# TC420/421



## Daveslaney

Anyone using the 421 wifi version? There doesnt seem alot of info on these available.Can you program thesse over wifi using your phone or tablet?
The demos ive seen on the 420 mainly show sunrise sunsets,Can you vary the intensity at set times through the day to create a miday blast for example in the middle of the photoperiod?Or does it just ramp up to one set intensity then ramp down at the end?


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## zozo

Yes you can..  TC421 is simply the wifi version of the 420, the program to regulate the lights is identical.. It registers in your network to your router as a network device.
See this for the wifi connection over Android.



Over PC it works the same as the 420, you can create a schedule on the PC and download the package to the device and install it, this time over wifi instead USB. I forgot how many, but you can install more modes (schedules) than you ever need into one package. The wifi conection likely enables you to choose the installed modes or even craete a new one. But via PC with PLED program will be with simpler layout and looks like this.






I'm still using the 420 on 2 aquariums.. And i have non issues to complain about.. Actualy i do not know if iever buy the wifi version. Creating a proper schedule is a one time job, once all is installed it constantly loops the set mode. There is no need to change it.. After playing some time it is fun, but in the end done playing i only have 2 modes in use. One mode for day time with sunrise sunset in simple natural white colored light. And a panic mode where i can choose full 100% at any time if needed.
Wifi connection, fun for controlling a christmas tree, but for an aquarium i don't realy see the need.


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## Daveslaney

Thanks Marcel.Great info.
As this is the first one ill be getting and its only a few quid extra for the wifi one may as well get that,just didnt want it to be more complicated .


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## zozo

Creating the mode files is for a start a bit confusing. But once you get it, it's pretty logical and straight foreward.. To keep in mind is the fade function which is default, for example if you ever want to create moonlight effect and you use for example only 5% power from 11 am till 8 pm and than ramp up higher towards the day. Than you should set 5% at 11 am and 5% at 7.59 pm. Than start the day cycle from that point. Else it ramps up slowly to the set value from 8 pm. Lets say start 8 pm with 50% but you didn't set the 5% end point at 7.59am it will be 25% at 4 am (half way). Most people are a sleep at that time and never notice they made that error.. Bottom line, if you want a steady value from this time to that time you always need to specify an begin and end point set the same value, or else it fades in equal steps per hour up till the next set value. 

As seen in the above pic, the guy who set it up likely never noticed or maybe wants it that way. i dunno.. But he did set 05:00 - 0% and 06:30 - 25% = 12.5% at 05.45 etc. Depending on the sources power could be pretty much for that time of day and a very early start if you keep an 12 hour daylight schedule in mind.


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## Zeus.

zozo said:


> fades in equal steps per hour up till the next set value.



Same on kessil controller. Need clear times and what percentage at which time, then controller does the rest


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## Vandal Gardener

Alright Dave,

I've got the TC421 wifi version and to be honest I don't know if it's how I set it up but the wifi function worked for about a day now it crashes any time I try to sync with the unit from my laptop - I don't have any android devices so might be better/easier using the app.  

It still works hardwired tho and it's a wee bit different from the PLED where you slide the value in the boxes (the writing is murder to read and it took me longer to realise that than it should as the boxes were empty so wasn't obvious to my luddite eye at first) 

I didn't have any kind of controller so am happy to keep this, and again it might be how I've set it up that's causing the problems with sync-ing.

All the best


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## zozo

Vandal Gardener said:


> now it crashes any time I try to sync with the unit from my laptop



What actualy crashes? The laptops connection to the device when you try to sync? So this would mean you see the device in the network but you can't keep the laptop connected tp it? If that is the case and a private laptop, i would give it a try without McAfee installed. 

First try a safe mode option with network connection.. This means boot windows with only it's essential system drivers, default it is without network, but there is a safe boot network option. Boot into that option and Windows starts minimal with only kernel system drivers and network, the rest will stay dissabled.
https://www.howtogeek.com/107511/how-to-boot-into-safe-mode-on-windows-8-the-easy-way/

If you are able to hold connection with this option, than you know there is a non essential likely 3th party driver present and active at normal mode preventing/crashing the connection. Narrows down the search and makes McAfee still the usual suspect to look at..


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## Vandal Gardener

Sorry to be curt, but I actually really appreciate the vibe so will try to anwser precisley instead of slave.  Don't downloan the PLED software because it seemed to work fine before I did, I downloaded PLED because I was so frustrated with not getting the damned thing to work after being proud as punch of my first ever soldering job and ever experience with a LED driver, I can't credit you enough M mate for spreading the kenneth (it's a dialect thing) sorry once the slaver starts I'm off and there it is I'll come back heid in the bin full of shame to answer the morra peas and loaf


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## Daveslaney

Thanks Vandal.
So in your experience you would recommend going with the 420? The wifi on the 421 would be nice to have for the little extra cost but not something i need if it makes the unit a PITA.
Would much rarther have something thats simpler to use.


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## doylecolmdoyle

I run 2x tc420 units and have to agree I dont see much use for the wifi function, only benefit would be "if" you could modify you programs via your phone rather than having to rely on your PC (the pled program doesnt run on mac)
As said previously you set you cycle and then a emergency "always on" mode and probably never touch the programming again


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## Vandal Gardener

Afternoon all,

Ugh head is indeed in the bin today 

To go through my experience with it - the software is like going back a generation on anything electronic - it's cumbersome and its best to go through each stage and save it, having lost changes a couple of times I think I'm a bit ocd about saving then loading (when I tried to do it in one then it malfunctioned giving me an error message saying the device is not recognised (hardwired) so basically I make sure the changes are saved and that the laptop has found the unit then time sync then load the changes which seems to work).

Re the wifi it worked great the first day, then whilst trying to work out the software I downloaded PLED which is when the freezing started but now I can work on the schedule but if I try to sync it via wifi then it just freezes the whole programme, I tried one of the many usb cables in desperation and it worked so have just went from there.

My tuppance is I'd get the TC421 because it might be me, or firmware and I'd imagine as it gets more popular then they'll do something to sort issues and you've got the wifi module ready for when and if it gets fixed and at worst use it as a TC420.

The only thing in retrospect for me was someone (maybe Marcel) mentioned about kitelite developing it so my conscience was pinged a bit that I might be doing a genuine small scale aquarium business out of money by using the knock off however when I went to Kitelite I couldn't find their own version and it's also a cumbersome website to navigate and I ended up caught up going round in a loop.  So gave up.

There's a pattern there for me - if I can suss it in an hour or so I'm a happy boy boy but the world of wifi routers et al is a dark art, god knows how I've got this far so far.

P.s. incase you hadn't gathered I'm going nowhere near the wifi today - will try your suggestions when I'm a little more ahem fresh 

ATB


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## Vandal Gardener

Seeing we're on the subject though,

Would running a solenoid through the TC (whatever number) be the same as setting up the LED's?

e.g. use ohms law to determine how many Watts the solenoid is consuming then upgrade the LED driver to new capacity e.g. 2 x 10 w LEDs + (whatever the solenoid's watts + 20% for good measure) and work from there?  

I am so  impressed with getting rid of timers and the reduction of plugs/sockets needed.  Not to mention I'm finding I'm getting nice colours for viewing when the LEDs are running at about 70% which from my limited reading/understanding will be better for the LEDs as they're driven softer increasing their efficiency,

Right someone please give me coffee!


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## zozo

Vandal Gardener said:


> Would running a solenoid through the TC (whatever number) be the same as setting up the LED's?



That could work on a 12 volt solenoid, with the jump feature selected instead of the fade. That way it can function as a timer if input is DC 12 volt the output is DC 12 volt.
As soon as it starts to fade, iit uses a PWM signal, thats a Pulse on the negative lead.. Wich means it pulses the connection on and off in such a fast frequency that it works the same as dimming. But with the jump function and 100% output it likely just is DC 12 volt at normal frequency you could switch a solenoid on and off.. In theory it should work.. No idea if the solenoid has some build in pcb with extra electronics not liking it. Just a coil creating a magnetic field opening a valve shouldn'be a problem, it is the same principle as running an electro motor. A DC 12 volt motor or centrifugal pump should also run without problems on the TC. Pwm is widely used for motor controling.

For the rest, you need some basic logic binary thinking with programming the darn device.. Once you know it is an Aha!! Yes logic! What you need to keep in mind with the TC is it works with 1 package, in this package you create modes. The device can hold 1 package and the package can contain a load of modes. Now if you have NewPackage01 installed with several modes and you create a NewPackage02 with a new mode and download it to the device, NewPackage01 gets overwritten and you loose the modes in there. Because the device only stores 1 Package. Always save and store the complete created package on the PC as file and add new modes to the excisting package to keep previous modes in the device.

If it sarts nagging about No Device connected, but it is, use the reset button next to the USB port. Or remove the power for half a minute and reboot the device..  It sometimes happens, thats why the reset button is invented..


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## Daveslaney

Ok so i will order the tc421 if the wifi works i can program it over wifi with phone or tablet bonus!. If not i can program hardwired like reg 420?
The power adapter i got with the led is a 6amp unit looking on ebay the 6amp units are rated at 72watt max. The led at 100% is 47w. The solonoid on my co2 reg is 3.9 v.I can run the led on channel 1 then run the co2 solonoid on channel 2 using the original power adaptor that came with the light and get rid of the plug in timer for the co2?


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## zozo

Daveslaney said:


> The solonoid on my co2 reg is 3.9 v



I do not know about a 4 volt solenoid.. Tho if you measure the output wit a DC volt meter the voltage goes down when you dim it..  But PWM its i different for of stepping down voltage than regular step down units.. Likely if you add 12 volt PSU to the TC and dim to 35% the channels output will be around 4 volts.. But i have no clue how a DC 4 volt solenoid will work on that. It might start to buzz and heat up. This you have to measure and trail, i never tried that.

