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Consistency Deficiency

A lot of pics in this one, sorry in advance for the rambling 😅
New FTS with the trimming that has been done on the right hand side.
I had to slow the roll on the Bolbitis from Darrel too, the biggest leaf I took off the one in the center measured 25 cm, I wonder how big they are planning to get?
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Before the above FTS, the right hand corner had turned into this very lush and thick group of Blyxa japonica, Myriophyllum sp. Guyana and Pogostemon helferi.
The noodles were loving it, and spent most of their time snaking about in the thick undergrowth.
I even got this blurry picture of the very illusive Long Serpent. He is a beautiful fish, his sides shine a bright silvery golden color when the light hits it.
Shortly after this photo was taken he spotted me and darted off as usual 😅

Unfortunately sometimes when things are looking the most grown in and beautiful is also the time when trimming needs to be done. Im not gonna lie I really preferred how this corner looked before the trim, but the Blyxa was smushed up right against the glass, and the growth was beginning to choke itself out and rotting. The noodles were immensely offended when I started pulling out plants, and were shouting something about habitat destruction and violation of rights as they were darting for cover in other (obviously subpar) parts of the tank. I expect they will be calling for my resignation as town mayor any day now.

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Tonina is a nice plant. Very nice. I didnt know what to expect when I got this one for the first time, the stems look like they might be very delicate, but they are actually quite wooden and strong. This plant is super well behaved, it grows straight up without any funny business. I never quite understood why people were talking about "well behaved" plants, or plants that are not very well behaved. But I sure understand now. Its so much easier to keep Tonina under control than say, Ludwigia palustris "Super Red", which branches and leans and goes every which way, shading its neighbors and generally being rowdy.
A lot of the time I find myself needing to trim a group of plants not because they are that overgrown, but rather because they are growing the wrong way or leaning and making some other plant unhappy. "Super Red" is a repeat offender and im thinking about getting rid of it entirely.

Earlier this week I got a package of plants from a very kind hobbyist. Ive been wanting Rotala rotundifolia "Blood Red SG" for a while, and Im fairly confident that this is the first time this plant is even in the country.
Unfortunately they had a pretty bad time in transit, and much of the plantmass was wilted.
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But, in the very tips I saw some growth that looked like it might still have life left in it.
Hoping for a small miracle I carefully cleaned off the wilted leaves. Many of the stems were still firm, which is a good sign.
I put the mostly bare stems in my tank and hoped for the best. My shrimp went right to work and cleaned off any remaining dead tissue.
Its a little bit early to call it yet, but I think they may make it 😍
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I love Ludwigia sp. Marilia, have I mentioned it before? Maybe a couple of times 😅
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Bacopa caroliniana "Colorata" is starting to put on some color. Seems like a very uncomplicated plant so far.
Im not sure if ive even kept a Bacopa species before, they havent really interested me. But the whole family seem to be unfussy plants.
The difference between the "Colorata" variety and regular caroliniana is how pink they get and how easily they will do so.
Colorata will get solid pink in higher light, while caroliniana mostly gets pink on the tops only.

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A stem of Pantanal, these are still not stable long term in my tank. This one came from the windowsill not too long ago.
The ones that were doing well a month ago stunted really badly after the trim and replant and most of them didnt recover.
Im very glad to have a backup culture of this plant.


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The stems of L. glandulosa I got turned huge in diameter as expected, and I decided to keep just one stem because of the limited space. I really need one more meter of tank length to comfortably keep all of these plants of mine.
This one is recently replanted here, lets see how it tolerates being kept relatively short as a midground plant :geek:
It was located in front of the Crypt spiralis Red before, but they were almost the same color and looked terrible next to each other. At least until glandulosa decides to be more purple it needed to be moved somewhere else.
Its voicing its general displeasure at my current regime by twisting of the leaves. I have observed this symptom in several plant species over the past month.
Im not going to try to diagnose what is causing this specifically, because im not convinced that this is a productive thing to attempt to do.
Instead im going to focus on fixing the things that I already know are not where they need to be with my tank.
CO2 levels have not been stable because I havent been able to stay on top of evaporation, and I also feel like the flow in the tank is not quite where it used to be.
For example the bottom spray bar definitely needs to receive its ahem annual cleaning :sorry:
The intake strainers are also super nasty and havent been cleaned in a while which definitely could affect flow.
There is of course also the lingering micro issue, although we are closer to solving it.

