# New to planted tanks and would appreciate help with a set up...



## GregP (21 Apr 2014)

Hi all.

I am considering a planted tank system and would appreciate some help starting off.

A bit of background on me...

I am relatively new to this site and have been keeping fish for around six years. This was mainly a medium sized reef aquarium which I had success with in the reef keeping forums, and I also spent some time moderating and participating as an advisor for anyone with questions about all aspects of reef keeping. An overview of my system is outlined here..

http://www.ultimatereef.com/TOTM/2012_january/

The instability of reef keeping in general, accompanied with the extremely high maintenance and costs led me to close the tank down and leave fish keeping for a year.

I now have a hankering to start something again, but a lower maintenance system which I will not worry about in the same way I did when I had upwards of £2000 just in livestock.

My thoughts so far (subject to change from advice of course) is...

TMC signature 60 x 45 x 30cm
Gro beam 1500 ultima
....and thats about it.

What I would really like help with is some advice on....
- canister filter/media selection
- CO2 (is it a must?)
- additional supplements
- kit list (tests etc)
- beginner plant selection
- substrate
and anything else that people think may be useful.

I would like to make it as fuss free as possible, but not at the expense of achieving what I want, a colourful, healthy, balanced, relatively minimalist aquarium.

I am a total noob to planted tanks so the shoe really is on the other foot coming from my involvement in the reef world, so please excuse any ignorance I show in the information above.

I am keen to learn and would appreciate any help anyone can give.

Best Regards

Greg


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## Vivian Andrew (22 Apr 2014)

Hi Greg,

Welcome to UKAPS, sure you will see lot help here.

Nice reef tank you got there

Go for Eheim classic 350 canister filter comes with media 

Co2 is best to have for good growth but for easy growth plants you can use liquid co2 or DIY  

For substrate check the below link and decide which one to go

http://www.ukaps.org/index.php?page=guide-to-substrates

And for easy growth plants check the link below

http://www.tropica.com/en/plants/difficulty/easy.aspx


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## James D (22 Apr 2014)

Hi Greg, welcome to the forum.

I've just been looking at your Marine tank, it looks beautiful, based on that I'm sure you can make any planted tank a success.

Your choice of tank and light seem spot on, those TMC tanks look to be a great shape for scaping and the Gro Beams are tried and tested, remember though, go easy on the light, along with CO2 distribution, it seems to be the root of most of our problems on here!

As for your other equipment I would have a look at some of our more successful members' journals and see what they're using. 

Canister Filter: General opinion is that you need x10 flow. e.g. If your tank is 100 litres you need a filter that can deliver at least 1000 litres per hour. As you probably know when they're full of media etc most filters won't deliver the LPH that they claim so go bigger if you can! You don't need to worry about the media too much, if you search on the forum you'll find better advice but you should only need what comes with the filter, I personally left out most of my media and only have one basket in use (with ceramic pasta looking things) and some foam, the rest are empty, flow is more important. You might want to try a bit of Purigen in there as it does add a degree of clarity to your water.

CO2: It depends what you're aiming for and what plants you want etc, have a look at some 'lo tech' tanks and journals on the forum, they can look amazing. If you do want CO2 have a look at the 'Fire Extinguisher' tutorial, I wouldn't bother messing around with any other system. You'll find out that there are plenty of different methods of delivering CO2 into your water and you'll struggle to get an answer about which is best.

Substrate: ADA aquasoil is tried and tested but also fairly expensive, there are cheaper and DIY substrates but it's up to you. In my current tank I've just used plain old unipac sand but I'm mostly growing plants on my hardscape.

Test Kits: As Clive would say.. forget about these.

Plants: Have a look at the tropica website, plants are split into categories of ease of use etc.

My best advice would be to look at some of the tanks in the 'Featured Journals' section. Members like George Farmer have lots of experience and I should imagine have tried many different types and brands of equipment before settling on what they use now, George has the same TMC tank as you're interested in so you won't go far wrong looking at his journals which will list his equipment etc.

I hope I've answered your questions to some extent, I'm relatively inexperienced myself but you can learn fairly quickly on UKAPS as there is a wealth of information and experts here. 

Cheers

James


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## GregP (22 Apr 2014)

James/Andrew.

Thank you for taking the time to reply and thank you for your nice remarks about my previous aquarium.

