# Everything DIY build



## Dogtemple (22 Oct 2020)

Hi

I've not been on here in years and it is kind of a continuation from my very first post about 9 years ago - https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/diy-optiwhite-tank-build.18651/#post-189892

In the heady days of 2011 I made an optiwhite aquarium but never used it, largely down to cost of doing a tank properly and I pushed my luck on the glass thickness, or lack of...  dimensions were 50x50square x 40cm tall and 4mm glass.  it was at the limit of the safety factor I think of 4?   

fast forward to 2020 and my circumstances are different, I can afford to do this properly and always intended to do a nice planted tank.  So I filled the tank up with water to check for leaks with the intention of using it and remembered why I stopped.  there was a bit of a bulge in the glass.   back then I would have risked it but not now.   This tank has been sitting in my spare room for ages but now is the time to do something with it.   I did the sensible thing and took a razor blade to the silicone and pulled it apart.  I used rtv108 silicone and that stuff is strong! even with a razorblade it was hard to split it apart.

Now I have 5 panes of 4mm glass and have cut these down to 31cm in height, which should be fine.  I still have the jig I made for this so it will be dusted off again, I am yet to rebuild the tank though.  as I have been working on everything else.

So that is where I was and this is the plan going forward...  I have some criteria and I am kind of tight so I will be building almost all of it myself and using stuff I already have or reclaiming/recycling where possible for the sake of being good on the environment.  but I will be building it as what I want doesn't necessarily exist in the shops.  I have this tendency to want to design everything and build it myself and this thing is no-exception.  despite me being a tight wad this is probably the most expensive way of going about it.......

with that in mind, I will be doing more than just the scape, the only thing I won't be building myself is the filter as I already have one and an external heater.  

I don't want this to look messy, I want it to be purposeful and efficient.  I will be loosely following the dieter rams principles of design which I try to use with such things (https://ifworlddesignguide.com/design-specials/dieter-rams-10-principles-for-good-design for reference) and the golden ratio is employed everywhere.

One of the big things about this is I don't want anything to touch the tank and I definitely don't want any suction cups, cables or visible hardware beyond the inflow/outflow pipes.   it will just be the stand, the tank, the light and the pipes on show.  if it can be hidden, then it will.  Nothing will be an after thought, so no cable tied power cables, silicone hoses, suction cups, etc.   It has been a lot of work to get it all sorted but I think I've cracked it.


This will be a bit of a slow burn build as I'm being pretty ambitious with certain aspects and only have a few hours a week I can dedicate to fabrication due to other crazy projects and work getting in the way.  it will probably be a bit like a grand designs project; the build will look like a glass box, it will go over budget, my girlfriend will get pregnant at the worst time possible, Kevin Mcloud will ask if it was worth it and I'll say I'm never going to do a thing like this again etc 


I don't have a lot to post other than the skeleton of the stand so far and some bits of glass.  I have been working on something I have not seen anyone else do and hope to post that up soon, it's been a lot of work with various revisions but I'm nearly there.


I have been working on this since April and figured out almost all of it and bought most of the parts I need, so hopefully I can do updates with something tangible to show.  up until now most of this has been stuck in my head and scribbled on bits of paper when I should have been working.


by doing this waffly first post I hope to keep up some momentum by posting on here 






 



the photos of the tank are before and after when stripped and cut to size.

up to this stage, the wood was reclaimed, stainless steel feet were £4, screws I already had and £5 to trim the glass at the glazers.  

if you got this far, thanks!


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## rebel (22 Oct 2020)

Nice work! that 4mm looks a tad thin but I am sure the experts will comment.

That Singer machine brings back memories!


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## chrisfraser05 (22 Oct 2020)

Following this with interest.

I'm in a similar situation as you, back into the hobby, after being on here last in 2011. This time round having the finances to do things properly.

Looking forward to seeing how much you can keep out of the display, I'm also not keen to have equipment on show, in the display at least. 
I've hidden my spraybar inside rockwork and my intake behind a large stone which is itself behind some Stem plants. External heater etc.

I've ended up with a temp compromise having Seachem Alerts for PH and Ammo on the front glass where i can see them on my CCTV while I'm away. At least for the first few trips.

Have you got stocking in mind at this point?


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## Nick potts (22 Oct 2020)

rebel said:


> Nice work! that 4mm looks a tad thin but I am sure the experts will comment.
> 
> That Singer machine brings back memories!


Nice write up, looking forward to see this progress.

For the glass, 4mm at 30cm height gives you a safety factor of 5, so should be fine from a technical standpoint.


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## Dogtemple (23 Oct 2020)

thanks for the comments. 

I haven't fully planned the scape or stocking as such yet, I have an idea of what I want.  it will be pretty standard, plants with some branchy wood extending out of the tank.  

ill be having easier plants, java trident and Christmas moss will be in there and some cherry shrimp and dwarf corydoras.

will be using CO2 and ferts but not heavily.


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## alto (23 Oct 2020)

> dwarf corydoras


Awesome journal to date
But please reconsider your fish choice - even _Corydoras_ _pygmaeus _prefers more swimming space than a 30cm cube allows

(Seriously Fish is an excellent resource for fish profiles as well as blog and forum sections)

ETA tried to remove that shaded “dwarf corydoras” but no go


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## Dogtemple (24 Oct 2020)

alto said:


> Awesome journal to date
> But please reconsider your fish choice - even _Corydoras_ _pygmaeus _prefers more swimming space than a 30cm cube allows
> 
> (Seriously Fish is an excellent resource for fish profiles as well as blog and forum sections)
> ...



ok thanks for the advice.  the height is 31cm but the length and width will be 50cm.   I would have thought they would be ok as they're so small.

just had a quick look on seriously fish and they said the following about dwarf cory
Aquarium Size​You could keep quite a large group of these in a tank measuring only 18″ x 12″ x 12″ (45cm x 30cm x 30cm) – 42.5 litres.

should be ok, my dimensions run at about 70ltr of the top of my head and I don't intend on having a huge amount


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## Filip Krupa (25 Oct 2020)

Dogtemple said:


> I have been working on this since April and figured out almost all of it and bought most of the parts I need, so hopefully I can do updates with something tangible to show. up until now most of this has been stuck in my head and scribbled on bits of paper when I should have been working.


🤣😂
I know the feeling. That was me when designing/building the 2000l beast.

Stand looks solid!
Following with interest


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## alto (25 Oct 2020)

Dogtemple said:


> height is 31cm but the length and width will be 50cm.


You’re fine then with a variety of fishes 

(somehow I inferred you were cutting the glass down to 31cm cube  )


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## Dogtemple (30 Oct 2020)

Got a few hours work in on this earlier today.  Just a couple of photos which will make absolutely no sense to anyone but this will be quite a big part of the tank design and something which should solve a problem.  It will all make sense when I get a few more bits together.  This idea developed from a seed of a thought I had when I was 7, around 1990, when my dad set up a tropical tank. One of those big old clear seal tanks with a stick on thermometer.


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## noodlesuk (31 Oct 2020)

Dogtemple said:


> Got a few hours work in on this earlier today.  Just a couple of photos which will make absolutely no sense to anyone but this will be quite a big part of the tank design and something which should solve a problem.  It will all make sense when I get a few more bits together.  This idea developed from a seed of a thought I had when I was 7, around 1990, when my dad set up a tropical tank. One of those big old clear seal tanks with a stick on thermometer.


Following with interest, is it some sort of adjustable platform?


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## Dogtemple (3 Nov 2020)

noodlesuk said:


> Following with interest, is it some sort of adjustable platform?


It is indeed. This is the other side. Did a bit more work to it last night but nothing worth taking a photo for.  Just a load of measuring, cutting, welding, fitting up, taking apart, measuring, cutting, welding, fitting up, taking apart, scratch head, etc etc


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## Dogtemple (4 Nov 2020)

Another minor update that won’t make much sense but it has a couple clues as to what this might be about


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## noodlesuk (5 Nov 2020)

Dogtemple said:


> Another minor update that won’t make much sense but it has a couple clues as to what this might be about


Some sort of winch, is that a motor?


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## Dogtemple (6 Nov 2020)

noodlesuk said:


> Some sort of winch, is that a motor?


Close, it’s a linear actuator. I have two to go on.  One is 50mm the other is 100mm


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## DaveWatkin (6 Nov 2020)

Will the tank lower into the cabinet for easier maintenance access to the top?


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## Dogtemple (6 Nov 2020)

DaveWatkin said:


> Will the tank lower into the cabinet for easier maintenance access to the top?



Good idea and the actuators can move a huge amount of weight, so that could be done. Although this is for something else, those two rails couldn’t hold the whole of the tank.


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## noodlesuk (7 Nov 2020)

Dogtemple said:


> Good idea and the actuators can move a huge amount of weight, so that could be done. Although this is for something else, those two rails couldn’t hold the whole of the tank.


