Help: Improving My Tank

[Eugine Thomas]

At a guess I'd say each notch on the valves loosely represents 300-350 LPH judging by Fluval claiming 3500 LPH flow.

I'm running an old Fluval 4 Plus that's (just checked) supposed to push 1000 LPH when new; that'll mean the FX6 will be three and a half times more powerful...that's not as much as I thought. I thought the FX6 filter was going to be ten times as powerful as the filter I'm using right now. No wonder I thought everyone was crazy; that'd be like running three FX6s on my tank!

I'm just looking at a spreadsheet of flow-rate compared to manufactures' recommended tank size and sometimes there's almost no correlation between the two.

Interpet PF4, maximum pump output per hour = 1000 l, maximum tank size = 182 l
[5.46 litres of (maximum) water pumped per litre of "recommended maximum tank volume"]

Eheim Pick Up Filter Range (2012), maximum pump output per hour = 570 l, maximum tank size = 200 l
[2.85 litres of (maximum) water pumped per litre of "recommended maximum tank volume"]

That's almost double!

SOURCE: http://www.thetropicaltank.co.uk/pi-intf.htm

 

[Rahms]

Yeah, I'd say mid-medium; just short of high-light (it's 15 inches from where my lights are to the top of the substrate). I think that if I were to leave one light on (with a reflector) for 16 hours I probably be just inside the high-light zone;

Thanks!

Would be nice if someone more experienced could address this: I've always understood the notion of low/medium/high light to be intensity based (i.e. Wattage), not total energy (i.e. wattage x time). The idea of a T8 providing high light by being left on longer doesn't sit right with me, but I'm not sure why (or whether its correct)!

also when I look at the graph I see a T8 bulb 15inches from the substrate giving ~15 PAR. Even assuming the reflector doubles your PAR, two tubes would be 60 PAR which is firmly in the medium light range.

 

[tekopikin]

Hi,

I think everyone here has touched on most of the problems you raised.

I just wanted to touch on the algae issue you had and suggest (if you haven't) that you add Malaysian trumpet snails (MTS) to your tank; these snails will make short work of some algae. They are also good for the general welfare of your tank and do not breed out of control, most of all and most importantly they will not eat your plants. You may see them on the leaves but rest assured they won't destroy them, they also take care of the problem of overfeeding. They're basically a clean up crew.

I have used this method for years now along with two assassin snails to keep the population of my MTS in check .

You'll find out that it's the low-tech solutions that keep algae at bay. I'm not sure if everyone here will agree with me but it did and still works for me.

I wish you all the best.

 

[ian_m]

Would be nice if someone more experienced could address this: I've always understood the notion of low/medium/high light to be intensity based (i.e. Wattage), not total energy (i.e. wattage x time). The idea of a T8 providing high light by being left on longer doesn't sit right with me, but I'm not sure why (or whether its correct)!

You are right time is never mentioned in high light/low light discussion and leaving a light on longer doesn't make a tank high light.

In my experience having the light on too long (10-12 hours, when I had T8 tubes), as well as costing more CO2, can lead to algae. I suspect/maybe it is due to ferts depletion, CO2 getting lower towards end of lighting period or even algae managing to adapt. This is where the 4-8hours on time idea probably comes from.

 

[Eugine Thomas]

Also: can anyone post some pictures of aquariums that have been grown with supplemented carbon dioxide and EI dosing (but low light)? I would be interested to see what people have created?

I don't know if anyone else is interested, but just thought I would post this from Tropical Fish Forums: "Low light high tech?" (http://www.aquahobby.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=51790)

Low light Hi-tech is probably a method which is going to be most popular in the future. Why? Because most of people want nice and long lasting (low maintenance, less work) scapes. Such aquarium will need up to 3 month to look mature, but once matured will last like that for 7-8 month (carpet plants).

SOURCE: http://www.aquahobby.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=51790

It's a shame the link to the photo is broken/old.