# 800 ltr



## Rabbit229 (26 Jun 2015)

It all starts today 
I've never had a planted tank or used co2 for that mater so it will be fun to see the outcome of this beast of a tank, I will ad pics as week, months go by.

All your input is welcome and advice as it my fist go!

Below is a list of what I have bought so far.

http://www.barlows-aquarium-supplies.com/
£380 drilled tank 84"x 24"x 24" *

http://www.cockfields.co.uk/contactus.html
£1000 lights and stand and reef link *

http://www.co2art.co.uk/collections...quarium-co2-system-for-plated-tank-up-to-500l
£300 co2 kit

http://yorkshire-co2gas.co.uk/aquarium-co2.html
£60 co2 gas

https://www.aquatics-warehouse.co.u...0Y-9UkdL0pjhCnNVHwaAn-18P8HAQ#/search/s_49592
£340 for 2 x fluval 206 and 1x fluval fx6*

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=M...System&hl=en&tbm=shop&spd=8151072312847324797
£215 power head *

http://www.finest-filters.co.uk/300...EU1FFA9rEuI1Bb2iEo1SuwL-SeLUULV19vhoCxiHw_wcB
£60 for x2 External heater

Today I've managed to build my stand, tank comes tomorrow


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## Rabbit229 (26 Jun 2015)

My first attempt off uploading a pic to this forum! Not sure how it will turn out


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## Rabbit229 (26 Jun 2015)

I have been soaking this large pice of bog wood for a week now and it is still floating!


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## Vazkez (26 Jun 2015)

Hi,

stand looking great  

Do you have the tank in yet?

Also good luck as you invest quite lot so hopefully it will be worth for you


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## Rabbit229 (26 Jun 2015)

Tank will be in tomorrow but I'm conceded about the weight. I've got a cellar under the tank. The floor is big slate stone with brick arch way under that. The floor is about 1 - 2 ft thick. It's a bit of a worry. I've been told to put some acros under the floor to support the weight. This bad boy could bring down the house !


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## 5678 (26 Jun 2015)

Keen to see how this goes!


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## Wendal_spanswick (26 Jun 2015)

Stand looks good mate but I'd add a cross brace across the bottom at the back. I'd also add another upright at the back to help support it all. Sounds like an expensive outlay so far so that stand wants to be as strong as possible. Good luck with it all.


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## Rabbit229 (26 Jun 2015)

Wendal_spanswick said:


> Stand looks good mate but I'd add a cross brace across the bottom at the back. I'd also add another upright at the back to help support it all. Sounds like an expensive outlay so far so that stand wants to be as strong as possible. Good luck with it all.


I agree I think another few braces. It is bolted to the wall but a few more straps won't go a miss.
Any how I recived my filters and co2art sent me the custom built reg! To be honest I don't know what I'm dealing with but the packaging looks awesome.


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## Rabbit229 (26 Jun 2015)




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## Miroslav (27 Jun 2015)

Hello,

Just would like to say thank you very much for the purchase.

Also if you will have any problems to set up your CO2 system please kindly contact us and we will try to help you as much as we can.

Good luck with your set up


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## Chloesdad (27 Jun 2015)

Good luck with this sounds like a great project


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## Rabbit229 (28 Jun 2015)

Ha ha think I'll be in contacting Monday ! No I'm going study youtube vids all weekend on how to


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## Rabbit229 (28 Jun 2015)

Tank arived today. I could not belive how heavy this monster is


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## RynoParsons (28 Jun 2015)

Seriously and you dont post a pic come on now time is ticking


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## Rabbit229 (28 Jun 2015)

Could swim in this beast.

I'm not to sure what the wife really thinks?


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## Rabbit229 (28 Jun 2015)




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## Rabbit229 (28 Jun 2015)

I was going to paint the back of the tank black with acrylic paint, due to the weight and size of this tank its to heavy to keep moving about, so think I'm not going to bother painting it


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## Andy D (28 Jun 2015)

Rabbit229 said:


> I was going to paint the back of the tank black with acrylic paint, due to the weight and size of this tank its to heavy to keep moving about, so think I'm not going to bother painting it



Just be sure. Better to do it now than wish you had done something with the background later. 

(I know what you mean about the weight. I have a few custom built tanks in 10mm glass and I could not believe how heavy a 2ft tank could be!)


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## Rabbit229 (29 Jun 2015)

Ugly mess here with the 2 external all going through a 3" triangle cut out. Any idea on how to cover this? Was thinking of some kind of plant?


