# Manufacturer of custom canopies?



## PBM3000 (25 Oct 2017)

Anyone know of a manufacturer of canopies for tanks?  Since fitting the Fluval Fresh & Plant 2.0 for my Roma, the light spill is pretty aggravating as it illuminates the entire room and distracts from the tank. I'm using clear, walled polycarbonate sheeting - which isn't helping. 

It'd need to house/incorporate the LED strip somehow.

Or am I going to have to DIY it?  Any advice welcome.


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## PBM3000 (26 Oct 2017)

I'll take that as a 'no'!


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## Chubbs (29 Oct 2017)

I don’t have an answer I’m afraid but I do have a Roma 240 with a 59w and 46w fresh and plant 2.0, both sit under the existing canopy. In fact the only modification I had to do was remove one of the feet from the 59w to squeeze it in. Otherwise they both sit within the inner lip and the lids close perfectly.

If you have the old canopy with the tube fittings rather than the LED, you can order the entire canopy from Hagen (parent company of Fluval).


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## zozo (29 Oct 2017)

A guess...  Find an custom aquarium builder, asking an LFS will surely point you in a correct direction. Aquarium builders usualy also build hoods... Or find the nearest aquarium club, these clubs certainly have a list of builders if not members with this quality. 

Another option could be measure your tanks dimensions and search for brands which possibly have prefabricated sets in the same dimension as yours and likely have the hood/canopy for sale as spare part..


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## webworm (29 Oct 2017)

Try here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Custom-M...rium-Tops-Pelmets-build-to-order/202072210015
Not used them myself, but planning on getting my next tank from them.


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## PBM3000 (29 Oct 2017)

Chubbs said:


> I don’t have an answer I’m afraid but I do have a Roma 240 with a 59w and 46w fresh and plant 2.0, both sit under the existing canopy. In fact the only modification I had to do was remove one of the feet from the 59w to squeeze it in. Otherwise they both sit within the inner lip and the lids close perfectly.
> 
> If you have the old canopy with the tube fittings rather than the LED, you can order the entire canopy from Hagen (parent company of Fluval).


A great suggestion but I only have the one LED which needs to be central.  Unless I've misunderstood?  Do you have pics?


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## PBM3000 (29 Oct 2017)

zozo said:


> A guess...  Find an custom aquarium builder, asking an LFS will surely point you in a correct direction. Aquarium builders usualy also build hoods... Or find the nearest aquarium club, these clubs certainly have a list of builders if not members with this quality.
> 
> Another option could be measure your tanks dimensions and search for brands which possibly have prefabricated sets in the same dimension as yours and likely have the hood/canopy for sale as spare part..


I might contact my local club and ask, thanks.


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## PBM3000 (29 Oct 2017)

webworm said:


> Try here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Custom-M...rium-Tops-Pelmets-build-to-order/202072210015
> Not used them myself, but planning on getting my next tank from them.


It seems their feedback (on eBay and otherwise) isn't so good (which is a shame as their designs look superb.

If I were to make one myself, what material should I use and where to buy?


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## Chubbs (29 Oct 2017)

PBM3000 said:


> A great suggestion but I only have the one LED which needs to be central.  Unless I've misunderstood?  Do you have pics?



That’s fine it will work... they’re designed for it. The metal middle section is the same height. When I’m maintaining the tank, I push these under and the fit just fine.


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## PBM3000 (29 Oct 2017)

I appreciate the swift response (and pics) but how is the central part constructed?  Would I have to drill to fit the single F&P LED strip?


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## webworm (29 Oct 2017)

PBM3000 said:


> It seems their feedback (on eBay and otherwise) isn't so good (which is a shame as their designs look superb.



Oh, eBay feedback looks ok to me. Be interested in 'other' feedback.


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## PBM3000 (29 Oct 2017)

My bad.  A Yelp review cites bad conditions for pets.  Seems the .com has some kind of redirect... http://www.yelp.co.uk/biz/aquamania-pets-and-aquatic-superstore-blackburn


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## Chubbs (29 Oct 2017)

PBM3000 said:


> I appreciate the swift response (and pics) but how is the central part constructed?  Would I have to drill to fit the single F&P LED strip?



