# Introducing fish into a CO2 set up



## bogwood (18 Jul 2010)

Just curious, any tips , best way to do it.
As  a experienced fish keeper i have no issues how to do it normally.
However, now i have pressurised CO2 ive started only introducing fish , several hours before it comes on, and in fact tempted to keep it switched off for 24 hours.
What do others do?


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## Dolly Sprint 16v (18 Jul 2010)

bogwood said:
			
		

> Just curious, any tips , best way to do it.
> As  a experienced fish keeper i have no issues how to do it normally.
> However, now i have pressurised CO2 ive started only introducing fish , several hours before it comes on, and in fact tempted to keep it switched off for 24 hours.
> What do others do?




Hi bogwood

Please read the attached thread short cut viewtopic.php?f=21&t=11214&start=0.

I bought some rummies whilst on the way home from Carlisle to Cheshire, I asked the shop to put as much water as possable into the bag due to the distance they would have to travel. Due to issues on the M6 the traffic wombles shut the M6 so I had to take a detour home via the M60 & M56 and back on the M6, my rummies where in the bag for approx. 4 hrs, by the time I got them home three of them were on their side due to a lack of oxygen - more Co2. Luckly I had asked my Mrs to switch off the Co2 in the morning so there would be "NO" residual co2 within the water column when i added the fish. I emptied the vast majority of the water in the bag and replaced it with my tank water - after 30 mins the three faultering fish were ok and swam out of the bag, the following day I switched the co2 on at half the bps that I normally run at and slowly increased it over the next three days until I was back to my normal injection rate. Its entirely up to you what you do - i am glad i knocked my off.

Regards
paul.


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## squiggley (18 Jul 2010)

Agree with the above method.

I was caught out when I recently added more neons to my tank. Within minutes of adding the new fish (after acclimatizing) they were all floating gasping at the surface whilst the previous occupants were fine. After switching the gas off and running a big air pump to gas of the co2 all recovered.


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## arty (19 Jul 2010)

I had a lot different species many years and never used special methods. Simply Top up Your bag with fish from local lfs with aquarium water some 50/50(lfs water + tank water) then put bag for 20min or litle longer time in to tank and after some time let the fish to swim and always everything been ok. No need any overnight keeping e.g., that only stress more for fish, fish will addapt by itself if healthy to any water conditions with or without co2 no difference.
Actualy You can put direct in to water column until Your water parameters not realy toxic and critical and fish is healthy, less stress for You and for fish. Other question if fish is very weak or sick from lfs then best option use quarantine tank for some time before going to main tank. I preffer simply refuse and bring back to lfs sick or weak fish - less risk for other fishes healthy.
Mostly fishes end life due very sick from lfs, look carefull any infection signs, white spot is common problem from lfs and sometimes impossible to see any signs but after a while You can start to see in to your aquarium infected fishes. 
Many shops keep high temperature at 29C(but nothing bad for quarantine) due mass infections,some infections masked, also one water flow for all tanks.
Buy only from trusted sources, save life to Yours other fishes and tank health.
For past years i lost  some fishes and due non healthy already from lfs. And only two species with co2 overdosing.

Best Regards,


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## Dolly Sprint 16v (19 Jul 2010)

arty said:
			
		

> Simply Top up Your bag with fish from local lfs with aquarium water some 50/50(lfs water + tank water) then put bag for 20min or litle longer time in to tank and after some time let the fish to swim and always everything been ok. No need any overnight keeping e.g., that only stress more for fish, fish will addapt by itself if healthy to any water conditions with or without co2 no difference.
> 
> Best Regards,



Arty

So how do you go on if your water is saturated with Co2.

Regards
Paul.


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## arty (19 Jul 2010)

Hi, what's difference. If You add 50% in to bag tank water with co2 that mean there will be twice less or little below co2 as in Your tank. Fish will anything adapt better. You can make diffucult process - step by step as in some other guides, add 20% then after time add 40% tank water and .. Some body told in one guide keep overnight and .. , i think all that is very complicated and not necessary.
Only stress for You and for fish, fish in small bag for long time stressed much more as in different but good parameters planted tank.
Maybe I'm wrong, but i never had any problems. If fish healthy You can even take in to hand and drop in to tank and everything will be ok but highly not recommended 
But if like some species rapsbora e.g. feel bad with 30-35ppm co2 then You can make all hard step by step adaption process and  result will be the same - fish gasping and don't like water with high co2. 
Just need keep water parameters suitable for species and fish will adapt by itself very fast.
Most problem from my lfs, there temp. 28-29C in tanks like quarantine, but anything to time when arrived to home in bag already 24-25 , sometimes below and anything never had any problems. 

