# Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt' Journal finished.



## Ady34

Hello one and all,
                         after spending many an hour reading and viewing some of the huge number of exceptional planted tank journals on the ukaps forum, i thought it about time i shared my 1st attempt at an aquascape. 
Having kept fish for about 15 years ive always been in awe of the planted aquarium, but never been able to keep plants successfully. Recently i thought id do a bit of internet research and found a huge amount of information, related sites and retailers who specialise in aquascaping and plants. It was an eye opener, but immediately highlighted the basics of  plant growth of which i had no knowledge. C02 and fertilisers with a good substrate was a start! So off i went, intent on using my old Juwel rio 180, until i saw the shiny new studio 900. I know its not opti white, nor ADA quality but i loved the look and it suited its position in the front room perfectly. Glass covers would prevent feline mishaps and missiles from my 2 toddlers!

Tank: 92.5 x 43.5 x 45cm
Filter: Fluval G6
Heater: Fluval E200
Lighting: 2x T5 HO 39w
CO2: 2kg pressurised TGM kit.
Substrate: Penac p, ada powersand s medium, ada aquasoil amazonia, unipac zambezi sand.
Hardscape: Vine wood and dragon stone.
Fertiliser: TPN and TPN+

I had trawled the North East of England searching for wood for the hardscape, and when i found the two pieces used, knew exactly the look i was going for. A trip to The Green Machine (amazing place by the way) sorted the dragon stone which i thought complimented the 'gnarly' look of the wood perfectly. This set my mind on a mainly crypt, fern and moss scape.....






















The tank has been planted for four weeks now, ill continue the post when i have some more time.


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## bluemoon280

*Fluval Studio 900.*

Hey. Looks good so far. Like the wood very much. Where did you eventually find it? 

Looking forward to more updates


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## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*

Hi there and thanks.
The wood was bought from a shop called Penshaw Aquatics. It has a few fish tanks and reptiles etc. I soaked the wood for about 6 weeks and frequently scrubbed it to remove fungal growths.


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## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*

Thought id continue the post with some more info. 
With the substrate and hardscape sorted, i fishless cycled the tank for 4 weeks and then planted. 
Water perameters at this point were PH 6.8 (guestimated from colour rendition of test kit), NH3 0 mg/l, NO2 0mg/l, NO3 5mg/l, PO4 0.25 mg/l, KH 20mg/l and GH <20mg/l. 
CO2 2bps. 
The plants were ordered from the Green Machine and were as follows:
Eleocharis parvula
Eleocharis acicularis
Hygrophila pinnitafida
Microsorum pteropus 'pencil'
Microsorum pteropus 'petit'
Staurogyne repens
Pogostemon halferi
Taxiphyllum barbieri
Bolbitis heudolotti
Cryptocoryne balansae
Cryptocoryne parva
Cryptocoryne becketti 'petchii'
Cryptocoryne undulata 'broad leaves'
Cryptocoryne wendtii 'brown'
Cryptocoryne wendtti 'mi oya'
Cryptocoryne wendtti 'tropica'

As this is my first 'real' planted aquascape i took lots of photos so apologies for the forthcoming barrage of shots!
Planting (09/09/11):





The first plants, pogostemon halferi:





And finally complete, and a little murky!





Fertilising began immediately with daily dosing of 2.5ml tpn and tpn+ alternately.

On 14/09/11 i was experiencing the dreaded 'crypt melt', along with Pogostemon halferi melt also!!! Filamentous algae was also apparent in the moss..... roll on the weekend for the addition af the algae crew!
At this point i added a product called 'Lithaqua' (marine mineral with high carbonates rich in trace elements)to the second chamber in the filter aimed at increasing the KH of the water as ive always worried (even with advice not too) about this as it is 20 mg/l from the tap where i live. 
Co2 was also increased to 3bps as the drop checker was turning to a dark green, but not lime green.
 17/09/11 the addition of 13 amano shrimp and 9 otocinclus - the algae crew - filamentous algae sorted in 2 days!
thankfully by now the crypts had new leaves emerging which made me feel a lot better about things.
The KH was also on the rise and on 18/09/11 was reading 50mg/l, again putting me at ease, however the GH was also on the rise - not something i wanted for my planned soft water fish tank. Lithaqua made no reference to increasing GH in its specs but this is all i can attribute it too as my tap water is 60 mg/l and the tank was up to 100mg/l. (presuming aqua soil reduces gh and that the sand and dragon stone are inert?)
By the 27/09/11 KH was up to 110 mg/l and GH to 120 mg/l and made me begin to reconsider its long term viability as i couldnt accurately determine a final kh/gh of the water. Water stability is also something ive learned from reading the many posts on ukaps and i wasnt achieving this.
15 Harlequin rasbora and 10 black bee shrimp were added on 25/09/11, and Co2 was slowly... very slowly... perhaps too cautiously increased until i finally reached a lime green colour in the drop checker..... 21/2 weeks after planting and at a bubble rate i cant even count!

Some of the residents:











and 3 weeks after planting:






I feel i have already learned a lot from this tank and reading through the ukaps journals and q and a pages, but ill post again soon with some more issues ive had and am currently having... hoping for some advice


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## leonroy

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*

Looks good, looking forward to watching it grow.

Question about the tank's intake/outlet. Did you drill those yourself or did the tank come with them already drilled and fitted?


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## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*

Hi there,
the tank comes pre drilled and its really simple to fit the inlet/outlet pipes. They are only available drilled on the left hand side though.
Cheerio
Ady.


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## Gary Nelson

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*

This is looking great! Any chance of a pic of how the filter is connected up to the drilled part of the tank underneath - I really like the tank design too, well done


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## Ian Holdich

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*

looks really good and well thought out.

ps That's a really lean dose of TPN.


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## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*

Hi Gary,
thanks very much, im quite happy with it although im having some issues with what i believe may be staghorn algae at the moment, but more on that another time.
Heres some shots i just took of the filter connections to the inlet/outlet pipes.
















the pipes just fitted straight onto the supplied connections. hope this helps
Ady.


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## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*



			
				ianho said:
			
		

> looks really good and well thought out.
> 
> ps That's a really lean dose of TPN.


Thanks, im a bit naive when it comes to fertilising regimes etc as its my 1st commited planted tank. Having read some of the articles on ukaps maybe double the directed dosing would be nearer the mark?


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## Ian Holdich

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*

There was an old type of guideline of 1ml per 20 litres of TPN+, that's why a lot of people head down the EI route with larger tanks. However, i have noticed quite a few people dosing less that this of late...you have a good substrate system in place though, so you will be able to get away with less than 1ml per 20l IMO. Keep and eye on the plants and if you notice any N or P deficiencies then up the TPN+.


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## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*

I have some small holes appearing in some of the older crypt leaves and my Staurogyne isnt taking off, could this be down to n and p deficiencies? 
Im also getting an outburst of staghorn algae and was wondering if this could be related to over/under dosing of one of the ferts or is it more likely attributed to the addition of livestock over the last couple of weeks?
Thanks


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## Ian Holdich

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*



> I have some small holes appearing in some of the older crypt leaves and my Staurogyne isnt taking off, could this be down to n and p deficiencies?



this may be due to transition, if they are on the newer leaves then this sometimes is due to a potassium deficiency.



> Im also getting an outburst of staghorn algae and was wondering if this could be related to over/under dosing of one of the ferts or is it more likely attributed to the addition of livestock over the last couple of weeks



Just remember that an OD of ferts won't give you algae, it is better to OD more so than under dose. As long as water changes are kept on top of. Filamentous algae is normally attributed to low C02 and or nutrients. What is your tank husbandry like? Are you doing daily or bi daily water changes in the first few weeks of the tanks life?


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## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*

Hi again,
oops, tank husbandry has been only weekly 40% water changes (algae scrapes substrate syphoning etc), not daily or bi daily. Ive also just incresed the photoperiod in the last week from 6 to 9 hours and am dosing weekly rather than daily.
My c02 i think is now about spot on as the drop checker shows a lime green.
I think i should maybe start bi daily water changes and double the ferts? adding daily to compenstae for water changes?
Thanks again.


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## Ian Holdich

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*

If you are starting to see algaes this early on i would up the water changes and up the ferts. Most of the successful journals on here will do daily or bi daily water changes for at least 2 weeks, especially as the plants melt and release ammonia. Also if you're not using a mature filter, this will also help. Once the plants get established then you can cut down the water changes. TPN+ will also be at it's best when dosed daily, that way the plants won't run out of what they need.


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## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*

Oky doky, thanks for the tips. Ill bi daily water change and up the ferts. I fishless cycled for 4 weeks and the tank has been planted for a further 4 weeks. I now have 15 harlequins, 13 cardinal tetras, 9 otocinclus 1 c. siamensis and 20+ shrimp, would you suggest using tpn+ exclusively or 50/50 along with tpn with this ever increasing fish stocking level (and resultant natural phosphate and nitrate introduction from waste and food)?
Thanks.


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## Ian Holdich

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*

@ 4 weeks the plants may still be melting a little, doing a water change every other day or twice weekly will help. You also have to look at the plant mass you have and it's a good amount of plants, personally i would stick with just the TPN+ as the TPN just provides trace and plants need just that...a trace. The fish you have aren't going to produce a lot of waste, and it's always better to have a little more nutrients than to little.


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## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*

Thanks very much for the advice, ill increase water changes and ferts with only the tpn+ and see how i go.


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## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900 (update)*

Hello,
its been a busy few weeks so just getting round to a progress report.
As it finished last time i was having a huge staghorn algae outbreak  , man that stuff can multiply!! Thanks to some good advice (thanks ianho).... and the power of flourish excel i seem to have won this particular battle  . 2X weekly water changes, doubling my dose of tpn+ to 5ml per day and dosing 5ml per day excel, turned the staghorn red and all but eradicated it.

Im also just about fully stocked with fish selection now, with cardinals, rummys, harlequins, ottos and a siamensis, not groundbreaking i know, but i love all of them, the tank is buzzing with activity and im really enjoying the hobby again. 

A few up to date photos.


























Ive also added some monosolenium tenerum and silvania natans to the plant collection. My initial vision for this scape was to have most of the height at the right side of the tank, a triangular formation following the lines of the hardscape. However due to the long acclimatising period of the crypt balansae   my vision hasnt been realised as of yet, although i am being patient and perservering, (thought had crossed my mind to add a stem to the right rear) as it now seems to be putting out some healthy looking leaves, one of which has nearly reached the surface! Because of this delay i added a floating plant to give a little surface interest, and also as a comfort for the fish. I also felt the left front under the wood looked a bit open and bare, so added the monosolenium hoping for success at filling in a bit under there where light will be a little more scarce!

Im hoping for longevity with this tank, hence the reason for choosing a lot of crypts, but mostly i wanted to spark my interest again with something a little more satisfying and challenging. The progress seems to have been slow (6 weeks planted now) but im definitely beginning to see it evolving as my hairgrass carpet is filling in nicely, the crypts are becoming more densely leaved, the staurogyne seems to be finally showing signs of growing and the pogostemon halferi that melted initially also seems to be coming back (although not quite as healthy as i would like).

Crypts filling in.






Im loving watching this tank and enjoying the challenge of maintaining a planted aquarium, i know its not proportionately perfect nor full of immaculately shaped plants but for me it is satisfying just knowing that my plants are actually growing and hopefully will continue to do so! With the knowledge available through ukaps, and the quality of members tanks and journals on this site im sure ill be able to improve and expand my own understanding of this side of the hobby.

P.S. anyone know what type of snail this is, how big it will get and if its a friend or foe? They seem pleasant enough at the moment.


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## Gary Nelson

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*

This is looking really nice now the plants have filled out more - really well done


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## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*



			
				Gary Nelson said:
			
		

> This is looking really nice now the plants have filled out more - really well done


Thanks Gary,
yeah its definitely filling in, im noticing new growth every day. I think the difficulty will be in maintaining some degree of order. Ive heard balansae can take over a tank and the hygrophila pinnatifida is throwing out runners all over the place! Im gonna try pruning it quite low to thicken it up and keep it about mid height in the water column.


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## hotweldfire

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*



			
				Ady34 said:
			
		

>



   I have one of those nurofen syringes in the bathroom cabinet. Crucial parent kit.

That filter looks seriously slick BTW. Have not seen the G6 before.

Like the tank a lot. Will be watching with interest.


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## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*

   I have one of those nurofen syringes in the bathroom cabinet. Crucial parent kit.

That filter looks seriously slick BTW. Have not seen the G6 before.

Like the tank a lot. Will be watching with interest.[/quote]

Thanks,
Nurofen is a wonderful thing, and now its syringe has another very important role... i feel i have got excellent value for money... happy kids and a well fertilised aquarium, very relaxing!
yeah the filter looks the part and as far as maintenence goes its a doddle compared to faffing around with clips and seals and foams etc, makes cleaning it much less of a chore!


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## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900 trim and Q's.*

Hi again,
good news... i have a berried bee shrimp!   no photographic evidence as she's gone into hiding and has been occupying the most difficult to view places, but im quite chuffed. Hopefully the fish wont get the offspring before theyre big enough to fend for themselves! 

Anyway, thought id update with a couple of shots of the first major trim, hairgrass was getting a little out of hand and hygrophila pinnatifida likewise. Im going to try to keep the pinnatifida more compact on the left side, and ive put a few cuttings on the right side which ill let grow to the surface, maybe temporarily until the balansae fills in, or maybe permanently if it looks ok. 

before:






after:











and a couple of random shots. I know my photography holds a lot to be desired, but youll get the picture!!!!  
fish:






snail on pinnitifida:






Ive also purchased another piece of vine wood which ill cut into 1 or 2 smaller pieces which will be added to the right side to give the hardscape more height. Ill attach some different moss to it, but depending on the look this may be all. Ill have to soak the wood for a few weeks yet to sink it and limit the fungus growth so itll be a while yet before the addition to the tank.






Also im experiencing a new algae which i cant identify. Im not concerned about the green algae, however the dark spots you can see on the dragon stone (and on the plants) i havnt seen before. Its not easy to remove with a toothbrush (impossible), its almost like staining. Any help with this would be much appreciated. Im currently doing 2x water changes per week, dosing 7ml tpn+ daily, 4ml flourish excel daily, running a 9 hr photoperiod and 9 hr co2 diffusion (2hrs pre and post lighting).






Cheerio for now.


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## J Butler

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*

That looks like black brush/beard algae (BBA) to me

Useful guide here

A lot of people have success spot dosing flourish excel when dealing with this. The BBA eventually turns pink and is then easier to remove, the clean up crew will munch on it to at this point I think. It might resurface though, although now you've given the tank a haircut, flow should be increased. 

Hope that helps,
Joe

(tank looks great by the way!   )


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## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*



			
				J Butler said:
			
		

> That looks like black brush/beard algae (BBA) to me
> 
> Useful guide here
> 
> A lot of people have success spot dosing flourish excel when dealing with this. The BBA eventually turns pink and is then easier to remove, the clean up crew will munch on it to at this point I think. It might resurface though, although now you've given the tank a haircut, flow should be increased.
> 
> Hope that helps,
> Joe
> 
> (tank looks great by the way!  )



Thanks Joe,
oh i hope it isnt the start of bba, i used to have problems with that in my old tank. However it isnt raised, nor is it in 'tufts' like ive seen bba before. Unless its the formative stages i dont think thats what it is, it is like a stain on the surface and i tried scrubbing it off the top of my filter inlet pipe with a toothbrush last night and couldnt remove it.... its very stubborn!
Thanks for the reply and the link, ill keep an eye on it and see if it develops any further, fingers crossed it isnt bba though, its horrid stuff!
Ady.


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## J Butler

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*

I see what you mean Ady, I see black and BBA immediately springs to mind. Hopefully someone that has seen it before will be able to shed some light as i'm not sure what else it could be considering it's out in the open and presumably subject to good flow.


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## Gary Nelson

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*

Hi

How are you finding the 'Fluval Studio 900' I have been thinking very seriously in getting one as the dimensions are the perfect size for our lounge, but cant seem to find any stores nearby that actually have one on display for me to inspect.  I really like the black and silver look and the lighting.  I was tempted to go for a rio 180 in white, but not that keen on the cabinet.
What do you think of the build quality, lighting and so on... any info would be great or any problems you may have found?


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## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*



			
				Gary Nelson said:
			
		

> Hi
> 
> How are you finding the 'Fluval Studio 900' I have been thinking very seriously in getting one as the dimensions are the perfect size for our lounge, but cant seem to find any stores nearby that actually have one on display for me to inspect. I really like the black and silver look and the lighting. I was tempted to go for a rio 180 in white, but not that keen on the cabinet.
> What do you think of the build quality, lighting and so on... any info would be great or any problems you may have found?



Hi Gary,
i have to say overall im very pleased with the studio tank and cabinet. My reason for choosing it was it fitted the style and colour combo (black gloss and brushed aluminium) of our front room perfectly, plus i thought it to be a much more modern take on aquarium styling compared with the juwel tanks. My old tank was a rio 180 on dark wood and it served me well, the new white gloss is nice but i feel they could have altered the stands to 'modernise' them and give some extra storeage space also.
Ive taken a few shots of the tank/stand in situ for you to have a look at. I know that its never the same as seeing one in the flesh, but it may help.  

Full tank/stand showing gloss level of the stand (reflection of skirting).






The gloss level is really high and the finish excellent.
The stand itself is really solid, much better quality than some of the recent fluval stands! It, like the tank, is very weighty and instills confidence immediately and door adjusments are accurate so you can get perfect symmetry.

The under cabinet area is also large with two equally sized 'cupboards' big enough for any amount of clutter. With a 70cm height, co2 and filter equipment have little restriction.






The lighting is neat and includes an integrated reflector... which it needs, 2x 39w ho t5 tubes on 180l isnt high light, but also it has to penetrate the glass sliding covers and condensation as shown below! I personally like the glass covers as they prevent things being thrown in, evaporation and importantly fish jumping out! You can of course remove them. My only real issue with the lighting is when fixed on the sliders, there is no height adjustment so the lighting sits quite close to the water surface and with the shape of the lighting unit the light spread isnt wide so you tend to get 'dark spots' for about an inch water depth at the front and rear water surface. The lighting unit does incorporate two neat little hooks so you can suspend from the ceiling if you like which would eliminate this problem (....but then blind you when you sat down on your sofa!!!) Also you could purchase an additional lighting unit and run 2 on the top which again would eliminate this problem and give extra light depending upon requirements.






Below is an image of the tank in a dark room to show the light dissipation from the tank.... much different from a closed top tank.






I really like the tank and stand and they are both solid designs, the tank made from 10mm glass. The drilled base is already plumbed and simple to attach piping too. I wish the drilled base came with a sided option though as i would have preferred my pipes at right hand side! This may not be an issue for you. Obviously when you buy a tank design like this you cant add glassware so are stuck with the filter uplifts as they are (unless you capped the drilled base fixings and added seperate hoses etc)... but i presume like myself you like the simplicity of the internal plumbing which also makes filter priming easy due to gravity!!! There is no spray bar attachment available, and i think the piping is an unusual size so you might have to be a bit of an engineer to cobble something up if you wanted this option.
Like i said at the beginning of my journal, its not opti white nor ADA quality, but i love it.. its not die hard aquascaper material, but its a much more contemporary design than most all in ones out there and bridges the gap i feel.
Sorry for being a bit long winded, i hope theres something useful there for you and its always nice to get something new!  
Cheerio for now.
Ady.


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## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900. Advice please.*

While im posting already i thought id add a couple of shots and ask a bit of advice.
I managed to capture a shot of my berried shrimp:






And heres a nice one of my siamensis chilling out!






I tried a few backgrounds - black and blue..... any thoughts/opinions welcomed:











And finally it needed another trim and the foreground gravel claning up and gravel line algae cleaning!!!

before:






After:






This also shows the growth on the Hygrophila Pinnatifida at the left and right sides. The right hand side nearly reaching the surface now as planned.

Advice needed, slow/stunted growth issues:
The pogostemon halferi in the centre and the staurogyne repens on the left seem to be in a stalemate at the moment ... im not sure why theyre not thriving? any ideas? 
Today i upped my co2 slightly to see if i could get a lime green DC sooner after lights on.... i did ( 2hrs as opposed to 4) but nearly gassed my fish, a harlequin began twitching and they all had v. rapid gill movements towards the end of the injection period! Turned it down again, i think it must have been optimal as it was. 
Is it feasable to start c02 more than 2 hrs before lights on but at a lower rate to keep c02 levels optimal and stable during the photoperiod?
Ive also reduced my photoperiod from 9 hrs to 81/2 hrs and will  prob go down to 8 as i noticed an increase in green spot algae.
Ferts have been upped to 7.5ml/day tpn+ and flourish excel stopped.... not sure if my ottos were suffering slightly from daily dosing excel... they just didnt seem themselves?
As i seem to have correct c02, and fert dosing is quite high (i think), im thinking it may be flow related so am considering additional flow by means of a koralia nano to see if this may help growth. I feel circulation is good and there is water movement all over the tank but as a novice i dont know how fast flow should be across plants to give correct access to c02 and ferts?  Also could my lighting (less than 2wpg) account for the slow/stunted growth? Again any advice would be welcomed.
Cheers 
Ady.


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## madlan

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*

Love the scape! 

Did you know the directional nozzles pull off? I get a much better flow without them.


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## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*

Hi Madlan,



			
				madlan said:
			
		

> Love the scape!
> 
> Did you know the directional nozzles pull off? I get a much better flow without them.



yeah i knew they were removeable, but never even considered trying it without them.... doh! Maybe with the bowl shape it will act like a lily pipe!? Ill give it a go, although i do like being able to point the flow where i want and slightly upwards to give a bit of surface movement. Ive bought a koralia nano ciculation pump now to get more even circulation, and ill be installing that on 'water change' night tomorrow! 
Thanks for looking and taking the time to comment, any suggestions are always welcomed.   
Cheerio
Ady.


