# My first rescape



## EA James (22 May 2020)

Hi all,

Finally got around to rescaping my tank for the first time! I bought the tank and set it up about a year ago but rushed into the scape with little to no research so it didn't really do well! Since then i'd like to think i know a bit more and now i'm really pleased with the outcome, although it's no where near as good as most of the tanks I've seen on here! 

I'd love to hear your opinions 

More plants are on the way to build up the mid and top section and hide the heater!

co2art set up is coming next week but i might have to hold fire on that as I've just found out my lighting is not sufficient, pretty gutted about that!

Tank is an Evolution Aqua 1200, Fluval Aquasky 2.0 lighting, Fluval FX-4 filter with Eheim pre filter, Hydor Koralia 2200 LPH powerhead, co2art Pro series complete set up on its way


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## Angelfishguy99 (22 May 2020)

I love the contrast of the sand and rock


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## EA James (22 May 2020)

Angelfishguy99 said:


> I love the contrast of the sand and rock


Thank you, I wanted to try and soften it from the wood and sand. Could probably do with some smaller pieces of rock to blend it more?


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## Angelfishguy99 (22 May 2020)

EA James said:


> Thank you, I wanted to try and soften it from the wood and sand. Could probably do with some smaller pieces of rock to blend it more?



Everyone taste is personal but i like the sharp contrast it gives. Once more plants are in and the current ones have grown i am sure they will soften the look anyways. Either way the tank is looking great


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## alto (22 May 2020)

I agree with @Angelfishguy99  on keeping that contrast for now - especially as it makes it much easier to keep sand clean  
(sand sifting crew can also do a lot to keep sand turning over, though they can also move soil ... though perhaps not as thoroughly  as Amano Shrimp )

Even with the relatively low light, low levels of CO2 would be welcomed by the plants - just aim for 5-10 ppm CO2 to start  

I’d move the heater behind the Vallisneria, near filter inlet so that the tech is only in one area 
(though I’ve been guilty of the diagonal-across-the-back-heater many times  )


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## EA James (23 May 2020)

Angelfishguy99 said:


> Either way the tank is looking great



Thank you 😊



alto said:


> (sand sifting crew can also do a lot to keep sand turning over, though they can also move soil ... though perhaps not as thoroughly as Amano Shrimp )



I've got 8 Amano's, 2 Bamboo's and 8 Kuhli loach, in the mornings it looks like they've all had a good rummage around. I've been thinking about a group of Corydora but still not sure yet, not that i even have a choice at the moment!!



alto said:


> Even with the relatively low light, low levels of CO2 would be welcomed by the plants - just aim for 5-10 ppm CO2 to start



Ok, i was talking to @Zeus. about this and he confimed i should start off low and gradually build up. How will i test the PPM of co2?



alto said:


> I’d move the heater behind the Vallisneria



The heater will be hidden soon once the other plants turn up. I hate it when you can see equipment in the aquarium, spoils it in my opinion! I'm stocking plants gradually so i don't go too mad, easily done when looking online
Would you recommend a few fast growing stems for algae control? Nearly everything in the tank is a slow grower and the last thing i want is a problem

Thanks for the advice so far 👍


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## Hufsa (23 May 2020)

EA James said:


> Would you recommend a few fast growing stems for algae control? Nearly everything in the tank is a slow grower and the last thing i want is a problem



I know you didnt ask me but I would definitely recommend cramming as many stem plants as you can stand in there, you can always remove them later.
The more plant mass you have the more fiddle room you will have while you get things balanced out, and your slow growers will thank you because it takes some of the performance pressure off them, if that makes sense 

Im not an expert by any means but from what ive learned so far, you dont have to worry about increasing the lighting until you have ferts, CO2 and flow sorted out.

Maybe this is off topic if you were asking more about scaping in this thread


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## EA James (23 May 2020)

Hufsa said:


> I know you didnt ask me



Don't worry, I'll take all the advice i can get!! I've left a channel at the back behind the hardscape for some stems as i thought that would be the case. The more the better eh?!If they can be removed at a later date won't that allow algae to start though?

