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All the fishes in my tank died

maverick786us

Member
Joined
6 Nov 2024
Messages
289
Location
Columbus, GA
In my newly planted aquascape all the fishes died, except one Cory who I moved into quarantine. These are the parameters (picture 1 for ammonia picture 2, 3 and 4 for other parameters including Nitrate) Ammonia and Nitrate looks normal. There are some pest snails who grew up in this tank and still flourishing. Did I do something wrong?

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Hey Maverick. Sorry to hear you lost your fish, its gutting if it happens. I cant say for sure but you have had a lot going on..... very quick stocking of a new tank with pretty large fish, still dialling in co2, new immature filter a week or two back, then filter stopping working when you were out..... this is all points at the tank simply not being ready for livestock and certainly not in the quantity you had. It would be quite normal to start after 2-4 weeks with shrimp/clean up crew, then from 6-8 week slow stocking of low numbers of small fish.

I appreciate the test strips say the chemistry is fine but they are notoriously inaccurate and the fish have told you in no uncertain terms something is not ok. (it could of course of been something like a co2 dump, chemicals in the tank etc but these are much less likely)

Its a tough lesson to learn but i cant help feel you need to pull back, reduce your haste, learn to run your tank consistently, grow plants, manage safe co2 injection, maintenance and then in another month or two start thinking about livestock.
Im sorry this happened but take it as an opportunity to learn and reset, your overall experience of aquascaping will be the better for it.

PS its almost impossible to kill pest snails, they will be happy in a toilet bowl and they are no measure to the tanks suitability for larger lifeforms.
 
Yes I won't be having live stock any time sooner. The filter problem was with the other tank
And luckily there isn't a single casualty. In fact in that tank, I had live stock 3 days after establishing, yes I did check parameters before live stock and first week I happened to change water every 48 hours, second week twice a week and then went on to weekly cycle and there isn't a single casualty except one dead bristlenose placo and 2 sick Cory panda
 
I'm very sorry to hear that. What happened and when did it happen? As far I can see there should be no Nitrite in your tank. Nitrite also does not cause rapid death. Is Cl2 ok?
When I bought the fishes, I showed it to my friend who is into this business and asked for his opinion. He said that he can see fungal infection in those rainbow fishes. So before introducing those rainbows into this tank I kept them in quarantine with anti fungal and anti itch medicine for 48 hours and then introduced them Into this tank. But those rainbows started dying one by one within a span of 3 days, But those angel fishes and Cory were healthy. Today when I returned from my work I was shocked to see all of them dead except one Cory, who I took out
 
Did I do something wrong?
Sorry to hear of this, your photo shows 0 total hardness. That alone, if accurate is a recipe for disaster. Did you partially remineralise your RO water?

First kept fish seriously age 8, still keeping fish in my 60s. Here are my observations which you may find useful.

I had books from the library to read, my parents insisted, before they bought me a tank, buy a good book and treat it like an instruction manual. I strongly recommend Karen Randall but there are more basic guides out there, Karen is a plant enthusiast. Plants are a challenge, they need CO2, fish need O2! Do not believe the twaddle that a well planted tank is always safe for fish, it is not true of lakes or rivers, it is not true of aquariums. I have seen fish die in the summer in heavily planted lakes.

Sorry, no offence, but topical fish are relatively easy, at junior school I had several friends with tanks, we all managed to keep fish, sometimes we got whitespot, ich in the US. But, plants, that was a different matter. But the good news, floating plants aren't difficult, but seriously some rooted plants can be very difficult to grow.

Fish must be disease free and suitable for the water/temperature and size of tank. Angel fish for example really need a very large tank, 5 or 6 feet. Yes 5 or 6 feet, don't trust shopkeepers who say otherwise. They are large and aggressive cichlids, they fight, they need territory and their BO demands are significant - biological oxygen demands.

Best to use tap water.

Seriously, just use tap water, only be aware of chlorine products - in the UK we generally just let water stand for a day or two, we don't normally have chloramines in our water but there are exceptions, Scotland I have learnt today.