The advice you have given is just what I need......a good place to look and start reading. I am still in two minds about where to begin my planted tanks. I may go low tech and just get a relatively inexpensive system to reacquaint myself before investing a lot of money.

On the flip side I may also invest in a high tech set up early to avoid re-purchasing equipment/tanks etc as I go along.

For now i'll keep reading and check back in soon.

Our of curiosity James, why no test kits? I lived and died by them as a reef keeper, but maybe things are different in the planted world?

Thanks again and best regards

Greg


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## Andy Thurston (22 Apr 2014)

Youll scare yourself testing for nitrates, us planted enthusiasts pour nitrate and phosphates into our tank these are plant food and you could fail without them. These don't cause algae too much light and not enough co2 for the amount of light causes algae. The only tests you need are a ph pen and a tds pen. Its a completely different game compared to marines
Happy learning


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## GregP (22 Apr 2014)

Thank you fot that information. It is good to know.

If you don't mind me asking, why a TDS pen? Do planted tank owners also use RO or is the pen for other reasons?

On the subject of lighting, has anyone heard or read anything good about the new TMC aqua bars? They are another contender for my lighting


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## Andy Thurston (22 Apr 2014)

Some use ro but its mainly shrimp keepers that use tds pens to get perfect conditions for breeding sensitive shrimp
Ian Holdich's used aqua bars in his journal heres a link to the page where he added them
http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/back-to-my-roots.30597/page-6


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## foxfish (22 Apr 2014)

Hi Greg, welcome to the forum.
Rule number one... don't get hung up on lighting... it is the downfall of most beginners in the planted tank game!
The governing factor is C02, low tech or high tech it just the same... match you light to the C02 available.
Just bear in mind that to much C02 will kill livestock so it is a balance between C02 & light that really matters.
Low tech spells low light, high tech spells very thoughtful lighting & Co2 matching, but still relatively low light.. just much faster growth due to the higher amounts of C02 available.


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## GregP (23 Apr 2014)

Thanks for the above, thats definitely food for thought.

So what is considered low light and what would be intense light? In terms of watts per litre? I know there is no exact rule and it depends on tank depth, water clarity etc but it gives me something to work with in my mind. Perhaps a suggestion for a TMC signature other than the grobeam? I am starting to appreciate the balance between CO2 and light and that this balance is difficult to obtain.

I am considering a simple low light inexpensive set up to trial things a bit and begin to learn. Equally I am also think of investing in the tank I really like (the TMC signature) and then upgrading the kit as I go along and my experience/success grows. It is tough to know where to start but the more I read the clearer it is becoming.

Also how is the co2 'matched' with the light? Is it just a case of tinkering to find the optimum levels through adjusting the Co2 canister? Any advice on starter co2 kits?

Thanks again


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## Andy Thurston (23 Apr 2014)

Co2art have some good cheap fire extinguisher regs with solenoids for about £40 then all you need is fire extinguisher, some co2 safe tubing, a couple of check valves, and some form of diffusion method eg. An up inline or a simple glass/ceramic.


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## foxfish (23 Apr 2014)

If we are talking about a C02 injected set up then you need to get in as much C02 as possible without stressing your livestock & then try to establish the ideal amount of light to give strong growth without establishing algae!
This is not always easy to achieve & we very often compromise by using less than perfect lighting & C02 limits.
Adjustable light intensity is a fantastic asset to have available....


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## Dan Wiggett (23 Apr 2014)

Hi Greg, I remember you from the Salty side when I was in it a little while ago...

I also have the TMC signature tank http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/a-fool-and-his-money.31857/

Just to add to what the other guys say. Test kits are useless here. Dose as much co2 as you can without killing anything. Dose as much fertilizer as possible, it's almost impossible to overdose. Do 50% water changes for the 1st 2-3 months and also 6 hours a day lighting. As per marine par is far more important than watts here. 6500k is what your looking for roughly in terms of colour temp. About 10x tank turnover is correct. Algae problems are ALWAYS caused by too much light, not enough fertilizer, low flow or low/fluctuating co2.

