A few years later it was Saturdays, and 2000AD. Judge Dredd and The Strontium Dogs. Now we live in age of instant gratification, and I put my feet up every evening with a cup of tea and catch up with the latest instalments of the Lean Dosing thread.....
What more could any-one wish for than a <"life well lived">?
ow KH is essential though - the higher the contents of CO3 the more the water will resist change to pH and be more inclined to creep back toward the equilibrium. Things did not change much for me even with the botanicals before I got my KH down to the 2 KH range - right now I am at ~1 KH. Now, the tannins worried me a little bit as well initially but in my experience, to wind the pH down from the 7.2-7.4 range down to ~6.2
Yes, <"botanicals" will only work"> if you have very low levels of dKH.

cheers Darrel
 
Hi @GreggZ Fascinating post. I am not entirely sure that @Happi is trying to extrapolate across the entire hobby (correct me if I am wrong @Happi)... I always felt that he was trying to drive home the point that there are alternative ways to achieve great results - a conversation that's been somewhat absent in the short amount of time I've been a member here - and trying to go up against "dogmas" (or "myths" as the combatants call it, when the discussions gets heated)... For me Happi's and recently @Sudipta input is a shot in the arm.... we are not going to make much progress by embracing the status quo... But otherwise I agree with your thoughtful post - many roads leads to Rome and thats how its always been and always going to be... And I certainly agree that hobbyists that do not wish to be on the bleeding edge of alternative or experimental approaches can find plenty of almost bulletproof approaches prescribed by Barr and his followers (which includes me btw) and that is all fine.

Cheers,
Michael
Michael I agree most of this discussion is best for the cutting edge and folks who really know what they are doing. And that was kind of my point about extrapolating this across the entire hobby.

Let me expand on that.

When I say it's difficult to extrapolate that across the entire hobby, what I am referring to is questioning whether this is a method that can be reliably be followed by a wide group of people and can they expect to have similar results. In my opinion so far the answer is no. And I'm not doubting Happi's observation of his own tanks. But one or two people having success with a method tends to be an outlier. It's very interesting as like you said it's experimental and on the cutting edge. But in terms of the broader hobby I think you need to be careful.

As an example I have hundreds of friends in the hobby and hundreds of people who have reached out to me about their tanks over the years. A typical problem might be someone who is blasting very high light, has poor CO2 levels, and is dosing very lean. And they have a serious algae farm.

In some cases they are getting advice from a local fish store that is telling them that nutrients cause algae and they should starve algae to death. Or they even suggest something like a PO4 remover as they they tell them that the main cause of algae is too much PO4. Myths. Or they have read they need to limit NO3 to bring out reds, but they don't really understand what an N limited tank means. So they have a tank full of plants that are being driven hard and are starving for nutrients and CO2. Those starving plants are a magnet for algae.

Most times turning down the light, turning up the CO2, and dosing more nutrients brings their tank into balance. Plants are getting what they need and suddenly they start growing in healthy form. Pretty soon algae starts disappearing and the tank is on it's way to being successful. In general I have seen more algae as the result of under dosing not over dosing. No question about that to me over many, many years.

Now take that to the broader discussion of rich vs. lean dosing. First you need to define them. Standard EI dosing is NO3: PO4: K at 22:4:22 weekly. Buy very, very few successful people I know dose at that level. I dose at 12:4:15. Xiaozhaung's APT Complete is 6:2.8:16. But keep in mind that is for your average tank, not a very high light tank full of fast growing flowery stems. Also note K is almost 3 times NO3. And that mix is being used successfully and being sold in the tens of thousands of bottles. APT EI is at 15:4.5:14. Less than standard EI but still pretty high PO4. It would interest people to know that Tom Barr does not currently dose EI levels. It's something less. The point is today's "rich" dosing is not EI levels and is not terribly rich in the scheme of things.

And I could go on and on. Happi mentioned Merian Sterian and quoted him. What he left out is that Merian doses 5 x the daily dose right after a water change to bring nutrient levels back up. He believes in keeping nutrient levels stable which is something I also subscribe to. But his dosing is not what I would call lean when you add it all up.

The Vin Kutty rotala kill tank experiments are extremely interesting. Very rich soil and very low to no dosing. Works very well on some species. And it kills others. If you ask Vin how he doses his Dutch tank, it's with good nutrient levels in the water column. We were discussing this just the other day. He said that every time his dosing gets too low in that tank it declines, and when he increases dosing and it recovers.