Is it to lift up the person cleaning the tank, so they can reach the bottom? ;o) Or sump related?


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## Dogtemple (7 Nov 2020)

noodlesuk said:


> Is it to lift up the person cleaning the tank, so they can reach the bottom? ;o) Or sump related?



I’m pretty tall so I’m ok for teaching the bottom.  

It’s more for co2 and fertiliser purposes...


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## Dogtemple (13 Nov 2020)

I’ve managed to get quite a bit done this week, been nipping over to my workshop after work and grabbing an hour or two.

Finished the fixture which was just a few cut up bits of galvanised angle iron and nyloc nuts welded together.  Despite my first post saying everything has to look good and minimal, this is the opposite. But that’s ok, it’s inside the tank stand and purely functional. 


Even so it’s hella ugly so gave it a coat of paint, just to tidy it up and protect the bare edges from rusting.


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## Dogtemple (13 Nov 2020)

So what the hell is it!?!? Well it’s a fixture that moves up and down on an actuator and the fixture holds another actuator.  It has a purpose obviously... can you guess what it is yet?  These next few photos might explain it before this bit is finished...


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## Dogtemple (13 Nov 2020)

This is where I’m up to now. The white thing is a bit of 10mm polycarbonate, now with a bunch of slots. 

Next job is to cut up an Ikea chopping board on the bandsaw.  Ikea chopping boards, like most chopping boards, are made from polyethylene. Polyethylene is one of the lowest friction plastics and Ikea sell these things for about £2. 

So That’s my useless tip for the day, should you ever find yourself in the need of a low priced purveyor of low friction plastic, you now know where to go.


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## Dogtemple (18 Nov 2020)

The only hardware on display will be the inlet/outlet pipes. They’re 316 stainless and quite possibly the hardest bits of pipework on the planet to work with.  Due to stainless being nearly impossible to bend cleanly, I had to get the right tool for the job. 

Since I’ve made nearly everything so far from bits I already have, I could justify £195 on a stainless tube bender to make a couple of bends... 

Does look good though.


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## noodlesuk (19 Nov 2020)

Very tidy bends, something about neat pipework that is very pleasing. How are you doing the inlet outlet restrictions, slots holes, sieve etc?


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## Dogtemple (21 Nov 2020)

noodlesuk said:


> Very tidy bends, something about neat pipework that is very pleasing. How are you doing the inlet outlet restrictions, slots holes, sieve etc?



I have a jig made up to do slots.  I was going to do holes but 316 stainless is not easy to drill through and get a nice consistent finish.  Probably next week I will have the slots done. I have a nice little bit designed to go with the outflow.  Also yet to do, it’s just another one of the many little jobs.


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## Dogtemple (21 Nov 2020)

Some more done.  This part is nearly finished. I will explain it all when this part's completed. Might even put a video up if I can find a blank vhs for my camcorder.

You may notice there are some strips on the platform.  That’s the Ikea chopping board.

The fixture I’ve welded up is painted just for the sake of rust and giving it a bit of uniformity.  The left/right actuator has up down and lateral adjustment with a fixing to lock it in place, all adjustable and easily removed from the face on the inside of the stand.  The up/down actuator is also easily removed with one bolt and one pin.  All this adjustment is to dial it in with all adjustments being accessible from the front and for the actuators to be removed easily should they burn out or need replacement/servicing.


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## Andrew Butler (21 Nov 2020)

Dogtemple said:


> I was going to do holes but 316 stainless is not easy to drill through and get a nice consistent finish


I found by putting a bed with a fence onto a pillar drill base, then on a separate piece of 'sliding wood' used some quality pipe clips secured properly to another piece of wood that I'd centred using the pillar drill that this enabled me to move the piece of plastic/metal and keep the pipe centred and rigid in the clips - I hope this makes sense?
In essence it's just a simple jig.

A sharp drill was needed for the SS and a little rasping out from the inside which would likely be a problem on a long piece but I was able to reach the 150mm (ish) inside for the intakes.

Look forward to the slots and the big reveal


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## noodlesuk (21 Nov 2020)

Dogtemple said:


> I have a jig made up to do slots.  I was going to do holes but 316 stainless is not easy to drill through and get a nice consistent finish.  Probably next week I will have the slots done. I have a nice little bit designed to go with the outflow.  Also yet to do, it’s just another one of the many little jobs.


Yes, always snags in thin material, especially in tube. Might help if you can get a Mandel in there and go up in 0.2 or so increments, or if you can do it with a centre drill, instead of a twist drill. Much more rigid. Sounds like you're slotting now anyway. Look forward to seeing the finished article.


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## Dogtemple (23 Nov 2020)

Thanks for the tips. I may still do holes if slots don’t work out.  Was thinking that laser cutting would probably get the best finish and might be the way forward if the other ideas don’t work out.  

Done a little more this evening. Those two actuators need to be controlled by something, so sorted out the wiring with some simple circuits and a 12v car battery.


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## noodlesuk (23 Nov 2020)

The plot thickens! Is that some sort of timer based control system? Does it move the lights to simulate the change on the horizon? Can't wait for the big reveal!


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## Dogtemple (23 Nov 2020)

noodlesuk said:


> The plot thickens! Is that some sort of timer based control system? Does it move the lights to simulate the change on the horizon? Can't wait for the big reveal!



Getting close.  I have a design for the lighting, which will be a departure from normal aquarium light fixtures, it will essentially just be a light at the end of the day but will be different.

There’s three sets of timers there and a bunch of relays. 

One is a clock timer with a relay switch, that goes to one actuator.

The other is two timed relays, which also go to another relay and the actuator. 

I’m using timers and relays as they’re cheap, do the job really well, versatile, reliable, run off a solar charged car battery so won’t crash or be affected by a power cut, don’t require being plugged in to a computer or anything.  I could control the actuators with an arduino but they introduce a whole load of other factors I don’t need or want to have to consider.

So I’m keeping this bit simple; just a basic bunch of switches all wired together and easily controllable.


So yes, it’s timer controlled but not for the lighting.


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## dcurzon (29 Nov 2020)

Is it to move the outlet pipe up and down? Down for photoperiod, and up to create some surface agitation after lights out?


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## Dogtemple (29 Nov 2020)

dcurzon said:


> Is it to move the outlet pipe up and down? Down for photoperiod, and up to create some surface agitation after lights out?



Give that man a prize!  Yes, that is exactly it.  Well part of it. 

As part of not wanting to have equipment in the tank, I didn’t want to have an air stone so the other option is to move the outlet pipe up to agitate the water.  I can’t honestly say I would remember to do this everyday and I’m often out and about.  So automating it in some way was the only option here. 

I had a few ideas for this, the first idea was to have the pipe tilt upwards but due to the angle, it would need to pivot very close to the top of the tank.  This would introduce more visible stuff, which is against what I’m aiming for. 

So moving the pipe up directly was the best option.  Again, a bunch of different ideas tried out and settled on 2 rails with 4 linear bearings with a fixture to hold things in place. 

As this is to slide up and down, everything has to be rigid and precise, therefore over engineered for rigidity and adjustability to make sure it can be adjusted for smooth movement with no snagging.  

It has a timer running from a car battery which will be solar charged.  Therefore removing any problems caused by a power cut.   The timer will switch on the actuator to lift it up at lights out.  When lights go on again, the timer has been wired to a relay so that it will switch the polarity and therefore the actuator will drop it down.    The white timer and relay are pictured in the photo above.  

So that's one half of this bit.  There’s something else it does.


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## noodlesuk (29 Nov 2020)

Dogtemple said:


> Give that man a prize!  Yes, that is exactly it.  Well part of it.
> 
> As part of not wanting to have equipment in the tank, I didn’t want to have an air stone so the other option is to move the outlet pipe up to agitate the water.  I can’t honestly say I would remember to do this everyday and I’m often out and about.  So automating it in some way was the only option here.


Wow I would have never guessed that, didn't appreciate the benefits of surface vs below surface agitation at specific times, but makes sense now.

Would 2 outlets( one near surface,  one below) on a solenoid valve done the same job? Guess that is extra stuff in the tank then?

Intrigued to see what other function the actuators perform.


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## rebel (30 Nov 2020)

In the ADA gallery, the minions move the outlet pipes up and down on a daily basis. This is the way.


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## Dogtemple (30 Nov 2020)

noodlesuk said:


> Wow I would have never guessed that, didn't appreciate the benefits of surface vs below surface agitation at specific times, but makes sense now.
> 
> Would 2 outlets( one near surface,  one below) on a solenoid valve done the same job? Guess that is extra stuff in the tank then?
> 
> Intrigued to see what other function the actuators perform.



thats an idea yeah, you could do that with a third pipe or valve at the end of the pipe I suppose, but as you say it would introduce more stuff instead of reduce it.  I'm trying to reduce everything down to the bare minimum visually and make it as functional as possible at the same time.

thats not to say it wouldn't work for someone else though.  plenty of tanks seem to have visible plumbing and other bits and pieces on show.


