# How good is my water?



## rolexbene (11 Apr 2012)

I have just checked my local water report in hope of gaining some insight in to how my local water perimeters effect my tank and EI fertilisation, after looking at all the figures I feel a bit bewildered. Can anyone shed any light on what all these figures mean, and how they will effect my setup.
Thanks :idea:


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## rolexbene (11 Apr 2012)

*Water report*

http://www.thameswater.co.uk/water-qual ... eckham.pdf


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## ceg4048 (12 Apr 2012)

Hello,
       A review of your water report reveals that your water is hard. Other than that, the information is irrelevant within the context of EI dosing of a fuel injected tank. You need to ignore this data and dose in accordance with the EI dosing scheme found either here in the Tutorial section or wherever you have found the recipe.

Using a water report to per-determine EI dosing adjustments is just asking for trouble. EI is an interactive procedure which requires observation and adjustments based on the results of your observations and based on your goals and objectives. It has nothing to do with municipal data samples.

Cheers,


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## dw1305 (12 Apr 2012)

Hi all,


> I have just checked my local water report in hope of gaining some insight in to how my local water perimeters effect my tank and EI fertilisation, after looking at all the figures I feel a bit bewildered.


Looks like a lot of the water from S & E of the UK, conductivity 600microS ish, probably mainly calcium Ca2+ ions, as pH7.8 is where strongly carbonate buffered water ends up. To get to a "dKH" value from "Total Hardness as CaCO3 mg/l = 263", you need to divide 283/16.7 = 17dKH.

A fair amount of nitrates - 25ppm, and some ammonium - NH4+ 0.12ppm, also mention of "residual disinfectant", so probably disinfected with chloramine. Everything else fairly low.

As Clive says, fine for the planted tank, but probably not for keeping soft-water fish in (too hard), or if you kept Mbuna in a non-planted tank, where you would need to reduce the initial NH3/NO3 levels. That is one of the great advantages of growing plants, they will reduce NH3/NO2/NO3 levels very efficiently. 

You could reduce the amount of NO3 you add (the range of NO3 values through-out the years is low = 22ppm - 31ppm, suggesting domestic sewage as their source, rather than agriculture), but if you don't use KNO3 you will need an alternative potassium source (KCl etc.). 

I've never tried EI, but Clive says you can add as much NO3 as you like without any problem, so I would probably use the EI dosing scheme as is.  

cheers Darrel


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## rolexbene (14 Apr 2012)

Thanks guys very imformative, much appriciated.


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## dw1305 (14 Apr 2012)

Hi all,
I should also have said that the water probably naturally has very low magnesium levels, and that a high calcium/magnesium ratio can lead to problems with Mg+ ion uptake, so it might be worth upping the Epsom salts (MgSO4.7H2O) a bit.

cheers Darrel


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## sWozzAres (14 Apr 2012)

bear in mind your water report might be subject to change. at my previous address, hardness would change to a completely different value all of sudden, usually in the spring - as if they has changed the source, then later in the year it would change back


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## dw1305 (14 Apr 2012)

Hi all,


> bear in mind your water report might be subject to change. at my previous address, hardness would change to a completely different value all of sudden, usually in the spring - as if they has changed the source, then later in the year it would change back


I think the OP is fairly safe, the pdf shows min and max values over a whole year, and there wasn't any variation at all.

cheers Darrel


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## GHNelson (15 Apr 2012)

dw1305 said:
			
		

> Hi all,
> I should also have said that the water probably naturally has very low magnesium levels, and that a high calcium/magnesium ratio can lead to problems with Mg+ ion uptake, so it might be worth upping the Epsom salts (MgSO4.7H2O) a bit.
> 
> cheers Darrel


Hi Darrel
Say the ratio is 3 to 1.
How much MgSO4 would you need to make up to cover the deficiency.
I have similar water.
hoggie


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## rolexbene (15 Apr 2012)

hogan53 said:
			
		

> dw1305 said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Interesing I am dosing MgsO4 through EI, is this ok to make up the numbers or should i add extra?


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## dw1305 (15 Apr 2012)

Hi all,
It will probably be nearer to 30:1 Ca:Mg, but I don't think there probably is a set level. I'd use the dosing calculator at James' Planted Tank <http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/calculator.htm> to give me 10ppm Mg in the tank water.

If it is going to make any difference you should see a pretty quick greening response.

What ever formula it has on the container it will be the heptahydrate MgSO4.7H2O when you use it, because this is the stable salt and it will pick up atmospheric moisture until it is fully hydrated.

cheers Darrel


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## GHNelson (15 Apr 2012)

Hi Darrel
30 to 1 i never would have thought that.
I bet there's a few people as surprised as me  
Cheers for that.
hoggie


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## ceg4048 (15 Apr 2012)

You really do not need to worry about any ratios for aquatic plants. That will just get you into trouble. Life is complicated enough, and if you start chasing ratios instead of worrying about the fundamentals you will become a hamster on a wheel. Ratios are irrelevant as long as you do not fall below the deficiency threshold.

Cheers,


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## GHNelson (15 Apr 2012)

ceg4048 said:
			
		

> You really do not need to worry about any ratios for aquatic plants. That will just get you into trouble. Life is complicated enough, and if you start chasing ratios instead of worrying about the fundamentals you will become a hamster on a wheel. Ratios are irrelevant as long as you do not fall below the deficiency threshold.
> 
> Cheers,


Hi Clive
I'm not one for bothering about figures... but it gives a better insight as what water is coming out my tap.
I always add a little extra for good measure....my eyes are the best judge when it comes plant health.
Cheers
hoggie


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