# First Low Tech.



## zanguli-ya-zamba (29 Oct 2013)

Hi members,

how are you all ??
Since I have received my NA tank, my 25 G is sitting in the living room empty.
I wanted first to sell that complete DIY tank, because having two tank was a lot of work. But than I started thinking about Lowtech that is work but less than a hightech.
I have a lot of fern (needle, trident, normal) annubias (petite, nana, congensys) , hygrophilia polysperma (normal and sunset), higrophilia corymbosa, some crypts, bacopa, and some mosses. A nice choice of plant for a nice Lowtech hehe. My idea is to do a scape with the kinsuka rocks, and some nice wood that will add height and I will put some fern on it. the rocks will have some anubias on it. I only miss a foreground plant ????

So I am calling you all Lowtech Gurus to help to achieve a nice lowtech.
So here is the set up I have to achieve that :

- Tank : 50x45x45 Cm 25 G
- Filter : Fluval F305 with ADA Lily pipe and gush on flow
- Light : (need help) For now I have a DIY light with 2x36 w Dymax tropical, Bulbs are independent.
- Ferts : I have some dry ferts + some ADA step 1 step 2 and low light.
- Substrate : (need help ) Here is one of the main issue. 

ISSUES :

Light : So I have a pending style light with 2x36 w I am sure that 2x36w is too much for a low tech !
		   I can use only one bulb, what do you think ? From how far I need to hang the light with 1x36 w	 for a 25 G tank in low tech ? Will 1x36w will not be too strong ? I know that watt per gallon rule is a bit archaic, but it is giving me 1,44 W/G.

Substrate : So here is where I am a bit lost. I know that with a small water column dosing I will need a rich substrate. So here is list of what I have and what I can find here, to prepare a good substrate. 
I have 8 L of used ADA amazonia (1 year ), I have some JBL nutri balls (16 balls), PENAC P.
What I can easily find here, some clean and fresh grey clay (in Nsele river bed), I can have some laterite, some black earth, sand.
My Only problem is that 8 L of aquasoil will not be enough for that tank ! I can still put a good layer of sand on the bottom to raise the soil and than add the ADA on top ?! 

Filtration : Will I need to put some ceramic noodles for bacteria support ? 

So you my plan guys, hope you will help me on this members.

Thanks 
Zanguli


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## Tim Harrison (29 Oct 2013)

Is the light a T5? If so I reckon even one bulb would still be a bit too strong, but if it's a pendant you could just raise it to experiment with optimum light intensity.
Filter is fine I think that will give you 10x flow, which I use.
Fertz - as a rough guide I'd use the equivalent of 1/5 - 1/10 EI.
Substrate - if it were me I'd just use 1:1 aquatic compost and peat moss capped with sand etc, but if you feel like experimenting with leftovers, go for it...it's all part of the fun.
Good luck...


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## zanguli-ya-zamba (29 Oct 2013)

Troi said:


> Is the light a T5? If so I reckon even one bulb would still be a bit too strong, but if it's a pendant you could just raise it to experiment with optimum light intensity.
> Filter is fine I think that will give you 10x flow, which I use.
> Fertz - as a rough guide I'd use the equivalent of 1/5 - 1/10 EI.
> Substrate - if it were me I'd just use 1:1 aquatic compost and peat moss capped with sand etc, but if you feel like experimenting with leftovers, go for it...it's all part of the fun.
> Good luck...


 
Hi Troi,
how are you doing mate ?
Thanks for your answer.

The lights are Power Compact 36 w with reflector (medium good reflectors), I don't know how high I can raise the lights I think it could be : substrate from water 40 cm + water from light (highest) 30 cm so a total of 40+30= 70 CM . but I will check tonight to be sure.

Thanks for the tip for the ferts. how often do you dose the ferts ? 

For the substrate, I can't find aquatic compost here in Congo hahaha. Can you explain me what is peat please ? 
So what would be the advices for substrate as I can't find any compost or garden premix soil here ? Only what nature gives me and small things I have from buying a JBL CO2 kit and from previous traveling. 

