# Not a clean slate, 200L



## jesperl.dk (29 Jan 2017)

Hi all

I am starting a tank after a break of more than 4 years. Not that I ever really got the hang of anything the last time I tried  I am new to Ukaps, but have chosen this place as my new favorite spot after the demise of the Danish site akvarieplanter.dk.

*Tank: Cheap AquaEl all glass*
Size: 100 x 50 (H) x 40 cm
Volume: 200 L
Stand is homebuild in ADA style

*Lighting:*
Two Hagen Glo T5 with each 2x39W, I use 2x840 and 2x865

*Filtration and flow:*
Eheim Pro 3 2075 with glass in- and out-flow from Aquasabi.de
Hydor Koralia nano 1600 for extra flow

*Heating:*
Hydor ETH 200W in-line heater controlled by a Hobby Biotherm eco

*CO2:*
2kg with Tunze regulator and Aqua Medic M-Ventil controlled by a Hobby pH-Control
JBL Proflora Direct in-line diffuser

*Doser:*
Aqua Medic Evo 4 Reefdoser

Most of this is reuse and have been taken out of storage after 4 years, however the two Hobby controllers and the Reefdoser are new. I like to make things automatic, but more important I like new gadgets 
I have in the last couple of days set it up for a “dry” run. Uh, I forgot how hard it is to prime the Eheim from scratch and how picky the CO2 regulator is, but I am slowly getting it set up and tuned in.




 







I will empty it tomorrow and then do the hardscape. When I am satisfied with that I will order the plants


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## nduli (30 Jan 2017)

Welcome on board. Love a tidy cabinet. Shame I can never achieve it.


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## ian_m (30 Jan 2017)

jesperl.dk said:


> I like to make things automatic, but more important I like new gadgets


Pah, that is not automatic, that is "gramophone Grandad" manual in my eyes.  (search YouTube for gramophone grandad reference).

This is automatic...
https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/how-to-use-a-plc-to-control-your-fish-tank.42993/

Oh, welcome as well....


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## jesperl.dk (30 Jan 2017)

ian_m said:


> Pah, that is not automatic, that is "gramophone Grandad" manual in my eyes.  (search YouTube for gramophone grandad reference).
> 
> This is automatic...
> https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/how-to-use-a-plc-to-control-your-fish-tank.42993/
> ...



Yeah, that will be where I end in a couple of years...


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## jesperl.dk (30 Jan 2017)

OK, today was the day to do the hardscape...

I am a bit hopeless with hardscape, aquascape, layout, whatever you call it. I love the amazing scapes you see in the books and at sites like this. I just don't feel like trying to copy any of them. Part of me just want to grow some plants and some other part of me want to dream up a nice layout of my own. But from my last (and only) try at that, I know I am no good at all going from some idea in my head to an actual good looking scape. Well, but here I go again.

I had some inner image of a landscape that kind of had got it self stuck pretty good on the inside of my head. I googled "tilted slate" and found this picture:


 

yeah, I bit like that. But could I do i? And will it work as a scape? Well, what the f..., I will just try...

I bought 15 kg of slate, but decided to do a simple cardboard muck-up to get an idea of the dimensions:




I wanted a steep cliff-side, and I would build it of a lot of smaller pieces of slate. That meant I would need to have something to hold the substrate. I cobbled some supporters up out of pieces of Plexiglas:




I am going to use Tropica Soil as substrate. Last time I tried a planted aquarium I used used gravel with some fertilizer tabs, but this time I wanted to try an upgrade, and Tropica is one of the few brands available where I live (both Tropica and my self are in Denmark ). But that stuff is expensive! So I used gravel below the plateau, and then Tropica Soil on top of that. I had at least 10cm of soil on top of the gravel.




Then first go at placing the slates. Uh, not easy... not quite like what I was hoping for.




Well I topped up with Tropica Soil Powder, and tweaked the positions of the slates many times. This is not going to win any prizes, but it is my scape 
One problem that I knew of is going to be fixed when I have water in the aquarium. There are some fine lines in the slate, that is not visible when they are dry, but is quite clear when they are wet. Actually they can bee seen in the photograph even though they could hardly bee seen with the naked eye. Well, the lines are in all directions, and will have to be tidied up bit later.




Tomorrow I am going to review my plant list, and then place an order. Looking forward forward to getting some plants in the aquarium


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## jesperl.dk (31 Jan 2017)

I have now ordered plants, but do not yet know when to expect them.