I am much happier running a tropical plated tank than a marine. (Looks better, cheaper, less hassle, no worrying) and the community here is much better than the salty side 

Good luck buddy


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## Twisty (24 Apr 2014)

I wish I'd read this from Clive (Ceg4048) before I ever bought any CO2 equipment as I think flow/distribution influences everything from equipment to hardscape to plant layout.  This shouldn't paralyze you but make you realize you need a plan in place before buying a regulator and dropping a diffuser in a tank then wonder why your tank doesn't look stunning which is exactly what I did.

http://ukaps.org/forum/threads/flow-rates.32752/#post-348211

"Hello,
The 10X rule is a rule of thumb which helps to guarantee that there is sufficient energy to move the fluid to most, or all regions of the tank. Flow rate should always be considered within the context of the distribution of that energy throughout the various zones of the tank (high, low, left, right, center and so forth). So having some arbitrary flow rate is meaningless if the distribution of that kinetic energy is uneven, because if the distribution and flow profile are incoherent then there will be areas that have too much energy while other areas suffer insufficient flow. In that case, both areas are susceptible to the risk of nutrient and CO2 deficiency.

By far, the most critical function of flow/distribution is the delivery of CO2 and Oxygen to the leaf. Terrestrial plants have the advantage in this regard because CO2 diffuses and transports easily in air. On the contrary, CO2 or Oxygen dissolved in water diffuses and transports at a rate of approximately 10,000 slower than in air. This is a major disadvantage for aquatic plants. Gaseous transport in plants is, by a huge margin, the most important mechanism to their survival and prosperity, so in water, the first trick is to increase the CO2 partial pressure, which is accomplished by pressure injection. Higher pressure helps to transport the gas but the diffusion and transport rates are still appealingly low.

There is a much less well known obstacle to the movement of the gas in fluids. Fluids moving across a solid object have a frictional component known as viscosity. We all know the term from motor oil commercials but it applies to any fluid. This friction slows the movement of the fluid to nearly zero at a short distance from the surface of the object. In our case, the leaves will have a layer of stagnant water surrounding it, referred to as the boundary layer. Boundary layers having near zero velocity also therefore have a high static pressure. This high pressure pushes against the rest of the water above it and is an impediment to the movement of nutrients and CO2 from the larger water area. So, CO2 and nutrients inside the boundary layer will slowly move across the plants exterior membrane but replenishment of the gasses and nutrients from the free stream into the Layer are impeded due to the high static pressure of the Layer. As fluids are put in motion their static pressure decreases and the Boundary Layer thickness becomes thinner up to a certain speed. Above that speed, the Boundary Layer again thickens up. So there is a small range fluid velocities near the leaf surface where increased flow reduces the thickness of the Boundary Layer and facilitates transport of nutrients/CO2 to the leaf. At velocities below this range the thickness and pressures are high, and above the range the thickness and pressures also increase.

Clever distribution schemes therefore allocate enough energy to all locations so that the fluid velocities are within the acceptable range in all the zones.

We normally advise that if all the leaves can be seen to be gently swaying, then this is an indication of good flow distribution. If some are moving like flags during a storm while others are static then this is an indication of poor distribution.

You might want to have a look at the video in the post http://ukaps.org/forum/threads/inline-devices.2965/#post-32127 to get a better illustration of flow theory."


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## GregP (25 Apr 2014)

Thanks guys. Some more great information there. Am continuing to read up on what I can and my thoughts on a set up change daily. Think I'll wait until I settle on something for sure and then think about a purchase.

Dan I also remember you from UR. Glad you are enjoying the planted side. Your tanks looks great


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## sciencefiction (25 Apr 2014)

That marine setup is gorgeous!!!

Why dont' you just go low tech and save yourself the hassle of another hassle tank  People love their CO2 setups here as it gives the most options but the forum is busy not without a reason, it can be challenging too.
I highly recommend you check out Big Tom's and Alastair's low tech journals here. You'll be amazed. Here is a link to Tom's. It's a long thread well worth the read.

http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/toms-bucket-o-mud-cryptpocalyspe.14521/page-11

I also highly recommend this substrate type from the link below for a low tech like that.  It will give you amazing results with 0 investments after setup and almost self sufficient. No need for CO2 as it gets produced in the soil from decomposition. The plants do grow very healthy indeed.

And good luck  

http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/...-mineralized-soil-substrate-aaron-talbot.html


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## GregP (26 Apr 2014)

Okay, so after some careful thought I have decided on what I am going to do...

I have reserved a Fluval Roma 125 tank and cabinet as a relatively inexpensive way to return to the hobby, to kind of test my enthusiasm for the hobby after a break.

I am not sure if the following constitutes high tech, low tech, or somewhere in between but I plan on adding a few bits and would appreciate any help.