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## Dogtemple (30 Nov 2020)

rebel said:


> In the ADA gallery, the minions move the outlet pipes up and down on a daily basis. This is the way.



they probably do that to keep the unions happy...


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## dcurzon (30 Nov 2020)

Dogtemple said:


> Give that man a prize!  Yes, that is exactly it.  Well part of it.
> 
> As part of not wanting to have equipment in the tank, I didn’t want to have an air stone so the other option is to move the outlet pipe up to agitate the water.  I can’t honestly say I would remember to do this everyday and I’m often out and about.  So automating it in some way was the only option here.


Only drew that conclusion as it was something I'd considered doing myself, before realising that I wouldn't have the foggiest idea of how to go about it :/


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## rebel (30 Nov 2020)

dcurzon said:


> I wouldn't have the foggiest idea of how to go about it :/


Up at night, Down during day.


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## Dogtemple (6 Dec 2020)

just an update on this, not got much done to be honest, I've done quite a few little niggly jobs that needed doing this week but nothing substantial.   my workshop is unheated and flipping freezing at the moment, it's practically impossible to do anything, it's so cold my hands barely move.  I'm getting to the parts which have to be <millimetre precise so I really can't let anything screw it up as some of it I only get one shot at, such as putting bends in the pipework and cutting slots.  the jiggery pokery metal work aspect will probably be a bit slow for the time being but it is mostly done now.  

in the meantime I plan to do other bits, such as make the tank and co2 reactor until I can face going back outside.


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## dcurzon (6 Dec 2020)

It has definitely been on the chilly side recently... Snow soon!


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## Dogtemple (20 Jan 2021)

little bit of an update, got the tank build on the go.   I stripped down my original tank to make it 9cm shorter, it took ages to clean off all the old silicone from the glass.   getting the worst of it off was no trouble it was the traces of silicone left behind that sucked up the hours.

anyway, the latest on the tank building is in it's own thread, originally started nearly a decade ago, check it out here: DIY Optiwhite tank build


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## maj74 (20 Jan 2021)

Dogtemple said:


> little bit of an update, got the tank build on the go.   I stripped down my original tank to make it 9cm shorter, it took ages to clean off all the old silicone from the glass.   getting the worst of it off was no trouble it was the traces of silicone left behind that sucked up the hours.
> 
> anyway, the latest on the tank building is in it's own thread, originally started nearly a decade ago, check it out here: DIY Optiwhite tank build


That looks like an impressive way to build a tank - I could have done with one of those.


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## Dogtemple (20 Jan 2021)

The second pane is in


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## Dogtemple (21 Jan 2021)




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## Dogtemple (26 Jan 2021)

got another update on the tank build aspect, on its own thread.   made a mistake...  go check it out if you want to see where I went wrong


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## Dogtemple (5 Feb 2021)

Last pane and it’s starting to take shape now.   Pleased with the dimensions, looks just as I hoped. 

When looked front on it appears to have a good depth from front to back and gives an appearance of being relatively shallow.


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## Dogtemple (12 Feb 2021)

Slow progress as promised. Nearly done this tank though. One more side to seal and clean the edges up.


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## Dogtemple (15 Feb 2021)

The tank is all complete and sealed up, but I’m not happy with the finish on the front panel.  It could be better.  It is sound and tidy but looking up close there are some tiny bubbles in the silicone.  I don’t really want to compromise on the finish of this tank so I’m going to pull the front pane out, clean off all the silicone and redo it.


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## Dogtemple (16 Feb 2021)

The front pane isn’t good enough so it’s getting redone.


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## noodlesuk (16 Feb 2021)

That's dedication/perfection, when it's a real pain to re-do, but you'll never be able to avoid that little "niggle" unless you do ! Been there myself. Progress looking good so far though.


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## Dogtemple (16 Feb 2021)

noodlesuk said:


> That's dedication/perfection, when it's a real pain to re-do, but you'll never be able to avoid that little "niggle" unless you do ! Been there myself. Progress looking good so far though.



thanks, you're right.  it would have got on my nerves and I could have done better.  now is the time to sort these things so just got to get on with it and strip it out and redo.   I'm aiming for a really high level of build quality here, so making do isn't really going to cut it.


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## Dogtemple (20 Feb 2021)

After much cleaning of silicone with razor blades and pins to get every last scrap off, got silicone back on it 99.9% bubble free.  Was worth redoing.


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## Dogtemple (26 Feb 2021)

Got back to the workshop today, one of the things I’ve been trying but failing with is making clean slots in the tubing for the outflow pipe. Drilling just didn’t work, angle grinder did the job but it was messy.   What i have found to work is this, I managed to make some clamps for the tube and bodge some fittings to hold a 0.8mm angle grinder slitting disc in my mill.

It’s worked out quite well, the disc doesn’t spin that fast so it shouldn’t discolour the metal.  Most importantly it does clean and straight cuts.   This is just a test on a bit of old tube.  When I do the proper one I’ll measure the cuts to get equally spaced slots.


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## Dogtemple (27 Feb 2021)

The tank is now finished and as minimal as can be.


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## Dogtemple (2 Mar 2021)

A little more done today.  Each of those slots took aaaaages, if I went too fast the disc would wear down and the slots wouldn’t be even.   So had to go real slow. Like 25mins per cut slow.  It worked though.  All the slots are exactly the same.


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## Dogtemple (5 Mar 2021)

Slots now cut, 6 in total about 2/3 of the way round the tube, which is plenty. 

After a bit of maths and measuring and with some bends, I now have a pair of 316 stainless inflow and out flow pipes.  

Still need to do bends at the other end of the tubes where they enter the stand, trim the outflow down and polish them on the mop.


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## Tucker90 (6 Mar 2021)

Dogtemple said:


> Slots now cut, 6 in total about 2/3 of the way round the tube, which is plenty.
> 
> After a bit of maths and measuring and with some bends, I now have a pair of 316 stainless inflow and out flow pipes.
> 
> ...



They look great! 

Standard pipe bender or did you make a form? 
Amazed there’s no “flattening” on the tube although it’s quite a large radius I suppose! 


What are you intentions of capping off the inlet? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Dogtemple (6 Mar 2021)

Tucker90 said:


> They look great!
> 
> Standard pipe bender or did you make a form?
> Amazed there’s no “flattening” on the tube although it’s quite a large radius I suppose!
> ...



thanks, used a specific ridgid half inch stainless tube bender for this.  off the top of my head the radius is 3cm.  you need the correct tools to bend this stuff with no kinks, it is very hard tubing and only gets harder the more you work it.  you may get away with a cheaper bender but I'm quite a fan of using the right tool for the job these days.

I have a plan for the cap, I was going to tig weld it up, then had ideas about making a silicone bung or compression plug of some kind so it could be cleaned or unplugged if needed.

the cap will be one of the next things.  it will incorporate another two bits of hardware that will reduce clutter in the tank.


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## Tucker90 (6 Mar 2021)

That sounds interesting, 

Not sure if it’d work with you incorporating other things into it, but turning out a cap to freeze fit tolerance is what I’d do, if you have access to a lathe. 

Although having re-read your intentions, an interference fit wouldn’t really allow for cleaning! 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Dogtemple (6 Mar 2021)

thats a good idea, I have access to a lathe and may need to go that route.  I'm keen to reduce things though so incorporating bits in to the cap is hopefully going to achieve that


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## Dogtemple (16 Mar 2021)

Knocked these up today, they need cleaning up before assembling.  It’s the plug for the inflow.


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## Tucker90 (18 Mar 2021)

Dogtemple said:


> Knocked these up today, they need cleaning up before assembling. It’s the plug for the inflow.
> 
> View attachment 164999
> 
> View attachment 165000



What’s the metal tube for dog?

Understand the plug and seal! Did you turn them out? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Dogtemple (18 Mar 2021)

Tucker90 said:


> What’s the metal tube for dog?
> 
> Understand the plug and seal! Did you turn them out?
> 
> ...



yeah they were turned on a metal lathe, hence them being a bit yellow as they got a bit oily, it should be clear acrylic, I just need to give the bits a clean.

I need to get some acrylic solvent but it will all be put together and if it works, I will show it complete.  if not ill have to go back to the drawing board!

if you imagine those pieces together though, you can probably see what its meant to be


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## Dogtemple (18 Mar 2021)

Actually here it is pressed together.  I’m pretty sure this will work.


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## Tucker90 (18 Mar 2021)

Dogtemple said:


> Actually here it is pressed together. I’m pretty sure this will work.
> 
> View attachment 165069



 

Good work! 

