# 45 cm cube iwagumi, my first tank :)



## Jack Reilly (10 Jul 2016)

*The hardscape*






I had to break up some of the plainer rocks with a hammer to make little rocks to make the layout work.






*The plant plan, monte carlo and some hairgrass*








*Hardware: *

ADA Tank & Stand
Do!Aqua glass Lily pipes
Eheim 2215 filter
2.6kg c02 keg
VIV diffuser
9L ADA AS
9L ADA AS Powder
Finnex Planted + LED Lighting
Hydor inline heater
Seiryu stone


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## J Art (11 Jul 2016)

Looks great. Take your time and be patient. Don't be afraid to put in some temporary plants to help establish things in the beginning. Some easy, large leaf varieties or floating. Iwagumis are slightly more difficult because of the low plant mass in the beginning. The larger leafs may help out-compete algae right from the get-go. Once your monte carlo and hairgrass start to take off, you can start removing the startup plants. Best of luck and the hardscape looks fantastic!


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## rebel (11 Jul 2016)

Well done. Cubes are hard to scape and you've done well. Better have frogbit floating at first for a while.


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## Greenfinger2 (11 Jul 2016)

Hi Jack, Nice scape


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## Jack Reilly (11 Jul 2016)

Thanks guys. If I add some temporary plants to fend off algae what do I do with them afterwards? I'd feel bad throwing them out.


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## Greenfinger2 (11 Jul 2016)

Hi Good excuse to get another tank


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## Tim Harrison (11 Jul 2016)

Very nice hardscaping...
Yep more plants = MTS


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## GotCrabs (11 Jul 2016)

You could either keep them and put into a new tank, perhaps a small nano, nothing too large and something that can be used as a display piece elsewhere in the home, or you could perhaps just sell them off to someone on an Australian forum, or give them away, or swap them for something else.


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## GotCrabs (11 Jul 2016)

Amazon Frogbit would be ideal to have floating on the surface while the tank is new.


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## Jack Reilly (12 Jul 2016)

Tank is all planted, I'm running the C02 at 5bps while there is no lifestock. Lighting is 6 hours with a 1 hour break in the middle, c02 is 7 hours and comes on an hour before lighting. The areas of dirt where nothing is planted is actually just some AS that has spilled over the rocks, too shallow to plant.




I'm using the stock Eheim inlet/outlet pipes until my see-through silicon tubing arrives.




I asked for some Frogbit at the LFS but they only had a handful. On the bright side they gave it to me for free.


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## Jack Reilly (12 Jul 2016)

As I originally bought this light fixture for a long tank rather than the cube, do you think it's still okay for the cube? I'm wondering if the light will be received adequately by both the front and the back of the tank.


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## rebel (12 Jul 2016)

Jack Reilly said:


> As I originally bought this light fixture for a long tank rather than the cube, do you think it's still okay for the cube? I'm wondering if the light will be received adequately by both the front and the back of the tank.


Looks quite bright.

To your eye, does it provide enough for the fore and background? If it does, then it should be fine. How  many Watts is it?


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## GotCrabs (12 Jul 2016)

Judging by the photos I think you have enough light, shouldn't be an issue.


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## Jack Reilly (14 Jul 2016)

rebel said:


> Looks quite bright.
> 
> To your eye, does it provide enough for the fore and background? If it does, then it should be fine. How  many Watts is it?



But aren't the perceived brightness of lights and the actual light being received by the plants two different things? And does knowing the Watts of a light still matter when it's an LED?

I had a look at some PAR recordings others have done of the Planted Plus LED and although the PAR readings at the front and back of my tank is in the low/medium light range, the monte carlo seems to be growing strong, after just 4 days lots of little shoots are popping up out of the subtrate even at the very front of the tank, so for now I'm not worried. The hairgrass hasn't done anything but could be putting out roots under the substrate.

I did trim the hairgrass before planting (it was long), but when do you think I should trim it again to encourage new growth (outwards rather than upwards)?

Tank is now nice and clear, yay! If I'm going to have algae issues with a brand new tank & filter, when do they usually start happening?


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## Alexander Belchenko (14 Jul 2016)

You have very little biomass right now, so it's very likely you'll have some algaes, most likely green threads come first. To avoid this you'd better add some floating plants like amazon frogbit to help eat excess of nutrients and slightly dim the light.

