# ADA barn find



## Kalum (6 Apr 2019)

Late night online browsing can be a good and a bad thing, randomly had a look for tanks up for sale around my local area and an ad popped up which had only been on for 20min and was only 30 miles away, messaged and 14 hours later I'm back with my impulse buy.....

More to follow


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## Kalum (6 Apr 2019)

ADA garden stand with old logo

More to come


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## Kalum (6 Apr 2019)

Plus ADA rack


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## Kalum (6 Apr 2019)

ADA Solar 1 and ADA arm stand 

Unfortunately standard ballast not present and 3rd party ballast included (works fine but need to check specs with someone electrically minded)


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## Ed Wiser (6 Apr 2019)

They didn’t have the tank. Great score.


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## Kalum (6 Apr 2019)

Tank included  just posting as I build and clean 

ADA 75p, only down side is there are quite a lot of scratches in the lower 1/4 of the glass all round, will test fill and see how bad it looks and if bad I'll consider looking into polishing out if possible


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## Tim Harrison (6 Apr 2019)

Nice find. I wouldn't worry about the scratches too much, they're usually not that noticeable when the tank is filled with water.


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## Kalum (6 Apr 2019)

Cant be the right light arm for the stand as well as it sits off to the side


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## Tim Harrison (6 Apr 2019)

Triangular scape with sand where the light doesn't quite reach


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## Jayefc1 (6 Apr 2019)

Nice mate can I ask how much


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## Kalum (6 Apr 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> Triangular scape with sand where the light doesn't quite reach



For every problem there is a solution...

Tbh I've no idea what my plans are for this, total impulse buy with no thought whatsoever apart from I couldn't not buy it



Jayefc1 said:


> Nice mate can I ask how much



Let's just say it was worth my journey


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## Kalum (6 Apr 2019)

So now its decision time

Do I use this as my buce growing tank
Replace my main aqua one optiwhite with twinstar light (just larger than 60p) with this as my main tank in the living room
Turn it into a betta breeding tank.....been toying with this idea but realistically dont have the time or additional tanks for splitting the males down the line
Or something else.....
The scratches and open stand give me concerns about having it as a centre piece tank, but having the bigger tank as a grow out tank just seems a bit backwards...

Need to read up more about the solar 1 light as well as I'm not sure of its pros and cons since its old tech compared to say my twinstar, so that would be a potential extra cost if I had it as my main tank


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## Siege (6 Apr 2019)

Just saw this thread. Really nice! 

Look at George farmer YouTube tour of Adams ADA studio in Poland. Loads of ADA Solar lights.

Really cool looking set up. I agree with Tim,  you won’t notice the scratches when filled. Correct the arm and happy days!


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## Siege (6 Apr 2019)

Ps.

Looking at the pic again you may even be able to diy an extension on the light stand quite quite cheaply and could look good.


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## Kalum (6 Apr 2019)

Cheers @Siege I'll have a look, will be good to find out what the general opinion of it is

I love the slightly industrial yet modern look of it even though it's an old design, just a bit different

I've been thinking along those lines as well and considering putting a slightly bigger pipe as a sleeve around the existing one to extend it say another 20cm and just silicon it in place


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## zozo (6 Apr 2019)

Nice!! An ADA classic. Keep it, this is definitively going to be a collectable.. 



Kalum said:


> I've been thinking along those lines as well and considering putting a slightly bigger pipe as a sleeve around the existing one to extend it say another 20cm and just silicon it in place



I googled ADA solar light arm.. Found something intersting.. It aint to short maybe, first you should turn the clamps 180° over so they are on the inside of the stand leg..





Than could it be that the piece you placed vertical now is a tad longer and atended to be the horizontal one?..


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## alto (7 Apr 2019)

Hope Marcel’s idea is right on 
(though I suspect it’s the arm for a 60P rather than the 75P)

Awesome find 

Consider replacing the bulb - metal halide spectrum degrades fairly quickly and (at least) annual change is typical 
Advanced Aquarist has good technical lighting analysis and review articles (though MH will be mostly in archives I suspect)


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## Kalum (7 Apr 2019)

zozo said:


> Nice!! An ADA classic. Keep it, this is definitively going to be a collectable..
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Great find and something I should have taken notice of before, I've mounted the clamps upside down so when setting it up I did it to what made sense with the orientation they were in, flipping them the correct way and rotating to the back makes a much bigger difference than I was expecting and it's very nearly centre now 

It is pretty much perfect if the cable is right af the end of the arm so I think I'll out an end stop so I can run it like that as it gives me the fear to have it that close to the end without

Thanks @zozo


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## Kalum (7 Apr 2019)

alto said:


> Hope Marcel’s idea is right on
> (though I suspect it’s the arm for a 60P rather than the 75P)
> 
> Awesome find
> ...



