This is something that intrigues me, because it is clear that N is nitrogen, not NO3, which means that its fertiization is not very lean, so I think that you are using various nitrogen sources for N, as KNO3 is only impossible, if you add KH2PO4 , its% in N (KNO3) is limited to 58%, if it is used by a source of P without potassium, it can reach up to 75.56% ...
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IFC Aquarium Fertilizer Calculator
- Thread starter Hanuman
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- calculator clone diy fertilizer ppm
The ratios are for each nutrient group NO3, PO4, K etc If you only have one salt in each group it doesn't matter what ratio you use the results are the same. If using multi salts say for NO3 eg Potassium Nitrate and Urea and set the ratio to '1' for both the Target NO3 for each salt is 50% of the total NO3 target ( same if you set each one at '367' - both get an each share). If you set Potassium Nitrate to '9' and urea to '1' Potassium Nitrate will supply 90% of the NO3 and Urea will supply 10%. The amount each salt supplies of the nutrient group is shown in the salt share. Doing a 'salt share' was the easiest way we came up with doing it
your dosing will only supply the Standard dose of TNC complete when the TNC dose is set to '1'
Changing the Container Volume, dose amount, and frequency will only change the volume you add not the nutrients in each dose, the concentration of each dose will change but not the amount of nutrients. If you make it too concentrate it will point out you have exceeded the solubility limits for the salts.
If you wish to dose x2 the TNC dose set it too '2' and nothing your done.
Remember when it makes a clone all it clones is the nutrients per week not a 'true' clone - If you wish to make a 'true' clone then just set the IFC to the dose amount and frequency which TNC advise as standard, the Volume of container is irrelevant
You welcome and thanks 😀
What folk use is irrelevant some use N others use NO3, Although using N, P and K are what is used mainly in agriculture when firms supply nutrients, but as far as I am aware no plants uses N or P they use compounds which contain N and P.
The main reasons we chose to use NO3, K and PO4 are because the popular dosing regime EI dosing's quotes these figure and plants take up NO3, K and PO4.
Although when dosing for NO3 we advise Potassium Nitrate, however Urea has no NO3 however we have allowed for its conversion by the micro flora in the tank or by the plant itself.
deeproots
Member
Thankyou! So just so I've got this right, could you please have a look to see if this looks reasonable? I chose EI dosing low as my target (instead of tnc). I chose to dose 20ml per day, 7 days a week into a 280l with injected co2 (not a high bps, 2-3bps), fluval plant 3 (59w) and a nicrew sky led plus 120cm on 14 hours a day.
Macro:
Micro (I have chempak sequestered iron as well as AFPUK trace, so I chose FE7%, not sure if this is anywhere near correct):
Thankyou for your help so far
Advice is usually to use RO not tap water. Especially for AIO where you need to reduce the pH so that there is not interaction. If you have hard tap that will be difficult.
I'll make this quick and easy.
DIY AIO can be done. HOWEVER, because we are using weak acids and sometimes non-chelated compounds, compounds will interact sooner rather than later. That is why in the calculator it is advised to do lowly concentrated solutions. Don't get me wrong, it is possible to do AIO fertilizers that will last for months/years but those commercially available products use strong acids such as citric acid, sulfuric acid or other rather dangerous acids for DIY.
Also ALWAYS use RO water (+DI even better) to prepare your fertilizer. You do not know what is in your tap water that WILL interact with the compounds you will add to the water. ALWAYS acidify the solution prior adding any salts, never after.
It is usually advised to separate macros, micros and Fe. Fe and micros could be mixed together as long as you acidify water properly and use higher concentration (Fe 11% up). Remember, this is DIY so we have limited access to high tech chemistry and must accept the downsides.
I'll let @Zeus. and @dw1305 answer the interaction technicalities as that is not my area of expertise but you can start here: Interactions
DIY AIO can be done. HOWEVER, because we are using weak acids and sometimes non-chelated compounds, compounds will interact sooner rather than later. That is why in the calculator it is advised to do lowly concentrated solutions. Don't get me wrong, it is possible to do AIO fertilizers that will last for months/years but those commercially available products use strong acids such as citric acid, sulfuric acid or other rather dangerous acids for DIY.
Also ALWAYS use RO water (+DI even better) to prepare your fertilizer. You do not know what is in your tap water that WILL interact with the compounds you will add to the water. ALWAYS acidify the solution prior adding any salts, never after.
It is usually advised to separate macros, micros and Fe. Fe and micros could be mixed together as long as you acidify water properly and use higher concentration (Fe 11% up). Remember, this is DIY so we have limited access to high tech chemistry and must accept the downsides.
I'll let @Zeus. and @dw1305 answer the interaction technicalities as that is not my area of expertise but you can start here: Interactions
Summed up quite well IMO 👍
Plus we don't not make the solutions in a sterile environment, so we also introduce bacteria and spores of all sorts in our mix/broth, acidifying the solution also makes it an solution which will inhibited any bacteria and spores from thriving in them but its not 100% proof, so making a solution that will only last 6 to 8 weeks is a safer bet. I made some large batches early on and months later had mould in them. Always sterilise/disinfect your containers with at a least boiling water when making a new batch, I use multi containers which I rinse well and leave upside down till next time air dry as well.
I use RO water when I have it or boiled tap water cooled when I have non to hand.
aquariumshed
New Member
Just plugging my tanks into this calculator, and I honestly can't thank you guys enough. What a fantastic tool, remarkably detailed and really simple to get your head around. You've made my journey into dry salts so much simpler. Thanks so much!
Thank you, positive feedback makes all the hours spent well worth it 😁
I found a rather nasty bug in the DIYTraceCalculator and an update is underway. I would advise anyone using that DIYTraceCalculator holding from using it until the update. I'll make another post when the update is ready for download.
Just to make this clear for members who see this on this thread, NO3 for APT is correct. We just had a small doubt but ended being just a doubt. 🙂
What’s the bug please? Is it under or over calculating trace requirements?
The bug is with Fe. An error in the formula ends up screwing with the solubility limits advised in the "instruction" columns. This should not affect 99.99% of people because anyways I don't think anyone does serial dilution for Fe.
The reason it was missed is that as Hanni said serial dilutions are not really needed for Fe and you would have to be going for very high target Fe ppms or lots of Fe in grams in very little water - the salt just wouldn't of dissolved and the undissolved salt would of been very obvious to anyone with common sense. The coding/formulas for the instructions can be tricky to do to cover everything and minor errors/oversights are easy IMO.
Hear, hear!
😵 Are you using VBA macros or are most formulas inline like this? Moving this to VBA (in another lifetime) could simplify your work...
In any case, your amazing work is greatly appreciated!
VBA/macros were purposefully excluded from the calculator to avoid having to deal with security issues. This meant a lot more work on the function and custom formatting side. But yes VBA would have made my life much easier and it was something that was considered from the inception of the project.
