# Came this far



## Archer (9 Nov 2016)

Hello guys! So I want to share my journey to the hobby about my first planted tank. At the moment, I am waiting for the delivery of my aquarium items. How I came about the things I purchase boils to the issue of space. I live in Hong Kong and as you know, flats and rooms here are practically smaller compared to other places. So the biggest option for a tank that I was able to order is around 10gal.

Below is my setup:
*Kotobuki Glass Aquarium 61X20X30cm*





*Aquaworks tru-led 4 waterproof white led light*




*NAG Aqua music hang on style clear glass thermometer(for 6mm thickness tank)*




*Eden 511-100W
*




*Ada value set pack- Include: ADA PENAC P, ADA PENAC W, ADA BACTER100, ADA TOURMALINE BC and ADA CLEAR SUPER*




*Ada aqua soil amazonia powder type 9L*




*Api 5 in 1 test strips*





*
Seachem prime 500ml*




*Open ball shaped glass filter pipe set (12mm I think) generic china made*





Basically the items are expected to arrive around two weeks due to pre order of the tank. And I just found out that my ada powder soil is out of stock so I need to source out to other supplier.

I am in no hurry as this gives me ample time to further research in what I really wanted to achieve in my tank.

Questions like what kind of scape I'll do, what plants are good for beginners, do I start dry, what stones etc.

At the moment, my biggest issue is I want something like iwagumi style simple with some rocks and maybe a drift food with some carpeting. And maybe just tetras for the fauna.

I hope you guys can give me some suggestions and if you can provide some pictures I'll really appreciate it.


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## kadoxu (9 Nov 2016)

Can't see the pics...


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## Archer (9 Nov 2016)

Thank you @kadoxo for the feedback. I thought linking them with my google photos will be ok.


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## kadoxu (9 Nov 2016)




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## Archer (10 Nov 2016)

I am currently looking for inspiration on the aquascape I am planning to do. I hope you can share on the comments pictures of your favorites. Basically what I am looking for is low maintenance, simple layout, and would go with the items I have previously mentioned. CO2 is on the planning still as I want first to establish my tank.


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## ahjoe0digi (10 Nov 2016)

Since you are still planning on co2 , u can spend more time on hardscape, get the feel first,try different layout(remember to take picture) before rush to plEanting etc. I would recommend dry start method with hc as u r not require co2 during dry start. hc have the tiniest leaves and can give good sense of scale for your small tank. Hc a bit difficult for newbie, better study more on the plant before start planting. Another choice is hairgrass which is easier but I would recommend sp mini for shorter appearance. Since your are Chinese i would recommend these 微信 subscription account. 




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## ahjoe0digi (10 Nov 2016)

If u plan on iwagumi always buy a bit MORE STONE with DIFFERENT SIZE than required. Will give you more flexibility in trying different layout. When choosing stone pick stone with more nook and cranny. 微信里有很多石景样本。

By the way, I'm from Malaysia 

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## rebel (10 Nov 2016)

Loving that cat emblem on each of your photos!

Looking forward to updates..


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## Archer (10 Nov 2016)

@ahjoe0digi thank you for the feedback.Yes, I do plan to go the Co2 route as I want to go full blast with this hobby. But that needs to wait as I want to make sure I am satisfied with my scape first. I have seen lot of good pictures online but is clueless on what specific plants they use. Please bare with me as I am new to plants and gets lost with shortname. HC is the one with cuba right? Btw, I am a Filipino living here in HK, thanks anyways for the subscription suggestions!


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## Archer (10 Nov 2016)

@ahjoe0digi at this stage I am really not sure what stones to use. I am limited to what's available on the pet store I will be checking. Kindly suggest what type of stone to use.


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## Archer (10 Nov 2016)

@rebel thank you. I am excited for the delivery of the tank as it's an odd size tank. My major reason for choosing such is the width as I can only accomodate <22cm.


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## ahjoe0digi (10 Nov 2016)

Well,  it's up to you,  just choose stones with own character, with nook and cranny. Stone with smooth surface will give dull impression . Example










Pebbles or something alike are not suitable. 

As what you can see in pictures, choose rocks of different  size

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## Archer (10 Nov 2016)

@ahjoe0digi thank you for the samples. I believe I was able to personally see the 2nd and 3rd rocks but not sure of the first. Correct me if I am wrong but the 3rd is commonly called dragon stone? The 2nd, I have no idea what's it called. Well these rocks don't come in cheap as they are by the pound. As a newbie, I was surprise to learn rocks can be this expensive. 


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## Archer (10 Nov 2016)

I will try to look in the net and in the community for a sample inspiration and hopefully you guys can help me disect each part so I can make my first planted tank right.


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## ahjoe0digi (10 Nov 2016)

Yup, rock can be expensive unless you know where to pick from the wild. 
I spend around 400hkd for rocks in Malaysia for my 90*25*25 tank. However,  I will keep these stones even if they were not used in my scape. I can always use them in future. Sooner or later I will have a collection of stones and driftwood. 
Since you are new and may not want to spend too much on stone,  you may try different layout on sandbox before make any purchase. 

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## Archer (10 Nov 2016)

ahjoe0digi said:


> Yup, rock can be expensive unless you know where to pick from the wild.
> I spend around 400hkd for rocks in Malaysia for my 90*25*25 tank. However,  I will keep these stones even if they were not used in my scape. I can always use them in future. Sooner or later I will have a collection of stones and driftwood.
> Since you are new and may not want to spend too much on stone,  you may try different layout on sandbox before make any purchase.
> 
> Sent from my MX4 using Tapatalk



Thank you for sharing your estimated cost about rocks. I guess I can alot the same budget as yours for as long I am happy with it. Picking in the wild may not be an option here. I am still pinning sample tanks in youtube and pinterest and will let you know about my top inspiration. I am having difficulty at the moment to visualize how the tank is in actual as its quite long and shallow. I am trying to get the feel of scaling and realism on the videos and images I learn both here and other websites.




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## ahjoe0digi (10 Nov 2016)

Good luck and happy scaping

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## Archer (11 Nov 2016)

I believe I found my top inspiration for my project. There are tons of superb scape are out there and so love to see them in person given the opportunity.

The below inspiration were chosen due to the following reasons:
1. Doable
2. Budget

(Below images were grabbed from pinterest with their respective owner)




-Stephanus Mardianto




-pic.pimw.tw




-Shiva

I believe with my current experience level I can try do the basic of the scape mentioned. I also chose them because they use two substrate, drift wood and not much plants. 

Please help me disect the items of the last picture as that will be my base scape that I want to follow. Kindly suggest alternative rocks/plants to use.



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## ahjoe0digi (11 Nov 2016)

Which side you want?  Left side or right side?  It seems that the 3rd picture is a shallow long tank  with ratio 4:1 while your tank is 2:1. 
I may try to sketch a plan for you according to the picture. 





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## Archer (11 Nov 2016)

Thanks for the feedback. I never really know about the ratio thingy, but I think I got what you mean there. Thanks for that new info. If my tank is 2:1, will it not be possible to scale the the original one to fit in?

If not, then your suggested picture will be okay. Maybe make the main rock protrude more and make the secondary substrate a little wider. And modify the plant structure, maybe rearrange or choose the one that is smaller. Thank you so much for the help if you can sketch one out for me. I definitely would like the original picture, but given the ratio you mentioned, I am cool with your feedback!


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## Archer (11 Nov 2016)

ahjoe0digi said:


> Which side you want?  Left side or right side?  It seems that the 3rd picture is a shallow long tank  with ratio 4:1 while your tank is 2:1.
> I may try to sketch a plan for you according to the picture.
> 
> 
> ...



Btw filter will be set on the left so water will flow from left to right which makes your sample perfect


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## Archer (12 Nov 2016)

With the two substrate scape I am planning, may I request your feedback which would better? I prefer the whitish one, but it's just now I see on the label reef sand. Will there be any issue on that? Also, given my tank specs, will 1kg be okay? Btw, I have two bags of the brownish one.


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## ahjoe0digi (12 Nov 2016)

Archer said:


> With the two substrate scape I am planning, may I request your feedback which would better? I prefer the whitish one, but it's just now I see on the label reef sand. Will there be any issue on that? Also, given my tank specs, will 1kg be okay? Btw, I have two bags of the brownish one.
> 
> View attachment 92336
> 
> ...


Reef sand consist of calcium which mean it will increase your water hardness. Better choose river sand (silica) which is inert. I'm using ada sand. 

Can you post a picture of desired scape with 2:1 ratio? 



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## Archer (12 Nov 2016)

Thanks for info! Sorry, but can I use the brownish sand? 

Given the ratio of my tank, I am going your route. Below images will be the major inspiration:


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## Archer (13 Nov 2016)

I have previosly shopped for co2 set and basically the kit most shops offer here is below (at least for an entry level I guess? And found using the same brands)

















[CO2 regulator] Intense IT-88105 4mm(For straight bottle)
[CO2 bubble counter] Intense IT-80452 precision aluminum bubble counter check valve system (sucker) 4mm 
[CO2 diffuser] Intense IT-80420 ceramic refinement stick -40mmfor4mm 
[CO2 aluminum bottle] UP A-138 CO2 aluminum bottles (1L) 
[CO2 accessories] CO2 hose 9 feet 4mm

Can I ask for any feedback of this setup?






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## ahjoe0digi (13 Nov 2016)

If u can try to get a steel cylinder instead of aluminum, steel cylinder cheaper. Not sure about regulator, I'm using manual instead of solenoid. 


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## ahjoe0digi (15 Nov 2016)

How bout this??  



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## Archer (15 Nov 2016)

ahjoe0digi said:


> How bout this??
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my MX4 using Tapatalk



That is a lovely scape! However, i would prefer using less stones


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## Archer (17 Nov 2016)

Tried testing my eden 511 filter with 100w heater.