Will you solvent weld the tube in or is it interference fit? Wouldn’t want it getting sucked up. 


What is it you do for a living with access to machining tools? 



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Dogtemple (18 Mar 2021)

It is interference fit so will be solvent welded, should be optically clear joins.  The widest part is the same diameter as the inflow pipe so it won’t get sucked up, it will butt up against it. 

I don’t do this for a living, I’m just creatively minded and design stuff a lot. I work a boring 9-5 four days a week (and day dream and write down ideas through the day) and take a Friday to mess around making stuff!

plus my dad is an engineer so I've just grown up with tools and bought or made the stuff I've needed.   I do sell bits and pieces here and there so it pays for itself, ill probably sell custom sets of these inflow/outflow pipes if theres any interest.


do you do this sort of stuff?


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## Dogtemple (18 Mar 2021)

Done a little more today, I want to keep some cherry shrimp in this tank and will need a way of keeping them from getting sucked in to the filter.    A bit of foam is not an option as it’s too ugly and intrusive, same for a mesh guard on the outside.   So I’ve made a mesh guard for inside the tube.   Stainless mesh rolled in to tube a bit larger than the ID.   Slots in and holds firm.   The plug will be removable in order to clean the mesh.   

Forgot to mention the plug doubles up as a CO2 drop checker.


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## Courtneybst (19 Mar 2021)

Dogtemple said:


> Done a little more today, I want to keep some cherry shrimp in this tank and will need a way of keeping them from getting sucked in to the filter. A bit of foam is not an option as it’s too ugly and intrusive, same for a mesh guard on the outside. So I’ve made a mesh guard for inside the tube. Stainless mesh rolled in to tube a bit larger than the ID. Slots in and holds firm. The plug will be removable in order to clean the mesh.
> 
> Forgot to mention the plug doubles up as a CO2 drop checker.
> 
> ...



Looks great! I was thinking of doing something similar long term for my stainless steel pipes. 

Might sound like a stupid question but how do you get the mesh to bend and curve so smoothly?


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## Dogtemple (19 Mar 2021)

Courtneybst said:


> Looks great! I was thinking of doing something similar long term for my stainless steel pipes.
> 
> Might sound like a stupid question but how do you get the mesh to bend and curve so smoothly?



Thanks, I use slip rolls to roll it in to a tube but that only rolls it down so far, as this is a very tight tube, so the rest I rolled by hand.  It would have been difficult to get it in to a clean tube without the rollers to do the majority of the work tbh.


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## Courtneybst (19 Mar 2021)

Dogtemple said:


> Thanks, I use slip rolls to roll it in to a tube but that only rolls it down so far, as this is a very tight tube, so the rest I rolled by hand. It would have been difficult to get it in to a clean tube without the rollers to do the majority of the work tbh.



Maybe you'd be willing to sell some? I'd buy them _wink_ haha


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## Dogtemple (19 Mar 2021)

Courtneybst said:


> Maybe you'd be willing to sell some? I'd buy them _wink_ haha



yeah I can make you some, if you give me the dimensions you need I could knock up a couple today if you like.


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## Courtneybst (19 Mar 2021)

Dogtemple said:


> yeah I can make you some, if you give me the dimensions you need I could knock up a couple today if you like.


Amazing thanks! I'll measure it and PM you


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## Dogtemple (19 Mar 2021)

Couple of internal shrimp screens made for Courtneybst and ready to be sent off. 





And after they were done I finished a bigger and more elusive part of this little project...


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## Dogtemple (19 Mar 2021)

So.... another update.  All the up and down metal work with rails thing I did a few months ago and had to stop as I was being feeble about the cold, finally got finished today.   And it was the part I was being most mysterious about.

The up and down aspect is to raise the outflow pipe at night to give better aeration and disperse any co2. In the morning before the co2 kicks in it will drop down again.  I have this linked to a timer and relay which switches on a linear actuator and reverses polarity to draw it up and down.

The other bit works on a similar principle; a linear actuator with relays and timers.  But this actuator goes horizontally and switches on one second approx every hour, once it reaches the end it then retracts.   This is linked to the outflow.  The idea is that the outflow pipe will move from left to right in small increments throughout the day and night.

Luckily all the working out I did has meant it worked perfectly first time.

The idea for this came when I was about 7 years old in 1990, my dad set up a tank with pumps on each end of the tank. My dad told me the pumps were there to circulate the water. I thought when he turned it all on the pumps would move left and right to circulate the water.  It just seemed like an obvious thing to do.  but they didn't 

Fast forward to now and the whole need for good flow in a planted aquarium thing made me think of this again.

The set up I have here moves the outflow by 90degrees left and right, I’m quite confident this will eliminate near enough all dead spots in the tank.  More importantly it saves having any extra bits in the tank to achieve this.

Part of my aim with this tank is to minimalise the hell out of this set up.

These two pipes should therefore:
Circulate the water thoroughly and better than a static outflow
Automatically raise at night to remove the need to do this manually or add an air stone for night time aeration
Incorporates a shrimp guard inside the inflow and is not easily visible
Incorporates a CO2 drop checker as the cap in the inflow
The pipework all enters in to the tank stand, this keeps lines straight, no curvy silicone hoses hanging down (I really hate that) and no chance of brown algae pipework on display.

I’m quite pleased with all this.  It’s been a lot of planning and trying lots of different ideas to get to this stage.

I would be interested to hear anyones thoughts on this idea.












The photos don’t show the full extent of the left and right business, I’ll do a video as some point to show it all working.


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## Kezzab (19 Mar 2021)

Ha! We are so far at opposite ends of the spectrum. Fantastic work.


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## Tucker90 (19 Mar 2021)

Dogtemple said:


> do you do this sort of stuff?




I’m a tool maker by trade, but now in the aerospace industry as a mechanic. 

I tend to spend more time making things for motorbikes. 

Although seeing you do this has made me want to have a go at a few things now 

Proper impressed with the latest design pal. Respect for putting that much effort in for something most wouldn’t deem worth it! 

You can tell you enjoy it! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Dogtemple (19 Mar 2021)

Tucker90 said:


> I’m a tool maker by trade, but now in the aerospace industry as a mechanic.
> 
> I tend to spend more time making things for motorbikes.
> 
> ...



thats awesome, what kind of motorbike bits have you been making? I'm in to motorbikes too, amongst other things


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## Tucker90 (19 Mar 2021)

Dogtemple said:


> thats awesome, what kind of motorbike bits have you been making? I'm in to motorbikes too, amongst other things



I like my bobbers/chops so just bits like sissy bars, pegs, stem covers, nothing too fancy. 

Also make tattoo machine parts and machines themselves! But there’s not much too them! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Wookii (20 Mar 2021)

Dogtemple said:


> So.... another update.  All the up and down metal work with rails thing I did a few months ago and had to stop as I was being feeble about the cold, finally got finished today.   And it was the part I was being most mysterious about.
> 
> The up and down aspect is to raise the outflow pipe at night to give better aeration and disperse any co2. In the morning before the co2 kicks in it will drop down again.  I have this linked to a timer and relay which switches on a linear actuator and reverses polarity to draw it up and down.
> 
> ...



Loving the ingenuity, nice work! I’m keen to see the video of it working. As someone who works with stainless steel every day I appreciate the effort you’ve gone to - it’s not always an easy material to work with.

Two practical observations though. First, how are you going to clean the inside of such long pipe work when it invariably furs with detritus? 

Second, the open area for the inlet pipe looks very small, particularly as you’ve added the mesh inside. A couple of leaves stuck to it during use, and you may find a significant drop in flow.

If it were me, I’d do away with the slots completely, cut out the entire opening where the slots are formed, resulting in a larger rectangular section of visible mesh for the water to draw through,


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## Dogtemple (20 Mar 2021)

Wookii said:


> Loving the ingenuity, nice work! I’m keen to see the video of it working. As someone who works with stainless steel every day I appreciate the effort you’ve gone to - it’s not always an easy material to work with.
> 
> Two practical observations though. First, how are you going to clean the inside of such long pipe work when it invariably furs with detritus?
> 
> ...



thanks for the input, the pipes furring up, I hope being stainless it will minimise that to an extent.   even so, they are easily removed from the bar holders, it's just a grub screw on each holder and it slides off.   I was thinking either running an outer of a bike brake cable down there with a bit of rag tied to the end and pulling it through or attaching to a drill and letting it flail about in the tube.  another thing I thought of was taking them off and running a hose or pressure washer through it. failing that it would be easy enough to take both off and soak them in bleach.   being metal tubes they ought to be forgiving to rough handling, unlike glass.   the pipes on the inside of the stand will be clear silicone so I should get an indication of the state they're in.

the opening I have to admit is a little bit of a concern.    you can't really see it on the photos but the gaps wrap around the majority of the pipe, which ought to be ok if a leaf sucks on there, unless it wraps around the whole pipe.  I worked it out that the surface area of the gaps was over double the ID of the tube.

so it seemed fine but once I put the mesh in I did think it might be a bit of an obstruction.  I tested by blowing down the pipe with the gaps covered but the end of the tube open then compared blowing down the tube with the end covered and gaps open.   there was definitely a difference, so I think ideally I need more gaps in there.    I was going to do 12 gaps originally but it took so long I settled with 6.      I've thought of a quicker way to do this though and the current tube has some scratches on, so I may well redo it with a new bit of tube and 12 gaps.


