# Baby CRS and CO2



## mafoo

I've been having terrible luck with the survival rate of the CRS fry in my shrimp tank.

Im wondering if it has to do with the CO2 injection, as all my other parameters that i can test for a pretty much perfect (55L aquarium, tetratec 400 with intake sponge, tds 150, nitrate 5-10, nitrite 0,amonia 0)

I have diy yeast reactor that runs 24/7. 

I've seen babies on about 4 occasions now but they always disappear after a few days.

The adults are fine, as are the snowballs.

Has anyone else had luck breeding CRS in a planted tank.


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## basil

Hi - what's your temp and ph please?


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## mafoo

the temp is a solid 22˚C and the ph is 7


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## basil

Water param's appear to be okish, but maybe nudge the pH down to 6.5-6.8 ish. Almond Leaves and Almond Bark both very good for this. And make sure you have some shrimplet food. When born, they hang out in the same place for quite a while and if there is insufficient biofilm / brown algae they could simply be starving.

Other things I've found to help shrimplet survival rates are:-

Add an airstone to improve o2. Remember their natural environment is mountain streams which have higher dissolved oxygen levels than most aquariums. This will also help breeding.
Get some round pelia in!
Cut back water changes for a few weeks when new shrimps about. Switch to 10% top ups, using aged water.
Stability is king. Wether its temp, pH, o2, co2, feeding, pruning, singing, lighting, filtration etc etc etc, try to maintain the same environment when babies about. CRS are sensitive, but you can x1000 for the tiny shrimplets.
Oh, and as you've already pointed out it could well be Co2 related........


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## mafoo

I've removed the CO2 and I'll see how that goes - Best to change only a few parameter at a time me thinks. Ive been changing the water with RO as the tap water here is liquid limestone (300+ tds - ph close to 8, 40+ ppm nitrate).

I had some mini pellia in the tank, but it was on some landscape rock that i removed a while back because it was hardening the water quite a lot. I've got a bit of it growing on some lava rock in my main tank that ill transfer once its established a bit more.

The tank shouldn't suffer a lack of bio film. Lots of willow moss. There's also a chunk of driftwood covered in fissidens and a few lava rocks also covered in fissidens - and i leave the back panel of the tank un scraped.

Thanks for the advice.

heres a terrible pic of the tank as it is at the moment.


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## plantbrain

CO2 will dramatically reduce brood production. I found ferts to cause no issues with brood production.

Activity levels and brood increases a good deal without CO2.
Excel also has a similar effect, but not as much.


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## John S

plantbrain said:


> CO2 will dramatically reduce brood production. I found ferts to cause no issues with brood production.
> 
> Activity levels and brood increases a good deal without CO2.
> Excel also has a similar effect, but not as much.


 
Tom are you talking about shrimp only or does this apply to fish as well?


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## basil

plantbrain said:


> CO2 will dramatically reduce brood production. I found ferts to cause no issues with brood production.
> 
> Activity levels and brood increases a good deal without CO2.
> Excel also has a similar effect, but not as much.



I agree 100% with plant brain!! My other hobby is fly fishing and although a slightly different species I can tell you that shrimp along with most invert species definitely look for streamy, shallow water.....no doubt because the O2 levels are higher!? And funnily enough that's where the fish are often found........,





Proof, a shrimp caught grayling from streamy, highly oxygenated water..........shrimp, YUM!!


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## mafoo

you mean these things?



I put them in my pond a while ago, they breed like nobodies business. 

Anyway - we digress. 

I've ordered up some almond leaves and I've removed the CO2 (goodbye dreams of HC carpet :'( )

Im probably going to have to chuck a few more java ferns in there to compensate for the slower uptake of Nitrates with the slower plant growth.


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## basil

Yes, java fern seem v good at that. I've also had good results with Rotala sp. Quick and easy to grow, even for a complete plant numpty baffoon like myself. Although I do really like my mossses


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## plantbrain

davem said:


> Tom are you talking about shrimp only or does this apply to fish as well?


Shrimp, fish do not seem to care much, at least warm water species. Trout are about as touchy to water quality and temp as they come.

I've breed Royal Farowellas and a dozen others at 50-70 ppm CO2 at 7-9 ppm O2 for a few years. 
CRS, high grades will bred at warmer temps and with CO2, but the brood will be low, like maybe from 12, you end up with 50 after 1 year.
Without CO2 and lower temp, say 21 C, then you end up with hundreds. Maybe more.