So in the end I find the discussion interesting, and it is something to be explored. Can it be suggested to the masses and help them in their planted tank journey. My opinion is no. But again this only my opinion. Even in the example above where someone mentioned some improvement from dosing leaner, that person also just recently changed their soil. That will have a far greater impact than dosing and tanks with fresh soil need little dosing (other than PO4).
 
So in the end I find the discussion interesting, and it is something to be explored. Can it be suggested to the masses and help them in their planted tank journey. My opinion is no. But again this only my opinion. Even in the example above where someone mentioned some improvement from dosing leaner, that person also just recently changed their soil. That will have a far greater impact than dosing and tanks with fresh soil need little dosing (other than PO4).
the benefits I noticed even before changing soil.
post #261, #309 , #338, #341
is where I show photos before i used new soil.
 
the benefits I noticed even before changing soil.
post #261, #309 , #338, #341
is where I show photos before i used new soil.
Don't get me wrong. I don't doubt your observations.

Wallachii has never been known to do well in rich conditions and does better in lean water column. Just saying no surprise there.

Myself and many others have been growing Macranda Variegated well in richer conditions with NO3 dosing for many, many years.

Here is it at about 25 ppm NO3 in the water column from KNO3.

20200507_144233.jpg

I am glad you have seen improvements. It's also been a very short period of time to really understand the effects of changes that you have made.

And sometimes we assign causal effect where this is none. The premise Urea + Macranda Variegated = better health. I can point you to dozens of folks who would say makes no difference.

But again all in all this is still an interesting discussion and I will continue to follow along. I'm still not sold on how it can be implemented across the broader hobby, but heck I am been wrong before. Keep at it and keep the updates coming.
 
And I could go on and on. Happi mentioned Merian Sterian and quoted him. What he left out is that Merian doses 5 x the daily dose right after a water change to bring nutrient levels back up. He believes in keeping nutrient levels stable which is something I also subscribe to. But his dosing is not what I would call lean when you add it all up.
This is something that was commented on very privately, and its system was debated, although little information was given about it, they are very selective and private methods
 
Hi all,
In some cases they are getting advice from a local fish store that is telling them that nutrients cause algae and they should starve algae to death. Or they even suggest something like a PO4 remover as they they tell them that the main cause of algae is too much PO4. Myths. Or they have read they need to limit NO3 to bring out reds, but they don't really understand what an N limited tank means. So they have a tank full of plants that are being driven hard and are starving for nutrients and CO2. Those starving plants are a magnet for algae.
I think that is probably fair comment. For me the most important thing is a <"reasonable plant mass in active growth">. Once you have that, <"as an under-pinning">, everything else tends to fall into place. Personally I'm really interested in the <"probable, not the possible"> and I'm not particularly interested in growing more difficult plants etc.

If I had a sudden desire to grow "trickier" plants, I'd look at the techniques used by @Geoffrey Rea and @Roland etc, because they are <"obviously pretty successful">.

cheers Darrel
 
Michael I agree most of this discussion is best for the cutting edge and folks who really know what they are doing. And that was kind of my point about extrapolating this across the entire hobby.

Let me expand on that.

When I say it's difficult to extrapolate that across the entire hobby, what I am referring to is questioning whether this is a method that can be reliably be followed by a wide group of people and can they expect to have similar results. In my opinion so far the answer is no. And I'm not doubting Happi's observation of his own tanks. But one or two people having success with a method tends to be an outlier. It's very interesting as like you said it's experimental and on the cutting edge. But in terms of the broader hobby I think you need to be careful.

Hi @GreggZ I agree. The Lean-highlight-lowCO2 approach is not a mainstream approach and whether it will ever be is doubtful, but fascinating nevertheless. If you just look at some of the prerequisites (correct me if I am wrong):

  • Rich substrate: Expensive - but probably the least of the hurdles, unless you have to switch it out.
  • Low KH/pH making RO/DI almost mandatory: Costly, elaborate and impractical for many.
  • low(er) temperature: Excluding a lot of livestock that prefer warmer waters. (and may require a chiller in warmer climates)
  • Finely tuned and specialized fertilization: Requiring quite a bit of insights, and possibly lots of experimentations to get it just right. This is probably where most hobbyists will take a pass.

