# HELP!!! BGA Issues



## thelats1981 (20 Dec 2012)

Hi all, I'm hoping someone may be able to help me with some advice and pointers. Apologies in advance for the length of this, but I feel I'm getting to the point of defeat and this may be last attempt to sort things out.

I've been having ongoing issues with various algae since setting my tank up 6 months ago. Most seems to have settled, however I still have BGA which is present on the substrate. This isn't getting worse as such rather its persisting and looks unpleasant to say the least, I would like to try and get rid of this once and for all!

Can anyone advise of the best way to clear the tank of the BGA (if there is a way!) so that I can move finally move forward.

Brief (?) history of tank;


I started out thinking that I would be ok without CO2 as it was 'too expensive', and I could just use 'non CO2 plants'. *1st error*, since amended with pub bottle, reg/ solenoid set up.
I thought flow was ok as plants were gently swaying with one spray bar half way across the back wall. *2nd error*, since amended with koralia pump, and soon to be further improved with 2nd spray bar to cover entire length of aquarium this weekend.
I didn't think I would need to dose ferts heavily as I've not got a huge plant mass. *3rd and 4th errors*, now dosing EI (6 weeks) and am adding a lots of fast growers this weekend.
I thought CO2 distribution was ok as drop checker showing lime green / yellow at lights on and is on opposite side of the tank to the diffuser.
I am planning a full session on saturday to try and resolve the issues, however this will need to be done with fish remaining in the tank, which I know isn't ideal.

My plan of attack is as follows;

reduction of hardscape, I have 3 pieces of bog wood in the rear right hand side corner which is clearly affecting flow. Will be reduced to one piece.
additional spraybar
Improve CO2 distribution by placing diffuser centrally at the back of the tank (bubbles will be pushed forward and down)
Increase in plant mass
Does this plan sound ok, is there anything I'm fogetting.

Tank Stats & maintenance;

190 litre aqua one evo aquarium
Aquis 1050 external - max flow rate 1050 L /hr but probably works at 700 L/hr
Koralia 1600 circulation pump
2 x T5 39 watt tubes with reflectors (one of these has a pink hue which is soon to be replaced.)
6Kg Pub bottle CO2 with solenoid - 2 hours before lights on and off 30mins before lights off.
Ceramic diffuser (will be upgrading to up aqua inline in next week or so)

EI dosing as per Aquarium plant food instructions
5ml of Easy Carbo daily
Have recently added Carbon to filter to help reduce organic wastes.
40% water change weekly
Filter clean weekly

I will try an upload pics tonight from home to give you an idea of current layout, although this is quite embarrasing due to the state of the tank.

Really appreciate any help, I love this hobby but it really can be soul destroying at times.


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## ceg4048 (20 Dec 2012)

Hello,
	   BGA is related to poor NO3/poor NO3 distribution, or dirty filters.

You need to specify exactly how much KNO3 you are dosing. Many people insist "I'm dosing per XYZ instructions" and it occasionally turns out they were not following the instructions properly, so you need to tell us exactly what you add and how you prepare your solutions if you are preparing a liquid mix with powders.

Cheers,


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## thelats1981 (20 Dec 2012)

Hi Clive,

Thanks for the reply, I was hoping you may catch this thread! Apologies, I'm still getting my head round the maths (not my strongest subject) hence the vagueness which is clearly not useful.

The dosing regime I'm using is as follows;

4 tsp Potassium Nitrate
1 tsp Potassium Phosphate
6 tsp Magnesium Sulphate

All dissolved in 500ml water.

I'm dosing 40 ml 3 x a week, with micro's on alternate days.

Does this help?

I've read your sticky on EI dosing and still have to rely on APF's guidelines - this may give you a clue to my Mathematical ability.

really appreciate any advice


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## ceg4048 (20 Dec 2012)

Hi mate,
		  Yes, thanks seeing the numbers clarifies. The numbers look reasonable to me. That means it's likely either a distribution issue or dirty filter. Clean the filter thoroughly, remove the BGA by hand/suction and try double dosing (80ml x 3) for a couple weeks. Do much larger water changes and more frequently is possible, not forgetting to immediately dose afterward.