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## plantbrain

mafoo said:


> you mean these things?
> 
> 
> 
> I put them in my pond a while ago, they breed like nobodies business.
> 
> Anyway - we digress.
> 
> I've ordered up some almond leaves and I've removed the CO2 (goodbye dreams of HC carpet :'( )
> 
> Im probably going to have to chuck a few more java ferns in there to compensate for the slower uptake of Nitrates with the slower plant growth.


 

Try mosses, they like cool temps, which slows plant growth, meaning less CO2 demand.
Shrimp love moss also.


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## mafoo

humm, I've had a bit of a shrimp die off since i stopped the CO2 , 2 CRS and 3 snowballs dead.  Currently waiting for the salty shrimp stuff to arrive before I change the water. The only difference was an addition of a quarter of an almond leaf and a piece of driftwood.  Im hoping the deaths were due to sudden changes in conditions due to the RO water not buffering pH changes - if its not there's something horribly wrong happening in my tank. I hadn't had any losses since i introduced this brood in november.


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## dw1305

Hi all,
I know I'm biased because I only "grow" jungles, but you need a lot more plant biomass. Basically the more plants you have the easier it is to maintain high quality water. Plants have other advantages as well, this is especially true for shrimps and very small fry, where shrimplet/fry survival is dependent to some degree upon browsing surfaces.

If you have a lot of moss, it provides an immense area area for biofilm to grow on, add in some dead leaves and some plants with great roots like _Pistia_, and you have start. I also like _Ceratopteris_ in all my tanks, a great water conditioner and with good roots. A large exposed sponge filter also helps (again another browsing surface), rocks (browsing surfaces again), wood etc.

If you want a more "aquascaped look" have a look at LondonDragon's great shrimp tank thread: <[NANO] Double Opti White - Cherry/Sakura/White Pearl Breeding Colony | UK Aquatic Plant Society>

cheers Darrel


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## mafoo

Lost another snowball shrimp.

Im not sure whats going wrong. I got the water tested today and it was pH 7, GH 7, KH 7.5 (damn you landscape rock - now removed), Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, nitrate < 20.

Im wondering if these almond leaves are to blame. :-/ They were sold as pesticide free - shrimp safe. Or maybe the bogwood - but that spent 3 days in a bucket with boiling water and then another 4 in my main tank.


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## Iain Sutherland

have you switched to reminialised RO now?  otherwise this is the most likely cause, they will survive a few weeks in unsuitable water conditions but then die off.


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## mafoo

Iain Sutherland said:


> have you switched to reminialised RO now? otherwise this is the most likely cause, they will survive a few weeks in unsuitable water conditions but then die off.


Do you mean the mineralised water is the cause or the lack of it?

The test readings are before adding any minerals to the tank.

My Salty shrimp Bee shrimp GH+ arrived to day and I've added it to the barrel of RO water i just got. The barrel is in the airing cupboard coming up to a safe temperature.


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## Lindy

I have around 4 indian almond leaves, 2 banana leaves and a bunch of beech leaves in my tank and 4 berried shrimp as I was worried there wouldn't be enough biofilm for the shrimplets. You don't seem to have much moss/plants in your tank so I would suggest more leaves and moss to provide more surfaces for biofilm. Would it be worth checking the accuracy of your tds meter? I found mine out by 20ppm. I would try to lower your ph closer to 6 and gh to 6. My tap water is terrible for shrimp so I have to doctor the water too.
Good luck


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## mafoo

ldcgroomer said:


> I have around 4 indian almond leaves, 2 banana leaves and a bunch of beech leaves in my tank and 4 berried shrimp as I was worried there wouldn't be enough biofilm for the shrimplets. You don't seem to have much moss/plants in your tank so I would suggest more leaves and moss to provide more surfaces for biofilm. Would it be worth checking the accuracy of your tds meter? I found mine out by 20ppm. I would try to lower your ph closer to 6 and gh to 6. My tap water is terrible for shrimp so I have to doctor the water too.
> Good luck


Theres loads of moss and a whole piece of bogwood covered in fissidens. Its hard to see in pictures, but the back of the tank has a ton of willow moss in there.



The problem is that adults are the ones snuffing it atm since i stopped the CO2 and added an almond leaf.


