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George's TMC Signature
- Thread starter George Farmer
- Start date
jack-rythm
Member
Wait.. Their the same shot?... Honestly? I'm no photographer but that's insane! Now I feel stupid lol I thought it was two different angles and that u were merely moving the spray bottle to show perspective! I'll leave the photography to you guys I think, ha!
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Deano3
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- 8 Feb 2012
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lol i think they are same lol i know it deceives your eyes , is it same angle ? lol got me questioning now
Dean
flygja
Member
Very well done George! I'd be tempted to stick a great big log vertically at the back right and make a root scape.
George Farmer
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- 21 Jun 2007
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Cheers guys. Yes, they are both shot from full frontal positions. 🙂
The only difference is that one needs to be a lot closer to the tank with the 10mm focal length, probably about 30cm, vs. about 3 metres away with the 50mm.
The only difference is that one needs to be a lot closer to the tank with the 10mm focal length, probably about 30cm, vs. about 3 metres away with the 50mm.
George Farmer
Founder
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- 21 Jun 2007
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Hello everyone,
Nothing too exciting but my heating mat has arrived. Actually, I am very excited, but don't expect the feeling to be reciprocated! 🙂
If you haven't read through the journal properly (let's face it, I don't expect many of you to!), I'm using the heating mat for my dry start method. It's mainly to encourage 100% humidity for the mosses.
As you can see the cable and connector sit proud of the mat, so I've stacked foam squares to elevate the aquarium from the cabinet accordingly. The aquarium actually sits about 3mm above the cabinet now. How this will affect the heat transfer etc; I have no idea!
You can also see that the heating mat doesn't cover the entire aquarium footprint. I hope the heat spread will be fairly uniform, but again, I honestly have no idea! For the record it's rated at 30w.
Nothing too exciting but my heating mat has arrived. Actually, I am very excited, but don't expect the feeling to be reciprocated! 🙂
If you haven't read through the journal properly (let's face it, I don't expect many of you to!), I'm using the heating mat for my dry start method. It's mainly to encourage 100% humidity for the mosses.
As you can see the cable and connector sit proud of the mat, so I've stacked foam squares to elevate the aquarium from the cabinet accordingly. The aquarium actually sits about 3mm above the cabinet now. How this will affect the heat transfer etc; I have no idea!
You can also see that the heating mat doesn't cover the entire aquarium footprint. I hope the heat spread will be fairly uniform, but again, I honestly have no idea! For the record it's rated at 30w.
hey george, the lead connection is a pain on these. Ive tried a few ways of resolving it including using aquarium matting over it , cardboard and little squares like this. The best method i have found is to have the connection hang out the back, they dont give off a lot of heat so being flat against the bottom of the tank seems to be pretty important for any real heat transfer. Second best was to have an aquarium matt under heat matt with a notch cut out for the plastic connector and the heat matt flipped over.
Do you plan to remove the matt before flooding?
Do you plan to remove the matt before flooding?
I can assure you with that size mat, will make the whole tank very toasty, in fact it if your house is warm, it may be too warm!
Edit .. Ian might well be right though, if the tank is slightly raised the mat might no be so efficient.
I guess you have time to find out as the next step?
Edit .. Ian might well be right though, if the tank is slightly raised the mat might no be so efficient.
I guess you have time to find out as the next step?
jack-rythm
Member
Can u not stick the mat to the underside of the tank? I know u can with reptile hear mats?
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Hi all,
I think it would be better in contact with the mat, but I don't think it will matter too much. It isn't a very aesthetic option, but I'd go for bubble-wrap, or polystyrene, rather than the foam squares. You would need a rectangle the size of the tank, with the footprint of the mat cut out. The tank would them be supported, and the connector protected, but the heat wouldn't be able to escape between gaps, like it can via the foam pads.
You can get foil faced bubble wrap for a smarter job.
cheers Darrel
I think it would be better in contact with the mat, but I don't think it will matter too much. It isn't a very aesthetic option, but I'd go for bubble-wrap, or polystyrene, rather than the foam squares. You would need a rectangle the size of the tank, with the footprint of the mat cut out. The tank would them be supported, and the connector protected, but the heat wouldn't be able to escape between gaps, like it can via the foam pads.
You can get foil faced bubble wrap for a smarter job.
cheers Darrel
hydrophyte
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I have tested this kind of thing and I agree that the mat in contact with the glass will heat transfer much better. As easerthegeezer suggested it might be preferable to just have the connection and the rear 1" or so of mat extending from the the back. YOu certainly need to avoid a pressure point on the connection because that will put a lot of force on the glass and the nearby seams.
plantbrain
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- Joined
- 2 Aug 2007
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- 1,938
I would route /cut a small U shaped recessed channel for the cord and connection into the stand.