Cheers,


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## Dolly Sprint 16v (20 Dec 2012)

Hi

Always worth while whilst doing your water change give the substrate a light hoovering with a gravel / substrate cleaner. I would give the substrate a good hoovering where the BGA is present.

 AQUARIUM FISH TANK GRAVEL CLEANER MEDIUM | eBay

I give mine a quick hoover every time a do my water change. 

Regards
Paul


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## thelats1981 (21 Dec 2012)

Hi Clive, filter is cleaned weekly, although having said that the pipes are not, will sort this. Will also double dose and look to do 60%-70% water changes, although can only do once weekly.

In terms of distribution, I know I cannot rule this out, since I only have one spray bar running, however the BGA is most virulent where flow is the strongest. ie. front of tank where spray bar is directing flow. Should this be expected?

I have a fine gravel (unipac fuji sand) and the BGA is coating each grain which makes removing it impossible unless I take the top layer of substrate off. Will it die off, or should I just take the infected substrate out?

Hi Dolly, I use a gravel vac on the bare substrate each water change, I suspect I have too much bare substrate though! I think a heavy planting session this weekend is in order.....

thanks again for the advice, I'm never going to have a beautiful aquascape, to be honest it's not my aim. I would love the aquarium to be full of healthy plants though, for the fish and me!


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## ceg4048 (21 Dec 2012)

OK, if you clean the filter regularly then that's fine. I don't think the pipes can be blamed, but it always worth cleaning them every now and then. Did you get your KNO3 from APF? There is a possibility that the KNO3 might be mislabeled. It could be another nitrate salt. Can I see a picture of your KNO3 granules?

If you can disable a bulb or reduce photoperiod for a time it will really help. Sometimes a strong light source, say from an open window shade can trigger BGA locally where the light hits. Many people experience a thin line of BGA at the substrate/water interface just due to ambient light and sometimes the only way to defeat it is to put black tape along the substrate line to block the light. You'll need to continually harass the BGA as often as you can. Also, are you sure it's BGA (Cyanobacteria) and not some other form? I know this line of questioning is too obvious but sometimes one needs to look under every stone.

After you fix your flow and manually remove you should do a 3 or 4 day blackout and dose the macro mix only at night in an unlit room. No peeking during daylight hours and no feeding. Total sensory deprivation using black plastic bin bag(s).

Most responsible people will frown at the suggestion to use an antibiotic like Maracyn, but if you can get a prescription for it then it will wipe out the BGA in short order (and maybe your filter bacteria as well so isolate it).

Cheers,


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## thelats1981 (21 Dec 2012)

Hi Clive,

Yeah it came from APF, I'll upload a picture over the weekend. happy to get more from elsewhere if needed.

I guess no reason why I couldn't remove a bulb. They also have deflectors, guess these should definitely come off for the time being?

I'll get pictures of the algae uploaded at weekend (they'll be poor ones off my phone though) you may be on to something - could be black brush, but its slimy and smells earthy. unless of course I have a combination of both. the flow issue would trigger BBA with poor CO2 distribution I guess.

I'll do the blackout once I've cleaned as much out as possible, I take it I should hold back on adding plant mass until this has been completed?

thanks again


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## ceg4048 (21 Dec 2012)

thelats1981 said:


> I guess no reason why I couldn't remove a bulb. They also have deflectors, guess these should definitely come off for the time being?


Hi mate,
Yeah, I mean, fundamentally, whenever there is an algae problem, the automatic and absolutely first response in troubleshooting and rectification has to be the removal as much light as is feasible. All algal forms thrive on light which, believe it or not, is much more important to them than it is to plants. One reason may be that they are small and have very little reserves of food/energy, so they must constantly be in light to produce their food. By comparison, plants have huge energy reserves, in the form of starch and sugars, so being exposed to low energy light and even to total darkness for days at a time is not a problem for them. That's exactly WHY blackouts have a high initial success rate.



thelats1981 said:


> I'll get pictures of the algae uploaded at weekend (they'll be poor ones off my phone though) you may be on to something - could be black brush, but its slimy and smells earthy. unless of course I have a combination of both. the flow issue would trigger BBA with poor CO2 distribution I guess.