Keep it simple and keep fish and easy plants first - treat for the chlorine/chloramines but otherwise use tap water.

I stress, use tap water, and stop testing your water.

Use floating plants, use a filter and heater and moderate light for 8 hours a day.

Do not try and adjust the KH, pH or GH, just go with what you have, lots of fish and lots of plants are happy in tap water so long as it is the right temperature and types of chlorine aren't present.

If you can, use filter material from a mature tank, if not, run a tank with no fish for weeks. Mature means running well for months not weeks.

Introduce small hardy fish that actually like your tap water parameters - hard water in your case, guppies, barbs, rasbora species. Stop thinking water has to free of hardness.

Use hardy plants that like your tap water, hornwort, Vallis, egeria, hygrophila.

There are also some crypts that like hard water. Amazon swords like hard water. Do not add any plant fertiliser at all until the tank has been running with healthy fish for at least 3 months and then only go light, and don't over clean filters, dirty filters are your friend, they are full of bacteria. They work best when slowed down by brown gunk.

Do not even think about CO2, high light or messing about with water hardness until you have run a tropical planted fish tank with no losses from disease or water issues, for a year or two. And then, go gently, CO2 and water softening is not for folks new to the hobby unless they have a scientific background.

Sorry again and best wishes, but luck is not needed just patience and small steps, we walk before we run.
 
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Sorry for your loss as that's not a fun part of the hobby. I can only echo what @Iain Sutherland said though which is to try and slow down a little, don't rely on testing strips to tell you if your tank is ok - his advice is sound advice. Maybe work on getting your plants nicely grown in for a couple of a month or two, then add a little clean-up crew and then wait some time until you have some sort of stability and routine with everything before slowly adding livestock (in small species only quantities, with the most aggressive/territorial being added last). Trying to do everything too fast will end in upset as well as be harder to fix/diagnose if you're tinkering with lots of different things all the time.
 
Seriously, just use tap water, only be aware of chlorine products - in the UK we just let water stand for a day or two, we don't have chloramines in our water.

I think this is incorrect, at least in some parts of the UK:

"Scottish Water has introduced chloramination in areas where untreated water is highly coloured due to peat-based water sources.

It is also effective where drinking water has to travel long distances, as it removes the need to add additional chlorine within the network of pipes before it reaches customers' taps. Plus, unlike chlorine, chloramines have the benefit of having no significant taste or odour."

Source.
 
Sorry to hear of this, your photo shows 0 total hardness. That alone, if accurate is a recipe for disaster. Did you partially remineralise your RO water?

First kept fish seriously age 8, still keeping fish in my 60s. Here are my observations which you may find useful.

I had books from the library to read, my parents insisted, before they bought me a tank, buy a good book and treat it like an instruction manual. I strongly recommend Karen Randall but there are more basic guides out there, Karen is a plant enthusiast. Plants are a challenge, they need CO2, fish need O2! Do not believe the twaddle that a well planted tank is always safe for fish, it is not true of lakes or rivers, it is not true of aquariums. I have seen fish die in the summer in heavily planted lakes.

Sorry, no offence, but topical fish are relatively easy, at junior school I had several friends with tanks, we all managed to keep fish, sometimes we got whitespot ich in the US. But, plants, that was a different matter. But the good news, floating plants aren't difficult, but seriously some rooted plants can be very difficult to grow.

Fish must be disease free and suitable for the water/temperature and size of tank. Angel fish for example really need a very large tank, 5 or 6 feet. Yes 5 or 6 feet, don't trust shopkeepers who say otherwise. They are large and aggressive cichlids, they fight, they need territory and their BO demands are significant - biological oxygen demands.

Best to use tap water.

Seriously, just use tap water, only be aware of chlorine products - in the UK we just let water stand for a day or two, we don't have chloramines in our water.

Keep it simple and keep fish and easy plants first - treat for the chlorine/chloramines but otherwise use tap water.