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## Lindy

Oh crap. Mine were dying, one every couple of weeks. Ended up changing the substrate from akadama to ADA amazonia to get a stable, low ph. Also started using mosura mineral plus to alter my tds but don't know if any of this had a bearing on the improvements. Finding the tds 20ppm out may have been the main fix, my tds would have been down at 100-110 instead of the 130 I have now. I've also stopped feeding pellet food and have been giving them mulberry leaves(ebay-shrimpscape) which they go mental for. Because my ph very low now I'm dosing with genchem Biozyme. I run pressurised co2, just cutting it back slowly now until eggs hatch and will then raise my spraybar for maximum agitation/ oxygenation for a few weeks. Shrimp eh, who'd of thought they could be so much hastle. Its really annoying when people say oh i don't do anything special/check tds and their crs are breeding like rats.


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## Iain Sutherland

mafoo said:


> Do you mean the mineralised water is the cause or the lack of it?
> 
> 
> The test readings are before adding any minerals to the tank.
> 
> My Salty shrimp Bee shrimp GH+ arrived to day and I've added it to the barrel of RO water i just got. The barrel is in the airing cupboard coming up to a safe temperature.


 
sorry mafoo, you said you were slowly changing from tap of 300TDS to RO remineralised, was wondering if you are still doing this or if the tank is now stable?


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## mafoo

Iain Sutherland said:


> sorry mafoo, you said you were slowly changing from tap of 300TDS to RO remineralised, was wondering if you are still doing this or if the tank is now stable?


 
I switched to un Mineralised RO from Tap about 5 months ago.

Tomorrow ill start the transition to RO mineralised by the salty shrimp.

The Tds in my tank did keep creeping up after water changes - which i think can mostly be attributed to the landscape rock that was in there.


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## nimaas

mafoo said:


> you mean these things?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put them in my pond a while ago, they breed like nobodies business.
> 
> Anyway - we digress.
> 
> I've ordered up some almond leaves and I've removed the CO2 (goodbye dreams of HC carpet :'( )
> 
> Im probably going to have to chuck a few more java ferns in there to compensate for the slower uptake of Nitrates with the slower plant growth.


 
What is that picture of? I recently bought some plants and a few hitchhikers came along with them, one of them is the critter above plus 2 snails.  Is it a shrimp, if so what kind? I've never had shrimp in my tank....


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## dw1305

Hi all,


nimaas said:


> What is that picture of?


That is a UK "Freshwater Shrimp",_ Gammarus_ sp. Despite their name, they are "Isopod Crustaceans", rather than being true shrimps (which are "Decapod Crustaceans"). _Gammarus_ are quite tricky to keep in a heated tank because they have a very high oxygen requirement. _Hyalella azteca _is  very similar, but much easier to keep. This is _Hyalella_




_Asellus (_Water Hog_)_ is another more likely option, it is another Isopod, & similar in appearance, but instead of being flat from side to side, it is flat from top to bottom. These have much lower oxygen requirements and I've kept _Asellus_ in my tanks since before real shrimps were available.

_Asellus aquaticus_




cheers Darrel


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## nimaas

Thanks for the reply!  This is what I have in my tank it's hard to see- bottom left corner. I just want to make sure it won't affect potential fish. Currently I am establishing the tank, all that's in there is plants and the hitchhikers. I plan to add small fish and some shrimp in time.


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## dw1305

Hi all,
It's difficult to see for sure from the photo, but it is definitely an Arthropod. My suspicion is that it is an _Asellus_.

cheers Darrel


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## mafoo

2 more snowballs and 1 more CRS dead. 

Water parameters are fine, I have no idea whats going on here


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## plantbrain

Are you still using CO2? 

Cut that out if so.

Excel/Easy Carbo also.

The lower temps will be better, 20C etc, this dramatically reduces plant growth, so CO2 demand is less, much less for many species.

Higher O2 for shrimps also.
Fewer water changes also.

These all add up to => more brood production.

Old seasoned ADA AS is good, not new stuff.


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## mafoo

Stopped the CO2 over a week ago. Temp is at 22

Pulled another dead snowball out today . Ive stuck an air brick in today - see if that changes anything.


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## basil

Really hard to know the exact route cause. It may well now be bacterial, brought on by something else. There really are lots of variables, but you will get there be process of elimination. I lost a colony of about 60 crs, I was down to my last 2 before I got it sussed. Lucky for me the last 2 were male and female and from those I bred approx 300! 

Did you try almond / catappa or banana leaf yet?


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## mafoo

basil said:


> Really hard to know the exact route cause. It may well now be bacterial, brought on by something else. There really are lots of variables, but you will get there be process of elimination. I lost a colony of about 60 crs, I was down to my last 2 before I got it sussed. Lucky for me the last 2 were male and female and from those I bred approx 300!
> 
> Did you try almond / catappa or banana leaf yet?