 Yeah, oh well, phone pics will be 100% better than what we have now, so just block all light into the room and hold steady. Try to get as close to the subjects while having it still be in focus. If it's slimy and smells earthy then it's almost assuredly BGA, and yes, you may easily have multiple issues which we ought to be able to figure out.



thelats1981 said:


> I'll do the blackout once I've cleaned as much out as possible, I take it I should hold back on adding plant mass until this has been completed?


Yeah, that makes things less complicated, just add them afterwards.


Cheers,


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## Matt Warner (21 Dec 2012)

Hi all, when I had a BGA infestation in my tank, I tried everything from blackouts, really heavy nitrate dosing, filter cleaning etc. nothing seemed to work. I added a massive filter to add loads of flow to the tank and I cleaned the filters thoroughly every water change as they were filthy. I also added loads of co2 so that the drop checker was borderline yellow. After months of fighting it, it finally gave up and disappeared within a month completely. My advices would be not to give up, it will put up a hell of a fight but it will go, just keep up the water changes and filter cleaning, as well as heavy fert dosing and it will give up in the end! 
If it wasn't for Clive's great advice, I would probably a still be trying to get rid of it now!


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## thelats1981 (22 Dec 2012)

complete amateur at this so hopefully should work. various poor pics of algae and also Potassium Nitrate.




http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag48/thelats1981/20121221_181849_zps47b1d998.jpg

http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag48/thelats1981/20121221_1821221_zps5168a7b4.jpg







http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag48/thelats1981/20121218_163522_zps6e27388e.jpg

Before I get slated for it, I realise that there is a dyed skirted tetra in there. It was orphaned by a chap at work along with a couple of other tetras and would have ended up flushed I think. Don't worry, he got the lecture from me.


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## thelats1981 (22 Dec 2012)

close up of algae.


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## ceg4048 (22 Dec 2012)

Hi,
I edited your posts to put the images inline. When you copy the image url just click the little icon that looks like a tree (fourth from the right, second row) then paste the url in the box and click "insert".

Anyway, you know, to tell the truth, the algae on the gravel looks like BBA to me mate. I mean, unless the photo has an incorrect color balance, BGA is dark green and covers the affected area with what looks like a thin sheet. That's why it's called Blue Green Algae. BBA is in small tufts and is black. That's why it called Black Beard Algae.

Unless this is some optical illusion on my part this is a CO2 stability issue, not a nitrate issue.
I copied this image from JamesC's algae guied and this is typical BBA:




This is typical BGA:




Your photo looks like what's in his BBA photo.

If the diagnosis is correct then this is another issue entirely and is attributable to poor CO2 or poor CO2 stability.

In any case your Koralia powerhead (or whatever brand that is) should be moved to the back wall equidistant from the right end of the spraybar and the right wall of the tank, and should be mounted at the same level as the spraybar, pointing straight ahead (not down or towards the side/center).

Have a look at James' Planted Tank - Algae Guide and confirm what algae this is.

Cheers,


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## thelats1981 (22 Dec 2012)

Hi Clive,

Apologies for wasting your time on this, you diagnosis is correct, its BBA. I already know flow and CO2 need improving so the plan is;

installation of 2nd spray bar, done today, now have spray bars across whole width of tank. Not a huge surprise with CO2 distribution as its only been blowing around one half of the tank although this is where the algae is growing!

Next step is to get an inline diffuser if you recommend?

Until this arrives, would it be best to place the diffuser under the inlet to filter so that it goes through filter and comes out across spray bars? I guess I'm going to cause more fluctuations in CO2 while I correct the positioning.

In terms of CO2 levels, I've got a bubble counter but the CO2 is flying out so fast cant really count them. Drop checkers yellow rather than lime green to be honest but fish all ok.

I'll increase the easy carbo to double dose as well.

Anything else I should do? How quickly am I likely to see an improvement? I'm not impatient, just want to ensure that what I do is actually improving things and be able to judge if this is happening!

thanks again.


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## ceg4048 (22 Dec 2012)

Oh well, no worries. Knowing what you're dealing with is half the battle. That's why I go to great lengths to check under every stone, and that's why photos are so very important.

Anyway, yep, port the gas output directly into the filter inlet just as you mentioned. Your dropchecker has 4dhK water in it right? Otherwise the color might be misleading.

