# DIY Cabinet 750h x 300d x 600w



## James D

I've decided to try and make a Cabinet for my ADA 60P, I've looked at a load of kitchen and bathroom cabinets to convert but the cost is prohibitive.

After reading Danny's excellent posts here I'm going to get some 18mm MDF cut and give it a go (even though I'm crap at DIY!).

Here's my plan, I'm putting these up for two reasons, firstly, any advice about what could be wrong would be appreciated and second, someone else might want to use them.

All the pieces will fit easily onto a 2440 x 1220 sheet so at the weekend I'm of to price up getting them cut, as Danny had some success at B&Q I'll try there first.











Getting a decent finish on the MDF is my biggest worry at the moment, but I'll update as it happens.

BTW the plan is to use magnets to keep the 'door' on.

Thanks

James


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## sa80mark

Looking good so far james, if you need any advice give me a shout


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## Wallace

Looks good. Plans look the same as the plans I had for my DIY cabinet, which is identical minus the centre brace. You may want to leave that out, could cause issues for filter access etc. 

Mine was glued and pinned together, and then I used a few screws once the glue had set. I also used small corner braces on the inside of mine just to help keep the joins together. 

I also planned on using mag catches to hold the door in place, I never got around to it though and am still using Blue Tac over a year later lol

I'm going to building one for my 80cm tank soon, I'll use a centre brace for that as it'll be wider and won't be so tight on filter access, it will also have 2 x 400mm wide doors


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## James D

Cheers Mark.

Actually I've found a mistake already. I've just been checking my drawings and I think I need to take 2mm off the door height to make sure it fits!


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## James D

Thanks Wallace, that's good to hear. Yours is sturdy enough without the brace?

Can I ask what paint / finish you used.


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## Wallace

James D said:


> Thanks Wallace, that's good to hear. Yours is sturdy enough without the brace?
> 
> Can I ask what paint / finish you used.



Yeah mine is solid as a rock, no movement or signs or warping / bowing etc

I never actually finished mine, I couldn't decide on what colour I wanted it and me and the wife couldn't agree so I left it as plain as B&Q intended it to be lol

I'll be taking more time and care with the next one mind, and this time we WILL agree on a colour / finish for it lol


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## Samuran

Quick question, are you having one 600mm wide door?

As for the finish, I'd look at car paint from Halfrauds...


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## James D

Yeah, more of a removable panel than a door though, I suppose it might be a bit heavy but it should look a bit neater.I've also made a drawing that looks more like an ADA cabinet with the two doors and the horizontal top strip visible. I'm going to think about it for a few days before I get it cut anyway.

Tut tut Wallace, blu tac and the beautiful 'natural' MDF finish!


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## RossMartin

I made a similar one for my ADA 75P. I cut the doors in two so the doors weren't as heavy...might be an idea. I have about a 2/3mm gap between the doors.


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## James D

Cheers Ross, the more I think about it two doors is the way to go, I'll amend my drawing.


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## ian_m

I have made quite a few cupboards & furniture bits and bobs from MDF, not fish tank cupboards though.

Hints are
- Put some 2x1 on underside of top to stop any bowing at all.
- Put some 2x1 on rear of front support bar, again to stop bowing.
- Get the correct drill/router to cut holes for hinges. Normal screw on hinges with screws don't stay put too long in MDF.
- I primed all my MDF with MDF primer, works much better than DIY primer of diluted emulsion paint.
- Fine sand the primer before painting.
- One cupboard I sprayed with Plasticote aerosol spray can. Expensive, but gorgeous finish. Very messy when spraying, I made a "spray booth" by hanging bed sheets in the garage...yes they were old bed sheets. Wear a breathing mask and do when warm. Can spray on protective varnish for even shinier tougher finish.
- Another I rollered on gloss. Dilute gloss a tad before rollering.Use a new roller & tray for each coat.
- Another I rollered mix & match emulsion followed by two coats of varnish. Can wash emulsion rollers and tray between uses, but not varnish.