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## Lindy (30 Jun 2015)

why don't you clad the tank stand in mdf or ply and then paint? better to do now....Might make it more acceptable to your wife. What's the point of a beautiful tank if there is an eyesore underneath it! I did this and used magnetic catches for the front panel so it just pulls off.


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## ian_m (30 Jun 2015)

Rabbit229 said:


> Ugly mess here with the 2 external all going through a 3" triangle cut out


If you are going to use CO2 you will need to get much better flow than having both the intake and outflow in the same corner.

Could you not make use of the hole already drilled in you tank for say intake and put the outflow on the other side of the tank ?

If it is an FX6 you have, Fluval sell a "rim connector" (see page 8 of manual) for getting pipes around the tanks rim.


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## Rabbit229 (30 Jun 2015)

ldcgroomer said:


> why don't you clad the tank stand in mdf or ply and then paint? better to do now....Might make it more acceptable to your wife. What's the point of a beautiful tank if there is an eyesore underneath it! I did this and used magnetic catches for the front panel so it just pulls off.


Lol it's not staying like that, bloody hell we are not that ruff, I have a company calling out this Friday to fit a front to it. Pics will follow, the company ' home stile bedrooms are doing it for £340 6 doors in dark mahogany


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## alto (30 Jun 2015)

That's a massive tank & you've now altered the physical structure of that upper support frame, you may want to confirm integrity/warranty with the tank manufacturer


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## Rabbit229 (30 Jun 2015)

alto said:


> That's a massive tank & you've now altered the physical structure of that upper support frame, you may want to confirm integrity/warranty with the tank manufacturer


Sorry I don't understand your message. What do you mean that I've altered the structure


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## alto (30 Jun 2015)

I may not be seeing the tank properly but I'm assuming those glass support strips/bracing are siliconed continuously around the frame of the tank (plus the middle support brace is also using this frame as it's contact), they are there to prevent warping (especially over time) & shearing of the siliconed joins ... I know that frameless tanks have become all the rage but silicone application & glass cuts need to be very precise, also I doubt that anyone would make a tank this size without braces - it may be that the modification you've made is not an issue, but I'd want to confirm that with the tank manufacturer.


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## Rabbit229 (30 Jun 2015)

alto said:


> I may not be seeing the tank properly but I'm assuming those glass support strips/bracing are siliconed continuously around the frame of the tank (plus the middle support brace is also using this frame as it's contact), they are there to prevent warping (especially over time) & shearing of the siliconed joins ... I know that frameless tanks have become all the rage but silicone application & glass cuts need to be very precise, also I doubt that anyone would make a tank this size without braces - it may be that the modification you've made is not an issue, but I'd want to confirm that with the tank manufacturer.


I have not made any modifications with this tank. The only modification I was going to make was painting the back of the glass black. But I've decided to leave it as the tank is to heavy.


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## alto (30 Jun 2015)

My confusion - I thought you'd made the triangle cut rather than the manufacturer
Apologies!


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## Rabbit229 (30 Jun 2015)

For the substrait I'm thinking of 10 bags of this stuff  Ebi Gold Shrimp Soil Black 5 Litre Bag. So that will be 50ltr, will this be to much or not enough.
Will it be ok to use on its own with out mixing with another substrait 




And what's it like to plant in?
I'm ordering tomorrow so as much input as possible guys


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## Vinkenoog1977 (30 Jun 2015)

Rabbit229 said:


> For the substrait I'm thinking of 10 bags of this stuff  Ebi Gold Shrimp Soil Black 5 Litre Bag. So that will be 50ltr, will this be to much or not enough.
> Will it be ok to use on its own with out mixing with another substrait
> 
> 
> ...



This is a pretty decent calculator.

If you're going to be dosing EI, there is no need for any other substrate, and even inert fine gravel would do just as well, even with crypts and swords.

Not familiar with that particular substrate, so can't comment on it's planting properties.


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## REDSTEVEO (30 Jun 2015)

Rabbit229 said:


> I'm not to sure what the wife really thinks?



Just keep the floods down to a few hundred litres and you'll be fine mate!

Good luck with it.

Cheers,

Steve


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## Rabbit229 (2 Jul 2015)

I'm having second thoughts about this build. Im concerned it's going to go through the floor! It's so heavy. 