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## madlan

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*

I do exactly that - I have a koralia in the corner with the pipes which disturbs the surface, I get excellent flow through the whole tank without any jet streams - the nozzles almost half the flow turning it into a jet! (i've got an FX5 so it was like a washing machine...)

What I really want is an acrylic lilly pipe that replaces the extenion pipe - now that would look ace!


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## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*



			
				madlan said:
			
		

> I do exactly that - I have a koralia in the corner with the pipes which disturbs the surface, I get excellent flow through the whole tank without any jet streams - the nozzles almost half the flow turning it into a jet! (i've got an FX5 so it was like a washing machine...)
> 
> What I really want is an acrylic lilly pipe that replaces the extenion pipe - now that would look ace!



Yeah i know what you mean. The lack of extra 'options' regarding the return pipe is a bit dissappointing, you would have thought you could have at least got a spray bar attachment. A lily pipe attachment would be even better!!! 
I see you went for 10x turnover from the filter alone.... fx5, not surprised you have excellent circulation!  

Is your tank planted?, im presuming it is being on ukaps and all, and if so do you have a journal? I dont think ive come across another studio tank on here, but it would be good to share your experiences...  :idea:  get a journal going!

Ive been altering a few things in my tank as i wasnt totally happy with the way things were going. Ill post some updates soon.

Cheerio
Ady.


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## madlan

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*

Made one a while ago: http://ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17698


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## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*



			
				madlan said:
			
		

> Made one a while ago: http://ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17698



Ah a profile tank, it looks great by the way... i had looked at getting one of these myself but im a bit too short to reach the bottom!   
Any updates on how its progressing?
I love the fish choice too, they look great together. I love marbled hatchets and thought about getting a shoal myself.. you can tell ive been keeping fish tanks as opposed to planted tanks as i want to add every fish i like!!! Maybe if i rehome the harlequins.
Ady.


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## Ian Holdich

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*

just a quick one to say how good this tank is looking...It all looks very healthy. Good shot of the shrimp as well.


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## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*



			
				ianho said:
			
		

> just a quick one to say how good this tank is looking...It all looks very healthy. Good shot of the shrimp as well.



Thanks Ian, shrimp now eggless and no shrimplets.


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## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.... a few changes.*

Well things have been going ok and theres been some slight changes in the tank.

Firstly  i think my cryptocoryne balansae has finally found its feet and is showing some good leaf formation and colour.  






Typically it was at this moment i decided to take some of the balansae and other crypts out of the right rear in favour of a couple of stem plants to try and speed along the filling in of the upper area. Hygrophila corymbosa siamensis and ludwigia arcuata.... hopefully theyll do the job and get some height in my 'triangle' configuration!    






Ive also replaced the pogostemon halferi in the centre with the cryptocoryne mia oya taken from the right rear, and added more cryptocoryne wendtti tropica and crypt becketti petchii. In fairness the halferi never really thrived, but additionally my rummy noses took a particular liking to it and nearly stripped it!!! The crypts will lend themselves more appropriately to my initial vision for the tank.

Water changes have been reduced to 1 per week again. I think its nice to see how people approach this, i tend to favour the 'syphon to the drain, refill with transfer pump' option.....buckets and water jugs used to be the bain of my life....






Also keeping things spick and span naturally are the algae crew, one of which i managed to get a fairly decent shot of considering my lack of photography skills!






Ive just added a koralia nano 900 lph circulation pump to give me 10x turnover and better overall circulation.
Photoperiod reduced to 8hrs, tpn+ 8ml/daily.

Well this is how it stands currently, hoping for the upper right to be filled with the stems soon, and the crypts in the centre to settle in. Ive also moved some staurogyne repens along the left foreground to try and draw the eye into the tank. The new wood is currently being stubborn and floating so not ready to try that yet.

Notice the colour difference of the newly added cryptocoryne wendtti tropica compared to the 'settled' identical species to the right.











Thanks for looking.
Cheerio for now.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.... oh no ive deleted all my photos.*

OOPS....... ive deleted all my photos by removing them fromt my host site. Anyone know of a way to get them back or will i have to reload them all?


----------



## spyder

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.... oh no ive deleted all my photos.*

Even is someone had an offline version of this thread you would still need to re upload them all. It's possible you may have to edit all links in all posts too that contain images.  I'm not sure if imageshack renames the images for you which causes such problems.

If they had of been stored on a personal server then you could of just reloaded the photo directory presuming you have a backup..


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.... oh no ive deleted all my photos.*

thanks Spyder,
no im a computer idiot and no backup!!    
looks like trawling through my images reloading them to imageshack and reposting them!!   
a lesson learned. ill do it over a period of time.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.... oh no ive deleted all my photos.*

Hello again,
thought id post an update pre christmas.
Things have been going a little slowly without much change. Ludwigia arcuata and hygrophila siamensis corymbosa have not had the fast growth i was expecting and the ludwigia in particular seems to be less than 'thriving'. A possible reason for this being insufficient light..... i have just noticed today that i have one tube out thus the tank has been running on one t5 for i dont know how long!!!!!
Also ive a few holes in some of the crypt leaves, any ideas on what deficiency this is would be welcomed. (TPN+ 9ml per day 180l tank vol)







Otherwise mosses, monosolenium tenerum and microsorum pteropus 'petite' seem to be doing well






Along with the bolbitis






and hairgrass






Anyway ill leave you with a fts just to remind you of how its all looking after deleting all my other photos. The staurogyne repens left foreground is also looking a little worse for wear..... rummynoses i think have moved on from the pogostemon halferi i removed and are now dining on this!! nibbled edges to all the leaves, little buggers!






*Hope you all have a very merry christmas and all the best for 2012.*


----------



## creg

*Re: Fluval Studio 900. Pre christmas update.*

merry xmas and wow lovely looking tank, plants all look really healthy


----------



## Mark Evans

*Re: Fluval Studio 900. Pre christmas update.*

I love this tank Ady. Very mature looking indeed. 

Try upping your water column dosing for the crypts. How old is the AS? I'd of thought the crypts would be satisfied from root feeding. Maybe try buying some root tabs


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900. Pre christmas update.*



			
				creg said:
			
		

> merry xmas and wow lovely looking tank, plants all look really healthy



Thanks Creg.



			
				Mark Evans said:
			
		

> I love this tank Ady. Very mature looking indeed.
> 
> Try upping your water column dosing for the crypts. How old is the AS? I'd of thought the crypts would be satisfied from root feeding. Maybe try buying some root tabs



Much appreciated Mark,
The AS is only 4 months old and i also thought they would have sufficient nutrients from root feeding for at least 7-8 months. They are mostly a success and filling out continuously but do have holes in some of the leaves and pits on the back of some leaves which definitely looks like a deficiency of some sort. I dont really want to increase water column dosing as its already getting a little expensive!!!! One day ill maybe bite the bullet, face my laziness and try the EI way. Root tabs may be the easiest way to feed their hunger, ill look into the different types... unless you know of a particularly good tried and tested one?
The crypts do still suffer from minor melting which suggests an imbalance somewhere, but everything going in is constant.... the only thing i can attribute it too is the daily fluctuating of ph due to c02 (ph 7 before c02 and about ph 6 after).. anyone else have this problem?

On a happier note plants have been pearling like crazy the past couple of days and the stems at the rear already seem to be growing healthier due to the replacement of the light. Whilst swapping it anyway i went for another life glo with a 6700 kelvin rating which should be better for plants than the power glo bulb at 18000k. The tips of the ludwigia have already thickened and turned to a more orangy colour suggesting a previous light deficiency. Note to self, check lights frequently.   

Thanks again chaps,
Cheerio for now.

PS broken camera over christmas   im looking at max £200.... any suggestions? Its a family camera really, im no photographer and need something relitively simple but offering decent enough quality for the tank shots.    Ive been looking at the panasonic TZ18, TZ20 (for HD video capabilities) and equivalent canon which i cant remember the model.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900. C02 ran out....Problems!.*

Well, problems problems problems.  
CO2 has ran out, and i think because it was getting low had been fluctuating resulting in the melting of many crypt leaves. This i think in turn has led to the return of staghorn algae (only minor at the moment) which im hoping to control with water changes and flourish excel. Im also hoping the flourish excel will substitute c02. The tank has also gone a little 'milky' again for some reason, perhaps a bacterial bloom due to changing tank balance?
Ill post in other sections too but if anyone is reading and has some answers to the following qs it would be much appreciated.
will liquid carbon offer the plants i have a suitable substitite to pressurised c02 and is the recommended dosage enough or should it be increased?
With the plants i have do you think pressurised c02 is necessary at all?
does anyone know of anywhere in the north east to get c02 refilled?
does the c02 need to be 'food grade' as ive read of decomissioned fire extinguishers being used and even refills provided, and im thinking of contacting our work fire extinguisher provider and servicer to see if they can refill?
Thanks
Ady.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900. C02....sorted!*

Well, ive sourced a c02 supply 5 mins from my doorstep... result, so back on the c02 again. The tank has shown little sign of distress without the pressurised c02, perhaps only the hairgrass showing signs of fading greenery and a noticeable slowing of growth. The crypts have definitely benefitted from a more stable period with excel dosing, and melting is much reduced. I may well try reducing the c02 input to keep water chemistry more consistent hoping this will suit the crypts better..... only time will tell how this effects the tank overall. 
Also i have noticed a considerable increase in my shrimps activity since the c02 ran out, they have been crawling out of the woodwork and scavanging all over! 

I have also carried out a full filter clean, the first time ive touched the bio media in 6 months. The bio media section was amazingly clean, especially considering the 6 month running period and is testament to the design of the filter and the quality of the pre filter.

this is how it looked on opening, a discolouration of the 'g nodes' and slight 'mulm' film on the inner lid and baskets, but very little sediment intrusion. 






and this is how its all looking now, the balansae has definitely filled out...











Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Gary Nelson

*Re: Fluval Studio 900. C02... sorted!*

That looks lovely Ady and it looks like you have cracked it!   It looks very healthy too, Ive decided to set my G6 up this afternoon as I cant wait till tomorrow - hope I get the same results as you.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900. C02... sorted!*



			
				Gary Nelson said:
			
		

> That looks lovely Ady and it looks like you have cracked it!   It looks very healthy too,



Thanks very much Gary, still not entirely happy.... got a few adjustments to try yet but its definitely getting somewhere near my initial vision, albeit with a couple of slight alterations along the way.



			
				Gary Nelson said:
			
		

> Ive decided to set my G6 up this afternoon as I cant wait till tomorrow



Youll have great fun setting it up mate, playing with all the settings and getting childishly excited by the blue backlighting!!   
Cheerio
Ady.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... first video link.*

Ive uploaded a short video of the tank taken on my camera. 
Its not the greatest video but its my first attempt at uploading so is more of a test. The image quality is unlikely to change, im no editor or videographer however i may get some better footage of the tank as a whole without the tv background noise and me zooming in and out irratically! I think i may need a tripod for starters!
itll give an insight into the workings and i always enjoy watching other peoples videos myself.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0eJ71Oow ... e=youtu.be

Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Ian Holdich

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... first video added!*

great little vid Ady, the tank looks really healthy. Love it!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0eJ71Oow ... e=youtu.be

don't embed from the 'your channel', you have to click onto the main vid to get the embedded code from the address bar and just post it. It normally ends in 'be'.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... first video added!*



			
				ianho said:
			
		

> don't embed from the 'your channel', you have to click onto the main vid to get the embedded code from the address bar and just post it. It normally ends in 'be'.



Thanks Ian, i tried what youve suggested and edited my original post as a test, so the video now appears 'embedded' as you suggested, this is much better.... is it simply so the video appears in the journal without an external link or is there another reason for doing it this way? 
Ady.


----------



## Themuleous

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... first video added!*

Lovely tank, just lovely 

Sam


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... first video added!*



			
				Themuleous said:
			
		

> Lovely tank, just lovely
> 
> Sam



Thanks Sam, much appreciated.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... first video added!*

Another slightly longer FTS video taken before the disastrous crypt melt thats affected every type of crypt i have!


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... FTS video.*

Well a couple of weeks ago i suffered a serious crypt melt which affected every crypt species i have   . 
















It got worse from here, some completely melting away, and approx. 10 balansae stems needed to be removed, not good considering they took so long to settle.
I was a little disheartened to say the least, and rescape entered my mind! However prior to the melt the tank was looking at its best so i decided to knuckle down, do a bit of ukaps research and find out what was the cause .
Since setting the tank up ive had repeated crypt melt, normally only minor though and its always bugged me. Knowing crypts to be slightly sensitive to changing water perameters i blamed ph swings due to c02. Then from posting in the plants section of ukaps after this major melt, found a possible alternative  :idea: . Mg and Ca defficiency, probably due to my soft water area. I had also prior to the crypt melt stopped using buffers as was tired of chasing water perameters. The G6 showed a changing water condition as my conductivity reading dropped considerably over the course of 2 weeks worth of water changes. This should have set alarm bells ringing in my head   . Anyway, to cut a long story short, im now dosing sera mineral salts weekly to up Mg, Ca and K levels and the crypts are recovering well.
I have also noticed holes in some of the crypt leaves which i put down to a potassium deficiency, this also seems rectified by the addition of the mineral salts which contain K and easy life potassium fertiliser, as new leaves are hole free. However, i now have some deformation effecting new leaf growth on the crypts, and curling of the leaves on the hygrophila pinnatifida. After my c02 ran out, finding a refill in my area and the crypt melt issue, i had left c02 introduction at a low level, a dark green DC. I now am trying to get the c02 spot on as i feel this is the first step in correcting the issues im having. 
Im also considering a move away from TPN+ as a fertiliser and onto EI for both its 'providing in excess' nutrient benefits and also financial ones! Ill wait and see how the tank fares when ive got the c02 spot on first though, as i may have been adding and excess of TPN+, and may be able to reduce the current dosage whilst maintaining good results.
Anyway, things are now back on track, and after a recent trip to TGM, i have a couple of new species to try. Ive added some anubias petite to the most central branch as itll be a nice contrast to the moss and microsorum that are already spreading nicely along the adjacent branches. Also i have some hygrophila polysperma rosenvig, which admittedly is too bright for this tank and sticks out like a sore thumb! Perhaps a more suitable location would make it fit in more. I also purchased some hydrocotle sp. Japan, which is lovely but i fear will become rummy nose food, or not receive enough light at the substrate to thrive..... we can only try to see what works.
Anyway the water is clearer than it has ever been with the addition of purigen, the harlequins have been breeding, and im now in a much better frame of mind, satisfied to have addressed some of the issues im having.   
A couple of pics of how its now looking. 
















Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Radik

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Crypt melt and remedy!*

Crypt melts in my tank when I get low on CO2.. For example bottle is running out and I detect it too late. Once they get accustomed to CO2 and higher light they are like junkies.

PH swing is not issue but CO2.


----------



## ceg4048

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Crypt melt and remedy!*

Yes, that's correct. Crypts could care less about changing water parameters. They don't like it when  CO2 is changing in the negative direction though. Holes in plants, assuming not due to predation, is always a CO2 issue.

Cheers,


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Crypt melt and remedy!*

Hi Ady, what are the crypts with the red underleaf please?


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Crypt melt and remedy!*



			
				Radik said:
			
		

> Crypt melts in my tank when I get low on CO2.. For example bottle is running out and I detect it too late. Once they get accustomed to CO2 and higher light they are like junkies.
> 
> PH swing is not issue but CO2.





			
				ceg4048 said:
			
		

> Yes, that's correct. Crypts could care less about changing water parameters. They don't like it when CO2 is changing in the negative direction though. Holes in plants, assuming not due to predation, is always a CO2 issue.
> 
> Cheers,



Hi Radik and Ceg,
with reference to the c02 'running out' and changing 'in the negative direction', i presume this means a reducing of c02 concentration/availability? Is it the actual change in c02 concentration they dont like or the fact that they arnt getting the quantities they need? It seems a silly question, but i know crypts can fare well in non pressurised c02 tanks, and before going 'high tech' i never used to get crypt melt.... admittedly they never thrived, but they never melted (i suppose in non c02 injected tanks there is no change in c02 either way so perhaps i have just answered my own Q, but clarification would be appreciated). Also is it crypts in particular that cannot 'adapt' to reducing/fluctuating c02, or do they just show it in a more extreme way? As you will have read, i have also started dosing mineral salts (Mg, Ca & K), is it feasable that the crypts pre c02 running out, were compensating for the lack of these minerals with the uptake of c02 (at good levels).... i know plants can adapt to deficiencies in some minerals, but with the c02 running out also was this a step too far in their 'coping' mechanisms? Unfortunately there was a lot of changes going on in my tank at the time (c02 reducing, introduction of liquid carbon as a substitute, removal of glass covers= more intensity of  light, stopping of buffering) which isnt good and will probably mean ill never pinpoint exactly the reason... if not a combination of them all!! 
Sorry for getting so in depth about it, i know hitting the right levels of c02, and consistency of delivery is the key, but its just interesting to learn more about the relationships involved.
As a slight aside, I know algae can thrive in fluctuating c02 (eg when cylinders are running out), but is this down to the changing c02, or the way the plants are responding to the c02 changes, ie not thriving and thus unable to outcompete the algae?  
Also i noted in my previous post 





			
				Ady34 said:
			
		

> i now have some deformation effecting new leaf growth on the crypts, and curling of the leaves on the hygrophila pinnatifida.


 Is this likely to be attributed to low c02 concentrations, or some other defficiency?
Thanks.



			
				Antipofish said:
			
		

> Hi Ady, what are the crypts with the red underleaf please?



Hi Chris, 
they are crypt wendtti 'brown' and crypt wendtti 'tropica', i couldnt tell you exactly as they have intermingled, i suspect from what i remember of planting the more red undersides are likely to be the 'tropica' variety. Thing with crypts is they all seem to grow and look different in different tanks! 

Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Water change night again...*

Tank ticking along nicely again with no further crypt melt issues since adding mineral salts weekly and also upping the c02 introduction.... still tweaking, but hopefully getting there!

Water change night again, took a couple of different shots and thought id share them.












and a couple of the fish....











Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## creg

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Water change night again..*

one of my favourite tanks on here, beautiful


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Water change night again..*



			
				creg said:
			
		

> one of my favourite tanks on here, beautiful



Wow, thanks Creg, thats real nice to hear!
It lacks the refinement of some but its enjoyable to watch.  
Cheers,
Ady.


----------



## awtong

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Water change night again..*

I really like it too.  Glad you seem to have sorted your Crypt issues.  I am a bit of a Crypt-aholic  

Andy


----------



## Mr P

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Water change night again..*

that is a really nice looking tank,very impressed,keep up the good work.skankypup


----------



## Ian Holdich

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Water change night again..*

again, i also <3 this tank. I love that pic with the Harliquins in (3rd), it gives great depth.


----------



## ceg4048

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Crypt melt and remedy!*



			
				Ady34 said:
			
		

> [
> Hi Radik and Ceg,
> with reference to the c02 'running out' and changing 'in the negative direction', i presume this means a reducing of c02 concentration/availability? Is it the actual change in c02 concentration they dont like or the fact that they arnt getting the quantities they need? It seems a silly question, but i know crypts can fare well in non pressurised c02 tanks, and before going 'high tech' i never used to get crypt melt.... admittedly they never thrived, but they never melted (i suppose in non c02 injected tanks there is no change in c02 either way so perhaps i have just answered my own Q, but clarification would be appreciated). Also is it crypts in particular that cannot 'adapt' to reducing/fluctuating c02, or do they just show it in a more extreme way? Is this likely to be attributed to low c02 concentrations, or some other defficiency?


 A negative change in the CO2 concentration affects all plants adveresly but crypts respond especially poorly to this type of change. It's impossible to understand until one comes to grips with the way in which CO2 is obtained and used. A loss of CO2 typically cause tissue damage which results from the buildup of superoxides and free radicals. Here is a repeat of a summary of superoxide damage discussed in another thread:


			
				ceg4048 said:
			
		

> The mechanism of CO2 failure has to do with the chain of Reduction-Oxidation (Redox) reactions of photosynthesis. The energy of the light triggers the initial oxidation (electron ejection) of the chlorophyll. There is then a steady stream of electrons along this path and CO2 is used at the end of the chain. Inadequate CO2 causes the electron flow to "back up" which results in electrons being scattered and attracted to whatever molecules or ions that happen to be nearby. This creates some very damaging molecules called "Radicals", some of the most toxic Radicals are actually ionized Oxygen molecules called "SuperOxides". A famous Superoxide is H202, otherwise known as Hydrogen Peroxide and it is extremely toxic because it damages cell walls by pummelling them with the very same electrons it just gained.
> 
> This is THE reason CO2 failures cause such havoc, because the plant is unable to produce enough "Anti-Oxidants" to neutralize these free radicals. This is why you see holes in plants, disintegration and meltdown/mushiness when there is insufficient CO2. The plant is being poisoned from within by free radical formation caused by the over-abundance and loss of control of electrons. This is also why turning down the light helps. Less light causes less electron production.



The most important enzyme used to assimilate Carbon from CO2 is Rubisco. Failure of CO2 also affects the efficiency and productivity of this important enzyme as discussed in the thread=> http://ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=11320

People constantly fail to recognize just how important CO2 and CO2 stability is and how difficult it is to achieve. Non-CO2 enriched tanks have an advantage because although their CO2 level are very low, with time, the plants are able to adjust their internal chemistry to adapt to the low levels, but the levels typically are very stable. In an enriched tank, although the levels are higher, they tend to be unstable or their levels drift over time because we lack total control. This loss of control creates many problems because the plants essentially get "hooked" on a certain concentration level, and like a junkie they suffer severe withdrawal symptoms.

This is why crypts in a non-CO2 tank can flourish but then suffer when we add CO2. Just adding CO2 is not enough. All the downstream events that result in CO2 enrichment also have to be managed.