 
The deaths seemed to start in earnest after i put the almond leaf in.  But that was arround the same time that i stopped the CO2

I fed them some boiled spring greens today that they are going nuts over. Lots of calcium in it i believe.

As a last ditch attempt, I've ordered some zeolite and activated carbon that im going to chuck in the canister - if that doesn't stop the deaths then im going to assume that its bacterial and go cry in a corner.


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## Shrimp Toast

Hi mafoo,

Are the shrimps dying after they are moulting? I use the Salty shrimp salts also and I have found that I have had to add extra (than recommended dosage) to get my TDS to where I want it. I keep all my bees at 180ppm.
If its nothing to do with moulting then I would definitely say bacterial, its strange but in spring bacterial problems just seem to explode in shrimp tanks! For this I would recommend large regular water changes, 50% daily for at least a week. Keep the temp as low as possible and only feed a tiny bit. I know this seems extreme but I have heard from people who have battled with this problem for weeks and ended up losing their whole collection to it.

Let us know how its going and hope you dont lose any more!


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## mafoo

Shrimp Toast said:


> Hi mafoo,
> 
> Are the shrimps dying after they are moulting? I use the Salty shrimp salts also and I have found that I have had to add extra (than recommended dosage) to get my TDS to where I want it. I keep all my bees at 180ppm.
> If its nothing to do with moulting then I would definitely say bacterial, its strange but in spring bacterial problems just seem to explode in shrimp tanks! For this I would recommend large regular water changes, 50% daily for at least a week. Keep the temp as low as possible and only feed a tiny bit. I know this seems extreme but I have heard from people who have battled with this problem for weeks and ended up losing their whole collection to it.
> 
> Let us know how its going and hope you dont lose any more!


 
I've lost 2 more snowballs since wednesday 

Im switching over from un mineralised to mineralised RO atm - so i dont think 50% water changes daily would be good until the minerals get up a bit more in the tank, should be done with that in the next 2 weeks hopefully.

The TDS is arround 160, but thats most probably due to the landscape rock interacting with the CO2 used to have in there.

Im not sure how to diagnose a moulting problem. I've seen one once before this happened where the bottom half of the shell came off but the bottom one didn't. The recently deceased all seem to have their shells intact from what i can see. Its possible they just failed to moult. I've noticed a lot of the shrimps have moulted recently - which might have been encouraged by the recent addition of the salty shrimp.

Im not sure what signs to look out for if its a bacterial infection. They seem pretty ok to me colour wise.


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## Shrimp Toast

Oh no, sorry to hear that! Ah i see, what TDS are you aiming to get the tank to when completely switched over? Hmm dosent sound much like a moulting problem then, usually would expect to see empty shells or some kind of splitting down the backs of the dead shrimps. Also 160 should be enough to let them moult okay, and you have given them greens to boost Calcium which will help. Usually its really hard to diagnose bacterial problems as shrimps tend to look fine right up until they keel over, which is a bit of a nightmare. Unfortunatly the only thing you can do is fish out the dead ones asap and try to do as much water changing as you dare to drop the bacteria population down for the others. Fingers crossed it will die down and the rest will be okay!


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## Ady34

Hi Mafoo,
Sorry to hear of your losses. It must be very frustrating when you appear to be doing everything right, yet still have issues. I have no scientific knowledge to back up this suggestion, and no real shrimp knowledge, but I have been keeping CRS in my planted nano for nearly a year now without any deaths (except jumpers) and I attribute this to good filtration through both the filters action and the plants alongside the addition of a beneficial bacterial supplement. Your tank has a relatively low plant biomass which means you will be relying heavily upon your filter and water changes/maintenance. I don't think you have given details of water change frequency and filter maintenance regimes, but with shrimp it is essential to keep wastes low so cleaning mechanical filtration at every water change is important. I too use salty shrimp remineraliser and find it to be excellent. 
I also use a concentrated bacteria supplement after every water change. I believe this could be something worth trying to supplement beneficial bacteria in your filter to ensure the shrimp aren't succumbing to anything as simple as bacterial infection. I use a product called Mosura BT-9, it was suggested to me by our sponsor FWS, who had nothing to gain financially from it as they didn't stock it.....so I purchased it from Sharnbrook Shrimp, our new shrimp sponsor, when i first set up. For the price of it and how much you use it is inexpensive, if others think it may be a bacterial issue, I'd say its definitely worth a try  I'm sure one of the shrimp sponsors will have it in stock and be able to advise you about it if you were to ask them directly.
Cheerio,
Ady.