The internal door at the side of the fish tank is getting stiff to shut, I'm wondering if I'm going to wake up and find my tank in the basement


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## ian_m (2 Jul 2015)

Few further observations:
- If your floor is stone, with big slabs and that thick then will probably be completely safe, after all I assume your internal walls are brick/stone and they rest on the same floor.
- Not too sure about the strength and load spreading ability of your frame. Whilst probably OK I would
- Place whole frame on a piece of 18mm ply board to spread the weight over all the area.
- More vertical supports at the rear.
- Make the verticals terminate like the ones in the corner in your photo. This is so the load is transferred into the horizontal members, again spreading the load. The problem with your current arrangement is all the load is transferred to the floor via the tiny end of the 7 verticals and the horizontal bits of wood on the floor do nothing for load spreading.
- Picture worth 1000 words.


 
- You must put some diagonal bracing in as it stands at the moment if I push hard at the end, there is nothing to stop it twisting and collapsing. Diagonal bracing on the back supports is fine, so that you don't block access as the front.​


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## ajm83 (2 Jul 2015)

Rabbit229 said:


> The internal door at the side of the fish tank is getting stiff to shut, I'm wondering if I'm going to wake up and find my tank in the basement



Hmmm, that is making me nervous on your behalf 

You've spent a lot of money so far. Maybe it'd be worth your while getting out a building surveyor to advise?


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## Wisey (2 Jul 2015)

With that sort of weight, if you have any doubts at all, then you need to get a structural engineer to take a look.


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## Rabbit229 (2 Jul 2015)

ian_m said:


> Few further observations:
> - If your floor is stone, with big slabs and that thick then will probably be completely safe, after all I assume your internal walls are brick/stone and they rest on the same floor.
> - Not too sure about the strength and load spreading ability of your frame. Whilst probably OK I would
> - Place whole frame on a piece of 18mm ply board to spread the weight over all the area.
> ...


Ian this is how I wanted to build it with the 18mm ply' but the house is 120 years old and the floor runs out by an inch in the middle. This left me a big problem as the ply was floating. If I was to build of that un level ply the weight of the tank would of knocked it out of plum. The left side and right side sit flush but the middle is 1 inch above the floor. Making this a tricky stand. This is why I have give it 7 legs and fixed a brace along the front to try help spread the weight.


My floor is made up buy a brick arch celling in the basement that is tied in to two steal girders that run from the front to the back of the house. Over the brick arch they is a foot of hardcore and over the hardcore they is 3inch stone Yorkshire gray flags
My thoughts are to instal 2 acros under the arch way but this is still not giving me a good pice of mind

If they is a small void under one of the flags it is liable to give and drop a few inches that will sent the tank falling over,
Even if a structural engineer says the load is safe. They is still no guarantee they is no void under the flag. This could end up with a death if this falles. Stress is sinking in right now. I've spent a pretty penny


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## Wendal_spanswick (2 Jul 2015)

Is there not somewhere else in the house with a bit more certain structural integrity that the tank could go?


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## ian_m (2 Jul 2015)

Rabbit229 said:


> The left side and right side sit flush but the middle is 1 inch above the floor


You pack out the height issues with things like this.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/broadfix-precision-wedgepacker-medium-77-x-8-x-45mm-pack-of-200/76521

Or even better used wooden laths under the 18mm ply. To get ideas of the packing height, if tiles silicone polish floor or if flags lay polythene over the top. Then put daubs of plaster onto the floor in the low bits, place on 18mm board and tap and bash till level. Wait till plaster sets, lift up and you have your heights of the daubs you cut your laths to (or packers). Or place concrete daubs on low places and place 18mm board on top and use as set, or even better, as seen here numerous times, lift up the flags (for reuse later) and lay concrete base to place frame on. Done.

If you say steel beams running front to back, probably with intervening walls supporting the steels as well and having walls on top, I suspect will be strong enough.

A large bath full to top can easily come in at 250Kg and you don't read too many stories of baths falling through floors.

In my experience (and having seen on this forum) failure occurs in couple of ways.
- Catastrophic tank failure. Side panel cracking and falling out, due to tank no longer being on a flat base. Stand (usually from Ikea) is completely unsuited for the weight and just collapses.
- Side panel cracking due to tank not being on a flat base.
- Silicone tearing in opposite corners due to tank not being on a flat base.​
The tank not being on a flat base has occurred due to either floor giving way (usually floor boards) or the stand deforming in one corner.


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## Wisey (2 Jul 2015)

This was one of the big considerations for me when choosing my aquarium. While I am living in rented accommodation and uncertain of what structure I am going to have under my tank, I went with 120 litres!


