# Cabinet and aquarium levelling



## tadabis (13 Sep 2016)

Hello,

I want to ask is it safe to level the cabinet using these plastic shims?
Is it safe to do it? Because cabinet corners over the shims will be slightly lifted and can cause strees to the tank. Can someone explain me how to do it right? Thank you.


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## ian_m (13 Sep 2016)

Don't use these you will end up damaging the cabinet as it settles when water is added as the cabinet is resting only on a tiny edge.

You need these
http://www.screwfix.com/p/broadfix-glazing-packers-medium-100-x-1-6-x-28mm-225-pcs/33302

Or these chopped in half.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/broadfix-assorted-plastic-shims-medium-x-x-100-pcs/99189

or the super duper big boys box....
http://www.screwfix.com/p/broadfix-assorted-levelling-kit-one-size-205-x-x-200-pcs/7565f

Used before to level a friends tank on a slightly uneven tiled floor. Mess around with differing height shims using a long spirit level first and use a peice of block board (18mm), cut at B&Q to tank bottom size. Once done tack the shims to the floor using the smallest amount of adhesive possible so they don't move when you place the cabinet on them.

Use board like this.
http://www.diy.com/departments/spruce-plywood-board-th12mm-w607mm-l2440mm/555710_BQ.prd


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## HiNtZ (13 Sep 2016)

Personally I'd put a bottom plate on the cabinet if it hasn't got one, just a square of wood screwed to the lip of the cabinet skirt. Then you have a nice flat surface to pack in the middle too, and not just the edges.


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## tadabis (13 Sep 2016)

So as I understand without any board at the bottom its imposible to use shims otherwise it will damage cabinet?


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## ian_m (13 Sep 2016)

Not really, could just use shims under cabinet edge, but much easier to level a board then place cabinet on it.


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## rebel (14 Sep 2016)

Hey guys, can you explain what you mean by 'board'? Can you just buy one or have to DIY?


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## tadabis (15 Sep 2016)

Ian said that its better to buy same dimensions as a cabinet bottom panel board (plywood or etc sheet) and place it on the ground, than check the level and adjust if necessary till its level, and then just place cabinet and tank on top of leveled board.


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## ian_m (15 Sep 2016)




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## zozo (15 Sep 2016)

This is realy something that needs to be looked at in situ..  The floor, the cabinet, the tank and it's dimensions. If there is weight involved like for example a 250 litre tank you're talking about +/- 350 kilo load when setup.. This weight needs to be evenly spreaded over a larger surface, 20mm wide plastic shims is asking for trouble. It all depends on the floor and cabinet construction to see what's the best option to use.

I once had a 400 kilo setup standing on a 4 legged steal framework on a concrete floor. It stood for many years on 2 plywood boards 20 cm wide 55 cm long. 1 left 18 mm thick and 1 right 22mm thick to level it out. For a concrete floor and a steal frame this was sufficient. If it was the case to need to level it out over 3 corners i would have needed 4 smaller boards (tiles) in different thickness..

You need some surface to spread the load, the less surface you use the more stress it needs to endure.


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## HiNtZ (15 Sep 2016)

zozo said:


> This is realy something that needs to be looked at in situ..  The floor, the cabinet, the tank and it's dimensions. If there is weight involved like for example a 250 litre tank you're talking about +/- 350 kilo load when setup.. This weight needs to be evenly spreaded over a larger surface, 20mm wide plastic shims is asking for trouble. It all depends on the floor and cabinet construction to see what's the best option to use..



Tell me about it! I'd love a 300+ in my room upstairs but I've already for 4 tanks in here, a 200kg super king size bed, and a 200kg granite computer desk top!!!

I've worked it out though, if I get an acro downstairs in the kitchen in the corner, I can have whatever I like up here - something tells me I won't be allowed, bloody women.


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## ian_m (15 Sep 2016)

BS....something or other specifies UK homes should be built to withstand 1.5kN/m2 which roughly equates to 150kg per meter squared.

However...

- This is the average for the whole room.
- Floor boards tend to spread a spot weight over quite a large area.
- Fish tanks tend to be placed against walls thus hopefully near joist ends so can take more weight per unit area.

So work out room area in m2 and multiply by 150Kg to get the maximum that you should really be allowed for the whole room. I think you will find you should be way under.


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## Adam Chambers (15 Sep 2016)

I would not use those figures above.