Sometimes you just have to do one thing at a time, and thats ok.
I have been dividing the plant trimming into more moderate sessions as im catching back up with tank maintenance, and still have a few bits left to do like cleaning the plumbing and another water change.
The water is pink right now which may be showing up in a few of the pictures.

In the bottom right of the above pic you can spot the Ludwigia polycarpa. The yellow color is still developing, but im liking this species so far.
It leans a bit but doesnt seem fussy. This one has also been showing a bit of twisting leaves like the glandulosa.
Its super stout and bushy and makes a perfect midground plant. I originally had three growing but needed more space as usual, so cut down to one.

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Hygrophila pinnatifida "Uttara Kannada" is going well, had its first trim last week, I brutally cut any runner going somewhere its not supposed to, and took out all the main vertical shoots, but it looks like I missed one.
So far this plant seems super easy, sure is a contrast to how much difficulty I had when trying it low tech. I did hear that invitro or even better tank grown specimens are easier to take into low tech than emersed stems, and the latter is what I tried back then. It might have given me better odds but it does seem like this one just really wanted the CO2.
Its gonna be "fun" attempting to keep this one localized to the relatively small bit of wood it is attached to.
On the spray bar you can see a smattering of green spot algae and tiny beginnings of some serious BBA.
I havent really struggled a lot with green spot algae before, not that I can recall anyway. Ill be monitoring the amount of green spot with interest as my tank develops and goes through various changes :geek:

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Have a fair bit of BBA as well, im currently ignoring it as best I can, and have decided to focus on other more pressing matters. My hope is that the BBA will just happen to disappear as I solve some of the other problems.
In the picture are my three biggest varieties of Bucephalandra, top one is Pearl Grey, right middle is Silver Grey and bottom left is Dark Achilles / Kishii / Skeleton King / etc.
These three are really coming into their own despite the unsightly BBA. They dont seem to respond to trimming the same or grow quite like the smaller varieties.
I have decided to treat them as rosette plants in a way, and they seem to like this. Ive had three flowers from the Pearl Grey and one from the Silver Grey. I pinched the latest round off as I would rather have more leaves.
They are getting really massive and I think they will be just stunning once the BBA stops growing. I especially like the color of new leaves on the Dark Achilles, they have an orange bronze ish hue and they glitter/shine in metallic orange, yellow and green that is more or less impossible to capture on a still photo. It contrasts really beautifully with the steely grey of the mature leaves.

Various plant health pics:
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As you can see amongst other things the Tonina is really not a great color, but I am grateful that it is at least surviving ok despite the issue.
So its an issue but its not a "whole house is on fire" kind of issue. This gives me a lot more time to work on it.

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The Rotala macrandra Mini Type 4 is growing ok, it doesnt look good but its not dying. (Talk about low standards :lol: )
Color is not there, and theres a bit of curling and crumpling of the leaves.
This plant got the shortest straw and is not in a good position in the tank. Its way out on the right edge so flow is not super strong, light is not super strong and it has two really easy and happy neighbors in front of it that are super thick and block even more flow when they grow in. As if that wasnt enough it the creepy polysperma behind it keeps leaning over and breathing down its neck. A lot of the trimming I do of the Guyana and Polysperma is to keep them from infringing on the other plants around them. Guyana doesnt lean too badly it just gets super dense and branches a lot naturally.