I was considering to ask for advice, it is not at all easy to select what to try. But I went ahead and did my order. I know that some will grow better than other, and that it is always easier to judge when it has been growing for a while. I also selected more different plants than I think I will end up with, and also selected many quite fast growing ones - some of this is expected to change when the aquarium gets more mature.

This is what I have ordered for:


 

When it is all (cross my fingers) growing I hope to get some suggestions for changing it for the better


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## Jakes (2 Feb 2017)

I like your slate wall idea!! I may have to nick that for my re-scape 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jesperl.dk (2 Feb 2017)

Jakes said:


> I like your slate wall idea!! I may have to nick that for my re-scape


I had a look at your journal, nice!  Looking forward for your rescape...


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## Doubu (4 Feb 2017)

Wow.. the level of preparation and follow through is just.. wow. Looking forward to seeing it all come together!


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## jesperl.dk (6 Feb 2017)

The plants arrived Saturday, but it wasn't until evening I could unpack and prepare for planting.

All plants was from Tropica, and most was 1-2-Grow plants. All was top quality, and I could actually had made do with a bit less. I got the plants form akvariebutikken.dk, and if you are from Denmark, I can only highly recommend them. You can order from the full Tropica catalog.




It was quite nice and easy to plant in the Tropica Soil Powder.


20170204-P2040006.jpg by Jesper Lauritsen, on Flickr

Water was added and the filter started late Saturday, so that was my day 1, but it wasen't until Sunday that I got the CO2 running and dosed the first fertilizer.


20170204-P2040018.jpg by Jesper Lauritsen, on Flickr

Now I am just waiting for some of it to grow a bit


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## GHNelson (6 Feb 2017)

Very Nice Indeed!....
I like the way you have configured the rock work!
Keep us posted
hoggie


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## PARAGUAY (6 Feb 2017)

Superb attention to detail,plants chioce good too


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## jesperl.dk (8 Feb 2017)

It is now day 5, and it looks pretty good.


20170208-P2080004.jpg by Jesper Lauritsen, on Flickr

I have growth for most of the plants.


 

 



I have light green growth for several plants, and I would guess that means I am a bit low on ion. I think I'll increase my micro and actually increase all macro as well. I does daily, and do 50% water change every day, so I would think I am safe even if some values are a bit high.
Please let me know what you think!? 

My glosso is reaching for the light, so I would think I should rise the amount of light, at least at the front.
Until now I had light like this:
1 hour at the the front lamp only (50%), then
3 hours both lamps (100%), then
2 hours at the back lamp only (50%)

I will raise that to:
1 hour at the the front lamp only (50%), then
5 hours both lamps (100%), then
1 hour at the back lamp only (50%)
Please let me know what you think!? 

I am tuning in on my CO2 level. My checker has been greenish all the time, but I have had some swings in my number of bubbles and my CO2 level, and I was a bit low the last day or so.
I am not yet using my Hobby CO2-controller. I want to make sure it is measuring ok (the call is still out on that). But also, the Tropica soil should change the pH in the first weeks, so I am not sure the usual formula holds here in the beginning. I don't think the pH has changed much, though.


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## Daveslaney (8 Feb 2017)

Looking good.As you have no fish or shrimp in the tank yet i would turn you co2 up untill you get a yellow drop checker and as the small lady in poltergeist said Do not be afraid of the light.
This should get your Glosso to carpet well.


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## Eduard18 (8 Feb 2017)

Hi there ! Nice equipment ; Tropica rules ! Their range 1-2-Grow is top of the top ; but I must tell you that your plants, full grown, will completely hide your rocks


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## Eduard18 (8 Feb 2017)

and use tropica step by step start up guide! it's extremely effective ! check it on their website !


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## jesperl.dk (9 Feb 2017)

Daveslaney said:


> Looking good.As you have no fish or shrimp in the tank yet i would turn you co2 up untill you get a yellow drop checker and as the small lady in poltergeist said Do not be afraid of the light.
> This should get your Glosso to carpet well.


Yeah, will do  I have confidence in your advice even if it includes small ladies and poltergeist.
Many postings here and ukaps and elsewhere talks about the fear of light, but my limited previous experiences included quit a lot of light, and with a fast growing glosso carpet as result (other things were not quite as good ).