I only know with PWM if you put 12 volt in and you don't dim it puts the original 12 volt out. So theoreticaly a dc 12 volt solenoid should do..

Also if your leds and PSU are DC 12 volt than 72 watt is to much for 1 channel.. It can only have 48 watt per channel on 12 volts.. On dc 24 volts it can have 96 watt per channel.


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## Daveslaney

Thanks marcel.
The psu is 6amp dc 12 volt the led on max intensity is 47 watts.


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## zozo

Yes i'm living in denial, i need goggles..


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## David Hewitt

Hi folks.

I have a tc420 running a Chihiros 60 fine and dandy. 

I have a twinstar 90 on the way for the larger tank. I've established that this is a 5 amp light. 

What are the risks of running through a tc420 given that it has max 4 amp per channel?

Any thoughts would be much appreciated.


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## zozo

Usualy pulling to much Amps overheats and blows a fuse.. As far as i can see there is no fuse to blow, 



 
so there is likely something else going to get hot. At what point it is going to burn out is trail and error.. The risk is, it burns beyond repair..


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## David Hewitt

Thanks Zozo. Would the risk be limited to the tc420 or do you think it could extend to the light and/transformer? 

Also, I'm guessing not having a fuse increases the risk of fire if abused. Not sure if I want to risk a fire, even if there is 200 litres directly above it.

Would limiting the output to, say, 70% make any difference?

I would love to know of any similar alternatives or possible hacks to tc420.


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## zozo

Of you are over powering the controller than components in it are going to overheat, I have no idea how much overpowering it can take to crash instandly it might have a build in thermal protection, i don't know. But you could get away with 5 amps and decrease it's life time and it maybe stops working after a few weeks or months. If it burns it could indeed cause a shortcut having effect on the transformer. Same goes for a transformer, if you over power it it gets hot, but it has a build in thermal protection and switch off when to hot. Some need a reboot to reset the thermal protection others power up again if cooled down enough and causing lights to flicker. Because it heats and cools and heats and cools. These transformers are the ones that can melt down and cause a fire. 

I only have experience with using it within the rated values.. I only can tell it's the connected lights that pull the current, the power supply only gives what it is asked to give. For example you can connect a 250 Watt power supply doesn't make a difference as long as the connected light doesn't consume more than 48 watt you are OK . 

http://www.tc420.net/


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## David Hewitt

Thanks Zozo.

I shall look for another solution.


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## David Hewitt

Hey Zozo. Just a thought. Could you drive the one light from two channels? Obviously both channels would have the same dimming schedule. Sounds too easy so it probably won't work!


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## David Hewitt

Yeah, scratch that. I need to connect the twinstar to a 6 amp driver soldered to the pwm gate of the tc420. Yurgh.


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## zozo

David Hewitt said:


> Yeah, scratch that. I need to connect the twinstar to a 6 amp driver soldered to the pwm gate of the tc420. Yurgh.



That was my guess to, if you look at the pic i posted showing the PCB, you see custom cables soldered to the MOSFET gate pin. That's where the true PWM drive signal comes from i believe it is 0-5 volt and with this you can drive any other driver with PWM pin, e.g a powerfull enough meanwell driver..

Other option is, open up the light and see if it are different units, PCB's with SMD leds connected getting power over one source.. And split them up.. Eihther way, you need to modify the TC or Modify the light. 

Maybe this one can do for you.. I'm mot yet 100% sure but it looks like it might help you out. But then you have to modify the TC.
http://www.electrodragon.com/product/high-power-mosfet-drive-module-pwm-control/


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## David Hewitt

Thanks so much for that reply. I actually had the same sitting it in my Amazon shipping basket. 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01J7H2WCK/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=AONS7HEF348I5&psc=1

A lot pricier but that's the privilege of paying 90 quid a year for Prime. You get humped twice.

Nevertheless, I was sitting on it cos I wasn't sure it was the right thing. You have reassured me I'm on the right lines so I'm going to give it a bash. 

Based on price alone, i'd rather mod the tc420 than the light. 

I'll report back once I have it done.

Thanks again for coming back to me.


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## zozo

David Hewitt said:


> Thanks so much for that reply. I actually had the same sitting it in my Amazon shipping basket.
> 
> https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01J7H2WCK/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?smid=AONS7HEF348I5&psc=1
> 
> A lot pricier but that's the privilege of paying 90 quid a year for Prime. You get humped twice.
> 
> Nevertheless, I was sitting on it cos I wasn't sure it was the right thing. You have reassured me I'm on the right lines so I'm going to give it a bash.
> 
> Based on price alone, i'd rather mod the tc420 than the light.
> 
> I'll report back once I have it done.
> 
> Thanks again for coming back to me.



Lol he spelt his name wrong.. It must to be Dork..  Or he's likely lolling himself thinking his buyers are..


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## David Hewitt

Just to update this for completeness.  I finally got round to modding the TC420 with this mosfet, for use with the Twinstar 900S.

I bought some 6 amp cable from Maplin and a couple of DC jacks (2.5/5mm).  This means that I didn't have to mod the Twinstar cables in any way. 

The power from the Twinstar adapter feeds the mosfet power in.  I then have a jumper cable coming off the mosfet to the TC420 power.  

Soldering the PWM gate on the TC420 to the PWM input on the mosfet was a bit fiddly but ok.  

I then attached the mosfet to the roof of the TC420 case with a 'no more nails' strip and closed it back up. 

It is working perfectly and, unlike some of the cheap dimmers you can buy for Chichoros style lights, there is no buzzing when dimmed.

I am running a full schedule today and will keep any eye out for heat from the TC420, but I do not expect any problems. 

Thanks to zozo for giving me the confidence to try this out!

If anyone else wants to program their Twinstar 900 on the relatively cheap, I'd be happy to answer any questions you have.


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## Zeus.

Just for completeness too 

Wanted to run two Chihiros A-Series Plus off one TC420 so got 10amp PSU



setup two channels and works a treat


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## aquacoen

David Hewitt said:


> Just to update this for completeness.  I finally got round to modding the TC420 with this mosfet, for use with the Twinstar 900S.
> 
> I bought some 6 amp cable from Maplin and a couple of DC jacks (2.5/5mm).  This means that I didn't have to mod the Twinstar cables in any way.
> 
> The power from the Twinstar adapter feeds the mosfet power in.  I then have a jumper cable coming off the mosfet to the TC420 power.
> 
> Soldering the PWM gate on the TC420 to the PWM input on the mosfet was a bit fiddly but ok.
> 
> I then attached the mosfet to the roof of the TC420 case with a 'no more nails' strip and closed it back up.
> 
> It is working perfectly and, unlike some of the cheap dimmers you can buy for Chichoros style lights, there is no buzzing when dimmed.
> 
> I am running a full schedule today and will keep any eye out for heat from the TC420, but I do not expect any problems.
> 
> Thanks to zozo for giving me the confidence to try this out!
> 
> If anyone else wants to program their Twinstar 900 on the relatively cheap, I'd be happy to answer any questions you have.



Hey David,

Thank you very much for the information on dimming your Twinstar 900 series. Today I bought the Twinstar 600sp for my aquarium and came across your solution for dimming your 900(s?) Twinstar.
I'm not very technically minded so I was wondering if your TC420 modification will also work for my 600sp. Some specifications:


LED Source : RGB-W
Colour Temperature : 6500K
Lumens : 3100lm
Power : 45watts
It would be great if you have a picture to show how you modified your TC420. Thanks for your time.


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## David Hewitt

Hello aquacoen

You might be in luck.  From my previous research, I am pretty sure that the Twinstar 600 draw is less than 4 amps.  This means that you should be able to use the TC420 or TC421 (for wireless configuration) without modding it.  

Have a look at the back of the power brick and check the output.


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## David Hewitt

I found this on the Green Aqua site:

LED Source : RGB-W
Color temperature : 6500K
*Operating voltage and current : DC 24V / 2.5A*
Input voltage : AC 110 – 240V, 50/60Hz
Lumens : 3100lm
Input voltage : AC100~240V 50/60Hz
Power consumption : 45W
LED Life Span : 30,000hrs (Subject to the operating environment)
Operating temperature range : 0~35℃
Limited Warranty : 2 year

https://www.greenaqua.hu/en/twinstar-light-600sp-60-cm-led-lampa.html

I think you should be good to go.


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## aquacoen

David Hewitt said:


> I found this on the Green Aqua site:
> 
> LED Source : RGB-W
> Color temperature : 6500K
> *Operating voltage and current : DC 24V / 2.5A*
> Input voltage : AC 110 – 240V, 50/60Hz
> Lumens : 3100lm
> Input voltage : AC100~240V 50/60Hz
> Power consumption : 45W
> LED Life Span : 30,000hrs (Subject to the operating environment)
> Operating temperature range : 0~35℃
> Limited Warranty : 2 year
> 
> https://www.greenaqua.hu/en/twinstar-light-600sp-60-cm-led-lampa.html
> 
> I think you should be good to go.



Thank you very much for your quick answer! That's great news. Excuse my ignorance but I don't understand how I connect the twinstar to the TC420's output. Do I connect it to the 'V+' or on the separated output channels? 
And I assume I have to modify the Twinstar power cable in order to do so?

Good news but I think I need some electronics lessons


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## zozo

Can't find a clear picture of the Twinstar powerset, but the light has a cable with a jack. So no need for cutting cables.. The plug on the power addapter is male the lights has female.. So  find another set of fitting jack plugs with cables or screw connector male and female. The jack plug has a universal +/- (Inner is plus/outer is minus) if it has cables it will be red for positive obviously the other for negative. The jack with screw connectors has +/- markings so you can't miss that.

