Bradders
Member
The more I read and learn, the more I realise I need to read more and learn more!!
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BGA and Nutrient Deficiency?
- Thread starter Bradders
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Connswater
Member
Perhaps Bradders, and a degree in Chemistry might help us all. But I can grow garden plants, house plants and plants in my fish tank without any real difficulty without fully understanding the intricacies of the chemistry, and indeed I can eat and drink and get nourishment on a limited understanding of the complexities of carbohydrates, liver function, insulin etc., I recommend the RHS website for a layperson's guide to fertiliser and signs of deficiency. Plants grow well in my two ponds without me doing anything at all, absolutely nothing except an autumn cut-back and a bit of a dredge of mud and leaves. I think the complexities of EI dosing explain why Walstad tanks have grown in popularity. Barr by the way does not obsess at all and suggests a range for a high light CO2 injected tank, not precise figures but 10-30 ppm Nitrate Phosphate 1-2 ppm and Potassium 10-30 ppm - careful use of any garden centre fertiliser should allow this range to be achieved - my only penny worth is that in hard water chelated Iron is important and my experience Phosphate can be as low as 0.5 ppm, assuming I have accurately measured it. Have a great day.
Nutrient deficiencies / RHS
If plants fail to thrive, despite adequate soil preparation, watering and mulching, it may be a sign of a nutrient deficiency. Fruit and vegetables are particularly vulnerable, as are containerised plants and those growing in very acid or alkaline soils. Yellow or reddish coloured leaves...
Fertiliser labels explained / RHS
The contents of fertilisers, as described on the packet can seem quite daunting. However, labels explain the composition and nutrient content of the product, helping you to decide what you need to buy and how best to use it.
Bradders
Member
Thanks - I think I need to just find my feet and learn by doing, This is all very helpful advice.
For 1ml/10l/week
The IFC does show the N, P and K values in ppm and NPK ratioin,but only in the fert your making. We tried to show as much as possible without information overload, we did have a version that showed many ratios, however it got very busy, so we trimmed it down.
We classed it as a 'Pseudo clone' - as it gives the same resultant dose of ferts for a different dosing volume than the original fert. As long as the dosing result is 100% its a clone of the product or selected target ppm
So for TNC complete it has a NPK of 8:1:25
Hi all,
Because there are three possible sources for <"fixed nitrogen"> (N): nitrate (NO3- & 22.5% N), urea (CO(NH2)2 & 46% N) and <"TAN"> (NH3 / NH4+ & 82% N) you really have to quote nitrogen content as elemental nitrogen "N".
cheers Darrel
Some of it is just the legal requirement for horticultural fertilisers, the explanation and calculations are all here:<"percentage for dry fertilizers">. It doesn't now make a lot of sense, but it has been that way for a long time.
Because there are three possible sources for <"fixed nitrogen"> (N): nitrate (NO3- & 22.5% N), urea (CO(NH2)2 & 46% N) and <"TAN"> (NH3 / NH4+ & 82% N) you really have to quote nitrogen content as elemental nitrogen "N".
cheers Darrel
Hi all,
cheers Darrel
<"That is right">, the only real difference with aquariums (with livestock) is that we need to be a bit more wary of ammonia (NH3), just because of its <"toxicity to aquatic organisms">.
Tom is still a member of the forum (@plantbrain), and has been fairly active in the past. Although the Estimative and Duckweed Indices <"were developed independently">, they have <"some things in common"> and one of those is not obsessing too much about <"exact weights"> or ratios, hence the <"teaspoons"> as unit of measure.
cheers Darrel
Connswater
Member
Absolutely Darrel, and a few years back I bought organic root sticks, far from ideal, lots of urea, but thankfully the pants mopped up any problems.
However, like most folks who have use CO2 I have had losses of fish, never that many, only larger heavier bodied fish, in hot weather. I understand why you choose to not use CO2, but in the early 1990s I found it transformed my success with plants in London, I used to stick with Vallis, Cryptocoryne ciliata, Amazon swords and Hornwort, with CO2 I could grow almost anything in my London tap water. I now do however, somewhat soften my water now, in part to reduce the cost of the amount of CO2 I use.
Have a lovely evening and thanks again.
FrozenShivers
Member
If your pants are mopping up any problems with your root stick, then I’d say they were some good pants.
Bradders
Member
Hi all,
cheers Darrel
That was partially why I became so focussed on <"dissolved oxygen">. In that particular circumstances CO2 wasn't implicated, but they were <"large fish with a high oxygen demand">.
As well as the <"asphyxiation issue">, I'd be the first to admit that I'm an incredibly lax with maintenance and a pretty poor and shoddy aquarist. If there was ever a <"recipe for disaster">? Mixing me and CO2 is one.
Point taken, I don't think anybody is arguing against that, added CO2 is definitely a game changer in harder, more alkaline water.