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## Samuran

Good ideas for the finish, the only reason I mentioned car paints is due to experience I have of spraying PC case's in my miss spent youth. Not sure how well it would work on wood tho...


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## Samuran

And James have you seen this thread with a similar cabinet being made?
60P IWAGUMI Mountain Scape | UK Aquatic Plant Society


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## Nathaniel Whiteside

Used this myself on my cabinet build a while back :
Rust-Oleum Painters Touch Stone Grey Satin Spray Paint - 400ml:AmazonIY & Tools

I'd recommend a good couple of coats over a primer or preferably sanding sealer.

Then hit it with a clear overcoat of spray varnish as mentioned.


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## Nathaniel Whiteside

I will be starting another build soon, and am thinking of using some ply and Formica.


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## James D

Thanks for all the advice, I'm itching to get started now.

I did see that other cabinet... if mine looks half as good as Emyr's I'll be chuffed!


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## ian_m

My best covering was the Plasticote metallic silver with Plasticote sealer, not cheap, 3 cans @ £7 each + sealer @ £7, but the finish was mirror smooth and virtually unchippable.


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## James D

Out of interest, how would this design work with 18mm Plywood?


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## Nathaniel Whiteside

James D said:


> Out of interest, how would this design work with 18mm Plywood?



It would produce a very bad finish unless grain filled and edges of doors would be untidy unless you took the time to fill them and sand down a few times before you painted.

Overall, a waterproof MDF will provide the best of both scenarios. 

I'm going to use plywood,then stick Formica to the face of every edge. Then trim off with a router Formica trimmer. 

The finish will be flawless then, and I'll never have to worry about paint wearing etc.


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## Samuran

you could always use a self adhesive vinyl...


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## Nathaniel Whiteside

Samuran said:


> you could always use a self adhesive vinyl...



Nah proper job


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## Aron_Dip

Just out of interest what did you use to do the drawings? Also you could take all the parts to a body shop and get them sprayed?



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## GreenNeedle

I've done a few finishes over the years 

First was vinyl.
From this:





To this:






Then I went for raw ash veneer finished with tung oil.
From this:




To this:




Then I sprayed brown after a change of decor in the room but have no pictures.


And now (not quite completed yet) I am going for raw zebrano veneer finished with Danish Oil:
From this:




To this (not got handles yet):





I also did one in gloss white Formica as I was thinking of going that route prior to changing my mind to go zebrano.  Not many good pictures but this one sort of shows it:





One tip I have though.  I always put the pipe entries on both sides.  You never know when you might move things and want them coming from the other side.  I do the half moons because they are more discreet.


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## Alastair

SuperColey1 said:


> I am going for raw zebrano veneer finished with Danish Oil:



This is stunning Andy


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## James D

> Just out of interest what did you use to do the drawings? Also you could take all the parts to a body shop and get them sprayed?


 
Coreldraw, I use it at work along side autocad but for this sort of thing I find Coreldraw a bit faster and easier to amend. I can quite easily do a drawing for you if you need it.
I did think about getting the cabinet sprayed professionally but from what I can see it's a bit expensive.

Supercoley1: Those cabinets look great with the vinyl finish, I'm seriously going to think about doing the same even though I was considering a matt grey / dark grey finish.

Thanks for all the tips everyone!


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## James D

Google keeps bringing up threads with DIY ADA cabinets, I didn't realise there were so many!!!

Anyway, MDFs been ordered £42, it should arrive on tuesday.


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## Nathaniel Whiteside

James D said:


> Google keeps bringing up threads with DIY ADA cabinets, I didn't realise there were so many!!!
> 
> Anyway, MDFs been ordered £42, it should arrive on tuesday.



Lol. Guess why they're so many in number?

Probably because they're very simple in terms of construction, and maybe a little bit to do with cost.

Home brew cabinets cost about £60-70 in your case. And in ADA it's ~£900... Yes Nine HUNDRED.