If you want to see quick improvement then you might want to consider carpet bombing via 3X or more liquid carbon bottle suggested dosing. After a day or two the BBA should start to turn pink and that tells you that you are on target. Do large water changes and re-dose. From your first photo it doesn't look like there are any Excel sensitive plants in there such as Riccia. I don't know how the rainbowfish respond to it though.

I would continue to use large daily doses of the liquid carbon at the beginning of the photoperiod and only slowly withdraw it. If you've fixed the problem with the changes that you made then it won't come back in such a widespread manner, perhaps just a little on some hardscape.

As far as an inline diffuser, many report success with any of the Up Atomizers, although I've not used this model myself. Folks report that you normally need to be able set your regulators working pressure to approximately 2 Bar. There are others, such as the CalAqua inline, but these are glass and are expensive. Just make sure you get one that has the same inside diameter inlets/outlet ports as the ID of your filter hose so that you do not restrict flow and defeat the purpose. You may discover that porting to filter works a treat. See how you get on with that. If the filter burps a lot or rattles due to gas buildup then change to the inline device.

Cheers,


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## Dolly Sprint 16v (22 Dec 2012)

We all know that excessive lighting period can switch on the algae into growing - I have read the above thread replyies + Initial posting and there is no mention of the lighting periodicity.

Regards
paul.


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## Manrock (22 Dec 2012)

A Siamese Algae Eater (SAE) would clear that lot in a few days - and keep it away for good. Biological warfare!


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## jack-rythm (23 Dec 2012)

Or ottocinclus  

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2


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## thelats1981 (24 Dec 2012)

Hi Clive, apologies for delay coming back to you. drop checker has 4dhk bromo blue solution bought from AE. My confession here is that it already looks like a yellowy green not blue, which is why I take it to yellow. however this also means I'm not really getting any accuracy from it. I'll upload a pic of the solution straight from the bottle to give you a better idea. not sure how to remedy this?

Filter is not burbing or rattling, although I'm not seeing small bubbles coming out of the spray bar. I'm I correct in assuming this is because they have dissolved before coming back out?



Dolly Sprint 16v said:


> We all know that excessive lighting period can switch on the algae into growing - I have read the above thread replyies + Initial posting and there is no mention of the lighting periodicity


 
Hi Dolly, apologies I should have advised earlier. I had a 6 hour photoperiod which has been reduced to 5 hours for the time being. On Clive's advice I have also removed the reflectors from the lights and removed a tube for the time being. I'm not after ultra fast growth anyway, just want a nice healthy shrubbery in there!


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## thelats1981 (24 Dec 2012)

Hi Manrock and Jack - Rythm,

I have 4 otto's in there, think the algae has been too prevalent for them to cope with.

I've never seen a true SAE in any of my LFS and don't want to end up with a look a like which won't touch the BBA.

I also want to solve the issue, or at least improve it so that any fauna can keep it at bay rather than trying to use them as a cure. I guess it shows that something is wrong in there, plan is to fix it if possible!

Having said that I actually really like SAE's and Otto's!


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## jack-rythm (25 Dec 2012)

Check out the zebra ottos their beautiful. I think the trick is to learn how to control your lighting. Once this is mastered you can control your tank. Flow, lighting and water quality all boil down to the consequences of algae blooms. Stick it out.. It won't hang around once you crack it  

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2


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## ceg4048 (25 Dec 2012)

thelats1981 said:


> ...drop checker has 4dhk bromo blue solution bought from AE. My confession here is that it already looks like a yellowy green not blue, which is why I take it to yellow. however this also means I'm not really getting any accuracy from it. I'll upload a pic of the solution straight from the bottle to give you a better idea. not sure how to remedy this?
> 
> 
> 
> Filter is not burbing or rattling, although I'm not seeing small bubbles coming out of the spray bar. I'm I correct in assuming this is because they have dissolved before coming back out?


Yes, the pump impeller chops them up and they take more time to navigate their way through the maze of the filter's media, so they wind up dissolving, although some may get trapped and build up, only to get spat out roughly when the pressure builds.. That's why I mentioned about the rattling and burping.

Anyway, I totally agree with you. There's no point using fish to solve plant problems, as fish can only rarely fix plant health issues. You must fix the underlying, fundamental root cause of a health issue. Have a look at the thread=> Reliability of Drop Checkers | UK Aquatic Plant Society
Perform the pH checks discussed in that thread and report the numbers back so we can have a better idea of how the gas is behaving.