The practical advice given by many (including myself) on this forum, in addition to stable conditions and proper maintenance, is very much in line with derivations of the EI approach; provide enough ("rich") of everything in terms of NPK and traces and you don't have to worry about fertilizers or water parameters. If you get that down, and provide enough flow/circulation to make sure nutrient distribution is up to par and make sure your light intensity is in line with stable nutrients/CO2 availability (whether you inject or not..) you wont go wrong. I still have to see a convincing case where all these conditions are met over time and the hobbyist still struggles with algae or poor plant health. In a tank like this, it generally doesn't matter to your plants (except for certain picky soft-water species) what the water parameters (KH/GH/pH) are. It's a very straight forward approach in my opinion and its been working wonderfully for me in the past and so many others around here. To me there is no conflict here; we have to make a distinction between what is technically possible for the folks among us who are ready to make the commitment (to the lean-highlight-lowCO2 approach or other experimental approaches) , and what is practical for most folks in the hobby who are not.

Cheers,
Michael
 
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This is something that was commented on very privately, and its system was debated, although little information was given about it, they are very selective and private methods
I have spoken about this with Marian and he posted it publicly on several FB groups. When he mentioned it, it became a topic of discussion. It has to do with what happens when you perform a water change. Remove 50% of your water and you have removed 50% of your nutrients. Some sensitive plants don't react well to the sudden drop in nutrients. They prefer very stable conditions.

This is something that has been discussed for years now. Xiaozhaung talks about stability regularly. One mistake people make is to create sudden changes in the system. Plants are very adaptable, but once they settle in with a set of parameters they don't like large sudden changes. It takes time for them to adjust and many times folks don't have the patience to let that happen. So they change things again, then change things again, and the plants never get into a rhythm.

It's why I started front end loading all of my macro nutrients right after a water change many years ago. It keeps nutrient levels as stable as possible. In my tank my fish generated nutrients are about the same as my plant uptake. Front end loading keeps my NO3/PO4 at almost exactly levels at all times. I can measure and get pretty much the same reading any day of the week, including right before and right after a water change. That goes the same for TDS. I can test my TDS any day of the week and it's almost exactly the same. If it isn't then something is off.
 
It's why I started front end loading all of my macro nutrients right after a water change many years ago.
Hi @GreggZ I have been doing this with macros and minerals for a long time now as well... mixing the weeks "use" of NPK and Ca/Mg into the weekly 40% WC water straight away. Makes the whole routine easier and safer as well as it avoids fluctuations.... I always take the TDS of the WC water to make sure I got the target right as well. My traces I add the day after and then again mid week. I even let my RO water degas for a day before using it to avoid CO2 spikes.

Cheers,
Michael
 
Hi @GreggZ I agree. The Lean-highlight-lowCO2 approach is not a mainstream approach and whether it will ever be is doubtful, but fascinating nevertheless. If you just look at some of the prerequisites (correct me if I am wrong):

  • Rich substrate: Expensive - but probably the least of the hurdles, unless you have to switch it out.
  • Low KH/pH making RO/DI almost mandatory: Costly, elaborate and impractical for many.
  • low(er) temperature: Excluding a lot of livestock that prefer warmer waters.
  • Finely tuned and specialized fertilization: Requiring quite a bit of insights, and possibly lots of experimentations to get it just right. This is probably where most hobbyists will take a pass.

The practical advice given by many (including myself) on this forum, in addition to stable conditions and proper maintenance, is very much in line with derivations of the EI approach; provide enough ("rich") of everything in terms of NPK and traces and you don't have to worry about fertilizers or water parameters. If you get that down, and provide enough flow/circulation to make sure nutrient distribution is up to par and make sure your light intensity is in line with stable nutrients/CO2 availability (whether you inject or not..) you wont go wrong. I still have to see a convincing case where all these conditions are met over time and the hobbyist still struggles with algae or poor plant health. In a tank like this, it generally doesn't matter to your plants (except for certain picky soft-water species) what the water parameters (KH/GH/pH) are. It's a very straight forward approach in my opinion and its been working wonderfully for me in the past and so many others around here. To me there is no conflict here; we have to make a distinction between what is technically possible for the folks among us who are ready to make the commitment (to the lean-highlight-lowCO2 approach) , and what is practical for most folks in the hobby who are not.

Cheers,
Michael
Agree with everything you said. I also find outlier tanks fascinating. I've been talking to Sudipta for quite a long time about his non CO2 tanks. Still amazes me to this day.