If you've got a little bit of cash, TGM do their 'own brand' for just over 200. But that's for collection only.


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## James D

£900...ow! I'll show them to my better half if she starts complaining. 

Actually I was half thinking about the TMC signature ones (£130) but they're far to deep.


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## GreenNeedle

James D said:


> Supercoley1: Those cabinets look great with the vinyl finish, I'm seriously going to think about doing the same even though I was considering a matt grey / dark grey finish.


 
I wouldn't  Vinyl is incredibly unforgiving. teeny tiny bits of dust will be noticeable using a plain vinyl whether gloss or matt. Wood effect hides these unless you're close up. So if you're after wood effect or stone effect  then vinyl is fine. Anything that is plain solid colour you are going to hate the finish after a while. spraying is much cleaner in that aspect as long as you like 'orange peel' effect. If doing with cans at home be warned it will take loads. On an MDF cabinet for an 80cm the first 4 will just soak into the wood. lol.



Alastair said:


> This is stunning Andy


 
Thanks. they are actually finished and in situ but not taken pictures. Will do a thread for it rather than cluttering James' one.  I would add that I bought enough gloss white formica to do 2 cabinets but only made one before changing my mind.  These zebrano cabinets are lined with the remainder of the formica   very clean finish inside.


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## James D

OK, MDF is collected and sitting in my dining room / workshop  . A bit of a stupid question probably but before I prime (PVA style primer) it do I need to sand it down?

I'm looking forward to putting it together this weekend then I'm going to get some spray paint.

Cheers

James


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## sa80mark

the main faces only need a very light sand but the edges need alot of attention give them a sand then prime, when dry sand again then prime again keep doing this until there super smooth,  the edges are where you need to spend all your time, the smoother you can get them the better the end finish your aiming to get the edges to look like the face of the mdf


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## Wallace

James D said:


> A bit of a stupid question probably but before I prime (PVA style primer) it do I need to sand it down?



Not a stupid question at all. You can do, I wouldn't say it's entirely necessary though. I have and I haven't in the past, and both times the results have been near enough the same. 

I guess it's all down to you and how much time you want to spend on prep work and finishing etc 

After priming you should give it a once over with a fine grade wet and dry just to key the surface, and again between coats of paint. 

You're looking forward to building it, and I'm looking forward to seeing the end result. 

Adam



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## James D

Cheers, in that case I will, I need to get it looking as professional as possible because the Mrs was mocking me this morning saying it'll look crap and end up in the shed. To be fair, she said that about my DIY tank and she was half right, it is in shed, we all need a spare tank though.


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## GreenNeedle

Personally I wouldn't prime the smooth surfaces.  They tend not to soak too much anyway, however the edges as stated above definitely need priming as they will seem to never take the paint.


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## Nathaniel Whiteside

Halfway through mine as we speak:





It's ply because I'm going to be using a Veneer or Formica finish. And when covered like this, Far Eastern (WBP) Ply is best.


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## GreenNeedle

Nathaniel, How are you going to veneer both sides of the wood now it's fitted together? Or if planning to do just one side aren't you worried about warping?


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## Nathaniel Whiteside

SuperColey1 said:


> Nathaniel, How are you going to veneer both sides of the wood now it's fitted together? Or if planning to do just one side aren't you worried about warping?



Hello mate, 

It's screwed  but not glued. I will be opting to veneer the top first and trim off. Then completely veneer the sides (not using the edging strip on the top board), this should give a tidy look. I think the inside, I am going to either spray paint or Formica with a metal finish such as brushed aluminium.
To be honest don't know what's what with the finishes yet. Ones thinking modern others thinking Woody. I'm going to decide this weekend. 

Got everything but the back done today in 2-3 hours. But will be putting a lot of time into making sure it's finished well with internal lighting etc.

Cheers,
N


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## James D

Looking good Nathaniel, that'll be a beauty when it's finished!

