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Consistency Deficiency

@_Maq_ what if someone add any source of Carbon such as citric acid to their Solution and then also add Sodium Benzoate in the same solution. this would not let the Bacteria to grow? in another word the Benzoate will just prevent the Carbon and bacteria to do its thing? wouldn't it?

Tenso Cocktail contains Fe, Mn, Zn, and Cu as EDTA-complexes. Maybe nickel, too. What I don't know is what kind of protection works best with EDTA, but I do know for sure that other complexing agents - citrate, gluconate, DTPA, EDDHMA, etc. - require somehow different treatment.
it contains both EDTA and DTPA far as i know
 
Benzoate will just prevent the Carbon and bacteria to do its thing? wouldn't it?
Maybe. You'd have to try yourself. It certainly depends on concentrations, among others.
 
75% water change done, mesh intakes cleaned & had a little general tidy up of a few leaves here and there. Dosed the replenishing macros, thats important to remember.
Water is finally not pinky pink and I hope the pink tint stays away a bit longer this time. My pet theory is that the pink tint has been coming on so strong and fast because iron uptake has been hindered somehow, maybe. Or maybe its something else 😊

It feels good to be mostly caught up with maintenance now. I didnt get to do the spray bars or filters today but I can feel that I have spread myself a bit too thin this weekend and I need to take a little breather so things dont go all pear shaped again 😁 Theres no filter floss in the filters at the moment (I removed that when I realised I needed a break), so the filters wont be very needy anyway right now.

Ive forgotten to mention, theres almost nothing left of the new kind of slimy thread algae any more. At some point it swapped over from the new slimy kind to the old coarser kind. Im pretty happy about that, because the old coarser type can be pulled off the plants much more easily and doesnt tend to just break off leaving a lot still attached to the plant.
This is my favorite way of fighting algae, letting the algae go away on its own (or get outcompeted by a meaner algae :lol: ill still take it)
Theres still a bit of the slimy kind of thread algae on the Pantanal, hoo boy that plant sure is a ..thing. But it has to do with plant health, the Pantanal is almost always the one doing the most dramatic shrieking and fainting.

I grabbed a few photos of the dinner service, I know some people really enjoy the livestock pics

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Some shrimpy mama has released a litter of very brave shrimplets. Normally they hang out in the plants until they are a little bit bigger than this one, but this one and a bunch of small 'uns were all boldly going and pushing the otos around with all the adult shrimp

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The Neocaridina population has really increased, im glad. There was a point where I only had a handful it felt like.
This was only a section of the crowd that showed up for grub 😊
 
WOW Hufsa,
I have been reading the progress, so far only at page 12 of 47 LOL (Oct 21) Your tank in its many iterations always looks good to me.
One part that made me laugh was were you had left the tank for a few months and mentioned the java fern had put on some growth and finally had some dark spots on it due to the stress, it made me wonder how bad am I with plants, I can get brown spots in about 6 weeks, as for growth well I'm dumb struck people can actually get growth? LOL.

Your journey is inspiring, interesting, humerous, and I can't wait to carry on reading. Brilliant!
 
Need to write this down because I will 500% forget about it in only a few days, tanks gotten a few tweaks to lighting, CO2 and autodoser, some tweaks yesterday and some of it was a while ago.
Last night I added two more hours to the photoperiod, so its running at 10 hours total now not including the short ramps.
The time that the doser run was modified a little bit a while ago, im less nervous about dosing Urea now that my tank is thoroughly accustomed to it, so I swapped to dosing in one go rather than three, for practical reasons.
I have cancelled my blurple crusade, it turns out the lights were ramping down when I took those buce pictures, and thats why the spectrum was all wonky. Heresy averted :thumbup:
I didnt change the intensity very much, the call of the void wanted me to run both at 100% but I somehow overcame my desire to yeehaw and stuck with only the time increase 😇

Updated timeline:
07:30 Skimmer/Airstone* turns off
08:00 CO2 injection starts
09:00 Autodoser doses Micros
09:30 Lights start ramp up
10:00 Lights on "full" intensity (currently around ~70% on both Fluval 3.0's) CO2 is at 1.0 drop at this point.
12:00 Autodoser doses Macros
19:00 CO2 injection stops
20:00 Lights start ramp down
20:30 Lights off, skimmer/airstone* on

Ive got another PH pen coming in a weeks time, I was ordering something else from a store and found a reputable brand pen with 0,01 accuracy to a price that I couldnt pass up.
So expect a new PH profile coming soonish.