Thanks @alto I'll have a look into it all, it's old tech now but am interested to see the colour rendition in comparison to say my twinstar then I'll make a decision going forward, no matter what I do I'll be aiming for low/medium light, high light tanks arent for me

The ADA lamp replacements are extortionate (£70) so I'll try and find an alternative if I like this light and keep it


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## Kalum (7 Apr 2019)

Some great info from everyone and it's much appreciated, I'll be breaking out the DA polisher once my cutting compound arrives this week


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## Kalum (7 Apr 2019)

Very different when side by side to the twinstar but I quite like it

Picture shows the extent of the scratches as well


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## zozo (7 Apr 2019)

alto said:


> (though I suspect it’s the arm for a 60P rather than the 75P)



I would not be surpriced if both ends of the bended top tube are different lenght to use it above multiple tank models.. 

If you can feel the scratches with a finger nail, than polishing is not going to work..


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## Kalum (7 Apr 2019)

zozo said:


> I would not be surpriced if both ends of the bended top tube are different lenght to use it above multiple tank models..
> 
> If you can feel the scratches with a finger nail, than polishing is not going to work..



Yeh some you can feel and some you cant, polishing should improve either and lessen the impact of the worst even if not removing completely, I used to do a lot of car detailing and machine polishing in my spare time so fairly well versed in polishing with paint but limited when it comes to glass, key will be making sure the compound is worked correctly and it's kept cool and all should be golden....


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## Dadofthree (7 Apr 2019)

Very nice find is the back glass scratched if not so bad you could turn it round


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## Kalum (7 Apr 2019)

Dadofthree said:


> Very nice find is the back glass scratched if not so bad you could turn it round



The back is a lot better and potentially what I'll end up doing, but the sides are also like this, anything I can improve even slightly will be a bonus so will see in the next week or 2


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## Kalum (8 Apr 2019)

anyone know if i'll be able fit an inline dimmer to control the solar 1? Not sure how it would impact it since it uses an external ballast and it's also stated at 150w so too much for the standard s2-pro or TC421 i think

trying to find info is quite hard


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## zozo (8 Apr 2019)

I believe HS - High pressure sodium or Hl(D) High Intensity Discharge can not be dimmed. Because the extra power peak it needs to start up is given by the ballast, that's why it needs that ballast and cannot be connected directly to the mains.

Thus a dimmer in front of the ballast can not work because you ne underpowering the balast. A dimmer behind the balast wil eliminate the power peak. The light can not switch on..

At least thats what i assume, the balast specs say its for HS and HI(D) lamps, then one of 2 likely is on you hood..


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## Kalum (8 Apr 2019)

zozo said:


> I believe HS - High pressure sodium or Hl(D) High Intensity Discharge can not be dimmed. Because the extra power peak it needs to start up is given by the ballast, that's why it needs that ballast and cannot be connected directly to the mains.
> 
> Thus a dimmer in front of the ballast can not work because you ne underpowering the balast. A dimmer behind the balast wil eliminate the power peak. The light can not switch on..
> 
> At least thats what i assume, the balast specs say its for HS and HI(D) lamps, then one of 2 likely is on you hood..



Thanks Marcel you've confirmed my worry. That could be a deal breaker for me so might have to be replaced with something else


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## Tim Harrison (8 Apr 2019)

I'm guessing the height of the light can be adjusted in lieu of a dimmer to similar effect.


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## Kalum (8 Apr 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> I'm guessing the height of the light can be adjusted in lieu of a dimmer to similar effect.



It can be but if it's to be used as my main tank as intended then it will be right next to my TV in the livingroom and a dimmer towards the end of the night is key, plus the higher the light the wider it will spread. During the summer is fine with the bright evenings but winter would be a pain. I know i could alter the photo period according to daylight hours but for me being able to enjoy the tank when i'm home in the evening is a must

unless i use this in a different room...


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## Tim Harrison (8 Apr 2019)

Know what you mean, light spill will be quite intrusive, and distracting next to the TV.


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## Kalum (8 Apr 2019)

so my every changing options now are:


Sell the Solar 1 and buy a new light and still use as main tank in living room
Use as my Buce grow out project tank in the conservatory (light spill isn't an issue as it's used as a gym)


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## zozo (8 Apr 2019)

What you need to look out for is a Dimmable ballast..  This is 1-10 volt dim port on the ballast, maybe they come nowadays also with a PWM dimport. But that i do not know.. Automated dimming with 1-10 volt dim port is a bit out of fasion.. I only know of one that ever made an electronic 1-10 volt automated dim puter for dimming Tube ballasts. But he stopt making them when LED and PWM became to popular..