Connect a female plug for the 24 volt addapter with the positive to the V+ and negative to the V- Input connectors

Connect the male plug to the output connectors with the positive to the V+ and the negative to the Ch1 or any other preferd channel for the light. 

Measure the diameter of the male jack plug and search for DC power plug in MM measured to find the correct one.


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## David Hewitt

I agree with zozo.  The jack size for the Twinstar 900 was 2.5/5mm.  

The retailer Maplin was very helpful for me, and might be for you too if you are in the UK and have one close by.  Ebay would be much cheaper though.


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## aquacoen

Thank you very much for your help. My Twinstar will arrive in two weeks. I will order the TC420 or TC421 today. 
(my wifi connection is not very reliable so maybe I'll just go with the TC420..)
I"ll keep you posted. Thanks again!


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## jazzta

Can you show pictures of cables with colors and channels? And I ordered Twinstar 600S with TC421.


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## doylecolmdoyle

Just a FYI, I got the PLED program working on my mac using the app WINE, really handy to be able to program this controller on OSX.


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## Nigel95

Just got my twinstar 450 e and it works perfect on the tc 420. Had some dc connector (man / female) from my previous light and it works perfect.


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## jazzta

Nigel95 said:


> Just got my twinstar 450 e and it works perfect on the tc 420. Had some dc connector (man / female) from my previous light and it works perfect.
> View attachment 113300
> View attachment 113301



Can you show pictures with cables and who cable(color) who channel is?


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## Nigel95

jazzta said:


> Can you show pictures with cables and who cable(color) who channel is?



It's not hard 

electricity power supply: Red on V+ Black on V- (input)

Twinstar: red on V+ black on channel 1 (output)


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## Kalum

Since there's not a lot of info about the TC421 I thought I'd add a quick post

I set mine up to day with my twinstar 600s and is working well, only issue is it loses the connection between phone and unit now and again and I need to search for it again then works again, once sync'd I'll hardly use it so not a massive issue of it dropping out now and again. It's also a bit of a faff connecting and setting up as the instructions are poor to say the least. 

Good points is that you can set up new modes and alter all time periods and intensities via the app, 4 modes set up and sync'd with the unit and all run perfect


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## jazzta

When I was asking for photos  , I had in mind the cable worlds for all channels red, green, blue. Twinster 600S arrived and dismantled it, and I think I can only set the sunrise and sunset , not every color . Bad news .


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## aquacoen

zozo said:


> Can't find a clear picture of the Twinstar powerset, but the light has a cable with a jack. So no need for cutting cables.. The plug on the power addapter is male the lights has female.. So  find another set of fitting jack plugs with cables or screw connector male and female. The jack plug has a universal +/- (Inner is plus/outer is minus) if it has cables it will be red for positive obviously the other for negative. The jack with screw connectors has +/- markings so you can't miss that.
> 
> Connect a female plug for the 24 volt addapter with the positive to the V+ and negative to the V- Input connectors
> 
> Connect the male plug to the output connectors with the positive to the V+ and the negative to the Ch1 or any other preferd channel for the light.
> 
> Measure the diameter of the male jack plug and search for DC power plug in MM measured to find the correct one.



As promised an update:
Today I installed my Twinstar 600SP in combination with the TC421 and it runs perfectly! Thanks again for your help guys.


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## willsy

David Hewitt said:


> Just to update this for completeness.  I finally got round to modding the TC420 with this mosfet, for use with the Twinstar 900S.
> 
> I bought some 6 amp cable from Maplin and a couple of DC jacks (2.5/5mm).  This means that I didn't have to mod the Twinstar cables in any way.
> 
> The power from the Twinstar adapter feeds the mosfet power in.  I then have a jumper cable coming off the mosfet to the TC420 power.
> 
> Soldering the PWM gate on the TC420 to the PWM input on the mosfet was a bit fiddly but ok.
> 
> I then attached the mosfet to the roof of the TC420 case with a 'no more nails' strip and closed it back up.
> 
> It is working perfectly and, unlike some of the cheap dimmers you can buy for Chichoros style lights, there is no buzzing when dimmed.
> 
> I am running a full schedule today and will keep any eye out for heat from the TC420, but I do not expect any problems.
> 
> Thanks to zozo for giving me the confidence to try this out!
> 
> If anyone else wants to program their Twinstar 900 on the relatively cheap, I'd be happy to answer any questions you have.


Hi David,

I've got a 900s on the way and would love to use the TC421 with it!

Any chance you could knock up a quick diagram on how to do this?

I'm a bit lost with this...

Thank you.

Will


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## David Hewitt

willsy said:


> Hi David,
> 
> I've got a 900s on the way and would love to use the TC421 with it!
> 
> Any chance you could knock up a quick diagram on how to do this?
> 
> I'm a bit lost with this...
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Will



Hi Will

I'll try and upload some photos over the weekend, which will hopefully help.


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## willsy

David Hewitt said:


> Hi Will
> 
> I'll try and upload some photos over the weekend, which will hopefully help.


Thank you so much David. I really appreciate that. 

Will


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## David Hewitt

Hi Will

Apologies, weekend has been too hectic. I'll get you sorted out with photos and notes during the week.

Cheers

David


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## willsy

David Hewitt said:


> Hi Will
> 
> Apologies, weekend has been too hectic. I'll get you sorted out with photos and notes during the week.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> David


Hi David

No worries at all. I know what it's like! 

Whenever you get a spare moment is fine.

Thanks again.

Will


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## David Hewitt

Hi Will

Sorry it has taken me so long to get back to you. 

It is all based round this MOSFET. It is currently unavailable but I reckon this guy is exactly the same.  I used this site for guidance.  The following is how I used both with the Twinstar 900s. 

This first shot is an overview of what the modded device looks like:



 





I have used double sided tape to stick the MOSFET onto the roof of the TC420.

You need to solder a small pin on the board to the J1 PWM input signal on the MOSFET.  Thankfully, this is all the soldering that is required.


 



 

You then want to run some suitable cable (i went for 6 amp electrical cable) from the power in ports on the MOSFET to a female a 2.5mm/5mm jack AND V- and V+ screws on the TC420 (marked GND and VCC on the circuit board).  This is four cables running into two ports. 



 





The blue tape wrapped mess is a female jack that I bastardised.  However, I recommend that you buy a solderless 2.5mm/5mm jack as per the picture zozo added on page 2.

You then want to run some additional cable from the MOSFET power out ports to a male jack.  In the previous picture, you can see the two cables coming out of the bottom port heading off to a green thing in the blurry background - that's the male jack.



 





Once this is done, you just need to connect the Twinstar power pack to the female jack and the Twinstar light to the male jack.  Should work a treat.

I appreciate that this is not the best tutorial in the world and the pictures are pretty bad, but I hope it helps give you a general idea.  Let me know if you have any specific questions.

Cheers

David


----------



## zozo

Hi David.. Nice to see it worked all out for you and functions as predicted.. 

If you or anyone else want to drive other leds that need constant current e.g. 350mA etc. check these out.
http://www.electrodragon.com/product/2pcs-6-30v-led-drive-pt4115-pwm-tuning/

The PCB has 3 sense resistors, Default all 3 in place it's a 1,2 amp high power led setup, but take away the according sense resistor it's constant current output respectively changes. So these are rather universaly applicable and are driven via PWN excactly the same way. This way you can drive any constant current led between 6-35 volt on a TC420..


----------



## willsy

David Hewitt said:


> Hi Will
> 
> Sorry it has taken me so long to get back to you.



Hi David.

Thank you so much, I really appreciate your help.

Doesn't look too bad I think, I will give it a whirl and see how it goes.

Sure it will help some other people too. It's certainly a fabulous upgrade for the lights, so well worth the effort I think!

Thanks again so much for your time on this...

Will


----------



## David Hewitt

Magic Will. It is easy - glad my ramble didn't put you off!


----------



## David Hewitt

zozo said:


> Hi David.. Nice to see it worked all out for you and functions as predicted..
> 
> If you or anyone else want to drive other leds that need constant current e.g. 350mA etc. check these out.
> http://www.electrodragon.com/product/2pcs-6-30v-led-drive-pt4115-pwm-tuning/
> 
> The PCB has 3 sense resistors, Default all 3 in place it's a 1,2 amp high power led setup, but take away the according sense resistor it's constant current output respectively changes. So these are rather universaly applicable and are driven via PWN excactly the same way. This way you can drive any constant current led between 6-35 volt on a TC420..



Bargain!


----------



## Djoko Sauza

Hey everyone,
Apologies for noobness in advance. I'm looking for a way to create a daily light cycle, is this achievable with TC420?
If yes, would it work with my light? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B075D9N56X/ref=twister_B075D9V752?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
How easy is it to set it up? 
Thank you!


----------



## doylecolmdoyle

Diogo Sousa said:


> Hey everyone,
> Apologies for noobness in advance. I'm looking for a way to create a daily light cycle, is this achievable with TC420?
> If yes, would it work with my light? https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B075D9N56X/ref=twister_B075D9V752?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
> How easy is it to set it up?
> Thank you!



Yes a TC420/21 can be used to create a 24hr light cycle. Unsure if it will work with that light. Looks like you will need to cut the cord of that light to connect the tc420


----------



## Djoko Sauza

doylecolmdoyle said:


> Yes a TC420/21 can be used to create a 24hr light cycle. Unsure if it will work with that light. Looks like you will need to cut the cord of that light to connect the tc420


Wouldn't you need to cut the cord on most lights anyway? Unless they have some kind of transformer?


----------



## doylecolmdoyle

Diogo Sousa said:


> Wouldn't you need to cut the cord on most lights anyway? Unless they have some kind of transformer?



Some lights (chihiros maybe others) have a line dimmer which can be removed so you just hook the TC420 in where the basic dimmer would normally go. I found a photo of the light you linked to on Amazon and it has the rotary dimmer hardwired into the power cord.

