# Silicate - Brown Algae



## Paulo Soares (22 May 2015)

Evening folks,

The bottle on the left has tap water from the house and the bottle on the left is from the tank. 
In the middle is the colour chart. 

Lookiong at it i can say as you can too that i have more than 2 MG / Litter of silicates in the tank. 
Looking for a solution to this issue they all end up by removing also Phosphates as so silicates. 

So as i have a planted tank i can´t remove phosphates cause they are needed. 






So.. how in the hell am i gonna solve this? 

Give up from the hobby. (?) i´m strugling with this for so long that i really am considering givin up..

Best compliments


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## Paulo Soares (22 May 2015)

What is really important: 

SIO2 or SIO3 ?


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## Julian (22 May 2015)

Rain water, RO maybe? Not sure my friend.


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## ian_m (22 May 2015)

Indicating test kit'itus due to something else...I doubt the readings are true, not that silicate will cause issues in a planted tank. I think silicate tests are influenced by presence of nitrate so are fine in marine tanks with low nitrates but useless with tap water and fresh water aquariums.

Solution is spend a fortune on RO equipment chasing something that is not an issue or work with the water you have got and get on with a planted tank.


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## parotet (23 May 2015)

My brown algae problems (in mature tanks, not in new established tanks) have been independent from the kind of water used. I mean I've been using hard tap water and I've had sometimes problems and other times they did not appear. IME dirt filter, clogged sponges, dirt tubing and/or organic debris in the tank were the problem.
I agree with Ian, the best water is the easiest to get. If water is a mess you will end up with less WCs, less amount, etc. What about a rainwater source? Leaving in the Mediterranean (barely 450 liters per year) I have managed to find a free source. I'm sure that around you there is a chance of harvesting rainwater. Your flat, neighbors, town hall, public buildings? It may sound strange when you explain it, but everyone will understand it. If it is really a worry, you will be able to mix it with your tap water to reduce nutrients or whatever, and you will reduce your water footprint

Jordi


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## Christos Ioannou (23 May 2015)

During a diatom invation in my 6month old tank I too read about silicates causing diatoms. As per various sources, this belief is because diatom shells are made of silicates. Sources also suggest that higher intensity light helps remove diatoms.

My experience:
In this order:
1. Manual removal of as much as possible.
2. Less light
*3. Clean filter thoroughly
4. Add purigen*
5. 50% wc every 2nd day for a week
6. *Clean filter thoroughly again*
7. Add ottos/nerite snails

Do not give up! All experiences good or bad are necessary!


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## ian_m (23 May 2015)

ian_m said:


> I think silicate tests are influenced by presence of nitrate so are fine in marine tanks with low nitrates but useless with tap water and fresh water aquariums.


My bad, silicate tests are influenced by phosphate, can't rely on result with phosphate present in sample water.

I have had diatoms numerous times, nothing to do with water quality. Once couple of weeks/months after startup and again after major major plant and substrate rearrangement.


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## sciencefiction (23 May 2015)

I don't know why it's so hard to believe that diatoms are caused by elevated bioload the tank has been presented with and can't deal with on it's own.
Right now in a fry tank I have which is an old established tank I started feeding 5-6 times a day to raise the fish faster. I got diatoms again in it in no time which is always the consequence. And it's the rule why they appear, excessive bioload, elevated ammonia production.


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## Rodrigo Isaac (23 May 2015)

If you have a small aquarium can always mix bottled water with tap water. I had some problems in my 30 liter tank (it's very small) and resolved this way.


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## tmiravent (23 May 2015)

Very nice question Paulo! Never thought about that...

I don't know if SIO3 is influenced by PO4 or not (in sera test case), but some question pop in my mind:
- did you mange to know your local water supplier the SIO3 real levels? Do they match the test?
- Diatoms are normal in a recent aquarium (they exist in some amount in all tanks, i believe...). Do you have any neighbors with similar fresh water aquarium?
- Do they mange the issue with diatoms? or SIO3 is lost cause in your area?