No, the central lid is metal and it’s only purpose is to stop the plastic lids falling into the water. Otherwise the light sits under this. If you look inside your tank, there is an inner lip (this is where the Roma cable tidies clip too. The feet of the fresh and plant LEF fit in here. If you look at the photos you’ll see that they sit neatly inside the tank, below the canopy. No DIY/tools/ant really effort needed.


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## PBM3000 (30 Oct 2017)

Thanks.  I've contacted Hagen to see if they sell the canopy _without_ the LEDs. One can hope!


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## Chubbs (30 Oct 2017)

If not, try eBay or gum tree


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## zozo (30 Oct 2017)

https://uk.hagen.com/ProductCategory/ListView?urlName=Aquatic/Replacement-Parts&pg=10&perPage=24

From #15460 down ?


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## webworm (30 Oct 2017)

PBM3000 said:


> My bad.  A Yelp review cites bad conditions for pets.  Seems the .com has some kind of redirect... http://www.yelp.co.uk/biz/aquamania-pets-and-aquatic-superstore-blackburn


Ok, completely different place. The ebay one I listed ONLY does tanks, stands, and canopies, and is based in Leicester.


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## PBM3000 (30 Oct 2017)

zozo said:


> https://uk.hagen.com/ProductCategory/ListView?urlName=Aquatic/Replacement-Parts&pg=10&perPage=24
> 
> From #15460 down ?


Thanks. I’ve been in touch and they don’t supply the cover without LEDs at this time.


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## Andrew Butler (31 Oct 2017)

You can take the lid of the aquarium can't you so you are just left with the glass?
Unsure what colour the base is or other furniture in your house but you could always make or get on made from wood; whether that's ply or a hardwood then paint or varnish it to match.
If you were wanting a custom one made from metal I would imagine it would be quite costly by the time it's powder coated.


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## PBM3000 (31 Oct 2017)

Andrew Butler said:


> You can take the lid of the aquarium can't you so you are just left with the glass?


I believe you can but I understand it's not without risk.



> Unsure what colour the base is or other furniture in your house but you could always make or get on made from wood; whether that's ply or a hardwood then paint or varnish it to match.
> If you were wanting a custom one made from metal I would imagine it would be quite costly by the time it's powder coated.


I'd sooner have one made of black ABS/plastic.


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## Andrew Butler (31 Oct 2017)

PBM3000 said:


> not without risk


How are you going to remove it to replace it with something then?

Unsure how handy you are but there are products like altro whiterock which you might be able to work some magic with. If you can't remove the lid then you could probably clad over it with whiterock.

https://www.altro.co.uk/Walls


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## Edvet (31 Oct 2017)

Just looked at that Altro site, What is it? Panels? Paint?


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## PBM3000 (31 Oct 2017)

Andrew Butler said:


> How are you going to remove it to replace it with something then?


I'm happy with the existing trim - just want a lid for it to prevent light spill.


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## Andrew Butler (1 Nov 2017)

Edvet said:


> What is it?



It's a rigid but still flexible plastic (if that can make sense?!) designed for cladding walls in wetrooms, hospitals etc. It's around 3mm thick but can be scored with a knife to cut it do desired size then you can shape it and glue it - not the best explanation! You could always request a sample to look at it.



PBM3000 said:


> just want a lid for it to prevent light spill


I'm a bit lost as to exactly what you want to do if I'm honest - are you trying to just sit 4 narrow walls on top of what you have to stop the light spilling over?


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## PARAGUAY (1 Nov 2017)

It’s just a missed opportunity in the market basically,all the controllers,lighting the main manafacterers sell and surely they realise everybody is then diy or down at IKEA or on eBay.


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## PBM3000 (1 Nov 2017)

Andrew Butler said:


> I'm a bit lost as to exactly what you want to do if I'm honest - are you trying to just sit 4 narrow walls on top of what you have to stop the light spilling over?