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## jesperl.dk (9 Feb 2017)

Eduard18 said:


> ... ; but I must tell you that your plants, full grown, will completely hide your rocks


Yeah, I kind of know that. Almost changed it a bit before planting, but decided to wait and see how it turns out before changing any rocks. Also, I have my scissors ready .


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## jesperl.dk (9 Feb 2017)

Eduard18 said:


> and use tropica step by step start up guide! it's extremely effective ! check it on their website !


I like to be a bit more hands on and to experiment a bit more than in the Tropica step by step guide - not that I think it will bring me better results, it is just more fun 
I am more inspired by 





Ed Seeley said:


> *Setting up a 'higher' tech planted tank*


, supplemented with what I picked up here and there. Like not being too afraid about the light even though many will try to scare you  This is also in line with what I did when I tried a planted aquarium 4-5 years ago. I did have some limited success then, but got to busy with other things to keep up on pruning, water change, dosing, etc etc. That is the problem with the "hich tech" approach, you can not look away for too long...


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## Eduard18 (10 Feb 2017)

I have nothing against experiments , it's just I think it's easier to experiment once you got off on the right foot


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## AnhBui (10 Feb 2017)

Having looked at your plant list I would say most of them are fond of strong light except crypts and ferns. It's okay to keep light low at first week imo. In the 2nd week going forward you might want to keep both lamps on 6 hours without break


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## jesperl.dk (13 Feb 2017)

It is now day 10, and mostly it is looking good. Mostly I have good growth and no algae, and a lot of nice pearling.




 

 

 

 (sorry for the un-sharp pictures).

The glosso is still reaching a bit to much for the light. I am at 6 hours full light and an extra hour with the front light only. I did today discover that the back-most tube was not fixed properly and was off, so total light is now increased with 33% - but don't think it make much of a difference for the glosso in the front.

I am more concerned that new growth still is a little light in color. I think it is better than it was in the very beginning where you might remember I increased my dosing, but still do not look right. Especially my Pogostemon erectus is very pale. It is the first time I try this plant, so I am not sure how it will usually look. In real life it is even lighter than at the picture above. What do you think?

I dose with a target of:
NO3: 23 ppm/wk; PO4: 4 ppm/wk; K: 28 ppm/wk; Mg: 10 ppm/wk
I dose a 7th of that each day. I use Rexolin for mico, but I do not know how common that is in this forum. I does it somewhat above the usual recommendation. I still do 50% change of water every second day.

My Pogostemon helferi has not grown much yet, but I I remember it was a slow starter when I tried it 4 years ago. My crypts look very sorrow and like they are going to break down and melt all together, but I am patient there. Everything else have good growth. It is fun being back in this hobby


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## xim (13 Feb 2017)

The pics are not available. But I think new growth from newly planted (and newly trimmed) plants looking pale is normal. It's not because there are not enough ferts. Their food gathering organs (roots, leaves) are not well developed and not quite enough to feed new buds well enough. They should look better, giving them time. Or you just up the ferts now and later you see them growing better and think it's because of the overdosing.

There is no info about micros. But for macros, you're right now feeding the plants EI level which can cover even a highlight, full of plants (I mean really full that fish nearly don't have space for swimming), tank. Not to mention that the substrate you use is already rich with nutrients.


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## jesperl.dk (13 Feb 2017)

xim said:


> The pics are not available. But I think new growth from newly planted (and newly trimmed) plants looking pale is normal. It's not because there are not enough ferts. Their food gathering organs (roots, leaves) are not well developed and not quite enough to feed new buds well enough. They should look better, giving them time. Or you just up the ferts now and later you see them growing better and think it's because of the overdosing.
> 
> There is no info about micros. But for macros, you're right now feeding the plants EI level which can cover even a highlight, full of plants (I mean really full that fish nearly don't have space for swimming), tank. Not to mention that the substrate you use is already rich with nutrients.



Sorry about the pics. Is that the same for everybody?

Makes a lot of sense what your are saying. Thank you! You have convinced me to both take it easy and to lower my ferts a bit


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## Zeus. (13 Feb 2017)

jesperl.dk said:


> Is that the same for everybody?



No pics here too


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## tim (13 Feb 2017)

Yep no pics visible.


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## jesperl.dk (14 Feb 2017)

I don't understand why the pictures are not visible, also because they are visible for me when I browse anonymously from some other computer.

