90cm and right at the beginning

[Mitchabbots]

You can always run an absolute tonne of carbon in the filter for 30 days. This will really help with water quality during the early stages.

I'll look into that. I have 1/2 a tray free (thin 300ppi sponge in top tray), perhaps replace a blue sponge with carbon. Then back in once the carbon has done its job.
Is it worth considering using some of the "wool" I hear about? Throwing it away afterwards (not very Eco though).
Best,
Brian

 

[Mitchabbots]

Hi,
I personally would turn it right down to about 10% or even less especially if it's moving your substrate around and turn it up gradually as the plant mass increases. As it is it will also uproot your newly planted plants. Once you start getting some growth you will be able to judge much better the power required to make all the plants sway in the breeze without creating a whirlpool and destroying anything. For comparison I have the same tank as you and run my Nero 3 (which looks pretty similar to yours) at 15% when CO2 is on and 1% when off and it is fully planted.
Again though, it's what works for me.

Yep, you've confirmed my thoughts, thank you. Don't want all my plants ending up as floaters.
Best,
Brian

 

[seedoubleyou]

I'll look into that. I have 1/2 a tray free (thin 300ppi sponge in top tray), perhaps replace a blue sponge with carbon. Then back in once the carbon has done its job.
Is it worth considering using some of the "wool" I hear about? Throwing it away afterwards (not very Eco though).
Best,
Brian

You can use wool yes and lots of people do, but if there’s no fish or anything yet, then there’s no real need to be collecting any fine particles (like poo and food).

 

[Mitchabbots]

Hi all,
Phase 1 complete. Back and mid plants planted and survived the night. Only a couple of floaters, easily sorted. Next week, some carpet, moss and Anubias.
Then fish in a bit. Thinking of 20ish rasboras, 20ish tetras and some algae eaters.

My understanding is there is no need to use ferts yet. When should I think about slowly increasing the dose until normal dose prevails? CO2 is on and lime green.

Hopefully, no faux pas. Suggestions always welcome.
Best,
Brian

 

[bazz]

Morning Brian.
Good to see some water and plants in...

Suggestions always welcome

As long as you're happy that's all that matters, the only suggestion I would make is to move the Val and is that Cyperus Helferi towards the back of the tank as all your other plants which appear to be stems can be trimmed down and shaped whereas the two aforementioned plants don't really appreciate being trimmed and they can grow pretty tall, although you can at least trim the Val if necessary but it looks terrible after doing so and takes a while to recover. Maybe it's further back than it looks, I have the same tank and struggle to get a sense of the 55cm depth using my phone camera.
Again, this is only my take on life and you are free to do whatever you wish.

 

[Mitchabbots]

Thanks @bazz
I've moved a few bits towards the back. As a newbie, this was a bit horrendous for me. Move 1 and 2 come to the surface. But all is well now. Nice clean frontage now.
Right, mixing up some ferts now. Ready to add later.


Adjusted the flow and the plants have eased back and are more upright. Cleaner lines from the side.
Note the camera at the back. Makes for a good video on my desktop. Once it has cleared up after all my faffing about. 😎
Best,
Brian

 

[Mitchabbots]

Hi All,
I do believe I have reached the stage where "it is all done" 😎
I've been away for a week and all is well, apart from some green hairy algae appearing on the glass. If I understand correctly, I need to up the ferts a bit. Making my own (TNC clone) and squiring 75% EI.

Happy with my first tank. Enjoying it and this will be my final input for this journal.
Thanks for all your input and advice.
Brian

 

[bazz]

Any updates on your tank @Mitchabbots?

 

[Mitchabbots]

Hi Bazz, et al.,

This is my tank just before my weekly water change today. About 40% conditioned tap water change is usual. I've kept the pictures big so you can see detail. If these are too big then shout.