Hufsa's Adventures with Skimmers - A study in overthinking / Im nothing if not persistent

A week ago I swapped out the skimmer for an airstone, because I had read a forum member who had decent success with using only this to keep away surface scum, and I swear to god I am so tired of fishing shrimp out of the skimmer. Also, that useless Aquario skimmer broke into even more pieces when I tried mounting it in the tank, so I got zero working minutes out of that. I had used superglue to repair the original crack but the fitting itself is the most fragile thing I have ever come across, and I consider the whole venture a complete waste of money.
Most of you will already know ive tried a lot of different skimmers and modifications, first to the evil Eheim skimmer and then to the SunSun skimmer. The SunSun skimmer is ok except for my shrimp problem. I think I may have accidentally bred an especially stupid colony of shrimp, because I dont know of anyone else who is having so much problems with this. Or maybe im the stupid. Any way..
Ive been dragging my feet on implementing @Wookii 's specific mesh modification, because it involves gluing the mesh down and I was just nervous about doing a permanent modification in case it didnt work.
So I decided to try just an airstone, because it would be magnificently simple if it works.
A week has passed and I can see the surface is getting increasingly cloudy. I dont think this is going to work for me long term.

I put a lot of thought into how I can use CO2 injection in my tank while mitigating some of the risks that it carries.
Keeping the surface of the water crystal clear is one such factor, if this contributor to offgassing does not fluctuate then it will improve the long term stability (and safety) of the injection.
My main concern is equipment failure or unfortunate events that can cause the CO2 levels to spike, accidentally having the levels too low is not a safety risk as far as I can see.
I think that anyone who uses injected CO2 on a tank with livestock in it owes it to them to at least briefly mentally run through the different scenarios that can play out if "x thing gets stuck", "x thing is suddenly abnormal" and so on. Unexpected events are just that, unexpected, but we can try to design a system that will be as robust towards accidents as is feasible.
But I digress.

So I like a clear surface, thats established. What I dont like is running the skimmer while the CO2 is injected. There is only one reason for this.
Most skimmers have some very moveable parts. Moveable parts are more likely to fail, and skimmer failure is one of the accidents I see most commonly reported in aquascaping circles.
Skimmer failure also tends to lead to quite a lot of devastation compared to what a skimmer actually does (its function is not inherently vital for survival of fish).
But when your injection rate is set to account for the very vigorous offgassing produced by a skimmer, and your skimmer suddenly decides to not participate in that balance any more, you suddenly have a huge problem on your hands. The CO2 levels can spike high enough to be lethal, and this is not something I have just thought up in my mind, I have seen the tragic reports 😢
So while the extra offgassing and oxygen introduced with having a skimmer running concurrently with CO2 is a nice thing, for me I find the risk of a malfunction and spike too high compared to the benefits.
Ive been running my skimmer with the CO2 for a while now but it has never sat right with me, and im changing it to run only at night from now.
The skimmer is still likely to have a minor or major malfunction, but since it is not a direct part of the injection vs offgassing balance, its role is much less critical.
Now it only has to keep the surface clean, and if it malfunctions, the surface scum will likely need several days to build up before it has a chance to impact anything.