I used Flikr BBCode sharing just like with my previous posts, does anybody have any insight in how that can go wrong?

Here is a shared link to one of the pictures: https://flic.kr/p/Rw3Nd5 - could somebody please try that and let me know if it works? https://flic.kr/p/Rw3Nd5

Also, I try a Flikr BBCode again:


20170213-P2130009.jpg by Jesper Lauritsen, on Flickr
Can you see a picture above?

And with an url in the forum editor:


 
Can you see this second picture?


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## dw1305 (14 Feb 2017)

Hi all,





jesperl.dk said:


> 20170213-P2130009.jpg by Jesper Lauritsen, on Flickr
> Can you see a picture above?
> 
> And with an url in the forum editor:
> ...


Yes and yes.

cheers Darrel


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## TomatoandEgg (14 Feb 2017)

Love the use of slate in that way. Havent seen that before


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## jesperl.dk (14 Feb 2017)

dw1305 said:


> Hi all,Yes and yes.
> 
> cheers Darrel



Thanks! Totally strange - I did exactly the same as yesterday. Well, here are the other 3 pictures that should have been with my post from yesterday.



20170213-P2130005.jpg by Jesper Lauritsen, on Flickr


20170213-P2130004.jpg by Jesper Lauritsen, on Flickr


20170213-P2130003.jpg by Jesper Lauritsen, on Flickr


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## jesperl.dk (14 Feb 2017)

TomatoandEgg said:


> Love the use of slate in that way. Havent seen that before



Thanks!  Yeah, I like that I came up with that myself, and I do think it is not bad at all - buuut, I am not going to reuse slate in that way another time


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## jesperl.dk (18 Feb 2017)

I am now on day 14, and mostly it is looking good. I added 6 ottos and 6 shrimp yesterday, and it is fun to see something swimming around - except they don't swim much 

I installed a Chihiros Doctor II some days ago. It seems a bit like magic, but now I try it. I also here in the beginning do a daily dose of EasyCarbo. I will try to stop using both the Chiniros and the EasyCarbo in a few weeks time. The ottos and the shrimp are there to stay 

Some days I have  some surface film, and that always causes the CO2 level to go up. I have ordered an air pump, and will try to set that up to run at night.

Most of the plants are growing, and are starting to look nice. The cryps look like they are fast dying, but I guess I should just be patient there.

I more wonder about my Staurogyne repens - it is not really growing, and it does not look well at all:




What do you think??


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## MarkyP (18 Feb 2017)

looking good - a interesting aquascape, I'll be watching with interest as it grows in


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## xim (18 Feb 2017)

New growths from newly planted (or trimmed) plants can look a bit bad initially. But they should look better as time passes. If they become worse, I think there is a problem.

I've never keep Staurogyne repens but they look like they need magnesium or iron (yellowing between veins in new growths), probably magnesium because the new soil should provide enough iron and you're dosing micro ferts too (do you?) They look like they are melting too? I used to keep Heteranthera zosterifolia, it would suddenly melt out of the blue from time to time until I added Epsom salt 35.6 milligrams/litre (equals to 3.5 PPM of magnesium) a week after every waterchange.

I also would try moving one of the Staurogyne to the brightest area, just to test if it is because the light.


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## jesperl.dk (18 Feb 2017)

xim said:


> New growths from newly planted (or trimmed) plants can look a bit bad initially. But they should look better as time passes. If they become worse, I think there is a problem.
> 
> I've never keep Staurogyne repens but they look like they need magnesium or iron (yellowing between veins in new growths), probably magnesium because the new soil should provide enough iron and you're dosing micro ferts too (do you?) They look like they are melting too? I used to keep Heteranthera zosterifolia, it would suddenly melt out of the blue from time to time until I added Epsom salt 35.6 milligrams/litre (equals to 3.5 PPM of magnesium) a week after every waterchange.
> 
> I also would try moving one of the Staurogyne to the brightest area, just to test if it is because the light.



Thanks!
Yes, some of the other plants didn't look so good the first 10 days or so, but are much better now. In general I have quite little experience, but I have tried Staurogyne repens before, and I remember it growing really nice in conditions very similar. And yes, they are now also melting 
I dose both micro and macro in fairly high doses. My Mg calculations are however based on the data from my local waterworks which says I have quite a lot of Mg in my tap water, so I add fairly little. I will wait a few more days, and then try to up my Mg.
In the mean time, I will right away try to move a couple of the S. repens to a more sunny spot.