Cheers,


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## thelats1981 (31 Dec 2012)

Hi Clive,

Apologies for the comms black out. Christmas is a horrendously busy time, even for an atheist. I've not had time to sit down with the tank and do the pH test, aiming to do it this weekend and will get the results posted.

I've upped the CO2 slightly with no affect on fish, but don't want to go crazy as this is still feels like shooting in the dark until I do the pH tests to see how things are working.

On a positive, the algae, whilst still there in moderation appears to have hit a wall and is not showing any further growth.

I've noticed a reduction in the velocity of the water from the spray bars, which is to be expected. The jets are dropping slighting before hitting the front glass. Would you recommend the Koralia placed centrally on the back wall facing the front glass? If so, only during CO2 / lights on time?

Still no probs with the filter, it has burped once, however this was not long after a filter clean and could easily be trapped air.

I also noticed that the bubbles from the ceramic diffuser were starting to become larger, I've cleaned this as well. Starting to wonder whether I will need a second one to have in while I deep clean the other. I guess the inlines have the same problem with build up and still need regularly cleaning? Never an easy option!

Anyway, thanks for all your help to date. The info and knowledge you share is priceless, as is the additional confidence I get when you explicate the processes. No matter how much reading and research you do, it can still feel like you are missing something.

Have a great New Year.


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## ceg4048 (31 Dec 2012)

Hi mate, thanks very much and no worries, it's a busy time for all, no doubt.


thelats1981 said:


> I've noticed a reduction in the velocity of the water from the spray bars, which is to be expected. The jets are dropping slighting before hitting the front glass. Would you recommend the Koralia placed centrally on the back wall facing the front glass? If so, only during CO2 / lights on time?


The best place to start for that Koralia is to have it's output vector match as best as possible that of the spraybar. Looking at your photo on the previous page, it appears that your spraybar does not extend all the way across the tanks back wall. There seems to be a gap between the right end of the bar and the right side wall. Right in the middle of that gap is exactly where the Koralia should be placed, about at the same height, pointing parallel to the jets from the bar.

In the image that you've shown, in that configuration with the pump on the left wall pointing diagonally, can you see that it forces the water away from where the spraybars are trying to guide the flow? What we hope for in a typical spraybar configuration is is that the bar's output sends flow vertically down the front glass and then straight towards the rear. But the Koralia may be powerful enough to disrupt that "flow shape" and to push it off-course to the right. Can you visualize that? If the Kolralia is placed at a location where it can create a similar "flow shape", then it's output will be in concert with, and assisting the spraybar, instead of distorting and disrupting it.




thelats1981 said:


> I also noticed that the bubbles from the ceramic diffuser were starting to become larger, I've cleaned this as well. Starting to wonder whether I will need a second one to have in while I deep clean the other. I guess the inlines have the same problem with build up and still need regularly cleaning? Never an easy option!


Well, it should never take more than 10-20 minutes or so to completely clean the disk. Just dip it in bleach solution and then thoroughly rinse. The stronger the solution, the more quickly it will be cleaned (I use undiluted bleach and it vaporizes algae/organic film buildup in a matter of seconds, then I just rinse under a strong kitchen tap flow - messy, slimy, but quick). And yes, inline devices have the same problem - and are more difficult to clean because the bleach has to be poured in and is more difficult to purge. If you wrap your inline device in dark paper then it will stay clean and effective for much longer.

Reconfigure the pump location and snap another photo of it so we can see.

Cheers,


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## AverageWhiteBloke (31 Dec 2012)

> My confession here is that it already looks like a yellowy green not blue, which is why I take it to yellow


