# can i just check something please...



## t1gerbee (14 Aug 2010)

Hi, 


I have now put the substrate in my tank and 3/4 filled it. I have put in john Inns 1, and then covered with gravel (as advised on here) 


... now this may sound really daft to you guys, but being a reefer at heart i'm just unsure of myself.. 


But, does the compost cycle at all? Will it be giving off an ammonia at all? 


I am wondering as i have a mature tank to transfer to this one, so i technically dont have to cycle this tank, but i dont know how compost reacts to water, so clearly dont want to transfer fish if the tank has to go through some kind of natural cycle period because of the substrate.. 

any advice, much appreciated. 


Thanks in advance...


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## chrisfraser05 (14 Aug 2010)

Ah.... I hope you weren't planning transferring fish anytime soon!

When you use terestiral soils in the aquarium you need to leave a long period (over a month) for the chemical changes to take place. There will be a large and prolongued ammonia spike and also the PH of the tank will drop dramatically before settling out.

From what I've read two months should be safe though


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## t1gerbee (14 Aug 2010)

really? Are you sure of that? 

I was advised this set up on here and no one mentioned anything about that length of time needed before stocking. 


Stocking quickly isnt essential as its an upgrade so the fish are happily in another tank... 


but do think someone on here might have mentioned the time scale being so long if that were the case... 


no?


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## t1gerbee (14 Aug 2010)

OK, some digging reveals.. 

1 inch layer of inexpensive, generic potting soil (or "top soil") available from any garden centers or various home improvement stores. (John Innes number 3 recipe is ideal). Avoid soils containing chemical fertilizers (sulfates and nitrates will be converted to toxic H2S and nitrite after soil is submerged). Phosphate and calcium fertilizers (i.e., a little bone meal mixed with soil) may be beneficial. Get non-sterile 'aquatic pond soil' if it's available.


Soil based compost - John Innes #3
1 inch of medium fine gravel (or very shallow layer of sand) to cover the soil layer (the soil bacteria need oxygen, so don't smother the soil layer with rocks, driftwood, etc)
If you have soft-water, you can mix in a calcium source (lime, coral gravel, shells, bone meal, etc) with the soil to make sure plants get enough calcium, GH for their initial set-up.
For tank set-up, start out with many species of fast-growing plants (you want to find the ones that adapt best to your tank's conditions). Examples: Hygrophila corymbosa, Shinnersia riv., Rotala rotundifolia, Ludwigia repens, Limnophila sessiliflora, Hornwort, Riccia, etc.
Provide adequate lighting. This should be at least 2W per US Gallon (3.8L) of fluorescent lighting over the length of the tank for a period of at least 10 hours a day. 'Cool white' tubes are usually all that is required. If you can position the tank so that it can get a little sunlight for at least an hour a day, then do so (make sure water doesn't overheat).
Add room temperature conditioned (no chlorine or chloramine) water. Or add water conditioner right away.
Provide enough water movement (via filters, power-heads, etc) to keep the water safely oxygenated for fish and soil bacteria. (Keeping water safely oxygenated is especially important the first two months with a freshly submerged soil). Water circulation near the water surface will break up possible bio-film development.
Test water every two days for pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate (for at least two months or until you are sure they have gone). There may be a temporary increase in these levels while the soil is getting established (first 2 months), especially if the soil was artificially fertilized. Consider the use of Prime or Amquel daily to remove any potential total ammonia that may develop in the initial two months.
If there are signs of algae, temporarily reduce lighting levels slightly or add floating plants. Main goal is to get plants growing well enough to out-compete algae.
Do water changes as needed [some soils often require frequent water changes the first two months to remove miscellaneous toxins (e.g., wood oils) released by the soil. Also, new soils invariably release algae-stimulating nutrients (Nitrogen) the first couple months.] After tank is established, water changes can be very infrequent.
You can add aquatic animals same day after set-up, but closely monitor fish health. It may be necessary (though unusual) during this "soil break-in period" to do some water changes to lower tannins. Some people use activated carbon in the filter if you wish to remove any yellow tannin effect (but realise these tannins are a health benefit to the tank animals.
Monitor ammonia/nitrite levels for the first month. If you get any level above zero, act on them - perform a 25% water change! However if you add Prime or AmQuel+ daily for a month, you'll protect the tank occupants against any possible harm from ammonia/nitrite and eliminate this chore.



Thoughts? Bit confusing there isnt it, suggests testing for ammonia etc every day, but then suggests you can add fish the next day after filling... 


opinons?


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## chrisfraser05 (14 Aug 2010)

Hmmmmm.

Can't remember where I was reading it before (maybe the ecology of the planted aquarium book) but they defo advised waiting the two month period before adding the fish.

What you have found above backs up the reasons why with the ammonia and PH swings but as you say it just advises checking and plenty WC's.

If you have the time and can be bothered doing up to 80% wc's a day I'd say its safe to add the fish pretty much straight away. I am planning doing a very similar tank and I'm going to hang off a month or so before the transfer just incase


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## t1gerbee (14 Aug 2010)

450L tank... there is no way i'm doing 80% WC's a day. 

I can wait a month, i'll just get all the plants really established for the next month... 

may do some ammonia monitoring though, see what the tank does.


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