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## Rabbit229 (2 Jul 2015)

ian_m said:


> You pack out the height issues with things like this.
> http://www.screwfix.com/p/broadfix-precision-wedgepacker-medium-77-x-8-x-45mm-pack-of-200/76521
> 
> Or even better used wooden laths under the 18mm ply. To get ideas of the packing height, if tiles silicone polish floor or if flags lay polythene over the top. Then put daubs of plaster onto the floor in the low bits, place on 18mm board and tap and bash till level. Wait till plaster sets, lift up and you have your heights of the daubs you cut your laths to (or packers). Or place concrete daubs on low places and place 18mm board on top and use as set, or even better, as seen here numerous times, lift up the flags (for reuse later) and lay concrete base to place frame on. Done.
> ...


Am I thinking to much into this?
I can't pull up the flags and check. We just spent a few grand on a karndean floor!


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## ian_m (2 Jul 2015)

Rabbit229 said:


> We just spent a few grand on a karndean floor!


Well should be flat & level then, these type of tiles should be laid on self levelling compound.

If not (why not), then 18mm ply base with packing laths across each flag is the way forward.

I am not convinced that the bare ends of the 2x3 (?) timber you have used should be placed directly on tiles as if for what ever reason there is no grout under a tile, it will most likely crack the tile as well as providing a handy sponge for any spilt water to be absorbed by.


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## Rabbit229 (2 Jul 2015)

ian_m said:


> Well should be flat & level then, these type of tiles should be laid on self levelling compound.
> 
> If not (why not), then 18mm ply base with packing laths across each flag is the way forward.
> 
> I am not convinced that the bare ends of the 2x3 (?) timber you have used should be placed directly on tiles as if for what ever reason there is no grout under a tile, it will most likely crack the tile as well as providing a handy sponge for any spilt water to be absorbed by.


The floor is almost like a wave affect. Problem is moving the tank and having some were for the tank to stay for a few days until the cement went off. Only way I think would be to lay several straps of cement and sit the 18mm ply on and set it level and then build the frame on top of the level board. It's a bloody lot of work involved and I have 5 ppl living in my house. It would completely take up the living roof for a few days. Am I just being paranoid about it collapsing or what? 
I've got a company coming out tomorrow to fit out the doors on the front to make this look like furniture. Ha ha the stress one takes on' I get enough of my kids


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## Rabbit229 (2 Jul 2015)

How about strapping more 4x2 to the legs and bracing it across the 4x2 that runs across the floor? Will this help spread the weight?


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## Rabbit229 (2 Jul 2015)

I think if I use them packers you suggested Ian and pack in under the 4x2 that is not in contact with the floor and fit the timber to the inside of the legs and another 200 4inch screws I think this will work 






http://s973.photobucket.com/user/rabbit229/media/4ACC16E4-30AE-48E2-878D-023183AA822E.jpg.html


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## ian_m (2 Jul 2015)

Rabbit229 said:


> Will this help spread the weight?


Slightly, but how are you going to attach it to the existing leg without compromising the strength of that leg by drilling holes in it and find suitable bolts/screws that will take the shearing force.

Remember this is going to be over 900Kg, maybe even more, even 1000Kg taking into account tank weight and substrate. You are going to be applying 1000Kg over 7 ends of 4"x2" wood which I am sure is not good. However the 1000Kg shouldn't be an issue on a solid floor.

Here is a stand for 700litre tank using 4x2 timber the load being transferred into horizontal members. The 2nd 4x2 behind the 6 legs isn't really load bearing but stops the load bearing 4x2 bowing and stops the whole structure folding to the left or right.

You really need something like this, with maybe 8 legs. Remember water proofing as well as I 100% guarantee you will be spilling water one day....eg disconnecting you inline diffuser without draining the pipes first...

http://cnidarianreef.com/G180/






http://www.reefaquarium.com/2013/building-a-aquarium-stand/


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## Sk3lly (2 Jul 2015)

Wow what an interesting read! I wish you all the best with this tank and good luck, but if you are having doubts then you need to have them put to rest. Like others have said a structural engineer might be worth a call. Even try get someone out with experience with these builds to check over your stand. 

Ian is right, 1000kg is a lot of weight and will do massive amounts of damage if the stand buckles or breaks. You said it yourself, 'this has potential to cause death'. 

