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45x27x30, ‘Apocalypse Now!’

Unfortunately lost half of my tucano tetra... I guess I changed too much water at once (60%+ instead of the usual 30%)...they are sensitive and lost 4 of them in 48hours. Managed to transfer the 5 left into my 80cm were they’re fine since 10 days now. Lesson learned! :-/

The Dario tiger couple are fine.

Otherwise, the tank is running flawless, no algae and good plant growth. Started to taking trial shots for final pic . 🙂

Here’s an shot from 2 weeks ago, needs some serious trimming again tomorrow.
201124123355649416.jpg
 
Hi all,
CooKieS said:
Unfortunately lost half of my tucano tetra... I guess I changed too much water at once (60%+ instead of the usual 30%)...they are sensitive and lost 4 of them in 48hours. Managed to transfer the 5 left into my 80cm were they’re fine since 10 days now. Lesson learned! :-/
Click to expand...
That is a shame, hopefully the remaining ones will be OK. I avoid <"all the real black-water fish now"> they really need a specialist set-up, with softer water than I can manage, and very careful feeding.

I'm hoping to get some <"more Apistogramma soon">, but I'm going to try and get a species that will spawn successfully in our rain-water, without any DI water addition.

cheers Darrel
 
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dw1305 said:
Hi all,

That is a shame, hopefully the remaining ones will be OK. I avoid <"all the real black-water fish now"> they really need a specialist set-up, with softer water than I can manage, and very careful feeding.

I'm hoping to get some <"more Apistogramma soon">, but I'm going to try and get a species that will spawn successfully in our rain-water, without any DI water addition.

cheers Darrel
Click to expand...

yes, they seems happier in their new big tank, my lfs got some captive bred ones, I’ll buy some to have 10 of them again. Honestly they are quite easy and always hungry but better put them in a bigger tank so not so much water parameters change when WC. As you said they need soft water.

here’s one shot just after putting them in the 80cm, so still stressed out:
201124034503673183.jpg
And one from yesterday :
201124034504429826.jpg
Cheers
 
Sorry to hear about your tucanos, they are a beautiful little fish but I did hear of similar episodes in the past.

Great scape, I really like it. Not a fan of iwagumi's myself but the depth here is palpable. I suppose you won't have much to trim behind there though, will you? The substrate looks really high up
 
Hi all,
CooKieS said:
Honestly they are quite easy and always hungry
Click to expand...
That is actually one of the issues.

I had it with Dicrossus maculatus, they were fine why they were growing, and ate absolutely everything. Being used to Apistogramma (which only ate live food, wouldn't eat Ostracods etc) it was a surprise and I got quite blase about looking after them. <"Some-one told me"> that you need to feed them very carefully once they are adult, otherwise they will "pig out on the burgers" and die young, and that it is the same for most black-water fish, they will eat until they burst.

cheers Darrel
 
Hi all,
CooKieS said:
here’s one shot just after putting them in the 80cm, so still stressed out:
Click to expand...
That is very interesting, and why a picture is worth a thousand words. You can see the bright red gill colour, showing through the operculum, which means that you've had an issue which has affected oxygen uptake.

Because you had just had a large volume water change it looks like the issue has come via the tap water. It could be any of these causes:
  • Low dissolved oxygen.
  • High dissolved CO2.
  • Free chlorine.
  • High ammonia.
I'm going to assume it wasn't low dissolved oxygen, or high CO2 levels, which makes high levels of chlorine and/or emergency chloramine dosing very likely. It definitely isn't nitrite (NO2-) poisoning because of the bright red colour, if it was NO2 the gills would be dark.

The settled in picture (in the 80cm) looks much better, but possibly still a bit pink? If you add CO2 to that tank I might dial it down a bit, until any residual pinkness disappears? At which point the gills will have repaired themselves .

cheers Darrel
 
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dw1305 said:
Hi all,

That is very interesting, and why a picture is worth a thousand words. You can see the bright red gill colour, showing through the operculum, which means that you've had an issue which has affected oxygen uptake.

Because you had just had a large volume water change it looks like the issue has come via the tap water. It could be any of these causes:
  • Low dissolved oxygen.
  • High dissolved CO2.
  • Free chlorine.
  • High ammonia.
I'm going to assume it wasn't low dissolved oxygen, or high CO2 levels, which makes high levels of chlorine and/or emergency chloramine dosing very likely. It definitely isn't nitrite (NO2-) poisoning because of the bright red colour, if it was NO2 the gills would be dark.