Paulo, the good thing in this hobby is that we never know everything, there's always something to learn, to test, to doubt, to argue...
That is the funny part, every person that i speak as a different feedback about the hobby.
I believe if we could control everything in the hobby i would quit! (not funny to me!)

I started the hobby more than 10 years ago. Stooped a few years and when returned (3 years ago) everything was different!
I felt like learning from scratch! During all this time never understood why there was a SIO3 test (even now trying to get it!)...
So why quit the hobby? you'll miss all the fun!
Cheers!


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## mr. luke (24 May 2015)

My shrimp tank using ro water, active subastrate and wood decor (no silicates) also had a diatom stage so i wouldnt be concerned about the silicates


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## dw1305 (24 May 2015)

Hi all,





Christos Ioannou said:


> I too read about silicates causing diatoms


 It is all untrue, it is like a lot of things it starts from a fact "_Diatoms build their frustules from silicon_", but after that it all goes down-hill. It is like saying plants need nitrogen to grow, and the air is 70% nitrogen and therefore the plants nitrogen requirements are met by adding more air to you aquarium. 

Diatoms need orthosilic acids to grow, and these silicic acids are formed by the acidification of silicate salts (such as sodium silicate in aqueous solution) at high pressure in deep oceans, before reaching the surface water in ocean up-wellings.  

Glass, quartz, <"diatomite cat litter"> are all silicon based, but it is silicon (silica oxides (SiO2, SiO4)) and extremely hard and totally insoluble. That is why sand is made of silica, everything else is softer and more soluble.

Diatoms are incredibly efficient at extracting silicon from the smallest traces of silicic acid, and they occur in nearly all water, including in the soil etc. All tank water will support diatoms.

cheers Darrel


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## Paulo Soares (25 May 2015)

Morning folks,

I aprecciate all replys, and give thanks for your interest and help. 

But some of them are out of the equation such as clean filter, too much biodegradable stuff in substrate, Co2 and others cause this appointments are always good in the tank as I don´t get sloppy or careless on it.


From a lot of readings that I found in the web, I think Silicates can not be a issue for Diatoms but either stuff. Or in others words the diatoms can´t be fed by silicate.

And other thing is that if this amount of silicate represents a problem or a cause for diatoms apearance than quite a few thousands here in Portugal would have the same issue as I get in touch with some City Halls of my country questioning about the amount of Silicates and they all claim to be normal in our tap water.


One thing is for shure.. I´ve found some aquaristic friends in a range of 50 Kms area (the area being in responsibility of my city hall department) and visit also some two stores and measure silicates with my own test kit and the results were quite the same and none of them has this issue in theirs tanks.


So.. what am I going to do is to give even less food, and once again change lights to the best fit I have ever had before considering results . (twice T5 39W 6500 k at a 25 cm upper level from the water ) cause for now I can´t figure out any other changes such as remove or change substrate. (See below with “A”)

And I thing I should reduce also the Co2. (See below “B”)


Remove this Coulour extreme 15.000 K.

Do some more WC and let´s see if it works fine.


Important Note: About 15 days ago I put some plants from this same tank in another 30 liter tank I used to have as maternity.


Without Co2 and with 30W (the same value as this one 1W per liter) and with the same Ei and with new substrate.

They are growing well and so far without any sign of diatoms… so far. But let me tell you they look awesome.


So let´s think a little.. without Co2 and new substrate but same amount of light and same Ei and doing fine..

This leads me to the substrate isn´t that so? (“A”)


The presence of Co2 couldn´t be a issue unless if it is being injected in high amounts that are not being consumed (?). As Co2 is a Macro nutrient.

I thing I should reduce also the Co2. (“B”)


Best regards


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## ian_m (26 May 2015)

Paulo you cannot rely on the silicate test results in the presence of phosphate, like will be present in your water supply and your tank. These kits are fine for marine keepers, as generally they have low to zero phosphate levels in their tanks so does not influence the silicate test results. All you have done is probably measured phosphate levels with your silicate test kits and are now chasing a problem of your own invention that is not really a problem.

Please do not use silicate test kits (unless the $600 Bosch Lomb kits) with freshwater tanks, the results will be meaningless as will most likely always indicate silicate present.


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