You may well be right in thinking your overthinking or worrying for nothing, but is it worth the risk??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Rabbit229 (2 Jul 2015)

I've bought 2 acro today £80 for the pair and fitted them under the fish tank


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## ian_m (2 Jul 2015)

Rabbit229 said:


> I've bought 2 acro today £80 for the pair and fitted them under the fish tank


Hmm this is serous now, my feeling is you really should get a structural engineer in to cast an eye over.

Using my limited trying to remember building knowledge and having used Acro's to help remove supporting walls.
- Acro's are temporary only.
- They do creep (actually usually the ground) and must be checked and tightened.
- You must fix the beam to the top of the Acro (big nails is fine) to stop the beam falling or "popping" out.
- What is floor end on ? Normally a timber sole plate (or cut off builder planks) a foot either side of the sole plate is/can be used.
- Your ceiling is angled, your beam isn't, a possible issue here, causing beam to pop out.

Looking at your arched ceiling and from what you have said I think your floor is plenty strong enough, it will be coming in at a couple of tons per sq meter already and adding another ton probably isn't really that much.

So rather than wrecking your room with Acro's maybe a structural engineer. Try local council for a number.


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## Rabbit229 (2 Jul 2015)

Hmm this will cost a few hundred pound for him/her say no don't do it' just to cover there own backs. it's looking like I've spent a hole lot of money for nothing

I just spent £200 on substrait


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## alto (2 Jul 2015)

Do you have home insurance that covers water damage etc from aquaria? (only a couple providers offer this in my area, most won't insure the actual aquarium/contents but will cover house structure/furnishings etc)


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## ian_m (3 Jul 2015)

Personally I would think your floor/house is fine. It looks like the wall behind your tank goes down into basement and is a supporting wall, thus putting tank next to it won't be an issue. Most of the floor and aquarium scare stories you read on the web are in US (or Canada) where wooden houses and wooden floors are almost 100% of housing stock and siting of big aquariums not in the basement is almost a builders job every time.

What I would be severely worried about is your stand is no where near "man enough" and isn't spreading the load properly and will be prone to twisting collapse and isn't water proof. You really need a stand (out of steel ?) like in the picture above spreading the load, probably 8 verticals of two pieces of 4x2 and 4x2 running horizontal along the floor spreading the load.

If you search the "Internet type thing" for leaking tanks, most cases where tanks are leaking at the silicone is where the silicone has torn due to tank twisting due to tank being sat on non flat or collapsing stand.

So I would concentrate on getting the stand correct and not worry (too much) about your aquarium making an unscheduled trip into the cellar.


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## Rabbit229 (3 Jul 2015)

Ian thanks for all your input, I've been on the phone to a structure engineer and just got of the phone to him. He advice not to do it with out taking up the flags and installing a steal frame under the tank. With the house and floor being over 100 years+ he mentioned about the material may have become porous. He did say it's a gamble. It may or may not take the weight. The only way to be 100% sure is to take up the floor and instal steal ( this will run in to 5k plus )
I'm really gutted about this now as I've spent so much but I'm not willing to put my family's lifes at risk. This could actually kill all my family if we are sat on the sofa and the floor shifts and we all end up in the basement with the huge tank on top of us. It's not worth thinking about.

So who Whats to buy a 7x2x2 tank 

It's not a total waist as I'm going to buy a smaller one and put between my chimney stack. I'll just have a few pumps spare


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## Wisey (3 Jul 2015)

This is a shame, but like you say, it is really not worth taking the risk. I'm sure you will get lots of pleasure from a smaller tank and seeing as this is your first planted aquarium, you may well have more success learning and making the mistakes on a smaller tank where it is easier to get flow and distribution right, then progress to a larger tank at a later date.


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## Edvet (3 Jul 2015)

If the walls are sturdy enough you could have a frame welded and bolted to the wall, i have that at my work.


 
I had it made with a 400x50x50 cm tank in mind.
But a local blacksmith could make that frame (5x5 cm tube) and i used chemical ankers (dont know the english term). If need be make the bolt all through the wall and with a steel plate on the other side.


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## Wisey (3 Jul 2015)

From my experience of Victorian housing stock in the UK, the walls are probably held up by the wallpaper and you really would not want to hang a picture on them, never mind a 1000kg fish tank


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## ian_m (3 Jul 2015)

Can you put your tank in your basement ? Will most likely be a stronger floor there.


