# DIY wood



## Neil EFC (13 Mar 2018)

I have seen people create backgrounds using cement to cover polystyrene which got me wondering wether it would be possible to get any wood(such as non safe) from a local forest and dunk it in cement and apply the same method as the diy backgrounds. Not sure if this is a crazy idea or if anyone has tried it but would be happy on everyone's thoughts in this.


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## foxfish (13 Mar 2018)

I have come across folk who have built polystyrene or expanding foam backdrops & covered them in certain types of tile cement. Normally epoxy based and inert when cured, this method I popular in vivariums but. I cant say I have come across anyone using Portland cement. I don't think that is a good idea as it will leach lime and salt for many months or even years.


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## Edvet (13 Mar 2018)

You would have to dry it and seal it before using the cement.The cement goes on in quite a thick layer and has to be sealed also.So you wouldn't see a lot of the wood.
Many people use PVC pipes and distort those with hot air and construct trees/branches like that before covering those with cement.
Here in the netherlands tiling glue/cement is used most often.


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## Goose157 (13 Mar 2018)

Hi, is it possible , to use dead standing would?? How would you treat/prepare it?? 
I mean as is, not coated in concrete- 
Cheers


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## Edvet (13 Mar 2018)

I don't know what you mean with dead standing wood? You mean a dead piece of tree? Still standing?
If it's oak and dead long enough it should work. Here in holland we used to only use dead bogwood, because that was cheap (preserved by long time submerged in humins). Oak is expensive and long living so there wasn't a lot of dead oak around.
Hard woods will work when dead long  enough because all easy rotting parts are gone ( as are the sugars, starches,  etc).


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## Goose157 (13 Mar 2018)

I meant when the tree dies but is still attached the tree, sorry for my poor explanation... where I live there are many areas where ‘dead’ wood is available but I am un sure how , if safe todo so I could use in my tank.... thanks for the reply


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## Edvet (13 Mar 2018)

Well you can chuck a piece in a pond or tub for a year and see how it comes out, pressure wash it to remove soft spots and the remains can be used.


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## Goose157 (13 Mar 2018)

Thanks.... best get some bog wood and was it then ... don’t want to wait a year!!! Lol cheers


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## Edvet (13 Mar 2018)

You can do both if you see some nice pieces.


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## Goose157 (13 Mar 2018)

I am going to have a look this weekend hopefully- there are many streams  and lakes near my home ! So I might find something suitable to clean up and use cheers


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## Gill (13 Mar 2018)

Goose157 said:


> I am going to have a look this weekend hopefully- there are many streams  and lakes near my home ! So I might find something suitable to clean up and use cheers



Let me know what you find, still getting used to south derby. so interested in knowing some nice places to explore


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## Goose157 (13 Mar 2018)

Hi Gill, I live on the back of Shipley country park... some decent wLks around there!!! I will let you know what I find cheers


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## PARAGUAY (13 Mar 2018)

Using cement is risky too many issues in a aquarium , you could cheat a little with a Juwel 3d background with wood glued to it. I think Oliver Knott did something similar in a demo


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## Angus (13 Mar 2018)

Concrete can work in a tank, look at the tank on this video with all concrete rocks.


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## Barbara Turner (17 Mar 2018)

If you still are thinking about polystyrene and cerment I saw a great brick wall affect that sat behind the tank.


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## Andrew Butler (13 Feb 2019)

Digging up an old thread.................
I have a large void in the middle of a piece of wood.
I could drill a few holes but then it still leaves the void to get nasties in so need to fill it in.
Any ideas about the best product? - whether that be a tile adhesive, cement, 2 part acrylic

Thanks
Andrew


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## Andrew Butler (13 Feb 2019)

Also considering trying to mix some HA6 silicone with some gravel but think this will be a bit buoyant, more than a bit messy and not so easy to break air pockets and fill the void as a cement/tile adhesive.


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## foxfish (13 Feb 2019)

Epoxy mixed with wood dust would be good but if you don’t have any to hand it is pretty expensive depending on the size of the hole.
Silicone mixed with wood dust might give you a better colour than plain silicone, you can buy brown or black silicone although it might have an anti mould additive.
There are quite a few epoxy based tile adhesives but not cheap unless you have a really big hole to fill.


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## dw1305 (13 Feb 2019)

Hi all,





Andrew Butler said:


> I could drill a few holes but then it still leaves the void to get nasties in so need to fill it in.


You don't need to fill it in. Just scrape any soft wood out of it. 

I have lots of bits of wood with central voids. 

cheers Darrel


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## Andrew Butler (13 Feb 2019)

foxfish said:


> Epoxy mixed with wood dust would be good but if you don’t have any to hand it is pretty expensive depending on the size of the hole.
> Silicone mixed with wood dust might give you a better colour than plain silicone, you can buy brown or black silicone although it might have an anti mould additive.
> There are quite a few epoxy based tile adhesives but not cheap unless you have a really big hole to fill.


It is quite a large void so I know it needs filling.
Colour isn't the issue as it's at the bottom of the piece aside from a few small channels from the void to the outside; no photo to hand.

