# Ganged timer sockets..



## Iain Sutherland (26 Mar 2012)

I had a small mechanical timer play silly buggers on me yesterday, luckily i was home as it was the metal halide that didnt switch off.  I have tried the electronic single timers but this also let me down. 
This obviously can spell disaster had i not been in so was wondering if there are any specific aquarium/hobby ganged sockets that can be individually programmed short of a new programmable light unit??


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## somethingfishy (26 Mar 2012)

Haha dont ask your best mate who is a sparky!


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## bluemoon280 (27 Mar 2012)

The initial surge from a mh blows the contacts on a mechanical timer. This means it can stick on or off.  

It will also wreck a digital timer . 

You need a contactor which is designed for it.  I had the same issue when I ran twin 250w over my marine tank.

http://www.fastlight.co.uk/acatalog/Contactor.html

Is one such.

Regards


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## ian_m (27 Mar 2012)

My mate years ago used a central heating timeclock to control his tank lights, that was in the days before plug in timers were common.

I thought about using one of these http://www.screwfix.com/p/drayton-lp241-mk4-programmer/86838 to control CO2 and lights as these contain two separate relays (one for hot water and one for central heating) which are rated 1A are suitable for inductive loads like fluorescent lights and solenoids. Set hotwater time for lights and central heating time for CO2, for instance. 

Not suitable for me as I would have had to mount it inside the tank cupboard and access, to set clock & times, would have been difficult, where as with a plug in time I can remove from cupboard, set times and just plug back in.

Instructions available here http://www.draytoncontrols.co.uk


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## somethingfishy (27 Mar 2012)

thats what i would have suggested bud ... plus you can get 3 channel programmers .. 1 for co2 and 2/3 for your t5s and mh


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## ian_m (27 Mar 2012)

You can get rail mount contactors, suitable for halide switching for less than £20.
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Consumer_Units_Index/Wylex_Contactors/index.html

I did consider when re-doing my tank of getting one of these http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MK5732.html a dual channel timer (for light and CO2). However cost, physical size and ease of access to set time made me end up using my existing plug in timers.

If ever I have a "fish tank house" where these could be wall mounted in the "tank control room", this is how I would do it.


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## geaves (27 Mar 2012)

ian_m said:
			
		

> Not suitable for me as I would have had to mount it inside the tank cupboard and access, to set clock & times, would have been difficult, where as with a plug in time I can remove from cupboard, set times and just plug back in.



 :? These come with an electrical back plate, and the programmer plugs into the back plate, and they usually have a built in rechargeable battery should the power go off so it retains your settings, so once the battery has charged you should be able to remove the programmer should the timings need changing.....well that's how how my C/H, H/W programmer works anyway.


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## Iain Sutherland (27 Mar 2012)

Thanks for all the replies folks, gives me plenty to think about...
Suprised that TMC or the like havent designed dedicated programable gang sockets for the trade, suely it would be easy enough and demand would surely be there..



			
				somethingfishy said:
			
		

> thats what i would have suggested bud ... plus you can get 3 channel programmers .. 1 for co2 and 2/3 for your t5s and mh



Looks like you have just talked yourself into a job next time your over mate!


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## dw1305 (27 Mar 2012)

Hi all,


> The initial surge from a mh blows the contacts on a mechanical timer. This means it can stick on or off. It will also wreck a digital timer . You need a contactor which is designed for it. I had the same issue when I ran twin 250w over my marine tank.


This is the reason, discharge lights (HID) start with a massive "short" of 3 or 4KW to create the arc (which heats the gas to a plasma which them emits the light), once the they've started they go back to drawing 175W etc. The initial surge does for any electronic timer and physically blows apart mechanical timers unless they are pretty meaty. You can get around this by using a specially designed "Powerstar" contactor or similar, (or by using an "Eco-star" HID relay timer). All the contactor does is draw off the initial power surge, so it doesn't go through the timer.


> Suprised that TMC or the like havent designed dedicated programable gang sockets for the trade, suely it would be easy enough and demand would surely be there..


There are plenty of dedicated timers for these from hydroponic sites etc. 

I use these ones, but there will be plenty of others: <http://www.progrow.co.uk/acatalog/relays_and_timers.html>.

cheers Darrel


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