Thanks again for your advice and your thoughts!


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## jesperl.dk (19 Feb 2017)

I moved a couple of my S. repens to a very sunny spot. They had developed a lot of roots and in that sense did seem sound. But they are melting 

5 of my 6 new ottos died over the first 2 days  I am going to talk to my LFS tomorrow. There were dead ottos in the tank where I bought them, so I should probably not have bought any. It is however generally a good LFS and there are not that many places around here where they have ottos.
By the way, how many ottos and Amano shrimp would you recommend for 200L?


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## xim (19 Feb 2017)

For a fresh new tank with minimum algae, I would follow the lowest number of Amano shrimp from Tropica's guide (http://tropica.com/en/guide/algae-control/) which is 1 per 15 litres or 13-14 for your tank. Personally I've not found Oto cats doing much on algae but they are very cute. 6-7 should be OK.


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## CooKieS (19 Feb 2017)

I find that s.repens are quite difficult to adapt and grow, mine is doing better since I add more NPK and Magnesium, but I lost 90% of it the first months...can't see why tropica classified it as an 'easy' plant?!


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## Shinobi (19 Feb 2017)

Hej Jesper
Ville bare sige at jeg følger med i dit projekt i spænding - og at det er rart at høre lidt fra andre landsmænd i hobbyen. Handler selv i akvariebutikken så vi er nok ikke så langt fra hinanden 
Har du forresten selv bygget underskabet?


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## jesperl.dk (20 Feb 2017)

Shinobi said:


> Hej Jesper
> Ville bare sige at jeg følger med i dit projekt i spænding - og at det er rart at høre lidt fra andre landsmænd i hobbyen. Handler selv i akvariebutikken så vi er nok ikke så langt fra hinanden
> Har du forresten selv bygget underskabet?


Hi Shinobi

I reply in English since were are at ukaps  

I live in Farum - fell free to write for a visit, if your know you are going to be in the neighborhood.

Yes, I have made my own cabinet. I wrote an article about it at http://www.akvarieplanter.dk/diy-ada-style-skab-i-sort-mdf - it is in Danish, but has lots of pictures 

I was already watching your journal, even though I didn't realize you were Danish - looking real nice so far 

Best, Jesper


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## jesperl.dk (20 Feb 2017)

CooKieS said:


> I find that s.repens are quite difficult to adapt and grow, mine is doing better since I add more NPK and Magnesium, but I lost 90% of it the first months...can't see why tropica classified it as an 'easy' plant?!


I did grow S.repens quite nicely 4 years ago in pretty much the same setup, and according to my log from then, I am also dosing pretty much the same.
But it sure looks like some deficiency. Perhaps the water from the waterworks has changed its level of Mg. I know for sure they now have lower KH, so there might also be lower Mg. I can not see that in the official measurements from the waterwork, but they also did not show the change in KH.
I will wait some more days, and then try to up the dosing. You know, I am trying to act slowly and only change on thing at the time, even though the instinct it just to act right away  - Xim, thanks for all your advice!


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## dw1305 (20 Feb 2017)

Hi all, 





jesperl.dk said:


> Perhaps the water from the waterworks has changed its level of Mg


 The plants look like they may be deficient in magnesium (Mg). I'd try dosing some more MgSO4.7H2O.

Magnesium is mobile within the plant, so they should green up pretty quickly. 

cheers Darrel


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## jesperl.dk (22 Feb 2017)

It is now day 18, and time for a photo.


20170222-P2220026.jpg by Jesper Lauritsen, on Flickr

In a few days it is time for a first little trim and thinning  Some larger rock some of the places are needed and I have ideas for some different plants a few places - but I wait a little longer with all that.

My S. repens are no better . I dosed some extra Mg for the first time yesterday, and will keep dosing extra in the following days.


xim said:


> There is no info about micros. But for macros, you're right now feeding the plants EI level which can cover even a highlight, full of plants (I mean really full that fish nearly don't have space for swimming), tank. Not to mention that the substrate you use is already rich with nutrients.



I am currently dosing for a target of NO3: 18, PO4: 3, K: 20 and Mg:10 ppm/week, dosed with 1/7 each day. this is upper end of the usual EI recommendation. As I wrote earlier I am basing my calculation of how much MgSO4 to add on the high levels (11ppm) that my local waterworks reports for Mg in the tap water. That might not be a correct figure, and then I might be low in Mg - so it feels ok to try to raise it.