So when im feeling up for it I will take out the airstone and put in the faithful SunSun skimmer again, but this time with modification ala Wookii.
I think ill use the top that I have removed the bars from perhaps. I believe I have exactly the same mesh that Wookii uses, its a bit thinner and has slightly smaller holes than another black mesh from Ebay I have tried before. If anyone is still reading at this point, I would greatly appreciate if you could say a silent prayer for me that this time it finally works 100% satisfactory, and I will be able to be at peace, a conclusion to the skimmer saga is a long time coming.
If it still doesnt work I am having thoughts about bagging up my idiotic adventurous shrimp and sending them all post haste to Wookii, and then he can deal with them :twisted:
 
I put a lot of thought into how I can use CO2 injection in my tank while mitigating some of the risks that it carries.

Assuming you have a dual stage regulator, the only other main potential failure point (other than human error, which is probably the main one) could be the needle valve, so running dual valves can mitigate that. I have the el-chaepo CO2 art needle valve set just slightly above the output I want, and then the decent Camozzi Precision needle valve after it setting the real CO2 flow levels. If either one fails, the other should limit output. I guess there is a tiny risk of the second stage valve on the regulator failing and the increase in out pressure increasing the injection rate, but I can't say ever read of that happening.

On the skimmer, can you not just increase the surface agitation from your spray bar? I don't tend to use surface skimmers anymore, and rely on the main filter outlet to provide sufficient surface agitation (often physically breaking the surface layer) to prevent surface film forming. I get a bit of film in between floating plants, but they're usually so dense I can't see it.
 
I keep forgetting things that I have wanted to include in my posts, im sorry for spamming the forum so much :sick:

Two things I forgot in the last one:
I dosed a capful of Fe gluconate yesterday, just to get the plants on their feet after the water change a little quicker. One capful is about 5 ml, so for my tank that makes 0.2 ppm.
Not planning to do this every week, just wanted to see if it would help things along a bit. I looked at the stargrass which is a very fast grower and thought it could use a little tasty pick-me-up. As my tank develops over the years I have found that my sense of when something is a little off or needs a bit of so and so is also improving. Im a big fan of going with ones gut feeling when that is reasonable.

When I was looking over the light spectrum I also changed the percentages on the channels a bit, all of them now run at 70%. No spike in red and no lower on blue. Subject to change again.
In a while I am planning to increase the total percentage Hufsa-gradually, not right now because theres been several changes including longer photoperiod, but when things settle down again I might go to 80% and monitor, and then 90% etc. I think ive just been hanging around @JoshP12 too much 😁 The Fluval 3.0's arent terribly powerful lights anyway, so running 100% in this case is much less hardcore than it is for Chihiros or Week users. But if things start going sideways I always have the option to go back down again.


Assuming you have a dual stage regulator, the only other main potential failure point (other than human error, which is probably the main one) could be the needle valve, so running dual valves can mitigate that. I have the el-chaepo CO2 art needle valve set just slightly above the output I want, and then the decent Camozzi Precision needle valve after it setting the real CO2 flow levels. If either one fails, the other should limit output. I guess there is a tiny risk of the second stage valve on the regulator failing and the increase in out pressure increasing the injection rate, but I can't say ever read of that happening.
Nice, very good input thank you. I have the same setup as you for needle valves, I would only need to check where the el-cheapo is sitting before readjusting with the Camozzi and then that part would also be gone over :thumbup:
On the skimmer, can you not just increase the surface agitation from your spray bar? I don't tend to use surface skimmers anymore, and rely on the main filter outlet to provide sufficient surface agitation (often physically breaking the surface layer) to prevent surface film forming. I get a bit of film in between floating plants, but they're usually so dense I can't see it.
I could try, my top spray bar is due for refurbishing anyway, and I think I want it sitting higher on the back wall. I think there will still be film in the corners though.

If the level of surface film stayed the same at all times it wouldnt really be an issue, but what if for instance I put in a big piece of fresh redmoor, and accidentally cause a big microbe bloom. This exact thing has happened to me, I dont remember if I had thick surface scum in addition to the very heavily clouded water, but those kinds of "oops" situations are ones im thinking about when im trying to design a relatively safe system.
In such a situation the skimmer would clear any sudden increase in surface scum and make sure that the offgassing remains where it needs to be.
Maybe some will laugh at me for thinking so much about this, but I would rather overthink when it comes to the safety aspect than underthink.


