# Any Idea What This Algae Is?



## Katie656 (27 Jan 2019)

Hi,

I have a 57 litre Fluval flex that is planted. Specs are as follows: 
Standard LEDs that came with the tank (7000k)
Standard filter that came with the tank
Water changes are 50% weekly
Heated to around 26.5C
TNC Carbon 0.8ml daily (just under recommended amount
TNC complete 5ml weekly (recommended dosage)
Stocked with 1 Siamese fighter, 6 Harlequin Rasbora and unknown number of MTS.

Dose anyone know what this black algae is or how to deal with it? I’ve tried researching but can’t find anything like it. It kind of looks like the start of BBA (I think) but has looked like this for months without growing tufts. 

Thanks


----------



## GHNelson (27 Jan 2019)

Hi Katie
Looks like a combination of diatoms and green dust algae!
www.theplantedtank.co.uk/algae.htm
hoggie


----------



## Katie656 (27 Jan 2019)

Hi Hoggie,

Thanks for the suggestion. I’ve always had a bit of a problem with diatoms, especially in my other tank, and I get a bit of dust algae on my glass. You could be on to something


----------



## GHNelson (27 Jan 2019)

Try dimming the lighting and reduce the duration period!
hoggie


----------



## DutchMuch (27 Jan 2019)

Ill be the one to mention the plants its growing on dont look healthy at all so thats most likely why your having this issue is due to poor plants health.


----------



## Katie656 (27 Jan 2019)

Thank you DutchMuch, I agree that there is probably a problem with something in this tank. The plants aren’t really growing at all. Looking at my set up do you have any idea of what I can do to improve the health of the plants? Any suggestions would be most welcome. 

There was a major melt in this tank several months ago. I lost everything bar the val and crypts. I think it was the result of me baffling the filter so there wasn’t enough flow. I have since added plants but they are not doing a lot

I can certainly try dimming the lights slightly and shortening the photoperiod from 7 hours to six hours.


----------



## DutchMuch (27 Jan 2019)

7 hours is to short, up the photoperiod to 8 hours minimum.

i dont know whats in TNC complete so that'd be nice info if u can


----------



## Katie656 (27 Jan 2019)

Here’s a photo, it can probably tell you more than I can.


----------



## DutchMuch (27 Jan 2019)

Yea i have absolutely no clue if that is a good fertilizer or not haha

personally this is what i dose 
*
10- 20 Gallon Aquariums*
+/- 1/8 tsp KN03 (N) 3x a week 
+/- 1/32 tsp KH2P04 (P) 3x a week
+/- 1/32 tsp (2ml) Trace Elements 3x a week
50% weekly water change


*20-40 Gallon Aquariums *
+/- ¼ tsp KN03 3x a week
+/- 1/16 tsp KH2P04 3x a week
+/- 1/16 tsp (5ml) Trace Elements 3x a week
50% weekly water change


----------



## Konsa (27 Jan 2019)

Hi
Your fertiliser is good.The only thing U may consider doing is dosing it daily not weekly.Just put 1-2ml 6 days a week.Also the addition of liquid carbon is good.Hope U are adding the carbon daily?
I will disagree about the 7 hours light being to short.I have thanks that I kept 6 h light in for years with much more plants in.And they all did well.I wont extend the photoperiod untill that tank is full with  plants to the rim.
The Cryptocorine sp require a litle bit deeper substrate as they will develop strong root system before they put loads of leaves.Yours seems just covering the bottom.U need sth like 4-5 cm minimum.
Try to get a bit more fast growing plants in if U can.
Hygrophila Siamensis 53,Heteranthera zosterifolia, Limnophila sessiliflora are all easy rampant growers for U to consider .
And trim them affected leaves as soon as U can.
Also U dont need 26.5°C temperature.U can safely drop it to 24 and that will give U better gas exchange and the plants  will appreciate it.
Regards Konsa


----------



## DutchMuch (27 Jan 2019)

Konsa said:


> he Cryptocorine sp require a litle bit deeper substrate as they will develop strong root system before they put loads of leaves.


Very true, i have balansae (oh how i regret planting this) and it has roots going over 18" long in my substrate  

So when i want to kill one of the plants i do not pull it i simply cut it as far down as i can, because i simply cannot remove them without destroying everything.


----------



## Konsa (27 Jan 2019)

DutchMuch said:


> Very true, i have balansae (oh how i regret planting this) and it has roots going over 18" long in my substrate
> 
> So when i want to kill one of the plants i do not pull it i simply cut it as far down as i can, because i simply cannot remove them without destroying everything.


Hi
If the tuber in the substrate is intact they will regrow no problem.
Regards Konsa


----------



## GHNelson (27 Jan 2019)

Katie
You could add some root feeding tablets also!...