Also, what's your plans on livestock? It seems your filter inlet has no guard at all, which is not good thing to fish or shrimps, and even to snails.


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## Jack Reilly (14 Jul 2016)

The filter inlet and outlet are temporary. I have some do!aqua lily pipes but waiting on silicone tubing before using them. I won't be putting in livestock for quite a while and definitely not with the inflow pipe like that. I'm cycling the tank fishless.

I did get a bit of frogbit as suggested but they only had a handful left, just small ones. They said they'd have more in a few days so I'm going to get some more. I can't dim the lights as it doesn't have a dimmer function. But it looks more powerful than it is, it's meant to be a medium/low plant light at my tank dimensions.


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## Dantrasy (14 Jul 2016)

For mc the planted + will be fine. For hc it may lack the power to grow low and dense, but cross that bridge when you have to.

Your setup is great! And the hardscape looks really cool!


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## Alexander Belchenko (14 Jul 2016)

Jack Reilly said:


> I did get a bit of frogbit as suggested but they only had a handful left, just small ones. They said they'd have more in a few days so I'm going to get some more. I can't dim the lights as it doesn't have a dimmer function. But it looks more powerful than it is, it's meant to be a medium/low plant light at my tank dimensions.



Forgbit usually grow very easily and quite fast. Several plants would be enough, it's anyway temporary for first few weeks - first month or so. UPD: sorry, it seems you've already have some frogbit, couple more would be great.

About the light: I didn't imply you need a dimmer on light unit, just said your floating plants will reduce light at some degree, which is good for start up phase.

Also, last few months I have LED light on my home tank, and despite it looks not as bright as good ol T5 which lit all the room outside the tank, LED is actually more focused and produce more light directly under the unit rather than outside the tank, so your plants would have enough light to grow. Don't be mislead by outside visible light intensity though.


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## Lindy (14 Jul 2016)

Jack Reilly said:


> Tank is now nice and clear, yay! If I'm going to have algae issues with a brand new tank & filter, when do they usually start happening?


They usually start happening just after you think you are in the clear and start congratulating yourself on no algae . Tank looks great.


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## Alexander Belchenko (14 Jul 2016)

Love your hardscape, it has very strong angle, and that suggest me you might think about adding some diagonal (rosetta) plants at the background left part around single finger rock, e.g. some low crypts (parva maybe) or blyxa. Just a thought.


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## Ryan Thang To (15 Jul 2016)

hi
tank looking great. keep up the good work

cheers
ryan


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## Ryan Thang To (15 Jul 2016)




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## MrHidley (15 Jul 2016)

Superb looking first tank!


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## Jack Reilly (17 Jul 2016)

Some areas of my MC are growing really well, other's are dying off. I think this is dependent on which pots the MC came from or how I planted/separated some of the MC.

What do I do with the plants that are dying or die completely? This was the easiest photo to take, but behind the large rock it is much more severe. Some patches there are very much dead.






I'm not concerned because a lot of the tank is growing strongly, but just wondering what i do with all the decaying plant matter. Do i trim them down and let the roots shoot out fresh growth? Or do I just leave them to rot?


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## MrHidley (18 Jul 2016)

Jack Reilly said:


> Some areas of my MC are growing really well, other's are dying off. I think this is dependent on which pots the MC came from or how I planted/separated some of the MC.
> 
> What do I do with the plants that are dying or die completely? This was the easiest photo to take, but behind the large rock it is much more severe. Some patches there are very much dead.
> 
> ...



Monte Carlo in my experience seems to transition much better as single strands rather than clumps, I have no idea why. Just make sure to remove the dead bits so you don't end up with extra ammonia, which will lead to algae.


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## Jack Reilly (18 Jul 2016)

Yes you're right, I noticed the single strands are flourishing while the clumps are dying. The bigger the clumps the more catastrophic the die off.

I have removed the clumps or strands that are completely dead, but there are many that are half dead. The stalk looks dead but have bright green shoots at the tip. What do I do with those? I'll try to take a photo because it's hard to explain.


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## Jack Reilly (29 Jul 2016)

Does anyone know of this is a problem,  having my Inflow high? These lily pipes were bought for a smaller tank so I'm not sure if they're okay on this tank.


