# GSA - What would you do?



## PBM3000 (27 Jul 2017)

So here's my GSA algae issue.  I'll try to provide as much info as possible on my set up because this problem is making me want to gouge my eyeballs out!

*Tank*: 48" / 240l Fluval
*
Params*: All normal; Ammonia 0 Nitrites 0 Nitrates 10-20ppm, Ph 7.4, kH 6-7 gH 9-10
*
Lighting*: Fluval Fresh & Plant 48" (59w) at *75%

Photoperiod*: 7hrs LED.  Room exposed via window to soft, diffused light from adjacent conservatory.  Not what I would consider strong daylight/sunlight by any stretch. I have curtains drawn for most of the day when I can.
*
Gas*: Non-CO2
*
Filtration*: 1x Eheim 4e 350+ 1x Fluval 306
*
Circulation*: 2/3 length spray bar (see pic) for medium to strong surface agitation.  Flow is directed at the surface which then flows to front glass creating a 'corkscrew' general motion throughout the tank.  The outlet from the Eheim (right side) is a single 12" spray bar angled at 45 deg down.  In all I'd say the water circulation is good.
*
Fertilisation routine*:
Mon: Flourish 2.5ml
Tues: Excel: 5ml
Wed: 1/16th tsp KH2PO4
Thu: Flourish 2.5ml, Excel: 5ml
Fri: Rest Day
Sat: 1/16th tsp KH2PO4
Sun: Excel: 5ml

*Water Change*: 10-20% every three weeks.

*Stocking*: 8x Cardinals, 8x Ember Tetra, 6x Misc Corys, 14x Green Tiger Barbs, 8x Misc Platys, 3x SAEs, 15 *Amano* Shrimp, 9x Rummy Nose Tetra - nothing that produces heavy waste...

The above regime (recently started) appears to have made good improvement with GSA on my Anubias but on the rocks it's just getting worse.  See pics - yes, they're supposed to be *grey* Seiryu. One puzzle is why the substrate isn't getting this although I appreciate that because it's quartz based may not be as porous.

What would you do to correct this GSA and, to help me understand, why?

Fire away if I've forgotten to add anything.


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## kadoxu (28 Jul 2017)

That's normal. You should just clean the rocks using an old toothbrush... Or buy a few snails to clean them for you (Zebra Nerites do an awesome job for me).


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## dw1305 (28 Jul 2017)

Hi all,





PBM3000 said:


> *Water Change*: 10-20% every three weeks.


I'd definitely change some more water.





PBM3000 said:


> The above regime (recently started) appears to have made good improvement with GSA on my Anubias but on the rocks it's just getting worse. See pics - yes, they're supposed to be *grey* Seiryu





kadoxu said:


> Or buy a few snails to clean them for you (Zebra Nerites do an awesome job for me).


I agree with @kadoxu, Nerites would work, they are effective on hard landscape surfaces.

Personally I look on green colour as a plus point, I think the rocks look much more natural with a patina of biofilm. You won't find any submerged rocks in nature that aren't colonised by plants or animals, unless they are continually scoured by sand etc. 

It isn't quite the same, but what would the <"Statue of Liberty"> look like if they kept on scraping off the copper oxide so she wasn't green?

cheers Darrel


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## PBM3000 (28 Jul 2017)

Thanks. I agree that it looks natural but I'd like to reduce it if possible - there must be a cause. You certainly rarely see it in Iwagumi setups. I have two Nerites but would only buy more if they were guaranteed male (can't abide the eggs).

It would be so much more acceptable if a dense moss would grow on the rock instead!


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## dw1305 (28 Jul 2017)

Hi all, 





PBM3000 said:


> It would be so much more acceptable if a dense moss would grow on the rock instead!


You could try gluing some on with cyanoacrylate super glue. A list of mosses that attach is at:
<"Mosses that do or do not.....">.

cheers Darrel


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## Konsa (28 Jul 2017)

Hi 
The Iwagumi tanks are usually high tech and work on different principles.They are usually very low stocked (or stocked with little fish with relativly low waste production )Not to mention often those spotless scapes are kept by experienced aquarists and they put quite a bit of maintenance too.
If it is bothering you that much.Get a syringe with needle and spot dose the Excel over them with filters off for 5-10 minutes.It wont be instant change but a day or two U will be amased how clean your rocks are when the lights come on.It works every rime for me.The other mettod is to scrub them with a toothbrush on waterchanges 
Regards Konsa


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## kadoxu (28 Jul 2017)

PBM3000 said:


> there must be a cause


The cause is that there is light hitting the rocks, which ,together with the rocks' properties, makes that surface perfect for algae growth.



PBM3000 said:


> You certainly rarely see it in Iwagumi setups.


You rarely see it because, like @Konsa mentioned the rocks are cleaned regularly.



PBM3000 said:


> It would be so much more acceptable if a dense moss would grow on the rock instead!


I'm with Darrel... attach some to the rock then.  You can also try attaching them to the rocks with cotton thread and hope it attaches well before the thread disolves..


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## dw1305 (28 Jul 2017)

Hi all,





kadoxu said:


> The cause is that there is light hitting the rocks, which ,together with the rocks' properties, makes that surface perfect for algae growth.


That is it, with light and a solid surface, with even the slightest trace of nutrients, something is going to grow on it.

cheers Darrel


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## PBM3000 (8 Aug 2017)

Thanks all.

I'm now wondering whether EI dosing is going to make the situation worse (I'm now currently dosing at *1/3 EI* recommended levels). I'm going to closely monitor the GSA and if it gets any worse I'll have to dial the dosing right back or change the ratios (with further guidance).


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## roadmaster (8 Aug 2017)

Me wonder's what time does diffused light from yonder window break upon the tank?
If diffused lighting hit's down low on the tank say late afternoon after light's off ,maybe it is not so diffused?
This happens/happened in my living room tank about an hour before light's go off, and the sunlight bathes just one end of the tank for another hour or two with no lighting from above.
I see little tuft's of algae on some smooth stones down low on the substrate only on that end of the tank.
Used to scrub the stuff off with peroxide and tooth bush, but several month's ago,, I bought some bucephalandra and tried gluing them to the stones with limited success.
The buce seem's to like wood better than smooth surface.
I also closed the front blind a little more so that tank does not get any sunlight after my strait eight hour photoperiod.
Perhaps nothing,or something to add to the confusion.


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## PBM3000 (19 Aug 2017)

Thank you.

I'm contemplating a fiddle with my lighting.  It's currently on for seven hours (at 75% of a 59w LED).  Which is more critical - duration or intensity? Any suggestions?


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