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RIP favorite kuhlii loach hangout corner. In the bottom left there is one bit of Ammannia pedicellata 'Golden' that decided to do a little bit of growing, but its probably not going to last.
I cleaned up some of the old growth around it and maybe the reshoots will do better. This plant seems to rely on its roots a lot which is why I havent disturbed the bushes in a while.
Kudos for not dying though, it looks absolutely hideous and it doesnt grow, but it stays around at least 😅 The yellow plant on the very bottom is a small bit of Cuba.
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Cryptocoryne & friends corner is an absolute mess with tiny plants and BBA everywhere. Most of the big crypts are still sulking from being moved over here, a fair bit of general unhappiness. Interestingly I dont really seem to get melting plants in my tank, not even melting from these quite angry crypts. All the crypts I have have either already melted and regrown when they arrived at the pet store (all the Borneo ones), or came from invitro and didnt go through any melt. I have not purchased an emersed crypt yet, it would be interesting to see if that kind would also not melt.

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I picked up around five small mystery crypts from my LFS a little while back, they were all from the tanks that contained the borneo crypts, but they were all way too small to tell which kinds they were.
Three of them have pulled ahead a little bit and seem to be growing a bit faster than the others. They are the type with the dark green slightly bullate leaf like the one in the center of the image.
I think the three dark green ones may be the kind that came in with the label "Sparta". It has been very difficult to find any information about this trade name, I have only managed to track down two or three pictures.
It seems to be a reddish brown to dark green crypt with long relatively slender leaves and strongly bullate leaf surface.
The fourth crypt looks like it might be another one of the "Queen Vandom" type, or perhaps the kind called "Nensies".
These names have also been very hard to find info about, but it seems like "Queen Vandom" and "Nensies" may be somewhat similar in appearance.
The fifth one is still too small to make any guesstimations.

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The Bucephalandra BG2011/12 is doing fine and seems to be working overtime to pay back its debts to me. In addition to the main growing point its started three more along the older sections of the rhizome.
I have noticed sometimes the Buce seems to do this if you place the rhizome sideways or slightly upside down.
Im thinking of moving this one now so it gets more light and speeds up its growth a bit, but potentially having it covered in BBA makes me nervous. Then again there is BBA in this shaded corner also so I might as well.

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Hymenasplenium obscurum has grown a nice big leaf and I hope the next one will be even bigger. I have plans to have a large group of this fern in the area in front of the Crypt spiralis Red, although it will need a root to sit on to prop it up a little.

I mentioned that I have a few new plants as well, they were ordered at the same time as the ones from the previous spree, but for various reasons took a little longer to arrive. They are;
Pteridophyta sp. "Niah"
Didymoglossum sp. "Buea Goliath" (I refuse to call this one Bolbitis sp. as that is just ridiculous)
Bucephalandra Moss
Fissidens sp. Miroshaki
Fissidens sp. Mallorca
+ no less than three gifts;
Crepidomanes sp. Vietnam II
Crystal Moss
Fissidens Nagasaki (I passed this one on to another moss collector as I already have quite a lot of Fissidens)

The following pictures are absolutely terrible and I refuse to retake them 😁
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Both these Crepidomanes need better homes soon(TM)

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Im very interested to see how some of these new "ferns" grow, like do they cling to the wood like Bolbitis and Java ferns do?

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An interesting thing about Bolbitis heteroclita "Cuspidata" (that regular Bolbitis heudelotii cannot do), is that it can grow new plantlets from old fronds.
You may be able to spot some of the plantlets, especially the one on the very right.

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The bit of much anticipated Fissidens sp. Miroshaki has been spread out on its own coconut, while the Fissidens sp Mallorca is bunking with Crepidomanes Vietnam II and Bucephalandra Moss.
Fissidens Miroshaki & Mallorca and Bucephalandra Moss & Crystal Moss seem like two pairs that seem quite similar. I know there is a subtle difference between Buce and Crystal moss, the former is slightly bigger and the latter is a bit more crinkly somehow. The Miroshaki and Mallorca I have found to be hard to tell apart in pictures, so I will be very interested to see how they both develop in my tank. Unless they turn out very distinct there is a high likelihood that I will pick my favorite kind from each pair and sell off the other.
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The Anubias Mini Coin is doing well too, im letting it grow out a bit more. I want the pieces that I snip off to be big enough to be replanted on the coconut, so it needs a bit more time.
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Vesicularia sp. "Tortoise" has grown out of the mesh, it really needs a trim if I want it to grow more branched and bushy. Its on my to-do list 😇
Im thinking of putting Weeping Moss back in the tank so I can compare the two. Maybe another piece to put on the glass 😘
 
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The tank is looking superb!!!