Cheers,


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Water change night again..*

Cheers guys,


			
				awtong said:
			
		

> I really like it too. Glad you seem to have sorted your Crypt issues. I am a bit of a Crypt-aholic
> Andy


Thanks Andy, crypts are a true gem of the planted tank.



			
				skankypup said:
			
		

> that is a really nice looking tank,very impressed,keep up the good work.skankypup


Thanks,    it feels rude calling you Skankypup!  



			
				ianho said:
			
		

> again, i also <3 this tank. I love that pic with the Harliquins in (3rd), it gives great depth.


Cheers Ian, id like that pic better if it was in focus and had no reflections    I think the addition of the anubias to the wood adds and extra layer to the depth, it keeps the eye focusing on the next thing, moving all the way to the back.... a fluke none the less, i dont understand photography!  

Thanks very much for the positive feedback, its nice to hear.
Ady.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Water change night again..*

Ceg, 
http://ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=11320
This is some read, the full ins and outs of plant/light/c02 relationships, highlighting the need for excellent stable c02, good flow and circulation to get the c02 to the plants fast enough, and the rate c02 is needed by the plant being driven by the amount of light  provided! 
Pleased im sticking with my current lighting, as increasing it would almost certainly have been a ticking bomb before id mastered the c02 first!
Once again very informative and much appreciated post.
Cheers,
Ady.


----------



## Deano3

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Water change night again..*

wow beautiful tank mate, i live near u in washington, just trying to get into this hobby and have myself a small nano to get started i have a 7.5l fluval spec with anubius in and have a 30l fluval ebi not set up yet just trying to get the stuff together, any aquatic shops u recomend ? hope my tank looks as good as urs one day,

well looking great will keep watching this one
Dean


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Water change night again..*



			
				Deano3 said:
			
		

> wow beautiful tank mate, i live near u in washington, just trying to get into this hobby and have myself a small nano to get started i have a 7.5l fluval spec with anubius in and have a 30l fluval ebi not set up yet just trying to get the stuff together, any aquatic shops u recomend ? hope my tank looks as good as urs one day,
> 
> well looking great will keep watching this one
> Dean



Hi Dean, and many thanks for the compliment.
I also have 2 fluval specs, one with anubias in... and siamese fighters. They were used as a bedside lamps, but now reside in the kitchen for ease of maintenance.
The ebi will definitely give more room for scaping potential and they look like good little set ups.
With regards shops to recommend, its tough around here for anything plant specialist that i know of anyway. I sometimes use Paddock farm water gardens at Croft. They are moving towards the planted side of the hobby and offer some C02 equipment, tropica substrates, oliver knott substrates and tropica fertilisers. They are setting up more display tanks, and expanding there ranges, but i think they are still learning too! Their fish selection is great and the tropical room has a few hidden gems. Plants are tropica (amongst others), reasonably priced but sometimes suffer algae if your not there for delivery day. Its prob about an hours drive from you though. Other than that im sure for fish your aware of Betta Aquaria in Newcastle, they normally have a good selection of healthy fish , and pets at home stock tropica plants at very reasonable prices.
I must admit that i like to support local, but when it came to sorting a planted set up ive made several longer distance trips to the Green Machine in Wrexham. They have everything you need and are very friendly, approachable and knowledgeable. Check out their website if you havnt already, they have some amazing display tanks instore and you can buy online and over the phone from them.
Anyway, hope you get everything sorted, start a journal up and theres tonnes of invaluable information within UKAPS, and plenty of folk willing to help.    I knew nothing 7 months ago, and this was my first attempt at planted too. Im sure you will have a nice looking tank, its all about listening, learning and most importantly, experiencing!
Cheerio for now,
Ady.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... C02 issues.*

Well c02 woes! 
Over the past few days ive been trying to further optimise c02, but have noticed towards the end of the c02 period the fish are acting unusually, hiding away in the corner uninterested in food.
Ive been slowly increasing to get a lime green dc for lights on, and maintain a comfortable level throughout the day. I think i have tipped it over the edge, tonight ive found a dead cardinal tetra, and then a dead otto  .
Im really struggling to optimise this and am currently starting c02 injection 3hrs pre photoperiod and off 3hrs before lights out (was 2.5 hrs pre lights out but have reduced this tonight to try and reduce c02 toxicity) To get a lime green dc for lights on and then not increase the c02 so much throughout the day to cause fish distress is proving v. difficult.
The balance between c02 introduction, c02 diffusion, c02 uptake and c02 gas off is very fine and must be tank specific. My bubble rate is uncountable, and although i have heard some glass bubble counters have narrower inlets thus exaggerating the bubble count, i think its a lot (guessing 10bps). Im considering moving to an inline system to see if this gives better results.... opinions on this course of action welcome.
Im also getting a re-occurence of staghorn algae and VERY minor crypt melt again (1 leaf)which is very annoying especially as im trying to optimise c02! Because of the staghorn i began dosing 5ml/day flourish excel 2 days ago also.
Ive uploaded a 3 min video which although not taken for this purpose, and if you have the patience to watch it for the zoom ins, shows quite well the flow and distribution around the tank. This video was taken tonight about 2 hrs after c02 turned off.... the fish have all resumed normal activity and the visible micro bubbles are probably oxygen but they show the flow patterns well.
The c02 diffuser is at the right rear of the tank in amongst the greenery, but c02 is pushed from here directly around the tank from the flow patterns created from the filter and additionally from the koralia circulation pump which sucks c02 misting in and down across the front of the tank into another downward stream and into the middle.

http://youtu.be/QMfjcZY9PXI


I feel that circulation and distribution are good but im not an expert, with the staghorn reappearing, and a tiny bit of crypt melt, combined with what i feel to be the brink of excess c02 (for fish) im at a loss as to whats going on really :?
Any help or advice would be much appreciated.
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## geaves

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... C02 issues!*

Ady, enjoyed watching the video lovely tank, but as a total n00b to this, and I don't mind if you say 'Geoff your talking out your .... mate'  but could the flow and the C02 be off setting each other?

What I'm looking at if you have a high flow rate around your tank, which your video clearly shows you would/may have to increase the C02 input for the plants to take in that C02....what I think I'm trying to say is that the C02 is being distributed to quickly for the plants to take it in before it's being lost.

If that makes sense,  :? 

Geoff


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... C02 issues!*



			
				geaves said:
			
		

> What I'm looking at if you have a high flow rate around your tank, which your video clearly shows you would/may have to increase the C02 input for the plants to take in that C02....what I think I'm trying to say is that the C02 is being distributed to quickly for the plants to take it in before it's being lost.
> 
> If that makes sense,



Hi Geoff,
yeah i can understand your point and for sure undissolved c02 bubbles may bypass the leaf, however dissolved c02 should be uptaken regardless? Im unsure too about how exactly the plants uptake the c02 and although i know they take it from direct contact and source it as dissolved c02 in the water, i dont know to what extent flow levels effect the latter? From what i have understood from reading and advice, its all about getting it to the leaves. The dc is lime green so im presuming dissolved levels are good, especially with reference to the fish behaviour described. I also then dont know whether the flow i have is too concentrated in 'jets' of water, however all round circulation seems good and all the plants gently sway.
Oh its complicated stuff.
Thanks for the input,
Ady.


----------



## Rabb.D

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... C02 issues!*

hmm thats a great looking tank Ady... i don't think thats too much flow imo, you might have read this link but i'll paste it anyways just in case viewtopic.php?f=38&t=1167

i know where you're coming from on the co2 issue... i think an inline external diffuser is a great choice i'm using one right now... and i'm happy with the results... and this is Ista i'm using i'm sure the atomizer inline diffuser would work much better, maybe one thing you could do if this makes sense is to extend the pre-light co2 even futher back but reduce the bubble count to have less stress on the fish and get that lime green you want for the dc... i set my co2 at 9.30 am and lights on at 2 pm and when the lights are on its lime green but at a lower bubble count than i used too.. i used to set it at 8bps....now at 4bps, fish have no sign of distress.. plants are doing well... except the hole in the crypts due to the negative change in the Co2 levels... just to compare i have 3 powerheads in my 182 liter with a total of 9000 lph... crazy right..? but the plants couldn't happier considering the ratings are accurate...


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... C02 issues!*



			
				Rabb.D said:
			
		

> hmm thats a great looking tank Ady...



Thanks, although its a little frustrating at the moment!



			
				Rabb.D said:
			
		

> i don't think thats too much flow imo, you might have read this link but i'll paste it anyways just in case viewtopic.php?f=38&t=1167



Hadnt read that link, but very informative, thanks for the heads up! Ceg is def an advocate of the spraybar and it does make a lot of sense. This tank, pre drilled and plumbed however doesnt have spraybar attachments, and its not standard fit pipework. I liked the drilled base to prevent the kids getting hold of filter pipes etc as they are still young, everything is neatly tucked away underneath... its limitations are now being realised, however there are many successful tanks without spraybars so i guess its just optimising what you have.


			
				Rabb.D said:
			
		

> i think an inline external diffuser is a great choice


I think ill look into them further as the c02 will then be distributed through the main circulation inlets from the filter which may help if there is a distribution issue. Also i may be suffering slightly with plant mass increase and the effect that has on distribution. Clive (ceg) alluded to this in a previous post, it does however seem to be a very fine line and the staghorn is in places of both high and lower flow. 


			
				Rabb.D said:
			
		

> maybe one thing you could do if this makes sense is to extend the pre-light co2 even futher back but reduce the bubble count to have less stress on the fish and get that lime green you want for the dc... i set my co2 at 9.30 am and lights on at 2 pm and when the lights are on its lime green but at a lower bubble count than i used too..


This is something im slowly thinking myself as you can probably tell with the 3hr before lights on period. Maybe i should do the same as you and further increase the period c02 is on before lights but at a lower bubble rate. Its obviously just been a little confusing when you hear the 1 hr pre lights on, 1 hr  pre lights off c02 regime and you kind of regiment to that..... its gettin clearer that every tank is different and you tweak accordingly!
Anyway thanks for the link and sharing your experiences, its reassuring to hear others have been through it too.  
Cheers,
Ady.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... c0 bloomin 2!*

Well to add to the returning staghorn problem i now have more minor crypt melt!!   
Back to 2x water changes per week again, flourish excel dosing for a week to rid the staghorn and then to sorting the problem!!!
I think it can be narrowed down now to c02 distribution. Im dosing mineral salts to add c and mg, im adding extra k with the salts too and additional k via 2.5ml daily of easy life kalium (potassium) so these possible reasons for crypt melt are covered. 
Ive been optimising the c02 levels, so im now guessing its distribution related. My plants have filled in considerably and this must be effecting things enough to be causing issue or at least adding to it.
I think a move to inline duffusion is the way forward to maximise distribution.
Away for a long weekend so its down to my brother to dose in my absence! 
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Ian Holdich

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... C0 bloomin 2!*

have you moved your drop checker down near the crypts??


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... C0 bloomin 2!*

Hi Ian,
looking at the tank its the crypts to the right under the branch that are showing some melting. The central crypts, touch wood, are going from strength to strength. The central crypts recieve a rolling current from converging flow patterns, however the right side crypts now are a little bypassed. The koralia pump was directed down towards these, however now when i look at it the bolbitis has spread considerably and diverts the flow and c02 more towards the front glass than across them. Ill give some of the larger bolbitis leaves a trim and see if this helps.


			
				ianho said:
			
		

> have you moved your drop checker down near the crypts??


i could do however itd have to go on the front glass and the flow is strong here and carries co2 almost directly from the diffuser so wouldnt be point accurate. 
Another plant which is struggling in here is the staurogyne repens at the left foreground, this area recieves very good flow and c02 directed along the front glass via the koralia, and also pushed down the front glass from one of the filter returns  :?
Im still struggling to get things right... i kind of want to start again, but think maybe i should perservere to sort these issues before moving on!? 
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## danmullan

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... C0 bloomin 2!*

Hi Ady,

Loving this journal, sorry to hear you're still having issues with algae and crypt melt.



			
				Ady34 said:
			
		

> Im still struggling to get things right... i kind of want to start again, but think maybe i should perservere to sort these issues before moving on!?



I would suggest stick with it, I have reached the point where it gets difficult with previous set-ups, and rather than carry on dealing with the issues, I broke the tank down and started again. I almost always wished I had stuck with it as I wasn't getting any experience in dealing with this kind of issue, and would often have the same problems with the new set-up. Also, not to forget, with a new substrate system, hardscape and plants, it is the more expensive option.

Having said that, the planning and set-up is my favourite part. I'd also quite like to see what type of scape you do next   

Cheers
Dan


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... C0 bloomin 2!*

Cheers Dan, 
my plan with this first attempt was to run it for a year to gain as much experience as possible. I know deep down that resolving the issues are important for experience and the future but man its wearing at the minute, especially with the crypt melt.
I feel this tank has evolved as much as it can now and I have so many ideas id like to try too. Ive recently bought some manzanita wood which is giving me the itch also.
With regards replacing the substrate, if i were to rescape i was going to post on the substrate forum to see if i would need to replace the lot, or if i could re-use the existing and add a little extra. I know recently Ian (Ianho) has reused his substrate, but i would have to confirm i could do the same with the ADA stuff.
Anyway, thanks for taking the time to post your thoughts, id like to see it through..... but who knows?
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Ian Holdich

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... C0 bloomin 2!*

Moving on is the way we learn IMO. I'm sure others will agree, others will disagree. Next time you'll plan around the issues you're having. At the end of the day you know why things are melting, i say if you get the feeling that you want to try another scape, try it (i £££ permits), you certainly have done brilliantly with this tank and again i'm sure everyone will agree with that. As for the substrate, yes reuse it if needs be, i think is Tom Barr that is using 5 year old Amazonia. The substrate tends to hold on to the good stuff if we are column dosing as well. I say do another scape, you don't want to be sat in front of the tank getting bored and thinking i wish i'd done this and that.


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... C0 bloomin 2!*

Hi Ady, I read this thread from start to finish last night and have thoroughly enjoyed it.  I agree with Ian(ho) that if you have the urge to do a new scape, you should do it.  You will continue to learn from your mistakes, but that does not have to be on the same setup.  You will be able to implement your new knowledge on a new scape and being new it will retain your interest rather than you carrying on learning on one that you are now "done with" as it were.  I can see from reading this thread and the images you have posted, just how much you have learned and to be honest its one of the most impressive tanks I have seen, so you clearly have the knack  

As far as substrate goes, when I decided I was not going to use all of the Colombo Florabase that I had, and wanted to sell it, the stuff I took out of the tank, I put in thin layers on baking trays (a quid from Asda if you dont want to annoy the Mrs using her best ones, lol) and baked in the oven for 20 minutes or so (some trays took longer if I had put more on them) until they were dry, then let them cool off (only takes 10 to 20 minutes) and bagged them up.  It took a few hours with quite a little factory going but I think it was a useful move.  The guy who bought it was happy with the result.  Also I have seen other people write that they rebake their clay based substrates... there is one type in particular but its name escapes me.  

My understanding is that because of its high CEC (cation exchange capacity) it will absorb ferts  where they are available, as well as release them.  Nothing to stop you buying some of the ADA substrate additives though, or putting in some fert tabs as well just to supplement it 

Anyway, great scape mate.  Make sure you do a really nice FTS before ripping it all apart though


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Moving on?*

hI,


			
				ianho said:
			
		

> Moving on is the way we learn IMO.





			
				ianho said:
			
		

> Next time you'll plan around the issues you're having.


yeah, i agree, but  i almost feel like im giving in, I would like to try ei ferts and inline injection with this set up to see if it alters things in any way for comparison before moving on, but maybe i should just get over it and try some new things on a new set up! 


			
				ianho said:
			
		

> As for the substrate, yes reuse it if needs be, i think is Tom Barr that is using 5 year old Amazonia. The substrate tends to hold on to the good stuff if we are column dosing as well.





			
				Antipofish said:
			
		

> My understanding is that because of its high CEC (cation exchange capacity) it will absorb ferts where they are available, as well as release them. Nothing to stop you buying some of the ADA substrate additives though, or putting in some fert tabs as well just to supplement it


Cheers for that, and wow 5 year old substrate!    I think if i rescape ill see what a mess my crypt roots make of pulling up the powersand and go from there..... finances dictate however that maybe topping off is the way forward, and i have loads of tpn+ root tabs i can supplement with.


			
				ianho said:
			
		

> I say do another scape, you don't want to be sat in front of the tank getting bored and thinking i wish i'd done this and that.


Your right, new wood has arrived and is offering plenty of food for thought, itll just be deciding what to do! 


			
				ianho said:
			
		

> you certainly have done brilliantly with this tank and again i'm sure everyone will agree with that.





			
				Antipofish said:
			
		

> and to be honest its one of the most impressive tanks I have seen,


Thanks for the encouragement guys, its had ups and downs and ive learned so much but maybe its time to move onwards and hopefully upwards. 
Cheers   ,
Ady.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Trim time.*

Been away on a long weekend break, and then been a bit ill so water change day was 8 days from the last, rather than the usual 6. Things had got a little bushy!

Thinned out quite a lot of bolbitis, crypt leaves and ecicularis, trimmed the pinitafida too and removed some balansae leaves to open things up a bit. Removed loads of silvania natans too. Just to show what gets removed, maybe not this much every week, but quite alot.
This is what was removed:







Lovely towel!!!











Pre-trim:






Post trim, hairgrass is a PITA to remove so left the parvula in the foreground for another day. Water a little bubbly after refilling, but definitely brighter and more open with better circulation again.






Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Trim time.*

Awesome Ady.  Looks great post trim   Is that hairgrass over on the right ? Which variety ? It looks cracking.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Trim time.*

Hi Chris,


			
				Antipofish said:
			
		

> Awesome Ady.  Looks great post trim   Is that hairgrass over on the right ? Which variety ? It looks cracking.



Hairgrass is right foreground, short stuff is eleocharis parvula and the longer one at the very right is eleocharis ecicularis which needs still needs a trim.
The ecicularis i trimmed was in the centre rear which was so long it reached the surface! You can see it in the EDIT... post trim (not pre trim as is previously written) photo behind the hygrophila polysperma rosenvig.
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline c02.*

Hi,
well, although rescaping is a consideration ive decided to carry out a few 'tests' with this current set up to see if there are any noticeable improvements/changes in the system.
Ive started by adding inline c02 to see if this improves distribution via the filter oulet. Im using a Boyu inline diffuser (thanks Chris - freelanderuk), so time will tell if this helps/hinders things. Ill have a better idea tomorrow when things have settled after tonights water change. Fresh dc reagent has been added to ensure the most accurate dc reading. Fish behaviour will be monitored as diffusion may be different than the previous in tank system. C02 rate will then be tweaked accordingly if necessary.
The next change will be a switch to EI ferts, im going to try a Tobi's special mix with added Mg and Ca from Aquarium Plant Food Uk. This will begin when my current TPN+ runs out (2 weeks ish) and will give me a chance to see if there are any changes due to the inline c02 first.
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*

WOW!!!!
inline c02 rocks..... came home from work to find a tank full of micro bubbles.... and i mean full, from top to bottom, left to right, front to back.... awesome. Lime green dc still, but distribution and bubble size are 100% improved. The plants will be getting an overdose of c02 as the misting is everywhere   
I know some folk dont like c02 mist in the tank, but for me its great to see c02 everywhere and in such fine bubbles. 
The diffuser 'hisses' a little as the c02 is pushed through, but hardly audible when the cabinet door is closed, and im sure it could be lagged to make it even quieter. A small price to pay for the improvement though, cant wait to see if this results in better plant growth.
Dont know why i never tried this sooner?! :? 
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## John S

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*



			
				Ady34 said:
			
		

> I know some folk dont like c02 mist in the tank, but for me its great to see c02 everywhere and in such fine bubbles.
> Ady.



That's why I like it, I can see the distribution and the flow pattern. As far as misting goes when I first used it the fish became a bit shy for a couple of weeks but then they got used to it.

Your tank looks great


----------



## Iain Sutherland

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*

I just switched back to an inline from in tank diffusers, i reckon it put me back 2 weeks from new.  The inlines just seem easier to find the balance as the mist does give a good visual guide.  I still hate the mist but having it prefilter reduces it enough i can live with it.
Will be interesting to see what, if any, difference it makes to your plant health in an already heathy tank.


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*

Hey Ady, doesnt the boyu have 9mm apertures ? Do you find this affects your flow ?


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*



			
				davem said:
			
		

> when I first used it the fish became a bit shy for a couple of weeks but then they got used to it.
> 
> Your tank looks great


Hi Dave,
thanks, the fish seem to be unphased by the new mist, although the Harlequins are still hiding away a little at peak c02 as they were before, but they soon reappear an hour or so after the gas goes off. Its quite interesting watching the fish behaviour and gives you a feel for those more 'tolerant' of higher c02..... the rummy noses seem to be the least effected and continue their business regardless, the harlequins seem more sensitive and as said, shy a way a little when its peaking. Amano shrimp dont seem bothered at all.


			
				easerthegeezer said:
			
		

> Will be interesting to see what, if any, difference it makes to your plant health in an already heathy tank.


mmm... relitively healthy, but continuing crypt melt, a little staghorn and very slow growth of some plants notably staurogyne repens left foreground, the moss on the wood has stopped growing after initially needing heavy pruning, and the hydrocotle sp japan is at a standstill too. This suggests something is still imbalanced... crypts are probably down to co2, but unsure about the staurogyne and hydrocotle, they appear to be being predated....healthy plants however should grow strongly enough to overcome a little nibble? Just the other night i noticed the first large and healthy hydrocotle leaf, which the next morning was halved! Dont know whether this is fish, snails or shrimp?
In this respect it will be interesting to see if the better dispersal and misting of c02 improves things, and that in fact the poor growth of some species is down to c02 as is normally the case. May also add some weight to the theory of c02 misting directly landing on the leaves aiding the plants..... well see.


			
				Antipofish said:
			
		

> Hey Ady, doesnt the boyu have 9mm apertures ? Do you find this affects your flow ?