I stress, use tap water, and stop testing your water.

Use floating plants, use a filter and heater and moderate light for 8 hours a day.

Do not try and adjust the KH, pH or GH, just go with what you have, lots of fish and lots of plants are happy in tap water so long as it is the right temperature and types of chlorine aren't present.

If you can, use filter material from a mature tank, if not, run a tank with no fish for weeks. Mature means running well for months not weeks.

Introduce small hardy fish that actually like your tap water parameters - hard water in your case, guppies, barbs, rasbora species. Stop thinking water has to free of hardness.

Use hardy plants that like your tap water, hornwort, Vallis, egeria, hygrophila.

There are also some crypts that like hard water. Amazon swords like hard water. Do not add any plant fertiliser at all until the tank has been running with healthy fish for at least 3 months and then only go light, and don't over clean filters, dirty filters are your friend, they are full of bacteria. They work best when slowed down by brown gunk.

Do not even think about CO2, high light or messing about with water hardness until you have run a tropical planted fish tank with no losses from disease or water issues, for a year or two. And then, go gently, CO2 and water softening is not for folks new to the hobby unless they have a scientific background.

Sorry again and best wishes, but luck is not needed just patience and small steps, we walk before we run.
Thank you, this is a big tank, so in this tank I am using tank water with few drops of de-chlorinator. Earlier I used to mix RO water and tap water with de-chlorinator. But after reading this thread. I have stopped using RO water. I don't know how the hardness was 0.
 
I think this is incorrect, at least in some parts of the UK:

"Scottish Water has introduced chloramination in areas where untreated water is highly coloured due to peat-based water sources.

It is also effective where drinking water has to travel long distances, as it removes the need to add additional chlorine within the network of pipes before it reaches customers' taps. Plus, unlike chlorine, chloramines have the benefit of having no significant taste or odour."

Source.
Every day is a learning day here on this site, even for old folks like me. Thanks for that, appreciated. I have changed my post, I normally however, don't even treat my water for chlorine, I mix it with rain water, let it stand and add some boiled water...if I move to bonny Scotland I will have to take greater care.
 
Sorry for your loss as that's not a fun part of the hobby. I can only echo what @Iain Sutherland said though which is to try and slow down a little, don't rely on testing strips to tell you if your tank is ok - his advice is sound advice. Maybe work on getting your plants nicely grown in for a couple of a month or two, then add a little clean-up crew and then wait some time until you have some sort of stability and routine with everything before slowly adding livestock (in small species only quantities, with the most aggressive/territorial being added last). Trying to do everything too fast will end in upset as well as be harder to fix/diagnose if you're tinkering with lots of different things all the time.
Yes this is what I am gonna do. In 2 weeks I will add siamese algae eaters as clean up crew. Though it will be bit risky for their lives. But I have seen that SAE the most hardy fish. In all my other tanks, there hasn't been a single death except few jumping out of water.
 
In 2 weeks I will add siamese algae eaters as clean up crew. Though it will be bit risky for their lives.
Im confused, after all the great advice over multiple threads and with you even acknowledging its risk why would you still add fish. Honestly I have been where you are, instant gratification is not the way forward as it only leads to more issues more deaths and with you probably feeling less happy with your setup than you could have in the long run.
 
Every day is a learning day here on this site, even for old folks like me. Thanks for that, appreciated. I have changed my post, I normally however, don't even treat my water for chlorine, I mix it with rain water, let it stand and add some boiled water...if I move to bonny Scotland I will have to take greater care.

You are welcome 🙂 To be fair it may be something that's changed over the years and is more commonplace now. If it's been working for you without any issue then it seems that your supplier doesn't currently use it, but if they decide to add chloramine I don't think they'll inform you. Sadly for us using tap water I don't think it's isolated to sunny Scotland either:

"A growing number of water authorities, including as Thames, Welsh Water, Scottish Water and parts of Anglian Water, have now switched from dosing their water supplies with chlorine to adding a different disinfectant called chloramine."