Speaking of CO2 in general, im not satisfied with the Yidao reactor and I am planning to replace it. Theres been a few incidents where I have struggled to get a good seal on it after maintenance, leading to many hours late into the night of swearing while sitting on wet towels around the cabinet, and the reactor itself doesnt seem capable of fully dealing with the injection rate and flow that I have on my system.
Ive implemented the internal venturi modification and that bit, but im still seeing some microbubbles escaping into the tank, and im getting a fair bit of gas bubble build up in the top of the reactor.
Basically not happy with the build quality of the reactor or the capacity. I will probably be making a DIY one, but havent decided exactly what design to go for yet. I think I need a bypass as well if I want to have it running on a powerful pump. Im very tempted to run the CO2 injection on its own loop with just a pump, no filter that can vary the flow through that part of the system. The pump and reactor would then drive the top spray bar and be responsible for the majority of the surface agitation. Im wondering if I should buy the pump first and then design the rest around it, I want a reputable brand pump since this would be the heart of the tank, and I think it needs to be adjustable somehow so I wont get too much flow in the tank either.
Appreciate any ideas from you guys 🙂
 
Oh no @Hufsa - be careful hanging around me 😂. You’ll end up doing crazy things.

I will say, I see nothing bad that can happen to increasing light.

So you increase light, and maybe you need more co2, so you turn it up; then you don’t need as much ramp since you have higher injection rate, so you shave 30 minutes and your fish are subject to less co2 without lights on … if still issues, more agitation (more gas exchange, more stability), higher injection rate, less ramp, more, constant flow of co2 - happy plants? More O2, more pH stability management - happier fish.

😂

Oh and nicer plant forms and water column cleaned faster …

You could prepare a month before by adding root tabs just to be sure it won’t be nutrient related …
 
I think ur right that this solution may not be aesthetically pleasing to everyone @RLee2 but then again many people use clear tubing for their spray bars so the Co2 tube would need no more or less cleaning than those presumably.

Whilst it’s an additional element, Co2 diffusers and reactors all need a certain level of cleaning and we all know folks that complain about having to bleach ceramic diffusers to keep them working properly etc so it’s horses for courses I guess.

I have external heaters and reactors for aesthetic reasons as much as anything but still have gyres and spray bars for practical reasons. There’s always a compromise somewhere eh! 😊
 
?: There is an issue with the sand now that im pulling out plants so often. The bank of sand is sliding down in record time, and the layer of sand in the back covering the mesh bags is getting so thin its becoming hard to plant in. The crypts in the front also keep getting slightly buried in increasing amounts of sand. I need to remove the mesh bags of pebbles banking the substrate in the back, and get the tank set up with a perfectly level substrate. It wont be the best for visual depth but it will keep the sand from jumping around all over the place in the long run.
I was supposed to take it easy this week but instead I ended up doing this whopper of a job on wednesday.
Ive known this needed doing and been dreading the job for months, as I knew it was going to be an all day kind of task.
Theres never a "good time" to completely turn your tank on its head, aside from if you happen to need to move the tank anyway.
So when I felt the slightest urge to begin the job on wednesday I knew the inclination wouldnt come again any time soon, and just started pulling out plants and doing it.
It didnt take me long to regret starting it but half the plants were already out so I just needed to push on with it and get it done once and for all.
I started around 10:00 and wasnt finished putting everything back until 23:00 :dead:

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I was torn whether I thought keeping the "aged detritus" in the sand was a beneficial thing for my tank or whether it was detrimental.
My plan was to just skim off the topmost layer of sand and then carefully pull out the bags of gravel from under the sand.
It quickly became apparent that this wasnt going to work, so I ended up using a hose and siphon to vacuum all of the sand out, bucket by bucket, until the gravel bags appeared.
I have previously added a few cups of coarser sand to see how I liked the look of a mixed substrate, and for some reason I really love this look in other peoples tanks but not my own.
I dont know why. I will probably try to create the look again some time in the future, but this time definitely not adding it to the tank until I am 100% sure I like it!
Also, having mixed sand sizes works poorly on a banked substrate with sifting fish, because the biggest sizes will very quickly just settle in a layer at the lowest area of surface / front, ruining the mixed effect.
So I wanted to run my sand through a fine sieve/mesh to get the larger grains out and return to the uniform and clean look.
I kept the livestock in the tank and worked in one half at a time so they could hide out in the other.
My neocaridina were annoyingly not very interested in hiding, and had to constantly be herded away from the area I was working in to avoid vacuuming them.
They go absolutely crazy for the black/brown thing that grows in the sand along the pane of the glass, and as soon as a new bit of it was uncovered they were swarming over it to gobble it up.
I ended up grabbing a few big chunks of it for them and placing it away from the construction zone so they could have a lovely little picnic without getting in my way. This worked really well.

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I washed my sand in the shower with aquarium temperature water. Enough to get most of the detritus out, but my goal was not to clean the sand, just to give it a refresher.
There was a fair amount of dirt particles in the sand despite the small grain size.
I have gotten more respect for the processes and microbes that live in a substrate since I joined UKAPS, and I already felt guilty about turning the entire microbial assemblage on their heads.
I imagine that the microbes that live in the top 3mm of the substrate do not like living 30mm down in the substrate, and vice versa. So while everyone will need to reestablish themselves where they like to live, I wanted to at least make sure enough of them made it alive through the rinsing process to make sure they can bounce back within a couple of weeks time perhaps. So no hot or ice cold water.
Also most of my Thiara(?) sand snails were present through the process, and while these are really hardy snails I didnt want to be too mean to them.
After the rinsing of the sand I ran it bit by bit through a sieve I had which worked well to sort out larger grains, the few bits of detritus and old plant roots, weird black/brown yummy algae flakes and any snails. This was a lot of work and took hours.

I was quite pleasantly surprised by how well the substrate bags had held up, they have kept the very fine grain sand (0.1-0.5mm) out but still had a good smell to them, a faint smell of filter sponge.
I wasnt sure how much movement/circulation would get down through such fine particles. There was some very very fine dust that had made its way into the bags, but I imagine this has been a very slow process. This sand has been mostly undisturbed for about a year and a half if my memory serves. There were no black areas in the main part of the sand even in the deepest layers, no gas pockets or anything like that.
The only area that had any smell or gas pockets is the biome/band that had established on the edge of the substrate on the front glass and the right side of the tank.
We have discussed this layer before in my journal.
Its very interesting to see that this layer is almost entirely missing on the left side of the tank.
The left side does not get any sunlight or much light from the ambient lamps.
The very front left corner gets a little bit of light from the ceiling lamp in the other room, you can see a few smudges on the glass in the picture below.
This leads me to conclude that the band is made up of primarily photosynthetic organisms.

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A while ago (late june) I removed this bacteria/algae band from the front right side of the tank, and left the front left side. Mostly just to see what would happen :geek:
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It didnt take long for me to see the band starting to grow back, it didnt creep out from the left, it just gradually faded back in again.
By now, about 3 months later it was almost back to the same thickness as the side that was not removed.
This band is comprised mainly of the "black/brown thing" that the shrimp and snails find so delicious, with a few small pockets of true Cyanobacteria sprinkled in here and there. Towards the very top of the band there is also a bit of green algae. This band seems entirely harmless to me, and it does not spread into the main bit of the substrate, it only grows right against the glass.
I slightly prefer the look of the tank without it, but having the band there doesnt bother me enough that I feel like regularly cleaning it to keep it away either.
Since I was taking all the sand out I scraped the glass clean down to the bottom on all sides while I had free access to it. I found it interesting how the black/brown thing can be slided off with a finger, while the true Cyanobacteria is attached much firmer and needed the algae scraper to come off.