The settled in picture (in the 80cm) looks much better, but possibly still a bit pink? If you add CO2 to that tank I might dial it down a bit, until any residual pinkness disappears? At which point the gills will have repaired themselves .

cheers Darrel
Click to expand...
think France tends to treat with O3 in the supply,
 
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@dw1305 as always, you’re spot on! thanks for all this precious information...I think it’s chloramine because I didn’t use an bucket (with seachem prime dose) to change water like I usually do that time...I connected the garden hose directly to the tap using some gardena stuff...and put the seachem prime before that directly in the tank...very bad idea. Learning from mistakes!
 
Hi all,
rebel said:
How do you get rid of that? Allow it to degas??
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It isn't stable and will rapidly decompose from ozone (O3) to oxygen (O2). This what <"the link"> says about its toxicity.
Already at a concentration of 0.007 mg / L, which lasts for 96 hours, along with the massive destruction of the gill epithelium, the entire metabolic process is disturbed. This becomes noticeable primarily through a change in the composition of the blood. So, the sodium content in the blood drops to 80%, on the contrary, the content of hemoglobin (140%) and glucose in the blood plasma (1200%) increases sharply. Therefore, the ozone content should not exceed a concentration of 0.002 mg / L.
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Ozone is a really <"strong oxidiser and biocide">, meaning that you can only use it because it isn't persistent.
CooKieS said:
I think it’s chloramine because I didn’t use an bucket (with seachem prime dose) to change water like I usually do that time...I connected the garden hose directly to the tap and put the seachem prime before that directly in the tank
Click to expand...
Yes, unfortunately that does sounds likely. Do you definitely have chlorination, rather than ozone, as your sterilant?

Chlorine, <"at high levels, can do a lot of damage">, really quickly. I've always been a rainwater user, so I'm not sure how quickly <"Prime" binds with the chlorine">. @ian_m might be able to answer? I know he has posted a lot on dechlorinators, and it isn't an area where I have any practical knowledge.

I've been thinking about this and, purely in terms of planted tank keepers, my guess would be that in these sorts of accidents a supply chlorinated with <"chloramine (NH2Cl)"> may be less likely to do damage, purely because it needs to decompose to release chlorine (Cl2) and ammonia (NH3), which will give more chance of the <"chlorine out-gassing along its diffusion gradient"> with the residual ammonia (NH3) being mopped up by the plants.

cheers Darrel
 
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Hi there,

you’re right, it should be chlorine, because that time I use another water conditioner too (arka products) which doesn’t seem as effective or concentrated than seachem
Prime. Anyway, will stay with my bucket technique for now...covid pandemic hasn’t helped with the chlorine in the tap water and maybe some other stuff... :-/

so the tank is now just hosting a couple of Dario tiger Myanmar which are always hiding (they doesn’t seem to like the open space in this tank and the lack of hiding places), I may have to transfer them in the 80p too. Now searching for another stocking options...? I’m aware it’s not an ideal scape for hosting fishes but would like to have some for the final shot. Could always put them in the bigger tank later. 🙂

the tank on the other way is running perfectly fine, that cheap sun sun filter is running perfectly nice and the skylight led is impressive. No algae. Dosing masterline ferts (2ml carbo/1ml npk soil daily). Just trimmed it;

201129091812513550.jpg
 
not called Bob said:
have you looked at Sodium Thiosulfate for chlorine removal, its cheap as chips and a little goes a very long way. its the active ingredient in the off the shelf bottles, but without any marketing and solvent.
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Thanks for the tip man, I’ll take a look at it.
hogan53 said:
Cookie
Put some male Endlers in there👍
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I’ve seen some kohaku guppy at my lfs, I never was a livebearer fish fan but I’ve to say I may change my mind and try some. 🙂

little update; while my bigger tank is an mess, this one is running flawless...at least it’s giving me some positive vibes to get the 80cm back on track!

201215020326871176.jpg
 
So beautiful, I really like how it turned out.

I have a little question, if you allow me. 😁 How is the quality of the VIV tank compared to an ADA 45P? (any bubbles is the seams, is the silicone work nice?)
 
levemsan said:
So beautiful, I really like how it turned out.

I have a little question, if you allow me. 😁 How is the quality of the VIV tank compared to an ADA 45P? (any bubbles is the seams, is the silicone work nice?)
Click to expand...
Thank you very much.🙂

The finish of the viv tank is flawless, can’t see any difference with the Ada.

can you guess what’s the new light upgrade?

201223071220586676.jpg
 
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