This is the basic dimmer chihiros use which can be removed


----------



## Djoko Sauza

Hi everyone. I tried to connect the TC420 to my lights ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B075D9N56X/ref=twister_B075D9V752?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 ), and it didn't work.
In all instances the TC worked but the light wouldn't turn on. 

I tried using a 6v charger at first from the wall to the TC, then a speaker transformer with 16v and lastly I just connected a power supply cable to the TC and apparently this "fried" the Input slots, which means I can't get it powered on anymore. However, when connected through USB it comes on just fine.

Is it completely useless now? Anyone know if the other "Power" inlet is still working?

Thanks in advance


----------



## scubalove

David, I'm going to get the 900EA, I wonder if the installation with tc420 will be like yours? The MOSFET you got is currently out of stock on Amazon and I can't find it anywhere else than ebay ( 2 months for shipping from china ). Can you recommend something else instead? Thanks a lot.


----------



## rebel

Does the TC421 have auto time adjustment? For example for day light savings? Does it copy time over wifi automatically?


----------



## zozo

rebel said:


> Does the TC421 have auto time adjustment? For example for day light savings? Does it copy time over wifi automatically?


According the manufacturers information likely not.
http://www.worlduniqueen.com/support_list.aspx?id=192&type=1

But since it is on your mobile via wifi, it should be possible to timesync on the fly..


----------



## Andrew Butler

scubalove said:


> David, I'm going to get the 900EA, I wonder if the installation with tc420 will be like yours? The MOSFET you got is currently out of stock on Amazon and I can't find it anywhere else than ebay ( 2 months for shipping from china ). Can you recommend something else instead? Thanks a lot.


Check out the link below; not yet tried it but should be more simple to use - just need to check the size of your connections but THINK the Twinstar E have the same size connector as the Chihiros
http://www.hinterfeld.com/hinterfeld-programable-smart-controller-for-led-fan-dc-pump/


----------



## Djoko Sauza

How would I connect a power supply to the TC? 
How many volts do I need, 12v? How many amps? Which connection, female jack? Would I need a constant current driver? I can't find this anywhere so any help would be great. Thanks!


----------



## zozo

The TC has a standerd power supp jack plug for main power or via the input V+/V- screw connectors. So you can connect a power supply without a plug on it.
Depending on the LEDs you drive it needs DC 12 volt or DC 24 Volt input.. Mater a fact at 100% it puts the voltage out you put in, so this means anything between DC 12 and 24 volt will run this device. I did run DC 20 volt leds on it with DC 20 volt input. Just do not exceed over 24 volt.

It can run 4 amps per channel.. This makes Volt x Amp = Watt = 12 volt x 4 Amp = 48 Watt at DC 12 volt and 24 Volt x 4 Amp = 96 Watt on DC 24 volt per channel.

Thus 1 channel can handle 48 watt at DC 12 Volt x 5 = 240 watt total.. If you make sure you have a 250 watt PSU you can use the TC at full power any time even if you plan to ask less from it. The constant voltage power supply consumes what you take.

Obviously for DC 24 volt it's total capacity is 96 watt X 5  etc.


----------



## Djoko Sauza

zozo said:


> The TC has a standerd power supp jack plug for main power or via the input V+/V- screw connectors. So you can connect a power supply without a plug on it.
> Depending on the LEDs you drive it needs DC 12 volt or DC 24 Volt input.. Mater a fact at 100% it puts the voltage out you put in, so this means anything between DC 12 and 24 volt will run this device. I did run DC 20 volt leds on it with DC 20 volt input. Just do not exceed over 24 volt.
> 
> It can run 4 amps per channel.. This makes Volt x Amp = Watt = 12 volt x 4 Amp = 48 Watt at DC 12 volt and 24 Volt x 4 Amp = 96 Watt on DC 24 volt per channel.
> 
> Thus 1 channel can handle 48 watt at DC 12 Volt x 5 = 240 watt total.. If you make sure you have a 250 watt PSU you can use the TC at full power any time even if you plan to ask less from it. The constant voltage power supply consumes what you take.
> 
> Obviously for DC 24 volt it's total capacity is 96 watt X 5  etc.


Thanks! I have a 12v light. So I should be running a 12v dc power supply into the TC. And then + and - wires straight into the light, is that correct?

I tried this ^ with a 6v and 16v (didnt try 12v yet cause dont have any) and neither worked, might it be that my light is just not compatible?
Thank you!


----------



## zozo

On the TC output side you have 1 V+ screw connector.. And 5 Ch connectors.. The Ch1 to 5 are the lights Negative wire.. So if you have 5 lights, you need to connect all 5 positive wires the the TC V+ output. And for each light a negative wire to the CH output. 

LED 1 = positive to output V+ and negative to CH1
LED 2 = positive to output V+ and negative to Ch2
and so on for all 5..


----------



## Djoko Sauza

Yeah that is what I did. Is there a possibility that the light didnt work because it uses 12v and I only tried 6v and 16v? Or is there a chance the light is just not compatible?

From stock it has a regular uk 3 pin plug (says 250v on it) and an inline rotating dimmer. Link: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B075D9N56X/ref=twister_B075D9V752?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks!


----------



## zozo

Diogo Sousa said:


> Or is there a chance the light is just not compatible?



Likely..


----------



## scubalove

Andrew Butler said:


> Check out the link below; not yet tried it but should be more simple to use - just need to check the size of your connections but THINK the Twinstar E have the same size connector as the Chihiros
> http://www.hinterfeld.com/hinterfeld-programable-smart-controller-for-led-fan-dc-pump/



Thanks Andrew, I might get one of those, it looks easier to install than TCs


----------



## Andrew Butler

scubalove said:


> it looks easier to install than TCs


I can confirm it fits straight onto a Twinstar E as I have tried it which is what I think you're getting, I've got a bit of work to do to make it fit my Twinstar S but that's only swapping the jack plugs over as they are a different size.
The on/off function works too but that's as far as I got before leaving for holiday.


----------



## Zeus.

Andrew Butler said:


> but that's as far as I got before leaving for holiday.



Don't like fitting new gear just before holidays just in case


----------



## scubalove

Andrew Butler said:


> I can confirm it fits straight onto a Twinstar E as I have tried it which is what I think you're getting, I've got a bit of work to do to make it fit my Twinstar S but that's only swapping the jack plugs over as they are a different size.
> The on/off function works too but that's as far as I got before leaving for holiday.



Wow that’s great news for me since I’ve never tried wiring anything my whole life. I’m gonna order it right now. Thanks Andrew, enjoy your holiday.


----------



## Paulus

Bought the TC420 yesterday. 2 of my 4 T5 lights where broken so i thought, its time to build in some LED 
Ordered 1 white and 1 RGB led strip and can't wait to play with this new setup and build the LED into my current lighting system.

Found some modes *here* so i can test it (once the LED strips are delivered) 

Once it all works i can modify the second lighting on the tank. But i think i will choose the white + warm white strips for this one.

But first i need to test if it all works. Lateron maybe i can play with the raspberry pi and see if i can add some extra's to it.

hmmmm can't open the modes i found. Unknow error in Pled


----------



## zozo

Paulus said:


> hmmmm can't open the modes i found. Unknow error in Pled



Which mode(s) did you download? I tried a random one "Brazil Sun" and it opens correctly..


----------



## Paulus

zozo said:


> Which mode(s) did you download? I tried a random one "Brazil Sun" and it opens correctly..



I think its working now  Still need to wait for the LEDS to see how it looks 
Any modes you are using or can share?


----------



## zozo

I no longer use RGB because it adds no other value than playing with ambient aesthetics.. It was fun for a short time, but to sacriffise 3 channels on it, it wasn't fun enough for that. Going with 5 channels white light only gives me more options and with using 3 different white colors (warm, natural and cool white) also have a enough color rendition to play with. Next to that, the smd rgb led strips are rather low in intensity and poor in quality they burn out relatively soon (it's 3 chips in one tiny surface per led after all they get warmer, it lowers the durability).. All this added, it doesn't realy add value to growing plants. That's my personal take on it.


----------



## HiNtZ

There's a TC421?!?!?!?!??!? Why did I not know this!!!

I've been running a TC420 for years with 10M 5050SMD RGB/W strips and it's the best thing I've done for my aquariums.

I really wanted to run 4 x 10w RGB COB leds with the TC420 but am by no means electrically minded. I heard of people using LDD drivers taking a 5v signal off the transistor of the TC420 to control the drivers.

Glad I found this thread!

For the benefit of the record, I found that if you create a file after opening PLED without administrator privilages, when you save the file then go to open it again.... it will be empty.

As a rule, I ALWAYS create files after opening the program as admin. Not sure what the problem is but that's a workaround I found that might help the people who seem not to be able to open files properly.


----------



## zozo

HiNtZ said:


> I found that if you create a file after opening PLED without administrator privilages, when you save the file then go to open it again.... it will be empty.



That's probably because the default safe location for pled is program files folder (Install location). Than if you are not admin you do not have rights to safe in that folder. Try change the safe location to My Documents..  That'll do it i think. 

Or reinstall the program and change the install locatation to C:\ or to my documents. Tha you run it from a location you have rights in.


----------



## doylecolmdoyle

I created a post awhile ago outline how to run pled on osx / mac, here is the guide for any here wanting to program the lights on a mac

https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/how-to-use-pled-tc420-on-osx-mac.52436/


----------



## Paulus

Short update:

I received the first part of the LED strips (forgot 2 cables to connect them to the controller (woops ) 

Because 1 T5 bulb broke down and 1 needs a change very soon (black ends) it was time to switch from T5 to LED.