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## Jack Reilly (29 Jul 2016)

Well I can partly answer my own question,  realized i can't do any 25% water changes with the filter on because of how high the Intake is.  And if I turn the filter off I'm guessing the intake will drain once water line is lower than the intake which means I'll have to prime it again which is  a pain.


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## alto (29 Jul 2016)

Jack Reilly said:


> And if I turn the filter off I'm guessing the intake will drain once water line is lower than the intake


It should only drain a bit in the tank, when you refill the tank this should mostly refill ... just turn filter back on & all should be fine (at least this seems to work fine with my Eheim Pro's)
If you forget to turn the filter off when the water level drops too low, you can fill the canister with air - this generally requires a bit of effort to resolve 




Jack Reilly said:


> just wondering what i do with all the decaying plant matter.


The advantages of shrimp/snails added at tank start up  (they do the fiddly bits)
Trim/brush/siphon away what you can (though depending on soil used, you may need to be very careful not to release plant completely from the substrate), where there's new shoots at the ends, you can "bury" the melty bits in the substrate (I expect this has resolved by now).

Nice hardscape


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## Jack Reilly (29 Jul 2016)

alto said:


> The advantages of shrimp/snails added at tank start up  (they do the fiddly bits)
> Trim/brush/siphon away what you can (though depending on soil used, you may need to be very careful not to release plant completely from the substrate), where there's new shoots at the ends, you can "bury" the melty bits in the substrate (I expect this has resolved by now).
> 
> Nice hardscape



HI alto,
Unfortunately this was a brand new filter and tank so the cycle is taking a long time,  so I couldn't add any clean up crews.  I did try to remove some of the decaying matter but as you said it's tricky with the substrate. I couldn't get much of it out.

Now I'm having some algae issues but not very good at identifying them.  I've tried to remove them but don't want to mess with the tank too much when the cycle is almost complete.


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## Dantrasy (29 Jul 2016)

Your pipes are fine. In the past I've even used an outtake as an intake. 

Before doing a wc turn off the filter and close the intake tap - that will stop any water draining from the intake pipe and stop air going into the filter once it's switched on again.


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## MrHidley (29 Jul 2016)

The brown algae on your rocks is diatoms, it will brush off very easily and otos will eat it. It will also disappear in a few weeks once your tank is fully cycled.


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## Jack Reilly (31 Jul 2016)

I thought they were diatoms but glad you confirmed it.  Hoping the other one isn't hair algae.  

I have another question, I got a drop checker and some commercial 4dkh solution.  It starts off blue and slowly turns yellow during the day when the co2 is on.  The problem is once it's yellow it never changes back to any other colour.  Even after sixteen hours of no co2 being run it's still yellow.  Any ideas why?


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## Alexander Belchenko (1 Aug 2016)

I'd replace solution for different vendor.


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## MrHidley (1 Aug 2016)

I'd also check there isn't any surface scum blocking the drop checker.


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## Jack Reilly (4 Aug 2016)

MrHidley said:


> I'd also check there isn't any surface scum blocking the drop checker.


Thank you,  that was the problem.  There was a bubble just above the solution and there was a bit of liquid above the bubble.  It created an airlock which must have been the issue.  I popped it and now it's working fine.


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## Jack Reilly (6 Sep 2016)

Hello!

Few months in and growth has been pretty slow (think the light is pretty weak). MC finally filled in and added some ambulia at the back so the inhabitants have a place to hide. Got some golden tetras, ottos and glass shrimp in there.

Inhabitants have been happy and healthy for a month, some of the shrimp are carrying eggs now.

I had severe diatoms and had to hack away at a lot of the plants to remove it as they were dying due to having the light blocked out. I tried the toothbrush twirling trick but the carpet was coming out along with the diatoms! So I hacked it up instead so it could get some light. Eventually the ottos and shrimp finished the rest.

Since then I have had *BGA* that just wont *go away  
*
I remove it all and then a few days later its back. I've cut lighting back to 6hrs and c02 seems okay (on 3 hours before lights on now and off 1 hour before lights off). I'm dosing cal aqua shine and chrome, and seachem nitrogen and phosphorus according to directions. Nitrates were always 0ppm (maybe cause of purigen?) so I figured perhaps this was cause of BGA, so upped dosing of nitrogen until nitrates were showing.

Any advice on what to do?


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## Tim Harrison (6 Sep 2016)

Coming along nicely


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## Alexander Belchenko (6 Sep 2016)

Why don't you remove purigen then?