I got a little bit concern as it gets so much bubbles and noise. Checked all connections and seal, no issue.

I just let it flow and good thing it's all smooth and quite now.

Question: 
I can only position the filter beside the tank, will there be any issue if I cut the hose short?

I would like to make thing neat and not look like clutter as I am not able to hide the hose.

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## kadoxu (17 Nov 2016)

Yes, you can cut the hose.


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## Archer (17 Nov 2016)

Thanks @kadoxu! This is the first time to use a canister filter, so just a bit cautious.


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## ahjoe0digi (17 Nov 2016)

During winter time tab water may become supersaturated  with dissolved air.  Fill new tab water in a bucket and see is there any tiny bubbles appear after you let the water settle a while. Those tiny bubbles are harmful to your fish. 

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## ahjoe0digi (17 Nov 2016)

This one is my tank,  I will show detail picture of left side. 












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## Archer (17 Nov 2016)

Wow, thanks for sharing. I'm not yet familiar with the plants, but can you name the one you have used?


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## ahjoe0digi (17 Nov 2016)

This is how individual rocks look like. There are many tiny stones along the edge of sand to give sense of scale. 
Remember to raise your rock a bit compare with your ideal arrangement to compensate for plant growth. 








This only my rough estimation. not all rocks are same in size and shape.  It is up to you to create your own work.  Artist sense can be learned if u are like me who are not born artist.  Just remember " golden ratio ".

Hope can help. 

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## Archer (17 Nov 2016)

I appreciate your help in the sketches. This gives me a better understanding of the rocks that I need to purchase. At least I am getting a better and clearer view of what my tank would look like.


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## ahjoe0digi (17 Nov 2016)

Lymnophila sp Vietnam 
Like to grow into bush and give out a lot of branch and invade larger area. However bottom part will melt if co2 supply stop suddenly for few days to a week. 





Staurogyne repens 
Grow compact and bushy,  will also give out branch from side easily and invade larger area. Grow slow relatively





Java moss,  heard will do well in lower temperature of 24 degree,  my tank is 28/29. Will attach readily to anything it come to contact with. 





Dwarf hairgrass, eleocharis parvula , not the shortest version but be careful some seller will confused themselves and give you acicularis which is longer.  Emersed form will have longer and rigid leaves. Emersed form will finally melt away. 





Hydrocotyle tripartita 
Very fast growing plants. Normally will stay low unless not enough light.  Currently facing Diatom outbreak which is common in new tank .





Cryptocorin Wendii? I not really know how to differentiate crypt. After planting just leave it there and don't disturb it or they will die if moving too much or take more time to settle in. 





Another crypt.  Unable to identify.  Green leaves when purchase and after some times all leaves turn dark . It's size range from 6cm tall to 15cm in my tank. Luckily manage to keep them small. 





Ludwigia repens 
Very hardy plant. Relatively slow grower compare with rotala. I always keep it short. 





Mysterious plant.  




Green dust algae. 



Mysterious algae form a nice Marimo like carpet on my main stone.  Just kill most with h2o2 but purposely left some to grow back a bit. 



Mysterious algae on Java moss. 




Glossostigma.  Grow or testing.  Light may not enough and tend to grow tall. 




Surviving hc Cuba not doing well under my light condition. It just survive, but not thriving and grow slow.  Need to up my light intensity at least 40 %




7 Harlequin rasbora 



Male betta



One and only shrimp,  plan to get more. 

Many very tiny snail which look like baby ramshorn snail, which stay around 3mm wide. They only come out at night. 

Still adjusting fertiliser.  It seems that I need to add extra iron. Some of my plants such as glosso and hydrocotyle show some white color on leaves


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## Archer (21 Nov 2016)

I got a call from the delivery of my aquarium order last Saturday. Upon seeing the box of the tank I got a little worried as it's so enormous! As a first time to order an aquarium and be delivered, I just thought to myself maybe it's just the styro fillings to make sure it won't get damage on transit. To my surprise, it really was the size of the box. Its like triple the size of my order with glass going almost an inch in thickness. Good thing the delivery guy van has not left yet and explained that it's a wrong order. And now I am again to wait to their Wednesday delivery. Got the other stuff I order though.


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## Archer (25 Nov 2016)

Did my shopping yesterday. Bought 9L ada powder aquasoil (lucky me last one!), ada powersand S, some plants (eliochair acicularis mini, hemianthus callitrichoides, littorella uniflora) and some fish food. Also got my co2 kit (it-88206 solenoid with 1L). 
Just a question on the solenoid as I was not able to fully see the process when the shop owner set it up (not to mention the language barrier) can you please help me explain the basic process of installation of the solenoid? 



From atomizer to bubble counter, I get it. But from bubble counter to solenoid, I am a little bit concern how it was installed. Just don't want to damage it due to ignorance. Do I just rotate it while pulling? I might need to shorten the tube to fit the length I need as it just sit beside the tank which is more or less a feet away. Thanks guys!


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## Archer (25 Nov 2016)

Tried doing my hardscape today and boy it really is something from just watching it in youtube and doing it in person.





Kindly give your advise and how to further enhance it. I am willing to totally revamp it given the better outcome.


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## GotCrabs (25 Nov 2016)

I actually think that this is a great set up, do not touch or change anything, just put your substrate in and plant, don't move anything at all, really like it.


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## Archer (25 Nov 2016)

GotCrabs said:


> I actually think that this is a great set up, do not touch or change anything, just put your substrate in and plant, don't move anything at all, really like it.



Thank you! Basically the main rock and the second rock are there, so I am just trying to play with the rock on the far right and the small ones. 

I really want to use two substrate but still thinking if it will all be cohesive. Would like to hear your two cents.


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## GotCrabs (25 Nov 2016)

I'd really like to see this kept as is in regards to the positioning of the rock, add 1 substrate, plant 'Monte Carlo', would look great once all filled in and looking lush and green, add some shrimp, done.


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## ahjoe0digi (26 Nov 2016)

Do you have photo shoot from front??  Your scape is nice  

Just remember to consider the way plants grow in later. 


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## Archer (26 Nov 2016)

ahjoe0digi said:


> Do you have photo shoot from front??  Your scape is nice
> 
> Just remember to consider the way plants grow in later.
> 
> ...



I did some rescape with the help of wifey. Expain to her the flow of water and stuff and we came with this.




I'm loving it and it's an idea shared by my wife. 


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## Archer (26 Nov 2016)

ahjoe0digi said:


> Do you have photo shoot from front??  Your scape is nice
> 
> Just remember to consider the way plants grow in later.
> 
> ...



I think I will leave the idea of two substrate for now. All the plants I chose seem to be for advance, hopefully I can pull it through.


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## alto (26 Nov 2016)

really like the scape from you & your wife
 - it's great when your partner can be involved too


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## Archer (26 Nov 2016)

alto said:


> really like the scape from you & your wife
> - it's great when your partner can be involved too



True. It's always feel good to know that she supports this hobby I am into especially now that I am going full blast will the equipment and stuff.


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## GotCrabs (27 Nov 2016)

I think some easy care plants like 'Monte Carlo' and Hygro 'japan' would be really nice in this set up, again great work with the arrangement of stones, wouldn't change it.


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## Archer (27 Nov 2016)

Thank you for the suggested plants, however I already purchased plants during my shopping. Will definitely consider them in the future.

This is my initial plan for the plants. I only got an idea of this from youtube videos and websites but haven't seen them in actual tanks how they really flourish. Please advise how to make it better using the three plants.

I have them in cultured cups.
2-littorella uniflora
2-hemianthus callitrichoides
1-eliochair acicularis mini


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## GotCrabs (27 Nov 2016)

Nothing wrong with the selection of plants I don't think, I'm not real educated with these mind you, but what you have selected would really suit the lay out, done well, are you going to run CO2? Might be worth seriously looking into to get the best out of this tank with those plants, also strong lighting.

Hit @rebel and @Dantrasy up, both are pretty switched on.


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## ahjoe0digi (27 Nov 2016)

He already bought co2 system. 
Hairgrass kind of invasive and will gradually replace hc.  But I never have the chance to try out these two in person and deal with the growth pattern of both together.  

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## Archer (27 Nov 2016)

I have the below kit ready :

UP A-138 CO2 CYLINDER 1L
INTENSE Precision CO2 atomizer
INTENSE precision aluminum mechanical stop valve bubble counter
Intense straight cylindrical bottle with a pressure reducer valve IT-88206



 

 

 

 
Can you please advise the duration per day on how will I set the timer and bps for the Co2 ?(With the plants and my tank (61x20x30cm).

As for the lighting, I have AQUAWORKS TRU-LED 4 WATERPROOF WHITE LED LIGHT 58cm. 

-Size(approx.): 6 x 58cm(L)
-Voltage: 24V
-Waterproof
-Compact design
-Energy saving
-Suitable for 60-70cm freshwater or saltwater aquarium



 

I do not really have an idea if I can categorized this as strong lighting, but it does pretty light up the tank well enough.


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## Archer (27 Nov 2016)

ahjoe0digi said:


> He already bought co2 system.
> Hairgrass kind of invasive and will gradually replace hc.  But I never have the chance to try out these two in person and deal with the growth pattern of both together.
> 
> Sent from my MX4 using Tapatalk



I thought so as well, that is why I try to put them near the wall and try to make the stones as border.


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## ahjoe0digi (27 Nov 2016)

The most accurate way is using par  meter to measure the light. You can try to ask lfs. If they don't have par  meter another way is to use lux meter installed in your smartphone which will give relatively accurate result. 
Example,  my tank is using led with bulb similar to yours. It is 28watt and when I measure it with lux meter from 30 CM away (bottom of my tank ) it yield 4500 lux, with this light i can only barely keep my hc alive and glosso crawling across substrates. 
I tested it with Ada led light it gives 8000-9000 Lux reading. 

Maybe you can try it out?  At least it is free and can give figure as reference. 