And yes, it takes a special kind of commitment to follow some of these methods. Not for the average hobbyist. What I would love to see is if some of these methods could be repeatable on a large scale. That always seems to be the missing link.
 
again all in all this is still an interesting discussion and I will continue to follow along. I'm still not sold on how it can be implemented across the broader hobby, but heck I am been wrong before. Keep at it and keep the updates coming.

For me…..The Tom Barr method is aimed very squarely at a broad ‘market’. (I include myself right here) It’s easy to understand, relatively easy to implement and will, in most cases, give good results. It’s not foolproof perhaps but IMO it’s a pretty good yardstick.

Happi’s methods are a bit trickier to understand, you need to know more to implement them well and IMO they hold a greater risk of going wrong for the average joe, because of that. There is, however, still a market for them.

Potentially the more they are explored and tested and tried out, the more knowledge is gained of both the pro’s and cons…..and this forum seems like the perfect place to do that.

Would I use Happi’s methods right now…..no! I’m fully aware of my own limitations and believe I need a better grasp of the basics before going ‘off piste’.

But……I also consistently come back to this thread and read it with interest. It challenges folks to think, and to question….and this is how we learn!

I may never use Happi’s methods but if I did ever want to experiment with lean dosing, I’d know a lot more about it than I ever did before this thread came up! 😊
 
Hi @GreggZ I have been doing this with macros and minerals for a long time now as well... mixing the weeks "use" of NPK and Ca/Mg into the weekly 40% WC water straight away. Makes the whole routine easier and safer as well as it avoids fluctuations.... I always take the TDS of the WC water to make sure I got the target right as well. My traces I add the day after and then again mid week. I even let my RO water degas for a day before using it to avoid CO2 spikes.

Cheers,
Michael
I love it. I have been doing so for years as well.

If nothing else it sure is a lot more convenient.
 
For me…..The Tom Barr method is aimed very squarely at a broad ‘market’. (I include myself right here) It’s easy to understand, relatively easy to implement and will, in most cases, give good results. It’s not foolproof perhaps but IMO it’s a pretty good yardstick.

Happi’s methods are a bit trickier to understand, you need to know more to implement them well and IMO they hold a greater risk of going wrong for the average joe, because of that. There is, however, still a market for them.

Potentially the more they are explored and tested and tried out, the more knowledge is gained of both the pro’s and cons…..and this forum seems like the perfect place to do that.

Would I use Happi’s methods right now…..no! I’m fully aware of my own limitations and believe I need a better grasp of the basics before going ‘off piste’.

But……I also consistently come back to this thread and read it with interest. It challenges folks to think, and to question….and this is how we learn!

I may never use Happi’s methods but if I did ever want to experiment with lean dosing, I’d know a lot more about it than I ever did before this thread came up! 😊
Agreed and a good example of the thoughts of many in the hobby. And learning and evolving is a great thing. I've been challenging some common notions for years too.
 
Happi’s methods are a bit trickier to understand, you need to know more to implement them well and IMO they hold a greater risk of going wrong for the average joe, because of that. There is, however, still a market for them.


this risk is with any approach that you might follow, anyone can fail even with the best approach.
1646783939124.png
 
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What I see and read is that we keep on talking about low dosing + high light + no/low CO2 but not much is said about temperature and its criticality. In my opinion it is perhaps the most important ingredient that will make the low dosing + high light + no/low CO2 work. That's also perhaps why this method cannot be applied to the majority because most people don't have a chiller. Those that live in cold countries or countries where you have 4 seasons you can make this work for a time of the year but then summer come and the rest is history. That's why the EI methods or the ones derived thereof are more applicable to the masses since temperature is less critical to maintain the tank in good condition.
 
What I see and read is that we keep on talking about low dosing + high light + no/low CO2 but not much is said about temperature and its criticality. In my opinion it is perhaps the most important ingredient that will make the low dosing + high light + no/low CO2 work. That's also perhaps why this method cannot be applied to the majority because most people don't have a chiller. Those that live in cold countries or countries where you have 4 seasons you can make this work for a time of the year but then summer come and the rest is history. That's why the EI methods or the ones derived thereof are more applicable to the masses since temperature is less critical to maintain the tank in good condition.
Hi @Hanuman I added your point about a chiller to my lists of prerequisite in my post above - a very good point, that is easily overlooked unless you live in a climate that would require it 🙂

Cheers,
Michael
 
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