I’m going to have to agree with you on tonina being well behaved! It really is a joy to work with, if you like it, may I suggest ludwigia senegalensis, grows straight up and doesn’t make sideshoots easily.
now.

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How long did it take to do this😱 I’m never as careful lol
Hygrophila pinnatifida "Uttara Kannada" is going well, had its first trim last week, I brutally cut any runner going somewhere its
sAfe to say you got revenge on the pinnatafida?
Bacopa caroliniana "Colorata"
I have my doubts on this one, looks suspiciously like Caroliniana. Colorata should be more solid coloured IMO.
the bottom left there is one bit of Ammannia pedicellata 'Golden' that decided to do a little bit of growing, but its probably not going to last.
That pedicellata looks promising!
Its a little bit early to call it yet, but I think they may make it 😍
those look 👍 . Safe to say they’ll do great.
The Anubias Mini Coin is
so cute and tiny!!!! I might get these, a bit pricy tho.

Not too much to say about the moss, except, calm it down a little. Moss hoarding goblin😂(affectionately of course)
 
Wow, so much stuff going on. I still think you must secretly have 6 tanks to fit all those lovelies in.

Now you just need to work up an alias and start wearing hoodies, so the noodle protection society can’t track you down. 😊
 
The tank is looking superb!!!
Very kind of you to say so 🥰
Ive been a bit unhappy about how much yellow and orange there is in my tank compared to green, it doesnt help that the water turns pink and some of the greenest green plants are chlorotic.
To help this a little bit I have decided to downsize some of the non green plant groupings, and increase some of the green ones.
I really like the individual colorful stemplant species but I think they always look best when they are contrasted with a lot of nice shades of green.
It really is a symptom of trying to fit too many shinies into too small of a space though.
I have a few very nice green-green plants on my wish list still, and I think once I get my greedy paws on them (and you all know I will eventually), the tank will look even better.
Im quite liking the dark side / light side layout that has evolved over time, it started as a matter of practicality but I found that I quite like it and want to keep going with that.

I’m going to have to agree with you on tonina being well behaved! It really is a joy to work with, if you like it, may I suggest ludwigia senegalensis, grows straight up and doesn’t make sideshoots easily.
Yess, this one is on my list, mainly because I think the brick red color and pattern on the leaves look neato.
I dont pick which plants I like based on if they are well behaved or not, but it sure doesnt hurt when the ones I like are also well behaved 😁

How long did it take to do this😱 I’m never as careful lol
I usually need several hours each time I trim my tank, I think I am just quite slow (and methodical perhaps). Some of the plant species get the bottom leaves removed before replanting, but not all of them because life is just too short for the smallest and fiddliest leaves. Sorting them by height also takes a while, im practicing my replanting skills and trying to get the groups to look nice on replanting.

sAfe to say you got revenge on the pinnatafida?
Yeah! Unless it spontaneously dies tomorrow then I think its safe to say Ive made pinnatifida my beach :twisted:
I have my doubts on this one, looks suspiciously like Caroliniana. Colorata should be more solid coloured IMO.
Its a tissue culture plant from a very reputable vendor so I think its genuine Colorata. Its taken some time to grow to the right size, and only recently has started getting any color developed.
We should keep in mind my tank is both suffering from the chlorosis issue which impacts coloration, but also running some not super powerful lights at not super powerful percentages 😊

That pedicellata looks promising!
Nah bro I can see it starting to crumple in the newest leaves 😝 Its stunting again soon, ive seen it all before.

