# New pond edging advice



## Franks (5 Jul 2018)

hi all,

Ive cut through existing flags and filed then round and smooth at the edges so the liner isnt cut but im now wondering how I might get the best finish installing the liner with regards to the edging stones being laid? I think i might use a stone cobble mat and cut singular sections from it on a bed of concrete as that will act as a perimeter for stones not being pushed into the pond. Im not sure if the rubber liner being visible will look untidy though?

Has anyone any other ideas with the following pond? Its 8ftx4ft and 2.5ft deep at its max. I may also reshelf the inner and have the centre as the deepest point.

Any ideas welcome!


----------



## Franks (12 Jul 2018)

I think i made a mistake with that one and wasted two weekends! I got nervous of the wall foundation and have since back filled the pond! Doh!

Im going to relocate to a different part of the garden at the side of a lawn near some shrubs. 

I now have some more questions.
Whats the best depth for. Shubumkin only pond? Im in the UK so the top water column is likely to freeze. Would just over 2ft be enough? Im thinking around 8ft by 4ft again. Looking at Shubumkin care, they can grown up to 18inch. Would a pond of this size be adequate for the fish to thrive?

Thanks


----------



## mort (12 Jul 2018)

Hi franks, 2ft is the standard minimum I see quoted over here but I'd go a little deeper if you can, 30 inches or so as it allows a little extra should you get a layer of detritus on the bottom. A site near the house will hold some warmth and reduced the time it freezes for.

18" might be possible for a shub but I'd be surprised if any grew over 12" and think that would be large for one. I have goldfish in a pond bigger than your planning and they haven't got that big. I believe filtration and water quality is more important provided they have enough space, which they should have. I think they could thrive in your proposed pond but I wouldn't add more than 6-8 as that'll give them lots of space and they will likely breed and up the numbers in a year or two.


----------



## Franks (12 Jul 2018)

Excellent, thanks. 

I will build a slightly deeper region for dormancy in the Winter. 

I’m looking forward to the prospect of building yet another pond but with a grass and rocked verge in mind - especially since my liner/underlay hasn’t gone to waste!

I’m lucky that the electrics can simply be spurred off the existing outlet since it’s a fused spur and with nothing labouring the power.

Thanks again for your advice 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## foxfish (12 Jul 2018)

I found a way to make a nice pond edging, there are some pictures here.... https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/nice-pond.12645/


----------



## tam (12 Jul 2018)

Having a deeper area rather than making the whole thing as deep is probably more practical. Our pond is split in half front to back, with the back about 2.5' and the front about 4' (but we do have koi too). Around 2-3' is usually quoted for winter survival - I'd go 2.5' just to be not right on the minimum. I would think an adult size of 6-8" is more realistic. I'd bet the 18" is probably a record rather than an average.


----------



## frederick thompson (13 Jul 2018)

3 feet minimum. For the fish to get away from the cold.
I had 2x 2 foot koi with hypothermia 
This winter. Had to net them and put into my qt. Growon 500 gallon tank to save them. With heat.
I personally would go 4 feet.
At least half the pond. 
Fred


Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk


----------



## mort (13 Jul 2018)

I completely agree that deeper is often better. In my pond I have 4ft + now because like Fred I had problems with low temperatures and some of my koi got carp pox during the winter as it wasn't deep enough. It is situated quite far from my house though so might suffer from colder temperatures than if it was near the house. It does now have decent coverage all around it with some trees for shelter so that helps to. We also went deeper as we had a visitor from one of the local broads, who had a taste for fish.
We have several depths of water, a shallow planting level all round, a deep planting level on one side plus a basking area (shallow sloped area that is good for wildlife to get in and out of) and a deep central area where the pump sits and a chimney pot provides some cover.


----------



## frederick thompson (13 Jul 2018)

i forgot to add my pond is 6 feet deep. and two still got hypothermia. i wonder how many more would have got hypothermia if it had been shallower.
also most of my koi are Israeli koi and i had a couple with carp pox. Israeli koi carry this more then jap koi. cold weather brings it out. also maturity helps it go away. and when the weather warms up it
can go away. which has happened with my 3 koi this year. there is no cure for carp pox  it just goes on it s own.


----------



## tam (13 Jul 2018)

Are yours part raised? I would guess that makes a difference to temperature too as below ground is presumably better insulated than above ground sections.


----------



## mort (13 Jul 2018)

tam said:


> Are yours part raised? I would guess that makes a difference to temperature too as below ground is presumably better insulated than above ground sections.



I think having it raised does reduce the temp a bit as does a bottom drain pulling cooler water from the top down to the bottom. I turn my pump off in winter but many run them continuously but raised off the bottom.


----------



## Franks (13 Jul 2018)

mort said:


> I think having it raised does reduce the temp a bit as does a bottom drain pulling cooler water from the top down to the bottom. I turn my pump off in winter but many run them continuously but raised off the bottom.



I’m building mine with that in mind. Lower shelf pump running for winter and pond floor for summer. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## frederick thompson (13 Jul 2018)

tam said:


> Are yours part raised? I would guess that makes a difference to temperature too as below ground is presumably better insulated than above ground sections.


Mine is raised 3 feet above and 4 feet below ground. With 2x lamenated windows. I run everything all year round. 2x15000lt pumps. And 2x airpumps. Also 2x 55wat uv. I run all year round. 24/7.
Plus blade waterfall




Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk


----------



## frederick thompson (13 Jul 2018)

Franks said:


> I’m building mine with that in mind. Lower shelf pump running for winter and pond floor for summer.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Both my pumps are dry pumps.
Outside pond in my pump filter house. In a koi pond if you have them in the pond all they do is mash the muck up. And you then get lots of fines. That stay in the pond.Plus you have to clean them alot. While dry pumps you do not touch them plus the muck goes into the rotary drum and right down the drain and not back to the pond.
Its all about what you want out of this great hobby.



Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk


----------