In _simplest_ form I'd make do with just two lids running length-ways (which fit into the recess on the top of the tank edges) to prevent light spill.  If you look closely, they'd have a 'lip' which would rest in the outer grooves on the F&P.  The resulting open ends won't bother me so much and they'll aid airflow and moisture escape anyway. I'd prefer the lids to be a bit more rigid that the Fluval ones that came with it though.  I'd use them but they're too small now that there's an 'angle' to accommodate (rather than lying flat).


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## Andrew Butler (1 Nov 2017)

PBM3000 said:


> I'd use them but they're too small now


So 2 pieces of black plastic would do the job then?
I do think that the product I mentioned 'Altro whiterock' could work for you, there are cheaper versions of the product available but just watch the thickness.
You could ask altro to send you a sample which they shouldn't charge for and see what you think, as I say it can be cut with a stanley knife then just sand the sharp edge.
If you need to make cut outs it's easy to do using normal tools and if you think you need a lip then just glue one to it. If you have any problems or questions drop me a message.


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## zozo (2 Nov 2017)

PBM3000 said:


> two lids running length-ways



Are these lids just laying losely on top?. If so you could use Polyrey HPL plate, this is high pressure laminate available in all kinds of thickness and colors e.g. Black, very hard and ridgid and waterproof. It is a very durable material often used in building construction for making outdoor Fascias. You can use it as raw material and wont need to coat nor paint it with anything.

It's a rather difficult DIY material, because you would need a special sawblade to cut it. It's so hard, it will chip off when cut with the wrong blade. So it's best to find a shop that sels it in custom cut sizes. Drilling it to mount a grip, which could be decorative furniture stainless steel or plastic doorgrip/knob of your choice, you need to use a HSS drill bit.


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## Edvet (2 Nov 2017)

zozo said:


> shop that sels it in custom cut sizes


and ofcourse you have an adress in Holland for that:??


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## zozo (2 Nov 2017)

Edvet said:


> and ofcourse you have an adress in Holland for that:??


In hour country it is called Trespa® HPL (It's a trade name and manufactured in Weert) But about every shop in building material sells it, most of them can cut it for you as well. Most walmart style shops only sell the standard board sizes, can cut it for you, but then leaves you with the rest cuttings. Maybe not realy a solution if the left over is 80% of the complete standard board size. I know.. Finding a shop where you can buy custom cut only in dimensions you need, can be a challange. 

No idea about the rest of the country, but i'm lucky i happen to have one in my own town. They build garden sheds and sell all kinds of board material in any size you need. For them the material stream regulates enough to be able to offer such a service. (Go figure who cut the multiplex board in size with slids and all for my Henry goes steampunk project  ).


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## Edvet (2 Nov 2017)

Ah was wondering about that too
I just had some work done on my house, they used Trespa, see if they can saw it


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## AverageWhiteBloke (2 Nov 2017)

Andrew Butler said:


> It's a rigid but still flexible plastic (if that can make sense?!) designed for cladding walls in wetrooms, hospitals etc. It's around 3mm thick but can be scored with a knife to cut it do desired size then you can shape it and glue it - not the best explanation! You could always request a sample to look at it.





Edvet said:


> Just looked at that Altro site, What is it? Panels? Paint?



Word of warning on the Whiteroc, I install this stuff in hospitals and food prep areas, probably even have some knocking about actually. It has an active anti-bacterial coating to prevent ecoli and various other hospital super bugs. Not sure how this works, I would imagine it so smooth bacteria can't colonise on the surface but if it has been treated in some way I'm not sure if condensation run off dripping into the tank would be a good thing. Also, it won't cut with a knife even in your wettest wildest dreams. I use a jigsaw for cutting out penetrations and ripsaw or blunt wood saw for straight cuts.

Very expensive as well, I think even to the trade you are looking at around £60 per sheet ex delivery. You are supposed to use their adhesive as well which is another £40 although this would be no good as you put it on to a depth of 10mm with a toothed trowel. the back of the sheet is textured so that the sheet will key to the adhesive so I can't see why you couldn't use some other glue but it would have to be thin otherwise you would end up with an uneven surface. Would look an eyesore I reckon.