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## Dogtemple (2 Apr 2021)

Did a bit of foraging, my workshop is based on a small holding farm and all the heating is done by burning wood.  So there’s stacks of logs everywhere.  Just so happened that someone had split a load of ivy clad wood and left the ivy behind.

Pretty lucky, found exactly what I wanted straight away.  It’s been sitting there for well over a year so it’s pretty dead and dried out.  There are varying views with ivy wood, some say it’s fine and use without issue and others say don’t touch it.

This amount of wood would cost a small fortune if bought in a shop so I’ll take the chance. 

Took a couple hours to get all the little bits off, kinda satisfying so time well spent.

Most of the wood is dead as a door nail but there were a couple of spots that were a little bright in the bark, so it will need a bit longer to dry before using.


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## Dogtemple (17 Apr 2021)

I’ve not posted much on here lately just as I’ve been doing small and not very interesting things like working out the routing of the pipework and making brackets etc.  

Since this is a bit more relatable though I thought I would post a bit about the hardscape. I’ve been scratching all the tiny bits of old bark off and started to do a bit of arranging.    Feel like I have a good mixture of height and front to back depth going on here.   Would like to hear others opinions.  There are four pieces here just balancing on each other.   I’ll probably silicone them together or tie with fishing line. 

I will be having a big chunk of java trident in the middle, moss tied to the branches, Christmas moss and maybe some rocks around the bottom, maybe rotala at the back and buce dotted around elsewhere.   Just thoughts so far, I havnt looked much beyond the moss and java fern.   The front will be relatively open/negative space with sand as I’ll be having dwarf corydoras and they need sand to forage. 

It’s old ivy wood.  Have tested it being intert and non toxic by sticking a branch in a jar with some daphnia for a couple weeks, they are still swimming about so think it’s safe.


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## Dogtemple (23 Apr 2021)

I got a little time in to do another little job today.  I have this Lumini asta pendant lamp that I will be using for this tank.  It will be suspended by a cable.  The original fitting would require the cable to be tied or gripped with an Allen key type jobby and introduces another “thing”.  In the interest of reducing things i have made something to make it a bit more streamlined.

This is the original fitting




And a 10mm bolt fits happily in there instead





I cut the bolt down, drilled a hole through the middle, turned the head in to something slimmer on the lathe and fit a cable clutch. 





And fits like this






When it’s hanging the cable will just go directly in to the lamp with no obvious bolting or excess cable poking out.  It’s very strong and also allows the height to be easily adjusted.


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## Dogtemple (30 Apr 2021)

Small bit of progress after work today. 

The last post showed how a bit of wire will be attaching to a luminaire. The bit I did today is to attach the other end of the wire. 

The wire will be feeding through a thin stainless tube.  The wire I’m using is stainless steel gear cable for a bike that has a small barrel end. 

To do this I found an old rusty bolt which happened to be the right diameter. 




Chopped it down 





A bit of turning later...





Fits like this 





When it’s all painted it should be fairly seamless


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## Dogtemple (21 Jun 2021)

Still been doing things with this but nothing much to post.  It’s been a bit slow as other projects and life has got in the way and a fair amount of time has been spent scratching my head and trying to overcome some oversights. 

This is where I’m at currently, finishing off the stand, which is nearly done. 





One of those oversights came from building the stand.  The very first thing I did was the frame for the stand but didn’t think too hard about how the door would fit.  I have settled on the door needing to be completely removed to get access to the stuff inside.  So it will essentially slot in instead of swing out on a hinge.  I could say this was a design choice as it gives me full wide access to the inside.   But in reality it was just down to not considering how hinges would fit.   I have big chunky 2x4 for the frame and it’s clad with 20mm sheets of wood for the external finishing.  This simply doesn’t allow for discrete hinges.  I tried wide fridge door hinges but the door would only open a couple cm before jamming up.  So I’ve had to work out a way around this.  

Another oversight was assuming that the tools I used were true... they kind of were at least.  I spent ages getting the cladding on dead straight at the sides then lined up the front and it was unforgivably wonky.   After staring at if for ages I realised it was at a small tilt and one of the top braces was the cause.  It was about 1mm off being square, which caused the top and bottom to be out of true by about 10mm.  After realising this and dismantling it, cutting a new section and reassembling it it was fine. Just a lot of time lost and set me back about a week. 

All good lessons though.  I’m not very experienced with wood working so it’s valuable stuff to encounter nonetheless.  Another thing I’ve learnt is that sheets of wood bow more than you would like.   Next step here is to brace the front with angle iron to keep it flat.  The sides have been screwed on to the frame and I made a bunch of adjustable brackets to allow for making the sides dead straight. 

Tomorrow I have a day off work and hope to have the holes cut in the side for the up and down/side to side outflow and inflow pipes, the door fitted and the wood part of it should be finished.  Once that’s done I’ll just need to do the finishing and sealing and I can get it home and plumb/wire it up.    That and I need to weld up the lighting fixture I’ve designed and paint it.  After that there’s just the small bits to do. 

One day I might even put some water in the tank!


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## Dogtemple (23 Jun 2021)

Ok so today I got the door sorted and got all the panels to line up with equal panel gaps all round.  





The door solution has worked out pretty well and I’m rather happy with it.  It was a bit of a bugger to line up but got there in the end.  

I had to put a brace on the top edge of the front panel as it had a slight bow.  This was just a length of angle iron screwed to the back of the front panel.  On the frame part I screwed in a couple of neodymium magnets which can be adjusted to moderate the ‘sticking strength’ of the door.  These stick to the angle iron and hold the door in place.  





At the bottom of the front panel I have a block of wood with a couple small lengths of stainless tube sticking out.  These are just offcuts from the inlet/outlet pipework.  

These slot in to another bit of angle iron which have a couple of V shapes cut out, this is bolted to the floor of the stand’s frame. 





So what happens here is the two bits of stainless pipe locate to the two V grooves and the top of the panel is pushed in and held in place with the magnets.  Nice and simple and should accurately line up every time. 

Took about 5 hours to make the bits and line all this up. All because I screwed something up early in the build and knocked everything out of alignment, as detailed in the previous post.  Feels like it’s nearing the end though.


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## Dogtemple (25 Jun 2021)

Got quite a big bit done today, cutting the slot in the side panel. 









It required figuring out where it needed to go and routering an angle to the inner side.  This was to allow the pipe to swing and not hit the edges.  I have been putting it off as it’s a new panel of wood and could have got it wrong.  I measured it loads and needless to say, I cut the holes in the wrong place. 

The slot should have been about 1cm lower so had to file it to allow it to fit properly.   No idea how that happened.  I’ll get another panel and redo if it bothers me. 

This was probably the last bit I have been putting off.  Not much left to do now.  

The orange rollers jam up in the slot section which I suspected would happen, just need to raise the top rollers so they clear the slot and that will sort the problem.  An easy fix.


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## Ian61 (26 Jun 2021)

Anyone else suffering from DIY-inadequacy syndrome?


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## Filip Krupa (28 Jun 2021)

Ian61 said:


> Anyone else suffering from DIY-inadequacy syndrome?



    🤚
🤣


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## Dogtemple (28 Jun 2021)

Ian61 said:


> Anyone else suffering from DIY-inadequacy syndrome?



You should see the state of my carpentry on this thing.  It’s not great. DIY in its most amateur sense.


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## Dogtemple (28 Jun 2021)

Finished off the little jamming problem with the orange rollers earlier today.   The bottom two rollers guide the pipe left and right where as the top two guide the whole little fixing that the rollers bolt to. 

The fixing that holds the rollers is just a 10mm bit of polycarbonate with a bearing pressed in and that bolts to the little angle that’s fixed to the actuator.   This bit being on a bearing allows the rollers to move around the pipe a bit and get the maximum travel but also caused them to move in to the slot in the wood and it would all jam up.  

To remedy this I raised the top two rollers to a height above the slot. These now roll across a metal rail and gives a smooth and long sweep for the pipe to go left and right.  






