# Co2 problem...



## 13r0wn7 (18 Sep 2014)

Yet another co2 problem!! 
I have had no problems until I changed my co2 bottle over a few days ago and also put baby oil instead of water Into my bubble counter.
Ever since then I cannot seem to get any co2 in the tank at all. Ph does not move neither does the dc change from blue.
Yesterday I made sure it was all sealed and also replaced the counter with water just incase.
I can't visually see air bubbles in the pipe leaving the inline atomiser.
The only thing I can think of that there's a chance the co2 bottle is filled with air? Is there any chance that could be the case?  It's a industrial bottle I get it filled up once empty. 
Any ideas? Cheers


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## ian_m (18 Sep 2014)

Bottle pressure ?

CO2 should be around 55bar or 800psi as it is liquid. Air can be any pressure you want, but typical air bottle will be 230-330bar.


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## 13r0wn7 (18 Sep 2014)

Can* sorry


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## 13r0wn7 (18 Sep 2014)

The bottle pressure is the same as usual. I'd say 750


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## ian_m (18 Sep 2014)

When I have had bubble counter working, but blue drop checker its always been due to a leak. Dunk as much as you can in a bucket of water, in my case one way valve and bubble counter and I found leaks.....

- Once the one way valve was leaking at the joint where it was joined together. Replaced.
- Another the locking nuts on bubble counter cracked.
- And another the plastic of the cheap Hong Kong bubble counter was attacked by the CO2 and crazed.

Now got slightly more expensive JBL parts and have been fine for last year or two.


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## 13r0wn7 (18 Sep 2014)

The thing is I can visually see the bubbles leaving the inline atomizer while shining a light on the hose. 
So that tells me the air/co2 is getting to the filter. So from there either the air/co2 is escaping. Can it get out the filter? Or would there be a leak ? 


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## ian_m (18 Sep 2014)

You might have a leak between bubble counter and in line atomiser, leading to not enough CO2 getting through the atomiser.

Also contamination of drop checker, with tank water, tap water can prevent it changing.

Try cleaning drop checker, wash with distilled (or RO) water and refill. I assume you are using shop bought 4dKH solution rather then rolled your own ?


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## 13r0wn7 (18 Sep 2014)

Yeh I am also using ph checker aswell. I will try looking for a leak again. Nightmare this.
What are the chances of them filling with air instead of co2 ? 


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## ian_m (18 Sep 2014)

13r0wn7 said:


> What are the chances of them filling with air instead of co2 ?


Zero. If you have a tank pressure of 800psi that stays at 800psi as you are using gas then its CO2, the pressure is maintained by the liquid CO2 in the cylinder. Once all the liquid has gone the pressure will start to fall.

If it was air at 800psi as you used gas the pressure would drop.

To test, get a lit candle squirt gas from low pressure side of your setup ie disconnect pipe from diffuser. If candle goes out it's CO2.

Did think it was pub gas you have got (mixture of CO2 and nitrogen), but cylinder pressure is 200bar, not your 50bar reading.


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## 13r0wn7 (18 Sep 2014)

Thanks for that Ian.
Think I have found my problem...






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## X3NiTH (18 Sep 2014)

Is it just me or does that look like it's cracked due to internal pressure?


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## Crossocheilus (18 Sep 2014)

Wouldn't it pop at the seams if it was a pressure issue?


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## kirk (18 Sep 2014)

I was going to say, non return valve, then I saw your pic of the atomiser, oh dear  what's going on with today's plastics? Sooner someone starts making stainless ones with or without a glass window or something the better.


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## 13r0wn7 (18 Sep 2014)

kirk said:


> I was going to say, non return valve, then I saw your pic of the atomiser, oh dear  what's going on with today's plastics? Sooner someone starts making stainless ones with or without a glass window or something the better.




I did think that and I removed it to test and made no difference! I have a feeling that the ceramic has become blocked and the co2 has had nowhere to go...


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## kirk (18 Sep 2014)

^ still... You would think a pipe joint or a non return would go before the window on that. All my problems lately plus seeing this is steering me towards going low tech.  Ours sons low tech is plodding away hastle free an low maintenance, our hightech is in bits most of the time    Are you going to try and repair it? I recon that chemical putty/ milliput will do it. I've used it on parts on my van where I've snapped pipe fittings off related to the turbo and sensors and it's held ok.


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## 13r0wn7 (18 Sep 2014)

No I don't think so. Repairing things that takes pressure prob end in bad news. I know what you mean! Hard work!!


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## kirk (18 Sep 2014)

Lol, I'll have a go at fixing anything as im tight


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## Andy Thurston (18 Sep 2014)

X3NiTH said:


> Is it just me or does that look like it's cracked due to internal pressure?


I'd say it looks like its been squashed. If it was a pressure failure it would fail from the weakest point


kirk said:


> I was going to say, non return valve, then I saw your pic of the atomiser, oh dear  what's going on with today's plastics? Sooner someone starts making stainless ones with or without a glass window or something the better.


standards dropped when we started using ce instead of the kite mark 
Now theres an idea. when mine fails i might make one from a few stainless fittings. It can't be that hard, i might need to borrow a lathe though


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## ian_m (19 Sep 2014)

13r0wn7 said:


> Think I have found my problem...


Looks like impact damage, the cracks radiating out from point of impact. My crazed plastic in cheap bubble counter as all of it, so it leaked like a sieve, unlike yours where cracked at point of impact.


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## 13r0wn7 (19 Sep 2014)

I have spoken to Karol and he is going to send me a replacement  



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