Cheaper copy products are available although you would have similar issues.


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## Andrew Butler (2 Nov 2017)

AverageWhiteBloke said:


> I'm not sure if condensation run off dripping into the tank would be a good thing


It's food safe and it's just the way its finished not a coating on top so if anything it is a very safe plastic.



AverageWhiteBloke said:


> it won't cut with a knife even in your wettest wildest dreams


I too have fitted a lot of it too and it will cut with a sharp stanley knife! - I'm not wanting to get into an argument though.



AverageWhiteBloke said:


> You are supposed to use their adhesive as well


He isn't sticking it to a wall so wouldn't need an adhesive like that. Superglue or something similar will stick this together.


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## AverageWhiteBloke (2 Nov 2017)

Andrew Butler said:


> It's food safe and it's just the way its finished not a coating on top so if anything it is a very safe plastic.



Hiya mate, this was the reason I said...



AverageWhiteBloke said:


> It has an active anti-bacterial coating to prevent ecoli and various other hospital super bugs. Not sure how this works,


Because I don't know how it works, I just know when I tried to install a cheaper product as a cost saving excercise at the local hospital the architect wouldn't have it because from their data sheets...



> Antimicrobial silver ion is impregnated into the hygienic cladding panels at the time of manufacture. This helps stop the growth of bacteria and mould which works continuously for the lifetime of the panels, reducing levels of bacteria such as MRSA, E Coli, Legionella, Salmonella and mould (including Aspergillus Niger) by up to 99.99%. PVC wall cladding is becoming more and more popular over traditional methods as it offers a range of sophisticated finishes as well as its appealing hygiene qualities.



Now I don't know what "silver ion" is and one would assume that its totally safe for humans however, would that affect friendly bacteria in an aquarium? Don't know that either so for the benefit of the OP I erred on the side of caution and pointed that out.



Andrew Butler said:


> I too have fitted a lot of it too and it will cut with a sharp stanley knife! - I'm not wanting to get into an argument though.



I take back what I said about Stanley blades, I've just tried to cut some with one and indeed after scoring it 3 times it did snap along that line, I work on price and wouldn't particularly do that especially when cutting the full length of a 3m sheet. I found scoring it runs the risk of slipping out the groove and scratching the sheet so therefore I would still reccomend cutting with saws which is a 5 minute job. if their own fitters have advised you to do this they are not cutting it as they would recommend from their own data sheet but I guess people have different techniques so whatever works for you. See below from data sheet.



> Cutting
> A jigsaw is the best method, however a fine toothed hand
> saw or circular saw with pressure guide can also be used.






Andrew Butler said:


> He isn't sticking it to a wall so wouldn't need an adhesive like that. Superglue or something similar will stick this together.



Which is why I said....



AverageWhiteBloke said:


> the back of the sheet is textured so that the sheet will key to the adhesive so I can't see why you couldn't use some other glue but it would have to be thin otherwise you would end up with an uneven surface.



Which puts us in agreement buddy, and you're right, not wanting to get into an argument, I class you as one of my friends on here and it isn't going to build the OP a lid I was just putting it out there. Still think it would look pants though but if the OP is looking for some I probably have half a sheet here around 1200mmx1200mm square.


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## AverageWhiteBloke (2 Nov 2017)

Furthermore, as much as it would gripe me, for what its going to cost to custom a lid, I think I would be leaning towards selling the hood and lights they have and getting a sit on rim led fixture and go open top or glass cover. Sometimes you need to bite the bullet.


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## PBM3000 (2 Nov 2017)

Open top and/or glass cover isn't what I want - I kind of already have that with the walled polycarbonate.  I'm trying to get rid of the light spill which seriously detracts (IMO) from the tank.


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## Edvet (3 Nov 2017)

I would just DIY a light slim wooden lid wich just slides over the edge of the tank and rests on some slats. Paint it any color your missus wants, win win
Take it of entirely to do maintenance, then put it back on.


