# DIY Stand. What do you think?



## sisko (5 Nov 2008)

Ok, I've built this one in the afternoon. All my measurements worked out well so I'm quite pleased   

My question is do you think it's strong enough to hold a RIO 180? I still have 2 other legs which supposed to go in the middle, but I rather leave that space opened.
Here are the pics:













The sides and doors are still missing and I'm going to place a 1.5 cm thick chipboard on the top. It looks really massive, but I just don't know!!!
Oh yeah, the timber is 89x38 mm


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## JamesM (5 Nov 2008)

That's stud work timer, right? 

That should be fine mate  I've built loads of stuff with stud work timber  My local Wickes love me I'm there so much  

I'd add some 45 degree cross bracing though, just to beef it up some more. There is no such thing as overkill


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## Mark Evans (5 Nov 2008)

JAmesM said:
			
		

> d add some 45 degree cross bracing though, just to beef it up some more. There is no such thing as overkill



yep, traingles mate, thats where its at. looks good. don't forget the centre strength


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## sisko (5 Nov 2008)

It's called CLS Timber and yes Wickes rules!!!   
The 45 degree is a good idea, but don't really want anything in the front.


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## JamesM (5 Nov 2008)

One 45 at the back, and one at one side with be fine mate. That'll lock it in place and make it rigid. 

You could double up on the front and back top rails, then you should be ok without a centre leg.

How are you going to clad it? Or aren't you?


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## sisko (5 Nov 2008)

Clad? Do you mean cover it? Or treat it? I'll get some chipboard from homebase, they have more colours than Wickes and it's even closer


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## JamesM (5 Nov 2008)

Yeah, cover it up... If you use structural ply wood, you wouldn't need any 45 degree braces as the clad with hold it together. You can be picky about it too, because some sheets have really nice grain that looks great when stained and protected. Yes, I'm a woodwork junkie. Norm Abram is my hero.

[edit] http://www.wickes.co.uk/Sheet-Exterior- ... nvt/110036

A quick sand and this stuff looks awesome!


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## sisko (5 Nov 2008)

How does the "structural ply wood" look like? Is it the one with the big chips?   
I want one layer on the top and one on the bottom of the top frame. That should hold it. Should.... :?


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## sisko (5 Nov 2008)

Great!! Thanks James, I'll post a pic of the finished cabinet!


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## JamesM (5 Nov 2008)

sisko said:
			
		

> How does the "structural ply wood" look like? Is it the one with the big chips?
> I want one layer on the top and one on the bottom of the top frame. That should hold it. Should.... :?


Nah, that's OSB (http://www.wickes.co.uk/Sheet-OSB/Orien ... nvt/110024). Great if you want to then cover that up with something else - I built a shed from it once, then clad that in shiplap cladding. Will last a lifetime, but its butt-ugly. Like so: http://img.diytrade.com/cdimg/482241/54 ... /OSB_3.jpg

You can get different grades of ply wood, like exterior, and spruce. This has a nice natural grain, like so: http://www.tri-valley.k12.il.us/sjones/plywood.jpg

Exterior tends to be rougher and will require more work, but resists water quite well (to a point).


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## bugs (5 Nov 2008)

How do you plan to finish it - paint, varnish? MDF is very good for painting if it's done well with a good primer coat. I'd go for moisture resistant and put some coats of paint on before fixing (to be sure all edges are sealed) and then a finishing coat. (Beware of the dust with MDF though   ...). If you're not painting then Birch faced ply is good. You would probably get away with 9mm thick as it is side forces that you managing.


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## sisko (5 Nov 2008)

Don't really now yet. I was gonna use 15mm chipboard for the sides and the top, pre-made doors on the front. Found some good ones at Wickes, but they around Â£10 each. James made me thinking with the plywood. I'll try to go back this week and look around.
Chipboard is good, cos they can cut it to size, don't have to bother with painting and looks ok. The only problem you can't get it in black ANYWHERE!!
I can't do much diy at home specially not painting!! my workshop is my room!   A few black stains looked odd on the beige carpet!


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## JamesM (5 Nov 2008)

I'd go with stain over plywood, with a few coats of Danish oil to protect it. Stains come in hundreds of colours too. Each to their own though 

I'm adding some wood trim to my tank right now... dark oak and several coats of oil to seal it. The last tank was trimmed in Teak, which is a really nice red.


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## GreenNeedle (6 Nov 2008)

I know you said you don't want anything at the front but if you think about it, then its god to have something where the doors meet at the front and you can fit locks into this piece if required.