1. The tank comes with an internal filter which I anticipate will be fine for the relatively small fish load I intend to keep. I also like the idea of the internal filter as it mean I don't have to modify the tank, and it also will be very quiet. But I am conscious of the flow not being enough so should I A: keep the internal filter and add a small powerhead or pump? or B: Just modify the tank and go for a larger external filter that comes with the appropriate flow rate of X10 tank turnover (was thinking fluvial 306 @ around 1200lph) I kind of like option A but am keen to know what people think. 

2. I will be adding a Co2 system to help with the plant health/appearance etc. I have had a few conversations in local fish stores and like the idea of a co2 set that can be attached to a timer so that I don't have to switch it off at night. Any suggestions on a sensibly priced all in one set? The LFS did say that you could leave co2 on permanently but I have read a lot suggesting that it is not recommended. Any advice on this?

3. I will also need some ferts and was wondering if anyone could suggest a decent set covering all the essential nutrients? 

4. I was think of starting off with some java fern, anubias and a carpeting plant of some kind. Any suggestions here would be welcomed as well.

5. And finally, my intention was to stick with the twin 20w T8 lights to begin with, as a lot of advice has warned me off going to bright. Does this sound like adequate lighting on a relatively deep tank? I also have my eye on a twin 24w T5 starter to add into the hood if it needs it but my intention was to start with the built in lights, let things settle, and go from there. Does this sounds sensible?

I know there is a lot of questions but I would appreciate peoples help and experience. If anyone could answer a few or all of the questions it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks to everyone so far for being so helpful.

Best Regards

Greg


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## foxfish (26 Apr 2014)

Hi Greg, I would ask you to consider an open top tank as this really adds a nice extra viewing dimension & offers more control over lighting by raising or lowering the lights.
You need to look up EI fert dosing as this is the way to go...
Search for fire extinguisher co2 set up .. this is the best way to go..
Perhaps the most important aspect towards success is flow & C02 distribution, you need to study this point very well.


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## Andy Thurston (26 Apr 2014)

Sounds like a plan to me
http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/new-website-free-worldwide-shipping-on-all-orders.32766/
For co2 kit Pm karol if you need help she'll tailor a kit for your needs
http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/tnc-complete-aquarium-plant-food.24209/
I use this plantfood but am going to buy their ei kit next time

Light sounds good
Its your call with the filter it can be fine both ways but a bit easier and less clutter in the tank with an external


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## GregP (26 Apr 2014)

Thanks for the quick replies guys.

Foxfish, the reason I am not going for an open top tank is that the setup would cost twice as much and I am looking for an inexpensive way to get back into fish keeping, If I'm honest, I am also not a huge fan of them over conventional custom made tanks as I don't want an ultra modern looking set up. I have looked at the previous links relating to flow, and I understand what I need to achieve so I guess its my choice how I try and do that? Thanks for the advice on ferts and co2. 

Big clown, thanks again for the input, I have had a look a the links and will get in touch with the person you suggested if I can't find something suitable sold locally.


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## sciencefiction (26 Apr 2014)

Just answering a couple of points

1)Maybe have a look at his thread below. The aquascapes achieved are amazing and he is using an internal filter and a wavemaker to supplement the flow. He has videos on which you can see how he's positioned them and where they blow(bottom right of his tank)

http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/peisaj-landscape.25906/

4)In terms of the anubias and java fern, they don't like much light. The anubias specifically may get destroyed by algae(mostly green spot algae) if exposed to too much light. The one suggestion would be that anubias needs the rhizome above the substrate but does better if the roots grow into the substrate, especially if it's a nutritious one such as soil).
I'd look into some sort of fast growing stem plant, whichever you like, to add to your current choice of plants. It's best to have both otherwise it's difficult to first cycle the tank, then have it in balance.


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## GregP (27 Apr 2014)

Okay cool. Thanks science fiction

I couldn't find the videos of that members positioning of his powerbeads. You don't have a link do you?

Had another look around at plants using the Tropica site and sticking to the 'easy' section. I want to maximise my chance of any success by picking plants that are not to demanding and working my way up as my experience grows. Pretty much exactly what I did with corals in marines.

So I am thinking of....

Eleocharis parvula for the foreground
Penthorum sedoides and/or Echinodorus quadricostatus for the mid ground (at the base of a piece of bogwood that will be central in the scape)
Microsorum pteropus for attaching to the bogwood itself
Unsure as to whether or not I will add anything to the background but I do like the look of Rotala rotundifolia.