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## zozo (3 Nov 2017)

I would do the same as Edvet..  And if you worry about the wood in combination with water. Look up Epoxy coating..  After it is cured it is safe and makes everthing waterproof. there oalso are epoxy pigments to color it..


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## Andrew Butler (3 Nov 2017)

I will just touch back on the altro; I used it as substrate supports and had no issue with unhealthy fish etc.


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## AverageWhiteBloke (3 Nov 2017)

I looked up Silver Ion Andrew out of curiosity, it says...



> Silver is widely distributed in the earth's crust and is found in soil, fresh and sea water, and the air. It is readily absorbed into the human body with food and drink and through inhalation, but the low levels of silver commonly present in the bloodstream (< 2. 3 b. mu g/L) and in key tissues like liver and kidney have not been associated with any disease or disability. Silver is not an acknowledged trace element in the human body and fulfills no physiological or biochemical role in any tissue even though it interacts with several essential elements including zinc and calcium. Physiologically, it exists as an ion in the body. Silver has a long history in the treatment of human diseases, including epilepsy, neonatal eye disease, venereal diseases, and wound infections. It has been employed in water purification and is currently used to safeguard hospital hot water systems against Legionella infections. Principle routes of human exposure to silver nowadays are through its widespread use as an antimicrobial agent in wound care products and medical devices, including in-dwelling catheters, bone cements, cardiac valves and prostheses, orthopedic pins, and dental devices. In each case, the antimicrobial properties of silver are dependent upon release of biologically active silver ion (Ag*) from metallic silver (including nanocrystalline forms), silver nitrate, silver sulfadiazine, and other silver compounds incorporated in the various devices, and its lethal effect on pathogenic organisms. Experience has shown that a large proportion of the silver ion released from medical devices not required for antimicrobial action is disseminated into tissue fluids and exudates, where it combines with albumins and macroglobulins. These silver-protein complexes are absorbed into the systemic circulation to be deposited in key soft tissues, including the skin, liver, kidney, spleen, lungs, and brain. As a xenobiotic material, silver must be presumed to present a health risk to exposed persons under some circumstances. Unlike the well-documented neurotoxic metals including lead and mercury, silver does not appear to be a cumulative poison and is eliminated from the body through the urine and feces. Excretion of silver by these routes may be a measure of mean daily intake, but since this view is based largely on the clinical use of silver nitrate and silver sulfadiazine used in burn wound therapy, its true relevance in the metabolism of silver used in the wider context of medical devices is questionable. Argyria is the most widely publicized clinical condition associated with silver accumulation in blood and soft tissues. It commonly occurs in individuals exposed to high levels of silver occupationally (metallurgy, photography, and mining industries), or consuming or inhaling silver hygiene products (including colloidal silver products) for long periods. Silver is absorbed into the body and deposited in the perivascular regions of the skin and other soft tissues as black granules of silver sulfide or silver selenide. The resulting slate grey discoloration of the skin occasionally associated with melanogenic changes, is semipermanent and cosmetically undesirable but is not known to be life-threatening.



Means nothing to me though although handy for future ref on jobs, Altro being very expensive I often get asked why and a lot of it's cheaper versions don't seem to have had this treatment, you know how it is when you tell people how much something costs and they think you are ripping them because they can get the same sheets online for half the price but obviously haven't been treated in this way.

Well off topic now though haha



PBM3000 said:


> Open top and/or glass cover isn't what I want - I kind of already have that with the walled polycarbonate. I'm trying to get rid of the light spill which seriously detracts (IMO) from the tank.



I hear you, its quite difficult to weigh up what you are trying to do here with the pic and diagram. I sort of get it but is there any chance you could do some pics of the existing lid from sides? I'm trying to work out where the light is coming from. You can get polycarb sheets in black or is that what you have used?


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## AverageWhiteBloke (3 Nov 2017)

Andrew Butler said:


> I used it as substrate supports and had no issue with unhealthy fish etc.



That's just gave me an idea though, I have a sheet of green stuff here that came as a covering protection board. I could rip that down into thin strips and use as supports


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