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Journal on my new 200L low tech with Under Gravel Filter

Hello hello.

So its been 20 days since the setup.
The aquarium plants are thriving, fish are delivering their fry.
The pH from day one to now went from 7,2 to 7,6. But it stopped there more than week ago.
So I'm quite sure it was the boulder that I place on top of my driftwood that was slowly raising the pH.
After I removed it the pH stayed at the same reading.
I did several small water changes, up to 10% a day, skipping a day here and there. Usually it was about 7-8%
The GH from day one to 10th day raised 5 or 6dGH, then I started performing those small water changes to keep it down, further I removed the stone, this is another reason to think that it was also responsible for raising my pH and my KH, more on that later.

I removed the stone o May 27th, but I was doing some water changes since May 23rd, but the GH kept raising by the next day. With the stone in I managed to reduce it to 13dGH, but it raised shortly after.
After I removed the stone the readings were more consistent

The KH raised from 3dKH to a weak 5dKH after I put the stone into the aquarium on May 16th, so it stayed there for eleven days.

Why I say a weak 5dKH? Because the test didn't become a strong yellow after the fifth drop, but it was yellow nonetheless.

Recently I ask for help identifying a crypto of mine, and it was said it could be a C. Balansae
I've grown it a few times, I don't remember the leaf edges being so crenate, or the leaves being that long. But then I grew it low-energy without CO2, and like @ElleDee mentions above, crypts have a great deal of phenotypic plasticity when it comes to leaf morphology, responding to different environmental conditions. So I could be wrong. It does look more like C. balansae though.
And
My guess would be for 99% Balansae

So I went to my lfs and bought a tissue grow of a Cryptocoryne Crispatula var. balansae. To check if my previous crypto was the same. So I planted it in my tank to see what it turns out.

Ado. (Yet I'm a beginner on identifying aquarium plants.
One part of me thinks "Cryptocoryne Balansae and Cryptocoryne Crispatula var. balansae are the same plant"
But other part of me thinks they could be different species therefore I would have two types balansae? Is that so? Or I'm just tripping?
They are different, the leaves in the newer one was way more crenate than my previous one when I first bought it. So that could be a Cryptocoryne Spiralis, as I found it on sale on the same fish store that I bought it back then.
But, when I bought my first crypto, I didn't buy I tissue growth, I bought it already in the the submerged form.
But the store owner told me that he has the C. Spiralis in vitro and submerged grown. I didn't asked about the C. balansae, shame on me.)

I also added a small portion of C. wendtii "Green Gecko"
IMG_20240601_122504.jpg


and my first buce: Bucephalandra Brownie Ghost:
IMG_20240601_122509.jpg

Yep, they are really small.

I payed R$38,00 for each Cryptocoryne (tissue growth) and R$65,00 for the buce (it came two small portion, but the second I planted behind the driftwood in a shaded area with more water flow.

I don't have any pictures of the C. crispatula var. balansae.

On May 30th, the plants were quite overgrown.
IMG_20240530_181802.jpg

The Limnophila sessiflora, grew quite large very quickly, and send side shoots in many stems (in the previous tank it didn't happen as much as it happened in this one)
The floating plants took over the surface in no time, the new plants had shorter roots, which I think was because they came from an outside bucket with almost no plant food to an aquarium rich in plant food and ferts (DIY KCl and Seashem Flourish)
So I decided to squip the fertilization this week
After the trimmings it got like this:
IMG_20240530_190859.jpg

(First trimmings, May 30th)

But It has already overgrown.
This is the picture of my tank now:
IMG_20240603_083829.jpg

The L. Sessiflora really liked there, and it is starting to take shape.

But there are something going off in this tank.
Since it was a rushed setup for a emergency, I didn't had the time to wait few weeks to put the fish in.
I never had a problem with ammonia before neither did I have this time, but cycling a tank it's not just about nitrifying bacteria.
There are other things too, which I'm not well informed.

The ammonia reading was 0. I don't have access to nitrates or nitrites test kits, so it could be off.
But I can read my fish
Their gills seem fine, but I think that there is a parasite on the gills of some of my fish, because a group of them is gasping near the surface, and some are scratching themselves against the plants, specially the Echinodorus grisebachii, which has harder and rougher leaves.

I noticed also some bumps and swollen areas underneath the skin of some fish, I have read it may be some sort of virus, Lymphocystis, but I'm not sure. They are eating ok.
But I also noticed small reddish spots, like a irregular cell growth inside their bodies, two of my fish had shown this symptoms.
I didn't manage to take a picture.