Just need to drill the hole for the inflow pipe and I can get to setting fire to the front and side panels.  That’s the next fun bit


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## Dogtemple (2 Jul 2021)

A touch more done today.  Drilled the hole and fitted the outflow pipe.  









There’s nothing more to do on the stand, thank god.  Except the aesthetic finish.   From the start I always intended to do what’s called “shou sugi ban” to the wood.  Shou Sugi Ban is a technique used for centuries by the Japanese.  It’s simply burning the surface of the wood, it water/weather proofs and fire proofs the wood.  I don’t really need either of these aspects but I like it aesthetically.  I also want it to match a large floating sideboard I built which also is black.  So it’s suitable and saves painting it.  

I intended to burn it to the point where you get a crackled effect but having done it, I’m not so sure.  This is a varnished test piece. 





The board is made of strips and it’s evident when burnt. Looks a bit messier than I hoped.  Also is prone to bowing rather a lot, which isn’t good.  

If the wood is burnt to the point it turns black, it looks more presentable.  

One half the knots have had an extra bit of burning. The other half the knots are more present. 





I think I’ll probably go for the burn with knots more apparent, it just looks more natural and have more depth, it’s almost 3D 

Anyways, that’s next. Burn it, varnish it and take it home to assemble!


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## Filip Krupa (3 Jul 2021)

Looking good. Love those pipes!


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## shangman (3 Jul 2021)

I LOVE the Shou Sugi Ban effect, especially where it highlights the knots in the wood, it looks absolutely beautiful. Congratulations on a stunning cabinet!! The pipes are amazing too.


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## Dogtemple (3 Jul 2021)

thanks, I appreciate the feedback! 

i'll be going with the knot showing look I think.  if this wood wasn't pine the crackle look would probably have come out better.


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## shangman (4 Jul 2021)

Dogtemple said:


> thanks, I appreciate the feedback!
> 
> i'll be going with the knot showing look I think.  if this wood wasn't pine the crackle look would probably have come out better.


I think the knot showing look is gorg, def the one to go with, the crackle is cool, but I did a lil google earlier and saw how you get the effects for different woods and you're right, it's better with other woods. It does look fab varnished though. Great to have lots of awesome choices 

I did an internet deep dive on this technique yesterday morning after seeing your post and now when I redo my kitchen I'm 100% treating all the cabinets and wood there with it. It's so beautiful and special!! Can't wait to see your final cabinet.

Also I hadn't been through this thrad before, this whole build is stunning, those pipes are a perfect! Congratulations, excited to see how you masterfully do every piece. 😍


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## Dogtemple (4 Jul 2021)

shangman said:


> I think the knot showing look is gorg, def the one to go with, the crackle is cool, but I did a lil google earlier and saw how you get the effects for different woods and you're right, it's better with other woods. It does look fab varnished though. Great to have lots of awesome choices
> 
> I did an internet deep dive on this technique yesterday morning after seeing your post and now when I redo my kitchen I'm 100% treating all the cabinets and wood there with it. It's so beautiful and special!! Can't wait to see your final cabinet.
> 
> Also I hadn't been through this thrad before, this whole build is stunning, those pipes are a perfect! Congratulations, excited to see how you masterfully do every piece. 😍



A kitchen done this way would be something to see!  You could reuse the existing doors if needing to do your kitchen on a budget. 

Thanks for checking it out, it’s all starting to come together now.  When I have all the electrics hooked up I will try sort out a video to show it all working


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## Dogtemple (5 Jul 2021)

Managed to grab another hour or so after work.  Painting with a blow torch today.  This is the front panel.  A coat of satin varnish and it’s pretty much done. Might need another coat. Quite happy with how it turned out. Just need to do the two side panels now.


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## Dogtemple (9 Jul 2021)

Varnished all the panels up, I’ll take it all home next week after work when dried fully.  

Also did this, another drop checker to improve on the first I made. 









The first drop checker I made is on the right, it’s a bit too small. 

Made it twice as long to allow for a bubble to form in the bottom and up the longer tube and allow more ph liquid to sit in the tube.  Should also make it easier to view the colour of the liquid too.   The two O rings help it sit straight in the end of the tube and plug it up, whilst allowing it to be easily removed and refitted for cleaning refilling with fresh liquid.


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## Wookii (9 Jul 2021)

Neat idea, that’s great! Do you have any way to make the dark grey internal tube white? It’ll make it much easier to read.


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## Dogtemple (9 Jul 2021)

Wookii said:


> Neat idea, that’s great! Do you have any way to make the dark grey internal tube white? It’ll make it much easier to read.




thanks, I have considered painting it but its adding more into the mix, my aim is to have minimum amount of everything on show in the hope that it blends in.   the tube in the middle is stainless steel, so I could either paint it or more likely, I will polish it.  the other option is to paint the back of the perspex tube white.   will see how it goes, I would prefer not to paint any of it but I have plenty more material to make another and have ago with different ideas.


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## Tim Harrison (10 Jul 2021)

All looking good. Interesting album title in pink and black 
That's got to be a collectors item 


Dogtemple said:


>


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## Dogtemple (10 Jul 2021)

Tim Harrison said:


> All looking good. Interesting album title in pink and black
> That's got to be a collectors item


Ha well spotted!  I think that record came with a poster.  When I’m home after the weekend I’ll dig it out and take a photo for you.


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## Baarks (12 Jul 2021)

I have been following this in awe of your DIY prowess and fully appreciating your perfectionist streak...
Thanks for sharing and please keep updating! I can’t wait to see this completed!


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## Dogtemple (13 Jul 2021)

Baarks said:


> I have been following this in awe of your DIY prowess and fully appreciating your perfectionist streak...
> Thanks for sharing and please keep updating! I can’t wait to see this completed!



thanks thats great to hear! a large part of putting it up on here is to try and keep the momentum going.  I don't post very much of what happens with the build as theres lots of making tools in order to make other things, having to work things out, redo it, try again type processes so it takes masses of time, and I'm not following any preexisting plan.  I knew it would take ages and putting it on here has helped push me to finish it.  I hope to get it planted up soon, its feeling like I'm getting closer to the end of the making part.


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## Dogtemple (13 Jul 2021)

The panels are done, couple coats of varnish and they feel smooth and surprisingly hard like glass, which is nice.

Also an extra appearance for Tim Harrison


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## shangman (13 Jul 2021)

Absolutely BEAUTIFUL cabinet, probably the best one I've ever seen! Can't wait to see it in-situ with the tank on top.


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## Dogtemple (13 Jul 2021)

shangman said:


> Absolutely BEAUTIFUL cabinet, probably the best one I've ever seen! Can't wait to see it in-situ with the tank on top.



thanks!  hopefully will have the rest of it back home later in the week


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## Dogtemple (17 Jul 2021)

Some scape shopping today


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## Dogtemple (19 Jul 2021)

This is mildly momentous, it’s all back home and peeling the protective film off the platform bit to reveal a shiny bit of clear plastic was the first job. 






I got a free fire extinguisher off the guy at work who does the fire extinguisher servicing.  





Then found 4x polished aluminium fire extinguishers on eBay! 




So a trip to the depths of Maidstone to collect them ensued.  The bloke gave me some non co2 extinguishers too.  One of them somehow went off in the car which was great fun. My girlfriend loved it and really enjoyed the trip out, she kept asking why I bought a load fire extinguishers and when am I going to stop bringing a load of random crap home.  Then the fire extinguisher went off again. Those orange tags are not too strong it turns out and a pin fell out. 

Also bought a dual stage co2 reg a while back. Some German brand but looks well made.  The needle valve looks a bit inaccurate, despite the claim of being “highly accurate” on their website. So I will probably make my own if it turns out to be problematic. 





I feel like I’m getting to the stage which would otherwise be a normal starting point.


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## Dogtemple (20 Jul 2021)

couple of years ago I built this sideboard.   its made with IKEA's finest marble look kitchen work top and mdf black wood laminate-esque doors.







the stand is sort of matching this, although I am using actual materials rather than the make believe stuff that comes from Neverneverland or where ever Ikea came from.


I spent a while ringing round kitchen builders and stone yards for a 50x50cm or more marble offcut to use as the top.  even when its an "affordable offcut" marble or quartz is still hella expensive.

so I went a to local tile place that does marble tiles and ordered a 50x50x1cm marble bathroom tile to use the top of my plinthy stand.

I waited and waited but just like the money I sent over to the Nigerian prince a few years ago, nothing ever materialised.

then a massive stroke of luck, a guy locally wanted shot of a couple large bits of marble kitchen worktop he had sitting in his garden, totally free.  I'm all about free so I was like...




after getting some obscenely heavy bits of stone in the car I set about finding someone to cut it to size.  the stone masons were on £60 an hour and the kitchen people were worse, they made out it was a big job and will be looking around £100 minimum.

this wasn't looking good. 

then I thought out of the yellow pages and went to a local head stone maker, just the guy for the job, he had no problem with it, was just like yeah sure leave it with me I'll do it tomorrow.  £15, 4 clean cuts exactly to size.

this is what I have.