Hi Chris,
the boyu i have is 16-22mm, i trimmed the excess taper on either end to reduce as much 'backflow' as possible within the filter pipes, although i understand that the internal measurement is 16mm regardless. I havnt noticed a significant flow reduction from what i can see of the water movement within the tank, the G6 still says full flow, however im not convinced this function is working correctly as i have in the past observed noticeable flow drop off due to pre filter soiling without a reduction showing on the G6 monitor.  
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*

Noticing a bit more crypt melt on balansae and wendtii brown/tropica, unsure as to weather this is a reaction to previous c02 irregularities or due to the change to the inline diffuser.
From what i understand inline c02 is more efficient (some even need to reduce bubble rate), and certainly the visual micro bubbles and distribution around the tank support this, but could there actually be less c02 being offered? No changes have been made to the needle valve so the same amount of c02 is being offered as before, the dc is still lime green, however this could theoretically be more effected by the greater contact with the micro bubbles... and a false reading. Fish seem to be responding similarly to before, however seem quicker to resume 'full action' after c02 off.
Ill monitor for a few more days and adjust upwards if necessary.
Ady.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*

Hi, little update...
Not too happy with the fish in this level of c02, the harlequins arnt comfortable at all and it seems stupid making them suffer. DC is lime green for lights on and by the end of c02 is borderline yellow. Maybe ill try tweaking it down a fraction, but turning it on 15 mins sooner. Hopefully this will achieve lime green dc throughout and help the fish out a bit.
No significant improvements to the slow/stunted plant growth on the staurogyne repens and hydrocotle sp Japan  :? , although the moss is showing some sign of returning to a more vibrant green colour. Pearling has increased on the plants (not the be all and end all i know), but overall the tank seems to look more vibrant. Crypts looking full of colour again, and maybe not so much melting, but still some.
Some plants are growing well, others not so well. Pruning all the hygrophilas regularly and both eleocharis species. Both fern species growing really strongly and the anubias nana petite i positioned on the wood (hidden) is also doing well..... i found it again the other day when pruning some stems. Funnily a few surviving stems of Ludwigia arcuata have renewed vigour too, not really red, but certainly looking healthier. All in all i can say that the plants have responded well to the inline c02, so im getting either better distribution, or they like the contact with the micro bubbles..... probably both!   
Nearly out of TPN+ so will be starting my APFUK spezial 'n' type macro mix ferts within a few days, and dosing micro salts too. Will see if this makes any difference.
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*

C02 rate reduced slightly and on 15 mins sooner. Fish happier, plants still pearling and dc still lime green.....ill await a sulk from my crypts! 
I repositioned the dc to mid rear centre last night after water change, this is the third position its been in and still lime green, so distribution seems good. May try and place it as low as i can in a rear corner.
Also added some tpn+ capsules under the staurogyne and hydrocotle in the sand bed.
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## John S

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*

How long is your CO2 on before lights Ady?

Good news that the fish are happier.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*



			
				davem said:
			
		

> How long is your CO2 on before lights Ady?
> 
> Good news that the fish are happier.



Hi,
on 3 and a half hours pre lights and off 3 hrs before lights off.
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*



			
				Ady34 said:
			
		

> davem said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How long is your CO2 on before lights Ady?
> 
> Good news that the fish are happier.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> on 3 and a half hours pre lights and off 3 hrs before lights off.
> Cheerio,
> Ady.
Click to expand...


Hi Ady. If it goes off that soon before lights out, what colour is the DC at lights out ? Is it still lime ?


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*



			
				Antipofish said:
			
		

> Hi Ady. If it goes off that soon before lights out, what colour is the DC at lights out ? Is it still lime ?


Hi Chris,
yeah its still lime, maybe a little darker than before c02 off. The tank needs time to degas, and the dc is a couple of hours behind this so its not a reflective reading im sure.... add this to the fact that the fish are much more active and hungry about an hour after c02 off leads me to believe it degasses considerably within an hour or so after c02 off. 
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*



			
				Ady34 said:
			
		

> Antipofish said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Ady. If it goes off that soon before lights out, what colour is the DC at lights out ? Is it still lime ?
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Chris,
> yeah its still lime, maybe a little darker than before c02 off. The tank needs time to degas, and the dc is a couple of hours behind this so its not a reflective reading im sure.... add this to the fact that the fish are much more active and hungry about an hour after c02 off leads me to believe it degasses considerably within an hour or so after c02 off.
> Cheerio,
> Ady.
Click to expand...


If only we could work out the lag time of a DC.  I am sure you worked out the point I was getting at is "Is there still enough CO2 available towards the end of the photoperiod?"


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*



			
				Antipofish said:
			
		

> I am sure you worked out the point I was getting at is "Is there still enough CO2 available towards the end of the photoperiod?"


Oh, yeah im sure there is, the plants ease off towards the end of the photoperiod and to be honest the highest point of pearling is funnily the hour before lights off  :? .
Clive stated somewhere that you can turn off the gas between 2 and 5hrs before the end of the photoperiod as long as you have lime green dc for lights on when the plants need it most. I know you cant believe everything you hear... but with the Ceg, id bet money on it!  
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*



			
				Ady34 said:
			
		

> Clive stated somewhere that you can turn off the gas between 2 and 5hrs before the end of the photoperiod as long as you have lime green dc for lights on when the plants need it most.


Hi Chris, heres the quote from clive:
"Set the timer so that the CO2 comes on, say, 90-120 minutes before the lights come on. That allows you to saturate the water with CO2 before the uptake demand starts. When the light goes on, if there is sufficient CO2, photosynthesis can begin at peak efficiency immediately. Then, set the timer so that the CO2 shuts down anywhere between 2-5 hours before lights go out. CO2 is critical in the morning but less so in the afternoon. This strategy allows you to use much higher injection rates - but be careful in setting the rate so that you don't gas your fish."
Ive just recently been reading about lowest lighting levels for plants, the Light Compensation Point - LCP, in another thread and this came up so it was fresh in my mind..... im not turning into a UKAPS geek.....  ...... maybe a little!
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*



			
				Ady34 said:
			
		

> Ady34 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clive stated somewhere that you can turn off the gas between 2 and 5hrs before the end of the photoperiod as long as you have lime green dc for lights on when the plants need it most.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Chris, heres the quote from clive:
> "Set the timer so that the CO2 comes on, say, 90-120 minutes before the lights come on. That allows you to saturate the water with CO2 before the uptake demand starts. When the light goes on, if there is sufficient CO2, photosynthesis can begin at peak efficiency immediately. Then, set the timer so that the CO2 shuts down anywhere between 2-5 hours before lights go out. CO2 is critical in the morning but less so in the afternoon. This strategy allows you to use much higher injection rates - but be careful in setting the rate so that you don't gas your fish."
> Ive just recently been reading about lowest lighting levels for plants, the Light Compensation Point - LCP, in another thread and this came up so it was fresh in my mind..... im not turning into a UKAPS geek.....  ...... maybe a little!
> Cheerio,
> Ady.
Click to expand...



How on earth does morning and afternoon apply in a fish tank ?  Do the plants get used to the length of photoperiod and adjust their "daytime clock" accordingly ? Does the fact that it is daylight or the room lights are on but not the tank lights affect this at all ?  Some people have 6 hour photoperiods and others 10 hours.  How do the plants work out what is morning and afternoon, that being the case ?  Now you have opened up a whole world of questions and confused me more, LOL.  Aaarghh....


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*



			
				Antipofish said:
			
		

> How on earth does morning and afternoon apply in a fish tank ? Do the plants get used to the length of photoperiod and adjust their "daytime clock" accordingly ? Does the fact that it is daylight or the room lights are on but not the tank lights affect this at all ? Some people have 6 hour photoperiods and others 10 hours. How do the plants work out what is morning and afternoon, that being the case ? Now you have opened up a whole world of questions and confused me more, LOL. Aaarghh....


Hi Chris, i think morning and afternoon is based purely on the tank photoperiod, not our daytime periods. The morning/afternoon analogy is used for us to distinguish between the time periods, with the 'afternoon' meaning later in the photoperiod when the plants naturally slow their uptake rates, although i have often wondered about the effect sunlight has on the tank before lights on (my lights dont come on till 3 in the afternoon and go off at 11pm so i can enjoy the tank, and the room is naturally quite bright). I think the plants get used to whatever photoperiod you set and are programmed to uptake nutrients to make food when the lights come on... or the sun rises in nature, (afterall plants come from all over the world from many different time zones so there food production time will be based purely on the hours of sunlight). As for photoperiods and short and long ones, its prob what works best for you and what lighting you use, plant mass, growth rates, c02 and nutrient uptake etc. The c02 off 2-5 hours period is probably a figure associated with photoperiod length also, as with a shorter, say 6 hr photoperiod you obviously dont want to be switching your c02 off 5 hrs before lights out... but with a longer one you can get away with it. Its all proportionate i think. We need to remember that in nature the daylight hours are more like 12hr periods, including less intense sunrise/sunset times, and shading, cloud cover etc variables also. Our tanks give a constant source which needs balancing with all the other varaibles we provide.
Would be interesting to find out more about the effects of natural daylight on our tanks before the actual artificial photoperiod we provide.... if there are any other than creating a bga line along the substrate   .
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*

Well, water change night again last night, i did a bit of trimming, and decided to remove the Hygrophila polysperma rosanervig, it was growing too fast and needed constant pruning and was too large for the central area. This has left a little gap, but given a more open feel again which is better as it looked very cluttered. There are still a few crypts in there so may just leave it and let them fill back in. Removed some Monosolenium from the right under the bolbitis too, maybe put something in there or let the hairgrass fill that in again. Balansae is chucking shoots up all over now, and in fact the whole tank is looking a little overgrown and some of the plants a little oversized.... its not what you would call 'delicate'! 
Things are ticking along, but its not setting the world alight and im still feeling the urge to do something. Ive been considering setting up a nano shrimp tank, but i may be just as well rescaping this. 
Anyway obligatory photos, nothing much different but ill add a splash of colour to the page. Sorry for very repetative photos but i cant seem to get decent close ups with my new camera:

















Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## John S

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*

Looking really good Ady


----------



## HarryRobinson

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*

A real jungle! Beautiful tank matey


----------



## Ian Holdich

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*

still love this tank!

what are you dosing in it?? as the plants must drink the ferts like milk!


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*

Looking great Ady


----------



## whinnie

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*

ady any chance of a full room shot just to see how it sits in the living room now, its looking cracking, cheers


----------



## HarryRobinson

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*

ditto on whinnie's comment


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*



			
				davem said:
			
		

> Looking really good Ady





			
				HarryRobinson said:
			
		

> A real jungle! Beautiful tank matey





			
				Antipofish said:
			
		

> Looking great Ady


Cheers Dave, Harry and Chris! 



			
				ianho said:
			
		

> still love this tank!
> 
> what are you dosing in it?? as the plants must drink the ferts like milk!


Hi Ian, cheers, and yeah the tanks been getting like a sponge and i'd been slowly increasing my ferts until i got to 15ml/day Tropica plant nutrition+ and that got a little expensive. I dont really know if that was too little, but i didnt fancy putting more in as id have had to starve the kids to feed the plants!    Ive also been dosing 2.5ml daily of easy life Potassium and 4ml/day of Flourish excel as a carbon boost. Just the other day i switched to a dry salts special n type macro mix from APFUK and am currently dosing 10ml/day of that along with 5-10ml/day normal tpn (old stock) as a micro fert until it runs out, then ive got a micro salt mix to use, again from APFUK. Im still dosing the liquid carbon and the K, i have no idea really yet at what level all of these need to be, or infact whether i still even need to dose the K? Interestingly ive immediately noticed a difference in the amount these ferts raise my conductivity reading on the G6. It rises much faster than before, and maybe suggests i dont need as much, but maybe its alot more complicated than that and depends on what ions are going in and how conductive they are???.....   Maybe ill let the plants tell me, theyre probably easier to understand!


			
				whinnie said:
			
		

> ady any chance of a full room shot just to see how it sits in the living room now, its looking cracking, cheers





			
				HarryRobinson said:
			
		

> ditto on whinnie's comment


Sure, my photography isnt up to much but heres a few to give you an idea:






My favourite chair!










Hope that places it for you.   
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*

Cats and Dogs.  NOW you go to the top of my "cool list" hehe.  (Yes I am a cat and dog lover !) That cabinet is very high gloss. I LOVE it !  is it the one that came with the tank ?


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*



			
				Antipofish said:
			
		

> Cats and Dogs. NOW you go to the top of my "cool list" hehe. (Yes I am a cat and dog lover !)



Hi Chris,
yeah 2 cats and a dog, its like a zoo here with the fish inside and outside too! Mittens (cat) and Bowser (dog) are just chillin out after tearing up the carpet playing, Smudge (the other cat) isnt up for the shannanigans so buggers off upstairs for a quiet life!



			
				Antipofish said:
			
		

> That cabinet is very high gloss. I LOVE it ! is it the one that came with the tank ?



Yeah it came with the tank, its what attracted me to the set up really, it matches the gloss of the tv and fire.... mmm think that sounded a bit Laurence Llewellyn-Bowen!   
On that note... 
cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## awtong

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*

That is looking cracking.  No need to apologise for photo's like that.

Andy


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*



			
				awtong said:
			
		

> That is looking cracking. No need to apologise for photo's like that.
> 
> Andy


Thanks Andy,
i should really invest some time into researching how to get the best from my camera, but maybe for the best, i just dont have the interest in photography to start learning something new and i fear it would open up another potential moneypit!!  Maybe i could ask for a few pointers in the photography section just to get some basic tips to improve slightly..... iso, shutter speed etc all makes no sense to me.... but blurry fish i dont like!   
I tried taking a few shots of the plants last night and managed to get a couple of decent ones so may post a few more soon.
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Ian Holdich

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*

take the ISO up to get a decent fish shot. I always have my ISO set to 800-1600, this will give you a sharp, but a little grainy capture. I found it a help to have a look at the pics i liked of flickr and have a look where it says 'what make of camera it was taken by and it'll give you all the ISO, lens mm's, F numbers etc etc.


----------



## Gary Nelson

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*

Your tank looks fantastic Ady and it suits your room well - Bowser looks very comfortable too! 

How do you find the actual tank and light? Ive looked at these online a few times and been quite tempted.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900.*



			
				ianho said:
			
		

> take the ISO up to get a decent fish shot. I always have my ISO set to 800-1600, this will give you a sharp, but a little grainy capture. I found it a help to have a look at the pics i liked of flickr and have a look where it says 'what make of camera it was taken by and it'll give you all the ISO, lens mm's, F numbers etc etc.


Cheers Ian, ill have a look at my camera and figure out how to adjust these settings. I remember when buying the camera that some reviews said it was limited at ISO 800^ so ill have to suck it and see.



			
				Gary Nelson said:
			
		

> Your tank looks fantastic Ady and it suits your room well - Bowser looks very comfortable too!
> 
> How do you find the actual tank and light? Ive looked at these online a few times and been quite tempted.


Cheers Gary, 
yeah Bowser likes relaxing like one of us on the sofa!
Heres a link back to a previous post when i mini reviewed the tank, my opinion is still the same.... overall i like it, probably wouldnt go pre drilled again though, next time i scape it ill be capping the return and using a spraybar most likely.... or i could cap both and use glassware... 8) 



			
				Ady34 said:
			
		

> Gary Nelson said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi
> 
> How are you finding the 'Fluval Studio 900' I have been thinking very seriously in getting one as the dimensions are the perfect size for our lounge, but cant seem to find any stores nearby that actually have one on display for me to inspect. I really like the black and silver look and the lighting. I was tempted to go for a rio 180 in white, but not that keen on the cabinet.
> What do you think of the build quality, lighting and so on... any info would be great or any problems you may have found?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Gary,
> i have to say overall im very pleased with the studio tank and cabinet. My reason for choosing it was it fitted the style and colour combo (black gloss and brushed aluminium) of our front room perfectly, plus i thought it to be a much more modern take on aquarium styling compared with the juwel tanks. My old tank was a rio 180 on dark wood and it served me well, the new white gloss is nice but i feel they could have altered the stands to 'modernise' them and give some extra storeage space also.
> Ive taken a few shots of the tank/stand in situ for you to have a look at. I know that its never the same as seeing one in the flesh, but it may help.
> 
> Full tank/stand showing gloss level of the stand (reflection of skirting).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The gloss level is really high and the finish excellent.
> The stand itself is really solid, much better quality than some of the recent fluval stands! It, like the tank, is very weighty and instills confidence immediately and door adjusments are accurate so you can get perfect symmetry.
> 
> The under cabinet area is also large with two equally sized 'cupboards' big enough for any amount of clutter. With a 70cm height, co2 and filter equipment have little restriction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The lighting is neat and includes an integrated reflector... which it needs, 2x 39w ho t5 tubes on 180l isnt high light, but also it has to penetrate the glass sliding covers and condensation as shown below! I personally like the glass covers as they prevent things being thrown in, evaporation and importantly fish jumping out! You can of course remove them. My only real issue with the lighting is when fixed on the sliders, there is no height adjustment so the lighting sits quite close to the water surface and with the shape of the lighting unit the light spread isnt wide so you tend to get 'dark spots' for about an inch water depth at the front and rear water surface. The lighting unit does incorporate two neat little hooks so you can suspend from the ceiling if you like which would eliminate this problem (....but then blind you when you sat down on your sofa!!!) Also you could purchase an additional lighting unit and run 2 on the top which again would eliminate this problem and give extra light depending upon requirements.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Below is an image of the tank in a dark room to show the light dissipation from the tank.... much different from a closed top tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like the tank and stand and they are both solid designs, the tank made from 10mm glass. The drilled base is already plumbed and simple to attach piping too. I wish the drilled base came with a sided option though as i would have preferred my pipes at right hand side! This may not be an issue for you. Obviously when you buy a tank design like this you cant add glassware so are stuck with the filter uplifts as they are (unless you capped the drilled base fixings and added seperate hoses etc)... but i presume like myself you like the simplicity of the internal plumbing which also makes filter priming easy due to gravity!!! There is no spray bar attachment available, and i think the piping is an unusual size so you might have to be a bit of an engineer to cobble something up if you wanted this option.
> Like i said at the beginning of my journal, its not opti white nor ADA quality, but i love it.. its not die hard aquascaper material, but its a much more contemporary design than most all in ones out there and bridges the gap i feel.
> Sorry for being a bit long winded, i hope theres something useful there for you and its always nice to get something new!
> Cheerio for now.
> Ady.
Click to expand...


----------



## Ian Holdich

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*

Always love reading your posts Ady...I also believe you have done right by having a tank and stand that suits its surroundings. You are the one sat watching it every night not us, although I wouldn't mind watching your tank every night.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*



			
				ianho said:
			
		

> Always love reading your posts Ady...I also believe you have done right by having a tank and stand that suits its surroundings. You are the one sat watching it every night not us, although I wouldn't mind watching your tank every night.


Thanks mate,
ive been told before that i go on a bit!   
When i win the lottery ill be gettin an ADA 120 with black gloss stand.... if they dont supply black gloss ill get it sprayed at work!

Heres my microsorum petite pearling.... and a nosey cardinal:




Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*

I SERIOUSLY need to bulk up on my plants !!!  Your tank is looking fantastic Andy.  Love it to bits.  And the crypts in that pic (Tropica ?) give just hint of reddish that works a treat.  It almost matches the purple wallpaper , hehe.


----------



## faizal

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*

This tank is simply getting better & better,...  
Congratulations. I am loving that comfy sofa with the perfect view too Ady. I could sit there all day.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*



			
				Antipofish said:
			
		

> I SERIOUSLY need to bulk up on my plants !!! Your tank is looking fantastic Andy. Love it to bits. And the crypts in that pic (Tropica ?) give just hint of reddish that works a treat. It almost matches the purple wallpaper , hehe.


Much appreciated Chris, its amazing looking back how much the plants have grown. Admittedly there have been some additions to help fill it in, but slow growers like the ferns surprise you when you see what they started off as!


			
				faizal said:
			
		

> This tank is simply getting better & better,...
> Congratulations. I am loving that comfy sofa with the perfect view too Ady. I could sit there all day.


Cheers faizal, the chair gets well used   .

Well, ive been touring a few shops this weekend and saw some great fish in a shop ive not visited before, in particular some lovely 'Kitty' tetras. Id never even heard of them and was so tempted to get some.... but managed to resist. Theyre a yellow/gold deep bodied tetra and if i didnt already have so many fish id have snapped 6 up as i think they would have looked great. The shop also had a good selection of 'nano' fish and some rocket killifish which i love. 
Anyway to cut a long story short ive scratched the 'what to do next' itch by buying myself a new nano tank  8) . Im going to keep the Studio running for a while and continue trying to iron out a few issues and test out the new fertilisers. Still not 100% sure on the way the nano is going, but thinking excel supplimented and possibly non heated CRS shrimp tank.... although i do like some nano fish so this may change   . 
Its an Aqua One Aquanano 40, 55l cube with 18w PL lighting and inbuilt rear filter chamber hiding all the unsightly running gear. Ive got a load of Dragon stone left from scaping the Studio, and lots of Manzanita wood from George F to play with, so substrate apart shouldnt cost too much to get going.....may not even put a planted substrate in and use ferns, anubias and mosses to plant it up, but who knows  :?: .... 
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*

Water change night again so posting an update. 
Pretty much status quo, added some Blyxa Japonica (thanks Jimmyjames) to the centre behind the crypts and a little spare which i put at the far left to see how it does with less light. Its a much smaller plant than i imagined and its difficult to see it behind the mega crypts! Lovely looking though and a very nice bright green colour. 
Moss is definitely improving again, maybe down to the ferts but maybe also something to do with the fact that ive been wafting detrius from it at water change time..... it was very mucky!   
Slight trim of hygrophila corymbosa at the right rear, its really thickening up now and needs weekly pruning to keep it in check.
Wishing now in hindsight that i hadnt bothered with the sand bed. Its all but invisible now what with aquasoil invasion and plant mass, and i would rather have had a full foreground of eleocharis parvula... its starting to spread into the gravel so maybe in time itll do it itself.
Pretty certain that the hydrocotle and staurogyne are being predated by snails, every new leaf is munched daily and ive seen the snails circling the hydrocotle leaves making them smaller with each round trip! Want some loaches (zebra or dwarf chain) to sort this problem but knowing theyll probably make a snack of my shrimp too its weighing up the pros and cons   .
Conductivity getting up to 650 EC us/cm pre water change time so reducing the amount of mineral salts added by half to try and reduce this a little for the soft water fish....not that they seem bothered, but itll save me a few pence in mineral salts!!! 
C02 typically choosing the best possible time to start to run out....bank holiday weekend   . When i get it refilled will look into getting a back up cylinder!
With c02 running out ill post some pre crypt sulk photos, think when it completely runs out ill leave the lights off until i get a refill to reduce c02 related issues.











Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*

Ady I dream of the day I can look at my tank and be as satisfied as you should be with that.  Its flaming brilliant !  I LOVE Blyxa too.  Wish I had never got rid of mine and am hoping that some will be in on an order I am waiting for next week.  Zebra loach ROCK ! (as do dwarf chains) but man they are expensive.  Hope you solve the snail problem.  How about assassins ?  It could be they get rid of the others and will not predate your plants?


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*



			
				Antipofish said:
			
		

> Ady I dream of the day I can look at my tank and be as satisfied as you should be with that. Its flaming brilliant ! I LOVE Blyxa too. Wish I had never got rid of mine and am hoping that some will be in on an order I am waiting for next week. Zebra loach ROCK ! (as do dwarf chains) but man they are expensive. Hope you solve the snail problem. How about assassins ? It could be they get rid of the others and will not predate your plants?



Very kind words Chris, thanks.
Yeah the blyxa came up in the for sale section so thought it a good opportunity as tropica dont seem to do it, or at least its not on TGM plant list or in the catalogue. Nowhere seems to have it, dont know if its anything to do with the plant/pesticide issues from the far east?
I love loaches, and had a group of 5 zebras that id had for about 4 years that i sold on when i set up this tank   .
Ive seen some zebra loaches and a few others around and stumbled across 4 dwarf chain loach in one of my lfs the other day. Unfortunately they were in a tank that had just taken a new batch of hatchetfish which had whitespot and the loaches were flicking a bit so at £7.99 each thought best to leave alone.... shame as nowhere seems to have any at the moment.
As for the Assassin snails, unsure but think they might like harder water than im aiming for, but ill check them out....also heard they leave nasty hard egg deposits all over? Got a tip elsewhere about leaving some cucumber in the tank overnight which the snails feed on and then you can just lift them out on mass... ill give that a go too!
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Iain Sutherland

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Inline C02.*

carrot or cucumber in a jar overnight works a treat mate.  Assassins dont deposit eggs like that mate, that will be pesky nerite snails that do that.
Also airline hose or slightly larger hose used to suck them out an hour or two after lights out will make short work of them.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Operation snail removal.*



			
				easerthegeezer said:
			
		

> carrot or cucumber in a jar overnight works a treat mate. Assassins dont deposit eggs like that mate, that will be pesky nerite snails that do that.
> Also airline hose or slightly larger hose used to suck them out an hour or two after lights out will make short work of them.


Cheers Iain,
just googled them, and your right its nerites that deposit hard eggs. Assasins seem to prefer neutral/alkaline conditions, but ive got loads of snails now, so if i see any assassins i may get a few and see how they do for the long term control. Short term ill stick some veg in and manually remove.
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Little video.*

Hi,
little video taken on the camera:



Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Ian Holdich

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... little video.*

superb mate, that really is a beautiful tank. There's loads going on in there. The plants look super healthy. I don't really know what else to say.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... little video.*



			
				ianho said:
			
		

> superb mate, that really is a beautiful tank. There's loads going on in there. The plants look super healthy. I don't really know what else to say.


Cheers Ian, and more than enough said   
Took the vid the other day but it takes about 2 hours to download to you tube for some reason and the computer has been randomly switching itself off so only managed to get it on today!! Changed the camera setting to film in VGA 640 x 480 size for future in hope of faster downloads.
I still really should invest in a tripod too. 
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## mario

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... little video.*

wow, such a beautiful and natural looking tank, congratulations.


----------



## awtong

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... little video.*

A cracking watch.  Those Crypts in the centre are lush.

Andy


----------



## Timms2011

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... little video.*

This is amazing, perfect looking setup..a pleasure to follow your journal and watch the video.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... little video.*



			
				mario said:
			
		

> wow, such a beautiful and natural looking tank, congratulations.


Thanks Mario, 
the wife described it as looking 'a bit full' the other day.... maybe thats her way of saying natural   !



			
				awtong said:
			
		

> A cracking watch. Those Crypts in the centre are lush.
> 
> Andy


.....just waiting for them to melt with c02 running out    refill this week   !



			
				Timms2011 said:
			
		

> This is amazing, perfect looking setup..a pleasure to follow your journal and watch the video.


Thanks Timms,
its been a pleasure  to do the journal in all honesty. UKAPS has so many members willing to give help and encouragement without which id have never got to the stage where everything is looking pretty green and healthy. Its been a journey and a great learning experience and the tank seems to be pretty stable now, and most things that go wrong i can attribute to one thing or another. 
Maybe not the perfect set up as theres always something you could improve, but ive always liked the 'fuller' look, and now ive been able to achieve this so a big    to ukaps and everyone on here and all the positive feedback, its very much appreciated.

Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... little video.*

C02 ran out yesterday, left the lights off yesterday and today, c02 refilled and back on now so hopefully minimal plant growth disruption! 
Made the mistake of closing the needle valve so previous settings gone, will now need to faff on for a few days to get it set right again   .... that may cause me more issues than having no c02 for a day! still learning....
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... little video.*

Bloomin nuiscance huh ?  Im sure you will get the needle valve setting back to pretty much what it was without too much problems though.  I can get mine looking to what I know it should be now.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Disaster.*



			
				Ady34 said:
			
		

> C02 ran out yesterday, left the lights off yesterday and today, c02 refilled and back on now so hopefully minimal plant growth disruption!
> Made the mistake of closing the needle valve so previous settings gone, will now need to faff on for a few days to get it set right again   .... that may cause me more issues than having no c02 for a day! still learning....Cheerio,
> Ady.


No truer words were ever spoken, for those who havnt seen elsewhere on the site, i came home this evening to find a lot of dead fish, dead shrimp, and a lot of nearly dead fish    .
I had set the needle valve to what i thought was a suitable level after stupidly closing it after the c02 ran out earlier in the week, but alas i had seriously misjudged it and hence the untimely deaths of at least 50% of my livestock. Im gutted and feel exceptionally guilty about this. Im going to reinstate the bubble counter soon as i now see the benefit of the constant visual guide, even though not particularly accurate it gives a clear indication of the rate of injection (more accurate than assessing the misting from the filter inlet) and i feel if i was still using this i would have been better able to judge the needle valve position and then tweak accordingly over the next few days. I will also ensure next time the c02 runs out to leave the needle valve alone.
I feel very bad that i have directly caused suffering to the fish, but will learn a huge lesson from the mistake and this experience will go a long way in preventing the same thing ever happening again. I hope this can help prevent a similar thing happening to anyone else as its awful.
Chin up and carry on.......
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## killi69

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Disaster.*

That is really awful, I am sorry for you. I am grateful for your post and will certainly try to learn from this. I am new to using CO2 and would not have thought about leaving the valve as it was when switching to a new bottle.


----------



## Timms2011

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Disaster.*

Really sorry to hear that mate, but I can tell you obviously never done it on purpose and you would never let it happen again. I lost my Blue Rams a while back from what I believe was not having my GH/KH spot on, I felt awful, BUT it's made me more meticulous about everything i do with my aqurium. Don't be to down your doing a great job, everybody makes mistakes, and that aquatium of yours is still bloody Aeesome!!!


----------



## awtong

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Disaster.*

Sorry to hear this news it sounds like it hit you very hard.

This has re-affirmed my decision not to inject CO2.  Sometimes I think about adding CO2 to get the high growth rates of others, and to have a larger selection of plants that I could be succesful with.  The only thing that stops me is the ££££'s I have invested in plec's and other livestock.  It feels wrong to be learning from your mis-fortune but this may save a lot of livestock in the future for other forum members.

Chin up mate.

Andy


----------



## dw1305

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Disaster.*

Hi all,
Very sorry to hear this,  I'm like "awtong", I won't go down the CO2 route until accidentally gassing your fish isn't an option, as I just wouldn't be able to forgive myself.  


> this has re-affirmed my decision not to inject CO2. Sometimes I think about adding CO2 to get the high growth rates of others, and to have a larger selection of plants that I could be succesful with. The only thing that stops me is the ££££'s I have invested in plec's and other livestock. It feels wrong to be learning from your mis-fortune but this may save a lot of livestock in the future for other forum members.


cheers Darrel


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Disaster.*



			
				killi69 said:
			
		

> That is really awful, I am sorry for you. I am grateful for your post and will certainly try to learn from this. I am new to using CO2 and would not have thought about leaving the valve as it was when switching to a new bottle.


The frustrating thing is last time i refilled, id left the valve as was to prevent this happening. This time though id removed the cylinder before it actually ran out fully to try and prevent fluctuating levels of c02 and a potentially dangerous sudden c02 'dump'. When doing this i opened the needle valve fully to expel remaining c02 quickly so lost the setting.   



			
				Timms2011 said:
			
		

> Really sorry to hear that mate, but I can tell you obviously never done it on purpose and you would never let it happen again. I lost my Blue Rams a while back from what I believe was not having my GH/KH spot on, I felt awful, BUT it's made me more meticulous about everything i do with my aqurium. Don't be to down your doing a great job, everybody makes mistakes, and that aquatium of yours is still bloody Aeesome!!!


Its an awful way of bringing you back down to earth, when first starting with c02 it took me months to adjust the c02 up incase of gassing the fish and now i took it for granted a little and the dangers of using it have been clearly demonstrated. I sure will not be making the same mistake again.



			
				awtong said:
			
		

> Sorry to hear this news it sounds like it hit you very hard.
> 
> This has re-affirmed my decision not to inject CO2. Sometimes I think about adding CO2 to get the high growth rates of others, and to have a larger selection of plants that I could be succesful with. The only thing that stops me is the ££££'s I have invested in plec's and other livestock. It feels wrong to be learning from your mis-fortune but this may save a lot of livestock in the future for other forum members.
> 
> Chin up mate.
> 
> Andy





			
				dw1305 said:
			
		

> Hi all,
> Very sorry to hear this, I'm like "awtong", I won't go down the CO2 route until accidentally gassing your fish isn't an option, as I just wouldn't be able to forgive myself.
> 
> 
> 
> this has re-affirmed my decision not to inject CO2. Sometimes I think about adding CO2 to get the high growth rates of others, and to have a larger selection of plants that I could be succesful with. The only thing that stops me is the ££££'s I have invested in plec's and other livestock. It feels wrong to be learning from your mis-fortune but this may save a lot of livestock in the future for other forum members.
> 
> 
> 
> cheers Darrel
Click to expand...


Hi Andy and Darrel,
this as mentioned certainly demonstrates the potential pitfalls of using c02, one which i feel extremely guilty for. However i would say that this was human error on my part and when cautiously and correctly used c02 is safe. There are potential disasters in all aspects of fishkeeping which can lead to unfortunate scenarios. Heater failure (boiling/chilling), filter failure, electrical faults etc can all lead to a similar demise but i appreciate your decision not to add another danger to the list. When you have greater capital invested in more exotic fish, this obviously adds another element of staying safe, but for me i love planted aquariums and c02 is a means to an end. I have learned from this and will endeavour never to let it be repeated!!!
Cheers,
Ady.


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Disaster.*

I agree with Ady's last comment.  I have already expressed my condolences for the loss of livestock, but at the end of the day we are maintaining an unnatural enclosed and limited environment for our flora and fauna.  There are a whole host of things that can, and do, go wrong.  You can inadvertently overdose Easy Carbo just as easily as injected CO2 going awry.  In fact that applies to any chemical.  The filter can block, or impellor break whilst away for a weekend.  End of bacterial filtration, enter Ammonia and Nitrite spike and demise of livestock.  Heaters can fail either on or off.  Tanks can crack.  CO2 is just another one of the many things that with the best will in the world, we can get wrong.  None of them are reason enough for me *not* to keep fish or *not* to use any specific methodolgy.  Actually I think we all provide a pretty darn good living environment on the whole.  Lets face it, 99.9% of us ensure there are no predators in the tank, and thats unnatural too.  In their real environment these fish are subject to just as many dangers.  Hope that helps to keep things in perspective a little.

Ady, I know you have no intention of giving up mate.  But now's the time to cut yourself some slack I reckon.  You didn't do this deliberately and you reinstated the settings to your best estimate.  Unfortunately it was wrong, but we all know you make exceptional efforts to maintain your aquarium properly, and the images and video clips we have been seeing are testimony to that   Don't forget to restock slowly and not all en masse (Im sure you realise this).


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Disaster.*



			
				Antipofish said:
			
		

> Ady, I know you have no intention of giving up mate.  But now's the time to cut yourself some slack I reckon.  You didn't do this deliberately and you reinstated the settings to your best estimate.  Unfortunately it was wrong, but we all know you make exceptional efforts to maintain your aquarium properly, and the images and video clips we have been seeing are testimony to that   Don't forget to restock slowly and not all en masse (Im sure you realise this).


Cheers Chris, 
forwards we go with another lesson learned.
and ill restock slowly   
Cheerio,
a slightly happier having saved some of the fish from the brink,
Ady


----------



## Aquadream

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Disaster.*

Oh man that's bad when it happens. Rest assured you are not the only one to go trough such disaster. 
Just about two months ago the water in my main CRS tank have just run on the floor and in the early morning I found the CRS crawling on the substrate like cockroaches. Fortunately I was not too late and only two have died, but it was hell for me.
So I had my lesson to. Equipment have to be tight. No compromise there.

The tank is gorgeous. I am sure the rest of the fish are happy again.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Disaster.*



			
				Aquadream said:
			
		

> Oh man that's bad when it happens. Rest assured you are not the only one to go trough such disaster.
> Just about two months ago the water in my main CRS tank have just run on the floor and in the early morning I found the CRS crawling on the substrate like cockroaches. Fortunately I was not too late and only two have died, but it was hell for me.
> So I had my lesson to. Equipment have to be tight. No compromise there.
> 
> The tank is gorgeous. I am sure the rest of the fish are happy again.



Sorry to hear that, its a sinking feeling when you first come across it and your experience just shows another danger. Im pleased you managed to save most of your shrimp and its seems were all learning all the time.
thanks and cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## O'Neil

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Operation snail removal.*



			
				Ady34 said:
			
		

> easerthegeezer said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> carrot or cucumber in a jar overnight works a treat mate. Assassins dont deposit eggs like that mate, that will be pesky nerite snails that do that.
> Also airline hose or slightly larger hose used to suck them out an hour or two after lights out will make short work of them.
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers Iain,
> just googled them, and your right its nerites that deposit hard eggs. Assasins seem to prefer neutral/alkaline conditions, but ive got loads of snails now, so if i see any assassins i may get a few and see how they do for the long term control. Short term ill stick some veg in and manually remove.
> Cheerio,
> Ady.
Click to expand...


Ady I have assassins and live in newcastle, contact me if your interested.


----------



## O'Neil

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Disaster.*

Oh also on the note of how effective assassins can be, I literally had m' trumpet snails on every bit of glass, plant decor, gravel. You name it there were a million snails on it.
I decided to put 10 assassins in and for about 4 months there was little difference, however 6 months on the assassins have had tons of babies and I rarely see a trumpet......considering getting more pest snails to feed them, lol.
So my conclusion is short term cure not really useful, long term they are very effective.
Once the little ones appeared the pest snails population dwindled quickly, I think this mite down the babies appetite and due to their size going for pest snail juveniles preventing them from reaching maturity.


----------



## dw1305

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Disaster.*

Hi all,


> ......unnatural enclosed and limited environment for our flora and fauna. There are a whole host of things that can, and do, go wrong. You can inadvertently overdose Easy Carbo just as easily as injected CO2 going awry. In fact that applies to any chemical. The filter can block, or impellor break whilst away for a weekend. End of bacterial filtration, enter Ammonia and Nitrite spike and demise of livestock. Heaters can fail either on or off. Tanks can crack. CO2 is just another one of the many things that with the best will in the world, we can get wrong....


I don't agree with this, a heater and a filter are requirements for keeping most tropical fish in the UK, they aren't optional extras***, they are requirements. 

Additionally we can take measures to protect against filter and heater failure, for example by over-filtering with 2 filters, and having 2 low capacity heaters that we set at slightly different temperatures and replace every ~18 months. Whilst tanks can crack total tank failure, without any warning, is a very uncommon occurrence. Similarly with adding medication or liquid carbon products, that may damage the filter bacteria or reduce oxygenation levels, we can take steps to ensure that it doesn't cause fish death.

*CO2 is totally different*, it is an entirely optional addition and carries a known risk factor. If you search for "_CO2 related death_" on this forum, you will find plenty of cases of accidental gassing, as well as other cases where longer term problems are likely to relate to sub-lethal CO2 levels, which are damaging and cause fish death in the longer term.  

*Nobody sets out to gas their fish*, but at present there is no way that you can guarantee that you won't, however much time, care and money you expend. Even in the best case scenario, by using CO2 you are saying: 





> _I'm willing to add an optional factor that has the potential, at random, to kill all of my livestock." _


and personally this isn't a risk I'm willing to take.

***(unless we keep very low population densities of a sub-tropical Anabantoid fish like _Macropodus_ spp.)

cheers Darrel


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Disaster.*

mmm......
again as i said already this was human error, which can happen in any part of the hobby, with any equipment.
Darell, whilst i entirely appreciate your decision to not go the c02 route and commend your principle of reducing the risk factor, i do feel that when taking fish from their natural environment, or indeed keeping them full stop you are in all cases adding optional factors which can at random kill all of your livestock, that is the sad side of the hobby. Equipment, even essentials such as filters and heaters which are doubled up on, unless backed up with a generator, fail with power cuts or can be inadvertantly left switched off after maintenance which can lead to deaths. I in no way view my decision to add c02 as a willing option which may kill my livestock, im certainly now more aware of the risks, but unless through measures out of my control such as power failure etc, my livestock will not be getting gassed again as extra vigilence will be used. As for the longer term damage caused by c02 injection, i would be interested to read more about this and its effects. I in no way wish to cause harm or suffering to any livestock i keep and i cannot now change the mistake i have made, only learn a harsh lesson from it. 
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Disaster.*



			
				dw1305 said:
			
		

> Hi all,
> 
> 
> 
> ......unnatural enclosed and limited environment for our flora and fauna. There are a whole host of things that can, and do, go wrong. You can inadvertently overdose Easy Carbo just as easily as injected CO2 going awry. In fact that applies to any chemical. The filter can block, or impellor break whilst away for a weekend. End of bacterial filtration, enter Ammonia and Nitrite spike and demise of livestock. Heaters can fail either on or off. Tanks can crack. CO2 is just another one of the many things that with the best will in the world, we can get wrong....
> 
> 
> 
> I don't agree with this, a heater and a filter are requirements for keeping most tropical fish in the UK, they aren't optional extras***, they are requirements.
> 
> Erm, I didn't say they were not requirements!  I simply said that they were also things that can go wrong.  And actually, depending on what fish you buy, heaters are most definitely NOT requirements.  Plenty of homes are sufficiently insulated and centrally heated that a tank heater is not needed.
> 
> Additionally we can take measures to protect against filter and heater failure, for example by over-filtering with 2 filters, and having 2 low capacity heaters that we set at slightly different temperatures and replace every ~18 months. Whilst tanks can crack total tank failure, without any warning, is a very uncommon occurrence. Similarly with adding medication or liquid carbon products, that may damage the filter bacteria or reduce oxygenation levels, we can take steps to ensure that it doesn't cause fish death.
> Just because you have two filters or two heaters, it still does not mean it is fool proof. A fuse could blow or an RCD trip. There are still plenty of factors that can give rise to aquatic disaster.  And lets face it, you are entering into the realms that MOST people will not travel.  Very few people are interested in, or can afford to have that kind of duplicated set up.  I also did not suggest tank failure was common occurence.  Are you suggesting that CO2 gassing of fish IS common Darrel ?  Because I dont thing thats correct either. I accept it happens, but I would say that planted aquarium enthusiasts are generally strides ahead in terms of giving their fish the best care, compared to the drones of people who traipse into P@H or their LFS every week to replace the fish they killed the week before through incorrect filter maintenance, or adding them too fast, or whatever other avoidable issue that might have arisen.
> 
> 
> *CO2 is totally different*, it is an entirely optional addition and carries a known risk factor. If you search for "_CO2 related death_" on this forum, you will find plenty of cases of accidental gassing, as well as other cases where longer term problems are likely to relate to sub-lethal CO2 levels, which are damaging and cause fish death in the longer term.
> I dont doubt it happens, but I think you are over emphasising the problem.  What I was saying is that there are plenty of other factors which cause fish death. You seem to have missed (or misinterpreted) my point.
> 
> 
> *Nobody sets out to gas their fish*, but at present there is no way that you can guarantee that you won't, however much time, care and money you expend. Even in the best case scenario, by using CO2 you are saying:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _I'm willing to add an optional factor that has the potential, at random, to kill all of my livestock." _
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> and personally this isn't a risk I'm willing to take.
> Again, I think you are sensationalising the problem because of your own beliefs.  But I doubt you are prepared to take your concern for the fish to the ultimate way of preventing fish death, that being not to keep them at all. And again, I refer you to my earlier comment about the fact that rarely are our ornamental fish predated as they would be in nature.  If CO2 is not a risk you are prepared to take, fine.  I personally am pretty confident in my ability to keep my fish healthy whilst still using CO2, and dont think the risk is any greater than the other risks I mentioned.
> 
> 
> ***(unless we keep very low population densities of a sub-tropical Anabantoid fish like _Macropodus_ spp.)
> 
> cheers Darrel
Click to expand...