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## Rabbit229 (3 Jul 2015)

I really wish I could. The weight of this tank alone is so heave even I was struggling with it and I'm a big guy. We had 4 men on it ant it was not easy. They is no way of getting it down them stairs. It won't even fit through the doors. I could cut the door our and make a bigger frame but even if we got 8 guys and managed to get it down with out cracking the glass. I'd get no enjoyment out of it down there. I only go in the basement to do paperwork once per month


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## ian_m (3 Jul 2015)

What are your walls made of ? Could you not build a frame (of 4x2) both attached to the wall (very long fixing bolts, even right through the wall) and a frame to the floor ?

Search around some of the US fish forums they have done some quite clever stuff to cope with monster tanks and poor quality houses.

However...

Your tank is 84" x 24" -> 2016sq in -> 1.3m2. Weight @ 1000Kg -> 770Kg/m3.

A big AEG  freezer weighs 77Kg (just looked), assuming half its volume is water 0.5 x 229litres -> 114Kg of frozen stuff. Thus total weight -> 77 + 114 -> 185Kg.

Area is 0.6m x 0.64m -> 0.39m2. Thus 185Kg/0.39m2 -> 475Kg/m2.

The freezer figure weight per area is only 40% less than your tank and you don't hear any people having the freezer fall through the floor. 

So again can't really see an issue, if you get the weight spread out evenly over the 84" x 24" area.

Seems a shame to have spent all this effort (and money) and not get passed stage 1....siting your tank.


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## Jamie McGrath (3 Jul 2015)

Sorry to hear that you might be abandoning this project, but I must give you respect for your concern for your familys safety. 
Do you think the shop will give you a refund as you havent used the tank yet. I think you will be better off starting with a smaller tank anyway. I bought a 200L tank off ebay about two years ago and I had no experience  what so ever. I find a 200L tank is quite hard work to look after with all of the 50% water changes and adding chemicals, fertilizer and you are going to get through so much Co2 tyring to keep 800L of water.

Hope all goes well for you I would like to know how it all goes and what you finally end up with!


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## parotet (3 Jul 2015)

OMG, I just read this thread from the very beginning... It's really a shame you cannot even sit your tank! If I'm not wrong the investment for this tank is £2500 
Do you have a garden? A guest house? A garage? 

Jordi


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## Rabbit229 (14 Jul 2015)

This stand looks like it's now on steroids, I really hope this works


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## ian_m (14 Jul 2015)

Fantastic, a proper job....If you ever decide to fill your tank with lead you have a stand (but not house...) to cope.


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## ian_m (14 Jul 2015)

You need to wedge loads of those packers in, cut to correct length, to pass the load into your floor. When I levelled a washing machine wooden base I put contact adhesive on one side of the packers before wacking them in place using a bolster chisel. Gluing stops them wiggling out.

Not sure the middle two diagonals add any strength as the lower ends really needs to terminate in a post like the upper end. All they will do is interfere with your pipe work and storage areas.

Remember to waterproof/varnish when done as sometime in the future you WILL be getting it wet due to a DOH incident.


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## Rabbit229 (14 Jul 2015)

I'm thinking the 2 Middle diagnals I'm going to fix some 3/4inch ply to help 

I'm buying 2 more acro for the basement. 

I was also thinking of bolting it to the upper floor above the tank (kids bed room) I could run 2 steel bars fixed from left to right of the tanks frame' up through the ceiling and bolting it to the floor joist.


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## ajm83 (14 Jul 2015)

I'm really glad you're still working on this one. 

A question regarding the stand: is the bit highlighted red here (directly next to the main support) used to stop the stand collapsing sideways?





If so is there a reason why you didn't put a piece diagonally like so?




Thanks


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## zozo (14 Jul 2015)

Whats actualy under the wood carpet? If that is directly on the brik floor with no isolating soft underlayer. And the floor is crooked but you want to spread the waight on a crooked floor. Why not just first make a platform. Make a 4 inch high box on the floor as you already have, if you take all away what is standing up and what is in the middle on the floor, just make it a little wider all, so you have a platform at least in the same surface area as the tank. Then take a 1mm thik pond foil as inlay and protection for the carpet. Fill it up with 2 layers of reinforcing steel mat and pour in concrete, the last (½) inch concrete mixed thin enough so it will egalize and level by itself.  So the weight is spread and put a 18mm plywood on that if you like.

If there is no soft isolation underlayer for the carpet,if that is the case you can forget about it without taking that out first. Maybe i missed something but i have the feeling thats the case. When you wrote the door is stuck a bit. Are you not just lifting the carpet up because of the weigth. In a way i can't imagine that the empty weight of that construction is bending a arched brik floor.