 


this will be sitting upon a bit of MDF, the MDF spreads the weight over the stand, the marble sits on that nicely and hovers over the edge of the side panels, the marble top is scratched but that doesn't matter as won't be seen and is nicely polished with no bumps.  theres a layer of zote foam to take up any imperfections and support the base of the tank, then the tank will go on top.   It’s 3cm thick so a nice hefty chunk of Carrara marble


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## shangman (20 Jul 2021)

You're my kind of person @Dogtemple. If you're going to do it... why not do it with the fabulous real stuff - and as cheap as possible to boot.

I had my bathroom sink top cut from a raw bit of stone a few years ago, and came across the same bizarre unwillingness to help attitude & madly overpriced. It is worth it though, stone is just the best material, so beautiful.


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## Dogtemple (20 Jul 2021)

shangman said:


> You're my kind of person @Dogtemple. If you're going to do it... why not do it with the fabulous real stuff - and as cheap as possible to boot.
> 
> I had my bathroom sink top cut from a raw bit of stone a few years ago, and came across the same bizarre unwillingness to help attitude & madly overpriced. It is worth it though, stone is just the best material, so beautiful.


 
Yeah totally, if you can then why not. Always end up exactly with what you want and a standard you’re happy with. I can’t justify paying anyone to do a job anymore when it’s usually quicker to do it yourself and sadly it’s usually done to a better standard than when trusted to a pro.  That marble was an exception though.  I knew I couldn’t cut it straight with a grinder and didn’t have the right tools for a good finish. 

So far this build has cost me barely anything other than time.  If I paid someone else to do all this I dread to think what it would set me back.


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## Dogtemple (23 Jul 2021)

Today I have been mostly eating acorns. 





This is the control panel for the inlet and outlet pipes. They’re powered off a car battery which will be kept topped up with a solar charger. 

Having this bit separate from the mains means it should have an element of being more dependable, environmentally better (even if only by a small amount) and also for the simplicity aspect. 





The round white thing is a timer switch, this will turn the up and down outlet relay on and off.  The idea being that it turns on at night, switches the relay to turn on the linear actuator that raises the outlet pipe.  This in turn helps oxygenate the tank by causing surface agitation.  In the morning when it’s light the switch will turn off and bring the pipe back down to its normal height. 

The digital bits on the right are two countdown timers.  They are somewhat elaborately wired to each other and another relay. 

The bottom timer counts down from a given time, then when it reaches zero it turns on for say 3 seconds then turns off again.  Then it starts to countdown again and repeats the cycle indefinitely. 

The top timer counts down from a given time, when it reaches zero it will turn a relay on.  This relay switches the polarity of the linear actuator.  It will then count down again and switch the relay off, this will switch the polarity again the other way. 

The effect of all this is that it will cause the outflow pipe to go from left to right and do so in incremental movements. 

I plan to set it to turn the linear actuator on for approx 3 seconds (which will move the outflow pipe a small amount in one direction) then stay off for an hour.  After an hour it will go on again for 3 seconds and move the pipe again a small amount.  This will continue on a loop.  The other timer will coincide with whatever timing it needs (still need to work this out) but let’s say it takes 12 hours to do all the incremental movements to move the pipe from left to right.  After 12 hours the timer counts down to zero then switches the polarity on the actuator, and it then goes back the other way and does this over and over all day everyday.  Moving left to right in small, barely noticeable movements every hour. 

The idea of all this is to circulate the water in the tank giving the best flow possible and no dead spots.  It also means no extra pumps will be required and may possibly make the filter more efficient. That’s just speculation though.  

I hope to have a video of this working soon. 

These are the relays, they’re hidden on the inside of the stand. 





I could have used arduino for all this but I preferred the cheap, simple and effective option of relays.


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## Dogtemple (7 Sep 2021)

aarrrgh!!!   long time no update...  

things have taken a bit of a turn and this has had to go on the back burner, I wanted this done by now so am scraping it together.

so this bit is the co2 reactor, as done by foxfish on here.


so I bought a 20" water filter canister thing..





bought a length of acrylic tube and found a bottle that would fit in there.   luckily my favourite chilli sauce had just run out and was a perfect fit.   so cut the bottom off and jammed it in.






the other end fits a multivitamin tube perfectly.






that couples nicely to the other end. which is here.   there is an existing hole in the top of the filter so I am passing the co2 tube through that and made another hole beside that to monitor the water temperature from an ink bird thermostat.   the co2 on the foxfish designed one goes in the inlet and bubbles up the top in the bottle, where as this one goes in near the outlet but the tube passes to the bottom of the internal tube and the co2 bubbles up to the top of the bottle.   so it just utilises the existing hole and the co2 hopefully will dissolve a little easier by floating from the bottom of the filter housing to the top.


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## Dogtemple (7 Sep 2021)

Hopefully this shows how it’s assembled better than my ramblings in the last post.


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## Dogtemple (7 Sep 2021)

As part of the rushing I got it all pieced together last night, 1am on a school night. 

There is a slight problem with hoses not fitting the heater, but I have a way around this. 

Have some sketchy old iphone images














This is far from finished but it’s very close.

I need to muck around with joining some pipes and doing the plumbing, a minor job.  Tidy the wiring and make the luminaire.  Bit of a bigger job but that’s ok. 

Dare I say, in the meantime I can start considering scaping this thing?!!


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## Karmicnull (8 Sep 2021)

Dogtemple said:


> This is far from finished but it’s very close.


I know exactly what you mean!  Reckon you should get going on the hardscape thinking - keep the momentum up!


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## Dogtemple (9 Sep 2021)

Karmicnull said:


> I know exactly what you mean!  Reckon you should get going on the hardscape thinking - keep the momentum up!




thanks, I have the eagerness I'm just strapped for time and circumstances are rapidly changing.  but its ok I think about it quiet a lot, so not lost my mojo.

with the scape I have always wanted it to be lush with added CO2 to help things along but yet be relatively minimal.

I was going to use a lot of negative space along with branchy wood coming out of the surface with loads of plants in the corner.

now I am thinking I may do this but only with java fern and moss.    the only substrate being sand and no soil, with the plants getting their nutrients from the water column, if thats possible.  I guess it would be with java fern and moss as they don't have roots.

I always wanted these plants, but these plus more stem plants etc.

I'm just thinking for the sake of easier upkeep and a minimal aesthetic that this could work.

any thoughts from those with more experience?


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## Dogtemple (9 Sep 2021)

These are my options on hardscape.  I’m thinking of tying moss to the branches, have some Christmas moss around the base and a big bushy lump of trident java fern in the middle with ada la plata sand on the base. 

Option one from the front. 




And looking down




Option two (which I think I prefer) as it creates some front to back depth 









Option three with a bit more height, thinking this might be too much though and looking cluttered.  









Any feedback on these ideas would be gratefully received.  I’m undecided here, quite open on this bit.  If I would be making a big mistake I’m doing this I would be pleased to hear about it!


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## shangman (9 Sep 2021)

Personally I would go with the last one, I don't think it looks too cluttered, and when everything is covered in moss you won't be able to see the different bits much. Also it gives you a bigger area to attach emergents to.

I think your plan for 100% sand and epiphytes + moss is a really good one, I do this in one of my tanks, and that + crypts in another, and it works really well for me. It's much simpler maintenance, because you can easily move or remove the hardscape to do a complete clean if you need to. Another big benefit is when you remove the wood you can trim or retie or add to it super easily, and no need for awkward reaching. I think it's a really nice tank too, it's simple but the animals enjoy and use it the same as the high, in fact they can hide better in it than any other tank once those plants grow in. You could maybe add some dried leaves and seedpods in the bottom to add a bit more complexity to the sand and more varied habitat for the fish (literally all my fish and inverts LOVE leaves). It's easy to remove them to clean.

If you have the time, it is worth doing a dry start on the wood with the moss, I've found that looks the most natural and even in lowtech the growth is fantastic. If you don't have the time, then wrapping with thread tightly also works very well, glueing moss just isn't the same.

I know you want to use co2, but tbh with your plant choices I wouldn't bother. I know there is that narrative that co2 make everything more perfect and beautiful and luscious, but I don't think high-tech is the best technique for every plant. I have beautiful, luscious algae-free pheonix moss and java ferns, with no co2 at all. I have high-tech versions too, and I think the petite growth of Java fern is nicer (especially trident), and the pheonix moss has much more texture and form, with excellent dense growth in my lowtech tanks; in the high-tech the pheonix moss is larger and fluffier, and java fern is bigger and spindlier, a bit denser growth, it doesn't actually look better tbh. The growth rate of lowtech is p good too, the initial start is slower but I have good rates of growth and have to trim back regularly (not too often tho).