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There was no wonder I was struggling to replant stems before, the substrate thickness in the most problematic corner (back right) only had about 2cm of sand left to plant into.
Its going to be so much easier from now on, now I have a good depth of sand all the way over the substrate. I have lost a bit of visual depth now that the substrate is flat, but this is a much better long term solution for a tank that gets this much replanting. The fineness of the sand and the livestock that I keep definitely contributed to sand sliding down the bank, but it wasnt until I started uprooting and replanting so frequently, that the sliding really accelerated.
A flat substrate is definitely the way to go for this setup.

After shot:
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A few of the plant groups have just been shoved in for now, its friday and my body is still hurting all over, so im doing a little bit per day.
In the back right you can see the bottom spray bar, this one was right above the back of the substrate before. And when the tank was originally set up, the right side filter intake sat right above the sand.
Needless to say the back of the tank is a lot deeper down now.
Ive gotten rid of the Ludwigia palustris 'Super Red', it is too rowdy, I have enough red plants and I can easily reacquire this if I regret it (but I dont think I will).
Hygrophila polysperma is also gone, its too much work to keep in check and too large growing, and it is less useful as a chlorosis indicator than Heteranthera zosterifolia.
Ludwigia inclinata var. verticillata 'Cuba', im thinking of moving this one out of the tank and into an emersed culture.
Theres too many yellow/orange plants, and this one was always on my list of plants to remove eventually. Dont want to let it go completely though, therefore emersed culture.

Later on I have plans to remove:
Rotala rotundifolia 'H’ra'. My idea about using it as a nitrate indicator wasnt quite as useful as I thought it would be, and like I mentioned my tank is too heavy on the orange/yellow/red.
I want to take a comparison picture of Orange Juice, H'ra, and Blood Red SG grown side by side in the same tank, and after that I am thinking of removing the H'ra.
Heteranthera zosterifolia: Removing this one when the chlorosis issues have been thoroughly sorted, until then it makes a great indicator plant. Have Syngonanthus on my wish list which will bring some of this kind of bright green color back in to my tank later on.
Some crypts: Need to downsize crypt collection, have to grow them out big enough to tolerate shipping first. Most of the crypts currently still upset with me, this weeks upheaval probably wont help, but might as well get all the disturbances out of the way eh.


Now that the substrate is sorted I can also do an overhaul of the spraybars, intakes and general plumbing, as well as look closer into how I can implement the CO2 spraybar for testing 😃
 
wow thats a lot of work 😵 I think its a good call to remove the H'ra. Coincidentally I have a few stems of oranges growing with my Rotala SG and I think they make a nice colour contrast even though the leaf shape is the same.
 
wow thats a lot of work 😵
It sure was :inpain: Glad to have it done and over with though!

Coincidentally I have a few stems of oranges growing with my Rotala SG and I think they make a nice colour contrast even though the leaf shape is the same.
Yeah, I quite like the slightly fatter/wider leaf shape on Orange Juice and Blood Red SG 😃
Never been a fan of the thinnest leaved stems actually 🤔, main reason I dont go for any of the Wallichii types

Felt great to have just the little extra space gained by booting out Super Red and polysperma, now im looking for more things I dont "need" just to have that feeling again :twisted:
Probably should start planning the next tank upgrade at the rate this plant collection is increasing 😅
 
My tank has been running really hot these past days, a smidge over 27 degrees and I just couldnt figure out why.
We had turned the heat up in the apartment a little bit, so I was first wondering if it was somehow retaining the heat that well since its a big tank, or what else could be going on.