Does that sound sensible?

Reference the substrate, there are literally so many it is tough to know which one to go for. I appreciate that aqua soil is the best but is it really worth the money? If so maybe this is an area where I will invest.


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## sciencefiction (27 Apr 2014)

GregP said:


> couldn't find the videos of that members positioning of his powerbeads. You don't have a link do you?



I can't seem to find on which one it was visible myself but I'll tell you what I saw. He has a U4 internal filter in the right back corner of the tank blowing horizontally to the left. The wavemaker seems to be just next to it(behind it next to the glass I think) but pointed downwards towards the left, that's it. I've never seen such a simple flow outlay to work so well. Must be the wavemaker.


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## GregP (27 Apr 2014)

Okay cool. Any thoughts on the plant choice after your initial suggestions?


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## Andy Thurston (27 Apr 2014)

http://www.ukaps.org/index.php?page=guide-to-substrates


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## GregP (27 Apr 2014)

Yep, saw that. Just wondering if people think the aquasoil is worth it or if there is a mid range product that is good enough for a new starter?


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## Andy Thurston (27 Apr 2014)

Some people think its worth it, i just cant afford it so I just use john innes 3 compost or pond soil with a sand cap but it can be a bit messy when moving plants around though


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## sciencefiction (27 Apr 2014)

GregP said:


> Okay cool. Any thoughts on the plant choice after your initial suggestions?



Not really. I'd just pick a combo of fast and slow growers to ensure some sort of balance. Most stem plants are fast growers and can go in the back as a background plant.  And check their requirements to plant them in the right spot. For example anubias, java fern don't like much light and should go in shady places such as sides/corners, at the base of décor such as wood and avoid planting it near the surface.
Others that like lots of light should go in well lit parts of the tank not obstructed by décor, or the middle of the tank, etc.
And you need to check what grows how tall so you can arrange them.
Also, driftwood and such can obstruct the flow to certain plants. With no flow there won't be adequate CO2, nutrients reaching them which can affect their health.

Obviously, if you use a wavemaker positioned like in the tank I mentioned above it would blow away all the plants in its way and they'll grow like spaghetti.

I'd presume it's a lot easier planting a tank to look nice than achieving what you've done in your marine so you should be just fine.


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## GregP (27 Apr 2014)

Big clown said:


> Some people think its worth it, i just cant afford it so I just use john innes 3 compost or pond soil with a sand cap but it can be a bit messy when moving plants around though



Is that effective? Just using soil? Does it alter the use of ferts or co2 at all?


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## foxfish (27 Apr 2014)

When you talk about a wave makes do you mean a powerhead or an actual osilotiting or on-of every few seconds proper wave maker?


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## foxfish (27 Apr 2014)

Greg there is huge discussion about substrate  & people have there own theories as to how or why they are the best!
Soil is often used in low tech set ups because it is believed that certain mixes will give off Co2 as it decomposes.
Amazonia is a very popular choice because it looks great, it is easy to handle, is loaded with fertiliser & is a very proven product however you could in theory use plan gravel & get fantastic results! 
If you use the estimated index method (EI) then you don't have to worry about ferts in the soil or sand or gravel or whatever ...
Having said that I personly think aqua soil .. Amazonia is just fantastic stuff.
Just keep reminding your self that co2 grows plants, you get some plants that prefer more co2 than others but they will all ajust to the lighting .. If there is enough c02.
Have you thought about how you will get the gas into the water, in tank defuser, external atomiser or reactor?


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## GregP (27 Apr 2014)

I mean just a power head to assist in water circulation, not a wave maker.

Aqua soil seems to have all the bases covered but I think I'd need more than one 9kg bag and that means a good £50 on substrate which is more than I anticipated. Having said that, if it gives the plants the best chance then I think it may be worth it.

Tetra plant complete caught my eye. Seems to get good reviews, but I'm not keen on capping the substrate as I want a soil type look.

Co2 is something I'm trying to get to grips with, and something I'll probably learn more from by using a decent starter kit to understand it better. I'm at a loss with all the valves and diffusers etc. I'm just looking for a small kit that can be operated through a timer. I don't want to be playing around with fire extinguishers etc to be honest. I have seen some aqua grow ones by tmc but I'm not sure what I'm looking at and really need to try and get a grip of it.

My LFS is pretty good so I may go down there and have them explain all the different parts and how they work, advantages etc.