----------



## Katie656 (27 Jan 2019)

Thank you Konsa, 

I do dose the liquid carbon daily and can easily switch to to dosing the fertiliser daily too. I have always known the sand was a bit shallow, just been too lazy to change it . I have some JBL Sansibar left over from my other tank that should give a good 5 or 6 cm of coverage, changing it over can be my project for next weekend. 

I will remove all of the affected leaves ASAP and get one of the fast growers you suggested too.


----------



## Katie656 (27 Jan 2019)

Thanks Hoggie, 

I have some root tabs in the cupboard somewhere. I will add them when I change the substrate over, give the Sansibar a boost.


----------



## dw1305 (27 Jan 2019)

Hi all,





DutchMuch said:


> the plants its growing on dont look healthy at all


They don't awful, but they don't look great, other than the _Vallisneria. 

@Katie656 _do you know if you have very hard tap water? You should be able to get an answer from your water supplier.

cheers Darrel


----------



## Katie656 (27 Jan 2019)

Hi Darrel,

I actually have very soft tap water. Straight out of the tap my pH is 7.6 with 2dKH and 3dGH. I use Seachem’s alkaline and acid buffers along with Equilibrium to get my parameters to 3dKH, 5dGH and pH is 7.2.


----------



## dw1305 (27 Jan 2019)

Hi all,





Katie656 said:


> I actually have very soft tap water.


That makes it easier.





Katie656 said:


> I use Seachem’s alkaline and acid buffers along with Equilibrium to get my parameters to 3dKH, 5dGH and pH is 7.2.


You don't need both the alkaline and acid buffers, and you might not actually need either of them, there is an explanation of why in <"TDS and remineralising...">.

Do you have a TDS (conductivity) meter?

cheers Darrel


----------



## DutchMuch (27 Jan 2019)

Konsa said:


> Hi
> If the tuber in the substrate is intact they will regrow no problem.
> Regards Konsa


haha yea i know, i haven't had a failed trim yet  

what i do is i cut the leaves until it basically just starves. Seems to work for me. Ty!


----------



## Katie656 (27 Jan 2019)

Unfortunately I don’t have a TDS meter, it is something I have considered getting but not sure what I would do with the information at this point. To be honest water chemistry just baffles me, lol.

I use the Alkaline Buffer to stop my pH from dropping below 6, which I believe would cause my nitrifying bacteria go dormant. The acid buffer is to stop my pH from being pushed up too high. Please correct me if I am wrong on the low pH/nitrifying bacteria thing. I totally get how fish who have evolved to thrive in poorly buffered water can cope with a fluctuating pH and how adding TDS to the water can be counterproductive. I am also happy to save a bit money if I can.


----------



## dw1305 (27 Jan 2019)

Hi all,





Katie656 said:


> I use the Alkaline Buffer to stop my pH from dropping below 6, which I believe would cause my nitrifying bacteria go dormant. The acid buffer is to stop my pH from being pushed up too high. Please correct me if I am wrong on the low pH/nitrifying bacteria thing


Yes it isn't true. You don't need the buffers. have a look at <"The soil substrate .....">

cheers Darrel


----------



## Katie656 (28 Jan 2019)

Wow, interesting. Thank you - you have given me a lot to consider


----------



## dw1305 (28 Jan 2019)

Hi all, 
@Katie656, this is my personal opinion, and not the official view of the forum, but a lot of  the "expert advice" on other forums is incorrect, and often written by people who don't understand the science that that underlies our hobby. I think pH is <"particularly problematic">, because pH readings often need some interpretation, and you can't extrapolate from hard (where pH changes are small) to soft water (where pH is much more of a movable feast) . 

I think there is also an issue with the sellers of certain products, who are, at best, being economical with the truth. I understand that you can have an economic model where you make a profit by imbuing a  cheap product with all sorts of magical properties and <"selling it for a large mark-up">, or continually selling a replacement part (<"or product">) that doesn't need replacing (or has little intrinsic value), but I'm pretty sure they are counter-productive in the longer term.

<"Diana Walstad's"> book <"The Ecology of the Planted Aquarium"> is well worth reading, it explains why plants (and particularly those with emergent or floating leaves) are so important in maintaining a successful planted aquarium. 

Additionally both she and <"Dr Tim Hovanec"> reviewed some of, <"their original comments"> based upon subsequent research and/or personal experience. 

cheers Darrel


----------



## sparkyweasel (28 Jan 2019)

Nicely worded, Darrel. 

I like to remember that when I started keeping fish there were old-timers who had been keeping and breeding all sorts of fish, and growing great plants, who had never heard of nitrosomonas, pH, nitrate etc, never mind testing for them.


----------



## Katie656 (28 Jan 2019)

Darrel, I have had a quick look at the book you have mentioned on Amazon. It’s very interesting, I have ordered a copy so that I can read it further.


----------