Source. I can't see a date for this article but it seems PFK are trying to map out the water around the UK.
 
Im confused, after all the great advice over multiple threads and with you even acknowledging its risk why would you still add fish. Honestly I have been where you are, instant gratification is not the way forward as it only leads to more issues more deaths and with you probably feeling less happy with your setup than you could have in the long run.
But you guys advised me to use clean up crew. Minimum 2 weeks, it can be 4 or 5 for those clean up crews. Until then I will monitor a lot of things. Thankfully that tank has few pest snails that came from now where, just 48 hours after flooding. I will monitor their activities and that can give me rough idea
 
Yes this is what I am gonna do. In 2 weeks I will add siamese algae eaters as clean up crew. Though it will be bit risky for their lives.
You should NOT buy any livestock. Start this tank from scratch.
Make a list of what is currently in the tank and then we'll see what we can do with it. And first of all: what are the parameters of your tap water? That will be the start. You need to learn how an aquarium works. You probably won't learn that from aquascaping videos.
 
But you guys advised me to use clean up crew. Minimum 2 weeks, it can be 4 or 5 for those clean up crews. Until then I will monitor a lot of things. Thankfully that tank has few pest snails that came from now where, just 48 hours after flooding. I will monitor their activities and that can give me rough idea
Sorry i wasn't clearer Maverick, clean up crew should start with a few amano shrimp, maybe some cherry shrimp and a couple of snails. I might get shot down but fish can be thought of as higher life forms and tend to be less forgiving to new tank fluctuations. Again, pkease don't use pest snails as a gauge of suitability to progress.

Please don't feel disheartened, folks here are rightly impassioned that the welfare of livestock is the priority and will give impassioned views when this is challenged.

I suggest that while you're learning (we all are 🤔) keep a journal up to date and ask questions prior to making big decisions, especially around equipment and livestock. That way you will be dodging bullets like Neo in no time.👍
 
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Sorry i wasn't clearer Macerick, clean up crew should start with a few amazon shrimp, maybe some cherry shrimp and a couple of snails. I might get shot down but fish can be thought of as higher life forms and tend to be less forgiving to new tank fluctuations.

Please don't feel disheartened, folks here are rightly impassioned that the welfare of livestock is the priority and will give impassioned views.

I suggest that while you are learning (we all still are 🤔) keep a journal up to date and ask questions prior to making big decisions, especially around equipment and livestock. That way you will be dodging bullets like Neo in no time.👍
In that case I will let the pest snails do that job, those snails came from. no where 48 hours after flooding, they were in this tank for more than 3 weeks and they are akee and healthy. Besides water parameter it was these snails that made me believe that, this is the right time to introduce live stock. But it was a big mistake.

Talking about shrimps, I think they are more sensitive than fishes. I posted another thread on strips. But I am not sure if they can survive in this fast moving water even the water is 100% safe
 
But it was a big mistake.
Yep, they can survive in extreme conditions, so don't judge you tank condition on pest snails!

I'd really advise keeping all your questions on each tank in one place (journal) making it easier to follow for you and those trying to help.

The question in the linked thread is missing the important bit. Flow is no issue for shrimp unless you are planning a new manifold river tank! The important question is what shrimp and what water parameters! Amano shrimp and cherry shrimp are probably the most robust but are still sensitive to water chemistry and temperature. Being a little sweeping here but, Shrimp can be added when you are confident that the tank is stabilised, plants are growing well and 2-4 weeks have passed (aim for 4). At this time there is still some risk but this is offset but large regular water changes, think 2- 3 times a week of 50%. If you see people doing it earlier it's generally because they have very mature filtration from another tank and understand the necessity of religious water changes.
This need for big water changes will.probably mean you will need to start dechlorinating water to have enough available when needed. Worth having some Seachem prime to hand anyway incase of issues as it also detoxifies ammonia, nitrite and nitrates buying you time when the 💩 hits the fan.
 
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