P.S. Yours planted tank for fish after lfs and bag is freedom 

Best Regards,


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## bogwood (19 Jul 2010)

Flyfisherman said:
			
		

> bogwood said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for drawing the earlier thread to my attention...............failed to spot it.
That B.....y M6 { i was caught the other night for 1hour, at midnight as well]
Considering all you did well to save the fish.





			
				squiggley said:
			
		

> Agree with the above method.
> 
> I was caught out when I recently added more neons to my tank. Within minutes of adding the new fish (after acclimatizing) they were all floating gasping at the surface whilst the previous occupants were fine. After switching the gas off and running a big air pump to gas of the co2 all recovered.



Cheers s





			
				arty said:
			
		

> I had a lot different species many years and never used special methods. Simply Top up Your bag with fish from local lfs with aquarium water some 50/50(lfs water + tank water) then put bag for 20min or litle longer time in to tank and after some time let the fish to swim and always everything been ok. No need any overnight keeping e.g., that only stress more for fish, fish will addapt by itself if healthy to any water conditions with or without co2 no difference.
> Actualy You can put direct in to water column until Your water parameters not realy toxic and critical and fish is healthy, less stress for You and for fish. Other question if fish is very weak or sick from lfs then best option use quarantine tank for some time before going to main tank. I preffer simply refuse and bring back to lfs sick or weak fish - less risk for other fishes healthy.
> Mostly fishes end life due very sick from lfs, look carefull any infection signs, white spot is common problem from lfs and sometimes impossible to see any signs but after a while You can start to see in to your aquarium infected fishes.
> Many shops keep high temperature at 29C(but nothing bad for quarantine) due mass infections,some infections masked, also one water flow for all tanks.
> ...


quiggly.
Same with me, been building up my fish stocks from nothing to 40 odd. The existing ones are fine, and the new ones stay ay the surface for several hours.
In fact on one occasion the shrimps climbed onto the floating plants.

Thanks for all your help guys.  
Whilst i have not lost any yet, i think i will play it safe, and introduce early in the morning before CO2 comes on, and slow the co2 down for 24 hours.


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## arty (19 Jul 2010)

I think You have o2 problem , not co2. Co2 and o2 independent gases in water. You need raise o2 levels if shrimps go to surface too, make surface agitation with some powerhead or pump and then readjust co2 injection.

Best Regards


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## bogwood (19 Jul 2010)

arty said:
			
		

> I think You have o2 problem , not co2. Co2 and o2 independent gases in water. You need raise o2 levels if shrimps go to surface too, make surface agitation with some powerhead or pump and then readjust co2 injection.
> 
> Best Regards



Hi Arty. Thanks for your thoughts.  

Not really to sure if its O2. 
The problem only happens when new stock are added, after a few hours, all is normal, and they behave perfectly. Maybe im just being over cautious.
Prior to using CO2, all new stock would dart to the bottom, and hide for several hours. Thats what perhaps im more use to.
Listening to other peoples experiences, at least it happens to others, in similar situations.

I do have a powerful hydor, that does create good surface movement.
Co2 is new to me, and im still learning. But i have two drop checkers, in different positions, and manage to keep them reading Green, for lights on. So far not had a bright yellow.


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## arty (19 Jul 2010)

With dropcheckers  tricky, use only proper 4dkh water solution + br.blue(test reagent), clean perefectly before top up.
I overdosed in my first 2 days after start injecting due my fault, visualy green but in reality there been yellow, all around tank background dark blue and in result dropchecker looks green .

Best Regards and Good Luck !