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## Rabbit229 (14 Jul 2015)

Hi ajm
They is nothing stopping me putting a cross section in were its high lighted in red but the wall plate that runs from left to right that the tank is sat on' is fixed into the stone work of the gable wall of the house. I have 10 fixing in that pice of timber fixed directly in to stone work ( not brick ) I have a lot of confidence in that one pice of timber. Not to sure of the rest lol, I think I'll ad a cross section to the front in the centre but I'm actually quite confident in this stand now. It's still just the floor that gives me butterfly's


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## Rabbit229 (14 Jul 2015)




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## Wisey (14 Jul 2015)

Is that chair a bravery test?


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## Rabbit229 (14 Jul 2015)

Lol yea I tie my kids to it when they are naughty and tell them they is a chance the tank will fall


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## zozo (14 Jul 2015)

Let them watch poltergeist before you do..


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## Edvet (14 Jul 2015)

Looks sturdy enough. quite sure it will hold


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## Rabbit229 (14 Jul 2015)

2 external heaters and 2 atomizer now fitted


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## Rabbit229 (15 Jul 2015)




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## Rabbit229 (15 Jul 2015)




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## Rabbit229 (15 Jul 2015)

45 ltr of environment aquarium soil. No were near enough! 
I'm thinking of adding some kiln dry sand from b and q. Will this affect the P.H


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## Tim Harrison (15 Jul 2015)

That looks like a pretty sturdy brick vaulted ceiling either ways...and no, sand will not effect pH it's mostly inert silica...the most common mineral on our planet.


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## Rabbit229 (15 Jul 2015)

Is this ok?


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## Tim Harrison (15 Jul 2015)

Yes, it'll be fine...


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## ajm83 (16 Jul 2015)

How fine is it? If it's really fine like play sand it'll make vaccing up detritus a bit of a pain as it gets sucked up so easily. Also would be a shame to lose that nice rich colour from what you have at the moment.


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## ian_m (16 Jul 2015)

Put the sand under the substrate, that's what I have done. Originally I put sand on top of Fluval substrate, but after a couple of months the substrate worked its way to the surface so had to hike it all out and sieve it and put back other way round.

Hope you are not snookering the flow of your lovely FX6 in pushing flow through 22/16mm fixings. Area of FX6 pipe is 490sq mm and 22/16 Hydor is a lowly 200sq mm a 60% flow reduction. Your FX6 will not be happy having its flow reduced by so much. 

Its says.." Important: Reducing capacity by more than half should be avoided for the following reasons: running noise may increase, the service life of the rotor may be shortened and the cooling required when the pump head is in operation is no longer reliably guaranteed."


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## Rabbit229 (16 Jul 2015)

ian_m said:


> Put the sand under the substrate, that's what I have done. Originally I put sand on top of Fluval substrate, but after a couple of months the substrate worked its way to the surface so had to hike it all out and sieve it and put back other way round.
> 
> Hope you are not snookering the flow of your lovely FX6 in pushing flow through 22/16mm fixings. Area of FX6 pipe is 490sq mm and 22/16 Hydor is a lowly 200sq mm a 60% flow reduction. Your FX6 will not be happy having its flow reduced by so much.
> 
> Its says.." Important: Reducing capacity by more than half should be avoided for the following reasons: running noise may increase, the service life of the rotor may be shortened and the cooling required when the pump head is in operation is no longer reliably guaranteed."


No I've not reduced the pipe' I'm using 2x 204fluval for the heater and co2. The FX6 has not been messed with


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## Rabbit229 (16 Jul 2015)

No it's not reduced. I have 2xfluval running heat and co2


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## Rabbit229 (16 Jul 2015)

I'll get some better pics on once it's clears a bit.

I've no pumps running yet I'm worried IT will up root the hair grass. I was thinking of playing it safe and tomorrow day conect the co2 and pumps?


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## Jamie McGrath (16 Jul 2015)

looking good mate, and youve shown some great determination.


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## Rabbit229 (23 Jul 2015)

We got it finally finished, this was a stressful build but we got there in the end



I'll get more photos up once the tank starts to mature


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## Edvet (23 Jul 2015)

Nice job, looks like plenty light, be carefull with that.


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## Rabbit229 (23 Jul 2015)

yeah I put the radion on 100% for the pic. I'm running at 20% for 8h until I see the plants growing


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## Lindy (23 Jul 2015)

Looks great!