Apologies if someone else picked up on this, I did read through just never seen. If your 4DKH fluid with the bromo already added is green before you put it in the DC and tank then that sounds like a faulty batch unless some thing's changed I haven't heard of! Your 4dkh should be blue when exposed to atmospheric air. Another thing worth mentioning is you seem to be breaking down and cleaning your filter too many times IMO.  Nothing against keeping a clean filter but after strip down they take a couple of days to get up to their full working capacity again and loaded with good bacteria. Once a week cleaning is breaking up the filter just when it's getting going.
Patience is another main factor. When I read back your OP you say you were ready for giving up! So many people have been there myself on many occasions  It often causes you to knee jerk and try this today then that tomorrow and then something else when you read some more info from a post that may be similar to your situation or not at all.
Nothing advised to you thus far will kill that algae off by the end of the week. Everything advised so far will, if kept up regularly sway your tank back in the favour from algae to plants. The high dosing of liquid carbon will without a doubt kill the algae but until the other issues are resolved it will come back. It's a constant battle between the two even when your plants are healthy. They just sit in the tank waiting for a chance to flourish.
I would heed all the advice Clive has said, put the Koralia where it needs to be for best flow, make sure your DC fluid is ok and set the co2 so it is yellow at lights on and pretty much stays that way until lights of. Generally 2 hours before lights on and 2 before lights off. Your dosing has been cleared as ok so keep that up. Once a week change 50% of the water and blitz that algae with EC by spraying affected areas with a syringe when dosing rather than just in the tank. Importantly, do that regularly and try and keep out of the tank for while.

Some faster growing plants would also be a benefit like hygrophilia. I couldn't see a full tank shot but it looked a bit sparsely planted.


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## thelats1981 (31 Dec 2012)

Hi Clive, sorry, i extended the spray bar across the tank the other day. I thought this would be most efficient in terms of CO2 distribution, however it has affected the velocity of the water coming out. The water starts to drop about 2 thirds of the way across the tank, i.e. towards the front glass. Overall there seems to be a more even movement of the plants.

Would there be a benefit in the powerhead on the back wall or would this just start to 'confuse' the existing flow?

I still think the wood hardscape is probably affecting flow too much, I'm on the lookout for some smaller branch like wood as I think the cories and kuhli's appreciate it in the tank. I didn't deliberately go for such large pieces, it always looks smaller in the shop, luckily I haven't done it with fish yet.


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## thelats1981 (31 Dec 2012)

AverageWhiteBloke said:


> Apologies if someone else picked up on this, I did read through just never seen. If your 4DKH fluid with the bromo already added is green before you put it in the DC and tank then that sounds like a faulty batch unless some thing's changed I haven't heard of! Your 4dkh should be blue when exposed to atmospheric air. Another thing worth mentioning is you seem to be breaking down and cleaning your filter too many times IMO. Nothing against keeping a clean filter but after strip down they take a couple of days to get up to their full working capacity again and loaded with good bacteria. Once a week cleaning is breaking up the filter just when it's getting going.
> Patience is another main factor. When I read back your OP you say you were ready for giving up! So many people have been there myself on many occasions  It often causes you to knee jerk and try this today then that tomorrow and then something else when you read some more info from a post that may be similar to your situation or not at all.
> Nothing advised to you thus far will kill that algae off by the end of the week. Everything advised so far will, if kept up regularly sway your tank back in the favour from algae to plants. The high dosing of liquid carbon will without a doubt kill the algae but until the other issues are resolved it will come back. It's a constant battle between the two even when your plants are healthy. They just sit in the tank waiting for a chance to flourish.
> I would heed all the advice Clive has said, put the Koralia where it needs to be for best flow, make sure your DC fluid is ok and set the co2 so it is yellow at lights on and pretty much stays that way until lights of. Generally 2 hours before lights on and 2 before lights off. Your dosing has been cleared as ok so keep that up. Once a week change 50% of the water and blitz that algae with EC by spraying affected areas with a syringe when dosing rather than just in the tank. Importantly, do that regularly and try and keep out of the tank for while.
> ...


 
Hi AWB, I definitely think its a faulty batch. I've got some bromo and 4dkh solution (seperate) on its way. 

In terms of filter maintenance, I see where you are coming from in terms of bacteria colonies. TBH, I've read a lot recently about keeping the filter clean at all times, obviously as a direct result of the plants struggling there is a high level of organic waste / matter in the tank and subsequently in the filter.I dont mess with the bio media, just empty it, get the gunk out of the canister itself and clean the mechanical filters in tank water. 

I'm still hanging in there, I was definitely having a bad day, and I thought this would be relaxing for me! I lose it sometimes when you see the expenditure spiralling out of control. I don't have a huge budget, or spare cash, and when I started out I never imagined I'd be going 4 times over the budget! £180 of gorgeous crypts from the TGM melting into nothing (due to Solar like lights and no CO2) was the starting point.