Thank-you and the same to you.
cheers Darrel
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Connswater
Member
Thanks as always Darrel
I am intrigued by ADA in their gallery manually raising lily pipes at night to ensure adequate oxygen levels. I wouldn't have the discipline myself. But an old GP friend in Kent - hard water, usual story - insisted on having an air pump and air stone on a timer for nighttime safety, he used to joke with me, an asthmatic, that night time breathing problems are common. I now myself am thinking that next time I go on holiday abroad I will check the weather at home and tell my son to switch on a pre-installed air pump and air stone on my main tank. In the last dozen or so years, I have twice had a few losses - mainly barbs - when temperatures in the UK have been in the high 20s to low 30s.
Cheers
Hi all,
Cheers Darrel
I might manage a week. A timer plug makes a lot more sense.
It shouldn't be so much of an issue in planted tanks, just because of the net oxygen production of plants, but night-time is always the dangerous time. If you don't have plants? It is always night.
I think that is a good idea, it gives you belt and braces and peace of mind.
Cheers Darrel
Bradders
Member
Darrel got me hooked on the Dissolved Oxygen journey - his enthusiasm is just that infectious. I bought a DO meter and started taking readings, and I could see how, during the day, you get a lot DO from the plants, and then you will lose a lot overnight - a couple of mg/l in some cases. As a result, I remain a keen advocate of aerating my aquariums 24/7. I, too, have seen my kitchen tank get very hot (bad placement) in summer and reach the 29C range, but never lost any of the 30 fish to which, in part, is down to keeping it well aerated.
Connswater
Member
Thanks for that, I always in the past managed to keep a tank cooler, but in this long, and thin house, with lots of windows, all very cheerful in the autumn and spring, but in the summer, things get problematic. A dark alcove is really a bonus. For the coming summer, 2025, the passing of the years shocks me, first proper aquarium, 1969, I will go back to a pump and air stone, but night time only I think for me, except in exceptional temperatures. Most barbs hate it too hot anyway regardless of DO. But fatalities are unacceptable if avoidable.
Bradders
Member
What algae is this, ladies and gents? I have both plants and hardscape becoming homes for it. Forming on a lot more plants than I would like!
Connswater
Member
I'm definitely not a botanist, so proper names are not in my gift, commonly named stag horn algae is however, my suggestion/best guess, but perhaps green beard algae. The former more CO2 and less nutrients will definitely help, the latter, shorter photoperiod (but not less than 6 hours in my experience) and a big water change with low nitrate water - you might have an ammonia spike from your substrate but I suspect extra filter turnover with some nice mature sludge loaded foam and really good CO2 levels evenly distributed, will encourage the plants to be able shake of the algae. My gut instinct is your water is too rich in macro nutrients and lacking good CO2 levels. I would test for Nitrate and Phosphate. I know you are keen on complicated dosing, but I really do aim to keep my Nitrates below 20, ideally below 10, and Phosphate in the water column in my experience needs to be kept really low, definitely below 2 and ideally below 1 ppm, some folks think Phosphate should be even lower. But as I have said before, I can grown algae and plants, mainly cladophora but other types do make themselves welcome from time to time.
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It looks exactly like staghorn algae.
You can see more of them here Staghorn Algae and here Staghorn Algae.
I think they like ammonium together with iron and a little phosphate. I have no extensive experience with these algae. In my case, they only developed for a short time when I delayed the usual filter maintenance a little. There were very few of them and they then disappeared quite quickly.
You can see more of them here Staghorn Algae and here Staghorn Algae.
I think they like ammonium together with iron and a little phosphate. I have no extensive experience with these algae. In my case, they only developed for a short time when I delayed the usual filter maintenance a little. There were very few of them and they then disappeared quite quickly.
Bradders
Member
Thank you both. Yes, that was my inclination, too, that it was stag horn algae.
I think I am going to have to take a step back and think carefully about how to move forward. Something does not feel right to me, and I am sure its not just because the tank is only 3 months old.
You still need a little more biology. That takes time. You can encourage the biology a little by adding a little forest or garden soil or preferably fresh compost to the tank. Half a teaspoon is enough.
MrClockOff
Member
Hey @Bradders
This may be just a stage of maturing of your aquarium. Again, I had it in all my scapes and indeed it was just a stage of maturing. It started appearing accompanied with BBA just after diatoms disappeared. The only things I was doing was keeping up with my maintenance routine, spot treating BBA with Flourish Excel and removing plant leaves the most covered with staghorn algae. After couple of months I couldn’t see any of it.
This may be just a stage of maturing of your aquarium. Again, I had it in all my scapes and indeed it was just a stage of maturing. It started appearing accompanied with BBA just after diatoms disappeared. The only things I was doing was keeping up with my maintenance routine, spot treating BBA with Flourish Excel and removing plant leaves the most covered with staghorn algae. After couple of months I couldn’t see any of it.