so cute and tiny!!!! I might get these, a bit pricy tho.
I think they said if the limited edition Mini Coin sells well enough, then they will bring it back as a regular item and the price will be lower 🤩


Wow, so much stuff going on. I still think you must secretly have 6 tanks to fit all those lovelies in.
I need 6 tanks to fit all those lovelies in 😂 Im dreaming of a 2 meter long planted tank with a 60 cm footprint... 🤤
 
Very kind of you to say so 🥰
really like the individual colorful stemplant species but I think they always look best when they are contrasted with a lot of nice shades of green.
Yeah,,, I definitely suffer from red plant collectoritis… even foreground is red for gods sake lol. Need sum more green, but I also want more demanding stuff🤷‍♂️ Rotala Tulu might be nice.
several hours each time
Sounds about right given the tank size.
Yess, this one is on my list, mainly because I think the brick red color and pattern on the leaves look neato
I need to figure out how to get my senegalensis leaves huge like Raj Mahakul and Dennis Wong…. Lol for now I’m fine with my spindly twigs of ludwigia.
but also running some not super powerful lights at not super powerful percentages 😊
True, true. My Chihiros is going full blast 9 hours.
I think they said if the limited edition Mini Coin sells well enough, then they will bring it back as a regular item and the price will be lower 🤩
Welp might as well get some anyway. Would be a shame if it gets pulled of the shelves.
 
im practicing my replanting skills and trying to get the groups to look nice on replanting.
A small trick I use is:
float all the stems in the tank
Collect them in one hand, with the tops of the stems aligned.
Chop all the bottoms off at a sharp angle with a pair of scissors. While the stems are collected in your hand
If you plant these in order, from the shortest first. You’ll get a Nice slope fairly quickly.
Afterwards I just clean my skimmer and all is good👍
 
love all the plants in the tank and of course, the running commentary! 🙂

Like plantnoobdude, I'm also waiting for someone to tell me how to grow mega-sized Ammannia Senegelansis, I just have thin and spindly stems in my tank.... 2hraquarist says ammonia rich aquasoil so I have been adding osmocote under the stems...

Looking at the Tonina Fluvialitis, it looks ideal for areas of higher water flow that might otherwise cause 'weaker' stems to grow crooked

I have been trying to look for a green plant like R.Macandra Green but its hard to find locally, though all the red variants, mini, butterfly, narrow leaf etc are readily available.
 
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Today is the day guys, I can feel it in my thoroughly overcaffeinated bones :thumbup:
Im making new ferts :lol:
To be clear my tank hasnt been running with no ferts at all, that would be bad, very bad on my setup (hungry plants, inert substrate and CO2 injection).
Theres still some ferts left in the containers, I just want to change out the solutions for new recipes to hopefully get a few things growing a bit better.

I ran a few water tests just now to see if they align with my existing ideas (the last water change was about two and a half weeks ago)
TDS 173 (the usual "end of week" reading is ~150 when I do weekly WC)
KH 3 (measured with 0.5 increments for @Wookii )
NO3 ~15+, maybe somewhere around 17. Exact number doesnt matter.
PO4 ~1,2, maybe a smidge over. This is a small increase since last time I measured. Perfectly content with this one for now, a non zero value that also doesnt go out of the scale.
Fe ~0,4. Quite a bit more since last measurement. This corroborates the pink tint of my water (Fe EDDHA). Im not going to say the current chlorosis issue is absolutely not caused by a lack of iron, but there does seem to be something funky going on here, the issue seems to be about more than iron. My current thought is that there are some interactions going on.


Our currently running weekly macro recipe as past-Hufsa had so helpfully summarized for us:
"Daily dosed Macro" weekly ppms:
2 N (50% Urea & 50% KNO3) = 8.8 NO3
0.26 P = 0.8 PO4
3.12 K
New weekly macro:
Rounding NO3 up to 10 ppm because the IFC uses NO3 rather than N for input, and clean looking numbers make me happy for some silly reason.
Ill keep PO4 the same for now at 0,8 ppm. I would rather have a little bit too much than not enough (ref. test result)
Bringing K all the way up to 15 🤯 WOW explosions and stuff (joking sorry)
Might take it down again later on, currently dont have a test for K, will get one the next time I order from a specific store, but who knows when that will actually be.
Test kits are so bl**dy expensive for what they actually do, and I only barely find the price tolerable from that cheapest store. So until then im just going by feel alone 🤠
Right now I just want to add "a bunch" to see what happens.