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## Archer (27 Nov 2016)

ahjoe0digi said:


> The most accurate way is using par  meter to measure the light. You can try to ask lfs. If they don't have par  meter another way is to use lux meter installed in your smartphone which will give relatively accurate result.
> Example,  my tank is using led with bulb similar to yours. It is 28watt and when I measure it with lux meter from 30 CM away (bottom of my tank ) it yield 4500 lux, with this light i can only barely keep my hc alive and glosso crawling across substrates.
> I tested it with Ada led light it gives 8000-9000 Lux reading.
> 
> ...



Wow, thanks for the info about lighting! Never really have any idea bout this. Tried downloading some apps in my phone and will definitely test it later when i come home from work. Hopefully I can finalized my hardscape and start planting later. 

I am  ready to fail with the plants given my current experience and knowledge, but with people in the forum giving help, I am able to minimize and learn my lesson in advance.


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## ahjoe0digi (27 Nov 2016)

Archer said:


> Wow, thanks for the info about lighting! Never really have any idea bout this. Tried downloading some apps in my phone and will definitely test it later when i come home from work. Hopefully I can finalized my hardscape and start planting later.
> 
> I am  ready to fail with the plants given my current experience and knowledge, but with people in the forum giving help, I am able to minimize and learn my lesson in advance.


If I can get my hands on par meter and various lighting system.  I might create a comparison chart. 

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## rebel (27 Nov 2016)

Really liking your plans. The scape looks very impressive for your first time!

Go forth and enjoy!


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## Archer (28 Nov 2016)

rebel said:


> Really liking your plans. The scape looks very impressive for your first time!
> 
> Go forth and enjoy!



Thank you. It's not my first time to get a pet fish but it's just now that I came to realize all the technicalities and stuff about this hobby. The more reading, watching videos and checking forums made me gain a different perspective about it. I hope I can really pull this off as I love gardening and fishes and if the plants do well, it will be a two birds and one stone hit!


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## ahjoe0digi (28 Nov 2016)

Archer said:


> Thank you. It's not my first time to get a pet fish but it's just now that I came to realize all the technicalities and stuff about this hobby. The more reading, watching videos and checking forums made me gain a different perspective about it. I hope I can really pull this off as I love gardening and fishes and if the plants do well, it will be a two birds and one stone hit!


Yup,  same to me,  I rather watch my tank and fish for hours. You have a good start, hope you can keep them well. 
Hint: algae algae algae
Ferts ferts ferts 
Water change
High quality food etc

Welcome to hell of algae(just kidding)   

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## Archer (28 Nov 2016)

ahjoe0digi said:


> Yup,  same to me,  I rather watch my tank and fish for hours. You have a good start, hope you can keep them well.
> Hint: algae algae algae
> Ferts ferts ferts
> Water change
> ...



Haha true on the algae. I have downloaded the tropica app to follow the 90 day regime. 

Fish food, already bought some japan made fish food. Hopefully i choose to best one.

About ferts, i am really still in the shady part of this topic. I thought when i got the co2 kit i am all covered but upon reading more, i think its becoming a necessity for maintenance. Correct me if im wrong


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## ahjoe0digi (28 Nov 2016)

Plant requirement 
Energy: light
Substances for growth and function: 
1.macro such as nitrate potassium phosphate carbon dioxide 
2. Micro such as calcium magnesium boron etc
*plant uptake of ferts may from water column or substrate. 

Environment and waterflow:
Water hardness, pH, temperature transportation of substances by waterflow 

These issues will significantly effect your successes of keeping plants thriving. 

Same as you I though co2 and bright light should be enough. I only dose micro. As a consequence in my first scape my plants suffer from serious nitrogen deficiency. My stem plants like macandra never survive 2nd trim and leaves grow smaller and smaller. Whenever I dose micro it seems that just algae benefit from it. I got staghorn algae,  thread algae,  fuzz algae on my plants.  And surviving plants just grow slow. Hairgrass spreading but slow.  (healthy plants normally won't have algae) 

Just ask us if u got any problems 

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## Archer (28 Nov 2016)

ahjoe0digi said:


> Plant requirement
> Energy: light
> Substances for growth and function:
> 1.macro such as nitrate potassium phosphate carbon dioxide
> ...




Now this is really becoming technical and I like it. I should address the water parameter first. I am still not that familiar with my water spec as I am still about to flood my tank. Will share the result of my strip test and hopefully you can provide me some insight.


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## GotCrabs (28 Nov 2016)

Don't rely on strip test readings, I feel and have read that they aren't always correct, should grab a test kit mate.


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## Archer (30 Nov 2016)

Late post for my hardscape in the tank




 


 

I am to get a the latest photo of my tank later. I have already planted and did some last minute change on the plant's location. Haven't tested any water parameters yet. Just tried to set it up and have it working as a whole. Filter, lily pipes, CO2, light and heater. Timer is still to be set.

To share my experience, doing the hardscape is really hard and time consuming. Watching videos in youtube on how it's done seems so easy. But when you really do it actual, I did realize that it's really hard-scape ^ ^. As I am trying to follow an iwagumi style, every little detail I take into consideration. After finalizing my hardscape and got the look I want, I flooded it using the smallest tubing (I think the one use for air stone) to minimize disturbing the substrate.Using that tubing really took some time. 

After getting almost 1/3 of water in the tank, I tried planting. First with the HC, and I must say that this plant is the real challenge.So delicate, easily floats and gets a lot of dirt in the tank due to fallen leaves. They are beautiful which is true but they come with a price. True effort and a lot of taking care of.

Then I change place the littorella uniflora with the eliochair acicularis mini as per my original plan. For the littorella uniflora, the challenge is trying to shred it to smaller parts. But planting is manageable. Same goes with eliochair acicularis mini.

I am satisfied with my Eden 511 filter with integrated 100W heater. Very quite and flow is nice. Priming is done in a few minutes. Consume much of my time getting tube settled so as not to look cluttered as this is positioned beside my tank.

As for the CO2, I got worried a bit because I thought the adjustment in the solenoid is damage. But thankfully, after some tinkering I was able to take control and get about 1 bubble per 3 -4 seconds. Not sure if this is the optimal setting but I need to get this check first. Got a bit of challenge in positioning the atomizer. I will post next on this to ask your feedback if my position/location of it is optima.

Then goes the lighting and cleaning the outside of the tank's glass.


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## CooKieS (30 Nov 2016)

Hi,

Be aware that the position of your stones in the middle and the right is a bit too flat, they will eventually become covered by your carpeting plants.


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## Archer (30 Nov 2016)

CooKieS said:


> Hi,
> 
> Be aware that the position of your stones in the middle and the right is a bit too flat, they will eventually become covered by your carpeting plants.



Yes, thank you for noticing. I did some retouch on the stones on my planting but if they will get covered eventually, I would not mind as I am trying to get the feeling and experience of something growing and flourishing. For now, I am satisfied to getting it work and seeing it in actual what I have learned from the forum and videos rather than getting it all perfect in theory.


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## ahjoe0digi (30 Nov 2016)

Archer said:


> Yes, thank you for noticing. I did some retouch on the stones on my planting but if they will get covered eventually, I would not mind as I am trying to get the feeling and experience of something growing and flourishing. For now, I am satisfied to getting it work and seeing it in actual what I have learned from the forum and videos rather than getting it all perfect in theory.


Theory and then practical , both are important. Really hope that your scape will fill in nicely 

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## Archer (30 Nov 2016)

ahjoe0digi said:


> Theory and then practical , both are important. Really hope that your scape will fill in nicely
> 
> Sent from my MX4 using Tapatalk



Thank you. Hopefully I can show you a good example on what I learned from this group.


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## Archer (30 Nov 2016)

So here's the latest update on my tank. Water still a little bit murky?

Not sure if the co2 atomizer is in an optimal position but prefer it to be a little hidden.


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## Archer (3 Dec 2016)

Just an update on my tank.

Did a 50% water change last December 01 on my tank. Got to see some tiny bubbles coming out of the HC, hopefully it's a good sign even though their roots aren't fully establish yet on the substrate.

I've also introduce already my neon tetras on the tank as my temporary bowl seems not keep them all good. All seems active and been monitoring them for any issue with their new habitat.

Got to shopped yesterday as well for some dried bloodworm, glass scraper, suckers and ADA green brighty step 1. Tried searching for fertilizers and per recommendations that I need ferts for my plants as CO2 will not be enough to keep them thriving, I ended up going the ADA route.







I thought that since I started my substrate and power sand as ADA, might as well do it all the way. Another pointer that made me decide on this is the simplicity of explanation as a starting aquarium, I just need to push 1 or 2 application daily for the next three months. I believe this is not the all in one solution ferts and there are other brands that might be more cheaper and effective, but I guess it will be a good start on my dosing. Please do recommend some that you like and currently using so I can check further.





I see my tetras seems thin or they are still small not sure as I do not have information how old they are. It's for this reason that I bought different fish foods and the dried bloodworms to get variety on their diet.





I also bought five cherry shrimps and four nerita snall (zebra). Basically my reason behind them is their function to get any algae that might start and finish up leftover fish food. I am still trying to get the right amount of fish food as at the moment I have four different type of them. Will try to come up with schedules as well when to give what.

I think I got too many snails (not sure please correct me if I am wrong), but only got to buy them in a plastic of four yesterday. I was able to see maybe four to five kinds of snail, but not sure what they are and not been able to get photos (shops seems to forbid taking photography with their products). I just specifically looked for this zebra which I am certain due to their color. 

Since I am trying to maintain a clean glass look, I indulge for this hanging glass tube with barrel airstone for my airpump. Will try to set it up to work during the night to disperse excess CO2 and increase water agitation.


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## Archer (5 Dec 2016)

Latest update on my tank. Did a 30% water change. 