I'm happy to say mine's looking pretty good so far as well (despite having a stinking cold all weekend!). Rather than bodge it together myself I took it up to my Uncle for a bit of advice, he's a slow worker but also a perfectionist - I've got dowelled joints on the uprights so no screws will be visible. I still need to source some hinges but they can wait for now.

I sealed it all with two coats of PVA yesterday and hopefully I'll find time to sand it all down properly tonight.... I just need to get down to the DIY shop to decide on a finish now, I'm definately leaning towards Matt dark grey at the moment.

I didn't have time for any photos this morning but I'll try and get some up tomorrow.

Cheers


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## Rob P

Sorry to butt in guys but will be looking to make a DIY 80cm ADA style and i'm interested to know from those who have made already where the strength comes from in these structures as I notice most don't have a timber frame built inside them or even a centre brace?

My current Fluval stand is made from 2 inch thick stuff suffice to say it's pretty strurdy!


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## Nathaniel Whiteside

Rob P said:


> Sorry to butt in guys but will be looking to make a DIY 80cm ADA style and i'm interested to know from those who have made already where the strength comes from in these structures as I notice most don't have a timber frame built inside them or even a centre brace?
> 
> My current Fluval stand is made from 2 inch thick stuff suffice to say it's pretty strurdy!




Structural integrity comes from the rectangular front piece above the doors. The wider this is, the stronger the structure.
I've routed out a groove in the back of my unit to house the 18mm ply back. This will make mine very strong.

I know it sounds obvious, but make sure the top goes on the top of the uprights/side panels. I've seen it done the other way round, and all the weight is on the screws themselves.


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## Rob P

Nathaniel Whiteside said:


> Structural integrity comes from the rectangular front piece above the doors. The wider this is, the stronger the structure.
> I've routed out a groove in the back of my unit to house the 18mm ply back. This will make mine very strong.
> 
> I know it sounds obvious, but make sure the top goes on the top of the uprights/side panels. I've seen it done the other way round, and all the weight is on the screws themselves.


 
Loud and clear 

I intend to amass the bits I need and then rock up at my bros and instruct him to assemble (he's a joiner) in the workshop!


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## James D

My cabinet is only 600mm wide but if I was going larger than that I would probably have added a vertical support at the front as well (it's on my original drawing but I took the advice not to bother with it).

Having said that, now it's built, mine is incredibly sturdy and I can't see an extra 200mm making much difference.


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## Rob P

James D said:


> I can't see an extra 200mm making much difference.


 
 That's a lot to some people LOL


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## James D




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## Wallace

James D said:


> My cabinet is only 600mm wide but if I was going larger than that I would probably have added a vertical support at the front as well (it's on my original drawing but I took the advice not to bother with it).
> 
> Having said that, now it's built, mine is incredibly sturdy and I can't see an extra 200mm making much difference.



If you hear a loud bang and smashing sound, followed by gushing water in the middle of the night don't blame me ok lol

Surprising how sturdy they are isn't it. 

I've actually semi finished mine now, I've cut the door in half and fitted some hinges and mag catches. Wifey covered the doors and top panel in Dark Walnut Fablon earlier on too. It don't look half bad now lol 


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## James D

Nice one Wallace, got any photos?

Mine would be finished but I don't want to be sanding MDF indoors and it's rained every evening this week.


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## Wallace

I've just taken this with my phone so it's not the best pic but it'll give you an idea. 






The next one is gonna be built properly from start to finish, not be half finished off a year and half later lol


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## Nathaniel Whiteside

Wallace said:


> I've just taken this with my phone so it's not the best pic but it'll give you an idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The next one is gonna be built properly from start to finish, not be half finished off a year and half later lol
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I particularly like how 3 dimensional your wallpaper is. It almost comes to life on the right of the tank..