BGA is actually cyano bacteria. It can be "cured" by some antibiotic. I can't translate to English the name of what is used in my country though.


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## kadoxu (6 Sep 2016)

What a nice scape! Simple and effective!


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## CooKieS (6 Sep 2016)

Hi, do you have enough flow?

BGA hates strong water current, a little power filter (eheim compact) or even a skimmer (eheim skim) can help. 

Also daily dosing of easylife easycarbo can get rid of it.


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## EdwinK (6 Sep 2016)

I would consider lowering the phosphates to half a recommended dose.


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## Jack Reilly (6 Sep 2016)

Alexander Belchenko said:


> Why don't you remove purigen then?
> 
> BGA is actually cyano bacteria. It can be "cured" by some antibiotic. I can't translate to English the name of what is used in my country though.


I like polished water. Adding nitrogen should have the same affect. I looked into using antibiotics but many recommended against them as they only treat the symptoms and not the cause of the BGA.


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## Jack Reilly (6 Sep 2016)

CooKieS said:


> Hi, do you have enough flow?
> 
> BGA hates strong water current, a little power filter (eheim compact) or even a skimmer (eheim skim) can help.
> 
> Also daily dosing of easylife easycarbo can get rid of it.


I was dosing excel for a few weeks but it didn't seem to affect the BGA. 

I also looked into flow being the issue but I seem to be getting BGA where there is a lot of flow from the cal aqua down facing lily pipe. I can visibly see the strong flow from the c02 being distributed right over the BGA.


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## Jack Reilly (6 Sep 2016)

EdwinK said:


> I would consider lowering the phosphates to half a recommended dose.


Any reason why? The BGA appeared before I begun dosing phosphates and nitrogen. My measuring kit was showing low phosphates but I have heard they're accuracy is bad.


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## EdwinK (6 Sep 2016)

Jack Reilly said:


> Any reason why? The BGA appeared before I begun dosing phosphates and nitrogen. My measuring kit was showing low phosphates but I have heard they're accuracy is bad.


Sometimes excess of phosphates can cause BGA especially with no nitrates present.


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## Jack Reilly (6 Sep 2016)

EdwinK said:


> Sometimes excess of phosphates can cause BGA especially with no nitrates present.


That could be it because after my diatom bloom there was a lot of plant decay which would have meant zero nitrates and high phosphates, and that's when the BGA started!


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## Manisha (7 Sep 2016)

Really nice scape - it looks brilliant for your first attempt ☺


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## Greenfinger2 (13 Sep 2016)

Hi Jack, Love this scape


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## Jack Reilly (25 Oct 2016)

I fought a 6 week fight with BGA, my plants suffered terribly. They're finally bouncing back.

Some of my Australian Glass shrimp have had babies. Only a handful survived, but I heard that they don't breed in freshwater?

*Added Gear: *
Chihiros Aquasky 452
Chihiros Doctor 2
Bazooka Atomiser
Eheim Skimmer 350

*Added Plants:*
Fissiden Moss (only been a few days)

Still need to learn how to take photos of tanks. It seems difficult.


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## Dantrasy (26 Oct 2016)

Maybe the side with the drop checker should be the front? I think the rocks looming forward is pretty interesting.


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## Jack Reilly (26 Oct 2016)

Dantrasy said:


> Maybe the side with the drop checker should be the front? I think the rocks looming forward is pretty interesting.


Maybe, when the hair grass finally fills out haha. It's shaded by the rock and is taking forever to fill in. I trim it down almost weekly and it grows back but doesn't carpet.


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## Manisha (27 Oct 2016)

What are your fish? I really like them ☺


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## Jack Reilly (27 Oct 2016)

Manisha said:


> What are your fish? I really like them ☺


Gold Tetra. I like them too. They're shy though. I have to sneak up on my hands and knees to get a close look.


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## dw1305 (27 Oct 2016)

Hi all, 





Jack Reilly said:


> Gold Tetra. I like them too.


<"_Hemigrammus rodwayi">, _I've never seen a gold one, so I assume they are captive bred. They are a really nice fish and a a brilliant platinum colour. 