My tank is barer than last time I posted. Have a problem with green algae that clogs up any fine detailed plants.
I removed my Limnophila Sessiliflora as it was growing (actually, exploding is closer, truth be known). The core of this plant was just a mass of algae. So, out it came.
I have Christmas moss. That is an algae trap and green hair algae seems to be a favourite. I've removed 80% of it. But, it is still growing there and annoying the hell out of me.
Also, my anubius is not so well.


I've been dosing from 100% EI to 60% EI reducing quantities, dropping 20% after 4 weeks. CO2 the same (unable to count the bubbles as they are too fast, say perhaps 5-8/sec, if I had to guess). Is this too much for 230litre tank? But then as I've just noticed my dropper is a bit on the blue side. As you can see in the photo there are plenty of CO2 bubbles there.
Lighting is Chihiros WRGB2

I have a couple of air stones working 5 hours during the night.
What say you? How can I improve my situation?
I have about 10 otos and 5 armano shrimp as my cleanup crew.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Brian

 

[megwattscreative]

Hi Brian, Im by no means an expert but I think running without co2/ with the decreased co2 definitely helps reduce algae. I'm not 100% sure, but as you haven't got any carpeting plants, do you need to add co2? Might be worth checking with someone who knows a little more.

Also increasing the number of plants will help with the algae, as well as potentially dropping the quantity of ferts. I really recommend some emergent plants for algae control (chuck a bit of pothos or a peace lily in hanging off the back) - the roots look fantastic and they're great nutrient guzzlers. Regarding the anubias, have you had a look at the frogbit index? It's useful for diagnosing plant issues.

 

[Connswater]

Any advice would be greatly appreciated

We all make choices with tanks and you've gone without surface floating plants and you removed a fast growing stem plant, and you are using EI, though I note on lower dosage now. With soil I don't think most tanks don't need water column macro nutrients for weeks if not months. I prefer soil under sand to reduce the high water column nutrition it creates especially in the early stages. And from what I can see of your pH indicator you are probably a bit CO2 low, but to make that call you need to know your KH and of course the indicator is always showing the pH as it was 2 or 3 hours ago.
Floating plants help in so many ways. I also plant more of the substrate than you did, with cheap fast growing plants.
I approve thoroughly of some aeration during the dark period to reduce the risk to fish, 5 hours seems a bit much and I think, you may, I can't be sure, losing a considerable amount of the CO2 you have injected in. A couple of hours from one air stone for two hours towards the end of the dark stage, seems to be enough to ensure no gasping fish in most even medium sized tanks. In fact I have run several tanks with 24 hour low bubble count CO2 without fish distress, losses and no aeration. But in the summer especially, some night time aeration is almost certainly a good idea. Some bigger fish of course are more vulnerable, for harlequins and gourami fish both are pretty tolerant in terms of moderate O2 levels and CO2 levels around 20 ppm.
I'd also try a 6 hour photo period for a week. Then 7 hours and aim to work towards 8 hours. But above all, I personally would use hornwort, Indian fern and frogbit to cushion the tank during the initial stages and give you a visual guide to any deficiencies, the so-called duckweed index. I still use floating plants on a system in its 7th year. But I use very high light and a lot of CO2 and lean dosing. That is my choice of course and my tank is definitely not to everybody's taste I'll load a photo, it should give you something to at least think about, and I promise you my tank is not algae free, but the plants are healthy and the algae is quite minimal.
Good luck.

 

[megwattscreative]

I really recommend some emergent plants for algae control (chuck a bit of pothos or a peace lily in hanging off the back) - the roots look fantastic and they're great nutrient guzzlers.

I've just noticed you have a peace lily in there - my advice... Add another! I've also got some floating plants I can post you if you're interested 🙂 Amazon frogbit, salvinia, a small amount of red root floater, water lettuce.

