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10 ppi vs floss/wool for polishing

I wonder why (and when) filter polishing is required.
... but to some, there is a difference between 'clear' and 'crystal clear') 🙂
Thats really what it is all about for me; that extra bit of clarity mostly for aesthetics, but yes, it also traps algae spores that are always present in the water column. If you have hazy water due to bacterial bloom or suspended organic waste due to imbalance or lack of maintenance etc., deploying polishing pads should probably not be your first course of action.

Cheers,
Michael
 
If you have hazy water due to bacterial bloom or suspended organic waste due to imbalance or lack of maintenance etc., deploying polishing pads should probably not be your first course of action.
50% WC IMO
 
If you have hazy water due to bacterial bloom or suspended organic waste due to imbalance or lack of maintenance, etc., deploying polishing pads should probably not be your first course of action.
I agree with this.

I don't use any carbon or polishing filtration (as advertised above), and I have clear water - even though I have only a few shabby plants. I also feel that it could be covering up issues by using polishing filters rather than dealing with the root cause. (A little like UV being used to clear up algae in the water column but not dealing with the cause of that algae).
 
Just 50 cents from my side. In sump i have multiple sponges like 10, 30 ppm and on the top I have floss, which I change weekly and to be honest floss helps a lot. If I keep it for two weeks it will become completely dark
 
Since this thread was started I’ve stopped using floss. I’m now using 30ppi foam and that’s working well for me at the moment. I got the last batch of foam from Amazon.
 
Since this thread was started I’ve stopped using floss. I’m now using 30ppi foam and that’s working well for me at the moment. I got the last batch of foam from Amazon.
I have also started my mini-experiment. I have added 30PPI foam to one of my Oase Biomasters 250's Pre-Filter. (The other remains at 445PPI). I am going to keep an eye on water quality and also whether pre-filter cleaning is reduced.
 
I have also started my mini-experiment. I have added 30PPI foam to one of my Oase Biomasters 250's Pre-Filter. (The other remains at 445PPI). I am going to keep an eye on water quality and also whether pre-filter cleaning is reduced.
I used to think the Pre filter on my 350 was ok, although not particularly effective. But the foams are now getting clogged badly and more difficult to clean. A price I’d be prepared to pay except they don’t stop the main body of the filter from getting dirty. Or a least more dirty than I would expect. Overall the Biomaster isn’t as good as it should be for the money. The only saving grace for me is that it’s quite quiet for the amount of water it moves around.

A basic Eheim classic with a sponge on the inlet is proving to be pretty effective on my small Nano, just a bit noisier than I’d like.
 
I used to think the Pre filter on my 350 was ok, although not particularly effective. But the foams are now getting clogged badly and more difficult to clean. A price I’d be prepared to pay except they don’t stop the main body of the filter from getting dirty. Or a least more dirty than I would expect.
That is very interesting, as I am currently getting the opposite with my Oase 250. I have been running one of them for 7 months and have never cleaned the internal sponges or HEL-X media. I have to clean the pre-filter every week for sure, but the internal ones are holding up very well indeed.

Did you say you are running the 350 on your nano tank?
 
I used to think the Pre filter on my 350 was ok, although not particularly effective. But the foams are now getting clogged badly and more difficult to clean. A price I’d be prepared to pay except they don’t stop the main body of the filter from getting dirty. Or a least more dirty than I would expect. Overall the Biomaster isn’t as good as it should be for the money. The only saving grace for me is that it’s quite quiet for the amount of water it moves around.

A basic Eheim classic with a sponge on the inlet is proving to be pretty effective on my small Nano, just a bit noisier than I’d like.

I’m about to re-plumb my 5’ tank with a DC pump connected to my FX6.

One thing I’m going to build into the in-line heater manifold body is a spin down/sediment filter. It’ll perform mechanical filtration, removing most stuff before it hits the foam inside of my filter. Drains with a quarter twist of the ball valve and a second or two of flow. There are 3/4” NPT options you could easily bolt to the back of your cabinet, and thread some 5/8” barb x 3/4” NPT fittings into. Connect a hose to the bottom valve and drain 1/2 a gallon onto a bucket once a week.

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One thing I’m going to build into the in-line heater manifold body is a spin down/sediment filter. It’ll perform mechanical filtration, removing most stuff before it hits the foam inside of my filter. Drains with a quarter twist of the ball valve and a second or two of flow. There are 3/4” NPT options you could easily bolt to the back of your cabinet, and thread some 5/8” barb x 3/4” NPT fittings into. Connect a hose to the bottom valve and drain 1/2 a gallon onto a bucket once a week.
That would do it!

However, I am still confused as to why @Aqua sobriquet's pre-filter was offering very little protection for his internal filter media.
 
That is very interesting, as I am currently getting the opposite with my Oase 250. I have been running one of them for 7 months and have never cleaned the internal sponges or HEL-X media. I have to clean the pre-filter every week for sure, but the internal ones are holding up very well indeed.

Did you say you are running the 350 on your nano tank?
Yes, it’s on a 60L Dennerle Cube. I must admit I only clean the pre filter every couple of months or so? I don’t have a regular regime so sometimes more often. Maybe that’s the reason? When I do clean the main filter the remaining water in the bottom is very mucky. The Siporax Bio media is also quite dirty. I’m thinking of taking some comparison pictures once the Siporax in the Eheim has been in there for a few months.