Ill update the replenishing/front loading macro recipe to match the weekly one, but still using only KNO3 and no Urea for front loading.

I have been very happy so far with the replenishing regime.
The tank gets a big boost, one whole week's worth of macros added after one of my 75% water changes, and then the weekly addition is slightly leaner which allows it to run closer to uptake and stay in the sweet spot for a longer period of time.
This kind of fertilizing regime seems to somewhat bridge the gap between "larger than average water changes", "sometimes performed weekly" but then also "sometimes no water change is done in a whole month".
Having consistent nutrient availability and avoiding a lot of accumulation in unexpected periods of less maintenance is my goal.
I want to implement something similar for replenishing micros, but not sure if I will do that right now.

Our currently running weekly micro recipe:
Micro (dosed daily) weekly ppms:
0.3 Fe (From 0.275 DTPA and 0.025 EDDHA)
0.15 Mn
0.06 Zn
0.06 B
0.018 Cu
0.009 Mo
0.0001 Ni
(No extra gluconate dosed)
This is the one where the plants got worse (more chlorotic) again, so something about this they didnt like.

The recipe that came before the one above is the one that has given the best results out of all of them so far:
0,3 Fe (From 0,275 DTPA and 0,025 EDDHA)
0,05 Mn
0,02 Zn
0,02 B
0,006 Cu
0,0001 Mo
0,0001 Ni
Plus 0,2 Fe Gluconate dosed separately
- So the iron stayed the same EXCEPT they got a glub of 0,2 Fe Gluconate dosed at some point during the week (or was it 0,1 twice?)
Since my water is currently pink (there is excess Fe EDDHA available in the water column), I am slightly less inclined to think that the 0,2 Fe Gluc is what made the difference, unless the fact that gluconate is so much tastier than EDDHA is the issue. But still it only makes second most likely reason on my list.
  • The recipe they liked had three times less Manganese. The competitive relationship between Iron and Manganese is well known. Both Iron and Manganese can give chlorosis. I think this one is the most likely reason, if I had to guess.
  • Current recipe also tripled Zn, B and Cu. I dont think these are responsible for the chlorosis. Mayhaps some of the other tiny irregularities, but im not looking too closely into that at the moment.
  • Mo is higher currently. Im keeping this change, I think the previous number seems too low and I dont want to have any issues with Nitrogen uptake. Mo is relatively unproblematic to have a bit high also, so there is no big deal with making sure there is reasonable excess (as far as traces go, everything is relative, im not gonna add 5 ppm :lol:)
  • Ni is the same, my tap water report shows that I have enough Ni already in my supply so im just including 0,0001 just to be 200% sure there is "some".

Since I am interested in getting back to the "fairly green and only slightly chlorotic" baseline that we had before, im reverting all the changes except the Mo.
Im not gonna add Fe Gluconate in the mixture, but I have the option to dose it manually later on if I want to. I must make sure to write it down if I do though.

Well enough talking, I need to start mixing before the caffeine wears off :brb:
 
Summary post for future-Hufsa, new ferts from tomorrow

Macro (dosed daily) weekly ppms
10 NO3 (50/50 KNO3/Urea)
0,8 PO4
15 K

Macro used right after a WC (one off dose)
10 NO3 (Only from KNO3)
0,8 PO4
15 K

Micro (dosed daily) weekly ppms
0,3 Fe (From 0,275 DTPA and 0,025 EDDHA)
0,05 Mn
0,02 Zn
0,02 B
0,006 Cu
0,009 Mo
0,0001 Ni
[Edit] EDTA Chelated micros minus Mo&Ni

Ive put water in the barrel for a water change tomorrow, theres 2 and a half weeks worth of an unknown combination of excess micros floating around in the tank, so it really needs a water change to go with the new ferts.
I really hate the pink water that shows up in the tank after a while, and I had ideas about stopping the use of Fe EDDHA entirely this time.
But the very visual feedback it gives is just far too useful to stop now, so im just going to have to grit my teeth for a while longer.
 
