# New member, my scape



## Simes (12 Jan 2019)

Hi. Here is my first aquascape. Any recommendations on plant positioning welcome. The glass needs a bit of a clean and a general tidy up needed.


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## Tim Harrison (12 Jan 2019)

Nice shallow. My only recommendation is perhaps think about introducing more plants. The heavier you can plant from the outset the better, since it infers greater system stability, which in turn reduces the chances of algae, and increases your chances of success.


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## Simes (12 Jan 2019)

Sure ok. I’ll order some more. I was going to have some floating plants and mosses. Happy to receive recommendations on types of plants you think would suit this environment


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## The Accidental Aquascaper (12 Jan 2019)

Small thing, but the wire at the back could do with being hidden. Told you it was small!

Also, why is there a two tone thing going on in the background, is it the light?


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## Simes (13 Jan 2019)

The Accidental Aquascaper said:


> Small thing, but the wire at the back could do with being hidden. Told you it was small!
> 
> Also, why is there a two tone thing going on in the background, is it the light?


Haha yes I noticed that and tidied it up . I think the two tone was caused by a shadow. I have more plants on the way to try and cover up a few eye sores. I’ve also put more water in and cleaned the glass. Going to put a few Pygmy corys in the tank in a few weeks


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## Keith GH (13 Jan 2019)

Simes

I fully agree with Tim you require a lot more plants as it looks very open and bare at the moment.

Keith


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## The Accidental Aquascaper (13 Jan 2019)

Simes said:


> Haha yes I noticed that and tidied it up . I think the two tone was caused by a shadow. I have more plants on the way to try and cover up a few eye sores. I’ve also put more water in and cleaned the glass. Going to put a few Pygmy corys in the tank in a few weeks



Cool, will be interesting to see what plants you add. Pygmy Corys aren’t a show stopper, but they’re on my list for the simple reason they’re super cute and very active.


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## Tim Harrison (13 Jan 2019)

They are nice little fish. If you haven't already, give some thought to introducing a clean up crew as well; otos and Amanos


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## dw1305 (13 Jan 2019)

Hi all,





Simes said:


> Sure ok. I’ll order some more. I was going to have some floating plants and mosses. Happy to receive recommendations on types of plants you think would suit this environment


Floating plants are always a good idea, and mosses are great plants for long term scapes.

Hornwort (_Ceratophyllum_ _demersum_) is a good plant for start-ups. You don’t often see it for sale, because you have to grow it submerged (although it doesn’t need to be planted), and it doesn’t travel very well, but once you’ve got it growing it is great.

Cheers Darrel


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## Simes (13 Jan 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> They are nice little fish. If you haven't already, give some thought to introducing a clean up crew as well; otos and Amanos


I’m a bit worried about over stocking. I’m currently waiting for the tank to be more established for the less hardy species. I currently have 5 zebra danios in my 80cm long shallow tank. 60 litres in total. What other fish do you reckon I could get away with? As suggested I’m adding another bunch of plants including floaters. Not switching my lights on until I feel there are enough plants in there to avoid algae


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## Tim Harrison (13 Jan 2019)

Most folk with planted tanks tend to under stock. It keeps organics relatively low which helps prevent algae. And because algae issues are usually foremost on our minds the clean up/algae crew is usually first on the list.

You need to switch your lights on, otherwise your plants will die and release organics and you will definitely get algae. Establish a regular photoperiod of around 5-6 hrs a day to start with, just be cautious regarding intensity. Every light is different but I usually set intensity to around 60%, maybe less over a low-energy tank, until the scape becomes biologically mature. A dimmer is a must, especially with a low-energy tank.


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## Simes (13 Jan 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> Most folk with planted tanks tend to under stock. It keeps organics relatively low which helps prevent algae. And because algae issues are usually foremost on our minds the clean up/algae crew is usually first on the list.
> 
> You need to switch your lights on, otherwise your plants will die and release organics and you will definitely get algae. Establish a regular photoperiod of around 5-6 hrs a day to start with, just be cautious regarding intensity. Every light is different but I usually set intensity to around 60%, maybe less over a low-energy tank, until the scape becomes biologically mature. A dimmer is a must, especially with a low-energy tank.


Righto. Lesson learned


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## Simes (13 Jan 2019)

Also, I’m liking the look of the otos, but I read that amanos tend to be fragile and die after water changes. Can you advise on this? If I have 8 zebra dorios, 5 Pygmy corys, 5 otos is that overstocked do you reckon?


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## Tim Harrison (13 Jan 2019)

Amanos are pretty much bullet proof...the internet can be a minefield of misinformation...do you have the ref or link for that info ?


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## Simes (13 Jan 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> Amanos are pretty much bullet proof...the internet can be a minefield of misinformation...do you have the ref or link for that info ?


I’m sorry I can’t remember where I read it. It was a few days ago now. Could have even been YouTube


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## Tim Harrison (13 Jan 2019)

Simes said:


> Can you advise on this? If I have 8 zebra dorios, 5 Pygmy corys, 5 otos is that overstocked do you reckon?


That should be fine, so long as you maintain good tank husbandry etc...


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## dw1305 (13 Jan 2019)

Hi all,





Simes said:


> Not switching my lights on until I feel there are enough plants in there to avoid algae


Do you have the lights on at all?

If you don’t? You need to have them on for a short photoperiod every day.

Plants can only photosynthesise when light intensity exceeds “<light compensation point”>. When they don’t get high enough energy light they just slowly decline.

Cheers Darrel


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## Simes (13 Jan 2019)

Thanks for the advice. I have a time so I shall put the lights on for six hours a day for now. I was thinking 3 hours in the morning (timed to help wake me up) and 3 in the evening? Is that ok or is a straight 6 hours better? Cheers


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## Tim Harrison (14 Jan 2019)

The siesta period is a bit of a contentious issue. In a low-energy tank it's perhaps better to leave the light on and ensure decent surface agitation and flow to maintain a decent atmospheric gas exchange. That way not only do you increase 02 saturation but also a constant CO2 conc., which maybe better for plant growth and algae inhibition...https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/maxing-co2-in-low-techs.29856/ However if a split photoperiod suits your lifestyle or viewing time then I don't think it'd hurt...


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## Simes (16 Jan 2019)

An update after adding more plants -


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## Simes (16 Jan 2019)

Simes said:


> An update after adding more plants -



I’ve kind of put things in random hoping for a natural look. Do you think the plants should be grouped up more?

When I put Amanos in I think they only time I will see them is on the way home from the fish store


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## Keith GH (17 Jan 2019)

Simes

I would leave it as it is for at least one month then rethink about adding more plants.   Re your inhabitants it requires small colourful fish or shrimps.

Keith


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## dw1305 (17 Jan 2019)

Hi all, 





Simes said:


> I’ve kind of put things in random hoping for a natural look. Do you think the plants should be grouped up more?





Keith GH said:


> I would leave it as it is for at least one month then rethink about adding more plants.


I'd just leave them grow for a while as well. 

Some <"will do really well"> and some less well, once they've grown you can start propagating the ones you like or the ones that have grown well etc. In the mean time take of any dead, or obviously unhealthy leaves, other than that just let it grow. 

I like regular small volume <"water changes">. 

You can either use the <"Duckweed Index"> (basically health and leaf colour of a floating plant) to add nutrients, or you can regularly <"add a fraction of the EI fertiliser rate">.

cheers Darrel


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