Look at it this way;

1 litre of water equates to 1kg in weight
So a 300 litre tank that is say 1200x500mm (length x Width) = 300kg over 0.6m2 of floor area. 

The engineer next me has calculated that it works out that a tank of the above size is 5kN/m2 or 3.3x over the quoted 1.5kN/m2 (That is the equivalent of 500kg over 1m2)

This is the same reason that at the bath location the joists would be doubled and even tripled sometimes to allow for the extra loading.

Edit: This would mean that an allowable tank size is just 100 litre per 0.6m2. Also just because it does stand up doesn't mean you should be doing it. There is of course a factor of safety for a reason. From an engineering view they would expect around 200 litre per 0.6m2 to be "safe" plus allowing for cabinet, filter, lights etc as well.


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## HiNtZ (15 Sep 2016)

ian_m said:


> BS....something or other specifies UK homes should be built to withstand 1.5kN/m2 which roughly equates to 150kg per meter squared.
> 
> However...
> 
> ...



Not all wood beamed houses go into the wall though - my house for example is poured concrete and rebar with metal tabs set into the walls that protrude 4-5 inches around every 4.5 feet all the way round and the floor frame rests on those, then the joists are fixed to the outer frame respectively.

It still won't go anywhere, the beams would bow ridiculously before the tabs ever bent or snapped, but still.....

Going by what you said with that equation my room can hold 5.4 tons - can't see it personally.


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## HiNtZ (15 Sep 2016)

Adam Chambers said:


> I would not use those figures above.
> 
> From an engineering view they would expect around 200 litre per 0.6m2 to be "safe" plus allowing for cabinet, filter, lights etc as well.



Which is about what an average bath holds, give or take 50 liters. Plus the bather averaging 60 kilos.


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## tadabis (15 Sep 2016)

Ok so continuing my question: I have laid down on a wooden floor a ~2.5 mm pad for wooden parquet, then placed cabinet, then laid 5 mm efoam pad with closed cells and placed aquarium on top. Without any leveling I have results like this shown in the photos. 2 pic side to side, 3 pic front to back. Is it very bad and needs leveling or it is not to bad and I can proceed futher without leveling and hope those 2 pads I laid will reduce the stress and levels things a bit.


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## Adam Chambers (15 Sep 2016)

HiNtZ said:


> Which is about what an average bath holds, give or take 50 liters. Plus the bather averaging 60 kilos.



Yes I am aware. I work in Structural Engineering. There are two differences with a bath. It's total floor area it covers is greater by twice the amount and the timber joists locally are generally double joists or oversized for the bath placement.

You cannot compare the two I am afraid. We have surveyed houses where aquariums have come through timber floors because people assumed they would be ok and so am advising that you should always have it checked prior to placement of an aquarium.

Never use a total room calculation either please people. Please work out your floor area. If you have feet on a cabinet you also have to work this out differently and there are building regulations that cover the spread of load affects.

Regards,

Adam


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## tadabis (15 Sep 2016)

OK calculations matter  but what about the levels in the pictures?


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## ian_m (16 Sep 2016)

tadabis said:


> OK calculations matter  but what about the levels in the pictures?


That looks fine, you will never level it 100%. Fill tank full of water and see how the water surface looks with respect to the tank edge (or if tank drops through the floor ).


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## tadabis (16 Sep 2016)

ian_m said:


> That looks fine, you will never level it 100%. Fill tank full of water and see how the water surface looks with respect to the tank edge (or if tank drops through the floor ).


 that was a good one ian  thank you so much for answer, propably tomorrow will try to fill the tank and check the levels again  btw my tank in on a 1st floor, so I am safe


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## Franks (17 Sep 2016)

Glad my tank is on ground floor which is also solid. 

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk


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## ralfred (6 Feb 2019)

Hi guys

Apologies to drag up an old thread, but just to confirm that I levelled a new tank at the weekend, using ply cut to size and the screwfix packers at the following link (still available, £13 for a massive bag).  https://www.screwfix.com/p/broadfix-glazing-packers-medium-100-x-1-6-x-28mm-225-pcs/33302

Worked well - waterline almost perfectly level - or as level as I'm going to get in a Victorian house!


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## ian_m (6 Feb 2019)

You also need to mark the floor with your cabinet/tank outline so that in the future if you accidentally move the cabinet you can place it back in exactly the same place. .


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