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Is this the case of low mg?

Hi Steve.. I have been experiencing similar kind of issues too. U can have a look at my recent posts. Mine s a 100 g co2 injected tank. My ferts use also very similar. And deficiency r also very much like urs. After extensive discussions in the forum I too purchased florin fe which contains both edta and gluconated fe. But what I am discovering s that I probably am suffering from ca and mag def. I had stopped dosing equilibrium when my ro water supply changed to hard water. Now I get so much response upon adding equilibrium. But it's still early days and I will keep u posted. I too had frogbits which got wiped out. Dont worry.. u r not alone. Pls keep us posted. May be I can something from ur experience too.

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Diamondsteve said:
I’ve brought the tnc iron.

Can you give me a recommendation on how much to use and how many times a week. For a 180l tank . 40% water change with ro on sundays. Also during dry salts EI dosing
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Hi
U need to dose your iron on your micros days.You are aiming for 0.5 ppm so for 180ltr 10ml of TCN iron will provide that as according to their dose 1ml in 10ltrs gives 1ppm.
Just to let U know the iron(Fe )is not mobile in the plant and It wont affect the old leaves.U will need to be patient and observe the new growth.
Regards Konsa
 
Hi Steve
Why don't you just cut your Reverse Osmosis Water with tap water!
3 to 1 Ratio....this will reduce a lot of your problems!
 
Daveslaney said:
GH is measured in dgh (degrees german hardness) not ppm.
The ro water you buy should be zero ppm of anything?
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The above is correct.....are you purchasing the correct RO water?
There is 2 types Marine and Fresh water!
I've never run a Marine Set-up so not familiar with its RO Water parameters!
hoggie
 
Hi
Dont know the difference between Ro water for marine and ro water for fresh water setups.But if the fish store has marine section is possible to have received ready mixed saltwater instead the RO by mistake
It has very little chance of it happening but is possible.Mine lfs sells both types and some of the staff are so dateless is unbelievable
Regards Konsa
 
It’s 100% freshwater RO from my lps. The staff there know what they are doing too.

Yeah ok so 3/1 ratio sounds spot on as tbh the equilibrium just makes the water (gh) harder as that’s also their selling point .

1 more question will the leaves ever become good again? Is it best to leave them or trim?
 
Diamondsteve said:
Really want the limnophila hippuridoides to do well as I thinks it’s a great background plant . Was growing well but pale for the first 3 weeks of its tank life now shredding leaves
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I have no idea why everyone loves to blame Iron deficiency for so many problems.
Look at these symptoms carefully. Iron deficiency cannot cause this.
These symptoms are typical of poor CO2. This was pointed out to you in post #2
You need to fix you CO2.
For the first 3 weeks the plants were using their carbohydrate reserves. Their sugar reserves were not replenished because of the CO2 shortfall.
If the CO2 is being pumped through the internal filter it may work better if you pump it through the stronger filter.
I cannot see the configuration of your filter output so it's very difficult to assess without diagrams or photos.
Falling leaves, holes in leaves, translucency, rotting, brown spots, black spots, distorting leaves and any structural failure or structural anomalies, BBA GDA, filamentous algae are always caused by poor CO2.
6_CB1_EADC_F6_AD_496_D_BA9_E_26_D0_AA7_D8608.jpg

Cheers,
 
Diamondsteve said:
Thanks for your reply Darrel . Answering your question I did have floating frogbit and the new leaves were yellow and had brown marks on them.
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Hi
Here he also said that his floating plants new leaves are yellow and they have access to atmospheric CO2.Thats why I thought about Iron as possible defficiency.
Regards Konsa
 
ceg4048 said:
I have no idea why everyone loves to blame Iron deficiency for so many problems.
Look at these symptoms carefully. Iron deficiency cannot cause this.
These symptoms are typical of poor CO2. This was pointed out to you in post #2
You need to fix you CO2.
For the first 3 weeks the plants were using their carbohydrate reserves. Their sugar reserves were not replenished because of the CO2 shortfall.
If the CO2 is being pumped through the internal filter it may work better if you pump it through the stronger filter.
I cannot see the configuration of your filter output so it's very difficult to assess without diagrams or photos.
Falling leaves, holes in leaves, translucency, rotting, brown spots, black spots, distorting leaves and any structural failure or structural anomalies, BBA GDA, filamentous algae are always caused by poor CO2.
6_CB1_EADC_F6_AD_496_D_BA9_E_26_D0_AA7_D8608.jpg

Cheers,
Click to expand...