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## ahjoe0digi (5 Dec 2016)

Err,  is it fully cycled?? If no than you may expect something happens to your fish and shrimp.  It normally take weeks to fully cycle a tank.  Fully cycle means you cultivate enough beneficial bacteria in substrate and filter to remove any harmful waste present in water. 
Actually fertiliser in Ada will not be enough,  they just serve as kick start.  The best part about Ada is that it can serve as nutrient and pH buffer and maintain water quality if I remember it right. 

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## ahjoe0digi (5 Dec 2016)

You can get fertiliser from lab supplier.  
KNO3, K2SO4, and KH2PO4
So far I dose kno3 and flourish comprehensive.
KNO3 
Mix kno3 and water until no more kno3 able to dissolve ( beware the process make the solution cool,  keep it at 25 degree Celsius) mix one part of kno3 solution with two part of water. Dose 2ml of final solution should raise 4ppm of nitrate and 2.5 ppm of potassium.

K2SO4
Mix k2so4 in water until no more salt can dissolve. Keep temperature at 25 degree Celsius. Mix one part of solution to one part of water. 4ml of final solution will raise potassium level by 2.8ppm.

KH2PO4
At 25 degree mix kh2po4 with water until no more can be dissolved. Mix one part of solution with four parts of water. 1ml of final solution should raise phosphate by 1ppm and 0.38ppm of potassium.

I use syringe for accurate measurements. I use the above method because I do not have good weight balance. Since I know the solubility of those salt I just do some calculations to bypass the need of balance scale. I believe you have thermometer? 

I dose 1ml of comprehensive.

I dose 3 times of everything  perweek and do 50% water change. 
I only dose roughly half of EI, you can always adjust your dosage accordingly. 

Hope can help








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## Archer (10 Dec 2016)

ahjoe0digi said:


> Err,  is it fully cycled?? If no than you may expect something happens to your fish and shrimp.  It normally take weeks to fully cycle a tank.  Fully cycle means you cultivate enough beneficial bacteria in substrate and filter to remove any harmful waste present in water.
> Actually fertiliser in Ada will not be enough,  they just serve as kick start.  The best part about Ada is that it can serve as nutrient and pH buffer and maintain water quality if I remember it right.
> 
> Sent from my MX4 using Tapatalk



Sorry for the late reply, been quite busy at work for the past days. I believe it's not fully cycled yet, however at the situation I have no choice but to introduce the fish already. It became a nitrogen cycle with fish. So far no issue is seen on fish or shrimp. All seems happy and active. However, just today my last nerita snail died. I think I bought a bad batch as they were in plastic and seems inactive when I brought them home. I think I will stick with the fish and shrimp.


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## Archer (10 Dec 2016)

ahjoe0digi said:


> You can get fertiliser from lab supplier.
> KNO3, K2SO4, and KH2PO4
> So far I dose kno3 and flourish comprehensive.
> KNO3
> ...



I don't think it's an option to me. Tried searching online for the stuff and seems they are highly prohibited and regulated in Hong Kong. Not sure, but I think they can be use to make explosives (correct me if I am wrong). But thanks for the information!

By the way, I kept on reading El dosing, what does El means?


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## Archer (10 Dec 2016)

CO2 incident....

So this afternoon around 1PM HKT, while I am sleeping from a nights work my wife woke me up because of the sound coming from the CO2 tank. I immediately woke up and heard a strong leaking sound coming from the regulator and CO2 cylinder. I immediately unplugged the solenoid and close the main valve of the cylinder. The leaking sound stopped. So I tried to hand tighten again the regulator/solenoid in the cylinder but still leaking is happening. 

So I decided to disassemble the regulator/solenoid with the cylinder to check further. Saw a blue pressure gasket inside which seems a little bit deformed but I believe is still usable. I tried to put it back together and this time use a vise grip to further tighten it. Then tried plugging in and adjusting the pressure and seems leaking sound stopped and pressure back to normal.

I tried making bubble with dishwasher to test any leak between the regulator/solenoid and cylinder. No movement in the bubbles and seems pretty airtight. Then tried checking leak between the hose and the connector in the regulator/solenoid, again seems normal and airtight.



 



 


 

 



 

Can someone please advise if I did the right leak checking?

Also, for this type of regulator/solenoid is it only for hand tightening? (I can't remember how it was put together in the shop)

Also, is there any point of concern I need to be aware about as leak seems to stop but I am not fully confident with it anymore.

Please also advise how to read the dials as it seems to not move much and I am not really sure what the numbers means. 

Thanks everyone.


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## sgdiscus (11 Dec 2016)

Archer said:


> CO2 incident....
> 
> So this afternoon around 1PM HKT, while I am sleeping from a nights work my wife woke me up because of the sound coming from the CO2 tank. I immediately woke up and heard a strong leaking sound coming from the regulator and CO2 cylinder. I immediately unplugged the solenoid and close the main valve of the cylinder. The leaking sound stopped. So I tried to hand tighten again the regulator/solenoid in the cylinder but still leaking is happening.
> 
> ...


 Hi, I have the same solenoid as yours.

It is hand tightened. And yes you have done the right checks. 

The most common leak is from the 'No 2' location that you highlighted.

The numbers on the dial is Pressure the the Co2 tank is exerting on the solenoid. It essentially measures the remaining pressure in your CO2 tank. 

The pressure is measured in 'Bar'. So there is 3 Bar in your CO2 tank.


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## Archer (11 Dec 2016)

sgdiscus said:


> Hi, I have the same solenoid as yours.
> 
> It is hand tightened. And yes you have done the right checks.
> 
> ...







Thanks for sharing! Tried to do another leak test this morning on both points and seems all good and airtight.

So it's hand tighten, no wonder there's no scratch before. But I don't feel confident about it anymore. Got worried like if no one is home or it's just my wife.. what could have happen. The leak sound is kinda loud and felt the air or co2 when I hold the cylinder during leak. 





I tried to dial in the valve as little as almost on off now. Is that ok?

Just bought the co2 kit last November 24 and it's less than a month in use. It's hook up with a timer working less than 8 hours each day. Is this incident something normal? This is my first time to use co2 and I am just worried of any safety issue that might occur.

Kindly give me tips and advise to aliviate this worry I have.



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## sgdiscus (11 Dec 2016)

Are you using an inline CO2 reactor? To be honest, I have had leak before BUT the reason is because my tubing i used were old and inflexible. In addition, I was using an inline CO2 reactor which needed about 2 bar to push the co2 gas through. So as a result the leak happened at where I connected the tubing. I changed the tubing to a black high pressure tubing. The leak stopped.

So far I have changed the CO2 cylinder twice. Both times hand tigthened. I have also confirmed this with my LFS. 

When you said you felt the leak.. can you try to remember whether the leak stopped because you readjusted the No2 location or because you tightened the solenoid to the cylinder? 

I went to check mine. It is still tight and requires some strength from me to loosen it. This confirms that the thread design of the regulator is working as intended. 

If yours feel loose after a period of operations... then the thread could be worn. Bring it back to the dealer and have it check.


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## Archer (11 Dec 2016)

sgdiscus said:


> Are you using an inline CO2 reactor? To be honest, I have had leak before BUT the reason is because my tubing i used were old and inflexible. In addition, I was using an inline CO2 reactor which needed about 2 bar to push the co2 gas through. So as a result the leak happened at where I connected the tubing. I changed the tubing to a black high pressure tubing. The leak stopped.
> 
> So far I have changed the CO2 cylinder twice. Both times hand tigthened. I have also confirmed this with my LFS.
> 
> ...





Sorry but is the below setup categorized as inline co2 reactor? I am not sure which type is mine as I only bought the kit which is mostly sold here in Hong Kong. As for the tubing, I guess it's all good as it's not the same tubing I previously bought which is much softer for my airpump. The tubing included in the co2 kit seems to be harder.



 

I am totally sure that the leak came from the connection between solenoid and cylinder. I just shut the main valve of the cylinder and leak stopped. Upon doing hand tightening, leak still shows. That is why I tried to check the blue gasket and then re-position it and use a vice grip to tighten it. That's when leak stopped.

By the way, how to determine if the cylinder is all empty? And what is the proper procedure in removing and putting the solenoid back. 

I have tried searching the internet but can't find any document nor video about this solenoid. I just want to make sure I am doing the proper thing.


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## sgdiscus (11 Dec 2016)

Ah I see. You are using a CO2 atomiser.

When the pressure is low (ie the reading is down to 1 or 2 bar in the yellow range), you will notice that the rate of bubbles going into your bubble counter starts to slow down. 

It is also possible for you not to get any bubbles even though the reading is still at 1 or 2 bar and not completely zero. A possible explanation for this is due to the fact that the atomiser you are using require a minimum operating pressure for the co2 to be forced out and there is insufficient pressure in the co2 cylinder to do this.

In this case, it is time to change the co2 cylinder. For this solenoid, the procedure is as follows:

1. Closed the valve at the co2 cylinder.
2. Switched off the power to the solenoid.
3. Open the 'fine tuning valve' at the solenoid itself. I know you have already adjusted the position to get the bubble per second count. The reason you want to open the valve bigger is to make sure you release all the co2 still trap in the solenoid. This is a safety feature of this solenoid. By right, if there is still co2 trap, you should not be able to unscrew the solenoid from the cylinder. 
4. Next unscrew the solenoid from the cylinder.

Do note that there will be residual pressure (ie remnant co2) inside your cylinder. You can release all the co2 if you want but always close back the valve as you do not want humidity or water to get inside your co2 tank and cause corrosion. Some people like to release all the pressure just to check that their cylinder is completely empty before topping up.  

I have been thinking about the leak you are experiencing. This product is quite well built (ps: I am not related in any way to the product). One possibility is that the gasket did not have a good seal when the solenoid was screwed onto the cylinder and overtime it loosened the solenoid resulting in a leak.

Another possibility is that the safety feature that I mentioned was faulty which could result in a leak. 