My hear and my eyes are open to your advices guys 

thanks again Troi.
cheers


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## zanguli-ya-zamba (29 Oct 2013)

I really wish to start that tank asap, like I have all the plants the wood the rock the lights ... I only miss the substrate  
Hope to have feed back soon members.

cheers


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## OllieNZ (29 Oct 2013)

What you've got sounds fine anything will do in a pinch. If I recall correctly you live in the congo? maybe a trip to the country side and get a few scoops of that lovely rich red soil we so many pictures of.


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## zanguli-ya-zamba (29 Oct 2013)

I was just thinking about something, the grey clay that is in the Nsele river is "multi layer" there is a 15 cm layer of clean clay, than there is a 5cm layer of dead leaves and organically matters in decomposition, after that organically layer there is an other 15 cm layer of clean clay, after there is an other dead leaves layer, and on and on for one meter.

So my question is do you think that it could be a good idea to use that layer of organically matter in decomposition for a low tech substrate ?

regards


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## Tim Harrison (29 Oct 2013)

That sort of height should give you plenty of options to experiment with the right light intensity.
As for fertz most of what you need to know is in the tutorial...it all depends really on plant density...my low-energy tank is densely planted and a similar size to yours - I use 1/5 - 1/10 recommended dose of TNC Complete per week after water change - and this works well...but it's in addition to the nutrients in the soil of course.
Peat - Peat - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia - But your own mix sounds like it might work well...You could also add some organic material if you like, but use caution when introducing critters just in case there is something in it that doesn't totally agree with them.


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## zanguli-ya-zamba (29 Oct 2013)

OllieNZ said:


> What you've got sounds fine anything will do in a pinch. If I recall correctly you live in the congo? maybe a trip to the country side and get a few scoops of that lovely rich red soil we so many pictures of.


 
Hi Ollie,
yes I will ask one of my truck to take me a small bag of red soil (laterite) from Kwilu Ngongo (185 KM from Kinshasa)
I just think that I need an organic layer, this layer will decompose and produce CO2.

cheers mate


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## OllieNZ (29 Oct 2013)

As was being discussed in this thread Maxing CO2 in Low Techs | UK Aquatic Plant Society Oxygenation is key as without it you wont get decomposition but in order to effectively oxygenate you will end up bringing your co2 into equilibrium with the atmosphere so lose the co2 benefit of the decomposition.


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## zanguli-ya-zamba (29 Oct 2013)

Troi said:


> That sort of height should give you plenty of options to experiment with the right light intensity.
> As for fertz most of what you need to know is in the tutorial...it all depends really on plant density...my low-energy tank is densely planted and a similar size to yours - I use 1/5 - 1/10 recommended dose of TNC Complete per week after water change - and this works well...but it's in addition to the nutrients in the soil of course.
> Peat - Peat - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia - But your own mix sounds like it might work well...You could also add some organic material if you like, but use caution when introducing critters just in case there is something in it that doesn't totally agree with them.



Hi troi,
Having advices from a guru low tech is very nice thank you very much. 
I will try the mix, if you say that I can have result with that. So should I put first the clay ( I will dry it than crush it in small part 1 cm) after that I put penac P, JBL balls, I top all this with a good layer of sand ? On top of this I put the ADA aquasoil ? Should I clean and dry the aquasoil under the sun or I can use it wet ? 

Thanks


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## Tim Harrison (29 Oct 2013)

I can't say I've used any of those ingredients in that order so your guess is as good as mine...but I'd be inclined to mix the clay, sand and organic matter together and lay it about 2cm at the front sloping to about 5cm at the back, and cap with ADA aquasoil, or more sand. The aqua soil will be fine wet...although the tank water may take a little longer to clear.


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## zanguli-ya-zamba (30 Oct 2013)

Hi guys,

So I have found a plans and would like a feedback on it please

Substrate:

Mix of fresh grey clay + Volcanic sand + jbl balls + sand --- on top of that I can add a good layer of denerele Deponit mix, --- and top every thing with aquasoil. 

