# Lockdown EA Aquascaper 900



## Richard40 (16 May 2020)

So almost two weeks ago my Aqua One Nano 80 burst at the seal and as a result 130 litres of water, soil, fish, shrimp evacuated the tank onto my laminate dining room floor. Everyone’s aquarium nightmare 😐😢
Yes it happened to me. So, rather than dwell on it and stress about it I went about bringing forward purchasing an EA Aquascaper 900 which I was going to buy after my wedding next summer.  After a 7 hour clean up, I convinced the missus and 3 days later I had one sat in my back room. Pic attached.
I ordered all my hardscape and plants from Aquarium Gardens and yesterday for the whole day went about planning, laying and planting.

So the details

*The Tank*

EA Aquascaper 900 with black gloss cabinet

*Filter & Heater*

Oase Biomaster Thermo 600 

P*re filter*
Changed the pre filter sponges to coarse sponges. Drilled more holes in the plastic pipe to allow more flow. 

A medium blue sponge is at the bottom of the canister. 
Media is Biohome Ultimate which has two trays above the medium sponge. The second to last tray with a bag of Seachem Purigen 100ml. The top tray is a fine filter sponge which I changed as the current one is the orange coarse sponge (Why this is I don't know).

Heater is the Biomaster heater 300 watts. Currently running at 22 degrees.

*Filter output*

EA Aquascaper lily pipes 16/22
Twinstar nano sterliser to help prevent algae growth

*Light*

Twinstar 900S running for 6 hours for the first two weeks and 8 hours after.

Currently at 50% intensity and ramping up every 5 days once moving to 8 hours a day. 

Using the Twinstar dimmer I'm ramping up half an hour each side of it turning on or off. 

L000 15.45
L050 16.15
L050 10.15
L000 10.45


*CO2*

CO2 art regulator with solenoid and bubble counter. CO2 art inline diffuser. 

2kg fire extinguisher

Hanna PH probe to test the PH from CO2 on to lights off. 


*Water & water changes*

Tap water which is soft. 
Use a hose pipe to drain the tank to 25%. Once at 25% removed, I use an Oase 1000 pump which pumps water from a bucket in my kitchen sink (primed) straight back into the tank to do large water changes. 
Currently changing 70% of the tanks water daily which I will do for a week.

*Substrate*

Used Tropica soil from my Aqua One. I sieved this and washed out any roots or dirty water before adding. I also topped with 9 more litres of fresh soil on top. 

ADA La Plata sand

*Fertiliser*

Will be using EI salts from www.aquariumplantfood.co.uk and overdosing slightly when I start tomorrow.

*Plants*

Microsorum trident on wood
Anubias Petite
Anubias Pangalino
Bucephalandra Red and wavy Green
Cryptocoryne Balansae
Crytocoryne Lucens
Crytocoryne Willissii
Crytocoryne Wendtii Tropica
Monte Carlo
Rotala sp. green
Limnophila Hippuiroides
Mini Christmas moss

*Clean up crew*

I will be putting 15 amano shrimp and 20 red crystal shrimp in the tank to start with
20 clithon corona snails
6 ottocinclus

*Hardscape*

Dark seiryu stone
River wood
Dennerle Plantahunter natural Rio Xingu gravel


That's it, so I'll try and keep this updated. Had an issue straight away when performing a large water change with the wood falling and thus releasing a soil leach from the old soil making the water cloudy. I also needed to plug the gaps at the front with some more rock as the soil was escaping onto the sand. It's still not perfect on the pictures, it will just need siphoning out and fresh sand laying.


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## Djoko Sauza (16 May 2020)

Looking good! Looking forward to see how it evolves.

The thin sponge on the last tray of the oase biomaster is finer than the blue, at least in my filter. (And yes, also orange!)


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## hypnogogia (16 May 2020)

@Richard40 looking good, and looking forward to how it develops.  Never had a full tank burst on me, but had a near miss once when a new 200l started cracking as I was filling it.  Burst must be a nightmare.


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## Richard40 (16 May 2020)

hypnogogia said:


> Burst must be a nightmare.


Yes it’s not the most pleasant. Luckily I was home due to lockdown otherwise I’d have come home to dead fish and shrimp and my laminate floor would have been ruined. Fortunately I only lost about 10 fish and couple of amano’s. I managed to save them first into a bucket and then quickly grab as many towels to soak up the water. When you store towels in your cupboards from years ago and wonder why you never throw them it’s because of these days 🤣🤣🤣.


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## Deano3 (16 May 2020)

What a nightmare sorry to hear about the tank. That is some great hardware  stunning tank and equipment looking forward to following this. Aquascaper 900 is a great tank i think,maybe one day i will get one 

Best of luck and keep us updated. 