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## Rob P

Definite ladies touch there  lol


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## Wallace

Yup, that'd be the wife lol 


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## Rob P

My OH's getting to the point of beyond caring... top quote of hers via email today whilst testing the water on a style of cabinet i like, when asked 'do you like this'



> Amazingly, yes I do, I like a bit of wood. I’d put
> up with most aquaria if set up on a nice block


 
Eaaaaaasy!  lol


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## Wallace

lol 

Completely off topic, I can't really tell from the small image on tapatalk, but it looks like a Lancia Delta in your avatar Rob. Yours?


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## Rob P

Yes it is Wallace, lightly modified 16V Integrale in very good nick


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## egon

Glad you've posted this up, I've been looking at new tanks since we have to redecorate the living room, my cabinet is the wrong colour.
So I thought, I know, eBay/gumtree and bigger tank. 
But looking at this, it may be easier to make a new cabinet! 
What's the biggest tank that people have on DIY cabs?


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## Nathaniel Whiteside

egon said:


> Glad you've posted this up, I've been looking at new tanks since we have to redecorate the living room, my cabinet is the wrong colour.
> So I thought, I know, eBay/gumtree and bigger tank.
> But looking at this, it may be easier to make a new cabinet!
> What's the biggest tank that people have on DIY cabs?



Mines going to be 900mm, but there's definitely bigger.


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## Andy Thurston

"Fifty Shades of Green" - (1600 Litre Sanjarami) | UK Aquatic Plant Society
much bigger


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## egon

Blinky blimey! That's a lump, isn't it?


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## Nathaniel Whiteside

Big clown said:


> "Fifty Shades of Green" - (1600 Litre Sanjarami) | UK Aquatic Plant Society
> much bigger




I think he was referring to this specific cabinet design...


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## GreenNeedle

Took a couple of pictures of one of my finished cabinets


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## Nathaniel Whiteside

SuperColey1 said:


> Took a couple of pictures of one of my finished cabinets




Nice mate. Looks great. 
You did it inside too? Must have cost a fortune in zebrano veneer? Where did you purchase it from?  
Is that a Do aqua Wabi Kusa setup?


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## GreenNeedle

The veneer was expensive but I got it off ebay.  It is veneered inside on the top and sides only as you should always veneer both sides.  The bottom and centre only have edging on them so no need to veneer bot sides.

It isn't a do aqua, its another DIY creation


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## James D

Looks really nice SuperColey, just need to hang that picture now.

I've got mine finished and installed at last, I'm really happy with the result, especially as my tank was on an ikea unit before and I lived in fear of a collapse.

I made the mistake of going to the DIY shop with her indoors though and she insisted on a 'french lilac' shade of grey  . Luckily it's really subtle and you can't really tell it's not just a normal grey in our dingy living room. I just about managed to get 3 coats on the front and sides and 2 on the back, top and inside out of a £6.99 tin so it was good value! It's a satin finish painted on with a small roller and it looks much better than I was expecting.

I forgot my camera today so I'll post up some pics tomorrow.

Thanks to everyone for the advice in this thread (and my uncle's joinery skills). I've now got a lovely cabinet for under £60, happy days!


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## James D

Here it is................






(Ignore the filters, both my filters are getting replaced this week with a single Eheim that will go in the cabinet)


I prefer this design with the to brace hidden inside the door to the normal ADA style one, the only thing is the sawn edge of the MDF visible at the top needs a lot of sanding and painting to get a decent finish, if you inspect mine closely you can see some pits where it isn't quite smooth. Overall though I'm really happy with it!

Cheers

James


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## Samuran

Looks good James, well done


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## Nathaniel Whiteside

Fantastic job sir. Looks very good.


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## GreenNeedle

Look great  looks grey too


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## James D

Cheers, it's grey enough thanks!


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## GreenNeedle

Yep thats what I meant.  looks like you wanted it to   nice job


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## Nathaniel Whiteside

Mines getting there:





Slowly!


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## James D

Looking good mate! 

I wish I'd put pipe holes on the back as well, I don't need them now but you never know.


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