# Aquarium fish tank marine metal halide lighting 400w



## Gazb227 (5 Aug 2010)

The Overtank Metal Halide light is raised clear from the top of the tank on a adjustable support bracket, which attaches securely onto the glass side walls.

The Light is fully adjustable for you to be able to tilt the light closer to you water surface.

The built in Reflectors raise the power of the light about 50% extra

This Marine Metal Halide model comes with 1 X 400W 10K Single ended Metal Halide bulb. Bulb are included with the unit.

The unit also has a powerful built in cooling fan to keep your aquarium tank cool.

 Features

 High quality Aluminium cover
 Bracket can be moved anywhere along your tank.
 Open top allows plant growth beyond the water surface
 In-built reflectors, to maximise the light output
 Adjustable mounting bracket

External Ballast supplied which controls both the Halide light and built in Cooling Fan.

On and off switch for each individual parts control

 Unit is available in Black Only

 Specification

 30w Cooling fan
 Measurements: 445 x 265 x 620 mm
 Metal Halide Bulb: 1 x 400W 10000K

will they be any good for a 112 gallon high tech tank im setting up im new to planted tanks any info will be more than welcome thanks


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## ceg4048 (5 Aug 2010)

Hi,
   400 watts is a lot of light, even for a 100G tank. Your next purchase had better be some serious CO2 equipment, as well as seriously strong filtration.

Cheers,


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## Gazb227 (5 Aug 2010)

what would you recommend i dont have much money i just got a JBL Co2 Profi 2 system two interpet hydor prime20 plus the light was only Â£40 each why i looked at them


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## ceg4048 (5 Aug 2010)

Well, I mean, buying a 400 megawatt Intercontinental Ballistic Missile for 40 quid isn't much of a bargain if you then have to spend a few hundred quid to avoid nurturing an algae farm.  You'll need 1000 gallons per hour of filtration/powerhead rating and a few kilograms per week of CO2 to support that level of energy. 

What you could do is to find a way to reduce the energy levels reaching the tank. If you could obscure the bulb with darkened glass or other obstruction, or if you could use a lower wattage bulb, then that might be a good option. If you could raise the distance between the light and the tank by several feet then that would be another option.

Cheers,


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## Gazb227 (5 Aug 2010)

thanks mate what kind of watts am i looking at getting i have 7 arcadia 25/30w starters would i be better off using them and building a hud


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## ceg4048 (6 Aug 2010)

Yes, certainly if you are handy, and can build your own hood, then I'd suggest that you stay below the 200W barrier if these are T5. If they are T8 then you can go a little higher. Just to be clear, I'm not suggesting that higher wattages can't be used successfully, only that the demands are much more stringent for flow, CO2 and nutrients with increasing wattage. After you cut your teeth on the lower wattages and have a firm handle on things you'll be prepared to deal with the challenges resulting from the stronger wattages. In all tanks, and in tanks of this size particularly, flow/distribution and CO2 come before everything else.

Cheers,


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## Gazb227 (6 Aug 2010)

seen 4x35W T5 Lighting hanging lamp inst. of halide lamp 180 on ebay it will put 140w on t5s will that do mate feel like a pest lol keep asking things


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## ceg4048 (6 Aug 2010)

No worries mate. 140W is a _much_ more realistic lighting goal than 400W. Of that there can be very little doubt. Remember that one can always add more lighting, so it's always best to walk before you run.

Cheers,


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## Gazb227 (7 Aug 2010)

will it not matter that im not meeting (wpg) mate.


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## ceg4048 (7 Aug 2010)

Well you really need to avoid becoming hypnotized by WPG for the moment. That parameter is merely a general guide. Taking into account the bulb technology, and size of the tank, it enables people to communicate regarding the general energy levels entering the tank. Plants don't have any specific WPG requirement per se. They do have a minimum energy level needed to survive, but this level is usually quite low and it cannot be determined by WPG.

There is a very tight relationship between the amount of light penetrating the water and the need for nutrients and CO2. When the lighting level is low the nutrient/CO2 consumption (and therefore requirements) are low. When the lighting is high the nutrient/CO2 consumption is high. If you use high light and then do not supply high levels of nutrients/CO2 then the plant faces starvation and the system fails. Algal blooms are the inevitable result.

Our experience reveals that 400W of this type of lighting over that size tank is extremely high energy, which of course requires very high nutrient/CO2 levels to support the consumption. You could grow very nice plants with 100W T5 over that tank. The growth rates would simply be slower. All more light does is to grow things more quickly. That also means you approach disaster more quickly.

If you are just beginning with a CO2 injected tank, the very last thing that should be considered is the light. If money is the root of all evil in a society then high lighting is the root of all evil in a tank. If you are on a budget then the first item on your priority list ought to be to get the strongest filter(s) you can afford. Another high priority is to get the biggest CO2 cylinder you can afford. Yet another high priority is to study the nutrient dosing schemes and to determine cost effective methods of dosing.

These are the things that will ensure your success. The stronger the lighting, ironically, the less your probability of success will be. I always try to steer people away from strong lighting in the beginning. It's like some kind of drug and like drugs, it harbours nothing but trouble. The bigger the tank, the bigger the trouble. Search this forum for threads on flow, distribution and CO2. These are the elements that will have the strongest impact in the most positive way. Paying attention to these parameters will save you a lot of trouble and will be loads more beneficial than obsessing about WPG.

Cheers,


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