# Advice on hardscape.



## Kazuya (11 Apr 2011)

I just got a 60-P 2 days ago.
Looking to start up a lightly planted tank with DSM.

Any advice for hardscape would be helpful.

*Equipment*
*Filter*: Eheim Pro I w/ Lily pipes
*Lighting*: Arcadia 2x24w with Osram bulbs. Incoming.
*Heater*:  Hydor 200w in line
*Substrate*: AS I and AS I powder type.
*CO2*: Hopefully a Victor set-up. For now just have a JBL U402,  
        ADA bubble counter, pollen glass type 3.
*Plants*: HC for the foreground, Anabias nana ver. petite for the middle.
           Any advice on plants for the back? 


Sorry for the bad pictures.
 Let the bashing begin. 










Here are some OHKO stones which I can use.




Quick shot with the stones in. Different shot




Just added.... New driftwood...




Side shot


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## Piece-of-fish (11 Apr 2011)

Hi, some people tried DSM on here with not much success, me included. No point.
I will have actually to restart the tank from the beginning now.
I would advice to skip DSM.


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## bigmatt (11 Apr 2011)

Is the cave in the corner serving any particular purpose?  I'm finding it pretty hard to see past that....
Knarly piece of wood though!
Matt


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## Kazuya (11 Apr 2011)

PoF:
Thanks. I wanted to give it a try. I have seen it work for some people. I know if I fail I will have to restart my tank.
Since I'm still waiting on the 75-P to come in. I just want to kind of play around with this one.
If I skip the DSM, Should I wait for the Victor regulator or just use the JBL CO2 kit that I have?

BigMatt:
Actually the caves are for my apisto cacatuoides. I would like to breed them.
They will also get covered in moss. Haven't decided which moss.
Does it look bad?
Thanks. I had to actually cut off some bits to make it fix like you see it in the pic.
If not I had to put it in the center with both branches going to each corner. Didn't look bad just wanted a more side look to it.



New pictures added...


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## bigmatt (11 Apr 2011)

I prefer that new shot where the cave isn't so obvious, but remember that's just my personal preference!
cheers
Matt


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## Piece-of-fish (11 Apr 2011)

You can try of course. That is why i did it. Had to try it once.
If you decide not to do it i'd wait for all equipment before starting.


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## Kazuya (12 Apr 2011)

So, I take it as the rock should stay in?
Like I said the caves will get cover in moss and the side of the entrance will have some kind of plant. Will really be mostly covered. But I hear you.

I will also just wait it out till I get the regulator and the light (which the light should be here this week)

Thanks


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## bigmatt (12 Apr 2011)

The stone looks nice - love Dragon! Having said that i'd try to use it to blend the wood into the substrate so it appears more natural (personal preference again) - post some shots and show me how wrong i am! 
M


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## Kazuya (12 Apr 2011)

Your not wrong. I just started with the DSM. Hopefully it works out.
On thursday I'm going to another LFS to see if I can get some more wood. 
I want 2 pieces to kind of go towards the rock on the far right and another piece to go over where the cave is.

What did you mean by this "blend the wood into the substrate so it appears more natural".
Should I push the wood further down? I have more AS left over, about 3 ltrs worth from my 9ltr bag. I can throw more in.


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## Kazuya (12 Apr 2011)

I took out 2 of the rocks today and added another piece of wood.

Might get a couple more little ohko stones for the center and back area.

Any thoughts....


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## Graeme Edwards (27 Apr 2011)

The points that strike me with your wood.....

Your have created a 'U' shape. Looking at that 'U', it is very smooth and flat in its appearance. The wood is vertical and flat faced as it sweeps around the tank from corner to corner. 
This gives the result of poor depth. To get over this, you need to create more depth markers for your scape. This could simply be a twist of the odd piece of wood. What you would be looking to do, it produce a mix of protrusions into the open space within the 'U'. 
Think of your tank like a dulux colour card. Each shade represents a level of depth in your tank (front to back). Lightest being near the front, darkest at the rear. Each major point of your hardscape should have a different shade.
If your hardscape is in a line in the middle of the tank, it would be one shade, this is flat and lacking interest. If your hardscape is scattered over the tank, there will be more "depth markers" creating more depth and interest.

Hope that helps.


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## Kazuya (28 Apr 2011)

Thanks for the help.

Wish it would of came a bit early before I planted.





How would you move the wood?
Currently the piece on the left side can not be position in any other way due to its size. I can push it down some.


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## Graeme Edwards (28 Apr 2011)

You can always snap or cut bits and bend them into place. Don't take the piece of wood as you see it. Work with it, take bits off it add smaller bits to increase it's interest.  
Maybe just add a few choice (small) bits to jut out into your open area.

Just some ideas.


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## Garuf (28 Apr 2011)

Graeme Edwards said:
			
		

> Think of your tank like a dulux colour card. Each shade represents a level of depth in your tank (front to back). Lightest being near the front, darkest at the rear.


That's the opposite to what they teach you in art school colour gets lighter and more pale the further away it gets. Surely imitating that would make more sense aesthetically? Darkest colours in the front whites colours in the back.


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## Kazuya (28 Apr 2011)

I will most likely add more pieces to the center area.
I do not want to cut any more pieces from the DW to the left.

I will take your words into consideration, and again thanks for the help.


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