Well, it turns out I had plugged the inline heater into the cooling socket of the inkbird temperature controller :facepalm::crazy:😅
So every time the controller sensed the tank was running a bit hotter than target, it turned on the cooling socket which then erroneously turned on the heater.
The inline heater was set to stop at 27 degrees as a safety precaution, so has been maintaining the tank at that temperature.
Im glad I had two thermostats on the system, even though this is not a way I was expecting a malfunction in (in this case I was the malfunctioning piece) 😅
Got everything plugged in the way its supposed to now, so expecting the tank to return to the normal 23-24 degrees.

Poor tank is really seeing a lot of fluctuations these days, first the turning down the CO2 because the skimmer is no longer running during the day, and now running several days at much higher temperatures.
BBA is going wild, same with GSA, and when I switched the micro mix the green thread algae really seemed to pick up.
In this case im not interpreting the increase in green thread algae as a bad thing, because the plants are looking greener from what I can tell (at least the Tonina tips).
So an increase in green algae could be a signal that overall plant growth conditions have improved, since green algae and plants are so closely related. At least this was a pattern I was seeing this summer.
But a lot of them seem unhappy about the CO2 fluctuations, both Rotala rotundifolia OJ and BR SG are doing some tip stunting, and rotundifolia is not normally a species to complain about minor issues.
I cant remember if ive already written about this in the journal, so apologies if I have, my memory is really not what it used to.
The Tonina is greener in the tips but smaller and looking a little weird. Pantanal has stunted again of course, but that doesnt really mean much, it stunts if I just look at it too hard 😁
So far increasing K has not stopped the Marilia from shedding just an insane amount of old leaves. Theres probably at least 30 old leaves floating around this morning, and thats just from over night.
Its this specific plant that seems to just be extremely prone to shedding old leaves.
There are symptoms of decaying old leaves in some of the other plants, but none of them are releasing any leaves from it, and certainly not at the sheer speed the Marilia does.
I need to let things run for longer before forming any theories, things definitely havent been stable (carbon is a mobile macronutrient) so could definitely produce symptoms like that.

Will try to grab some pictures of the plant growth soon, but first I need to fish out all these leaves and pull out some of this thread algae 😊
As long as no plant species are dying, im ok with having a few bumps in the road, its all part of the journey after all.
 
Well, it turns out I had plugged the inline heater into the cooling socket of the inkbird temperature controller :facepalm::crazy:😅
So every time the controller sensed the tank was running a bit hotter than target, it turned on the cooling socket which then erroneously turned on the heater.
The inline heater was set to stop at 27 degrees as a safety precaution, so has been maintaining the tank at that temperature.

Oh wow - that was a lucky escape! Imagine if you'd just maxed out the temperature setting on the inline unit - that's be a cooked tank!
 
Oh wow - that was a lucky escape! Imagine if you'd just maxed out the temperature setting on the inline unit - that's be a cooked tank!
Yep, could have gotten quite a bit hotter if I had just maxed it out as you say. When I set up the inline I intentionally set it slightly above the target temperature of the inkbird, the idea was that if the inkbird failed, the inline would cap out the damage that could be done. Having the inline set to max temperature would pretty much void the usefulness of having two points of temperature control.
The inkbird is wonderful though and the first day it hit 27.5 or something it sounded an alarm and I became aware that there was abnormally high temp in the tank. I just didn't look closely enough at where the plugs were sitting, I just kept monitoring the temperature readout to see if it kept rising, which it did not. So there was about two days of being a bit puzzled before I spotted the issue 😅

Im gonna block off the cooling socket with something safe and keep it like that in the winter season when the fans aren't mounted on the tank, that should prevent my fog brain from making this same mistake again
 
The inkbird is wonderful though and the first day it hit 27.5 or something it sounded an alarm

Yeah they are good - mine used to like going off at 2am if I forget to turn the pump back on, which is joyous! Until I set the Tapo up with a couple of additional on times.

Maybe put a piece of masking tape over the cooling socket so you don’t make the mistake again?
 