*Grey clay *: I can find sticks of grey clay that have been already bake. Should I use *fresh or bake one* ? I think fresh would be better, but would like your advice

*Volcanic Sand* : A friend of mine who have a lowtech at home bring this sand from Goma (eastern Congo) this region is the volcanic region of Congo and the most fertile part of the country. His tank have only this sand as substrate and the crypts, echinodorus, and hygros that he have in it are very happy and not showing signs of deficiency (tank is running for 1 year now). This sand is very very fine size and if you uproot a plant it will cloudy the water, so I think it could be better to mix it with the clay at the base of the substrat where it will be protect by the Deponit Mix.

*JBL Balls *: will bring longterm ferts for the substrate 

*Sand *: this will help better circulation of water in this layer, and also to have a less compact layer for better roots penetration (hope so haha)

*Deponit Mix* : When I buy my old tank the guys gave me 6 L of this and I have never used it. I will use it to top the base layer with clay ect... This layer will give ferts support a bit, but will also prevent the base layer to go allover the substrate. I think also It will help plant to establish their roots, with the porous material of deponit mix. Maybe it can help also the have less cloudy water when uprooting some plants. 

*Aquasoil *: As it is a used aquasoil (1 year) I will be using it for aesthetic and for easy planting. Aesthetic because I will use Kinsuka rock (light brown and yellow) it will give a nice contrast with the dark aquasoil. 

I want to say that all statement I have write are simple guess and hope that if am doing wrong some one will correct me ! 

Thanks you guys for your time hope to have feedback.

best reagards

Zanguli


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## Tim Harrison (30 Oct 2013)

Sounds fine...I'd use fresh clay. I'll be interested to see how this develops.


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## zanguli-ya-zamba (30 Oct 2013)

Troi said:


> Sounds fine...I'd use fresh clay. I'll be interested to see how this develops.


 
Hi thanks, hope it will develop well. Do you think that in the mix base I should add 1,5 tea spoon of KNO3 and 1/4 tspoon of KHPO4 when mixing ?? 

I will proceed with all this this week end I think.

regards


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## zanguli-ya-zamba (30 Oct 2013)

Do you think that I still need to add a very little amount of organic matter in decomposition, that I can find or in wetland or in the grey clay ?


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## zanguli-ya-zamba (30 Oct 2013)

ha and an other thing. Tap water in Kinshasa is the same as Congo River water. No Mg and no Ca in the water. the GH is less than 1° same for Kh. Should I add two spoon of MgSo4 and 1 spoon of CaSo4 in the soil. Or I will just add once every two or three weeks a small amount in the water column ? 

sorry to disturb you with a lot of questions
cheers


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## Tim Harrison (30 Oct 2013)

I don't think there will be any need to add any more fertz to the mix. The greater part of the soil I use is peat so it contains lots of partially decayed organic matter...adding some should be ok as long as its from an unpolluted source. As for the GH booster...it could be an idea, but I'll defer to Darrell on the details...


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## zanguli-ya-zamba (1 Nov 2013)

Hi Troi,
my friend who have a farm near and on the wetland of Congo congo river, is digging pond in these wetland for tilapia production. He told me that, when he was digging, after a meter of digging in vegetal matter he start to reach water. After digging more he start to see a layer of very decomposed vegetal matters that looks like peat. So I asked him to bring me a bag of this. Yesterday I went to his home and he gave me two bag of different type of this soil. 
After seeing it I can tell that it is not peat, but black earth with vegetal decomposition matter, it is like good soil.
The first type is black earth with vegetal fibers and decomposed leaves.
The second type was under that first layer, and have less vegetal matter in it.
This wet land is an old wetland. It is cover by tree and small tree. I want precise that the part where he is digging is only flooded by the river's water only when there is a huge increase of water level of the river ( so I think around every 10 years or more). 
So I wanted to know if you think that this could be use in aquarium for the base of substrate ?? 

My Truck will bring me tomorrow some fresh grey clay from Nsele river I will take a picture of it.

here is a picture of the two different soil.