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## Rabbit229 (23 Jul 2015)

Yeah the pic don't give it justice


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## Rabbit229 (27 Jul 2015)




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## Sk3lly (27 Jul 2015)

Looking good


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Chris Jackson (27 Jul 2015)

Oh yes!


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## 5678 (28 Jul 2015)

Got there in the end! 

What fish are you planning for it?


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## Rabbit229 (28 Jul 2015)

Thinking of a large shoal of rummy noise and cardinals' a few rainbow fish and peacock goby, need get my head around this co2 first. A bit worried I'll gas my fish out. I'm running my co2 high at the moment. Trying kick start my plants


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## Rabbit229 (17 Oct 2015)

3 month later.
I'm struggling get this hair grass to carpet. It's shooting out runners extremely slow. I'm wondering if you have any tips on getting this to grow!


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## Rabbit229 (17 Oct 2015)




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## Chris Jackson (17 Oct 2015)

I'd say that your going to need more lght intensity to get that hairgrass carpeting better. Not so much a longer photoperiod but a good hour or so with rather higher intensity lighting. Can you add a couple more lights to your rail? Not forgetting CO2 of course...


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## Rabbit229 (18 Oct 2015)

When I turn the lights up I get algae! They are running on 50% at the moment


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## Chris Jackson (18 Oct 2015)

Rabbit229 said:


> When I turn the lights up I get algae! They are running on 50% at the moment



Yes it's a juggle eh?! That's why I was suggesting intense lighting for only a brief part of the photoperiod as in my experience that seems to boost the plants far more than the algae. You could just plant a lot more of it to get a ready made almost carpet and let that slowly grow in...


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## Rabbit229 (19 Oct 2015)

Yes ok' I'll try the one 1h at 100%


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## ian_m (20 Oct 2015)

Rabbit229 said:


> When I turn the lights up I get algae! They are running on 50% at the moment


Which indicates either super super super monsterous lights (unlikely) or poor CO2 levels and distribution.

But nice tank.


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## Rabbit229 (20 Oct 2015)

Co2 levels are fine. The currant in the take looks fine. All the leaves on the plans are moving in the mayhem of the fluval fx6 and the maxspect gyre. I have the Co2 running in to 2x 204 fluval that are distributing it from the left and right side of the tank. I copied the diagram you sent me Ian with the inline defuser.
May be these light are extremely bright. I mean they should be they cost over £1200 for the light rig!
The co2 is ran constant day and night.


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## Rabbit229 (22 Jan 2016)

Last night photo as the lights was switching off


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## Rabbit229 (22 Jan 2016)




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## emrgroup (22 Jan 2016)

What kind of lights are those? They are beautiful!

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk


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## nayr88 (22 Jan 2016)

wow!! thats a pretty special build you have!

the plants look healthy and i bet the fish love the space. you would guess the co2 should be enough to the get the hair grass spreading, and the light should be enough to, i can only think that the co2 is not enough BUT i haven't had much luck with hair grass and do not have enough high tech exp to say 100% but that would be my 'guess' haha.

the tanks great tho, so enjoy it 
oh and cram it with apistogrammas pleeeeeeease haha


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## Rabbit229 (22 Jan 2016)

Yes the hair grass is a pain in the Butt. My jullii corys keep in roofing it as it throws out runners. Just added 8 discus at 2inch. They are a bit shy at the moment


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## Rabbit229 (22 Jan 2016)

emrgroup said:


> What kind of lights are those? They are beautiful!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk


Radion fresh water, great bit of kit


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## emrgroup (22 Jan 2016)

Rabbit229 said:


> Radion fresh water, great bit of kit


I looked into them. Yikes! One costs more than all six of my led!  But you do get what you pay for. Wonder if I would have to start collecting bottles to get one!  

What kind of spread do you get with one?

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## Rabbit229 (22 Jan 2016)

I've got 3 on the 7ft tank and its plenty, yes very expensive, cost over £1000 with stand £1200 rings a bell' the mount is very much over priced


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## ian_m (22 Feb 2018)

Any updates on this fantastic beast of a tank (and stand !!).


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## Edvet (22 Feb 2018)

I hope it didn't sink through the floor


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## doylecolmdoyle (23 Feb 2018)

Interesting read, what a mammoth tank! good work with all that reinforcement, hope the house is still standing


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## Angus (25 Feb 2018)

This was a rollercoaster ride of a read, it turned out so nice, would love to see an update.


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