 

[Mitchabbots]

Hi @megwattscreative,
Apologies, I'm usually quicker with my responses. I had to rebuild my PC. I had to shed Windows 🙂arghh🙂. Now on Linux Fedora KDE. Much better 😀
Yes, I will add another top plant. I love the look and there is definitely room for more. Thank you for the offer to post. However, I am a frequent flier at Acres Aquatics, which is just down the road, and a source for my fish/plant stuff. I did have some floaters (I can't remember which), but they overtook my tank and I wasn't too impressed by them. I'll try some others and see where we go from there. I've written down your list though 😛
I definitely need more plants to soak up the CO2 and nutrients. As for the frogbit index, I will revisit and see how it could help me. I think I'm over the initial steep learning curve, but still, there is a lot more to learn. If that ever stops!
Thanks for the input.
Brian

 

[Mitchabbots]

We all make choices with tanks and you've gone without surface floating plants and you removed a fast growing stem plant, and you are using EI, though I note on lower dosage now. With soil I don't think most tanks don't need water column macro nutrients for weeks if not months. I prefer soil under sand to reduce the high water column nutrition it creates especially in the early stages. And from what I can see of your pH indicator you are probably a bit CO2 low, but to make that call you need to know your KH and of course the indicator is always showing the pH as it was 2 or 3 hours ago.
Floating plants help in so many ways. I also plant more of the substrate than you did, with cheap fast growing plants.
I approve thoroughly of some aeration during the dark period to reduce the risk to fish, 5 hours seems a bit much and I think, you may, I can't be sure, losing a considerable amount of the CO2 you have injected in. A couple of hours from one air stone for two hours towards the end of the dark stage, seems to be enough to ensure no gasping fish in most even medium sized tanks. In fact I have run several tanks with 24 hour low bubble count CO2 without fish distress, losses and no aeration. But in the summer especially, some night time aeration is almost certainly a good idea. Some bigger fish of course are more vulnerable, for harlequins and gourami fish both are pretty tolerant in terms of moderate O2 levels and CO2 levels around 20 ppm.
I'd also try a 6 hour photo period for a week. Then 7 hours and aim to work towards 8 hours. But above all, I personally would use hornwort, Indian fern and frogbit to cushion the tank during the initial stages and give you a visual guide to any deficiencies, the so-called duckweed index. I still use floating plants on a system in its 7th year. But I use very high light and a lot of CO2 and lean dosing. That is my choice of course and my tank is definitely not to everybody's taste I'll load a photo, it should give you something to at least think about, and I promise you my tank is not algae free, but the plants are healthy and the algae is quite minimal.
Good luck.

Hi,
Sorry, for the late response. computer issues.
I've adjusted up the CO2 and it is a healthy green now. For info, my KH is 15.8. High, but I live in the chalky Wiltshire countryside. I've had many a discussion with Darrel (@dw1305) on this. See Water chemistry/KH and GH of my tap water.
Yes, floating plants. I'll try some of @megwattscreative's suggestions too. I've added some more Limnophila Sessiliflora and will keep a better eye on it as it went wild. Lesson there! I also have some dwarf hair grass to get going.
Ahhh, so I may be over doing the aeration. I will adjust the timer to 2 hours late in the night. Light 6, 7, 8 hours +1 weekly. Got it.
Like you, my aim is for a small amount of algae (I am a fan of Otos and Amano Shrimp) that is under control.
I actually like your tank and recognise the harlequins and black phantoms I have in mine.
Best,
Brian

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

I have about 10 otos and 5 armano shrimp as my cleanup crew.

Some snails as well?

For info, my KH is 15.8. High, but I live in the chalky Wiltshire countryside. I've had many a discussion with Darrel (@dw1305) on this. See Water chemistry/KH and GH of my tap water.

Similar tap water to me, basically with as much dissolved limestone (CaCO3) as you can get in solution.

I did have some floaters (I can't remember which), but they overtook my tank and I wasn't too impressed by them.

One advantage of floating plant is that they are really easy to thin, if they get too much.

However, I am a frequent flier at Acres Aquatics,

<"Sam is a good bloke">. I haven't been in for ages, but I will visit at some point.

cheers Darrel