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I need to make some more forbidden soda soon, im running out of the B and Zn solutions. Probably enough for one more round though.
The Mo has stayed beautifully clear, it was the ascorbic acid that caused the blue color shenanigans. Same with my macro solution, stopped using ascorbic, no yellow tint.

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I found a bit of mold stuff in my micro dosing line, well I have seen it a while ago but I pretended that I didnt so that I didnt have to deal with it.
But I couldnt ignore it any more now and attempted to clean it. I need a better technique for this, since my glutaraldehyde is suspected out of date and ineffective (I tried to fry some algae with a dip and nothing happened no matter how much I used), I was left with just Q tips and some hot water, because I didnt want to mess with bleach, and didnt feel like figuring out where I put the H2O2.
After I had scrubbed away the worst bits I boiled a kettle of water and sent it through the line, and then left it sitting there while I went to mix up more ferts.
I thought the acrylic/PMMA whatever tube was heat resistant since I tried using boiling water to bend this kind of tube before, but it didnt work.
It definitely does not tolerate sitting with such hot water though, oops 😅
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This tube was straight before I started :angelic: I tried shoving it back in the dosing container and leaving it for future-Hufsa to deal with some other time (my favorite way to deal with problems), but it no longer fit inside the hole so I had to make a new bit of pipe :shifty:
The rubber band tied around the top is to stop the pipe from hammering on the bottom of the container when the doser runs and causing a really annoying sound. Stay tuned for more pro-tips 😎

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I spotted this odd little fellow in the tank. He is all red. He must be a really random neocaridina baby, because I was pretty sure the bee shrimp are born with white already on them?

When I was thinning out my collection of buce and posting photos for sale I noticed something in the pictures.
BLURPLE.jpg
My hands. My skin looks distinctly purple tinged.
This is how it starts you know...
...Blurple lights :yuck:

This is totally UNACCEPTABLE!
As soon as my water returns to a normal color tomorrow I am going to be recalibrating my light spectrum 😠
Maybe ill increase the intensity or photoperiod a bit too... ive been gone too long from the watchful influence of our lord and savior @KirstyF :twisted:
 
The Mo has stayed beautifully clear, it was the ascorbic acid that caused the blue color shenanigans. Same with my macro solution, stopped using ascorbic, no yellow tint.
Ascorbic acid is a powerful antioxidant, i.e. reducing agent. There are only two instances when it's useful: if your fertilizer contains divalent iron or divalent manganese. Otherwise it's completely redundant, unless you host a microbes' banquet.
 
Ascorbic acid is a powerful antioxidant, i.e. reducing agent. There are only two instances when it's useful: if your fertilizer contains divalent iron or divalent manganese. Otherwise it's completely redundant, unless you host a microbes' banquet.
Ascorbic acid and potassium sorbate are the standard preservatives used for DIY ferts around here.
Oddly enough it seems most people arent having problems with it, aside from having a visually yellow macro mix. Or at least they arent having any problems with it that they know of 😏
Then again rolling your own micros is something most people skip over, so they entirely avoid the issue of stock solutions sitting around turning odd colors.
Ive been using Citric acid from the advice of @Happi , and this seems to work ok. No preservatives of any kind in the stock solutions though, just the final mixes.
 
Ascorbic acid and potassium sorbate are the standard preservatives used for DIY ferts around here.
Wrong. Potassium sorbate is a preservative. Ascorbic acid is not.
And I don't see a reason to add citric acid. We have discussed it. There are compounds which are more stable in acidic environment. Ok, but acidifying the solution with citric acid may easily backfire because it's a delicacy for microbes.
 