The pros of my current lighting hardware was the simple setup. It's very easy to remove the T5 hardware so i can place the LED inside it. (woohoo). So i removed the cables, T5 brackets and the reflector. I noticed on the side panel there was a small plastic cover which i could pop out for the new cables and no drilling was needed (woohoo part 2)

Placed the new LED in to see how it looks and where i should place them, more in the middle or more on the outside. Nothing is glued yet cause i want to test the lights first when i receive the cables tomorrow and can hook it up to the TC420 controller. 

Current LED strips:
- Bright white
- RGB

I want to see how clear the white is so i can do the same thing with my second lighting above the tank.
This way i can see if i need to mount 2x bright white or 1x bright and 1 warm white.

Photos of the current status:


 Paulus_NL


 Paulus_NL


----------



## HiNtZ

Paulus said:


> Short update:



I'm sure it'll look a damn sight better than mine!!




 

One thing I'd have advised against is getting the strips with waterproof coating - the stuff goes yellow after a bit of use and heat getting to it. You can see on the right what I couldn't pick off - how yellow it is making the whites look. 

I've got a program you can have for sunrise/sunset - you'll have to tweak between midday-6pm as mine shuts down when the high powered LEDs take over.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=19MS1R0iTghz7gBD_JMZd5Bv3MijnJhJn

Let me know.


----------



## Sick1166

Nigel95 said:


> Just got my twinstar 450 e and it works perfect on the tc 420. Had some dc connector (man / female) from my previous light and it works perfect.
> View attachment 113300
> View attachment 113301





So this is all I would need for a twinstar s 600 
Thanks for any help


----------



## zozo

I've ordered the TC421 for somebody else, still waiting to recieve it. I have a question for a TC421 WIFI user.. 

Now i was wondering how the WIFI App controll actualy works (better than the TC420?). For example if i program the controller with my personal phone app. Where do the mode files get stored? Are they saved on the phone or as accesible file in the device?

Meaning if i switch to another phone, do i need to start over from scratch, reset the controller deleting all contents and make new schedule? Or are the installed modes accessible with any phone connected?

The TC420 stores the mode files on the PC, than if i connect different PC i need to transfer the files over.. Can't access the files stored in the device. Which i actualy find a minor software flaw in the TC420.. Is this by any chance changed/improved in the TC421 WIFI version?


----------



## aquacoen

I don't know if the modes that are stored in the TC421 can be accessed later on..

I use my pc to connect with the TC421 by wifi. All modes I made so far are stored on my pc.
Sadly I still have problems uploading multiple modes. Uploading more than three modes results in a 'failed' message..

Make sure you download the latest PLED software (2018-12-04): V2.2

(I actually never tried updating the firmware.. tips anyone?)


----------



## zozo

Ok thank you Coen, i guess it's still the same then.. I bought the TC421 for my little spoiled princess that hates to come out of bed to control the lights when she sufers terrible headages while chatting with girlfriends. Than the WIFI version needs to come to the resque, i hope.. But than i have to re program it with here phone.. Than programming it first via PC or my phone is not an option.  I was just curious about it.



aquacoen said:


> (I actually never tried updating the firmware.. tips anyone?)



The eprom in the device is also not accessible via USB and a PC. There once was a flaw in an earlier version of the TC420. The manufacturer made a llittle Nuvoton device to flash the eprom with new firmware. It was temporary available on ebay and Aliexpress to repair affected devices. But no longer available as far is i know i guess by now they think the problem is solved, sold out and never restocked. The article about it is also deleted from the suport site. It was about the Null Mode Error Fix.
http://www.tc420.net/null-fix.php

What you could try is contact the manufacturer and ask what to do. The still might be able to provide with that Nuvoton flasher. They have a life chat option for support.. 
http://www.worlduniqueen.com/support.aspx?typeid=15


----------



## Kalum

As mentioned the programmed modes are stored on the phone and you have to 'upload' to the device via WiFi where its then stored on the TC421

Nothing is live and its all all down to that upload, saying that it works great and app is really easy to use (even if a bit time consuming to set up the % at the start for a full programme)


----------



## zozo

Kalum said:


> As mentioned the programmed modes are stored on the phone and you have to 'upload' to the device via WiFi where its then stored on the TC421
> 
> Nothing is live and its all all down to that upload, saying that it works great and app is really easy to use (even if a bit time consuming to set up the % at the start for a full programme)



I see if i can figur out a way to transfer mode files from phone to phone.. Should be possible with swapping sd cards to copy them..  Or another file transfer option..


----------



## Kalum

Yeh very true, on android it should be easy to access all the working files and just transfer them from phone to phone, hopefully the app is stable enough to pick up the new mode files...


----------



## zozo

Only need to figure out where they are stored.. Yet didn't find any Smart Timer App folders after the install.. But since i yet do not have the controller there is non to make.. Have to wait and see. As far as i know it are *.lmf files once created.. In windows they are stored in a sneaky hidden place in profile\roaming\appdate etc. took me a while to find them.


----------



## zozo

Now i have installed the TC421 to the wifi network.. And all seems to work fine connection whise..

But now i have 4 modes created via the phone app.. Mode.1 to Mode.4.. Dowloaded all to the device with succes and now the device plays by default Mode.1

But i seem not to be able to switch mode to play with the phone app.. Thus does this mean i still have to go physicaly to the device and sellect witch mode to play with the devices menu and mode setting?  Only seem to be able to fast play a created mode that's it.

Or am i missing something here?


----------



## Kalum

zozo said:


> Now i have installed the TC421 to the wifi network.. And all seems to work fine connection whise..
> 
> But now i have 4 modes created via the phone app.. Mode.1 to Mode.4.. Dowloaded all to the device with succes and now the device plays by default Mode.1
> 
> But i seem not to be able to switch mode to play with the phone app.. Thus does this mean i still have to go physicaly to the device and sellect witch mode to play with the devices menu and mode setting?  Only seem to be able to fast play a created mode that's it.
> 
> Or am i missing something here?



Yeh that's what I've found as well, the app is literally just a creation and upload tool and once it's on the TC421 then it need to be switched between modes from there, mildly inconvenient but I only tend to switch modes when doing maintenance so I'm at the tank anyway so it's not a big deal for me


----------



## zozo

Kalum said:


> Yeh that's what I've found as well, the app is literally just a creation and upload tool and once it's on the TC421 then it need to be switched between modes from there, mildly inconvenient but I only tend to switch modes when doing maintenance so I'm at the tank anyway so it's not a big deal for me



I thought so.. That's rather disapointing discovery..   Not that it is inconvenient for me personaly i only have 2 modes installed on my tc420 and 1 is only a panic functionality if i need full lights any time. 

I bought this TC421 for somebody else with the idea it would control it completely remotely.

Kinda makes that Phone app barely worth it's purpose. Can't even store the files in the app, once the mode is deleted it is gone for ever and we need to start from scratch again. Thus the only way to remotely switch modes is via a notebook joint to the TC network. Than store 1 mode in its own package.. Than clear the device from installed mode. And dowload the required package and mode again to the device.  Or the App needs to be rewriten with a file storage function. 

What a cr@py half work design.. Still have to run around to get it done.


----------



## rebel

Just to be clear, you can only run ONE mode at a time with NO option to change it via wifi? That seems to be a major design flaw. Can anyone who speaks Mandarin ask them? Perhaps they will patch that.


----------



## zozo

rebel said:


> Just to be clear, you can only run ONE mode at a time with NO option to change it via wifi? That seems to be a major design flaw. Can anyone who speaks Mandarin ask them? Perhaps they will patch that.



Yup that is correct, if you upload more than 1 mode, you have to walk to the device and set the mode manualy.  Something i expected to be mentioned in the manual, than you know what you are buying. It's rather a misleading commercial flaw hushed.

I lately builded a light for somebody as a hanging fixture with the tank in the bed room. And not to have a multi core cable hanging down to the controler at the wall, i decided to fix the controler on top of the light itself. With the idea it wifi controlled anyway.

Thus this means each time she wants to change mode, she has to lower the light and change it manualy. 

Or just upload 1 single mode and change that back and forth all the time.

Other option is use a wireless notebook or notepad and the pled software installed. The notepad can be connected the same way via wifi to the TC.
Than with the pled software you can safe the mode files. Than clear the device from the current file and upload a new one. This is not possible with the phone app.


----------



## Kalum

Yes one mode at a time, why would you want or need to run more than one mode at any one time?

You can run up to 4 devices on various timing from that one mode but obviously only 1 mode per channel/device

Personally I don't see it being an issue as most of what it's used for will only require a change in mode every now and again and it's when I'm standing working on the aquarium anyway and it's 2 clicks of a button to change, obviously others might use it differently


----------



## zozo

Kalum said:


> Yes one mode at a time, why would you want or need to run more than one mode at any one time?



I personaly don't, i do not even have personal use for the wifi version.. 

But in this case i builded a setup for someone in her bedroom.. Also something i would not want personaly.. Anyway, she says when i suffer from my famous headage i dislike the brightness of the lights.. Thus i thought WIFI to the resque control it remotely.. Now since the manual isn't complete, it says nothing about how to set modes. I jumped to the assumption it is remotely controllable.. And its rather not..

Also my fault obviously, assuming things that are not there and put the controller out of reach on the light itself hanging several feet high to the cieling.

Than she has to get out of bed and lower the light and push some buttons.

Or i have to rebuild the light again take off the controller and hang it to the wall at a spot easier to reach or something.


----------



## Kalum

Yeh that's fair enough zozo, the instructions and manuals aren't worth the paper they are written on as well which doesn't help

It would be a nice feature to have don't get me wrong


----------



## zozo

Yeah...  I just feel a little bit scammed by the Chinese mafia, presenting me with WIFI honey and holding back crusial information. The whole WIFI and phone app feature they upgraded it with is uther useless only half working gadget. 

The TC421 didn't live up to my expectations.. Thought more of it..