Those dinky pads will be crushed and place a lot o weight on the glass and reduce transfer.
Also, the general idea of heat for the moss: mosses actually do much better in cooler moist areas. This process only takes about 2 weeks for something like Fissidens to cover a lava rock.
I ground the moss in a blender with nutrient rich water, then painted the mix on a few branches, works very well. Takes about 2 weeks of moist cool conditions.
Warmer temps= less moisture in the air. So you have to evaporate more water to do that. Growth rates are higher, but so is demand for water.
Mosses have a high demand for water, but are slow growers, so stick with cooler temps and high humidity for 2 weeks, you do not need a heat source for that.
I think this method of heat is attractive for ADA tanks that need a little warmth, but do not want an in line Hydor type heaters or a heater stick or as thermo filter.
But you know my view on heated sediments....
Those dinky pads will be crushed and place a lot o weight on the glass and reduce transfer.
Also, the general idea of heat for the moss: mosses actually do much better in cooler moist areas. This process only takes about 2 weeks for something like Fissidens to cover a lava rock.
I ground the moss in a blender with nutrient rich water, then painted the mix on a few branches, works very well. Takes about 2 weeks of moist cool conditions.
Warmer temps= less moisture in the air. So you have to evaporate more water to do that. Growth rates are higher, but so is demand for water.
Mosses have a high demand for water, but are slow growers, so stick with cooler temps and high humidity for 2 weeks, you do not need a heat source for that.
I think this method of heat is attractive for ADA tanks that need a little warmth, but do not want an in line Hydor type heaters or a heater stick or as thermo filter.
But you know my view on heated sediments....
roots and cables dont tend to mix well.
George Farmer
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- 21 Jun 2007
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- 6,741
Thanks everyone. 🙂
I put some water in the tank yesterday and left the heater mat on all day and overnight.
The water temperature this morning was 21C, and room temperature 17C. So a difference of 4C, which I'm guessing is ok.
The tank is in my kitchen that reaches about 21C once the central heating is in full effect. So I assume the tank would reach about 25C. Please correct me if I'm wrong, and if this temp differential applies the same to wet soil... Obviously summertime would present different temps.
I was planning on removing it, but perhaps I could also use this to heat the aquarium long-term, rather than using an inline heater. It makes sense as there'd be less kit to clean and restrict flow.
I could put it on a timer to get a better element of control, or even retrofit a thermostat. Although the latter would incur kit in the tank which I'd rather not have.
What are your thoughts mate? 🙂
The instructions state not to submerge in water. Also, I would never be able to remove it afterwards, and I can't stand having cables going in/out of the tank! 🙂
Well, substrate heating is widely regarded as a waste of time and money in planted aquariums, unless you're using it to heat the tank instead of a regular heater. I also don't like the aesthetics of the cable, as mentioned to Jack. Having the heating mat under the tank means the cable is invisible. 🙂
I put some water in the tank yesterday and left the heater mat on all day and overnight.
The water temperature this morning was 21C, and room temperature 17C. So a difference of 4C, which I'm guessing is ok.
The tank is in my kitchen that reaches about 21C once the central heating is in full effect. So I assume the tank would reach about 25C. Please correct me if I'm wrong, and if this temp differential applies the same to wet soil... Obviously summertime would present different temps.
Hey Iain,
I was planning on removing it, but perhaps I could also use this to heat the aquarium long-term, rather than using an inline heater. It makes sense as there'd be less kit to clean and restrict flow.
I could put it on a timer to get a better element of control, or even retrofit a thermostat. Although the latter would incur kit in the tank which I'd rather not have.
What are your thoughts mate? 🙂
Hi Jack
The instructions state not to submerge in water. Also, I would never be able to remove it afterwards, and I can't stand having cables going in/out of the tank! 🙂
Hi Danny
Well, substrate heating is widely regarded as a waste of time and money in planted aquariums, unless you're using it to heat the tank instead of a regular heater. I also don't like the aesthetics of the cable, as mentioned to Jack. Having the heating mat under the tank means the cable is invisible. 🙂
jack-rythm
Member
Haha no not inside the tank silly! I meant stuck to the underside of the glass tank.. This is how you attach them to vivariums, I never put these inside the vivariums just underneath. You could use duck tape so it would be easily removable with some white spirit at the end of your project?
Cheers! Jack 🙂
Cheers! Jack 🙂
jack-rythm
Member
George Farmer
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Hi Jack
That was the plan but you can see the power cable and connector that protrude proud of the mat. Hence why I've used pads to allow for the protrusion.
I could, like Iain says, just have the mat poking out from the back, but I figured I'd lose too much heat.
Cheers,
George