One fish died, it got some swollen bits deteriorated quite fast, 4 days from the first symptoms to the death.
I read if it is Lymphocystis there is no much we can do, because the virus is already in the water and other fish may be carriers that show no symptom, so there is no reason to remove the assymptomatic ones.

My guess is that I put some contaminated stuff into my tank, through the plants or a assymptomatic fish. I think the first can be right, because I got some trimmings from a friend of mine few days ago, that I didn't quarantine, nor bathed them with potassium permanganate.
I think I may have learnt a lesson...

Either way I would be better off if I had the time to wait every thing to take it's course and develop less rushy.
But at the end of the day it is all about learning and taking notes to not rush things up, taking the time and being a little bit more careful...

Cheers
Jonni
 
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Hello fellows.

So today I decided to check the power head that runs my UGF.

I wanted to check if it had any buildup, as in my other tanks with internal filter, they tend to have a buildup in their spinning wheel and around it. It get covered with a slime stuff, that I believe is biofilm.

So I took the power head out and check it thoroughly.
But I find almost nothing in there, it was pretty clean.
Yet, I think it is not up for commemoration, because I think that there are two things that I that I must pay attention to:

First: the geo fabric may be doing a really good job at preventing mulm and other stuff going through the uplift tube...

Second: the geo fabric may be doing a bad job by preventing some mulm going through the uplift tube and it may become clogged, not the tube, but the geo fabric over the plates...

The water looks pristine, cristal clear with light tea colour. But for how long?

IMG_20240608_193232.jpg

As you can see, it looks pretty clean.

IMG_20240608_193343.jpg

The impeller also looks very clean. That bit near the top of the impeller isn't rust, it looked like a colony of some sort of brown bacteria. It was over the whitish rubber thing, but I scrapped it off just by holding it.

There is a little bit of algae on the outside of the power head.
IMG_20240608_193440.jpg

It can be seen right on the label, I don't think it is bad to have algae, they seem under control, so I didn't get concerned about it.

So I think for today it is about it.
Now I will only check the power head in three months time, to see how it develops.

Cheers
Jonni
 
Hello hello...

Today I wanna share my reds.
Not all of them, but one specifically.

My Limnophila sessiflora are looking really gorgeous:
IMG_20240612_203039.jpg


Hope you all are doing just as good as my plant. 😌

Cheers
Jonni
 
So, it seems I have ran into problems...
I think that there are two things that I that I must pay attention to:

First: the geo fabric may be doing a really good job at preventing mulm and other stuff going through the uplift tube...

Second: the geo fabric may be doing a bad job by preventing some mulm going through the uplift tube and it may become clogged, not the tube, but the geo fabric over the plates...
The second guess was what was happening.
Why I say that?

The flow decreased quite a lot since I set it up. When I turned the air tube to inject more air into the tank it wasn't working, it wasn't bubbling hehe. But when I took the power head out of the uplift tube it cranked up right on the spot.

As a man, I decided to take the matters on my hand... actually I took the Dremmel on my hands...
IMG_20240612_222315.jpg

I used 2mm drill bits to make a few holes (5 of them) at the base of the uplift tube.
They weren't pretty, and I know it will hinder the full potential of my UGF, shame on me...

But not on you dear reader. You can do better, don't lose faith, don't let your heart faint! Don't be discouraged 😌. May the Under Gravel Force be with you!

IMG_20240612_231928.jpg

(Three out of five holes)

About the plates, as I have mentioned on another thread, I became aware that the plate slots were too small, but I won't tear my tank apart just to fix it.

The slots were really tiny and clogged easily.
Have just set up my aquarium with the more open undergravel plates which I'd kept (attics are great !)
I feel you brother, that's really something to look out for..

Now I'm concerned: my plates have tiny slots, covered with a geo fabric:
View attachment 219928
Each slot is 20 mm x 1 mm (3/4 of a inch by 1/32 of an inch - I have no idea if I read it right)


My power head has a turnover of 600L/h, divided by two uplifts. The ration for the aquarium total volume is about 3 times, but the water volume above the substrate is about 120L so the ratio of turnover is around 5x. Of course there is resistance from the substrate the geo fabric etc

Yeah, I guess I was right, the geo fabric did have a role clogging the system, and also the tiny slots.

So I ran into the same problem as @Polly.

What about you?
Use proper plates, with wider slots, and maybe a easier to flow through geo fabric...

As for me, I still have some faith that my UGF will work somehow, if not, I have a fancy unintended partial plenum tank (whatever it means, I have to study more on plenums now).