----------



## clonitza

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Disaster.*

I just wonder why this kind subjects have so many replies and the aquarscaping related have more or less none.
Anyway, things fail and the critters die regardless of how much we try to avoid it ...


----------



## dw1305

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Disaster.*

Hi all,


> Are you suggesting that CO2 gassing of fish IS common Darrel ?


Yes I am. These are the threads produced by the search term "gassed" since May 2011. All of them reference people either killing, or producing severe CO2 related distress, in their fish or shrimps.

<http://www.ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=21581&p=220528&hilit=gassed#p220528> 
<http://www.ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=21313&p=217789&hilit=gassed#p217789>
<http://www.ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=20853&p=215100&hilit=gassed#p215100>
<http://www.ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=20735&p=214086&hilit=gassed#p214086>
<http://www.ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=20081&p=204202&hilit=gassed#p204202>
<http://www.ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17929&p=187328&hilit=gassed#p187328>
<http://www.ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=17605&p=180985&hilit=gassed#p180985>
<http://www.ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=17439&p=179884&hilit=gassed#p179884>
<http://www.ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=17151&p=179064&hilit=gassed#p179064>
<http://www.ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=16839&p=173780&hilit=gassed#p173780>
<http://www.ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16795&p=173488&hilit=gassed#p173488>
<http://www.ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15878&p=168271&hilit=gassed#p168271>
<http://www.ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=16022&p=165899&hilit=gassed#p165899>
<http://www.ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=15654&p=162519&hilit=gassed#p162519>.



> What I was saying is that there are plenty of other factors which cause fish death. You seem to have missed (or misinterpreted) my point.


There are, but you can use a "_Risk matrix_" approach to all the things you do with the tank. Some might groan, because of its "health and safety culture" connotations, but it is very useful  tool in defining the various levels of risk. 

The risk matrix is constructed from the combination of:
*The severity of the event.* 
&
*The probability of an event occurring. *

In this case the severity of the event is "_single or multiple death_" and the likelihood of the event is "_possible_", what ever measures are taken. If you are happy with that risk you can carry on using CO2, if you aren't, then don't. Adding CO2 is entirely optional for the planted tank. 

Final point:


> Very few people are interested in, or can afford to have that kind of duplicated set up


But this is going to work out a lot cheaper long term than using CO2.

cheers Darrel


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Disaster.*



			
				clonitza said:
			
		

> I just wonder why this kind subjects have so many replies and the aquarscaping related have more or less none.
> Anyway, things fail and the critters die regardless of how much we try to avoid it ...


....probably because its a matter of life and death and people should care more for the critters they keep than the way their home looks. It is an aquascaping site, but first and foremost we need to do our best to ensure the livestock is catered for, what good is it to have a beautiful planted aquascape with unhappy fish!
Things do fail and aquarists get it wrong. When using these techniques there is a greater risk, which should clearly be managed by more due care and attention.
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## dw1305

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Disaster.*

Hi all,


> As for the longer term damage caused by c02 injection, i would be interested to read more about this and its effects.


 Most of the hobby related stuff is anecdotal, but we did have a thread with some details in it:
<http://www.ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=20578&hilit=hypercapnia&start=10>. 

If you want to have a search through Google scholar, search for "_hypercapnia_" in the articles citing "_Physiology of fish in intensive culture systems_", and that should give you about 25 papers.

One way of ameliorating the effects of high CO2 is to ensure very high levels of oxygenation and flow, this is because the gases are diffusing in and out of the fishes gills along their concentration gradients. 

Another would be by choice of live stock, where you need to keep away from rheophilic fish like _Otocinclus_ and most of the smaller loricariids. Fish, from warm water, with the ability to take atmospheric oxygen, for example _Corydoras_ catfish or _Betta_ spp., are less susceptible to higher CO2, as long as their is some gradient between levels of CO2 in their blood and the water. 

There are some more oxygenation details here, specifically for rheophilic fish, apologies for the cross-post: <http://plecoplanet.com/?page_id=829> 

cheers Darrel


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Disaster.*

Hi Darell,
fortunately most of the cited links to c02 gassing above were 'nearly' examples, with a few being equipment failure and others human error. It does however illustrate the added risk of using c02 and should act as an example as to the caution needed by the aquarist. Admittedly i see your point now of it being an extra risk, but this is the hobby we are in and simply adding filtration to increase stocking densities can be seen as a risk also. Without risks we cannot enhance the hobby, and the risk matrix is obviously a choice we are weighing up in our decisions. Hopefully this incident will help others to choose a direction. 

In reference to the link: <http://www.ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=20578&hilit=hypercapnia&start=10>,
i remember being part of that thread now   .
Thanks for the information, ill look on google when i have more time available, but from what you have said....


			
				dw1305 said:
			
		

> One way of ameliorating the effects of high CO2 is to ensure very high levels of oxygenation and flow, this is because the gases are diffusing in and out of the fishes gills along their concentration gradients.


.....and recent readings from Tom Barr using greater surface agitation and subsequent oxgen increases to raise c02 levels higher without ill effects to the fish, this seems to suggest that it isnt necessarily the level of c02 concentration, but the level of oxygen content that plays a significant role also. I use an airstone and pump to oxygenate my tank water overnight from lights off until 7.30am, the c02 then comes on at 11.30, and lights on at 3.00pm. The pump is used primarily to offer a break to the fish and ensure oxygen levels are sufficient for both plants and fish overnight. Obviously as you yourself had said within the thread: <http://www.ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=20578&hilit=hypercapnia&start=10>,
the benefits of c02 injected tanks of higher photosynthesis rates/increased oxygenation and filtering benefits help to keep things stable (incidentally this is one of the reasons why i find it acceptable to run c02 injection as it limits the risk matrix to a degree), especially in reference to oxygen availablity during the day, but would it therefore be beneficial to run an airstone overnight until about 1hr into the photoperiod when plants begin oxygenating the water naturally? This way there should always be a high concentration of 02 available, counteracting the higher levels of c02? 
The thing that confused me was this passage:  
"Nephrocalcinosis occurs when natural CO2 levels in the water are high and/or when additional oxygenation is used to increase carrying capacity, and the total amount of metabolic CO2 excreted is increased as a result (Harrison 1979b)." 
Obviously this is related to neophrocalcinosis, not hypercapnia, but in solving one fish health risk are we then not creating another? or is this more only an issue in hard water?
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Disaster.*

Well you know what ?  Im not bothered.  I do my best in my tank to keep them alive.  And they stand a better chance of surviving in my tank WITH CO2 than they probably would against predation in the wild.  They stand a better chance WITH CO2 in my tank than most of the hobbyists I cited earlier too.  Risk Matrix ?  Jees are we taking things a bit to far ?  Its a fish tank !  I care about the fish, but there is only so far you can take this hobby.  Turn it into something it seems you want to Darrell, and ask yourself how many people would actually bother with fishkeeping at all.  Its the same as all the other "politically correct" cr4p that goes on today... people take it to such an extreme that the fun of doing it in the first place is completely lost.  Make this hobby so inaccessible and difficult for people and there will be no hobby at all.

And incidentally, crossing the road is "risky" but I dont need a Risk Matrix to cross to the other side


----------



## dw1305

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Disaster.*

Hi all,


> Well you know what ? Im not bothered......Risk Matrix ? Jees are we taking things a bit to far ? Its a fish tank ! I care about the fish, but there is only so far you can take this hobby. Turn it into something it seems you want to Darrell, and ask yourself how many people would actually bother with fishkeeping at all. Its the same as all the other "politically correct" cr4p that goes on today


You are entitled to your view. I can't justify keeping any pet on ethical grounds, or driving a car, eating meat, using a computer, buying vegetables flown in from Africa or intensively farmed chicken, or heating my house. I do all of these, and I used to shoot and go fishing as well. In fact I would be happy to admit that I have probably deliberately killed more creatures than the vast majority of the members of this forum, but now I'm setting out to kill as few as possible without a very good reason.

cheers Darrel


----------



## dw1305

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Disaster.*

Hi all,


> and recent readings from Tom Barr using greater surface agitation and subsequent oxgen increases to raise c02 levels higher without ill effects to the fish, this seems to suggest that it isnt necessarily the level of c02 concentration, but the level of oxygen content that plays a significant role also.


 I think the answer to this is to do with the Root (Bohr) effect, oxygen–haemoglobin dissociation curve and the affinity of haemoglobin for both O2 and CO2. I don't fully understand this, but I think that higher oxygen levels mean that an oxygen molecule is more likely to displace a CO2 molecule on a haemoglobin molecule (at the gas exchange surface in the gills). 


> "Nephrocalcinosis occurs when natural CO2 levels in the water are high and/or when additional oxygenation is used to increase carrying capacity, and the total amount of metabolic CO2 excreted is increased as a result (Harrison 1979b)." Obviously this is related to neophrocalcinosis, not hypercapnia, but in solving one fish health risk are we then not creating another? or is this more only an issue in hard water?


I also don't know the answer to the nephrocalcinosis question, but this would suggest the answer is probably that it is a potential problem, even in soft water, for salmonids, but I'm not sure about other fish. <http://www.thefishsite.com/articles/103/the-importance-of-measuring-carbon-dioxide-in-aquaculture>
"_The relationship between nephrocalcinosis and high CO2 is still not completely understood, but is likely to involve the excretion of minerals, particularly phosphorus and calcium, when compensating for blood acidosis._ "


> the benefits of c02 injected tanks of higher photosynthesis rates/increased oxygenation and filtering benefits help to keep things stable (incidentally this is one of the reasons why i find it acceptable to run c02 injection as it limits the risk matrix to a degree), especially in reference to oxygen availablity during the day, but would it therefore be beneficial to run an airstone overnight until about 1hr into the photoperiod when plants begin oxygenating the water naturally? This way there should always be a high concentration of 02 available, counteracting the higher levels of c02?


I'd definitely run the air stone until lights on, I know people like to build up CO2 levels before photosynthesis starts, but that is the time when asphyxiation is most likely to occur. Because it is really difficult to measure dissolved CO2 and O2 levels, you have to use indicators like fish breathing rates and pH/dKH (easiest with a drop checker) to give you a proxy for dissolved gas levels. I've never used CO2, so other with practical experience may be able to tell you if the fish show any distress signs in the period when CO2 is building up before lights on.

I only keep planted tanks, in water quality terms plants are a win, win situation. You don't need CO2 for this, in any tank with active photosynthesis, and water with a low BOD, all planted tanks should achieve DO levels near to saturation. In tanks with pearling the water will be super-saturated with oxygen and DO levels will be above 100%. I've dipped the DO meter into the tank at work every now and then and it is always close to 100% saturation, but I very rarely get pearling (usually only when the sun is on the tank).

cheers Darrel


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Disaster.*

Hi,


			
				dw1305 said:
			
		

> Hi all,
> 
> 
> 
> and recent readings from Tom Barr using greater surface agitation and subsequent oxgen increases to raise c02 levels higher without ill effects to the fish, this seems to suggest that it isnt necessarily the level of c02 concentration, but the level of oxygen content that plays a significant role also.
> 
> 
> 
> I think the answer to this is to do with the Root (Bohr) effect, oxygen–haemoglobin dissociation curve and the affinity of haemoglobin for both O2 and CO2. I don't fully understand this, but I think that higher oxygen levels mean that an oxygen molecule is more likely to displace a CO2 molecule on a haemoglobin molecule (at the gas exchange surface in the gills).
> 
> 
> 
> "Nephrocalcinosis occurs when natural CO2 levels in the water are high and/or when additional oxygenation is used to increase carrying capacity, and the total amount of metabolic CO2 excreted is increased as a result (Harrison 1979b)." Obviously this is related to neophrocalcinosis, not hypercapnia, but in solving one fish health risk are we then not creating another? or is this more only an issue in hard water?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I also don't know the answer to the nephrocalcinosis question, but this would suggest the answer is probably that it is a potential problem, even in soft water, for salmonids, but I'm not sure about other fish. <http://www.thefishsite.com/articles/103/the-importance-of-measuring-carbon-dioxide-in-aquaculture>
> "_The relationship between nephrocalcinosis and high CO2 is still not completely understood, but is likely to involve the excretion of minerals, particularly phosphorus and calcium, when compensating for blood acidosis._ "
> 
> 
> 
> the benefits of c02 injected tanks of higher photosynthesis rates/increased oxygenation and filtering benefits help to keep things stable (incidentally this is one of the reasons why i find it acceptable to run c02 injection as it limits the risk matrix to a degree), especially in reference to oxygen availablity during the day, but would it therefore be beneficial to run an airstone overnight until about 1hr into the photoperiod when plants begin oxygenating the water naturally? This way there should always be a high concentration of 02 available, counteracting the higher levels of c02?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'd definitely run the air stone until lights on, I know people like to build up CO2 levels before photosynthesis starts, but that is the time when asphyxiation is most likely to occur. Because it is really difficult to measure dissolved CO2 and O2 levels, you have to use indicators like fish breathing rates and pH/dKH (easiest with a drop checker) to give you a proxy for dissolved gas levels. I've never used CO2, so other with practical experience may be able to tell you if the fish show any distress signs in the period when CO2 is building up before lights on.
> 
> I only keep planted tanks, in water quality terms plants are a win, win situation. You don't need CO2 for this, in any tank with active photosynthesis, and water with a low BOD, all planted tanks should achieve DO levels near to saturation. In tanks with pearling the water will be super-saturated with oxygen and DO levels will be above 100%. I've dipped the DO meter into the tank at work every now and then and it is always close to 100% saturation, but I very rarely get pearling (usually only when the sun is on the tank).
> 
> cheers Darrel
Click to expand...

It seems a contentious issue really, from reading that link the closing paragraph states:
"Remember that high levels of oxygen may not help either as the fish respiratory rate is governed by levels of oxygen, high O2 can slow the rate of elimination of CO2 from the blood, thus increasing the hypercapnia. By increasing levels of oxygen, you may just make things worse. 

Source: Fish Vet Group - July 2005"
 :? 
Think ill stick to oxgenating overnight and let it switch off at 7.30am well before the c02 begins. This was working well before and i now have found a good c02 balance again with happy fish. I switch the c02 on 3.5 hrs pre lights on to get a slow increase in the level and a good level at lights on so photosynthesis can begin quickly to oxygenate the water naturally at peak c02 levels. The c02 also goes off 3hrs pre lights off so i only have 5 of the 8 hour photoperiod with peak c02 when the plants are using it most. I think this is a good balance for flora and fauna and limits exposure from the fish point of view   .
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Plants.*

Moving on from the previous topic an update of the plants.
This is in no way scientific and could be due to other factors such as 2 weeks ago halving the weekly mineral salt addition and effectively softening the water, but 3 weeks ago i decided to stop dosing extra potassium (easy life) in a bid to save money feeling that my macro fertiliser may provide sufficient. Maybe its coincidence, or maybe theres something in it but since then my hygrophila pinnatifida has declined in health with much reduced growth and many of the lower leaves yellowing and showing signs of red/brown spots (the reason i started dosing extra K in the first place). The ludwigia arcuata which had began better growth also seemed to loose its edge, with the leaves seemingly 'drooping'. Im positive that the pinnatifida is a response to the reduced K, however unsure of the arcuata (sounds more c02 related). What i will say is that since reinstating the extra K dosing (2.5ml/day) 3 days ago the arcuata has visibly improved and the tips are now turning a pink/red colour. Admittedly these are the uppermost closest to the light, but the overall plant health seems improved. I will monitor the hygrophila pinnatifida and note any improvement here also. This is the first time really that the arcuata has turned a noticable pink so im quite pleased with that..... typically its due a trim, as is the rest of the tank, so will be lopping those ends off next water change.
Arcuata:







Tank in need of a serious haircut, and looking a little shy on fish stock:






Will next water change be removing the staurogyne which is showing no signs of improvement and cleaning up the foreground sand bed a little. Major general prune and thinning of larger crypt leaves. 
Also at the moment i seem to be suffering an increase in bga along the substrate line, maybe due to slightly sunnier weather and natural light on the tank. Ive had it for a while in the centre of the tank at substrate level, mostly below substrate but a little above. Now it has increased and spread further along the substrate line.  :?: 
The tank is becoming rather overgrown and more difficult to manage, but i have decided with other personal commitments that this will run until at least august before a rescape.
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## faizal

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Plants.*

It's looking very nice in there.   Fish heaven is what it is.


----------



## LondonDragon

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Plants.*

Tank is looking great Ady, sorry to hear about the CO2 incident, you not the first and won't be the last, for those of us that like to run it in higher settings any changes on conditions can tip the balance, last time it happened to me was due to a big prune and replanting of the tank, a oily film developed at the top of the tank and that prevent CO2 escaping as quick as it did before and because I was on the edge it affected some of the fish.

Keep up the good work, plants are looking awesome


----------



## clonitza

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Plants.*

The tank looks great, staurogyne needs a bit of light to develop, might need to trim the plants that shade it.
Keep up the good work!


----------



## O'Neil

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Plants.*

That tank is awesome!!!!!


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Plants.*

Hi,


			
				faizal said:
			
		

> It's looking very nice in there.   Fish heaven is what it is.


... no pun intended    



			
				LondonDragon said:
			
		

> Tank is looking great Ady, sorry to hear about the CO2 incident, you not the first and won't be the last, for those of us that like to run it in higher settings any changes on conditions can tip the balance, last time it happened to me was due to a big prune and replanting of the tank, a oily film developed at the top of the tank and that prevent CO2 escaping as quick as it did before and because I was on the edge it affected some of the fish.
> 
> Keep up the good work, plants are looking awesome


Cheers Paulo, 
and your right, you need to be so switched on with c02 and constantly adjust to any changes, like you say a major prune effects plant consumption and therefore you need to lower injection rate accordingly.



			
				clonitza said:
			
		

> The tank looks great, staurogyne needs a bit of light to develop, might need to trim the plants that shade it.
> Keep up the good work!


Yeah, i think it may have been Spyder who offered the same advice..... in all honesty it did do better initially when there was much less plant mass and when situated in the soil rather than sand. Im just gonna remove it now, i like the monosolenium tenerum thats taking over that foreground spot and that will grow in low light so win win.



			
				Porksword said:
			
		

> That tank is awesome!!!!!


Thanks mate, and ill let you know in the future if i need any assasins, im gonna run this tank until at least mid august now, but ill try manual removal to limit numbers first as although i suspect the ramshorns nibble, its only a couple of plant species and if im to be honest i kinda like them   

Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Plants.*

Guys, all these comments about different variables potentially "tipping the balance"... pruning, surface scum etc... has got me thinking.  Surely there is some kind of equipment we can use to maintain CO2 levels at a fixed amount ?  Can pH controllers not come into play here ?  Or something similar ?  We must be able to measure the CO2 saturation level that works for us and then use something electronic to maintain that.  Surely  ?  Or is this a niche in the market yet to be filled ?  Cheers.

Ady: hope you dont mind me raising this here.  Id be happy for a mod to create a new thread if you prefer....


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Plants.*



			
				Antipofish said:
			
		

> Guys, all these comments about different variables potentially "tipping the balance"... pruning, surface scum etc... has got me thinking. Surely there is some kind of equipment we can use to maintain CO2 levels at a fixed amount ? Can pH controllers not come into play here ? Or something similar ? We must be able to measure the CO2 saturation level that works for us and then use something electronic to maintain that. Surely ? Or is this a niche in the market yet to be filled ? Cheers.
> 
> Ady: hope you dont mind me raising this here. Id be happy for a mod to create a new thread if you prefer....



I dont mind Chris, its what its all about. There have been some interesting points raised here recently which could have formed sub forum threads, but to me its good they are being talked about.
I think ph controllers have been used and are by some but they too can be innaccurate as other factors can effect the ph levels thus rendering ph to dictate actual c02 levels and injection rates useless. 
Most people probably dont adjust their c02 when carrying out pruning etc, but really if its large trim you are in effect increasing the c02 as less is being used by the plants, and if its already high/on the limit of tolerance then you can tip the balance negatively for the livestock. The key for most is to reach a setting (with lighting and c02 injection rate/ distribution etc) whereby you have a little leniency so you dont have to adjust constantly.
I dont think there will be anything that can precisely maintain c02 as there are too many variables, but the best way is probably going to be understanding the process, common sense and watching the tank.... as we are already doing.
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## faizal

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Plants.*



			
				Ady34 said:
			
		

> Hi,
> 
> 
> 
> faizal said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's looking very nice in there.   Fish heaven is what it is.
> 
> 
> 
> ... no pun intended
Click to expand...


Oh, cr*p !! I'm sorry !!! I just got that !!    I didn't mean it that way.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... Plants.*



			
				faizal said:
			
		

> Ady34 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> 
> 
> faizal said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's looking very nice in there.   Fish heaven is what it is.
> 
> 
> 
> ... no pun intended
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Oh, cr*p !! I'm sorry !!! I just got that !!    I didn't mean it that way.
Click to expand...

I know you didnt mate dont worry i was just havin a laugh, it was too good an opportunity not to say something   .


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... 'Dragons Crypt'*

Dragons Crypt......
heres the info from my IAPLC 2012 entry....
[LAYOUT TITLE]
'Dragons Crypt'

[AQUARIUM SIZE]
W: 90 x D: 45 x H: 45 (cm)

[WATER PLANTS]
Eleocharis parvula, Eleocharis Acicularis, Hygrophila pinnatifida, Hygrophila corymbosa 'Siamensis', Hygrophila polysperma 'Rosanervig', Microsorum pteropus 'narrow', Microsorum pteropus 'petit', Bolbitis heudelotii, Taxiphyllum barbieri, Cryptocoryne: balansae, parva, beckettii 'petchii', undulata 'broad leaves', wendtii 'brown', wendtii 'Mi Oya', wendtii 'tropica', Staurogyne repens, Hydrocotle sp. Japan, Ludwigia arcuata, Monosolenium tenerum, Blyxa japonica, Anubias nana 'petite', Silvania natans.