But how are my levels? I actually had a PO4 test kit laying in the cupboard from 4 years ago when I last tried a planted aquarium. Don't think I ever used it then - I am not really a friend with any of these test kits 
I measured when it was 4 days since the last water change. So in that period I had dosed 3/7*4=1,7 ppm on top of what was left after the previous 50% water change. I measured 1-2 ppm at that time.
I measured again after a 50% water change, and then PO4 was 0,5-1 as expected.
Shortly after that my doser did the usual dosing, and after that PO4 was 1-2 as expected (roughly 0,75+3/7 = 1,2).

The measurements are not precise enough to be conclusive, but I would say that the plants currently use at least half, and surly not all of what I am dosing. That is ok, and that indicates that I should be ok with P and probably also with N and K. Only Mg and micro is open. So I change (only) Mg for now.


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## xim (22 Feb 2017)

jesperl.dk said:


> But how are my levels? I actually had a PO4 test kit laying in the cupboard from 4 years ago when I last tried a planted aquarium. Don't think I ever used it then - I am not really a friend with any of these test kits
> I measured when it was 4 days since the last water change. So in that period I had dosed 3/7*4=1,7 ppm on top of what was left after the previous 50% water change. I measured 1-2 ppm at that time.
> I measured again after a 50% water change, and then PO4 was 0,5-1 as expected.
> Shortly after that my doser did the usual dosing, and after that PO4 was 1-2 as expected (roughly 0,75+3/7 = 1,2).
> ...



Phosphate can end up in the substrate. It can be precipitated/bound with other cations. Tom Barr has compared the amount of nutrients in new ADA Amazonia vs the same soil after 18 months of use and found higher phosphate in the old soil. He thought it was from KH2PO4 he had dosed.


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## Doubu (24 Feb 2017)

Again, very impressed by the amount of research/dedication - especially with the dosing. I never bothered because it seems complicated (and I don't have the mental capacity at the moment), but maybe that's the reason why I killed so many plants in the past doing trial by fire haha.


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## jesperl.dk (5 Mar 2017)

Had some busy days, but here is an update.

Here is day 28:



20170303-P3030035.jpg by Jesper Lauritsen, on Flickr
Definitely time for a trim, specially the glosso grows like, really fast.

I did a trim and some thinning, and on day 29 i added 10 Melanotaenia praecox (dwarf/neon rainbowfish) - I like them a lot, but they are still too shy to get their photo taken.


20170305-P3050063.jpg by Jesper Lauritsen, on Flickr
The colors are not good in my photos - one of these days I will try to find a better color correction.

A few more snaps:


 

 

 

 

Most plants are growing really well, and there is no sign at all of any algea at all - so I have to feed my shrimps and ottos 
The crypts are finally starting to grow some small new dark brown leaves - that's good for they were looking real sorrow.
The S. repens I am not sure about. They are not worse and they are not much better. I was dosing high Mg for more than a week without much change, so I have backed down on that again.

I will wait for the crypts and perhaps also the S. repens to settle a bit before I do some changes to they layout. Definitely need some contrasting tones... (although the greens are more varied in real life than on the photos). Suggestions are welcome


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## tim (6 Mar 2017)

The scape is really coming along nicely Jesper, http://tropica.com/en/plants/plantdetails/Alternantherareineckii'Mini'(023CTC)/4439 could be a good replacement for the staurogyne, adding some colour contrast but staying low,
http://tropica.com/en/plants/plantdetails/Hygrophila'Araguaia'(051BTC)/4758
Would look good mixed into the glosso carpet nice red/brown contrast to the bright green glosso, really enjoying your journal so far.


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## jesperl.dk (6 Mar 2017)

tim said:


> The scape is really coming along nicely Jesper, http://tropica.com/en/plants/plantdetails/Alternantherareineckii'Mini'(023CTC)/4439 could be a good replacement for the staurogyne, adding some colour contrast but staying low,
> http://tropica.com/en/plants/plantdetails/Hygrophila'Araguaia'(051BTC)/4758
> Would look good mixed into the glosso carpet nice red/brown contrast to the bright green glosso, really enjoying your journal so far.