In the long run, I don't think you need to use a tool to tighten the solenoid to the cylinder because that is not how this solenoid work. So if it is possible, I would recommend that you bring it back to the shop and get it check. At least compare your solenoid to a new one. I think the gasket can also be replaced.


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## Archer (12 Dec 2016)

sgdiscus said:


> Ah I see. You are using a CO2 atomiser.
> 
> When the pressure is low (ie the reading is down to 1 or 2 bar in the yellow range), you will notice that the rate of bubbles going into your bubble counter starts to slow down.
> 
> ...



Thank you for keeping up with my noob questions. I am learning more with this stuff.

1. If pressure is below the atomizer reqt and cyclinder is still not empty will a cheap glass diffuser be okay to temporarily empty the remaining co2? Or it won't make any difference?

2. When the co2 kit is all setup, how much do you move the main valve of the cylinder? Is it okay to fully open it?

3. Thank you for explaining the process of removing. However, if I got the cylinder top up and I am to put it back on, do i need to make the fine tuning valve open? (Main cyclinder valve still close).

I am with you with the gasket. I might buy a new one. For now i don't want to touch it and let it just work its way till it's empty.

I might need to buy a whole new kit (worse case scenario) in a different shop as I felt I got ripoff on the store I bought it with. A little back story, during the time I am still canvassing I specifically mentioned that I want the kit they have on display. But when the time I am to purchase they assembled the kit with a different diffuser and bubble counter. Which I said is not the deal for the price I originally ask. Old business tactics I guess they mark up a different price with the items I want and now I spent more than I thought I can save.


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## sgdiscus (12 Dec 2016)

Archer said:


> 1. If pressure is below the atomizer reqt and cyclinder is still not empty will a cheap glass diffuser be okay to temporarily empty the remaining co2? Or it won't make any difference?



No. It will make a very small difference to stretch your CO2 a bit more... How much more? Well, that will have to depend on the amount of CO2 you need to reach the required ppm.  But don't take my word for it. You can try. 



Archer said:


> 2. When the co2 kit is all setup, how much do you move the main valve of the cylinder? Is it okay to fully open it?



It does not matter whether is it half open or fully open. The solenoid is designed to handle the pressure from the CO2 cylinder. I usually leave mine fully open. I have not noticed that half close or open just enough for the solenoid to work make any difference to the usage of the co2 cylinder. After all the amount of co2 is controlled by the needle valve of the solenoid.



Archer said:


> 3. Thank you for explaining the process of removing. However, if I got the cylinder top up and I am to put it back on, do i need to make the fine tuning valve open? (Main cyclinder valve still close).



Good question. I forgot to mention that usually I put it to 'CLOSE' position after top up and slowly adjust from there. You can try to save a step by not re-adjusting the needle valve position especially since you would have taken some trouble to adjust the co2 level to one that suits your tank. 

What you can is to be abit more patient as your co2 cylinder is running out. For example, as you observe that even as your turn your CO2 cylinder to the full OPEN position, you are not getting sufficient pressure for your CO2 solenoid to work. In this case, you can accept that you will waste abit of CO2. At this stage, you can then CLOSE your CO2 cylinder but continue to let the residual CO2 in your solenoid to run out without touching the needle valve on your solenoid. Once there are no more bubbles entering your bubble counter, you know there is no more co2 in the solenoid and at this stage you can unscrew the solenoid from the CO2 cylinder. The advantage is that you don't fiddle with the needle valve as you already set it to the opening you want. The disadvantage is that you waste some CO2. Personally, I don't find the remaining CO2 sufficient anyway and hence I rather not waste time again adjusting my needle valve.

I hope that helps.



Archer said:


> I might need to buy a whole new kit (worse case scenario) in a different shop as I felt I got ripoff on the store I bought it with. A little back story, during the time I am still canvassing I specifically mentioned that I want the kit they have on display. But when the time I am to purchase they assembled the kit with a different diffuser and bubble counter. Which I said is not the deal for the price I originally ask. Old business tactics I guess they mark up a different price with the items I want and now I spent more than I thought I can save.



yikes... sorry to hear that. What I don't understand is why would the shop do that and lose a potential long term customer.


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## Archer (12 Dec 2016)

sgdiscus said:


> No. It will make a very small difference to stretch your CO2 a bit more... How much more? Well, that will have to depend on the amount of CO2 you need to reach the required ppm.  But don't take my word for it. You can try.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Thank you for all the information. I am getting much more confident now with this co2 stuff.

I need to bring back the solenoid and cylinder tomorrow back and see if I can arrange for a repair or exchange. I am just trying to look my tank and there hear a faint screeching sound coming out of the cylinder and solenoid again!!!

Seems I am out luck with this first kit I bought. I hope the shop can redeem themselves in making me buy another item there. 

Worse case scenario I will need to buy a new kit. Given all this mishaps, its not making me get discourage as though quite expensive the learnings I get are all invaluable.


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## sgdiscus (12 Dec 2016)

Archer said:


> Thank you for all the information. I am getting much more confident now with this co2 stuff.
> 
> I need to bring back the solenoid and cylinder tomorrow back and see if I can arrange for a repair or exchange. I am just trying to look my tank and there hear a faint screeching sound coming out of the cylinder and solenoid again!!!
> 
> ...


Hmmm.. try to apply the soap solution so that you can confirm the location of the leak. 

If it is really the connection between the solenoid and the cylinder... then the gasket is the likely culprit. 

A good solenoid will last many years. My first solenoid (ANS) lasted more than 5 years. The current Intense solenoid that I am using is my second solenoid ever. So these kits can last a while. Co2 cylinders can last even longer. 

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## Archer (12 Dec 2016)

sgdiscus said:


> Hmmm.. try to apply the soap solution so that you can confirm the location of the leak.
> 
> If it is really the connection between the solenoid and the cylinder... then the gasket is the likely culprit.
> 
> ...



Fingers crossed that it's really just the blue gasket. 

I have set it aside already and close the main valve. When trying to open it, I can hear the release of gas. Putting my finger around the joint of solenoid and cylinder also confirms this. 

I don't want to tinker it anymore as it's a confirm leak. I hope the scratch in the solenoid ring will not be an issue if I return it tomorrow. I don't want to keep my hopes high as language barrier will be the my first problem when I explain it.


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## Archer (13 Dec 2016)

Afternoon today when I brought back the solenoid and cylinder to the shop. Good thing the owner still remembers me and I immediately told her that it's leaking.

Without saying much she just disassembled and saw the blue gasket almost torn apart!





She replaced it and seems the leak stopped. Haven't checked it yet with with soap test but I believe the gasket replacement resolves this leak.





I am now thinking, why the gasket already got into this state. Is this something normal? I thought this should be replace during cylinder replinishment. 

(Just saw in the label that maintenance is every 12months)


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## imak (13 Dec 2016)

It seems you overtightened it.


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## sgdiscus (13 Dec 2016)

Archer said:


> Afternoon today when I brought back the solenoid and cylinder to the shop. Good thing the owner still remembers me and I immediately told her that it's leaking.
> 
> Without saying much she just disassembled and saw the blue gasket almost torn apart!
> 
> ...



Wow... so the gasket was the culprit. The picture does indicate that the gasket was damaged due to over tightening or improper fastening. 

Did lady go through with you the procedure of removing the solenoid from the cylinder? I hope she did not use tools to tighten it.


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## limz_777 (14 Dec 2016)

many of top aquascaper stay there in hk ,in fact pioneers ,  have you been to dave chow 's shop ? not sure if Cliff Hui's shop still operating.


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## Archer (14 Dec 2016)

imak said:


> It seems you overtightened it.



I am not sure. Probably when I tried using a vise grip when it first leak.


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## Archer (14 Dec 2016)

sgdiscus said:


> Wow... so the gasket was the culprit. The picture does indicate that the gasket was damaged due to over tightening or improper fastening.
> 
> Did lady go through with you the procedure of removing the solenoid from the cylinder? I hope she did not use tools to tighten it.



Yah. I am surprise the same upon seeing it. The seller just hand tighten as per your instructions. I haven't soap test it yet but already hooked it in power as I see my hc are not producing bubles. ( busy me not to test it!) However I see the pressure now in stable 3.


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## Archer (14 Dec 2016)

limz_777 said:


> many of top aquascaper stay there in hk ,in fact pioneers ,  have you been to dave chow 's shop ? not sure if Cliff Hui's shop still operating.



I am very new to aquascaping and still learning. I am not familiar with them but morelikely they have shop in Mongkok where the "goldfish street" is located. I am located in hk island and going there is almost an hour via train.


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## Manisha (14 Dec 2016)

No experience with co2 to offer but lovely scape & planting so far!


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## Archer (15 Dec 2016)

Manisha said:


> No experience with co2 to offer but lovely scape & planting so far!



Thank you! Aside from the co2 setback I think all in all my tank is doing fine.

However, I am noticing now my substrate flatenning out in the back side.





Please help!


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## Archer (15 Dec 2016)

Bought crystal red shrimp yesterday and notice they are quite aggressive. 





Love they were able to adopt in the tank immediately but notice the red shrimp (I believe they are singapore flower shirmp correct me if I am wrong) got more passive. They don't usually hide here before





Notice as well that the hc are not producing much bubbles unlike before. Though the bubbles now are are more bigger. Do I need to raise my co2 dosage?






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## sgdiscus (15 Dec 2016)

Archer said:


> Thank you! Aside from the co2 setback I think all in all my tank is doing fine.
> 
> However, I am noticing now my substrate flatenning out in the back side.
> 
> ...


I went back to your older posts and compared the scape and the current picture.

Looks like the soil underneath the big rocks was softening due to the water and possibly pocket of gases forming  (natural.. happens in all planted tank with more than 1 inch of soil). As a result, as the big rocks sink into the soil... the soil from the back get pushed to the areas where there are lesser pressure and hence you get the flatenning effect.