Anyway with a dimmable ballast its possible.. The power peak commes from a capacitor build into the ballast, that only charges and discharges at startup with a high peak, than the balast takes over to feed the lamp. 



Got a Flashback, it was the Flora Mate 1-10 volt Tube light ballast programmable dimmer...No longer in production.. Maybe still to be found as used product on Ebay. It was a mighty popular dimmer back in the 1990's in the vivarium hobby..


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## Kalum (8 Apr 2019)

zozo said:


> What you need to look out for is a Dimmable ballast..  This is 1-10 volt dim port on the ballast, maybe they come nowadays also with a PWM dimport. But that i do not know.. Automated dimming with 1-10 volt dim port is a bit out of fasion.. I only know of one that ever made an electronic 1-10 volt automated dim puter for dimming Tube ballasts. But he stopt making them when LED and PWM became to popular..
> 
> Anyway with a dimmable ballast its possible.. The power peak commes from a capacitor build into the ballast, that only charges and discharges at startup with a high peak, than the balast takes over to feed the lamp.
> 
> ...




Impressed with the archive section of your brain Marcel  I spoke to one of my close friends who is a spark and this is how it went:

Me: Metal Halide lamp with external ballast, possible to make it dimmable?
Spark: Absolutely not
Me: not even with a dimmable ballast?
Spark: LED, Incandescent and some Flurescent can be dimmed but not metal halide


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## zozo (8 Apr 2019)

Well it happens to me too now and then, yelling not possible, not realising it's me actualy getting out of date. Technically we still keep evolving..


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## Kalum (11 Apr 2019)

got my finger out and ordered the glass polishing stuff i need


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## Tim Harrison (11 Apr 2019)

Good luck


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## Kalum (12 Apr 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> Good luck



Cheers @Tim Harrison I know I'll have my work cut out for me but a worthwhile skill if I manage to get it right...


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## Jayefc1 (12 Apr 2019)

It will be worth every minute mate I'm sure you can get it looking good


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## zozo (12 Apr 2019)

Btw if you are looking for strong easy dimmable LED light option to use in that hood.. Search Ebay for Dimmable Flood light led. Than you'll find these COB units shaped in the R7S, the older flood light Halogen bulb fittings.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dimmable-R...n-Bulb-Flood-Light-Lamp-10W-30W/302416511001?

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=r7s+fitting

Also a bit more economical than a 150 watt HID


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## Kalum (12 Apr 2019)

Jayefc1 said:


> It will be worth every minute mate I'm sure you can get it looking good



Cheers Jay, even if i manage to only remove 5% of them it's still an improvement. Always up for learning something new



zozo said:


> Btw if you are looking for strong easy dimmable LED light option to use in that hood.. Search Ebay for Dimmable Flood light led. Than you'll find these COB units shaped in the R7S, the older flood light Halogen bulb fittings.
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dimmable-R...n-Bulb-Flood-Light-Lamp-10W-30W/302416511001?
> 
> ...



@zozo ........how would i be able to introduce a dimmer into my set up using this? Inline between the ballast and light unit? 

If that worked then it would give me a nice and easy solution to make the unit dimmable but the colour profile of the LED might be a bit harsh, but a possible way forward rather than just buying a new light


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## Kalum (12 Apr 2019)

my back up option is the Chihiros RGB Vivid but i really like this solar light, it's just a shame i don't have another place for the tank other than in my livingroom where dimming wouldn't be an issue


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## zozo (12 Apr 2019)

Kalum said:


> how would i be able to introduce a dimmer into my set up using this? Inline between the ballast and light unit?



The likely can be opperated with Phase dimming or a Variac.. They must have a build in dimmable driver.. Then for color rendition look at the Kessil, they too use 2 different led colors next to eachother a cool white and a warm white, dimming the warm will make the light cooler and visa versa.

You can do the same with 2 cool and 1 warm bulb in the centre with using 2 dimmers. 

Regarding dimmer you best ask the vemdor for dimmer recomendations. 

Than i would ask the question if the AC220 volt TC423 would work..
www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-Time-programable-RGB-LED-Controller-Dimmer-TC420-DC12V-24V-5Channel-Total-Output-20A-Common/32803525816.html?

I'm yet not sure how this dims AC 220 LED light sources, but it seemingly does.. I'm planning to order one in the near future to play with. Din't come to that yet.

Asking the TC423 vendor could be an option too ofcourse..


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## zozo (12 Apr 2019)

Kalum said:


> Inline between the ballast and light unit?



Huh? You wouldn't need the ballast anymore with those LED modules..


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## Kalum (12 Apr 2019)

zozo said:


> Huh? You wouldn't need the ballast anymore with those LED modules..



Cheers Marcel, of course you wouldn't. Electronics has never been my strong point!


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