As far as I have studied about nitrifying bacteria, they may be doing just fine with a reduced flow of water, they may not be at their fullest, but they will still be doing something. I just can't remember were I have read about it...

Cheers
Jonni
 
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Hello hello

The trouble keeps going...
Well, there is almost no trouble.

My quick fix didn't make it, or maybe it did.
I woke up this morning to check if it was running ok, as last night after I bore the holes.

But it wasn't...
The snails are unforgiving
IMG_20240613_082008.jpg

I know they are pretending to be trouble makers, they are more like trouble ceasers.

Maybe I will have to fix the UGF...
I forgot that snails liked those kind of spots where debris may concentrate....


Cheer
Jonni
 
Hello.

Well, I had to take action once again.
Since the small holes at the base of my power lift tube didn't work, I decided to run the UGF with reverse flow as suggested by @Maf 2500, in: Help needed. Miss calculation on Under Gravel Filter

I didn't had a smaller power head though.
So I divided the actual one in two (the one I have has two water exiting tubes, one I added a small tube to point upwards, and another I attached a hose to direct the flow into the UGF uplift tube (I think it is downlift tube now 😅)

IMG_20240616_111312.jpg


I don't want to much of a sharp flow.

@Tim Harrison suggested to attach the UGF to a cannister, but for me it is out of question, because here in Brazil it is expensive (at least for me: by now it costs a little bit more than a third of my paycheck - the cheapest one), and I was worried it could be noisy, I couldn't find much info about it.

Another thing is to tear it apart, I think it is doable, but quite disturbing thing to do to an aquarium.

I have ordered craft mesh screen and my plan is:

Remove the livestock;
Remove the plants that are over the area were I put the plates;
Drain the aquarium;
Dig the plates area;
Remove the geo fabric;
Cut bigger holes in the plates;
Hot glue the craft mesh to cover the bigger holes;
Put everything back into place;
Fill it up;
Run the filter for half a hour;
Reintroduce the livestock.

Surely I will test before hand if the craft mesh will hold the weight beforehand.
I think about boring the holes on the plates with the following sizes (5 cm x 5 cm) in various parts and patch it with the craft mesh.
I think it will be easier than to change the plates, because I don't wanna mess with the pipes that are already connected to the plates, to do so I would have to tear everything apart.

But if you tell me:
Jonni, you don't have to worry about UGF flow rate, nor about water column movement in a heavily planted aquarium, I will listen to you.
I really don't wanna to tear it apart, nor do the maintenance, I will only do it because I'm not sure if I can rule it out, because I really want to have a UGF and test it.
Also I don't wanna my fish scared of water flow rate, they seem quite relaxed with the almost no flow, but again, I don't know if it is safe in the long run...

Cheers
Jonni
 
Hello hello.

I'm still waiting for the supplies that I ordered from China to arrive, then I will fix the UGF, at least I think so...

Meanwhile, I have decided to remove my favourite plant from the escape. The Limnophila sessiflora was growing like crazy, I was trimming it every five days. As soon as it touched the water surface I trimmed about 10cm.
It was veracious. It looked really beautiful, but I couldn't keep up with the maintenance 🥲.

I have bought some new fancy plants to replace it at my LFS.

I thought "well, all the plants are doing really well, the weed soil must be working really good, so I will try the yellow marked ones" here in Brazil we have a plant supplier that mark his plants in colour grades "green = easy; yellow = moderate; red = hard".

I already had some yellow ones with some success, so I bought two marked as moderate and one as hard.

The plants I bought are:
Helianthiun tenellun 'red' - this one I think will stay green, because my lights aren't that strong, yellow marked
Cryptocoryne beckettii - also yellow marked, I thought every crypts were easy...
Pogostemon helferi - red marked, I think this one was mismarked though...

Also bought two new Bucephalandras:
Brownie phoenix and Kit Royale.

To replace the space that the Limnophila sessiflora was taking, I planted some Hygrophila corymbosa.

I noticed that my aquarium was lacking some potassium, I saw some black holes in the Hygrophila corymbosa, that was kind of hidden before I moved it. So I decided to add 22 ppm of potassium once a week, and then decrease if necessary.

The picture below was taken in the day I removed the Limnophila sessiflora.
IMG_20240622_085640.jpg


Now the tank has new plants in L. Sessiflora place, but I don't have pictures yet.

I still don't have algae issues. So, for now it is a win.
The tank is running with reverse flow through the UGF, and the water is not as crystal clear as it was, but it's pretty decent.

As for growing nice plants I think the article that Tim Harrison wrote about the hybrid tech approach is something to consider:

Cheers
Jonni
 
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