----------



## rebel

Hey @zozo , I use one of these to control my garden lights. It's been outside in -8C to 40C temps without missing a beat.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tomshin...=item23a7f01dd2:g:JnMAAOSwpI9bdOES:rk:32:pf:0

Might be good for your application. Can control the program from anywhere in the world. The app is also really good.


----------



## zozo

rebel said:


> Hey @zozo , I use one of these to control my garden lights. It's been outside in -8C to 40C temps without missing a beat.
> https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tomshin...=item23a7f01dd2:g:JnMAAOSwpI9bdOES:rk:32:pf:0
> 
> Might be good for your application. Can control the program from anywhere in the world. The app is also really good.



That looks indeed as a nice little device, for that price..  Thanks for sharing.... 

Does it also come with a sunrise/sunset dim feature in its timer?


----------



## Zeus.

zozo said:


> That looks indeed as a nice little device, for that price..  Thanks for sharing....
> 
> Does it also come with a sunrise/sunset dim feature in its timer?



Looks good 

Output current: 4A * 3 CH - suggests it can handle 4amps per channel, or is that total amps


----------



## rebel

zozo said:


> Does it also come with a sunrise/sunset dim feature in its timer?


Unfortunately not. The code would be so simple to implement but these are not designed for aquariums. More for dance parties where RGB lights are synced to the music.....

Mine can only handle about 6 time points for dimming also but that doesn't matter too much to me, for garden lights.

But it does have very simple on-off functionality and timer for your purpose.

There are many versions of this box available on the interwebs with various connectors.


----------



## Hanuman

Has anyone used the TC420/TC421 with a Chihiros, specifically the WRGB 90?


----------



## zozo

Hanuman said:


> Has anyone used the TC420/TC421 with a Chihiros, specifically the WRGB 90?



I'm not sure, according to this seller the rgb 90 and rgb 120 cannot be dimmed. (But it says "manualy", what ever that means.)

https://www.aquasabi.com/Chihiros-LED-System-Series-RGB

The TC420/21 is a Puls Width Modulation (PWM) dimmer requires a constant voltage between 12 and 24 DC at max 4 amp per channel.

What could be of help to get to the bottom of it is look what the power supply says. Does it for example say DCV 12 or 24 at 70 watt. Than it is a Constant Voltage setup. And the answer should be Yes..

Does it say for example output 30 volt and X Milli-Amp something like 700mA or 1000mA. Than it is a Constant Current setup and the answer is No. At least not with the TC420 directly.. 

Constant Current leds require a Dimmable Driver with an equal voltage and milli amp output.

https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/opinions-on-chihiros-rgb-please.51646/


----------



## Hanuman

Well the WRGB 90 can me hooked up to the Commander 4 which makes the light dimmable so not sure why that seller says that.
In any case I will look at the power supply. Will report back.


----------



## zozo

Well could be as stated in the given link from the previous ukaps discussion about it. That the standerd RGB serie dimmer isn't up to the 70 watt +.

If it is 12 volt, mind the TC has a max 4 amp load per channel. 12 x 4 = 48 watt.. Makes it a no go for 1 channel only at 70 watt.

Is it 24 volt makes it 24 x 4 = 96 watt, than its ok..

Anyway, the todays standard of dimming LED on constant voltage is PWM dimming. Looks like the commander 4 is hooked up behind the PSU splitting it up into 4 channels. Specs are not given but it likely is a pwm device.

Dimmable driver, actualy is a constant current PSU that have a seperate 0/10 volt dim port or a 5 volt PWM dim port.

The actual PWM signal ranges between 0 and 5 volt at different frequencies. To make it dim a constant voltage led it needs a bit more electronics.

For future references you could by a simple PWM motor controller with a potentiometer.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3V-35V-12V...=item4b1bff08d6:g:VfYAAOSw7GRZKUR2:rk:12:pf:0

If you hook this between the light and the original PSU and turn the knob and it dims, than you are good to go with any PWM dim device taking the wattage. If the leds do nothing or start to flicker it is no good. But as said if the Driver/PSU specifies mA output it most likely is constant current and not directly dimmable over the power line.


----------



## Hanuman

Thanks. All that is pretty technical for me ahaha

Here are the power supply specs:


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## Eloed

Hi All! I bought a tc 421 and I want to use it with 3w power leds, with an 42VDC constant current witch drives 5 LDD-700H! Each channel has an LDD driver! I pached the MOSFET legs but if I do a measureing on the patched cable the voltage is mutch over 5V! How can I drive the LDD-700s with the tc421?!?!


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## zozo

Eloed said:


> How can I drive the LDD-700s with the tc421?!?!



The driver should have a PWM dim port..






Eloed said:


> but if I do a measureing on the patched cable the voltage is mutch over 5V!



I actualy have no idea, afaik from the TC420 it should be a 5 volt PWM signal.. Maybe they changed something in the TC421. Check the PWM port specs from the driver. PWM signal can be higher and than the specs should say something like "Signal Input Range 3,3 ~ 20 Volt"..

If the driver isn't dimmable you need an extra device. Something like this but than rated for 42 VDC input instead.


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## zozo

Hanuman said:


> Thanks. All that is pretty technical for me ahaha
> 
> Here are the power supply specs:
> View attachment 120611



That's a constant voltage power sup. 

But as said above at VDC 24 than 1 channel from the TC can only take 4Amp - 96 watt.. If you only can connect the light  to 1 channel and the light consumes more than 96 Watt you'll likely burn the TC. 

Than the TC is not for your light without modifying it..


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## Hanuman

zozo said:


> That's a constant voltage power sup.
> 
> But as said above at VDC 24 than 1 channel from the TC can only take 4Amp - 96 watt.. If you only can connect the light  to 1 channel and the light consumes more than 96 Watt you'll likely burn the TC.
> 
> Than the TC is not for your light without modifying it..



Thanks. Modifying it as you have detailed here ?


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## Hanuman

By the way I also came across a new model of the TC. It's the TC423 (high voltage):


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## zozo

Hanuman said:


> Thanks. Modifying it as you have detailed here ?



Yes like that and connect a dimmer with PWM port that can handle the lights power consumption



Hanuman said:


> By the way I also came across a new model of the TC. It's the TC423 (high voltage):


Yes  I've seen it, it's interesting indeed, few years ago i was searching for something like this to auto dim 220VAC Metal Halides spots. Thus i ditched the spots because it didn't excist. Now it does, but i do not need it anymore.


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## Eloed

zozo said:


> The driver should have a PWM dim port..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actualy have no idea, afaik from the TC420 it should be a 5 volt PWM signal.. Maybe they changed something in the TC421. Check the PWM port specs from the driver. PWM signal can be higher and than the specs should say something like "Signal Input Range 3,3 ~ 20 Volt"..
> 
> If the driver isn't dimmable you need an extra device. Something like this but than rated for 42 VDC input instead.


I have the upgraded TC421, it seens not the same


zozo said:


> The driver should have a PWM dim port..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actualy have no idea, afaik from the TC420 it should be a 5 volt PWM signal.. Maybe they changed something in the TC421. Check the PWM port specs from the driver. PWM signal can be higher and than the specs should say something like "Signal Input Range 3,3 ~ 20 Volt"..
> 
> If the driver isn't dimmable you need an extra device. Something like this but than rated for 42 VDC input instead.


Hi Zozo!

The driver have a dim port! But if I connect the patched mosfet port with the driver dim port, it’s do nothing! I think the new tc421 is not the same as the old...
Upper the new one, under the old! The mosfets are the same but i cant find the pwm modul... The voltage on the mosfet gate can be the same as the currant has... “24V”... It’s not good...


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## zozo

The PWM module should be bellow the WIFI module, as can be seen in bellow picture that is shot from an angle.




But what is different in the circuit i have no idea.. Unfortunately i'm not equiped to find it out myself.. Not with the documentation and not with the proper tools. That actualy makes me a Script Kidie or Copycat only understanding the basics for now.. I have to wait till someone figurs it out and takes the time to explain. I guess it wont be long till some electronic wizard does want to connect high power leds to the tc421. Till now i didn't find any documentation about it. I got the above picture from a local Circuits online Forum.. Even there yet nobody got the idea to modify the TC421.

Maybe contacting
http://www.tc420.net/connecting-high-power-LEDs-to-the-TC420.php
Might be of help.


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## aquatoid

Hello, this threads seems like a cornucopia of knowledge for a LED DIY project, however there is one question on my mind I didn't see answered so far. 

How much power can be supplied through the DC jack on a TC420/421? I'm getting a TC421 myself, but one might assume (I know the dangers) that they are similar in this respect. On all the websites I've found detailing information about the device same images and phrases are used: 
 "③POWER：It is DC plug, when the load power is small, can choose this port to input voltage."

But what counts as a small load? I.e. how many Amperes can be safely drawn through this DC port. I will be using 12V LED strips, not that it should matter for the input.

I'm still considering my options when it comes to AC/DC converters, and the one I have a liking for is a 156W one with a DC plug. And I'd hate to void the warranty right out of the gate.

So help is much appreciated!


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## zozo

aquatoid said:


> Hello, this threads seems like a cornucopia of knowledge for a LED DIY project, however there is one question on my mind I didn't see answered so far.
> 
> How much power can be supplied through the DC jack on a TC420/421? I'm getting a TC421 myself, but one might assume (I know the dangers) that they are similar in this respect. On all the websites I've found detailing information about the device same images and phrases are used:
> "③POWER：It is DC plug, when the load power is small, can choose this port to input voltage."
> 
> But what counts as a small load? I.e. how many Amperes can be safely drawn through this DC port. I will be using 12V LED strips, not that it should matter for the input.
> 
> I'm still considering my options when it comes to AC/DC converters, and the one I have a liking for is a 156W one with a DC plug. And I'd hate to void the warranty right out of the gate.
> 
> So help is much appreciated!