One of the tricks aquascapers used is to put plastic eggcrates (for example - http://www.totalplastics.com/products/622  Again need to caveat... I am not related to this company and neither am I endorsing.) Underneath the rocks to support their weight and to raise them up. 

You can try getting these eggcrates from any gardening or hardware shops. You can also use any substitutes that are inert in nature. Smaller rocks can also be used. The disadvantage of using heavy materials is that it adds additional downward pressure. This will only be a safety concern if your aquarium stand do not have full backing at the bottom. 

To prevent the flatening effect, you will need to address the issue of the heavy rocks pushing the soil forward. 

One option is to accept the effect and focus next on growing the plants well. Once you gain more experience with growing the plants, you can think about re-scaping the entire tank. Afterall... this is a hobby. 

The other option is to do a total rescape now. Since you are still at an early stage it may be an acceptable price to pay for a restart. This is part and parcel of aquascaping.

Third option is a temporary one.. which I used myself. That is to manually scope up the soil from the front and transport them to the back! I do this once awhile... as a minor touchup just before my water change. Not recommended because it will stir up bacteria and gases causing ammonia spike. Hence I always do a water change immediately and your water will be cloudy for a few days. Also the flatening effect will return. 

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## Archer (15 Dec 2016)

sgdiscus said:


> I went back to your older posts and compared the scape and the current picture.
> 
> Looks like the soil underneath the big rocks was softening due to the water and possibly pocket of gases forming  (natural.. happens in all planted tank with more than 1 inch of soil). As a result, as the big rocks sink into the soil... the soil from the back get pushed to the areas where there are lesser pressure and hence you get the flatenning effect.
> 
> ...



Thanks for the those tips! I did use plastic foundation like the one below. However, as I newbie never thought of the impact of it on the long run. Now I understand the use



 

I was able to get the flattening resolve a bit by adding the remaining soil left. The main rocks are not much of my concern, the yellow arrows part is the one I am thinking. I hope it will not flatten out in the level of the front in the months to come.

Btw, do you think my Co2 atomizer is positioned optimally? Since the co2 is back in operation after the leak, seems the hc goes back to producing bubbles. Just thinking if I am maximizing it with the outflow pipe position as well.

I would like to ask as well if my airstone is positioned okay.


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## Archer (15 Dec 2016)

I am thinking of adding plants as well. Can you suggest plants of similar size as I don't want to change the scale I have now. I am thinking if I should be patient for my Littorella uniflora to thrive more.


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## limz_777 (15 Dec 2016)

Archer said:


> I am very new to aquascaping and still learning. I am not familiar with them but morelikely they have shop in Mongkok where the "goldfish street" is located. I am located in hk island and going there is almost an hour via train.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



definitely worth the 1 hr trip i guess , if you are into aquascaping ,not sure if he still has a planted shop, you might need to check it out yourself , a old video of him


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## sgdiscus (16 Dec 2016)

Archer said:


> I am thinking of adding plants as well. Can you suggest plants of similar size as I don't want to change the scale I have now. I am thinking if I should be patient for my Littorella uniflora to thrive more.


Co2 atomiser position. I suggest that you take a week or so to observe plants' development. If the plants are growing well and spreading then probably good to leave it as it is. But if you are really bothered about the location due to asthetic reasons... then go ahead and change it!  

just be mindful to observe the plants' development whenever you change something. I also forget that sometimes in my own eagerness to tinker with my tank.  in fact I am so guilty of making too many changes in my tank at one go which resulted in an imbalance. The imbalance then went on to induce algae and BBA.

Pearling and CO2 level. Many possibilities why the size of the pearling is different. One reason could be that the position of the needle valve on the solenoid is not the same as before resulting in different level of CO2 and therefore development of the plant and rate of photosynthesis. 

Maybe someone else can share their experience. I would only caution that as you add more livestock (especially expensive ones) into your tank... be careful of what you change. And if you have to change... change slowly. Sad to say.. I am speaking from experience of losing livestock because of my own impatience.

Position of airstone. As above. 

As for adding plants, sorry can't really help you as I don't have too much experience in carpetting plants.

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## Archer (16 Dec 2016)

limz_777 said:


> definitely worth the 1 hr trip i guess , if you are into aquascaping ,not sure if he still has a planted shop, you might need to check it out yourself , a old video of him




Tried searching about them and got to remember them on my early searches about aquascaping. Not sure if they still have their shop though, but will try to do some searches and see if I can drop by if there still existed. Biggest issue I have with shops here is one-language as I can only speak English to them and second-photography is prohibited in most of the shops I see.


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## Archer (16 Dec 2016)

sgdiscus said:


> Co2 atomiser position. I suggest that you take a week or so to observe plants' development. If the plants are growing well and spreading then probably good to leave it as it is. But if you are really bothered about the location due to asthetic reasons... then go ahead and change it!
> 
> just be mindful to observe the plants' development whenever you change something. I also forget that sometimes in my own eagerness to tinker with my tank.  in fact I am so guilty of making too many changes in my tank at one go which resulted in an imbalance. The imbalance then went on to induce algae and BBA.
> 
> ...



Actually the atomizer is in the best position I want. My filter and cylinder are beside the tank. The hc seems to thrive, I just went ahead and post it to get suggestions. But I think I will take your comment that if plants are okay then it may be in it's optimum position already.

So it's called pearling, ty for that. I think I need to raise my co2 a little bit as hc are much denser now same goes with the grass.

Thank God, no issue with algae so far.

I don't worry much with livestock as I only bought the basic neon tetras. If my tank is a little bit bigger maybe I can invest more. But I am trying to control in buying anymore fish as it's already overgrowded with the tetrasas it is. But I am still thinking if I can squeeze in one or two algae eater maybe a siamese?

For the airstone, I like it when I turn it on during co2 off. But kinda get bothered by the glass when looking at an angle as it seems to distrupt the iwagumi feel. By the way, not the best glass stick as it's so hard to put the tubing. Is there any tubing size a bit bigger use for airstone?

Hmmm, good pointer. I need to check on carpetting plants as I can't really go with stem plants as it would change my overall layout, or I can?



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## Archer (16 Dec 2016)

I feel my outflow is not giving enough surface agitation. Can you please advise what you think?

I have a small hob filter from my old mini tank that I tried use to help clean out the surface. 


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## sgdiscus (16 Dec 2016)

Archer said:


> I feel my outflow is not giving enough surface agitation. Can you please advise what you think?
> 
> I have a small hob filter from my old mini tank that I tried use to help clean out the surface.
> 
> ...



Airstones. I have not used glasswares for airstones before. Based on your video and pictures, I suppose part of the fun is to go shopping around for something that you like and try to fit it into your tank and budget.

As for algae eaters, you can look into the different species of otocinclus catfish. But these guys are quite sensitive and survival rates are low because of the stress they received during the transport from overseas to your local aquarium. They will help you deal with brown diatoms and the softer green algae. They are omnivorous and therefore will eat pellets as well. I think 2 or 3 will be enough in your tank. I have kept up to 4 before in my previous 60cm tank but that tank was more heavily planted than yours. Healthy otos can be a good indication of water quality in a tank. 

Personally I avoid siamese or SAE. These guys grow really fast and can be up to 10cm. There are people who are fans of SAE. I removed mine with much difficulties because they move very fast.

Some people like snails to deal with algae. That could be an option. But I can't advice you on that because I don't like them. I used sparkling gouramis to deal with snails.  I also soaked new plants in Algaexit and Anti-snail medications before I put them in my tank. The one time I got lazy was the one time the snails got in.... 

Lily pipes. In my old 60cm tank, the lily pipe that I used did not help breakup protein films on my water surface. In the end, I went with a surface skimmer. And relied on a normal airstone to improve oxygenation. It was only later on that I found out that different people have different level of success with different designs of lily pipes. So abit of trial and order is needed as the outflow of your filter may also play a part. Actually, I don't see anything wrong with your outflow. So if you have not observed protein film on the water surface... then all looks good. 

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## Archer (16 Dec 2016)

sgdiscus said:


> Airstones. I have not used glasswares for airstones before. Based on your video and pictures, I suppose part of the fun is to go shopping around for something that you like and try to fit it into your tank and budget.
> 
> As for algae eaters, you can look into the different species of otocinclus catfish. But these guys are quite sensitive and survival rates are low because of the stress they received during the transport from overseas to your local aquarium. They will help you deal with brown diatoms and the softer green algae. They are omnivorous and therefore will eat pellets as well. I think 2 or 3 will be enough in your tank. I have kept up to 4 before in my previous 60cm tank but that tank was more heavily planted than yours. Healthy otos can be a good indication of water quality in a tank.
> 
> ...



Glassware for airstone is just a marketing bluff. I would not recommend them. They might look good, but it's something I can live without. If I have known better when I bought the glassware, I should have bought the below
:




I am not sure of their effectiveness, but seems the addition of skimmer will give further surface agitation. Anyone who have use this before?

Since you have mentioned otocinclus catfish, I have actually seen one when I bought my shrimps. At that time, I am just not sure if they are the right one I am looking as seeing pictures on the computer and on actual really is hard for me especially since I literally just know a few fish. At the moment, I am satisfied with the performance of my shrimps and no algae so far (hopefully I am right to think none at the moment) I am thinking if adding otos will really get the balance off due to overcrowding. I guess it's a common issue for starters to want to get different fish in the tank when they see spaces still available. I am trying to not indulge on this, but more of want to make sure what I put in will serve a function in the system rather than just for aesthetics.

Thanks for mentioning the SAE, 10cm is way to big for my very small tank. I am maxout to about 2" for a fish, else I will loose the scale. Maybe in the future given the chance to get a much bigger tank.

I actually tried searching what is a protein film, as I am not really acquainted with it. Thankfully, my tank don't have it yet. You maybe right that the outflow is fine. I might just want to see more movement where the fact is, the outflow maybe giving just the correct flow. Just the right force for my setup.