Thanks, great suggestions. I'll think about it  
I think I am also going to replace part of my Hygrophilia Siamensis and Totala rotundifolia with something more colorful, to make the Pogostemon erectus stand out some more.
And some small Buce on the cliff, I think.

I havn't shown many photos of the right side - the aquarium is placed so it is mostly seen from the left side, but still more should be done there. Now it is java fern in the back and crypts in the middle. Still thinking about what to do...


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## Shinobi (7 Mar 2017)

That is one clean tank Jesper, looks stunning. How you keep that algea at bay is simply amazing - ím currently experiencing thread algea all over the place - and at day 20 im really not sure whether to start dosing or not


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## jesperl.dk (7 Mar 2017)

uh, I dosed from day 1! And quite high levels. Lots of water changes as well, of course, but I am down at every 4th day now.

My biggest inspiration has really been: https://www.ukaps.org/index.php?page=setting-up-a-higher-tech-planted-tank
Yesterday I discovered the guides at Aquasabi, and it has lots of good info as well, for example: https://www.aquasabi.com/aquascaping-wiki/nutrients/fertilization-during-the-cycling-phase

I would say, you should start dosing right away  Perhaps adding som more fast-growing stems temporarily would be a good idea as well. 

Also I add EasyCarbo each day (about 2ml/100l), and will keep at that until all is stable.
With the approach of the guides above you will usually cycle with low levels of everything and can then add shrimps already after a couple of weeks.

but, but, but. I have tried this once before, and know that suddenly the algae may hit  Mostly I put my faith in lots of growth


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## Christos Ioannou (7 Mar 2017)

Hi its a lovely looking tank! 
Especially rotala rotundifolia (day 28 before trim pic) is having that sought for orange color, looks great.

I am on day 100+ with ada soil, systematic EI dosing [20ppm NO3, 30ppm K,  5 ppm PO4, 10 ppm Mg] 30ppm co2 but my r. rotundifolia (also from Tropica) is refusing to color up  and looks a bit messed up. However rotala sp. green is doing much better. 

I too agree on the alteranthera recommendation should provide a great contrast.

Do you have any idea about par readings in your tank?


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## Shinobi (8 Mar 2017)

jesperl.dk said:


> uh, I dosed from day 1! And quite high levels. Lots of water changes as well, of course, but I am down at every 4th day now.
> 
> My biggest inspiration has really been: https://www.ukaps.org/index.php?page=setting-up-a-higher-tech-planted-tank
> Yesterday I discovered the guides at Aquasabi, and it has lots of good info as well, for example: https://www.aquasabi.com/aquascaping-wiki/nutrients/fertilization-during-the-cycling-phase
> ...



I see. Are you dosing both micro and macro? Also I heard that easycarbo would kill my Fissidens, so I have refrained from that


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## jesperl.dk (8 Mar 2017)

Shinobi said:


> I see. Are you dosing both micro and macro? Also I heard that easycarbo would kill my Fissidens, so I have refrained from that


Yes both micro and macro. I started with probably something like 2/3 of the upper end of the EI range of targets. I then tweaked it a bit going forward, both by testing some actual levels, by looking at my actual growth, and then by reading and asking questions 
I don't know about easycabo and Fissidens...


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## jesperl.dk (8 Mar 2017)

Christos Ioannou said:


> Hi its a lovely looking tank!
> Especially rotala rotundifolia (day 28 before trim pic) is having that sought for orange color, looks great.
> I am on day 100+ with ada soil, systematic EI dosing [20ppm NO3, 30ppm K, 5 ppm PO4, 10 ppm Mg] 30ppm co2 but my r. rotundifolia (also from Tropica) is refusing to color up  and looks a bit messed up. However rotala sp. green is doing much better.


Thanks 
The rotundifolia is looking even better with the new growth after the trimming - I will post a new photo later.
I dose pretty much like you do. How about your micro?
I measured my Fe before trimming and it was 0,1-0,2 three days after my last water change - so the plants was not using everything I dosed, but quite a lot of it. The micro of course contains much beside Fe (and several kinds of Fe, very hard to get a grasp on), but I can only measure Fe. Anyway, I upped my dose of micro by 50%. I do think that not only the rotundifolia but also several of the other plants now after 3-4 days are looking better. Of course I don't know if that is because of the micro or just because they had more time to grow and adapt... 



Christos Ioannou said:


> Do you have any idea about par readings in your tank?


