# Removing the legs twinstar 600s



## newscaper (8 Dec 2018)

I’m slowly building my equipment up to the point that I should have quite a high spec setup. 

I’ve sourced a twinstar 600s but my tank size is 80cm so I’m going to suspend the light. 

600sp or sa were my first choices as either setup to suspend or adjustable legs to fit however the 600s I have purchased was such a good price I couldn’t refuse. 

Have received delivery yet so my question is has anyone removed the legs on a 600s and if so was it fairly straightforward? 

I’ve see a couple of pictures of 600s’s with legs removed but none of how to do it. 

I hope it’s fairly easy but won’t know until it arrives. 

My plan is to use a kessil gooseneck to hang the light (I have already done this with my 2 x fluval aquasky’s). 

May even use 2 x goosenecks to spread load and add stability. 




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## zozo (8 Dec 2018)

They come in 2 versions, the stand and the pendant. I'm not sure if the pendant end caps are available as spare part. Looking at the pictures it's a mater of simply screwing it off/on.

Pendant end cap






Stand end cap







Tho not sure about the end with cable entry, if it is interchangable part or a fixed version model.. But it looks definitively screwd.

An e-mail to ADA maybe?


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## Daveslaney (8 Dec 2018)

Was thinking along the same lines to do the same with mine. Only had a quick look at doing it will look deeper into it soon, The legs just screw off with the Allen keys by the look of it. Was thinking of making some perspex triangular shaped end caps to hang the light from these. The problem as said above is the end where the cable goes through into the unit. Without taking the unit apart how easy the cable will be to get out if it is soldered in or screwed in( I suspect the former to be honest)without ruining the end cap altogether is hard to say.


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## newscaper (8 Dec 2018)

Daveslaney said:


> Was thinking along the same lines to do the same with mine. Only had a quick look at doing it will look deeper into it soon, The legs just screw off with the Allen keys by the look of it. Was thinking of making some perspex triangular shaped end caps to hang the light from these. The problem as said above is the end where the cable goes through into the unit. Without taking the unit apart how easy the cable will be to get out if it is soldered in or screwed in( I suspect the former to be honest)without ruining the end cap altogether is hard to say.



Yes I can see the plug wire being an issue. I found the image below so maybe possible. I will contact twinstar however I’m sure they won’t be too keen on me modifying the unit! . I’ll have a good look when it arrives. 




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## zozo (8 Dec 2018)

newscaper said:


> Yes I can see the plug wire being an issue. I found the image below so maybe possible. I will contact twinstar however I’m sure they won’t be too keen on me modifying the unit! . I’ll have a good look when it arrives.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Take a look at the Aquamedic Aquafit 2 
https://www.aqua-medic.de/index.php?r=catalog/product&id=275&cid=50

As long as you have 2 screws symetricaly placed at each end of the light, than it is pretty universal applicable to hang a wide range of lights.
No need to DIY anything else than take a screw out and use the same or if necessary a longer screw and sccrew the pendant to the light.

It also isn't that expensive, i bought it a few years back for € 20,- via a German webshop.

Another option is, you actualy have it allready..  Unscrew the stands and by the looks of it they are symetrical, you might just be able to turn them 180° and screw them back upside down. And screw or fix the steel wire pendant to the legs that point up now instead of down..


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## newscaper (8 Dec 2018)

zozo said:


> Take a look at the Aquamedic Aquafit 2
> https://www.aqua-medic.de/index.php?r=catalog/product&id=275&cid=50
> 
> As long as you have 2 screws symetricaly placed at each end of the light, than it is pretty universal applicable to hang a wide range of lights.
> ...



Great suggestions thank you. I have some ideas to work with now. Perfect. 


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## Nick Norman (8 Dec 2018)

I have the 600SA which i replaced the legs with acrylic triangles. The SA has 4mm rods for legs that just slide in and out of holes in the end. I just got some 4 mm studding and tapped the acrylic so the studding went into the holes in the end of the light with a mouse hole over the wire. I have access to laser cutters and table saws at work which is quite handy. 

On the S version you may be able to replace the Allen bolt with longer ones to attach acrylic or something to the ends.


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## Daveslaney (8 Dec 2018)

You can certainly undo the screws and turn the legs upside down wirhout a problem. Then maybe build a wooden shade and paint it to cover the legs and make it look right?
Would look a bit odd with the legs stuck up in the air otherwise.


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## newscaper (8 Dec 2018)

Daveslaney said:


> You can certainly undo the screws and turn the legs upside down wirhout a problem. Then maybe build a wooden shade and paint it to cover the legs and make it look right?
> Would look a bit odd with the legs stuck up in the air otherwise.



That’s exactly what I’m hoping to do! 

I will use twin kessil goosenecks to suspend from rather than the ceiling though as the missus would have a fit if I hung from the ceiling even though it’s neater and more practical. 

I don’t have the ability to cut Perspex, or at least not neatly so I’ll get in touch with a local plastic supplier I know of and see if he can cut to spec. 


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## zozo (8 Dec 2018)

newscaper said:


> I don’t have the ability to cut Perspex, or at least not neatly



It depends on the thicknes, up to 4mm you can cut with a stanley knife and break off same as you would cut glass. Thicker you need a saw, best is a sharp wood saw. That stuff is pretty soft and it cuts pretty easy.. With a bit of steady hand and knowing how to handle a hand saw you can get a long way. 

Few years ago i made this one on the kitchen table with a hand saw and a cordless dril.




For polishing cut marks you can use verry fine grained water proof sand paper. Polish it wet.. Or use a little flame torch to flame polish.


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## newscaper (8 Dec 2018)

zozo said:


> It depends on the thicknes, up to 4mm you can cut with a stanley knife and break off same as you would cut glass. Thicker you need a saw, best is a sharp wood saw. That stuff is pretty soft and it cuts pretty easy.. With a bit of steady hand and knowing how to handle a hand saw you can get a long way.
> 
> Few years ago i made this one on the kitchen table with a hand saw and a cordless dril.
> 
> ...



My dads a carpenter by trade so I will see if he fancies a go. 

I like the way you created the hanging bracket. Did the perspex do ok with the heat from the light? 


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## zozo (8 Dec 2018)

newscaper said:


> Did the perspex do ok with the heat from the light?



Pretty good, the led strips didn't heat up much higher than 40°C.. But it still did bend a bit about 1mm.. Little desing flaw, the screws to attach the alu led profiles are a bit to far from the sides. took 10 cm from the side, should have been maybe 3 cm and 1 extra in teh centre.. A lesson learned for the next build.. 



newscaper said:


> My dads a carpenter by trade so I will see if he fancies a go.


I bet its penauts for him. Acrylic is softer than hard wood.


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## Ricardo Romão (14 Dec 2018)

newscaper said:


> I’m slowly building my equipment up to the point that I should have quite a high spec setup.
> 
> I’ve sourced a twinstar 600s but my tank size is 80cm so I’m going to suspend the light.
> 
> ...




Hello,

They look similar, but the 600SP has a different aluminium body than the 600S, so it's not possible to change it.

In the other hand, you would lose the warranty.

For any doubts please email us.

All the best,
Ricardo


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## Andrew Butler (14 Dec 2018)

If you are willing to void the warranty you can make new ends out of aluminium and get a 'Y' style hanging kit.


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