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## Costa (16 Dec 2016)

Otos are beautiful fish. I particularly like the way they swim around from leaf to leaf. They are very small too, grow up to 3cm, so I don't think they are going to be a major burden on your filter. As sgdiscus pointed out, otos are sensitive and you will get deaths, but the fishes that survive the first few days will live happily. I wouldn't feed on the first couple days and I would also keep the lights and CO2 off to maximize your chances of successful introduction to your tank.


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## Archer (16 Dec 2016)

Costa said:


> Otos are beautiful fish. I particularly like the way they swim around from leaf to leaf. They are very small too, grow up to 3cm, so I don't think they are going to be a major burden on your filter. As sgdiscus pointed out, otos are sensitive and you will get deaths, but the fishes that survive the first few days will live happily. I wouldn't feed on the first couple days and I would also keep the lights and CO2 off to maximize your chances of successful introduction to your tank.



Given the comment about their size, I am more interested in getting one soon. Never thought they are that sensitive, as the one I saw actually is just in a plastic ready for sale along the streets in mongkok (goldfish street) here in Hong Kong.

http://www.goldfish-market.hk/how-to-get-to.html#.WFQxKVN9600

Before knowing more about the otos from you guys, I almost got to buy an Albino Gold Bushy Nose Plecostomus (please correct me if I got it wrong but this is the one I saw and just an inch in length). I've told myself that I will not be buying anything that I put in the aquarium without getting much information, so I ended not buying it thinking it might not be suitable for my tank or it might grow too big.


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## Costa (17 Dec 2016)

I don't know about plecos. I never liked them. I know people are crazy about them - I find them appalling. 

If I were you I would go for corys or otos. Or maybe even both: otos will clean the algae off your plants and wood, and corys will keep your substrate free of any food remains. 

Just make sure to have room for at least 6 of each. Also make sure to count them at least twice per day and remove any dead fishes as a single dead fish can poison the water with ammonia.


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## Archer (17 Dec 2016)

Costa said:


> I don't know about plecos. I never liked them. I know people are crazy about them - I find them appalling.
> 
> If I were you I would go for corys or otos. Or maybe even both: otos will clean the algae off your plants and wood, and corys will keep your substrate free of any food remains.
> 
> Just make sure to have room for at least 6 of each. Also make sure to count them at least twice per day and remove any dead fishes as a single dead fish can poison the water with ammonia.



Thank you for your suggestion. 6 for each will surely overload my system. If I to introduce another fauna, I might get max of 3 for both maybe.





I think my tank is doing good as I notice my tetras getting fat and very active. 

I just have question about shrimp. Is frequent change of their shell a good thing?


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## Costa (17 Dec 2016)

Three isnt good enough for these fishes. 

Your tetras need some hiding places. I would add some surface plants until your tank plants grow. 

Also, "active" isn't always a good thing, might be due to stress, I'm guessing your tetras feel exposed. 

Great looking tank, very nice aquascape!


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## ahjoe0digi (17 Dec 2016)

Stress or not if they active but tend to group together then they feel insecure, if they are active and spread across whole tank than they are healthy.  If they not eating and stay at one place, not joining others then they are really stressed , sick or something wrong

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## Archer (17 Dec 2016)

Costa said:


> Three isnt good enough for these fishes.
> 
> Your tetras need some hiding places. I would add some surface plants until your tank plants grow.
> 
> ...




Thanks for that, never thought being active can also be a sign of stress. However, I think they already "owned" the tank as they are already on all corners. Their behavior have changed since I first introduce them on the tank.


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## Archer (17 Dec 2016)

ahjoe0digi said:


> Stress or not if they active but tend to group together then they feel insecure, if they are active and spread across whole tank than they are healthy.  If they not eating and stay at one place, not joining others then they are really stressed , sick or something wrong
> 
> Sent from my MX4 using Tapatalk



I notice during their first few hours in the tank that they just crumple in one corner. A few days then, they started exploring. Also, before when I put food they just wait for it to get drop. Now, they can't wait and get it from the surface!


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## ahjoe0digi (17 Dec 2016)

I think what he said "active" means fish darting around in tank?  When fish first introduced into a new tank they tend to pack together and swim fast along tank wall. When they feel secure they will start to form loosely pack all over the tank. 

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## Archer (17 Dec 2016)

ahjoe0digi said:


> I think what he said "active" means fish darting around in tank?  When fish first introduced into a new tank they tend to pack together and swim fast along tank wall. When they feel secure they will start to form loosely pack all over the tank.
> 
> Sent from my MX4 using Tapatalk



Thanks for the clarification. I am happy with what they have become now.


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## limz_777 (17 Dec 2016)

Lucky you didn't bought that bushy nose, not only outgrow and will definitely mess up your tanks, suitable and similar would be otos


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## Archer (17 Dec 2016)

limz_777 said:


> Lucky you didn't bought that bushy nose, not only outgrow and will definitely mess up your tanks, suitable and similar would be otos



Thank you for that. At the moment, I may restrain from adding fauna. I would like to focus on the flora for the meantime. Just searching for suitable plants appropriate for my tiny tank.


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## Archer (20 Dec 2016)

Finally got my otos! I hope they are otos as I got problem identifying fishes when I went to the "goldfish street" due to me not able to communicate in cantonese.





Tons of different fishes. I hope I can take pictures but the no photography sign are all over shops. 

I saw one fish which I feel in love. I am just not sure if it's a baby cichlid or what species it is. And quite expensive for a small fish.

Anyway, also bought two plants 





Thinking of putting the ammania at the nack of main rock. And maybe some on the side. Not sure yet about the riccia.



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## Costa (20 Dec 2016)

Yes, they are otos. Well done. Make sure their belly is always full and throw in a cucumber or broccoli every now and then to keep them happy. How many did you end up getting?


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## Archer (20 Dec 2016)

Costa said:


> Yes, they are otos. Well done. Make sure their belly is always full and throw in a cucumber or broccoli every now and then to keep them happy. How many did you end up getting?



Good thing because I saw something similar but but then again I look closer much like a thin slender cory.

Got them 4 for $50. Bought also some food for them





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## Costa (20 Dec 2016)

4 for $50??! Jesus, that's expensive. They are usually 2-3 $ each. Are they wild caught maybe?


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## Archer (20 Dec 2016)

Costa said:


> 4 for $50??! Jesus, that's expensive. They are usually 2-3 $ each. Are they wild caught maybe?



Sorry for the confusion, I live in Hong Kong so that's in Hkd. Yah, they are quite expensive as I bought them in a shop that usually has higher price tag on their fishes. I'm sure they are quality as I can see their setup and seems equipment and fishes are in best shape. I try to avoid buying the one in plastic bags as they tend to be so stress already and might not be able to bring them home alive. I don't think they are wild caught but who knows? Inasmuch as I want to chat with the sellers, all I can really say is the price. 

It's ironic that the goldfish street is a street full of fish shops, aquarium and everything in between but I haven't found my "favorite" yet as I am really struggling in communicating with them.




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## Cor (20 Dec 2016)

Archer said:


> Actually the atomizer is in the best position I want.


my small contribution:
Change the poppy glass into a regular lily pipe. Because a poppy glass don't have an good flow. 
 Your flow must transport the CO2 through the tank. So position the diffuser on the other side of the tank; that gives a much better circulation!


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## Archer (20 Dec 2016)

***Sad update***

Saw one of my cherry crystal is dead! 





I bought 3. Now I am trying to find the other one. I hope it's just hiding...


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## Archer (21 Dec 2016)

Cor said:


> my small contribution:
> Change the poppy glass into a regular lily pipe. Because a poppy glass don't have an good flow.
> Your flow must transport the CO2 through the tank. So position the diffuser on the other side of the tank; that gives a much better circulation!



Thanks for advise. I think my glass pipes are wrong move from me. I am looking at replacing them maybe with the one that came with the filter, but for now maybe I will try get my money's worth. Duly noted on your recommendation.


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## Archer (21 Dec 2016)

Need help. I am having problem connecting this skimmer I previously bought way before I have my aquarium for a different purpose back then


 

I have a small HOB filter (similar on the below image) from my previous small tank that I want to utilize for some quick skimming of my current tanks water surface.



 

Is this even possible? If so, what do you use to connect them. I've got the same problem on a small water pump I've bought where the out port is somewhat bigger in circumference of a normal airpump tubing.


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## Cor (21 Dec 2016)

This skimmer works separately from a filter. So perfect for your tank


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## Archer (21 Dec 2016)

Cor said:


> This skimmer works separately from a filter. So perfect for your tank
> View attachment 96150



Thanks for the sample. However, I am just thinking how I can utilize the things I currently have. 

I may need to do some diy to make it work. How many sizes are there for tubing really? Getting confuse about the sizes. I am ot even sure what size is the tubing from my filter.


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## ahjoe0digi (21 Dec 2016)

Archer said:


> Need help. I am having problem connecting this skimmer I previously bought way before I have my aquarium for a different purpose back then
> View attachment 96148
> 
> I have a small HOB filter (similar on the below image) from my previous small tank that I want to utilize for some quick skimming of my current tanks water surface.
> ...


Apparently that skimmer is designed for canister filter. However you can try  to connect the skimmer and hob with a hose??  Just measure the outer diameter of hob input and skimmer. You can bring along your skimmer and hob to a hardware shop so that you can directly test with the rubber hose. 

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## Archer (21 Dec 2016)

ahjoe0digi said:


> Apparently that skimmer is designed for canister filter. However you can try  to connect the skimmer and hob with a hose??  Just measure the outer diameter of hob input and skimmer. You can bring along your skimmer and hob to a hardware shop so that you can directly test with the rubber hose.
> 
> Sent from my MX4 using Tapatalk



Exactly what I have in mind. I already tried positioning them and the only problem I am having now is the size of tubing.