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## zanguli-ya-zamba (1 Nov 2013)

On the right the first layer with vegetal fiber. 
On the left the soil that was under the first. 






Cheers


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## zanguli-ya-zamba (1 Nov 2013)

It is still full of water because they have dig it yesterday.


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## Tim Harrison (1 Nov 2013)

Hi Zanguli the pic is broken, but it sounds like a hydric soil of some sort...and could be what you're looking for...definitely worth a go, but as always proceed with caution when introducing critters.


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## zanguli-ya-zamba (1 Nov 2013)

Troi said:


> I








Hope it world. 

When you talk about critters, you are referring to shrimp ? If it is the case, there no chances ! We don't have a shop that sales shrimp here.  

Cheers


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## Tim Harrison (1 Nov 2013)

Soil looks good - not that dissimilar in appearance to my own mix...critters = everything animal inc fish.


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## dw1305 (1 Nov 2013)

Hi all, 





Troi said:


> Soil looks good


 I tend to agree with "Troi" I think it should be fine.

cheers Darrel


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## zanguli-ya-zamba (6 Nov 2013)

Troi said:


> Soil looks good - not that dissimilar in appearance to my own mix...critters = everything animal inc fish.





dw1305 said:


> Hi all, I tend to agree with "Troi" I think it should be fine.
> 
> cheers Darrel


 
Hi guys,

thanks for your answer !! 

Darrel I was wondering, as I live in a very soft water area (tap water same as Congo river water), should I put some MgSo4 and some CaSo4 in the soil mix ? 
Should I do something special to my lowtech when I live in soft water area ?
M Darrel, do you think the shape of my tank will be a big disadvantage in gas exchange, to optimize CO2 tank is 50X45X45 cm ?

thanks for your advice Darrel
regards

All,
I went to the pond last week to see what plants I have for that lowtech. I was very surprise to fond all my Anubia Nana, from my previous scape, and there is a looooot of it  .
That's a great news, I have also see a looot of microsorum (different type) from my previous scape, so this is a great news also hehe. that is only a small part of the plantsI have that can suit lowtech requirement. I am very happy because I have a lot of choice to do what ever I want, even a Stauro carpet. 
I really need to set up this tank, but I lack some times to do it, work + other tank + dirt bike ....I hope to do it this week end or next week, because after that I off for 5 days to an other part of the country for an international dirtbike race.
We keep in touch

cheers


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## dw1305 (6 Nov 2013)

Hi all,





zanguli-ya-zamba said:


> Darrel I was wondering, as I live in a very soft water area (tap water same as Congo river water), should I put some MgSo4 and some CaSo4 in the soil mix ? Should I do something special to my lowtech when I live in soft water area ?


 You don't really have to do anything different, your local fish and plants will be adapted to very soft water. If you did want to add some dGH/dKH the magnesium sulphate will go straight into solution, so you would need to add it to the water column, rather than the substrate. You could add "dolomitic limestone" to the substrate, and that would add Ca++, Mg++ and some dKH, I'm not sure how easy it would be for you to obtain in the Congo. Calcium sulphate (powdered and either as gypsum or "plaster of paris") is fairly insoluble, so it would be a long term calcium source, but wouldn't supply Mg or any dKH.

If you can get both "Epsom salts" (MgSO4.7H20) and broken shell (as "chick grit?") that would be the easiest option. You could add a fairly minimal amount of broken shell to the substrate. 





zanguli-ya-zamba said:


> M Darrel, do you think the shape of my tank will be a big disadvantage in gas exchange, to optimize CO2 tank is 50X45X45 cm ?


 I think you would need to have more water turn-over than Alastair or Tom does to increase the gas exchange surface. If you aren't to worried about CO2 levels you could use an over-tank trickle filter to ensure high levels of oxygenation.

What about a slightly lowered water level and some emersed plants like "Hydrophyte's" ripariums <Mangrove Forest - 245L Brackish Riparium | UK Aquatic Plant Society>, and just feed the filter return through the planting caddies.

cheers Darrel


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