[FISH]
Trigonostigma heteromorpha, Petitella georgiae, Paracheirodon axelrodi, Otocinclus vestitus.

[SUBSTRATE]
ADA Amazonia, ADA Powersand special M, ADA Penac P, Unipac Zambezi sand.

[FILTER]
Fluval G6

[LIGHT]
2x 39w HO T5 Hagen Life Glo 8hrs/day

[CO2]
2kg pressurised via Boyu inline diffuser

[COMMENTS]



*** NOTE ***
This E-mail was sent to IAPLC applicant. If this E-mail means anything to you, please contact to following address.

------------
 AQUA DESIGN AMANO CO.,LTD.
 E-mail:support@iaplc.com
 Tel: +81 256-72-6666 / Fax: +81 256-73-3579
------------
 8554-1 Urushiyama Nishikan-ku
 Niigata 953-0054 JAPAN------------

..... cool!
Just entered to keep the numbers up but feels quite exciting. Its a good way of culminating all the current info on the tank too.
Dragons Crypt.... never thought about a name before but you have to give one, so thought about the 'dragon' stone you can no longer see because its 'buried' under the mass of mainly 'cryptocoryne' plant species in the tank.   
Just thought id share my childish excitement   
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## tim

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... IAPLC 2012 'Dragons Crypt'.*

pretty cool ady awesome tank !


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... IAPLC 2012 'Dragons Crypt'.*



			
				tim said:
			
		

> pretty cool ady awesome tank !


cheers Tim   .

Well, major prune and thinning of plant mass on monday evening has resulted in much better flow and distribution and once again the mist is rolling around the full tank im sure to the delight of my plants. It was getting late on monday night so left the hairgrass trimming and sand bed clearing for another day. Ill do this and then carry out another water change this week as it was quite a severe hack and want to make sure i keep the water in check as i uprooted some balansae and disturbed the substrate. Some balansae was so heavily rooted it simply snapped when i tried to remove it, with the root system so wide it was moving the substrate for several inches around the plant base. The eleocharis parvula in the foreground has gone very pale and patchy which i presume is because of overshadowing and possibly reduced c02 due to poor distribution, will be interesting to see if it improves again. Also the bga seems to be spreading onto the hairgrass so ill have to watch this too.... is it a case of manual removal and water changes to rid this stuff?
Its amazing how the colours within the tank have changed as more light is penetrating... it almost looks too bright now, a little cold and too green compared with the overgrown plant mass that gave areas of shadow and contrast and a sense of cosyness.
Once ive completed the trimming and tidying ill post an image.
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## faizal

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... IAPLC 2012 'Dragons Crypt'.*



			
				Ady34 said:
			
		

> ..... it almost looks too bright now, a little cold and too green compared with the overgrown plant mass that gave areas of shadow and contrast and a sense of cosyness.



I know what you mean.    Don't worry mate,...it'll be back to its usual coziness in no time.   Looking forward to a  picture.


----------



## Ian Holdich

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... IAPLC 2012 'Dragons Crypt'.*

i'm sure you'll do well Ady!


----------



## Timms2011

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... IAPLC 2012 'Dragons Crypt'.*

Any chance of a pic after the trim? Would be great to follow the progression from there


----------



## Mark Evans

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... IAPLC 2012 'Dragons Crypt'.*

Good luck Ad with IAPLC

Your Arcuata looks really nice. As it should look. Well done mate.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900... 'Dragons Crypt' Trim time.*



			
				faizal said:
			
		

> Ady34 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..... it almost looks too bright now, a little cold and too green compared with the overgrown plant mass that gave areas of shadow and contrast and a sense of cosyness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know what you mean.    Don't worry mate,...it'll be back to its usual coziness in no time.   Looking forward to a  picture.
Click to expand...

  



			
				ianho said:
			
		

> i'm sure you'll do well Ady!


Cheers, it was a jungle but its a tank with plants and itll hopefully up the uk numbers.



			
				Timms2011 said:
			
		

> Any chance of a pic after the trim? Would be great to follow the progression from there


On it.



			
				Mark Evans said:
			
		

> Good luck Ad with IAPLC
> 
> Your Arcuata looks really nice. As it should look. Well done mate.


Thanks Mark.


Right, heres the progress of chopping it back, it may not look like a lot but beleive me the right rear was rammed with a tangle of hygrophilas, bolbitis, eleocharis ecicularis and ludwigia so i ripped it all out to improve circulation.
Some of the larger balansae has been removed, the crypts thinned, the arcuata trimmed, eleocharis trimmed, hygrophila corymbosa and pinnatifida given a serious chop and thinning and a general tidy up. Theres still a lot of balansae that probably needs the largest leaves removing, and the microsorum pteropus petite could do with a thinning, but ill probably wait to do that when/if the pinnatifida recovers.
Ive given the sand bed a mini recovery and removed the staurogyne 'stumps'. The parvula right foreground was decidedly yellow and browning probably due to c02 and light starvation from the plant mass, so this has been trimmed and thinned and will hopefully recover.
It looks much brighter and as previously said the circulation/distribution is much improved. It looks a little green in colour after the trim but im hoping the arcuata and the pinnatifida will come back to add some contrasting shades.
Anyway i had to do it in 2 stages so heres the before, during and after:

Before, a jungle and similar to the iaplc shot:





During, hygrophilas and crypts trimmed/thinned:





After, eleocharis trimmed and tidied, further crypt thinning and sand bed tidy. Its a little murky as id just finished the tidying and refilling. I dont particularly like the sandy area but ill try to make the best of it while its there:





Just need to see how things grow back in now. Hopefully some of the plants that started to deteriorate will pick up again, a few more months for this tank to go yet!
Thanks for looking,
Ady.


----------



## Timms2011

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Trim time.*

Still looks awesome, i can see you must have taken allot of time and care to cut n thin your plants out, they still looks so natural. I do think the sandy area in your tank is a good addition, something I've never tried as I know I'll just make a complete mess of it. I can honestly say following your progress has really inspired me. If my next aquatium turns out to be a fraction of what yours is I would be over the moon!! Please Keep us posted on your progress!!


----------



## Piece-of-fish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Trim time.*

Well done and congrats on IAPLC...


----------



## Ian Holdich

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Trim time.*

all of those pics are worthy of the IAPLC. The Balansae looks great!


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Trim time.*

Hi, 



			
				Timms2011 said:
			
		

> Still looks awesome, i can see you must have taken allot of time and care to cut n thin your plants out, they still looks so natural. I do think the sandy area in your tank is a good addition, something I've never tried as I know I'll just make a complete mess of it. I can honestly say following your progress has really inspired me. If my next aquatium turns out to be a fraction of what yours is I would be over the moon!! Please Keep us posted on your progress!!


Thanks Timms, the sand was already there   , id been lazy in maintaining it and it was covered in aquasoil   
Pleased the journal has inspired you, thats nice to hear and your definitely in the right place to find out everything you need to grow your own   



			
				Piece-of-fish said:
			
		

> Well done and congrats on IAPLC...


Cheers bud, its the first 'international' anything ive been a part of and sounds special   



			
				ianho said:
			
		

> all of those pics are worthy of the IAPLC. The Balansae looks great!


Thanks Ian, balansae is all or nothing apparently, it took months to get going and now its everywhere!!

Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## O'Neil

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Trim time.*

 I quite like the idea of having the sand there adds a bit more character


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Trim time.*

Your tank always looks so damned healthy Ady.  Even without a couple of balansae plants and a big trim   Cant wait to see your IAPLC ranking.  Its well worthy of your entry.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Trim time.*



			
				Antipofish said:
			
		

> Your tank always looks so damned healthy Ady.  Even without a couple of balansae plants and a big trim   Cant wait to see your IAPLC ranking.  Its well worthy of your entry.


Thanks Chris, there are some plants that arnt too healthy and a bit of GSA (think ive previously described it as BGA   ) at the front centre too   
Kind of wish id thought about entering a bit sooner so i could have trimmed, tidied and let the plants grow back in a little first. IAPLC kinda sounded a bit posh, but when you go on the website it says for anyone with an interest in the planted tank so i stuck it in. Not expecting a high ranking or anything, im a realist but it will be interesting to see how it does. Id like to know if you get feedback and if all the entries are printed in the IAPLC publication?
Cheers,
Ady.


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Trim time.*



			
				Ady34 said:
			
		

> .... IAPLC kinda sounded a bit posh, but when you go on the website it says for anyone with an interest in the planted tank so i stuck it in. Not expecting a high ranking or anything, im a realist but it will be interesting to see how it does.



I think you will be pleasantly surprised.  Im not saying you will be top ten, but I dont think you would be in rear end of things either   Least, I dont think you SHOULD be


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Trim time.*



			
				Antipofish said:
			
		

> I think you will be pleasantly surprised.  Im not saying you will be top ten, but I dont think you would be in rear end of things either   Least, I dont think you SHOULD be


Thanks Chris, i wont say flattery will get you everywhere, but i knew there was a reason i like you!


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Trim time.*



			
				Ady34 said:
			
		

> Antipofish said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think you will be pleasantly surprised.  Im not saying you will be top ten, but I dont think you would be in rear end of things either   Least, I dont think you SHOULD be
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Chris, i wont say flattery will get you everywhere, but i knew there was a reason i like you!
Click to expand...


Hehe.  I know what I like and what I don't and I don't take prisoners so tend to speak it like it is (to me at least,   ).  If its good I will say so, if its cr4p I (sometimes) am a bit more diplomatic about saying so   

Im gutted that my Balansae was too large   Its still on my favourites list.  How long did it take to get to that size?

Now I have reasonable CO2 and EI ferts I am beginning to see some decent growth, *FINALLY*


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Trim time.*



			
				Antipofish said:
			
		

> Im gutted that my Balansae was too large   Its still on my favourites list.  How long did it take to get to that size?
> 
> Now I have reasonable CO2 and EI ferts I am beginning to see some decent growth, *FINALLY*



In all honesty now its taken a hold its phenomenally fast. The last three pre trim, during and post trim pictures show in the centre, 1st pre trim photo, no balansae, 6 days later in the centre photo there is a balansae plantlet which is 12" tall    (That surprised me when ive just looked at the dates!) You can see i ripped this one out in the last trim session, centre midground is no place for that sucker! I didnt even realise the ones i sent you were so long until i took them out, they reach from one end of the tank to the other but thats what i like about them, im finding im trimming the largest leaves quite regularly now as those at the left tend to get pushed down the front glass with the flow there and it looks a bit scruffy.
No worries about passing it on, im sure killi's tank is well big enough!
As for your tank im pleased your starting to get the growth you want, i think its probably more to do with c02 as the tpn+ was doing the trick for me, just had to dose tons of it which seemed a good way of burning money when you compare it to ei. Hows the arcuata fairing?
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Trim time.*

Arcuata doing well mate, Its looking really good.  I am not sure my growth was CO2 related as the change occurred a good month after I got CO2 balanced and its only recently got faster in the light of EI ferts.  Im not saying TPN+ would not work, but I may have been underdosing with 7ml per day.  But hey, thats what I was recommended.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Trim time.*



			
				Antipofish said:
			
		

> Arcuata doing well mate, Its looking really good.  I am not sure my growth was CO2 related as the change occurred a good month after I got CO2 balanced and its only recently got faster in the light of EI ferts.  Im not saying TPN+ would not work, but I may have been underdosing with 7ml per day.  But hey, thats what I was recommended.


Pleased the arcuata is doing well.
Yeah sounds like ferts, what volume is your tank? I was chucking in 15ml/day TPN+ on my 180l!!!


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Trim time.*



			
				Ady34 said:
			
		

> Antipofish said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Arcuata doing well mate, Its looking really good.  I am not sure my growth was CO2 related as the change occurred a good month after I got CO2 balanced and its only recently got faster in the light of EI ferts.  Im not saying TPN+ would not work, but I may have been underdosing with 7ml per day.  But hey, thats what I was recommended.
> 
> 
> 
> Pleased the arcuata is doing well.
> Yeah sounds like ferts, what volume is your tank? I was chucking in 15ml/day TPN+ on my 180l!!!
Click to expand...


Mines 175L give or take.  7ml was at the low end of the scale and 40ml was suggested by someone.  ultimately that amount of TPN+ would have been expensive so hence the EI route for me now, (with Alastairs great help, thanks mate  )


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', New Fish.*

Got some more fish today. Going eclectic and got 5 rosy tetra and 5 emperor tetra along with an as yet unknown (to me) form of flying fox. Thinking ill try a few different species to give me some ideas for the next scape, emperors are lovely, although the guy in the shop managed to pick me out one with some facial deformity bless its cotton socks, that one aint the prettiest. Rosie are nice too, but first day theyre being a little shy still. Fancying some black neons too, but may just be mixing things up too much there, well see.
Left the c02 off this morning until id released the new stock just to be safe   .
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## awtong

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Trim time.*

Hi Ady I would keep a close eye on the Emporer Tetra.  When I kept these fish they suffered from some type of worm that formed in a blister like growth.  I have since seen them in a few LFS around my area with the same problem.

Yours might be absolutely fine but thought I would pass on the info.

Andy


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Trim time.*



			
				awtong said:
			
		

> Hi Ady I would keep a close eye on the Emporer Tetra.  When I kept these fish they suffered from some type of worm that formed in a blister like growth.  I have since seen them in a few LFS around my area with the same problem.
> 
> Yours might be absolutely fine but thought I would pass on the info.
> 
> Andy


Cheers for the heads up Andy, ill keep an eye on that. Did you successfully treat it or was it terminal? It would be a shame as theyre lovely fish.
Ady.


----------



## awtong

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Trim time.*

I got advice from the LFS and treated with limited success.  This was in my old 180l Juwel and not the 450l.  A couple of them healed up fine but I had 2 males that just continually got them.  I caught them and put them into quarantine but they both died after a while of trying to treat them.  They are gorgeous fish and they used to show a lot of spawning behaviour in my tank.  I have 1 female left from the batch now.  Although pretty and facinating the experience has kind of put me off keeping them, especially as the supplies in the local LFS seem to have the same issue.

Good luck with them don't let my negativity put you off the gorgeous fish but I thought it worth mentioning.

Andy


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', nearly a week on!.*

Hi,
with a big trim and new inhabitants i thought id post a week on update. Technically not quite a week on, but im away for the weekend so pop it up now.
All seems well, plants are improving and water clarity is great again. I feel circulation must have been hugely compromised with the plant mass and overall health seems much better after the clearout. Hygrophilas showing new and healthier shoots and the ludwigia arcuata has sprouted several new shoots from the cut stems so that should also recover well. Eleocharis parvula showing new growth too.
I am suffering an outbreak of planaria at the moment, horrible little creatures so ill need to get that sorted when im back.
The new fish have settled well now and i enjoy the sparring and dancing that takes place between the rosy tetras. They are beautiful fish but do still seem quite shy tending to like spending time in amongst the plants, but they are getting more brave. The emperor tetras are stunning fish and my photos dont do them justice, but managed to get one nearly in focus in the last pic. Im a little concered as Andy (Awtong) said about worms of some kind as i spotted something on a couple of them but these seem to have gone and they are colouring up much nicer now....ill have to keep an eye on that though!
Few pics:






















Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Trim time.*

Ady :  I WANT THOSE CRYPTS !!! They look so healthy   Pain about the planaria.  I dont know much about them but I note someone else is asking about how soon the treatment should kill them at the moment on here.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Trim time.*



			
				Antipofish said:
			
		

> Ady :  I WANT THOSE CRYPTS !!! They look so healthy   Pain about the planaria.  I dont know much about them but I note someone else is asking about how soon the treatment should kill them at the moment on here.


Crypts are doing well, still suffer minor melt from time to time, but hey, im having to thin them out so theyre growing more than melting   
Planaria are horrible little grey worms, dont know where theyve come from. I know its a sign of overfeeding, i dont think im doing that but maybe some small bits get trapped within the hairgrass etc. Anyway ill get some shrimp safe treatment and give it a whirl... if that doesnt work theres been some good advice on another thread about putting a prawn in a bag for a few hours when lights go out, then fishing the bag and prawn out complete with lots of greedy planaria!
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', nearly a week on!*

Took another little camera video of the tank buzzing with activity again after the new fish additions so here it is. I love watching the rosy's flaring at one another in particular   



Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## LondonDragon

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', nearly a week on!*

Tank looks great Ady, congrats  love the video


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', nearly a week on!*

Great vid Ady, thats quite some movement you have in the tank


----------



## Westyggx

*Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', nearly a week on!*

Looks good Ady!


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', nearly a week on!*

Hi,


			
				LondonDragon said:
			
		

> Tank looks great Ady, congrats  love the video





			
				Antipofish said:
			
		

> Great vid Ady, thats quite some movement you have in the tank





			
				Westyggx said:
			
		

> Looks good Ady!



thanks chaps,
tried a little harder with this vid. Used a borrowed tripod whilst filming and added some slightly repetative 'you tube' background music    Still not the smoothest transitions when moving and zooming in and out, but probably a little better than before. Still takes well over an hour to upload onto you tube which is very frustrating   

Water change night tonight, looking harder at the tank there has been a dramatic decrease in the snail population and ive found several empty shells (not an entirely bad thing). Maybe this is down to reducing the mineral salts ie softer water not good for snails? or could it be a result of the planaria, do they eat snails? Also a little more crypt melt... possibly again due to reduced mineral salts?... maybe need to up them slightly again. Hygrophila pinatiffida still not great, older leaves yellowing with spots and falling off. On the plus side the mosses are showing good healthy growth again, must remember to 'waft' it at water changes to remove detrius build up, i forgot tonight. The gsa has reduced to almost nothing above the substrate line, probably due to better circulation after thinning the eleocharis parvula....still there below the substrate line though but if it stays there its not so bad. Seems everything is swings and roundabouts for me   Im quite pleased with how the tank looks at the moment but i still cant achieve the 'really' lush growth seen in some of the scapes on here....keep plodding on   
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', nearly a week on!*



			
				Ady34 said:
			
		

> .... but i still cant achieve the 'really' lush growth seen in some of the scapes on here....keep plodding on
> Cheerio,
> Ady.



Your growth is pretty lush in my book.  It may not be in the top 2 but there are few that are better than yours Ady.  Like I said, all tanks have glitches.  Mine went through a *HORRENDOUS* stage of all plants being filthy dirty and nothing growing.  I seem to have got the light/CO2/ferts balanced about right at the moment as I am really pleased with how things are going.  I took some pics last night but with only 1 24w T5 (the second one is now hardly worth having on.  Its a pinkish spectrum anyway but has deteriorated to the point of having little use so I am about to replace it and blow the balance of the tank out of kilter at the same time probably but its got to be done) I just could not get a fast enough shutter speed.  I wanted to retain a fairly open aperture to get most of the plants crisp but even at 1600 ISO I could not get much faster shutter than 1/30th     I was being lazy and could have got the tripod out but it was too much faffing around so I will wait till I get the new bulb.  

Keep plugging away at it though.. You must be doing something right to grow balansae thats about ten metres long ! LOL


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', nearly a week on!*



			
				Antipofish said:
			
		

> Ady34 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... but i still cant achieve the 'really' lush growth seen in some of the scapes on here....keep plodding on
> Cheerio,
> Ady.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your growth is pretty lush in my book.  It may not be in the top 2 but there are few that are better than yours Ady.  Like I said, all tanks have glitches.  Mine went through a *HORRENDOUS* stage of all plants being filthy dirty and nothing growing.  I seem to have got the light/CO2/ferts balanced about right at the moment as I am really pleased with how things are going.  I took some pics last night but with only 1 24w T5 (the second one is now hardly worth having on.  Its a pinkish spectrum anyway but has deteriorated to the point of having little use so I am about to replace it and blow the balance of the tank out of kilter at the same time probably but its got to be done) I just could not get a fast enough shutter speed.  I wanted to retain a fairly open aperture to get most of the plants crisp but even at 1600 ISO I could not get much faster shutter than 1/30th     I was being lazy and could have got the tripod out but it was too much faffing around so I will wait till I get the new bulb.
Click to expand...

Yeah, i do know what you mean, it seems that when one thing is going right the next spanner is thrown into the works just to confuse you a little more. Your in a sweet spot at the moment, but now you need to replace a bulb so may begin to encounter problems from the change in balance, its enough to make you   Hopefully youll be ok though and you can adjust up if necessary   
Shutter speed etc is well out of my understanding, although i did attempt some fish shots with a higher ISO setting as suggested by Ian..... i failed   I found a setting on the camera that was close to what i saw when looking at the tank, then point and shoot was the order of the day  


			
				Antipofish said:
			
		

> You must be doing something right to grow balansae thats about ten metres long ! LOL


     that made me actually lol.
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', nearly a week on!*

Creating an image (ignoring stuff like composition etc) is down to a triangle of three factors which have a direct effect on each other.  Its called the exposure triangle ;

*Shutter Speed:* 
This is how quickly the shutter 'opens and shuts' to allow light onto the sensor (previously onto the film).  The slower the shutter speed the more light is let in as it were, and therefore the more information is captured and the brighter the image (called exposure).

*Aperture:* 
Light travels through the lens via a circular 'window' that is reduced or enlarged in size.  This window is known as aperture and is described by a number known as the f/stop.  The lower the number... 2.8, 2.0, 1.8, 1.4 then the wider the aperture and the more light is allowed in when the shutter is released.  The higher the number 11 16 22 then the smaller the aperture and the less light is allowed in when the shutter is released.

The wider the aperture when focussing on an object the more direct is the focussing, meaning if you have an aperture of say 2.8 or even 1.4 (on my lovely 50mm lens) you only get a small amount of the image in focus and the rest in front of and behind the spot you focus on is "out of focus"  This area of "out of focus" is called "Bokeh" (dont ask me why !)  Conversely the narrower the aperture (or the higher the f/stop) then the more you get in focus. 