Dean

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk


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## Richard40 (22 May 2020)

Hi, so the plants are growing in. It’s been a week since planting. I have ordered more plants to fill in some gaps but noticed a few leaves showing some deficiency as they are turning yellow. I’ve attached pics.
The tank has had 50-60% water changes for a week. Using EI ferts, micro and macro alternative days.
Light is on for 6 hours @ 60%.


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## milla (22 May 2020)

The ones that are turning yellow are all crypts.  Nothing to worry about its normal the emersed grown leaves will all go this way evetually.     It's the new growth you will need to keep an eye on for deficiances not the old emersed growth . 
You can remove the bad leaves if you want.


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## hypnogogia (22 May 2020)

@Richard40 looking good


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## Richard40 (28 May 2020)

So I’ve planted some more plants today, some more crypts, Hydrocotyle Vertilicata, Staurogyne Repens. 
Have trimmed the crypts right down to prevent melt so won’t take any pics until they have re grown in.
My Anubias seem to be really struggling, they are at the front and I wedged their roots in between rocks, but they seem to be melting and rotting. Should I not plant Anubias in this way? The bucephalandra is the same but doing fine. Reflection not great in this sunshine. 
.


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## Ady34 (28 May 2020)

Richard40 said:


> Anubias seem to be really struggling, they are at the front and I wedged their roots in between rocks, but they seem to be melting and rotting. Should I not plant Anubias in this way?


They unfortunately do this sometime. I have had several new plants do this recently and over the years and it is extremely frustrating and nobody seems to know why. I suspect something in transit temperature related but that is purely speculation. Your only hope is to remove all dead leaves and rhizome. Cut back to any good structure and re plant. You may be lucky and save some of the plant.


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## Richard40 (28 May 2020)

Yeh they have nearly all done this now. Glad to hear it’s not something I’ve not done. They aren’t in direct light either.
Most other plants growing in well especially the Rotala Green.


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## Richard40 (30 May 2020)

Update on the tank, I added 20 snails (not Clithon Corona, even though I ordered CC) as cant get them anywhere at a reasonable price. I ordered them off Kew Aquatics but they are just an assortment of Nerite snails so will have to do for now.

Had to trim more of the Willissii as the leaves had started to turn yellow.

Was using my in tank diffuser for CO2 as had to wait for the new CO2 art diffuser to come back in stock and then fit it. This was fitted yesterday. So far so good. Drop checker turning a nice lime green colour at lights on and staying lime green when lights off. I’ve noticed the pressure on my fire extinguisher has gone below 300, so I’m taking that to be refilled on Monday for a fiver. 👍🏻

Lighting wise I was following AG method of 6 hours for the first 2 weeks and 8 hours after. However, as I’ve just planted more plants this last week, I’ve postponed moving to 8 hours for another week to allow the new plants to bed in. The same with the intensity. I was moving that up 10% every 5 days. Again, I don’t want to put plants in on 70% straight away so I’ve delayed at 60% for another 5 days. 

Water changes I’m meant to be moving to once every 3 days, but sticking with another week of once every second day, purely because of the new plants planted this week. Bought some 16/22mm long pipe which now drains faster than my hosepipe straight to my garden making these far easier. My amino shrimp go mental during a water change, racing about all over the place, then they settle down.

I have put some root tabs into the soil which I purchased this week, these are Aquario Neo root tabs St.long.

My skimmer is doing my head in, I find it so annoying that EA don’t sell these seperately if you break one and therefore I ordered one from eBay. The part that skims and inserts into the main part I don’t think is thick enough so any decent amount of flow and if bobs up and down and sometimes submerges itself and the filter makes noises as if it’s struggling. As a result I’ve had to turn the flow down to stop this before I can afford a new EA set. I need the skimmer as the tank is in a room where I have bifolds and therefore I do get particles floating on top and also I have 4 cats which some cat hairs do manage to again find their way to the surface.

EA come on sort it out and sell these separately so if someone breaks them in the future they aren’t forking out £60! As if it’s not expensive as it is!!!! 👎🏻

I have no ammonia or nitrite and a small amount of nitrates in the tank when tested this week and at the moment zero algae. I’m still dosing Seachem stability everyday until the bottle runs out, then I’ll be dosing Seachem Pristine again until the bottle runs out.

I’m cleaning the pre filter on my Oase 600 every two weeks and the main part every 4 weeks. Glasswork and pipes I’m cleaning every 3 weeks. 

I’ve also fitted some JBL double tap connectors to help with maintenance and disconnecting pipes and glasswork to be cleaned.

First fish have been ordered from Apisto Aquatics, waiting a full 4 weeks until they go in. They will then stay in the tank for 2 weeks, then I will move my saved fish from my disaster from the 60P in there.