Edit: Sorry, when I said earlier about the foams getting clogged, I meant the pre-filter foams. The others are obviously getting dirty but not too bad. They are coarser though.
 
Do you have a lot of fish in your 60L? I think I have seen both your tanks somewhere (very nice by the way!) but can’t recall the fish stocking levels.

The way I treat the Biomaster, is to keep the pre-filter well maintained (once a week) and the media in the main unit as untouched as possible - only cleaning when the flow is down to unacceptable levels. The pre-filter is my mechanical, and the rest is biological. I have about 20 live bearers in my 100L, and the foams and HEL-X in the 250s main unit never get blocked - and therefore I have not cleaned one for 7 months.

I occasionally check the main unit once every 3 months - mainly out of curiosity! And there is indeed some light build up at the bottom of the bucket. I just leave it there and don’t worry about it. But the rest is not clogged. What I really care about is maintaining flow and only (lightly) cleaning the main sponges once that flow has deteriorated.

Now, the above can all change if you have a tonne of fish in the aquarium with a massive bio-load. But with the 350 on a 60L you would have to have a super amount of fish!! Hence, why I am asking about the stocking levels.
 
Hi all,
The way I treat the Biomaster, is to keep the pre-filter well maintained (once a week) and the media in the main unit as untouched as possible - only cleaning when the flow is down to unacceptable levels.
I don't own any OASE filters (just <"pre-owned Eheim filters"> with a <"sponge on the intake">) but that is what I do as well.

cheers Darrel
 
Hi folks, just picked up an Oase filtosmart 100 thermo as a second filter for my tank. Nothing too fancy but it should help with the flow and some extra filtration! I intend to use this filter for my chemical filtration (purigen and carbon when needed) and polishing, along with skimming.

I was wondering what folks are using for polishing the water. The filter came with 20ppi (first stage) then 10ppi foam (last stage). I used to use filter floss / wool, but would this have any benefit over the 10ppi foam? I’m thinking of replacing the 20ppi with floss then replace the 10ppi foam with my media bags.

It also came with some bio media to use in the compartment that holds the heater. Not that we need much in a planted tank, but I’ll leave it in as it can’t harm 🙂
 
Hi . I find polishing wool is really great for keeping water really clean and clear . I wonder though - I think it is made from synthetic fibres ( I assume , therefore that it is made from mineral oil and is not biodegradable) Does anyone know of a plant based / biodegradable brand ?
Hi Betta Love . I’ve been wondering this question too . I find being a betta keeper , filtration is my biggest issues . I also feel very strongly about using products that are polluting - so , while purified does an amazing job , I will not use household bleach to regenerate it . I tried ixy( ‘green’ bleach , but this did absolutely nothing - ifact / the water quality deteriorated and my fish suffered . So not I use polishing wool - which does a good job , but I think ( as you say) is made from mineral oil. I’m thinking about contacting a manufacturer to ask if they could change the formula .
I’ve also found using the Oase filtrosmart a challenge - particularly because I can’t see what’s happening where it’s under inside the cabinet . I wonder if this is my lack of fishkeeping skills ; I now use the cheap little hag on filter that comes with the 60 litre Superfish scaper ; better leddy light , and using filter wool in filter ( I open up the filter cartridges , put ceramic media and filter will in there ) . This saved on plastic and ‘ customises ’ the filter . But I do wish I could use the filtrosmart thermo !
 
Hi Betta Love . I’ve been wondering this question too . I find being a betta keeper , filtration is my biggest issues . I also feel very strongly about using products that are polluting - so , while purified does an amazing job , I will not use household bleach to regenerate it . I tried ixy( ‘green’ bleach , but this did absolutely nothing - ifact / the water quality deteriorated and my fish suffered . So not I use polishing wool - which does a good job , but I think ( as you say) is made from mineral oil. I’m thinking about contacting a manufacturer to ask if they could change the formula .
I’ve also found using the Oase filtrosmart a challenge - particularly because I can’t see what’s happening where it’s under inside the cabinet . I wonder if this is my lack of fishkeeping skills ; I now use the cheap little hag on filter that comes with the 60 litre Superfish scaper ; better leddy light , and using filter wool in filter ( I open up the filter cartridges , put ceramic media and filter will in there ) . This saved on plastic and ‘ customises ’ the filter . But I do wish I could use the filtrosmart thermo !
Flippin text thingy - that’s Purigen ( not purified!!!
 
Floss is great and cheap for polishing IF you are willing to open your filter very regularly to sling and replace. I am currently using two canisters, so my second has some floss in it - I wouldn’t use it if I was relying on one, and I only use it in the filter at the back
Hi I wonder if you can throw a little light on my difficulties with my Oase thermo filtrosmart . I just find it really difficult to gauge how to use it to keep water from going ‘ foamy’ . I’m a bit of a new by still - and have resorted to the ugly ( but visible and easy to manage) hang on filter with my 60 l scapers tank . The Lily pies looked so much better! Is there something I should know about canister filters - because it was bigger , I guess I thought maybe two weekly’s would suffice , but it was no good . Also - does anyone know if there is a plant based filter wool ? I assume that most brands are made from mineral oil .
 
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