Yes the qeustion is answered several times..  The power load is 4 amp per channel, regardless which input connector you use, the jackplug or the screw connectors.

To get to the initial power in Watts per channel than multiply Voltage with Amp
in case DC 12 volt it's 12 x 4 Amp = 48 Watt..
In case DC 24 volt it's 24 x 4 Amp = 96 Watt.

That is per channel, thus x 5 is total load of the device.




aquatoid said:


> "③POWER：It is DC plug, when the load power is small, can choose this port to input voltage.



Yet not have seen this description do you have a link?


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## aquatoid

zozo said:


> Yes the qeustion is answered several times..  The power load is 4 amp per channel, regardless which input connector you use, the jackplug or the screw connectors.
> 
> To get to the initial power in Watts per channel than multiply Voltage with Amp
> in case DC 12 volt it's 12 x 4 Amp = 48 Watt..
> In case DC 24 volt it's 24 x 4 Amp = 96 Watt.
> 
> That is per channel, thus x 5 is total load of the device.



I know that, but I am concerned with the DC jack input, max output for the device is indeed 20 Amps, but on the descriptions the DC input jack is "rated" for "small loads".



zozo said:


> Yet not have seen this description do you have a link?



It is a shop link, and I am not here to promote or advertise. Is it OK if I post it anyway as a reference? I can post the image I mean and post the description below if that is enough.



 
①RESET：For the reset key, when the controller is dead, it can touch the key to the reposition, only for the chip reset, not the initialization reset.

②USB：It is USB signal joint entrance, when epistatic machine model after editing, can through the USB line to download to the controller.

③POWER：It is DC plug, when the load power is small, can choose this port to input voltage.


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## Michael Cosgrove

aquatoid said:


> Is it OK if I post it anyway as a reference?



Hi @aquatoid, yes you are ok to provide the link. Marcel (@zozo) has asked for it and it is unlikely to conflict with forum rules. If the mods disagree, they'll delete the post. 

Regards

Michael


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## aquatoid

Michael Cosgrove said:


> Hi @aquatoid, yes you are ok to provide the link. Marcel (@zozo) has asked for it and it is unlikely to conflict with forum rules. If the mods disagree, they'll delete the post.
> 
> Regards
> 
> Michael



Fair enough, here goes then, two examples in fact:
https://www.jooksy.com/products/tc4...widely-used-in-aquariums-fish-tank-plant-grow
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/TC4...636.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4d2VsxFc

As I'm no electrician I have no idea how these Volt and Amp ratings are defined. As a layman (with some ancient physics background) I'd assume the problem would be heat. So connecting a cable with larger conductor to a cable with smaller conductor could either a) cause smoke and flames or b) throttle the current to the lower standard. 

I've been looking into all sorts of plugs and jacks lately, and there are all kinds of combinations possible. As I earlier mentioned the AC/DC converter I'm looking at is rated 13 A @ 12 V, yet I have not been able to find a jack that is rated high enough for current. There are jacks with 36 V rating and higher Amp ratings than 12 V jacks. Could I plug 13 A @ 12 V plug into a X A @ 36 V jack as long as the wattage is the same, as in

13 A * 12 V = 156 W = X A * 36 V
=> X A = 156 W / 36 V = 4,5 A (rounded up)

All I want is not to burn my home. This project has taught me quite a bit about wires and AWG stuff, but there is still so much to learn...


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## zozo

As far as i know you can use both power inputs for total load as long as the PSU is up to the task.. Never did read it anywhere before that it should be different. Tho must say it's only theoretical, personaly i never used the DC jack input, always connected via the screw connectors for convenience and to have a more secured connection. A dc plug can be pulled out by mistake wihtout notice..

Personaly i rather like to connect the TC like this.





Anyway i can imagine your worries and it is rather strange they describe only small load without providing real numbers.

if you want to get to the bottom of the story than contact

http://www.worlduniqueen.com/support.aspx?typeid=15

They are the original TC420/21/23 developers they definitively know the correct answer.


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## aquatoid

I'll ask them for sure, thank you for linking that website.

One thing about those screw connectors worries me too. They look like a perfect way to fry yourself or your cat. How dangerous is operating this device?  At least I see no way they would not have a voltage on them. Seems I have more questions to ask the devs.


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## zozo

aquatoid said:


> I'll ask them for sure, thank you for linking that website.
> 
> One thing about those screw connectors worries me too. They look like a perfect way to fry yourself or your cat. How dangerous is operating this device?  At least I see no way they would not have a voltage on them. Seems I have more questions to ask the devs.



At 12 volts there aint much to fry, it is pretty safe to use.. Hang it to the wall or inside the cabinet.. Unprotected connectors laying around in the open to be touched or risking to spill water, coffe whatever on it is never a good idea.

But any AC/DC PSU nowadays comes with a buildin surge protector, this means as soon as it short cuts it should switch off and needs a hard reboot to start up again. (Meaning unplug and replug to the mains). If the PSU doesn't do this, than its failry outdated for decades and shouldn't be used anymore.
ALso if the PSu is over powered it will shut off before it gets to hot, an very early sign is flickering lights long before it switches off.

But the TC on the other hand, if the cat shortcuts the Channel and V+ it will fry the mosfet and the channel becomes unusable.  Thus however it is conneted via screw or plug, it still should be out of direct reach from anything touching it.

Use those fork connectors as shown in the picture, much easier to work with than naked cable ends.


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## aquatoid

Now that I have received my own TC421 I can see that even in the "official manual"/leaflet in the box the DC jack is described in exactly the same way, only for "small loads". So far no answer from the developers though...


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## zozo

aquatoid said:


> Now that I have received my own TC421 I can see that even in the "official manual"/leaflet in the box the DC jack is described in exactly the same way, only for "small loads". So far no answer from the developers though...



Must be an update than, maybe after some negative feedback about it.. My first TC i've bought was about 5 or 6 years ago. Don't remember it saying that. Bought a few others after that but didn't feel the need to reread the manual. Good thing i never used the plug for mains...

I also have no idea what is considered a small load and at what point it's getting high.

Tho the channels are rated in Amps.. And 4 amps per channel @ 12 violt is 48 watt LED light.. And that is actualy a lot of LED light already. My best guess for aqaurium use you must have a pretty large high tech tank to get to the high end of the device with light requirment.

If you use 50 watt devided over 5 channels, that's 10 watt per channel, you would pull 1/5, a bit over 20% of it's full capacity. But if they don't give a number i'm not sure if that can be considered small.

Ask the seller you bought it from. If its ebay or aliexpress, they rely mainly on positive feedback and usualy always answer swiftly to solve issues. Thus they don't want you to write negative feedback. And such distracting statement in the manual is defitively a future negative feedback trigger.


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## aquatoid

They actually have responded now. It seems the Facebook thing on their website was not really functioning too well. Or perhaps I just failed with it since Facebook really isn't something I generally use.

Sent an email today and got a reply today. And the *DC plug is rated for 6 Amps* only. Definitely a necessary thing to write with actual numbers instead of vague words. With that 16+ Amp converter with a DC plug I might have seen some smoke signals from the device. By my calculations I will be drawing more than that for sure. Replacing 4 x 36W fluorescent tubes.


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## zozo

aquatoid said:


> And the *DC plug is rated for 6 Amps* only. Definitely a necessary thing to write with actual numbers instead of vague words.



Indeed vague..



aquatoid said:


> With that 16+ Amp converter with a DC plug I might have seen some smoke signals from the device. By my calculations I will be drawing more than that for sure. Replacing 4 x 36W fluorescent tubes.



With what are you replacing the fluorescent tubes?

16 amp power supply doesn't tell me what you are actualy consumming..  A 16 amp rated PSU can deliver up to 16 amp it only gives what you ask as long as it stays bellow 16 Amp.

You need to add all the lights in wattage.. And there is where lots of people get distracted.

As described above, the PSU and the TC is rated in amps, but the lights are mainly rated in Watts.. Than you need to convert Watts to Amps to know how much the PSU is drawing through the TC.

For example if the lights you run all together draw 60 Watt @ 12 Volt than you need to devide Watt by Volt as 60/12= 5 amps

Than again if you want to know how many watts can i draw with 6 amp.. Multiply Volt x Amp in this case 6 x 12 = 72 Watt.


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## aquatoid

I based my calculations on this website: https://www.tc420.net/choosing-LEDs-for-your-aquarium.php

I'll be using 5630 LED strips. Based on the lumen values on the tubes I'm replacing the site suggested something that equates to 3 channels each having a 36 W load. Plus a night light in the 4th channel which won't be on with the others. And seeing how the PSU vendors suggest having 20% extra margin on top of the max load when you are selecting the wattage of the PSU, 150 W PSU is realistically a minimum for me. Assuming of course that I need that many LEDs. This is my first DIY light system, so I have no previous experience to lean on. 

I already have the LEDs (thanks China), and I went for a collection of warm white, cold white, blue and red ones. The plan as of now is to have 3 x warm white, 3 x cold white, 3 x blue and 1 x red strip bits (each with 3 LEDs) in one unit. Each channel would have 3 units so 9 in total. 

To be fair, I might still go for a 200 W PSU just to be safe, so it runs cooler and has better tolerances should my plans get more grandiose along the way. I'd rather be safe than sorry. Even got me some 16 AWG wire for the main line running through the lamp so it can take the maximum current each channel can output without going up in smoke. At least it should be 16 AWG, it just has no markings on it... While I was at it I also got some 18 AWG DC extension cords with plugs, so i can rig a fast plug system for the lights. 

I have plans, I just hope some of them work in practice...


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## zozo

Succes!.. Sounds good.. 

Tho might add the tc420.net blog is ok and technicaly a great guide but rather outdated regarding specified led types..

