Edvet
Member
a good book
Funnily there is a lot to learn in the tutorial section here.😉
a good book
Thanks, Viktor. Though I'm just using a pH meter to measure pH not control it. it's just a 'pen' with a digital display that you dip in the water. Wouldn't re-using old soil prevent the initial low pH?Later on after 2-3 months when the pH dropping is less by the soil you will have more success with a pH computer.
Not as much better, depends on what you aim for, but in my mind always better for the fish, and thus more atractive.
I'm not sure about this... take for example the ADA fert line. It is fairly easy to find in the internet what's the content of this cool bottles. Does it mean that people will not buy them anymore? I may be wrong but my guess is that ADA is selling more and more fertilizers. I think there are two reasons for this: on the one hand, some people are not really interested in making their DIY version. And on the other hand, ADA (as it happens with BMW, Mercedes or other luxury car brands) is selling not only products, but a "way of life", a status. ADA SuperJet filters are extremely expensive for the flow delivered. Does it matter? Not at all, tthey look gorgeous under transparent cabinets or cabinets without doors...
Think about it, more brands are following this path (i.e Elos, Aquavas). IMO there are few secrets in the hobby. The day after a new product is released I'm sure it is analyzed in detail by the other companies or hobbyists, and in most cases there is no need to do so... a new stainless 300 lph filter for 1,000€? a new co2 cristal bell diffuser for 400€? a new light that grows better plans? Come on guys, this is smoke and nothing more. But the classic brands (Sera, JBL, Eheim, etc.) are not that cool.
That's different, being the first is important. ADA has sold millions of AquaSoil bags and thousands of AquaSky units before the EU and knock off Chinese versions came to the market. I'm sure Twinstar is earning a lot of money right now, at least until cheap version will be manufactured. I'm pretty sure companies know this and are focused on new (but not necessarily useful) gadgets.
The way I think about it, there are always multiple ways to go about achieving the same results. A good example is "format wars". Beta vs VHS. Bluray vs HD-DVD. Both formats achieve the same result but using different methodology. EI vs PPS-Pro vs PMDD vs Tropica vs ADA vs Seachem are all different methods of fertilising. They all work to some extent, based on research and company direction. For Tropica, I find that their method of using 4x 54W T5HO a short distance on top of their 300L tanks is madness with only 30ppm of CO2, using their own line of ferts (which has less concentration than EI) and the built-in sump filter. But it somehow works!With the freshwater hobby, I don't think that the companies really have any secrets to give away. Their 'research' is not much better than hobbyist amateur efforts. That's why I would like to see a pool of money from various companies aimed at specific planted aquarium research.
Take the case of Tropica. I think they must have plenty of company secrets when it comes to successfully cultivating plants for sale and which plants are suitable for the market. They can keep that. However, the advice they give to hobbyists regarding CO2 and light seems either outdated or contradicting the EI dogma. This is where we need more research.
An example: Tropica say that Staurogyne repens is a 'medium' difficulty plant and therefore needs '6-14 mg/l' of CO2. Really? In that case I ought to turn down my CO2 right now and save on gas! I wouldn't dare, my Staurogyne is struggling at the moment with low light and (measured with my amateurish hobbyist means), 30+ mg/l CO2.
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I think you hit the crux of the problem right there. And reading this entire thread would have alluded to this - There's no one good book because information gets outdated, new methods are created, different manufacturers have different methods/biases. The first level of information is always the same - good soil, practical amount of light, sufficient CO2, sufficient fertilisation, effective filtration. Second level is where it all goes into the blender. Previously one of the advices I gave out to newbies is to copy someone's tank that is within your means. Now I don't know if its applicable anymore.Can anybody recommend a good book to help us newbies with the basics please?
I know there's allot of conflicting info out there, so my big worry would be reading a book and forming a basic starting point from which to learn, only to later find that half of it was inaccurate or outdated...
In my opinion, one of the best aquarium books ever for installation and care of the freshwater aquarium is The Optimum Aquarium by Kaspar Horst and Horst E. Kipper from 1986 (1st edition) or 1988 (2nd edition). It can be bought at Amazon or ebay. It's very informative, well written, and contains a great number of analyses as well.Can anybody recommend a good book to help us newbies with the basics please?
Thank-you, that is a new one for me, I've just ordered a pre-owned copy via Amazon.for £5.The Optimum Aquarium by Kaspar Horst and Horst E. Kipper
I have it, i liked it in the beginning, though it feels a tad biased on Dupla stuff........😉
Nice tank...This could be contentious but I am really curious. Since joining this forum last year I have noticed a huge focus towards flow, distribution and high levels of CO2 and EI ferts. I'm not saying any of this is wrong but it also doesn't seem to have made things any easier for beginners
Beginners regularly post new threads following this advice with their whirlpools of CO2 micro bubbles with green drop checkers, plenty of ferts. yet still with plants melting and algae issues... When did it become so difficult? My first planted tanks had T8 lights, bubble ladder reactors and the plants grew like crazy without any of these dramas. I might have given up otherwise.
This is my tank form April 2003, it's 1200 x 60 x 60. Lighting is 4 x T5 Tubes (staggered through a 10 hour photo period). Substrate is Dennerle Deponit Mix with gravel overlay and a heater cable. CO2 operated by a PH controller set at 6.6 with 3dkh water with injection at 2BPS directly in to the filter inlet of one canister filter.
The simple open pipe outlet of the single Eheim 2226 filter is at the back right corner so that the water circulates gently round the whole tank a bit like stirring a bucket but there was little visible movement of the plants in the flow except at the back near the outlet. Now I'm not saying this is anywhere near Amano quality but by the same token I don't think many would complain about a tank with growth as lush as this. Fertilisation was mostly pinches of KNO3 as and when it seemed appropriate, with some Tropica liquid from time to time also when it seemed necessary. All a bit seat of the pants really but no atomiser, ugly co2 mist, no mega flow and few algae issues. Full lighting on for 5 hours in the afternoon.
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Nice tank...
I know what you mean...I thought the same thing when I re-entered the hobby in Nov 2011 after a 25 year,or so, hiatus.
Being new to forums as well, and not fully appreciating the appropriate etiquette, I even posted a slightly embarrassing rant entitled - The High-tech way or the Highway, which I hesitate to link here...but what the hell...it may prove amusing...Clive didn't like it very much...😀 http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/the-high-tech-way-or-the-highway.18562/
And, not only but also, it was the precursor to my Tutorial The Soil Substrate or Dirted Tank - A How to Guide...
Needless to say I'd recommend the low-energy soil substrate way for newbies, because there is so much that can be achieved with relatively low risk - including to the bank balance.
It seems it's also increasingly becoming a sanctuary for battle weary high-energy refugees who've decided they need a change of pace...and therein lies the fundamental lesson that others have commented on...it takes time and patience - but the end results are worth it.