I've had them in a planted tank, with floaters and tannin tinted water, and they were always out and about. 

cheers Darrel


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## Jack Reilly (27 Oct 2016)

dw1305 said:


> Hi all, <"_Hemigrammus rodwayi">, _I've never seen a gold one, so I assume they are captive bred. They are a really nice fish and a a brilliant platinum colour.
> 
> I've had them in a planted tank, with floaters and tannin tinted water, and they were always out and about.
> 
> cheers Darrel


These ones are wild caught. I think they need the presence of a parasite to have their skin turn gold.

They were less shy when the ambulia was tall and bushy, but i had to cut it back when I had BGA. I'm sure once it grows back they will be happier. It's not floaters and tinted water, but I'm not living in my dream house either, lol.

Mine only hide when I'm close. They're active when I'm a couple of metres away. They school really nicely.


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## Jack Reilly (27 Oct 2016)

Does anyone have any recommendations for plants I can squeeze in here ? I have Ambulia, HC, MC, hair grass and fissiden Moss. I'm using this tank as a learning experience so I want to try and grow as many different plants as I can.


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## tim (27 Oct 2016)

Micranthemum micranthemoides would fit nicely behind the rocks or rotala wallichi, a few small crypts like parva or pygmea or willisi could be mixed into the carpet around the rocks, hygro araguia can also be mixed into the carpet plants to good effect, riccardia chamdryfolia can be wedged into rock crevices to name a few.


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## Manisha (27 Oct 2016)

I love them!I thought they might be http://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/microdevario-kubotai/ but yours are even nicer


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## Jack Reilly (28 Oct 2016)

tim said:


> Micranthemum micranthemoides would fit nicely behind the rocks or rotala wallichi, a few small crypts like parva or pygmea or willisi could be mixed into the carpet around the rocks, hygro araguia can also be mixed into the carpet plants to good effect, riccardia chamdryfolia can be wedged into rock crevices to name a few.



Micranthemum micranthemoides will definitely work. I saw some cool shots of hygro araguaia mixed into carpets and bushy plants, but I'm worried the leaves are too big for my tank. I might try some riccardia too, even though I already have fissiden, doesn't hurt to try both. 

Thank you so much for the suggestions Tim.


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## Jack Reilly (28 Oct 2016)

Manisha said:


> I love them!I thought they might be http://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/microdevario-kubotai/ but yours are even nicer


They look really cute. They do have a similar reflective gold skin colour.


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## Manisha (28 Oct 2016)

Jack Reilly said:


> They look really cute. They do have a similar reflective gold skin colour.



Too many species, you really need an entire fish room...!


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## Jack Reilly (31 Oct 2016)

Some photos of my good friends


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## CooKieS (31 Oct 2016)

I've seen these tetra in a local LFS today, awesome but they were BIG (4 cm )


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## Jack Reilly (31 Oct 2016)

CooKieS said:


> I've seen these tetra in a local LFS today, awesome but they were BIG (4 cm )


Mine are 3cm. Had them about four months. hope they don't get much bigger.


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## Jack Reilly (4 Nov 2016)

When do you guys recommend trimming the Monte Carlo? When do the bottom layers start to rot? Or is that dependant on lighting? I'm thinking at 2.5-3cm trim it?


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## Jack Reilly (11 Dec 2016)




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## Tim Harrison (11 Dec 2016)

Very delicate...nice


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## Jack Reilly (11 Dec 2016)

Hi everyone. Just an update. Not much changed. New job is keeping me busy so haven't had the chance to make all the changes I wanted to.

I'm getting heaps of bba. I've been getting this for ages. But only on the stones. I'm getting zero algae of any kind on the plants.

Seems this is usually inconsistent co2 , but Mines been rock solid for months. It's always yellow on the drop checker by nightfall and always same bps. Really weird.


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## Jack Reilly (21 Dec 2016)

After six months of no fatalities, in just two days three shrimp have died and an Otto jumped out of the tank and died. Water test kit says everything is fine. Everything else looks happy in the tank. Could this be a coincidence? My gut says something went wrong but I don't know what it could be.