Have a look at https://ukaps.org/forum/threads/par-and-other-stuff-just-for-myself.48910/


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## Christos Ioannou (8 Mar 2017)

jesperl.dk said:


> Thanks
> The rotundifolia is looking even better with the new growth after the trimming - I will post a new photo later.
> I dose pretty much like you do. How about your micro?
> I measured my Fe before trimming and it was 0,1-0,2 three days after my last water change - so the plants was not using everything I dosed, but quite a lot of it. The micro of course contains much beside Fe (and several kinds of Fe, very hard to get a grasp on), but I can only measure Fe. Anyway, I upped my dose of micro by 50%. I do think that not only the rotundifolia but also several of the other plants now after 3-4 days are looking better. Of course I don't know if that is because of the micro or just because they had more time to grow and adapt...
> ...


definitely a read when I go home. 
cheers

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk


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## jesperl.dk (8 Mar 2017)

Shinobi said:


> Also I heard that easycarbo would kill my Fissidens, so I have refrained from that


Have a look here: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/33-plants/782450-fissidens-fortunas-excel.html
I wouldn't be afraid of it - I really don't see how it should harm the Fissidens?? But I have no personal experience at all!


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## jesperl.dk (8 Mar 2017)

day 33:


20170308-P3080008.jpg by Jesper Lauritsen, on Flickr


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## jesperl.dk (14 Mar 2017)

day 39.
All is growing now. The S. repens are slowly picking up and the crypts are finally getting new submersed leaves.

I did a trimming today after leaving it alone for 11 days.



Better not think to much about what the plants costed initially when throwing this in the garbage 

I am also now on a full week between water changes, and all still looks good. There are finally a very small sign of algae: some spots in the tube from the in-flow. In a strange way this almost makes me at ease - it was almost magical that I had absolutely no sign at all of algae or even diatoms until now.

I did some testing today with the test kits I have:
NH4/NH3: ~0,3 ppm
NO2: 0 ppm
NO3: ~10 ppm
PO4: ~0,8 ppm
Fe: ~0,5 ppm
KH: 9 from the tap
pH is about 7,1 when CO2 has been on for some hours, and about 7,3 from the tap

I dose 1/7th of the following each day:
NO3: 14 ppm
PO4: 2 ppm
K: 15 ppm
Mg: 5 ppm (I have a lot in my tap also)
Micro: for Fe 0,7 ppm

I also dose 2ml/100L EasyCarbo (almost) each day
Light is currently on for 8 hours, and I am slowly going to increase it to about 9h/day.

I am going to rescape a bit real soon now, but it feels good to first get the hang of trimming what I have, and also to let the crypts get a little larger.


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## Doubu (14 Mar 2017)

Wow... that is a long light period along with very little algae issues, very impressed - everything looks so healthy!


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## jesperl.dk (21 Mar 2017)

What is happening to my Rotala rotundifolia??

I did a trimming a week ago like I have done several times before. Previously the rotundifolia started growing right away and was looking nice in a few days.

But now it looks like this:


 

All new leaves are very small and transparent. Looks like the little new growth that has been is melting.

Everything else is growing very nicely. My dosing has been stable for some time now, and water change is every week.

Only thing is I did have a minor CO2 swing over the week. My regulator is a bit temperamental, I will guess I usually is at about 20-25 ppm in the light period, but for some days I was probably down at 10, and then up at 30, before again getting stable. I wouldn't think that is critical, and everything else is fine.

Hope somebody can tell me what might be going on


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## jesperl.dk (30 Mar 2017)

A short status at day 56.

My R. rotundifolia started growing again 10 days after the trimming. A few stems did not stop the growth, and grew >10cm in these days while most did not grow at all. Strange, but back to normal again.
Actually all was growing well, and the problem now is to learn how to trim enough and at the proper time  A lot was getting way, way to big!

I got 8 more Neon dwarf rainbow fishes, and now have 18 - I like them a lot. That means a lot more debris and I now get a little bit of GSA on the front glass, otherwise all is still well.

Well, I did a major trimming today, removed most of the Hygrophilia 'Siamensis 53B', moved around a bit, and added some A. reineckii 'Pink', some A. reineckii 'Mini' and a little Hygrophilia 'Aragauia'. I will post a picture in a few days when it hopefully have started to grow a little .


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## Shinobi (30 Mar 2017)

Looking forward to the pictures


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