Maybe put a piece of masking tape over the cooling socket so you don’t make the mistake again?
Masking tape installed 👌

Will also pay more attention to the "Hufsa-proofing" aspect of tank security 😅
Usually havent been a problem but when im so tired and not entirely 100%, user error is a bit more likely.

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FTS, had to take it on a bit of a slant, as some of the plant groups are newly trimmed and very short.
Ludwigia glandulosa and Ludwigia polycarpa look very cute next to each other, they look almost the same except for the color 😊
Dont pay attention to the blurple hue, phone camera was acting up. It seems to pick a hue at random, between yellow, pink, neutral or purple. I wonder if the multicolored LED lights are confusing it.
There is no actual blurple allowed in my house :twisted:

Ive done a little bit of work on the plumbing, the bottom spray bar has been lowered and cleaned, same with the right hand intake. Still grey PVC pipe as that is what I have on hand, its terribly difficult / almost impossible to find black PVC pipes in metric sizes, even inch sizes are super rare. And then if you find the pipes you wont see any fittings. But one seller on Aliexpress has recently started stocking black fittings as well, and I think with the amount of algae im having to scrub off the bars on a regular basis these days, having solid black instead of spray painted pipes would be a big advantage. I dont think the spray painted ones will be able to withstand the scrubbing needed to get off BBA without also removing the paint.
Im still talking to the seller trying to work out if custom ordering 1meter pieces instead of the regular 50cm ones will work out within my budget. Its a bit slow going because of the timezone difference.
The top spray bar has also been dilligently cleaned and mounted a bit higher, it now sits right below the surface and points mostly straight ahead instead of up.
Its not visible in the picture but rest assured it is also a very luminous grey color still :lol:
Finally getting black plumbing after procrastinating for years is gonna be soooo nice. I hate the grey plumbing I just always go for function before form, and sometimes form is a little lottle late :lol:

Unfortunately I have some bad news (again again again), a couple of days ago I spotted a couple of shrimp with Scutariella 🤬😭😭
I was so sure I had beat them this time :banghead: The tank has been treated every other week since early june through to mid september, so three and a half months of treatment, and the shrimp have been visually free/clear for months. I did add the Caridina shrimp this fall, but somehow I dont think they brought in the parasite again.
They were visually free of parasites but I probably should have quarantined them regardless. Setting up a quarantine tank was just more than I had the energy for at the time.

When I saw the white parasites again on a couple of Neocaridina I just wanted to lie down on the floor and cry.. Im so so tired of dealing with this 😢
One of the really dumb things about being an adult is that lying down on the floor and crying doesnt help anything and just gives you a headache in addition to your original problem that you will still have to deal with on your own when youre done on the floor.
So instead while I was dying internally I contemplated if I was going to stop keeping shrimp altogether and cull the entire colony.
Its not like I could rehome them when they carry what must be a strain of Scutariella resistant to Praziquantel.
Even though I said I would before, I couldnt bring myself to do it.
I took a few days just to gather the strength to do anything about it.
I decided to dose the tank with Genchem No Planaria, and hoping it will finally do the trick. I must use something different and hopefully stronger than Prazi.
The problem with No Planaria is that it could kill all of the snails and render the substrate more or less permanently uninhabitable for burrowing snails.
My desire to keep my beloved snails and not have problems with the substrate has precluded me from using quite a few of the medications used for Scutariella.
But at this point I just cant any more. So I gave the tank slightly below full dose and will just have to deal with whatever the outcome is.
This parasite infestation has been an absolute joykiller and really puts a damper on the enjoyment I get from the other aspects of the tank 😓
As long as they are still a problem I cant truly relax and just enjoy the shrimp.

I dosed the first dose yesterday evening and so far the snails seem to be ok. I think I could be owed a little bit of luck in this situation.
Most of the sand snails are below the substrate in daytime, im pretty sure they know when the CO2 is on, and most of them hide away until the PH goes back to a less damaging level for their shells.
Maybe they can also sense the medication. I hope they pull through..
 
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