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## brancaman

Hello, i had the same problem as mafoo considering i too have a "planted aquarium" meaning lots of co2 and ferts EI and 50% wc every week and my crs babies didn´t last long... So i decided to make one crs only tank without co2 or ferts and i now see many hair algaes and bba!  Is it possible to add easy carbo and some kind of micros/macros   crs shrimp safe? Every time i ask from shrimp keepers i get one negative reply -  choose crs or planted aquarium! 

By the way my tank is 52x26x28 - 35 Lts
 Eheim 2213 ,Jaeger 50W, 2X15W T8 6500K
3 L Ada Aquasoil New Amazonia ,  sílica sand ,alder cones, oak and almond leaves .
Flora:
 Monosolenium tenerum, Microsorum pteropus, Fissidens fontanus, Hydrocotyle tripartita, Echinodorus tenellus, Marsilea hirsuta, Riccardia chamedryfolia, Limnobium Laevigatum

Fauna :
6 Crystal Red Shrimps
Water changes every week of  5L
ph 6º. gh 2º and  kh 2º

Best regards


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## Ady34

brancaman said:


> Is it possible to add easy carbo and some kind of micros/macros crs shrimp safe?


Hi brancaman, welcome to the forum.
In answer to the above question i would say definitely yes, check out my CRShrimp nano journal linked in my signature below. I use both easy carbo and ei ferts and have built up quite a colony. I have grade A shrimp, maybe with higher quality shrimp they may be more sensitive to liquid carbon, but my lower grade A's have flourished. 



brancaman said:


> By the way my tank is 52x26x28 - 35 Lts, 2X15W T8 6500K


One thing im sure has helped my tank is the use of less demanding plants (of which from your list i have several species the same) in conjunction with low lighting levels. I think 30w of light over 35l is high, i only run 11w over 55l. This way i can dose ferts leanly which helps keep my TDS from raising too much. I have recently upped my easy carbo dosing to 1.5ml daily, which although has had no noticable effects on the shrimps behaviour, may explain a slow in reproduction....but thats just speculation. I may reduce this back down to the 1ml/day dose i have always used (pretty much as per bottle dosing recommendation).
Hope this helps.
Cheerio,
Ady.


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## Pedro Rosa

António,

Some nice information from planet inverts: Common Myth's in the Freshwater Aquarium Shrimp Hobby .:. Information on what is true and what isn't

Pedro.


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## Ady34

brancaman said:


> Jaeger 50W


Sorry, also what temperature do you have your heater set at or is it a fail safe incase of seasonal drops in temperature or overnight drops? 21-22degrees Celsius is good for CRS. A 50w heater may also produce rapid rises in temperature in a small volume of water which temperate water shrimp dont like. I was told by our sponsor freshwater shrimp that CRS will tolerate small reductions in temperature, but don't like sharp rises....just a thought.
Cheerio,
Ady.


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## brancaman

Ady34 said:


> Hi brancaman, welcome to the forum.
> In answer to the above question i would say definitely yes, check out my CRShrimp nano journal linked in my signature below. I use both easy carbo and ei ferts and have built up quite a colony. I have grade A shrimp, maybe with higher quality shrimp they may be more sensitive to liquid carbon, but my lower grade A's have flourished.
> 
> 
> One thing im sure has helped my tank is the use of less demanding plants (of which from your list i have several species the same) in conjunction with low lighting levels. I think 30w of light over 35l is high, i only run 11w over 55l. This way i can dose ferts leanly which helps keep my TDS from raising too much. I have recently upped my easy carbo dosing to 1.5ml daily, which although has had no noticable effects on the shrimps behaviour, may explain a slow in reproduction....but thats just speculation. I may reduce this back down to the 1ml/day dose i have always used (pretty much as per bottle dosing recommendation).
> Hope this helps.
> Cheerio,
> Ady.





Ady34 said:


> Sorry, also what temperature do you have your heater set at or is it a fail safe incase of seasonal drops in temperature or overnight drops? 21-22degrees Celsius is good for CRS. A 50w heater may also produce rapid rises in temperature in a small volume of water which temperate water shrimp dont like. I was told by our sponsor freshwater shrimp that CRS will tolerate small reductions in temperature, but don't like sharp rises....just a thought.
> Cheerio,
> Ady.