Wrong. Potassium sorbate is a preservative. Ascorbic acid is not.
My mistake, I omitted a few bits for the sake of brevity. The ascorbic acid is added to keep the ph in a beneficial range, and because it has synergistic properties with potassium sorbate, that is what I have been told.
Ok, but acidifying the solution with citric acid may easily backfire because it's a delicacy for microbes.
Ill consider trying another acid later on, which one do you personally use for this purpose, HCL or H2SO4 perhaps?

DIY fert recipes usually use only weak acids as part of the recipe as it is safer for the average end user to handle. (I didnt come up with this I am just relaying some information 😅)
 
Ive been using Citric acid from the advice of @Happi
sorry Hufsa, i don't think i remember suggesting the use of Citric acid, are you sure it wasn't Plantnoobdude? i have never used a Citric Acid before, so i cannot make any comment on it. far as the Ascorbic acid goes, i do not recommend using it, instead, I use Vinegar or HCl or H2SO4 to acidify my solutions and still use Potassium Sorbate or Sodium Benzoate to preserve my solutions.
 
which one do you personally use for this purpose
I'm not sure. You know, most hobbyists are using branded blends, like Tenso Cocktail. The manufacturer knows exactly the dangers and how to avoid them. But these measures cannot be extended to all micronutrient stock solutions because each element behaves differently and each complex salt reacts differently. If I'm not mistaken, Tenso Cocktail contains Fe, Mn, Zn, and Cu as EDTA-complexes. Maybe nickel, too. What I don't know is what kind of protection works best with EDTA, but I do know for sure that other complexing agents - citrate, gluconate, DTPA, EDDHMA, etc. - require somehow different treatment.
Add to that that I'm not using any of those. Only sporadically I've been experimenting with Fe-EDTA. I'm using simple salts instead, each nutrient separately, and do not need any preservatives nor acidifiers. Once in a while I learn that some species suffer from iron deficiency in basic water (pH > 7.0), a few struggle even in slightly acidic water (pH about 6.5). To me, such a disclosure is the goal; I feel no need to save the plant with strong chelates, instead, I move it to another tank with lower pH. And lower content of bicarbonates, that's important to mention.
Complex salts are a bit of "higher" chemistry. And I've never felt the urge to study chelating agents too deeply. What I do know is that potassium sorbate is quite a potent antimicrobial agent as long as pH is kept acidic, pH < 5 is best. Sulfuric acid can deliver acidity, of course, but it's also an oxidizer. That's probably the reason why another acid - ascorbic - is used. But to tell which one, why, even how much - that's all beyond my abilities.
All this discussion is irrelevant for boron and molybdenum, though. They don't create complex salts. Sodium molybdate is an ordinary salt which does not require any special treatment. Boric acid the same; beside that, it's a microbe-killer.
 
citric acid may easily backfire because it's a delicacy for microbes.

many acids contain Carbon which is used by microbes, so am not sure about this, unless these acids and bacteria would have a negative affects on the solution. Maq can you share on this?

 
many acids contain Carbon
All organic compounds contain carbon. Still, sorbic acid and benzoic acid are used as preservatives because they are harmful for fungi and most bacteria. Among simple aliphatic acids, citric acid is arguably least toxic for all organisms, for most microbes it's a welcome food. Acetic and formic acids are moderately toxic, oxalic acid is toxic to some organisms while not to others. And so on.
 
unless these acids and bacteria would have a negative affects on the solution. Maq can you share on this?
Certainly. Microbes may influence or even outright destroy the chelating agents which are organic acids themselves. Par example, half-time of microbial decomposition of EDTA in natural waters is four weeks in average. (We can quite believe that decomposition time in our tanks is roughly similar.) So, to keep a stock solution of EDTA-salts any longer, you must protect it from microbial infestation. For that, another organic acid - sorbic - is often added. (Sorbic acid is poorly soluble, so potassium sorbate is used instead.)
 
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