Hi!

Co2 cannot be a problem because I have the co2 pipe going into the output filter pipe, it splits out Tiny bubbles through the whole of the tank , plus the external filter outlet sends the bubbles back in the opposite way . Nice green colour on the indicator.

Was a brand new co2 fire extinguisher
 
Diamondsteve said:
Picture of the co2 going through the outlet
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Not the best method of CO2 injection :thumbdown:

Diamondsteve said:
Nice green colour on the indicator.
Click to expand...

Which indicates[CO2] in that location. Have you tried moving DC about to the part of tank with the least flow, will take time to show OFC. I move my pH probe all over tank to check the pH from time to time even to spots where there is very little flow, just to check they have similar pH.

If no livestock in tank you could up the CO2 injection rate, My DC was well off the colour change scale,took the DC out at weekend as seemed pointless using it. I use the livestock to determine safe levels. Dead fish too high - never had. Snails at top of tank bit on high side. Fish at top of tank or floating about like dead after feeding them-then they recover- close to the limit.so dropped the pH 0.1pH. Then just made sure the pH was relatively stable throughout the photo period

Had my DC at lime green for months and algae issues nothing massive controlled to some extent with LCO2, but needed light at carpet 50cm deep also, but also holes in some plants. Up the CO2 to the limit recently and Plants pearling at much lower light intensities rest of tank looking better too.

Could you do a Pic of the whole tank and paste it in thread - might help
 
Hi
Remove all the dying plants also poor growing leaves.....purchase a RO unit if you do want to use RO.....save some cash from purchasing the LFS stuff.
Cut the RO with tap water 3 to 1 or 2 to 1 ........lower your lighting for a few weeks, add small dosing regimes Macro/Micro till you see nice sustained growth this may take a few weeks...but be Patient.
hoggie
 
Hi all,
ceg4048 said:
I have no idea why everyone loves to blame Iron deficiency for so many problems.
Look at these symptoms carefully. Iron deficiency cannot cause this.
Click to expand...
I think a lot of diagnosed "iron" deficiencies aren't, and I agree that the most likely nutrients to be deficient are the ones plants need most of, carbon (C), nitrogen (N), potassium (K), followed by phosphorus (P) etc.

I've re-sized the image to make it easier to see. In this case the chlorosis effects both floating and submerged leaves, and that the new leaves of the Hygrophila in the back-ground are almost chlorophyll free. You can also see the inter-veinal chlorosis and paling in the new Cryptocoryne leaves.

hygrophila_chlorosis.jpg

Therefore it is a deficiency of an element that is non-mobile in the plant, and one that causes chlorosis. By far the most likely of those is iron (Fe).

cheers Darrel
 
dw1305 said:
Therefore it is a deficiency of an element that is non-mobile in the plant, and one that causes chlorosis. By far the most likely of those is iron (Fe).
Click to expand...
OK Darrel, I'll buy that, but again, there is no rule that states that a tank cannot have more than one problem.

The plants that are in the photo I referred to are definitely suffering CO2 failure. The plants that you reference are suffering nutrient failure, so there are at least two problems.

Therefore, if CO2 is being added and nutrients are being added and yet there are still nutrient and CO2 related symptoms, the cause must be poor flow or poor distribution.

Everyone thinks that their CO2 and flow/distribution is good.

Seeing bubbles floating around means absolutely nothing.

Seeing CO2 and nutrient deficiency symptoms in a plant means everything.

The OP is encouraged to review CO2 application technique as well as flow/distribution configuration.

Cheers,
 
Thanks lads for your continued support.

I’ve started to notice a difference already after 4 days. I’ve doubled the dose of mg to 2 tsp ,doubled on KNO3 &khpo4 (1tsp and 1/4) on Sun,tues,thurs.

Started adding iron and adding it on the trace days and also an extra day .

Noticed new grow on the Pogostemon helferi and Alternanthera reineckii Rosanervig is turning more red.

Btw I have about 1200l per hour turnover in my tank and there’s plenty of flow with gas going into each corner of the tank . Cannot be that surly. It’s looking like the lack of mg and iron. I’ve also brought Tnc iron too which is better for my hard water .

I will post more pics at the weekend lads
 
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