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## Dolly Sprint 16v (19 Jul 2010)

arty said:
			
		

> I think You have o2 problem , not co2. Co2 and o2 independent gases in water. You need raise o2 levels if shrimps go to surface too, make surface agitation with some powerhead or pump and then readjust co2 injection.
> 
> Best Regards



Arty
Fish require H2O to survive, they comsume the oxygen and give out Co2 which is comsumed by the plants during photoperiod and the reverse process happens with the plants for the fish, if the there is a greater concentration of residual co2 gas within the water column these fish will go to the top gasping for air. My concentration of co2 within the water column is high - directly after a water change my dc's are dark green by the end of day my dc's are yellow and my fish have adapted to this high level. When purchasing fish, if they are in the bag of water for a long period of time the Co2 levels within the bag will be high as the have removed the residual oxygen from the water, so by adding water from the tank which is also high in co2 will not help the fish acclimatize to the tank water just compound the problem. 

If any fish go to the top of the water - gasping for air then "Yes" the injection rate is too high and it need to be adjusted, to remove residual gas quicker is to carry out a big water change / heavy surface agitation - what we are saying / asking is - why put these new fish under the stresses, they are stressed out enough: 
A. being caught in a net
B. shoved in a plastic bag
C. travelling time.
D. New surrounding etc.

So the easiest why is to vent all residual co2 gas from the water column, acclimatize fish to there new surroundings, commence injecting Co2 at a lower rate and tweek co2 levels over a couple of days or even a week.

Regards
paul.


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## Dolly Sprint 16v (19 Jul 2010)

Hi - All 

The best why to check the colouration of any DC is to remove it and place it front of a white piece of water - what looks like lime green under water will be yellow once removed from the tank.

Caught me out once - little otto doing several death roles, my initial thought were - what the hell is he or she doing that for, then it dawned on me.

Regards
Paul.


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## arty (19 Jul 2010)

Hi again Flyfisherman,
Sorry but i don't agree. Fish need O2 not only h2o(water), try disable any co2 and cover tank with something for long time period and does not matter what's water flow e.g. and then You will see result. Fish can't consumpt o2 from h2o, h2o is water and water is water  not gas.
In daytime period Yours plants use co2 and produce o2, but if plants don't produce then only way to livestock get o2 from air via surface agitation.
O2 going in to tank from Air via surface agitation-movement together with all other gases what present in air, co2 too, that why some plants in low tech can very good grow and live if near at bottom some diffuser simply from air pump, plants get little co2 from air and tank gets o2.

About fish consumtion o2 i agree, result co2, but there is small concentration in bag - more in yours bag air compartment, because when shaking gas come out from h2o, any gas is lightweight and go out from water, that only time question.
And why i told best and simply aclimatisation via same bag for short time - less stress to fish, gain same temp. as in tank water when keep some half hour and adoptation to same water parameters as in tank when You add tank water.
CO2 not only one parameter what is important.
I tried before qurantine tank and think that is waste of time, nervs , resources and stress for fish.
If fish weak or sick i simply don't wanna buy and all.
If You decrease co2  levels in tank for adoptation then i think You can get only stresed other fishes and plants.
Fish adapt to higher levels faster as with lower.
Like for example temperature - fish can adapt fast from 25C to 29C, but if reverse from 29C to 25C then adapt very slowly and very sensitive, the same on salinity and i think other parameters too.
From my expirience if fish healthy You can change temp. and any parameter in 5 sec dramticaly and everything will be fine.

1 year ago due my heater fault i boiled a lot fishes in my low tech kitchen tank, i don't remember exact temperature but been over 45C, believe or not i removed all fishes from boiled water direct to 25C tank, all fins, skins been dramaticaly damaged-boiled, after couple of months fishes been recovered and only 2 fishes died.

Best Regards and Have a Nice Day !


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## bogwood (19 Jul 2010)

Flyfisherman said:
			
		

> Hi - All
> 
> The best why to check the colouration of any DC is to remove it and place it front of a white piece of water - what looks like lime green under water will be yellow once removed from the tank.
> 
> ...



Never has a truer word been spoken.  
 I was not aware of this initally, until i came across it on the forum.
First time i tried it, i could not believe how much easier it was to read.
My lad has the JBL one, not the most attractive, but once we realised why it had a built in white background, Ive changed my opinion of it.

Cheers.


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