 

Thanks for your reply, i started looking for your journal and i wish mine would become just like yours.
So perhaps i should reduce lighting and fertilize with both macros, micros and liquid co2?
What kind of dosing should apply?
My thermometer reads 24ªC, in the beginning was 22º but a friend of mine told me to get 24º, now i´m confused.

Anyway i will start a new topic and want to apologize  mafoo for being an intruder in your topic, hope all the killings end soon


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## mafoo

I just fished out a dying CRS today. My 2nd to last berried one 

I think the signs are pointing to this being bacterial. Does anyone know where to get Furanol in this country? Or know the brand name of a human one I could persuade a doctor to give me some of that is safe for shrimps and wont nuke the filter bacteria.

Failing that - i might do an 80% water change - deep clean the filter and hoses - throw in half a bottle of denitrol in and pray that no more die.


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## basil

Mosura bt9 or genchem beta Glucans both good products for combating bacterial issues. I still stand by almond leaves and especially dried banana for their antibacterial properties.


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## bogwood

Sorry to hear of your continued losses.

Different things work for different people. After a lot of research and listening to experienced UKAPS members over recent years thisworks for me, so im sticking with it.

I have a number of ss and sss grade in my shrimp only set ups.
Never come across bacterial problems myself.( i will probably regret this)

I put great importance on over filtered, long established tanks.
Only RO water is used. Temp 21/22. TDS 130 PH 6.5 GH 5
And i basically feed. Almond. Banana Leaves, Nettles. with Biomax food once a week.
As i precaution i also use some Monsura products, at water change time. Namely....
Bio plus.
BT9
Tonic Pro.
Old sea mud
The tanks are over run with a variety of Moss...... ( bought from reliable sources)..... Weekly fert, but no CO2.


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## Pedro Rosa

bogwood said:


> Sorry to hear of your continued losses.
> I put great importance on over filtered, long established tanks.
> Only RO water is used. Temp 21/22. TDS 130 PH 6.5 GH 5
> And i basically feed. Almond. Banana Leaves, Nettles. with Biomax food once a week.
> As i precaution i also use some Monsura products, at water change time. Namely....
> Bio plus.
> BT9
> Tonic Pro.
> Old sea mud
> The tanks are over run with a variety of Moss...... ( bought from reliable sources)..... Weekly fert, but no CO2.


 
Thanks for the info.
Can i ask you how do you bring the GH to 5 using RO water?
Old sea mud have calcium and magnesium, also?

Pedro.


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## bogwood

pmgsr said:


> Thanks for the info.
> Can i ask you how do you bring the GH to 5 using RO water?
> Old sea mud have calcium and magnesium, also?
> 
> Pedro.


Hi.
 Before doing anything i note the tanks TDS.

To my 20% replacement RO water i add all the Mosura additives, plus Tropica fert.
Then i had the necessary amount of Bee shrimp mineral Gh,( only a small amount). to bring the TDS up to 130. 
If, as is sometimes the case the tanks water had crept unto 135/140, i make my mix at 120
After mixing for a few mins add to the tanks.

On testing the TDS is 130 or very close, and the GH settles at 5. PH varies from 6.3 to 6.8.
My tanks use amazonia, and wood, ( no stones which can effect the water) which no doubt helps.
This system has worked well for me, so i keep with it, stability is important.


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## Pedro Rosa

Thanks. Very good information.


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## mafoo

A few more deaths later, I've spotted some tiny white worm/leech things (about 3-7mm long tapered at both ends) in the tank. Slithering around on the driftwood etc, they might be Planaria but I'm no expert.

Do we think these are the cause of the deaths of the adults I've been having recently?

Has anyone else had experience with them. If they are then I'll grap some Genchem stuff or panacur. (what to people recommend?)


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## brancaman

Try No-planaria: No Planaria | Green Leaf Aquariums

Have one here just for precaution, never used before but other friends of mine had used and with perfect results and very secure for shrimps.


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## sciencefiction

Planaria can kill even adult shrimp if left to grow big enough.They are a carnivorous type of pest. It's normally introduced via plants and other equipment. If it's planaria and not detritus worm, then killing it is best.
Detritus types of worms that are often confused with planaria are tinner, don't have the arrow shaped head of planaria and swim in an "S" form.
But you may have two underlying issues, one too much food left overs and detritus to cause a worm infestation, and then at the same time contribute to bacterial infections.


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## bogwood

If your satisfied they are Planaria, have a look at this post.
Planaria in a shrimp tank
Planaria in Shrimp only tank. | Page 2 | UK Aquatic Plant Society


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