# Upgrading lighting



## Getthejist (7 Mar 2012)

Hi guys,
           this is a question on lighting in case the title didn't give it away  . I want to upgrade my lighting on my 100l tank but i dont want to change/get rid of the hood is there a way to add an extra tube in or is there LED lighting that I could put in which is good but is a lighting strip not a hang on type. If you could suggest a way to add some better lighting into the hood it would be appreciated . By the way the tank has 20 watt lighting currently which is pretty awful  but I don't want an open top tank, also I'm aiming for a heavily planted tank.

Getthejist


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## Ady34 (7 Mar 2012)

*Re: Upgrading lightind*

Hi there, 
we need to know more info on the tank regards; dimensions, filtration/circulation, co2, ferts, tank make/hood make and plant species to be kept/keeping to be able to better advise.
Hope to hear more soon,
Cheerio,
Ady.


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## Getthejist (7 Mar 2012)

The tank is 100l it is a marina tank (hagen) im going to dose ferts and some easy life carbon (havent got any yet though) L80xD30xH40 I have some dwarf chain sword in there and 12 moss balls and some java fern hood is marina as well, I'm not really sure what plants i want in there apart from these and some christmas moss any suggestion via PM would be helpful but i don't think i can use PM yet, if there is any other things that you need to know just ask


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## Ady34 (8 Mar 2012)

Hi again,
is this your set up?.....
http://www.seapets.co.uk/products/aquar ... litre.html
If so, your right 20watt t8 is on the low side at 0.8w/gallon. You could easily double this amount to give 1.6 watts per gallon (wpg) so perhaps purchase a twin lighting controller (or just another single one if you dont mind having extra plugs) and buy another 20w t8 tube, fixing to the inside of the current lid in the same way as the other tube. This lighting with reflectors given the 40cm depth of your tank, would be enough for many species, such as the existing java fern and mosses. Cryptocoryne species and anubias generally are lower light tolerant also and there is good variety within the fern, moss, cryptocoryne and anubias genus'. You would no doubt also have success with stems such as hygrophila polysperma. The only plant i am unsure about regards liquid carbon is the moss. 
Alternatively you could go along the t5 route, for a tank of your size 2x 24w t5 would give 1.92 wpg, which would grow most species however higher lighting is less forgiving and c02 and fert demands increase. Its best to try to use the least amount of light required which helps in managing c02, fert demands, circulation issues and possible algae issues. Its also cheaper!
To get a better understanding of lighting have a read through the lighting tutorial: 
viewtopic.php?f=34&t=2271
this will help answer many light related questions.
Im also unsure about the slim s20 power filter which is included, this may need upgrading depending on stocking type and levels, however good tank husbandry and 50% weekly water changes should keep things running smoothly.   
Hope this helps a little. 
Cheerio,
Ady.


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## Getthejist (8 Mar 2012)

That is my tank, however I have a hydor prime 30(900lph) and I'm usingg it instead of the slim 20. I am also unsure about the use of liquid carbon with moss but I think I may dose the lower amount of carbon or do a test with some moss in glasses and see how they grow with or without carbon. I know for many species this would be enough light but I'd rather keep some medium light species and maybe have some crypts in shaded areas. Also I'm not a huge fan of big water changes as I only have my trusted 2 l jug to do them with


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## Ady34 (8 Mar 2012)

Hi,
good idea regarding the mosses.


			
				Getthejist said:
			
		

> Also I'm not a huge fan of big water changes as I only have my trusted 2 l jug to do them with


unfortunately higher tech planted tanks rely on large water changes to minimise organic waste build up so water changes are an essential routine, without which algae can infest.
However if your looking to minimise water changes maybe look through the El natural and low tech section:
viewforum.php?f=27, this may give you inspiration and help with your lower water change routine.
Cheerio,
Ady.


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## spyder (8 Mar 2012)

Most mosses are fine with liquid carbon although fissidens can be sensitive. Testing in glasses could be hit n miss with liquid carbon due to small water volumes. A few drops could fry fissidens.


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## Getthejist (8 Mar 2012)

I might forget the carbon then but i still want slightly better lighting at least 1-1.2 watts per gallon, also what is the definition of a high tech tank?


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## spyder (8 Mar 2012)

Liquid carbon is fine with mosses. No need to to ditch it. Testing in small quantities of water in glasses is just risky with the tiny doses of EC/Excell required. I've fried fissidens this way in the past. Xmas, Java, Flame and similar mosses are fine. I've also used easy carbo in a tank with fissidens fine. My last post was posted from my phone on my lunch break, sorry if I caused any confusion.

Most refer to high tech as pressurised co2 injection and high light. Fast growth = high maintenance.

Adding 1 more T8 as suggested would be good unless you like crypts, anubias and frogbit. As posted by Ady34, you up the light's, you up demands for co2/nutrients. Adding the extra tube would require at least a daily dose of liquid carbon.

If you find maintenance hard to fit in with your schedule, you should search around for the "dirt tank" post, posted by Troi. Low tech, slow growth, very little water changes perhaps every month or so (10-20%) which should work well with your current gear.


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## Getthejist (8 Mar 2012)

I'm using dirt but I don't want very slow growth, thats why I want the extra tube, also I know of people who have crypts in tanks with bright light and I was going to get some crypts and put them in a shaded area of my tank. If I got a 10 w tube would that be ok to use and keep down water changes?


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## JenCliBee (8 Mar 2012)

Getthejist said:
			
		

> I'm using dirt but I don't want very slow growth, thats why I want the extra tube, also I know of people who have crypts in tanks with bright light and I was going to get some crypts and put them in a shaded area of my tank. If I got a 10 w tube would that be ok to use and keep down water changes?




I think your missing the point a little, the higher the light the more the plants grow, the more organic waste produced.... this is what the water changes are there to do, rid the organic waste so you dont have a build up. 

You are not going to get fast growth with the current lights, if you up the lighting as you've mentioned then you need to correct the other aspects...co2, ferts and flow etc... simples!

The more you increase the light the more demand for foods (co2/ferts)... if you dont give them what they need, they suffer.... once they suffer algae takes hold.

Basically the only way you can do the minimal water change method realistically is as suggested above, lower light, dirt base...similar to the walstad method i guess.


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