But there is a trade off.  More in focus, less light in therefore you need a slower shutter speed to compensate.  This is what was causing me the problem.  I had a fixed amount of light.  I was being lazy and didnt want to set up the remote flash or mount the camera on the tripod !! And I wanted a crisp pic with a lot in focus.  This meant I had to slow the shutter speed down, but the slower you go when capturing moving objects (like fish or swaying plants) the more likely you are to get blurred images (especially when being a lazy blahblahblahblah and not using a tripod   ).

One more thing comes into the equation...

*ISO:* 
In the days of film this was known as ASA or Film Speed.  It was the sensitivity of the film to light.  As sensitivity to light changees, the duration that light is required to create a correct exposure (not too dark, not too bright) changes too.  The more sensitive (faster film speed) then the shorter the duration of light required.  The less sensitive (slower film speed) the more light required.  

You may say "why not just use the fastest film possible?"  Sadly it was not that simple in the days of film as the more sensitive the film was to light, the more "grain" effect you got.  (Reduces image quality and looks horrid, apart from for a few specific style shots for which it works well, but thats another story).

We dont use film now we use electronic sensors. But we still get increasing levels of grain as the ISO increases.  In the digital world ISO is essentially a setting that changes the camera sensor's sensitivity.  As it increases we still get grain, not because of grain as such, but because of electronic "noise" (the higher the ISO, the higher the sensors sensitivity to noise). So whilst you could whack your ISO way up the image will be horrid due to the noise.

I stopped at 1600 ISO which is more than a lot of cameras will give decent pics as and actually less than I could get a good image on mine, but then Im lucky and have a pretty expensive camera.  I have had perfectly acceptable images at 6400 ISO.

Anyway thats enough for one night. Hopefully its explained a few things.

Its actually pretty easy.  The more you play with these three settings and see how they interact the more you will get a feel for it.  Set your camera on a tripod, FIX the shutter speed at say 1/125th second and take the same picture over and over at each of the aperture settings.  Then do the same by FIXING the aperture but changing the shutter speed.  Then repeat both exercises by fixing each of those two variables and changing the ISO setting on your camera.  Do that a good few times and you will soon see the effect each has. Master the exposure triangle and you are more than half way there.

If you want some links to some free online tutorials PM me.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', nearly a week on!*

Thanks for that Chris, a pretty easy to follow breakdown, much appreciated. I may have a play, seems a bit like suck it and see really, trial and error to find what works best?
Cheers,
Ady.


----------



## Ian Holdich

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', nearly a week on!*

sometimes it is the best way to go around things...different tanks have different lighting, so my set up would be different for you tank. The vid is great also mate!


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', nearly a week on!*



			
				Ady34 said:
			
		

> Thanks for that Chris, a pretty easy to follow breakdown, much appreciated. I may have a play, seems a bit like suck it and see really, trial and error to find what works best?
> Cheers,
> Ady.



It can be trial and error, but the exercises above will give you an understanding of what changes you need to make.  Bear in mind you will want a specific look... Sometimes you want crisp and focussed with everything visible, for say a FTS, and this is when you use a higher f/stop number.  Other times you want just something specific in focus and you use a lower f/stop (wider aperture) for this.  That in turn alters the amount of light coming in which means you need to adjust your shutter speed accordingly.  (I wont go into exposure compensation at this stage, lol).  If you get the hang of those two variables and then bring in the effect of adjusting ISO with those two things, you will get a feel for what settings to begin with for your image, which eliminates a lot of trial and error when actually shooting


----------



## awtong

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', nearly a week on!*

Great video Ady.

Very helpful explanation for photography basics thanks Antipofish.

Andy


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', nearly a week on!*



			
				awtong said:
			
		

> Great video Ady.
> 
> Very helpful explanation for photography basics thanks Antipofish.
> 
> Andy



No probs.  Possibly not the best explanation but hopefully helps a little.  My best advice is practice practice practice and try out lots of different settings to see how they inter relate.    (I need to practice plenty more !!!)


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Update.*

Hi,
visited a local...ish aquatics shop for Fathers day and returned with 2 locally bred Rams and 2 male cherry barbs  :?  (insisted upon by my 3yr old son, one red one for him and one for his brother, wasnt even allowed to get a pair...the red ones were his favourite, apparently!).
Plants seem to be going downhill and am suffering some GSA on my hygrophila leaves (perhaps low phosphate), pinatiffida yellowing and loosing leaves, balansae fading a little and some melting, hairgrass at a standstill and overall doesnt seem to be in the sweet spot. C02 maximised, flow the same and lighting the same....im thinking ferts and the reduced health and growth of my floating plants seems to suggest this also. Increased dosing to 15ml daily of macro now, but also questioning the macro micro dosing on the same day, but need to research a bit more.
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Update.*

 , last couple of weeks or so ive noticed some fungus appearing on my vine wood, i had some when first set up, which disappeared as youd expect. Nothing unusual there but i thought it odd to reappear now and wondered why, then coincidentally ive just been reading the latest issue of PFK and there is a 'tank decoration' article. Quote.."Vivarium wood such as Grapevine is too soft for aquarium use and will rapidly rot. In fact, for this reason, all softwoods are to be avoided." I bought my wood from an aquatics store which is also heavily into vivariums and as vine wood....coincidence, i think not, i think my wood has started to rot   Will this cause serious issues? At the moment it is a white fluffy fungus which clearly ottos nor amanos are interested in.


----------



## faizal

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Update.*

I am sorry I don't know    but I hope it's not going to cause too much of an issue for you.Not all woods are created equal then. For what it's worth though thank you for letting us know Ady, because that's an important piece of information there for the rest of us.


----------



## Ian Holdich

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Update.*

it will cause problems eventually Ady...does it smell at all?


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Update.*



			
				ianho said:
			
		

> it will cause problems eventually Ady...does it smell at all?


No smell as yet, no evidence of any green mould or anything like that, just whit/grey fluffy.....oh well rescape may be sooner than planned! But probably not planted for the time being    Will monitor and see.


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Update.*

I agree with Ian mate, if its actually decomposing then it will cause probs as opposed to just leaching out a bit of initial muck.  I think we are talking about two different things and therefore two very different outcomes.  If it doesnt smell now it probably will do... I had some wood that did that, and the smell even got absorbed by the substrate so I ended up ripping out all the substrate too !!!


----------



## faizal

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Update.*

A really dumb question at this point,.....but Ady is it possible that you could remove just the affected wood(s) & replant again rather than a whole rescape,...it seems a shame to just let it go. I mean it might take you half a day or more but do you think that this may be possible. 

I'm sorry but I was just thinking what I might do in such a situation.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Update.*



			
				faizal said:
			
		

> A really dumb question at this point,.....but Ady is it possible that you could remove just the affected wood(s) & replant again rather than a whole rescape,...it seems a shame to just let it go. I mean it might take you half a day or more but do you think that this may be possible.
> 
> I'm sorry but I was just thinking what I might do in such a situation.


Hi Faizal,
trouble is there are only 2 pieces of wood in there and they are so integral to everything that it would just look wrong. All the ferns, moss and bolbitis are attached to them and they even go under the substrate in some areas so taking them out would mess everything up. I could remove them and attach the rhyzome plants to diffeent wood or rocks and keep the rest of the plants, but i just couldnt have them without some form af scaping so if i do remove them it will be a tear down. The first sign of any ill health from the fish and itll be coming out.



			
				Antipofish said:
			
		

> I agree with Ian mate, if its actually decomposing then it will cause probs as opposed to just leaching out a bit of initial muck. I think we are talking about two different things and therefore two very different outcomes. If it doesnt smell now it probably will do... I had some wood that did that, and the smell even got absorbed by the substrate so I ended up ripping out all the substrate too !!!


Yeah thats the worry, contaminating everything. If the wood comes out ill be rescaping and the substrate will be being renewed anyway as having pulled up a few balansae for you i know that the powersand will get mixed with the aquasoil when i remove the plants so i wont be reusing it anyway.
If it has to come out then ill be either decomissioning the tank temporarily, or running it as a non planted set up as i have some family commitments coming up which wont allow the time nor money to manage a new set up until probably the end of August.
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Update.*

Ady could you not suck out the aquasoil as much as possible before pulling anything out  ?  At least that way you get to keep (or even sell on) some substrate.  Just a thought.


----------



## Iain Sutherland

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Update.*

Sorry to hear your hand might be forced ady, thats a real shame.  Silver lining is everyone loves a rescape, im certainly keen to see what you come up with if you have to 
Everyday's a school day in the world of planted tanks!
Laters


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Update.*



			
				Antipofish said:
			
		

> Ady could you not suck out the aquasoil as much as possible before pulling anything out  ?  At least that way you get to keep (or even sell on) some substrate.  Just a thought.


Yeah thats a good idea Chris, could probably salvage a fair amount that way, cheers.



			
				easerthegeezer said:
			
		

> Sorry to hear your hand might be forced ady, thats a real shame. Silver lining is everyone loves a rescape, im certainly keen to see what you come up with if you have to
> Everyday's a school day in the world of planted tanks!
> Laters


Ha, yeah i love spending money, the wife will be thrilled...just told her im gonna order some shrimp....maybe ill keep this latest aquascaping education quiet for a while  :silent: 
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Update.*

Hi Ady, its what I did when I had to have a change around.  I salvaged about 85% of the florabase


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Update.*

This is what the stuff looks like, horrid    :












and a FTS after another trim just to balance the above with something more pleasant:






Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## sarahtermite

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Update.*

Ugh, you're right, you don't want that stuff in your tank. Thank you for counterbalancing with the lovely FTS - and I like the way the mossy wood on the right sort of forms a heart. Awwww.  



			
				Ady34 said:
			
		

> Cheerio,
> Ady.


----------



## ian_m

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Update.*



			
				Ady34 said:
			
		

> This is what the stuff looks like, horrid    :


I have had something like this on one of my bits of wood, it appears as something like a not so black BBA. Anyway lifting wood out and tooth brushing in neat Excel, leave a while, rinse off and replace wood seems to eventually get rid of it.

After putting wood back the "fur" went white and a few patches of green algae appeared in the "fur", but then just faded away. May have been scoffed by my Ottos who paid no attention to it before treatment.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', splash of colour...*

Hi, not great shots but thought id share a splash of colour none the less.






...and a few of my new Rams, id been wanting some for ages but was worried about them eating my shrimp....Amanos are solid though and they havnt touched them, but are being very picky eaters at the moment only taking frozen foods so i dont think they have coloured up fully yet. They are locally bred and were supposed to be taking flake etc....but arnt!





















Tank is ticking along again, plants seem happier with dosing Macro and Micro on seperate days....could just be me though but things seem greener again. Moving onto standard Macro salts as of tomorrow so will see how that goes.
Wood mould/fungus not getting worse, no smell etc so fingers crossed itll hold out till end of August/September for the rescape!
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## John S

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', splash of colour...*

Looking great as always Ady  I especially like the Ram pictures.


----------



## tim

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', splash of colour...*

gorgeous fish ady plant health looking good and the mention of a rescape i look forward to annother stunner


----------



## Timms2011

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', splash of colour...*

Those rams look awesome in your Aquarium, super pics, maybe they will need just a little bit more time to settle in before they start eating their flake food. Keep us posted  :thumb up: .... just thought i would add, I had 26 medium sized Armano shrimps in my aquarium, then I added 2 rams, next day not a single shrimp to in sight


----------



## faizal

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', splash of colour...*

Nice pictures Ady. Looking forward to  your rescape too   .


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', splash of colour...*

Hi Ady, are you feeding the same flake food as they were eating or a different brand ?  Maybe try mixing the flake up with the frozen food so they get a bit of both then gradually reduce if you want to. I do tend to think that fish always look better on a mix of food though, rather than just flake.  How many rams did you get ? I think they are stunning. Love the Bolivian ones too


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', splash of colour...*

Cheers guys   



			
				Antipofish said:
			
		

> Hi Ady, are you feeding the same flake food as they were eating or a different brand ?  Maybe try mixing the flake up with the frozen food so they get a bit of both then gradually reduce if you want to. I do tend to think that fish always look better on a mix of food though, rather than just flake.  How many rams did you get ? I think they are stunning. Love the Bolivian ones too


Ah well i dont know what flake they were feeding on, the shop owner said tetra prima (i think) but they dont take mine. I have a variety of foods including tetra prima, tetra pro, pro colour, pro vegetable, nutrafin max, tetra fresh daphnia, tetra fresh bloodworms and frozen tropical mix and daphnia. They get a variety and very occasional live foods so ill just keep persevering and mixing it up and see if they eventually take to it.
I got 2 rams, there was only 2 left in the tank, unsure if they are a male and female, the guy had another female elsewhere in the shop but i wasnt bothered about the sexes really. They seem to get on well anyway and arnt fighting at all so its all good on that front.
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## clonitza

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', splash of colour...*

Hey Ady, 

Just cover the affected wood with moss, it will take over the BBA eventually. Pull it out only if you plan a re-scape, it's too messy otherwise.

Mike


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Update.*



			
				ian_m said:
			
		

> Ady34 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what the stuff looks like, horrid    :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have had something like this on one of my bits of wood, it appears as something like a not so black BBA. Anyway lifting wood out and tooth brushing in neat Excel, leave a while, rinse off and replace wood seems to eventually get rid of it.
> 
> After putting wood back the "fur" went white and a few patches of green algae appeared in the "fur", but then just faded away. May have been scoffed by my Ottos who paid no attention to it before treatment.
Click to expand...




			
				clonitza said:
			
		

> Hey Ady,
> 
> Just cover the affected wood with moss, it will take over the BBA eventually. Pull it out only if you plan a re-scape, it's too messy otherwise.
> 
> Mike


Hi,
dont think its algae, the picture above looks more like algae but id just wafted the moss and the mould here got coated in a dusting of detrius so looks darker. The first picture on the previous page shows it a little better. It is affecting all the wood, but like you say removing it is a no go unless its causing other issues which it doesnt seem to be at the moment. Either way itll be going in the bin when i rescape.


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Decisions, Decision*

Well, ive been a little inactive on the forum recently, building up to my brothers wedding which took place over the weekend. It was a great day, and even better for me as as a gift for being his best man he showed his appreciation in the form of £150 TGM vouchers   
The tank has suffered a little neglect over the past few weeks and was already becoming a bit unmanageable. Mouldy wood, c02 running out and not being able to get on top of a few issues means it will be coming apart over the next few weeks. Its been a great learning experience but its time to move on as ive lost the drive for this tank.
Recently ive been considering lots of options for a new scape and have kind of baffled myself and lost any sense of direction. Having little finances available to put towards the tanks reinvention was leading me to the possibility of a plantless scape, and maybe i may still go this way. On the other hand now i have some funding in the form of the vouchers im considering a trip down to Wrexham at the end of the month, mainly to look at some options for hardscaping in the form of rocks, but it has got me thinking again about plants.....plus a trip to TGM is always a nice day out anyway!   Maybe i could look at a moss and rhyzome plant tank which may be lower maintenence and less high energy? Maybe gravel base with tropica substrate? £150 sounds a lot but i know i could easily blow that on hardscape and substrate, let alone plants and the glassware i would like to add so what do you guys think?
The tank is coming down, so should i keep it empty and wait until finances allow to go the whole hog again or just get something set up to keep me occupied for a while? I quite like the idea of sturisoma and corys so a wood and rock layout may work with a few less demanding rhyzome plants for a splash of green.
Id also been considering an iwagumi with grassy plants (possibly reusing much of the existing substrate and topping off with a bag of amazonia powder), which is now financially do-able at a push.
I know its all pretty vague, but suggestions would be appreciated  
Cheers,
Ady.


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Decisions, decision*

Hi Ady, for a start, the glassware you want can wait. That should be an item that you buy when you can afford it rather than using your start up budget. I expect you have that covered but thought I would mention it as sometimes we can overlook the option of shelving unnecessary items in the initial buy.  Have you considered the bonsai soil/ akadama as substrate with fert tabs and then an area of sand for the corys ? Or even a few 'sand lagoons'  to attract the corys ? (I recall a layout in one of my scaping books that has haphazard bare patches in the scape to offer some open space for the corys and it looked great). Also, dont get drawn into the trap of spending a lot of money on rockwork.  Some of the fancy stones available to us are all well and good but we read plenty of reports of members getting lovely stone from quarries, or large pebbles and cobbles from the beach or riverbeds for little or no money.  That way you have money to spend on the plants.  Im sure the CO2 wont cost you a lot to refill if you have not already done so and you certainly have the skills to manage a high tech tank so again, don't necessarily allow yourself to persuade yourself against it.  Ultimately you must do what you WANT to do, and you hit the nail on the head about possibly waiting.  Having said that if you WANT an expensive substrate which will blow your plant budget you could always do what you suggested, chuck in a bag of playand and some low tech plants as a temporary scape, buy the substrate you want (remember someone is selling 12L of malaya on here for 30 quid) and keep it on hold until you have the remaining budget to complete what you want to do.  It would give you time to think as well, but still have something running.   Hope that has not confused you all the more.


----------



## clonitza

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Decisions, decision*

Hi Ady, I know what you mean, I've been there myself.

You can try Tropica substrate or JBL Aquabasis topped by Unipac gravel (1-2mm), just don't make it as deep as you did in this scape, 1-2 cm for the decorative sand in front of the aquarium and a slope of 6cm deep in the back.
Reuse the stones you have to make the transition between the decorative sand and the rest of the scape and plant only stems in the back, 1-2 species should be enough, middle a couple of crypts (you already have them, just keep the good looking ones) and some glosso or hc around the rocks. Skip wood and fancy stones add them later when the scape is mature. You can hide the pipes with stems so you don't have to buy glassware 

Mike


----------



## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Decisions, decision*

Cheers for the suggestions guys. 
Chris, I know what you mean about glassware etc, but with this tank it's impossible to swap it all over without a strip down as its drilled base. This is the only reason I wanted to do it straight off, but like you say it's not essential and really I need to decide on my direction first before making any decisions. As for buying rocks, again sound advice however I do feel it's worth paying a little more for rocks as they are an investment and I haven't found a suitable au naturel rock I'm keen on yet   I need to decide what I want to do as this will determine substrate choice although I am strongly considering the tropica option for the next scape. 
Mike, I hear you too and reusing existing plants is an option but I do fancy something new and fresh so I'll be ditching most of these existing plants. I already have a nice batch of manzy wood in stock so although at the risk of being a bit repetitive ( like in the CR Shrimp tank) I'm going to be going using this somehow and maybe adding to the remaining dragon stone within this tank and in stock. Really now I just need to decide on the style I want to achieve and this will direct me into plant scheme. 
I'm pretty indecisive at the best of times so I'll be hoping for some further inspiration from my trip to TGM next weekend  
Cheerio,
Ady.


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## Ian Holdich

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Decisions, decision*

good luck with it Ady, i'm sure it'll be a winner. The Tropica stuff is quite cheap for what it is. Give me a nod when you sell all that lovely Balasae! ; )


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## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Decisions, decision*



			
				ianho said:
			
		

> good luck with it Ady, i'm sure it'll be a winner. The Tropica stuff is quite cheap for what it is. Give me a nod when you sell all that lovely Balasae! ; )


Cheers Ian.
Will do if I think it's up to a good enough standard to pass on


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## Ady34

*Re: Fluval Studio 900...'Dragons Crypt', Journal finished.*

Well this first planted tank venture has come to an end. The tank is now stripped and cleaned ready to go again. It's been a great learning experience helped along by the guidance of many ukaps members so thanks all for the advice along the way  
No pics unfortunately as currently can't upload but hope to get it sorted in the not too distant future to journal the next scape  
Cheerio
Ady


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## tim

looking forward to your new scape ady


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## Nathaniel Whiteside

Absolutely fantastic Journal Ady, shows how far you've come. One if the best journals I've read!

Bravo


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## Antipofish

Whitey89 said:
			
		

> Absolutely fantastic Journal Ady, shows how far you've come. One if the best journals I've read!
> 
> Bravo




I second that.  You achieved massive growth in there too.  Have thoroughly enjoyed it as much as I will the next no doubt.  PLEASE do a journal including all the stages   Its so cool to read that way, and I am too lazy to do it for mine, LOL.  Actually its what I am hoping to do for my new scape.  Looking forward to yours


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## Ady34

tim said:
			
		

> looking forward to your new scape ady


Cheers Tim, me too  



			
				Whitey89 said:
			
		

> Absolutely fantastic Journal Ady, shows how far you've come. One if the best journals I've read!
> 
> Bravo


Thanks very much Nath, really nice of you to say. Hopefully people may have learned something from it along the way as there have been a few ups and downs  



			
				Antipofish said:
			
		

> Whitey89 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely fantastic Journal Ady, shows how far you've come. One if the best journals I've read!
> 
> Bravo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I second that.  You achieved massive growth in there too.  Have thoroughly enjoyed it as much as I will the next no doubt.  PLEASE do a journal including all the stages   Its so cool to read that way, and I am too lazy to do it for mine, LOL.  Actually its what I am hoping to do for my new scape.  Looking forward to yours
Click to expand...

Cheers Chris, much appreciated and I'll do my best to document as much as I can. Good luck with your new optiwhite, looking forward to following that one


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## Ste.Baker80

I really like this tank... Love the bog wood used, the fact they are long peices is really nice, instead of the small single peices i'm more accostomed seeing..

I will be following this post.. Good luck..


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## Ady34

Ste.Baker80 said:


> I really like this tank... Love the bog wood used, the fact they are long peices is really nice, instead of the small single peices i'm more accostomed seeing..
> 
> I will be following this post.. Good luck..


Hi Ste and thanks for the positive feedback 
i too loved the wood, and the pieces were easy to use as there was only 2 so it wasnt a complex scape to put together. I found that the vine wood is not suited long term to submersed life as it began to rot, getting a nasty coating of fungus as you'll probably have seen 

this journal has now been closed and the tank has followed a couple of different routes, currently running as the 'sticks and stones' journal in my links below, after a brief rock only scape (coastal erosion) which didn't last long!
Thanks again, was a surprise seeing this one pop up again!
Cheerio,
Ady.


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