Any advice on the workings of co2 kits is probably what I need the most right now.


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## foxfish (27 Apr 2014)

Well FE is the  way to go & the cheaper option too
Co2 is so important, you will need the two kg size bottle or you will running out of gas in no time!
The whole co2 thing is pretty basic, you won't have any issues understanding the equipment. 
There are fantastic slicky threads on the main forum page.


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## GregP (27 Apr 2014)

Thanks again.

I found this thread particularly helpful after I couldn't find anything obvious in the Co2 section

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=107312

It explained the necessary equipment and what each thing does so I am much more informed about what I need and why.


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## foxfish (27 Apr 2014)

Here is one mate http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/fire-extinguisher-co2.266/


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## foxfish (27 Apr 2014)

In fact you would probably benefit from many of the tutorials   http://www.ukaps.org/forum/forums/tutorials.34/


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## Vito (27 Apr 2014)

Hi Greg, welcome to the side where the grass is greener 
I would strongly recommend a pressurised co2, 2kg FE is ideal and fairly simple to set up, as many people have said before, not enough co2 is far less forgiving and tank full unwanted algae is disheartening. Most ups and downs in a tank are co2 related and mostly due to too much light and not enough co2 and lack of ferts so don't over do the lights unless your pumping good levels of gas.
I've only ever used ADA Aqua soil Amazonia  and I would definitely recommend it especially during your learning stage as you may fall short on your ferts and the aqua soil should cover any shortfall but it's more of a back up so don't scrimp on the ferts.
Make your own fertiliser solutions for EI dosing as it not only saves a lot of money but it's proven, aquarium plant food uk sell all the ferts you need and have videos on what and how much to mix, I would also mix up a bottle of "Dan's Special N" there is a sticky thread on the fertiliser section on this forum, also it's good to have a bottle of easy carbo just in case you need to fend off any stubborn algae. 
If you follow these steps most plants will be easy.
Good luck and I look forward to seeing your progress


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## sciencefiction (28 Apr 2014)

foxfish said:


> When you talk about a wave makes do you mean a powerhead or an actual osilotiting or on-of every few seconds proper wave maker?



I presume you asked me about the wavemaker.  I was referring Greg to Peisaj's journal in terms of flow setup because Greg wants to use the internal filter that comes with the tank in conjunction with additional flow devices.
From what I read from the thread below Peisaj is using a wavemaker, not a powerhead or am I mistaken? He said he uses an internal Juwel filter(not sure why I thought it was a Fluval Uf) and a SUNSUN JVP-100 Wavemaker 2500 l/h to achieve what he's achieved which is pretty amazing.

Here is the thread I am talking about:
http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/peisaj-landscape.25906/


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## GregP (28 Apr 2014)

Vito said:


> Hi Greg, welcome to the side where the grass is greener
> I would strongly recommend a pressurised co2, 2kg FE is ideal and fairly simple to set up, as many people have said before, not enough co2 is far less forgiving and tank full unwanted algae is disheartening. Most ups and downs in a tank are co2 related and mostly due to too much light and not enough co2 and lack of ferts so don't over do the lights unless your pumping good levels of gas.
> I've only ever used ADA Aqua soil Amazonia  and I would definitely recommend it especially during your learning stage as you may fall short on your ferts and the aqua soil should cover any shortfall but it's more of a back up so don't scrimp on the ferts.
> Make your own fertiliser solutions for EI dosing as it not only saves a lot of money but it's proven, aquarium plant food uk sell all the ferts you need and have videos on what and how much to mix, I would also mix up a bottle of "Dan's Special N" there is a sticky thread on the fertiliser section on this forum, also it's good to have a bottle of easy carbo just in case you need to fend off any stubborn algae.
> ...



Thanks Vito. Thats some great advice.

I am going to start off with a simple kit from CO2 art and use some disposable canisters to start off. This is just the way I feel more comfortable starting off. Looks like the ADA substrate is a great choice, but at £70 to fill the tank I am a little unsure if the budget will stretch that far. I don't think one 9kg bag will be enough for a 120l? But if it is that good of an investment then maybe it just needs to be done.

I looked into the EI method and found a couple of good sites. Will look at the one you recommended as well and get to grips with it all.

I hear excess light is a main cause for algae which is why I thought I would start with the 2x20w T8's and see how it goes before considering adding anything additional.

Thanks again for your help.


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