I'm already dosing ferts, Flow is sorted and co2 set up is on its way  I'll adjust the lighting as and when


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## Ray (23 May 2020)

EA James said:


> Don't worry, I'll take all the advice i can get!! I've left a channel at the back behind the hardscape for some stems as i thought that would be the case. The more the better eh?!If they can be removed at a later date won't that allow algae to start though?
> 
> I'm already dosing ferts, Flow is sorted and co2 set up is on its way  I'll adjust the lighting as and when



It's all anubias, crypts and valais!  My intuition is 75w will work just fine for them, with or without CO2.  Since you are using CO2 but have low light you could aim for 15ppm rather than 30 by using a 2KH drop checker solution.  This article by George Farmer is very good on CO2:  https://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/features/co2-striking-the-balance/


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## EA James (23 May 2020)

Ray said:


> It's all anubias, crypts and valais



At the moment yes but more plants are on the way, mostly 'easy' plants though so i'm guessing the lighting will still be sufficient? 



Ray said:


> by using a 2KH drop checker solution.



My KH  reads 8 on my test kit but on my water report it says it's a lot higher if i'm reading it correctly, would this mean i'd still use a 2KH solution? I need to read up more on this and try and get my brain to absorb the info!! (Easier said than done!)

Thanks for the link 👍


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## Ray (24 May 2020)

EA James said:


> At the moment yes but more plants are on the way, mostly 'easy' plants though so i'm guessing the lighting will still be



I think if you stay in Tropic’s “easy” category you have a good chance - easy carpeting plants my still be tough because of the water depth - we’ll see! I’d cluster them under the brightest parts of your tank.



EA James said:


> My KH reads 8 on my test kit but on my water report it says it's a lot higher if i'm reading it correctly, would this mean i'd still use a 2KH solution? I need to read up more on this and try and get my brain to absorb the info!! (Easier said than done!)
> Thanks for the link



The KH of your water isn’t important in this case. Your drop checker does not use tank water, you use a known KH of water in it (you can buy this or mix it or some CO2 kits will come with a small bottle) plus some PH reagent. CO2 diffuses from your tank into the drop checker to match the tank water concentration. The more CO2 in the water the more acid the water in your drop checker becomes and its PH changes from blue to green to yellow with lime green being considered “ideal”. If you use 4KH drop checker solution, lime green = 30ppm CO2. If you use 2KH then lime green = 15ppm. In a low light tank like yours 15ppm is an option as it will still boost growth but is less on the edge of what is safe for livestock and will use less CO2.

Worth making a cuppa and sitting down to George’s article to understand the theory. I expect there are plenty of YouTube videos that show how to set up a drop checker - if you see it done it makes more sense.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## EA James (24 May 2020)

Ray said:


> easy carpeting plants my still be tough



All the plants on the bottom are/will be crypts, anubias and buces so that should be fine, i don't want a carpet. 



Ray said:


> The KH of your water isn’t important in this case. Your drop checker does not use tank water



Right ok, that's good. Could i then do 50% 4dkh solution to 50% distilled water to bring it down to 2dkh? Does it work like that?



This is what i get with the set, this is I'm guessing the PH reagent not the water? 



Ray said:


> Worth making a cuppa and sitting down to George’s article to understand the theory


 
I've watched a few videos on YouTube from George but it takes a while for me to take it in, I'm finding everything a bit confusing!
Thanks for your help though, I appreciate it


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## Ray (24 May 2020)

EA James said:


> Right ok, that's good. Could i then do 50% 4dkh solution to 50% distilled water to bring it down to 2dkh? Does it work like that?


Exactly like that 



EA James said:


> View attachment 149094
> This is what i get with the set, this is I'm guessing the PH reagent not the water?


It says "Premixed 4DKH" on the bottle so it looks like they did the mixing for you already!
I am not sure what would happen if you diluted that with distilled water, so I guess it just means you can aim for a deep green not a yellow green.  When it runs out you can replace with a 4DKH solution and a PH reagent separately.  It will go further than 15ml will!


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## EA James (24 May 2020)

@Ray Top man, Thanks for all your help 👍


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