AC


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## sisko (6 Nov 2008)

That's exactly what I was thinking about this morning with a coffee in my hand.   
I'm going to put a leg in in the front and 2 45 degrees at the back so it stays kind of opened. Still dunno about the cladding. I've seen some good ideas on another forum, but haven't got the tools!    I guess I'm gonna have to try my best with a handsaw and a screwdriver!   You can achieve a lot with plywood and some nice coloured finish, but the simplicity of the furniture board attracts me.


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## GreenNeedle (6 Nov 2008)

You could just get Jackson Shipley to cut some nice pine into the exact sizes you want and screw them to the outisde of the frame.  Pine looks great stained.

AC


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## Goodygumdrops (6 Nov 2008)

I've got panels of that fake tongue and groove stuff you get out of b&q on the walls in my kitchen.It's lightweight and comes in manageable sized sheets,easy to work with and would finish it off great.
Bit of that,bit of moulding round the edge,paint it up,Bob's yer uncle.


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## JazzyJeff (6 Nov 2008)

I had a 5x2x2 sat on a DIY stand very similar, I used pine T&G on the sides, premade pine doors and some nice moldings and a few coats of Light Oak Stain and it looked awesome !!!!!


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## bugs (6 Nov 2008)

(If you do decide to use oil don't leave the rags bunched up in a ball... The can ignite spontaneously...)


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## JamesM (6 Nov 2008)

bugs said:
			
		

> (If you do decide to use oil don't leave the rags bunched up in a ball... The can ignite spontaneously...)


Good point  It can be very hazardous leaving them scrunched up :!: 

You can brush oil on too


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## sisko (9 Nov 2008)

Tomorrow morning first thing is Wickes! I'll go for pine panels with dark oak varnish    Try to finish it by next weekend!
Is the varnish itself enough protection against water spillages?


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## willjones (10 Nov 2008)

Nice start, haven't read all the comments but just wanted to add my experience of making a diy stand. For the frame I copied the structure from the diy stand on this webpage:
http://www.aquariumlife.net/projects/diy-aquarium-stand/56.asp
I glued the pieces of wood together, fixing them with screws, then removing the screws to use again. It is very rigid.
For the exterior, I glued on 4mm oak veneer ply (bit more pricey but looks better in my opinion), I had to go to a lumbar yard to get this. I also made door frames from left overs of the top and used the same ply for the door panels.
I've got some photos of the result here:
http://www.ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=2156
A word of warning, don't make the stand too tall and have to cut the top off as I did. Easy to underestimate the height when you don't have the tank on top. Also normal varnish should be fine as long as spills aren't left to linger for too long.
Also when connecting up the pipework avoid tight elbows - you'll get more out of your filter.


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## GreenNeedle (10 Nov 2008)

I would let the wood settle flat in your room for a week or so!!  When I di my pine hood I put it together ans was varnishing 24 hours after the pieces were cut and therefore they got onto the tank before they had acclimitised!!  The 'flap' now bends upward a little at the front from resting on the little cork pads I used to stop it banging if it fell.

I used clear yacht varnish on the inside of the hood and plain dye on the outside.  No problems really but you may want to use a silk/satin varnish on the outside.  My hood does have a few water stain rings on it where I put the bucket when syphoning water back in.  I call it character though. lol 

AC


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## GreenNeedle (10 Nov 2008)

I think if I ever redo mine I will think about using some of that black marble/granite gloss effect worksurface fr the sides and top.  A bit like a marble plinth (green machine style.)  Have to improvise with the doors though or they're gonna be heavy. he, he.

AC


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## sisko (11 Nov 2008)

Thanks guys, I really appreciate your comments! 

Willjones - 
Beautiful stand, well done!!   I was gonna build mine low but at the end it will be as high as a normal Juwel stand. A bit worried about the width though! I have thick carpet in the room which I'm afraid will make it a bit wobbly! You don't want to hear the wobbly and the stand in the same sentence!    If I did it again I added extra 10cm just to make it more stable. Once it's all in one and painted I'll make a friend to sit on the top  while I'll try to knock over!!   

SuperColey1 - 
The character makes it special. lol I don't know about the green machine style cabinets, but found this ADA style the other day:  http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b95/A ... urnal3.jpg

I really like it! (full journal: http://aquariumlife.com.au/archive/inde ... -2064.html )
Work keeps me busy so can't go to buy anything for another few days, but at least I have time to figure out the final style


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## GreenNeedle (11 Nov 2008)

I don't think they sell cabinets in this style, but I mean the plinths that they use for their disaply tanks like this one (hope they don't mind me using their pics):






I was thinking more of a black gloss marble effect rather than this pink/red style and would probably have to buy some of the laminate/veneer on it's own rather than actual worktop for the doors.