I'm spot dosing at the minute which is clearing up, and have some more Neutro CO2 from AE on the way.

fingers crossed!

anyway, off to have an unreasonably early beer so that I can get through the tedium of another average New Years Eve.

Thanks to you all, have a good one.


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## ceg4048 (1 Jan 2013)

thelats1981 said:


> Hi Clive, sorry, i extended the spray bar across the tank the other day. I thought this would be most efficient in terms of CO2 distribution, however it has affected the velocity of the water coming out. The water starts to drop about 2 thirds of the way across the tank, i.e. towards the front glass. Overall there seems to be a more even movement of the plants.


OK, yeah, that happens because of the additional volume and outlet area which means a more muscular filter is needed to fill the volume and energize the flow through the extra holes. I normally use two filter, each attached to one of the bars, but that's more complicated and isn't always an option.



thelats1981 said:


> Would there be a benefit in the powerhead on the back wall or would this just start to 'confuse' the existing flow?


Yes there is always a benefit, as lo as you don't disrupt the flow patterns. There are a couple of options. You can mount the Koralia in the middle, just under that grey joint of the two bars, or you can mount it just under the middle of the last third to help boost that flow. Just keep it parallel to the jets from the bar. See which works better by crushing some flake food and dropping the flakes to see how the move. Keep in mind that the flow pattern of the Koralia is in the shape of a cone. Stick your hand in the water at various distances from the nozzleso that you can feel the shape of it's output.



thelats1981 said:


> I still think the wood hardscape is probably affecting flow too much, I'm on the lookout for some smaller branch like wood as I think the cories and kuhli's appreciate it in the tank. I didn't deliberately go for such large pieces, it always looks smaller in the shop, luckily I haven't done it with fish yet.


Yes, but that's just life in the big city. Other people have different variations of the same problem, like having huge jungle style plant mass which also blocks flow. We just need to find enough flow to overcome the obstacles. Open style savannah type scapes have it a little easier. No big deal.

Cheers,


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## AverageWhiteBloke (1 Jan 2013)

Ok mate I understand. regarding the filter, not sure how much damage to the bacteria colony is damaged just with exposing it to the air but washing in tank water is the main thing. I don't think leaving your filter for 3 or 4 week would do any harm. In a balanced tank with plenty of healthy plants combined with a water change there maybe a small ammonia spike which goes unnoticed, in fact I suspect the plants enjoy it and the ph being low is less toxic to fish. In your case with few unhealthy plants and fluctuating co2 it could be extra fuel for your algae.
Sometimes the costs can spiral but there's always some cheaper options. If you want some cheap fast growers maybe ask in the for sale section, being fast growers people often bin them so I'm sure someone would post 
You some if you covered the postage costs. you can always change these to other plants when the algae battles won. You can also diy liquid carbon but that's another story.


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## thelats1981 (28 Feb 2013)

Apologies for the lack of activity, I've not had much chance to work on the tank lately. firstly thanks to everyone for helping me out. My BBA is now gone, I think largely down to stability in CO2 and addition of Glut. I'm still having issues with melting, which I realise is down to Co2 distribution. I've got a couple of questions regarding improving my flow which I'll post on a seperate thread. thanks again, hopefully I'll be able to put some time into sorting things out.


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## jacaranda (28 Feb 2013)

Hi there ,

Is the picture of the potassium nitrate the correct stuff?

Mine is the same

Cheers !


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## russw (28 Feb 2013)

I'd also like to know if the picture is of true potassium nitrate please


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## thelats1981 (14 Mar 2013)

Jacaranda / Russw, I believe this is the correct stuff. I upped the dosing and the BGA has pretty much gone, only a very small amount between substrate and glass


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## russw (14 Mar 2013)

Hi thlats1981
Thanks for that, it looks like the stuff I got from AFP. When you say you upped the dosing was that all the EI mix or did you just increase the amount of Pot. Nit in your EI recipe?

Cheers

Russ


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## thelats1981 (14 Mar 2013)

Hi Russ,

kept to the APF mix, just added more. seemed to do the trick. I believe its the nitrate that BGA doesn't like, so I guess you could just add more KNO3, but i couldnt be bothered complicating things! now just got to master CO2, oh and install my new FX5 this weekend! happy days!

rob


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