All I can think of is the CO2 being too high. But my golden tetras are fine. Arggh


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## alto (24 Dec 2016)

Maybe try frequent water changes for a couple weeks, add some carbon into the filter for a month or so ... is it easy to remove the main rocks & scrub out the BBA, then spray with Seachem Excel etc, let sit an hour or so, rinse well & return to tank (just in case the BBA is releasing some metabolites that are causing an issue)


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## Jack Reilly (4 Jan 2017)

alto said:


> Maybe try frequent water changes for a couple weeks, add some carbon into the filter for a month or so ... is it easy to remove the main rocks & scrub out the BBA, then spray with Seachem Excel etc, let sit an hour or so, rinse well & return to tank (just in case the BBA is releasing some metabolites that are causing an issue)


I performed water changes as suggested but the rocks are unable to be removed. But I have got the bba under control using flourish excel. Haven't lost a soul since. Back to normal 

Still not sure what caused the multiple deaths, maybe the CO2, maybe the metabolites, maybe the heat (Australia, so sometimes hard to keep the temp at 25. Though I check it daily and only ever seen it go to 27).

I need to toughen up, I get really upset even losing one fish. It's just that their whole world is under my control. I hate the idea of them suffering because I did something wrong.


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## dw1305 (4 Jan 2017)

Hi all,





Jack Reilly said:


> I get really upset even losing one fish. It's just that their whole world is under my control. I hate the idea of then suffering because I did something wrong.


I'm still the same and I started keeping fish in the 1970's.

cheers Darrel


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## Jack Reilly (16 Mar 2017)

Does anyone know why my Monte Carlo is always melting? Ive had a healthy carpet for 5 months but the last few months the carpet is always translucent in areas. 

Can a nutrient imbalance cause this? I'm a bit confused as everything seems fine. My ambulia is growing like a weed and my fissiden is also growing well. The Monte Carlo looks like when you spray excel over a plant and it dies off. 

I do dose excel, can that cause a carpet to melt?


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## Daveslaney (16 Mar 2017)

Have you any pics of MC?
Have you trmmed it lately?Sometimes it can look abit yellow and worse for wear for a few days after a trim.


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## Jack Reilly (27 Apr 2017)

Daveslaney said:


> Have you any pics of MC?
> Have you trmmed it lately?Sometimes it can look abit yellow and worse for wear for a few days after a trim.


It looks like crap for weeks. I think I'm over doing the trimming. Or maybe my scissors are blunt. They're Viv scissors though so should be okay.


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## Jack Reilly (27 Apr 2017)

Switched to the kessil a160 tuna sun. I wanted easier access to the tank and found the aquasky a bit too much light. I was growing an algae farm. Love the kessil, controller great too. 

It will be interesting to see how it grows plants, I mostly see the 360 used in high-tech.


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## AndreiD (28 Apr 2017)

Did you find out why was Monte Carlo melting ?

Or this problem went away since you changed the lights ?

Thanks


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## Jack Reilly (28 Apr 2017)

AndreiD said:


> Did you find out why was Monte Carlo melting ?
> 
> Or this problem went away since you changed the lights ?
> 
> Thanks


Monte Carlo still melting, but I haven't had the new light long enough to know if it will solve the issue. I will update once it's been another week or two.


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## alto (29 Apr 2017)

Great to see the update 

Re MC melt I'd look to water column fertilizing (as your CO2 & light seem fine) - MC has more root structure than HC but I still suspect it needs suitable water column "food" if your growth is relatively fast
(I'm rather good at slow small growth MC  - never observe transparent leafs)

How big are your "gold" tetras now? still gold?

There are likely a couple species that ship as "gold" or "brass" tetras (all wild caught if displaying the "gold") - one species seems to remain considerably smaller ... last shipment at my lfs appeared to have both species

Kessil fan here too


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## Jack Reilly (29 Apr 2017)

alto said:


> Great to see the update
> 
> Re MC melt I'd look to water column fertilizing (as your CO2 & light seem fine) - MC has more root structure than HC but I still suspect it needs suitable water column "food" if your growth is relatively fast
> (I'm rather good at slow small growth MC  - never observe transparent leafs)
> ...


Could the MC be melting because of too many nutrients? Because I dose EI dry ferts and have really deep Ada AS so the plants would be swimming in nutrients. 


The tetras have remained the same size but have become even golder than before. Whether that's down to food or just the light I don't know. But they're quite golden. 

And I'm kicking myself for not getting the kessil from day one ( which I wanted to do).


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## AndreiD (29 Apr 2017)

When i had Aquasky 601 over a 60 cm tank , i had the same problem , solved it after i added 0.5 ppm iron each other day from Easy life (Ferro)


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