AC


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## bugs (11 Nov 2008)

Use feet to make it stable on the carpet. You'll create high-pressure points which will resist the wobble. Make sure they're as near to the edge as possible and located within the main structural lines of the cabinet (i.e. your tank will transfer the weight down through the verticals - put the feet under the verticals to ensure you don't introduce any stresses in your structure.


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## beeky (13 Nov 2008)

SuperColey1 said:
			
		

> I used clear yacht varnish on the inside of the hood and plain dye on the outside.  No problems really but you may want to use a silk/satin varnish on the outside.  My hood does have a few water stain rings on it where I put the bucket when syphoning water back in.  I call it character though. lol



Be careful buying yacht varnish. Most "yacht" varnish is just clear polyeurathane(sp?) but you can also get "proper" yacht varnish that includes a chemical to stop barnacles attaching themselves and is generally not a good idea around fuana (I don't think it just affects barnacles!)


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## Goodygumdrops (20 Dec 2008)

Finished your stand yet???


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## sisko (20 Dec 2008)

99.5% done!  Took much longer than I thought, though! I'm on holiday so can't show any pics atm. Will be back next year only, I'll upload some photos than!

Thanks for asking!


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## Goodygumdrops (20 Dec 2008)

Yay!!I've been wondering about this project!


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## sisko (10 Jan 2009)

Finally an update!Sorry for being late!!
First the pics:

















At the end I decided to go black. The tank is black so this seemed the best colour for me. I used exterior plywood to cover the sides and the top and pre-made doors from Wickes. Painted all with matt black wood paint. I'm quite pleased with the look of the cabinet, but something went wrong and the top is not 100% flat!! When I first put the tank on, the front left corner wasn't even touching the wood (first picture)!! Still don't know what happened, I guess the wood dried out and deformed a bit after everything was glued and screwed together. I purchased a protector mat from AE and placed underneath the tank, REALLY hope it will be fine!!   :? 
On the inside I used teak dye, got it for free.
I plan to place a sump on the left side on that little shelf that's why there is no back panel there jet. The support timber at the back is not exactly on the middle so I can push the sump in.

Still want to fix an edge on, so the mat wont be visible underneath the tank. Hopefully tomorrow!
Thx for looking!!!!


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## JamesM (10 Jan 2009)

That is one great looking cabinet mate  Are you happy with it? I would be! Did you make the hood also?


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## sisko (10 Jan 2009)

Thank you James!! Yes, I'm very pleased!    
No, the hood is original (Rio 180 2x45w T5). Was thinking about removing the top frame and make a new hood and frame, but don't want to spend more money on it. Now just can't wait to fill it up and plant it!


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## LondonDragon (11 Jan 2009)

Final product looks great  thanks for sharing the DIY with us, great work 5*


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## Simon D (11 Jan 2009)

Well done, great job. I love the finish!

I notice you didn't go with the cross bracing i n the end, or is there something hidden on the sides?


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## sisko (11 Jan 2009)

simondoherty1 said:
			
		

> Well done, great job. I love the finish!
> 
> I notice you didn't go with the cross bracing i n the end, or is there something hidden on the sides?


You're right, there is no cross bracing. I used 9mm thick plywood on the sides, after screwing and glueing them on it feels indestructible!!! 

Thanks very much for all the advice and comments guys, really appreciate it!!!


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## Behold (11 Jan 2009)

Looks a top job that!!!! i never did 45's on my old tank i did the cladding held it all together nice and strong. I used pine flooring for mine and it all clicked together to add strength.

That does look solid on yours !!!


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## Garuf (11 Jan 2009)

Where abouts in the world are you? Fancy making me one? I'm very impressed indeed!


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## sisko (11 Jan 2009)

Garuf said:
			
		

> Where abouts in the world are you? Fancy making me one? I'm very impressed indeed!


  
London mate! Can help you out if you live near by!
If I had to make another one I used only plywood, no timbers. But I have an even better idea. The other day I was wasting my time in Ikea and had a great idea! For my next stand I'm gonna use kitchen cabinets!!! You can by them in various sizes, I think from 30cm to 60cm wide and same the depth. For doors you can choose from about 20 colours!
It's easy, you just glue 2-3 together, a cross brace at the back, get some plywood for the top (or kitchen worktop), fix the doors and you're done! Can't be more than Â£100 and a half a day!


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