Plus it's frankly less work, significantly. I love having my high-tech tank but I wouldn't have more than one. Whereas I have 2 lowtechs and I'm planning a third. If you really want to do it for your one tank there then isn't any harm in that, but you just might not need to and could get just as good or better effect.


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## Dogtemple (10 Sep 2021)

shangman said:


> Personally I would go with the last one, I don't think it looks too cluttered, and when everything is covered in moss you won't be able to see the different bits much. Also it gives you a bigger area to attach emergents to.
> 
> I think your plan for 100% sand and epiphytes + moss is a really good one, I do this in one of my tanks, and that + crypts in another, and it works really well for me. It's much simpler maintenance, because you can easily move or remove the hardscape to do a complete clean if you need to. Another big benefit is when you remove the wood you can trim or retie or add to it super easily, and no need for awkward reaching. I think it's a really nice tank too, it's simple but the animals enjoy and use it the same as the high, in fact they can hide better in it than any other tank once those plants grow in. You could maybe add some dried leaves and seedpods in the bottom to add a bit more complexity to the sand and more varied habitat for the fish (literally all my fish and inverts LOVE leaves). It's easy to remove them to clean.
> 
> ...



thanks thats some good advice.    I would like to use a little bit of CO2, just as I bought all the stuff and designed it with CO2 in mind.   surely using a bit of CO2 will help...?

I am also thinking that in the future, if I just do sand and a choice selection of moss and java fern to start with, I can always add more in the future.

I would rather have good quality healthy growth and easy maintenance for the next couple of years then build on that when I'm more confident.    I'm sure there will be a lot to learn through experience.

more I think about it, this is probably the right way to go.   low tech but with some CO2 to help things along and not over complicate it.

if I can get a healthy big bushy java trident in the middle of that wood along with moss I would be happy with that. (and no algae!)


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## shangman (11 Sep 2021)

You can definitely still use CO2!! It's just that in this case your main plants don't need it to grow well like so many others do. Using CO2 does make the plants grow faster, especially at the start, and with trident java fern I've found it ironically actually requires no CO2 in lowtech, but LOADS in hightech to grow well, so it is a good plant to grow and test with to get your CO2 right for future plants. Either way with these plants lower light will work great and keep you with no/less algae so it's much easier.

You can definitely add in the future and I think you should! Just a few mixed epiphytes in small amounts dotted about like buce, anubias, different unusual mosses (I'm currently obsessed with cameroon moss in a hightech, it is much more special with co2), bolbitis, etc will add a beautiful richness to the scape, and be easy to attach with a bit of thread, it gives it a really nice terrarium look and all of them grow quite slowly and only need the occasional trim.


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## Dogtemple (12 Sep 2021)

shangman said:


> You can definitely still use CO2!! It's just that in this case your main plants don't need it to grow well like so many others do. Using CO2 does make the plants grow faster, especially at the start, and with trident java fern I've found it ironically actually requires no CO2 in lowtech, but LOADS in hightech to grow well, so it is a good plant to grow and test with to get your CO2 right for future plants. Either way with these plants lower light will work great and keep you iu with no/less algae so it's much easier.
> 
> You can definitely add in the future and I think you should! Just a few mixed epiphytes in small amounts dotted about like buce, anubias, different unusual mosses (I'm currently obsessed with cameroon moss in a hightech, it is much more special with co2), bolbitis, etc will add a beautiful richness to the scape, and be easy to attach with a bit of thread, it gives it a really nice terrarium look and all of them grow quite slowly and only need the occasional trim.



cool that sounds good.  ill likely go with something like that.  I was going to use rotala as a background plant but didn't have much else planned beyond this.  it was going to be a discovery and trying all different sorts of things.  that will come later down the line now.

I just need to think about the fish now, originally it was going to be shrimp and dwarf corydoras but having seen a thread on here recently about them going in to hiding I have been thinking about Norman lampeyes instead.  they're one of my favourites and used to keep the lampeyes years ago


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## shangman (14 Sep 2021)

Dogtemple said:


> cool that sounds good.  ill likely go with something like that.  I was going to use rotala as a background plant but didn't have much else planned beyond this.  it was going to be a discovery and trying all different sorts of things.  that will come later down the line now.
> 
> I just need to think about the fish now, originally it was going to be shrimp and dwarf corydoras but having seen a thread on here recently about them going in to hiding I have been thinking about Norman lampeyes instead.  they're one of my favourites and used to keep the lampeyes years ago


Journey of discovery is exactly what a tank should be  

How big is your tank? I have pygmy corydoras and they are a delight, but I have 25 in a 180L. I think the larger number makes a big difference, they are very active. I also have lots of other fish, if I was more minimalist I would've kept like 40 in a tank my size. When I kept 10 in a 45L they were much quieter, and a few died so I have 7 and they were very still and didn't eat in front of me at all. If have the tank space to keep 20+ in your tank you'll have no problems, they are 100% one of my favourites along with the apistos. But lampeyes are stunning too, when I first bought fish it was a really close match between them and another fish, they're so hauntingly beautiful.


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## ScareCrow (14 Sep 2021)

I agree with shangman. The third one would be my preference. I also like emergent growth and mainly focus on mosses, liverworts, buces and ferns. I've not really kept anything else for the last 12 years. I've given up trying to make harder to keep things work and just go with what works for me and trying to improve my husbandry of those species. Far more rewarding to see steady growth, than nursing something to survive rather than thrive, just to see it suffer when I forget to dose or have the audacity to leave the tank for a few days.


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## Dogtemple (14 Sep 2021)

thanks guys, I am not seeking to have rare species that are hard to keep so I'm happy with ferns and mosses, I just want a really healthy lush looking tank with one species of fish and RCS.

so moss and fern are great as I love the look of these plants.

my tank is 50cmx50cmx31cm.  I think thats approx 70ltr?   good for a bunch of dwarf Cory?  I would like a good group of them but I'm not in to cramming loads of fish in to a small space


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## Dogtemple (16 Sep 2021)

Did a little bit of arranging last night and got the vertical bits of wood in a bit of a curve and the horizontal piece reaching out to the front just sort of hovers over the bottom of the tank.   Happy with this so will be tying it up and siliconing it to make it one tangle of wood.  Should make for easy tank cleaning as well as it will all come out as one piece.


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## shangman (16 Sep 2021)

Dogtemple said:


> thanks guys, I am not seeking to have rare species that are hard to keep so I'm happy with ferns and mosses, I just want a really healthy lush looking tank with one species of fish and RCS.
> 
> so moss and fern are great as I love the look of these plants.
> 
> my tank is 50cmx50cmx31cm.  I think thats approx 70ltr?   good for a bunch of dwarf Cory?  I would like a good group of them but I'm not in to cramming loads of fish in to a small space


The footprint of 50x50 is really good, that depth makes a big difference. I think you could get a group of 20 with that size tank easily especially with only shrimps as tankmates, maybe more (I'd start with 20 and see how it goes and if you think more would be enough, or maybe they will breed for you).


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## Dogtemple (7 Oct 2021)

Got a few hours to myself today. So I’ve more or less completed the tank setup, the light fitting is the last thing to do.  

I guess I’m nearly at the normal starting point.  

I started to loose patience a little bit with the wiring and plumbing, I was going to make it all tidy and hidden but I just want it to work now.  So the last bits are a bit sloppy. But it should work.  Nearly at every turn I had to overcome something not fitting right and try find ways around it.   Such as the tubing not fitting to the heater, which lead to going out in the rain at 11pm chopping a bit of the garden hose off and boiling it to make it fit.  Stuff like that.  

I can now consider getting this filled up with plants and water etc. 

Last thing to do is buy some WiFi plugs for timing lights and co2, a solar panel to charge the car battery that powers some of the 12v bits and weld up the light fitting.  


I am going to go moss and java trident fern to start with and build upon that.  Hopefully soon it will look more interesting!


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## Courtneybst (7 Oct 2021)

@Dogtemple  You mean you're not building your own WiFi plugs?! 😉


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## Dogtemple (7 Oct 2021)

Courtneybst said:


> @Dogtemple  You mean you're not building your own WiFi plugs?!



ha, no I've had enough of making stuff, should have just bought a tank last year and been done with it!


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## Dogtemple (9 Oct 2021)

Found that with this set up being very top heavy (total approx 80kg without water and the marble weighing a lot) it had a slight side to side wobble.  This is partly due to the small footprint and height but even so it would get worse when filled up.   Just in case anyone else goes down the route of making a tall plinth stand, I am posting this bit as it could be of use to someone.  Found that putting a cross brace along the back sorted this problem right out. It’s very rigid now and hopefully will be fine when filled.


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