Example: he states


> 5630 are the newest and brightest LEDs currently available on strips.


But that is at the time of writing, i guess that might be pre 2014 and mean while much beter SMD leds have been developed giving alot more light at same consumption. Something like the SMD8520 Dual chip launched 2017. Is a smaller led with 65 lumen per led and 72 leds per metre and +/- 4500 lumen at 18 watt
That rather a lot of light for an aqaurium..  And the 5630 doesn't even come close to that.

The author realy should update his site with statements about newest and brightest currently available. That's distracting and simply not accurate.


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## aquatoid

I am still building my system, slowly but hopefully surely, and now I am working on the TC421 setup. 

One thing started nagging at the back of my head. When I set a channel to 100%, does that mean the device is pushing 4 Amps down that line no matter the load. So one LED would be really bright and hot for a really short while and then just burn out. Do I need to do more maths to calculate the nominal 100% for my load and then see what fraction that is of 4 Amps and use that percentage as the "100%" value in the controller software?

Like I've said before, I am no electrician, so I might have gotten all this very wrong, but it would be handy to know so I won't overload my LEDs and burn them out ahead of time.


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## zozo

aquatoid said:


> I am still building my system, slowly but hopefully surely, and now I am working on the TC421 setup.
> 
> One thing started nagging at the back of my head. When I set a channel to 100%, does that mean the device is pushing 4 Amps down that line no matter the load. So one LED would be really bright and hot for a really short while and then just burn out. Do I need to do more maths to calculate the nominal 100% for my load and then see what fraction that is of 4 Amps and use that percentage as the "100%" value in the controller software?
> 
> Like I've said before, I am no electrician, so I might have gotten all this very wrong, but it would be handy to know so I won't overload my LEDs and burn them out ahead of time.



No it doesn't..  Depending on the LED wattage.. The conversion is quite easy to make with this formula.

Volt x Amp = Watt

Example:

12 volt x 4 Amp = 48 Watt.. Means 1 channel can take 48 watt LED at 100%

If your LED consumes according specs  20 Watt at 12 volt (100%)

than

W / V = A makes 20 Watt / 12 volt  = 1,6 Amps load on the channel


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## aquatoid

zozo said:


> No it doesn't..  Depending on the LED wattage.. The conversion is quite easy to make with this formula.
> 
> Volt x Amp = Watt
> 
> Example:
> 
> 12 volt x 4 Amp = 48 Watt.. Means 1 channel can take 48 watt LED at 100%
> 
> If your LED consumes according specs  20 Watt at 12 volt (100%)
> 
> than
> 
> W / V = A makes 20 Watt / 12 volt  = 1,6 Amps load on the channel



I'm a bit sceptical here, but I do appreciate the answer. I know that constant voltage power supplies dish out just what the circuit needs, and my power supply is one of those. My problem is (comprehending) how the TC-unit determines the actual load on the channel and then adjusts that to the percentage defined by the user. By my logic the device could now be acting as a constant current supply overriding the actual power supplies regulation.

I'd really like to understand the deeper workings here, so I can trust what I'm doing. Sadly I don't (yet) have an ammeter at hand, so I can't make my own measurements.

(As much as load needs to run) x (% defined by user) < 4 Amps

or

4 Amps x % defined by user

https://electronics.stackexchange.c...-current-than-what-the-component-is-rated-for
Quote from that thread:
"
To answer the title of your question, the answer is no. It is not ok to supply more current to a component than its rated value.

However, it is ok to have a voltage power supply rated for more current than the components rated value because the component will draw as much as it needs. If you are pushing more current into (forcefully) the component, then the component will exceed its rated value, heat up and be destroyed. Such as if you use a constant current source or you use a large voltage (which will cause more current to flow). But if you use the rated voltage, then the load will only take what is required, regardless of how much current is available to be drawn from the source.
"


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## zozo

I'm not sure what you are trying to do here..  The TC controller is intended to work only with constant voltage setups at DCV12 or DCV24..

If you are using a LED that requires constant current i'm afraid the TC controller is not for you without DIYing its circuit.. 

Constant voltage is pretty straight foreward as stated in my previous answer..

Read this, it explains.. Tho mind the circuits given don't seem to apply for the TC421.. Something changed, not yet documented.
https://www.tc420.net/


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## aquatoid

Thank you, that PWM part was what was fuzzy for me even though I knew about that website. I just was thinking it would be the strength of DC current that does the dimming and brightening. And that TC while forcing a current would act as a constant current "PSU" unless some more calculations are done. I do not want constant current, I was worried about it!

I'm just "a bit" nervous about screwing up...

https://www.eetimes.com/document.asp?doc_id=1281013#
"LEDs can be dimmed in two ways: analog and pulse-width modulation (PWM) dimming. Analog dimming changes LED light output by simply adjusting the DC current in the string, while PWM dimming achieves the same effect by varying the duty cycle of a constant current in the string to effectively change the average current in the string. Despite its attractive simplicity, analog dimming is inappropriate for many applications."


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## zozo

I can imagine it is distracting all with Watts and Amps and constant current or constant voltage.. But with a DCV12 or DCV24 constant voltage led module/strip nothing much can go wrong.

In the end all leds require a constant current since all are the same, its a diode. The constant current in this case is provided by the current sense resistor on the module. That little black block on the strip for each set of 3 leds is the current sense resistor.

As said if you connect a 12 volt led strip that consumes 48 watt than the load on the TC channel is 4 amp current total. Dimming it wont change that, since PWM is pulse modulating switching the led on/off in high frequency at the cathode (negative lead) not affecting the current nor the voltage.


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## Jibber

Great thread as i've been looking into one of these controllers for a while now. I've now brought a TC421 with the intention of using it to control a couple of solenoid valves. I've set it all up and connected it but I've got a couple of problems. 1st is how do you change from fade to jump as i just need to open and close the solenoids and i'm not sure if the delay in ramping the voltage up will cause any damage. 2nd is i only get 15v at the output terminals, i'm using a 24v power supply and I've checked the input voltage on the v- and v+ terminals and it's 24.03v but i only ever get 15.3v between the v+ and Ch1 terminals. any help much appreciated. Thanks James


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## zozo

I'm not sure the TC421 has a jump setting, at least it does not show in its default PLed software version 2.2..
http://www.worlduniqueen.com/support_list.aspx?id=192&type=1&typeid=15

Drop the above website a line and ask if there are alternatives.. They are the TC developers..

Tho the TC420 Pled 2.1 does have this jump setting by default, now i'm not sure if this software works on the TC421 connected via USB.
That might be worth a try, depends on the chips extension configuration.. If both use same file extension or the update TC421 chip recognizes TC420 file exteinsion you're good to go. But probably will loose the WIFI ability..

The Wifi feature anyway is a bit of a strange only partialy functioning feature that doesn't realy add much to it.. You can only add schedules via Wifi but if you want to set a new schedule you still have to do this physicaly at the divice using its buttons.

Thus in your case using teh TC421 for other purpose than LED controlling is a bit of ??? What shall i say.. Not the best choice anyway.. I lately purchased a TC421 for a friend, installed it and found out it actualy is a waste of money regarding the extra near useless wifi feature.. Simply badly presale documented, if it was documeted fully never would have bought it..

If the earlier Pled version doesn't work in the TC421 you most likely did the wrong investment and need to purchase a TC420.. Or see if you can arrange a swap with the vendor..


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## rebel

Jibber said:


> Great thread as i've been looking into one of these controllers for a while now. I've now brought a TC421 with the intention of using it to control a couple of solenoid valves. I've set it all up and connected it but I've got a couple of problems. 1st is how do you change from fade to jump as i just need to open and close the solenoids and i'm not sure if the delay in ramping the voltage up will cause any damage. 2nd is i only get 15v at the output terminals, i'm using a 24v power supply and I've checked the input voltage on the v- and v+ terminals and it's 24.03v but i only ever get 15.3v between the v+ and Ch1 terminals. any help much appreciated. Thanks James


How about the other channels? Do they give you 24V? Maybe defective channel.


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## Jibber

good thinking rebel .Just tested it and they all seem to be outputting 23.9v now so must have been a glitch in the Matrix ! thanks for the suggestion tho


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## Ninegrain

Hi,

I am looking to use one of these with a Chihiros 1201 Plus RGB light. The light has three colour channels which can be individually programmed with the Commander 4 Bluetooth module. This works, however it is a pain to use and doesn't always save the settings correctly, which is very frustrating after having spent ages creating a constantly varying light spectrum across a replicated day (this takes a long time with the cumbersome app).

So, this is why I want to try the TC420. The light comes with a piece of cable to blank the Commander 4 and just run all channels at full power when it is on. It has 6 different prongs on one end, so I would just cut this and wire up each channel individually, similar to how its been suggested to cut the dimmer switch for the single channel Chihiros lights earlier in this thread. Ignoring my desire to control each colour separately for a minute, this is also necessary because the light draws 95W with all channels at 100%, which would exceed the 4amp limit of the TC420 and so would have to happen anyway for this light. 

My question though is that in the comments on a video I saw on youtube on the TC420 (This one: ), the producer states that the red channel may need to be run at 2.2 volts and so a voltage regulator would need to be connected in-line. 

Can anyone confirm if this would be the case and would advise I install such a regulator?  

I assume the power supply provides each channel with the same voltage, and so would the light not already have a regulator in-line somewhere else, and therefore I don't need to correct it myself? 

Or, is this just another made up statement on the internet and all channels are run at the same voltage?

Thanks in advance!


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## rebel

Best option for you is to actually measure the voltage and perhaps current coming out of the commander when it's working. Otherwise it would be difficult to guess unless if you have the the circuit diagrams for this light.

Chihiros plus RGB doesn't come cheap and you don't want to damage it!


----------