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## ahjoe0digi (21 Dec 2016)

Archer said:


> Exactly what I have in mind. I already tried positioning them and the only problem I am having now is the size of tubing.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Just measure the outer diameter of just bring your hob and skimmer to hardware shop and test on different size of hose. 

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## Archer (21 Dec 2016)

ahjoe0digi said:


> Just measure the outer diameter of just bring your hob and skimmer to hardware shop and test on different size of hose.
> 
> Sent from my MX4 using Tapatalk




I need to learn more about tubing. I thought there are just few like 9mm 16mm 22mm like the one on lily pipes.


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## Cor (21 Dec 2016)

Archer said:


> It's ironic that the goldfish street is a street full of fish shops, aquarium and everything in between but I haven't found my "favorite" yet as I am really struggling in communicating with them.



That's great. 
I've 'visit' this street by Google Maps streetview. I wish there were so many aqua stores in my city


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## ahjoe0digi (21 Dec 2016)

Cor said:


> That's great.
> I've 'visit' this street by Google Maps streetview. I wish there were so many aqua stores in my city


there also got a Cantonese slang about gold fish ->金鱼佬. If Translate literally mean gold fish man. It is originated from some case in 60s of last century when some men using children's interest in animals such as goldfish to lure them out and .....:X. Those man we called gold fish man 

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## Archer (21 Dec 2016)

Cor said:


> That's great.
> I've 'visit' this street by Google Maps streetview. I wish there were so many aqua stores in my city



That place is a one stop shop for all fish hobbies. Just need to check each shop to get the best value for money.


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## Archer (21 Dec 2016)

ahjoe0digi said:


> there also got a Cantonese slang about gold fish ->金鱼佬. If Translate literally mean gold fish man. It is originated from some case in 60s of last century when some men using children's interest in animals such as goldfish to lure them out and .....:X. Those man we called gold fish man
> 
> Sent from my MX4 using Tapatalk



Nice share. Never know that. Thought just because of fishes on the street


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## Archer (21 Dec 2016)

While my 3 ottos seem to adjust already, this one seems to got all frightened. Tried to poke a stick but will not budge (just wanna make sure its not dead)

I will do some planting tomorrow and hopefully it will not die


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## ahjoe0digi (22 Dec 2016)

Archer said:


> Nice share. Never know that. Thought just because of fishes on the street
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Err,  actually that name gold fish street remind me of that words. That street not named because of that incident

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## Archer (22 Dec 2016)

ahjoe0digi said:


> Err,  actually that name gold fish street remind me of that words. That street not named because of that incident
> 
> Sent from my MX4 using Tapatalk



Hahaha my bad. Still good to know bout those stories.


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## Archer (22 Dec 2016)

I did some minor scaping in my tank as I added the plants I recently bought. Will share it on my next post as I am currently went crazy shopping again for a surface skimmer, replacement outflow pipe, scissors and hose. Pictures to be shared once I get home.

Actually my main reason going back is the fish I fell in love with. So I tried my luck asking the staff what name is the fish. Even showing liveaquaria pictures to no avail! I even tried pointing the chinese writing on the tank but still nada.

I just made some quick picture of the tank. Guys please help me identify this lovely fishes. Even though my tank is small, I would like to get this fishes maybe in the future.

1)





2)







3) this is the one!!










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## dw1305 (22 Dec 2016)

Hi all, 
Top photo has all different colour forms of the Ram cichlid (_<"Mikrogeophagus ramirezi">_). They all tend to be inbred and very prone to all sorts of diseases (and they are often infested with _Camallanus_ worms). I'd definitely avoid the balloon shaped and Golden "xanthic" ones. 

The next cichlid down is a male _<"Apistogramma cacatuoides">, _also a xanthic the_ "_White Gold" form.

Next one down again is another _<"Apistogramma">, _male _<"Apistogramma agassizii">, _the ones at the front are a line bred red "Rostrich" form, I can't really tell with the ones further back. 

The bottom two photos show two rare and unusual fish. The Pencil fish is _<"Nannostomus espei"> _and the cichlid is _Biotoecus spp., _probably _<"B. opercularis">. _

In terms of ease of keeping the_ Apistogramma cacatuoides_ is probably the easiest, all the others need more specialist care, and _Biotoecus_ is a very difficult fish.   

I've got a few _<"A. agassizii">_ at the moment, they are a good fish for a planted tank with soft water and plenty of cover, but they need some live food. 

cheers Darrel


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## Archer (22 Dec 2016)

dw1305 said:


> Hi all,
> Top photo has all different colour forms of the Ram cichlid (_<"Mikrogeophagus ramirezi">_). They all tend to be inbred and very prone to all sorts of diseases (and they are often infested with _Camallanus_ worms). I'd definitely avoid the balloon shaped and Golden "xanthic" ones.
> 
> The next cichlid down is a male _<"Apistogramma cacatuoides">, _also a xanthic the_ "_White Gold" form.
> ...



Thank you so much for the fish info! Very informative. The first one are so cute and
doesn't move much. Thanks for the headsup as I almost bought one.


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## Archer (2 Feb 2017)

Guys can you please help me ID this fish?! 













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## dw1305 (2 Feb 2017)

Hi all,
That is a Lake Malawi cichlid. I've never kept them, but there are quite a few with a <"stripy "blue on blue" pattern">. 

cheers Darrel


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## Archer (2 Feb 2017)

Thanks darrel! They are so cute.


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## JackMartins (2 Feb 2017)

Hi Archer, Carefull with Lake Malawi Cichlids. 
They tend to be VERY aggressive with fishes not coming from Lake Malawi. In other words, Lake Malawi Cichlids have some particularity of water parameters and behavior that they can only live with themselves hunting other species. Careful with Neon Tetra. Check their behavior.


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## Archer (2 Feb 2017)

JackMartins said:


> Hi Archer, Carefull with Lake Malawi Cichlids.
> They tend to be VERY aggressive with fishes not coming from Lake Malawi. In other words, Lake Malawi Cichlids have some particularity of water parameters and behavior that they can only live with themselves hunting other species. Careful with Neon Tetra. Check their behavior.



Thank you for the advise. Duly noted. 


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## MarkyP (2 Feb 2017)

they are Labidochromis Caeruleus 'Nkali' a member of the mbuna family and should only be kept with other mbuna in large groups - they require a high Ph8+ and hard water to thrive and are not suited to a planted tank


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## three-fingers (2 Feb 2017)

Unfortunately your recent fish choice is very unsuitable for your tank.

Unless you have rock-hard water or are adding a lot of mineral supplements to your tank, they wont last long.  CO2 injection isn't ideal either, they aren't remotely adapted to soft water with low pH. In addition, they require a tank much larger than you have.

They will tear up your plants, dig in your substrate,  move your rocks and probably kill your neon tetras.

Basically, they will either die from inappropriate water stats, or destroy everything else in your tank. There's no winning here.

Take them back to the shop ASAP, for both the fishes sake and your own.

And don't take advice from whoever sold them to you ever again!


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## Archer (3 Feb 2017)

Thank you so much for all your feedback. Revealing the name of this fish gave another dimension to me in this hobby. Thank you for your patience in giving me your invaluable knowledge and experience!


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## Archer (20 Feb 2017)

Hello guys! Need help again about the id of this fish






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## dw1305 (20 Feb 2017)

Hi all, 





Archer said:


> Need help again about the id of this fish


They are young _<"Yaoshania_ _pachychilus">._

cheers Darrel


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## castle (20 Feb 2017)

juvenile http://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/yaoshania-pachychilus/


Edit: pipped by Darrel. lovely looking fish when young, horribly generic when mature, still nice tho.


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## Archer (20 Feb 2017)

dw1305 said:


> Hi all, They are young _<"Yaoshania_ _pachychilus">._
> 
> cheers Darrel



A million thanks to you Darrel!!


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## Archer (20 Feb 2017)

castle said:


> juvenile http://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/yaoshania-pachychilus/
> 
> 
> Edit: pipped by Darrel. lovely looking fish when young, horribly generic when mature, still nice tho.



Thanks for that. With the small tank i currently have, i have a very few options. Thanks for the speedy reply. 


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## Archer (5 Jun 2017)

Hello everyone! Just want to ask what's this small lice like creatures on my tank? 

Not sure where they came from. Btw got an explosion of red shrimp on my tank they seem to breed pretty well.


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## markk (5 Jun 2017)

Archer said:


> Hello everyone! Just want to ask what's this small lice like creatures on my tank?
> 
> Not sure where they came from. Btw got an explosion of red shrimp on my tank they seem to breed pretty well.
> 
> ...


Hard to tell but they look like seed shrimp - if so, I hope you like them - they're there to stay! Extremely hard to eradicate.

Regards, Mark

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## Archer (5 Jun 2017)

markk said:


> Hard to tell but they look like seed shrimp - if so, I hope you like them - they're there to stay! Extremely hard to eradicate.
> 
> Regards, Mark
> 
> Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk




Thanks for the headsup Mark! I tried searching the net but seems cannot locate a specific answer. Base on my initial findings, they seem to show up due to overfeeding. I am just wondering if they are some kind of pest or can cause any issue with my fish and shrimp.


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## dw1305 (5 Jun 2017)

Hi all, 





Archer said:


> I tried searching the net but seems cannot locate a specific answer


Try looking for <"Ostracoda">.


Archer said:


> I am just wondering if they are some kind of pest or can cause any issue with my fish and shrimp.


No and no.

cheers Darrel


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## Archer (5 Jun 2017)

Thanks for pointing me to the right direction @dw1305 !


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## Archer (10 Jul 2017)

Guys may I ask your help again to id this fish?


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## alto (11 Jul 2017)

Cherry barb female


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## Archer (11 Jul 2017)

alto said:


> Cherry barb female



Thank you so much @alto


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