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Anubias ‘Snow white’

Hi all,
Mat H said:
I will update with what I believe will be an expected, somewhat inevitable, failure.
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We have a thread - <"Anubias Snow White melted - will they recover ?">.
Mat H said:
At best I imagine some may revert enough to survive,
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I think that is your best hope. Shade may encourage <"them to produce chlorophyll">. In bright light I'm pretty sure Clive's <"photon torpedo will fry them">.

Chlorophyll free monocotyledon shoots are particularly difficult, because you can't* graft them onto a green plant "life support system".

Although that is probably a good thing, or you could end up with the aquatic version <"of these">.
dw1305 said:
You can graft dicotyledons, which is how they create those grotesque "moon" cacti.

moon-cactus-400x300.jpg
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* changed from "can" after @Mat H's <"post">

cheers Darrel
 
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dw1305 said:
Hi all,

We have a thread - <"Anubias Snow White melted - will they recover ?">.

I think that is your best hope. Shade may encourage <"them to produce chlorophyll">. In bright light I'm pretty sure Clive's <"photon torpedo will fry them">.

Chlorophyll free monocotyledon shoots are particularly difficult, because you can graft them onto a green plant "life support system".

Although that is probably a good thing, or you could end up with the aquatic version <"of these">.

cheers Darrel
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Thanks Darrel,

I had read that thread before and is probably what prompted me to answer someone's question on them on a different forum in the negative, albeit that's also what prompted me to give them a try in a high tech set up to be sure [mine are doing better than those were at ten days, though I'm not sure for how much longer as the snails are certainly taking a liking to them].

Certainly looks that way and I'm probably verging on photon torpedo territory myself [still getting to grips with my WRGB2 Pro], in fact I'll likely be dropping the light percentage down again shortly - I'm trying to adjust things slowly rather than extremes after a plethora of issues with this tank.

Believe you mean 'can't' graft monocotyledons, and yes that wouldn't be a great leap forward for planted tanks! I'm not a fan of the grafted cacti and prefer them as they're meant to be. Rose / fruit grafting is a different story, though I haven't quite got the hang of that yet despite various attempts.
 
Andy Pierce said:
You could try planting them such that the rhizome is not shaded by the leaves and see if that helps.
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I do have a couple like that too as I read the previous comments on the green rhizome etc, as well as some right next to light, some lower, some in the substrate and some completely shaded - the latter, as I mentioned, seem to be looking the healthiest rather surprisingly given the obvious lack of chlorophyll.

I won't be able to tell anything meaningful for a couple more weeks I imagine, assuming there's anything left!
 
Hi all,
Mat H said:
Rose / fruit grafting is a different story, though I haven't quite got the hang of that yet despite various attempts.
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<"Chip budding"> is easier <"than grafting">, the main secret (with grafting) is just to have the stock in growth and the scion dormant.

Roses are traditionally grown via <"T budding">, but they can be grafted or chip budded. If you have a Rambler Rose (I use <"Mme Gregoire Staechelin">) you can root it as a hard wood cutting and also use those cuttings as a grafting stock. Any David Austin <"English Rose"> should work as well for hardwood cuttings, because they are all really Ramblers.
dw1305 said:
This is cheating a bit (because it is at work), but it is a Rambler Rose (<"Madame Gregoire Staechelin">) and I grew it from a hard wood cutting and "Guerilla" planted it.
Gregoire Staechelin.jpg
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I haven't done any recently, but I used to always <"have a few more unusual grafts growing"> .

cheers Darrel
 
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I seem to remember @Geoffrey Rea unsuccessfully tried to grow this plant and if he can't grow it I'm not even going to attempt to.
On the other hand I've had the standard Pinto growing exceptionally well for the last 9 months just wedged into some Buce towards the top of the tank.
 
dw1305 said:
Hi all,

<"Chip budding"> is easier <"than grafting">, the main secret is just to have the stock in growth and the scion dormant.

Roses are traditionally grown via <"T budding">, but they can be grafted or chip budded. If you have a Rambler Rose (I use Mme Gregoire Staechelin) you can root it as a hard wood cutting and also use that as a grafting stock. Any David Austen "English Rose" should work as well for hardwood cuttings, because they are all really Ramblers.

I haven't done any recently, but I used to always <"have a few more unusual grafts growing"> .

cheers Darrel
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Ah thanks for the tip!

I'm sure I did look into the t-budding and will look into chip budding a bit more. Having had a quick Google they don't look too dissimilar from the way I was was 'attempting' to graft.

I'll make a bit more of a concerted effort at researching and implementing it next year. This year was spent getting our little garden into some sort of shape, with a lot of that time spent bringing the lawn back to life - three children, a large trampoline [deceased], and a dog, all takes its toll, but I think I did admirably!

Funnily enough working on the garden this year reignited my love/interest in planted tanks (by way of maintaing my outdoor tubs / mini ponds) - one additional tank, various paraphernalia and some plants later we have one rescape, one new scape and an old 60ltr sitting in the garden with my tubs as an experiment!
 

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Still all largely the same and I fully expect it'll end up very much like @Andy Pierce experiences, though my inquisitive nature means I like to test things for myself.

I'll update or create a post as things progress.
 
Disaronno said:
@Miniandy
View attachment 211255
I got it as small rhizome just before the first COVID lock down happened. It was not sold as TC, it was already attached to a rock when purchased. The LFS said it was Pinto however the leaves are much smaller than shown in other photos. Could be closer to nana petite origins?

I leave it in the tank middle where it's not too shaded. It has gone through some ups and downs (mostly algae and ahem over done algae treatments). Most common algae problems is green dust and some kind of black algae that is strongly attached to leaf edges. However these usually happen if the nutrients are too lean (particularly NO3) IME.

I should clarify, the leaves keep their whiteness and marbling, does not progressively turn green over time. What I meant previously, if you leave the plant in the shade too long, the new leaves that are produced are likely to be green(er).

Tank parameters:
NO3: 20-40ppm
PO4: 4ppm (has run awhile at 8ppm without problems)
K: 25-30ppm
Fe: 0.25-0.5ppm
GH: 4-6d
KH: 1-2d
Temp: 75F (23.8C)
pH: ? (haven't measured, no pH pen and API test can't read below 6.4)
CO2: Yes
Lighting: DIY 120W fixture using Bridgelux Thrive 5000K at 70W. Distance to water surface maybe 12 inches.
Tank size: was 40 gallon breeder, now 60 gallon breeder
Substrate: Safe-T-Sorb (inert clay, not sold for aquariums)
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Just wanted to say thanks for sharing.
 
Just come across this thread, I have both anubias snow white and nana pinto in my tank. Suprisingly the nana pinto didnt last but the snow white is thriving and doing well. Im in the process of doing a journal so will document it soon. Personally i love the white amongst all the green and some red plants.
 
Ibz10 said:
Just come across this thread, I have both anubias snow white and nana pinto in my tank. Suprisingly the nana pinto didnt last but the snow white is thriving and doing well. Im in the process of doing a journal so will document it soon. Personally i love the white amongst all the green and some red plants.
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I look forward to your journal with much interest.

Mine are still plodding along, the ones in direct light seem to be reverting and have become greener and the ones in shade seem to be doing better for some reason (though the obvious thing is my light intensity being too much).

I think Andy was doing well for weeks, months even, though eventually it didn't work out as it doesn't for many.
 
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