Acrylic / Apoxy costs a fortune so would rather avoid this route - there's probably 300-500ml of void to fill.

Bont-it HA6 silicone I know to be 100% aquarium safe and have a bit of clear laying around I know is still okay although probably not enough so will get a bit more.
As the colour doesn't matter I'm thinking maybe the idea of mixing a paste up with some gravel or sand will probably be the safest option for me.

Thinking about using a syringe to inject the paste into the cavities. hmmmmm



dw1305 said:


> Hi all,You don't need to fill it in. Just scrape any soft wood out of it.
> 
> I have lots of bits of wood with central voids.
> 
> cheers Darrel


just got your post Darrel,
There are a few places the main void has channels through to the outside of the wood and can just see the shrimp loving it in there and making a mess I can't get at easily.
The wood is also floating still after around a month of soaking, even when I have filled the upper void with water so there was no air trapped.
Could do with some weight in there to help things along too I think.


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## dw1305 (13 Feb 2019)

Hi all, 





Andrew Butler said:


> There are a few places the main void has channels through to the outside of the wood and can just see the shrimp loving it in there and making a mess I can't get at easily.


It doesn't matter, even if you have xylophagous fish (like _Panaque_ spp.) that process a huge amount of wood it isn't actually very polluting. 

It is to do with the, <"BOD concept">, basically wood is almost entirely composed of structural carbohydrates with a very high carbon to nitrogen ratio. Hard wood is almost entirely lignified, and lignin is extremely resistant to decay. 

cheers Darrel


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## Andrew Butler (13 Feb 2019)

dw1305 said:


> Hi all, It doesn't matter, even if you have xylophagous fish (like _Panaque_ spp.) that process a huge amount of wood it isn't actually very polluting.
> 
> It is to do with the, <"BOD concept">, basically wood is almost entirely composed of structural carbohydrates with a very high carbon to nitrogen ratio. Hard wood is almost entirely lignified, and lignin is extremely resistant to decay.
> 
> cheers Darrel


Hey Darrel,
I'd meant more their waste.


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## dw1305 (14 Feb 2019)

Hi all, 





Andrew Butler said:


> I'd meant more their waste.


That's it, the little pellets the shrimps produce are pretty much the inert matter left that they can't derive any more nutrition from. 

The shrimps like the void (it offers cover) and will pick at any fungi or softened wood.

There will be some ammonia continually diffusing from their gills, but the shrimps will contribute little to the bioload, because the detritus and algae they are feeding on has very little in the way of sugars and proteins. Proteins are metabolised to ammonia, sugars will promote bacterial growth and both these processes reduce levels of oxygen. 

That is where the BOD concept is really useful when you add an organic decor item (wood, leaves, seed pods etc) to the tank. I would research any suggestions of toxicity, but after that you just have to think about the sugar and protein content. If you aren't sure, you can look at rates of decomposition. 

There is a much more complete explanation in the PlanetCatfish <"Wood for Tanks"> link.

cheers Darrel


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## Andrew Butler (14 Feb 2019)

dw1305 said:


> That's it, the little pellets the shrimps produce are pretty much the inert matter left that they can't derive any more nutrition from.


Thanks for the info Darrel,
On account the wood has been soaking for a month and is still just like a bouyancy aid I think i might still pack the main part of the void vith a silicone/gravel mix to help weigh it down and the shrimp will still have plenty of cover in the channels, nooks and crannies along  with the java ferns.

By far ignoring your information and have taken it on board, this is more about helping to keep it weighed down.
I think it may take quite some time for this to become saturated.


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## dw1305 (14 Feb 2019)

Hi all, 





Andrew Butler said:


> On account the wood has been soaking for a month and is still just like a bouyancy aid I think i might still pack the main part of the void vith a silicone/gravel mix to help weigh it down and the shrimp will still have plenty of cover in the channels, nooks and crannies along with the java ferns.


That should work.

If just want a very quick DIY fix you can wedge a water worked, rounded, pebble in the void.

The really useful thing about spherical pebbles and cobbles is that you don't need to try and work out what type of rock they are, basically it is only really hard rock that forms rounded pebbles, and any really hard rock won't effect water chemistry.

cheers Darrel


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## Andrew Butler (14 Feb 2019)

dw1305 said:


> If just want a very quick DIY fix you can wedge a water worked, rounded, pebble in the void.


I opted for screwing a piece of slate to the bottom after thinking over your information about the void being left open.
Thanks Darrel.


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## Aqua sobriquet (4 May 2019)

I bought a book on Aquarium plants many years ago and there was a section in it covering the construction of artificial backgrounds.
It involved laying the tank on its back and spraying Polyurethane foam onto it. After the foam dried it could be carved to a realistic shape and it was then covered in Epoxy resin and the sand or gravel of your choice could be applied. Once it was all dry it was claimed to be perfectly safe for fish and plants. The effect could with care look very good and be designed to include water inlets, outlets and weirs to provide an uncluttered look. Some actually incorporated complete filter and heater units that were hidden from view.


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