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## Ady34 (30 May 2020)

All sounds good.
Maybe try and sell the other single inlet lily pipe in the sales section once the new set arrives to recoup some funds? I guess it’s frustrating that you can’t buy glass inlets and outlets seperately but sods law would dictate that if you bought singly, you would break the other the next day 
Will look forward to the fish introduction.
Cheerio,


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## cbaum86 (30 May 2020)

Richard40 said:


> Update on the tank, I added 20 snails (not Clithon Corona, even though I ordered CC) as cant get them anywhere at a reasonable price. I ordered them off Kew Aquatics but they are just an assortment of Nerite snails so will have to do for now.



I know your pain. I've been waiting for ages for places to get them back in stock, nowhere seems to have Clithon Corona in. I had a couple of zebra Nerites in my old tank but they were prolific egg layers and I'd heard the CC were less so.


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## Richard40 (30 May 2020)

Exactly why I wanted them. I’ve got some zebra Nerites in my 60P and they are prolific like you say. Might have to sell these locally and wait for Pro shrimp to start selling again.


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## Richard40 (30 May 2020)

Seeing if Kew Aquatics on Band can contact the supplier and see why I wasn’t sent the correct snail.
How many do people think is a good amount for my size tank? I feel like I’ve too many and the tank aesthetically doesn’t look as nice when you’ve got snails all over the glass 🤔


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## alto (30 May 2020)

Looking at those snails, I’d request a refund - and let Kew deal with any return shipping if they want them back 
When you online order, you expect what was ordered, or a substitution request - especially when these snails don’t have the same algae habits (though they are fine glass and wood cleaners and will do some plant work)

20 Cc snails would be the minimum for the 900, but they are much smaller (and cuter ) and very much lack the “thousand white eggs” habit

If most of the Anubias have melted - especially if there is ANY rhizome deterioration (it will feel a bit soft before the real squishiness sets in, you need to cut away all softened areas + ~1cm healthy tissue and hope that  saves the rest (use a very sharp, thin razor or similar cutting edge as you want to minimize any physical damage to the rhizome) - I’d request replacements 
I’ve always thought of most Anubias sp. as being extremely resilient until shipments began arriving  and melting  within a couple days to couple weeks  
(Supplier immediately credited or replaced plants, but this was an intermittent issue for some months)
Looking online there was much discussion about “melting Anubias” (through Europe) several years ago, while no real cause was determined (at the time), many suspected some sort of virus, as when a new plant melted shortly after arrival, established Anubias in the tank were subsequently lost in following weeks 

I’d wait on dosing the Seachem Pristine, as it’s a “sludge” bacteria blend


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## aquascape1987 (6 Jun 2020)

Richard40 said:


> My Anubias seem to be really struggling, they are at the front and I wedged their roots in between rocks, but they seem to be melting and rotting.





Ady34 said:


> I suspect something in transit temperature related but that is purely speculation.



This is called Anubias Rot (creative naming 😆) or rhizome rot, and is something that is commonly experienced by people all over the world with this plant.

I had a real issue with it a few years ago, and I did some research (not a lot of definitive info out there) and I have successfully cured it, 3 times. When I say cured it, I mean 100 percent gone, never returning. The only times I have seen it again is on newly bought and untreated Anubias plants. The method however, is not strictly above board, however it works, so I’m going to tell you anyway, at risk of being publicly lynched, because I know how annoying and expensive this can become.

The answer is to treat with antibiotics. As I didn’t know the offending bacteria, I scavenged an anti biotic effective against every category of bacteria ( gram positive, gram negative, anaerobes etc etc ) and I nuked the Anubias in a small 8litre hospital tank. I also added pannacure dog  wormer as well, because some of my research suggested it could also be some  kind of nematode causing the problem as well.

Anyway, the result was, that one of those agents, was effective at killing whatever it is that causes this. On the affected plants, with progressively rotting rhizomes,  the rot  was completely stopped in its tracks. The cured survivors are still in my tank alive, well and rot free after 2 years


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## Richard40 (7 Jun 2020)

So where do I purchase the treatment?


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## aquascape1987 (7 Jun 2020)

Well, you can’t in the UK as antibiotics are prescription only. Only way to do it is to scavenge around friends and family, asking if  they have any untaken left overs from previous treatments with antibiotics. That’s what I did, and I amassed quite a lot of different types. You’d be surprised if you ask around, how many people don’t finish antibiotic courses and have the leftovers kicking around in their medical drawer. If you do it you need to research the different types, and try to get one of all of the different classes to add, that way you are creating a broad spectrum treatment. As I said, no one actually knows what type of bacteria causes it. The pannacure wormer is somewhat easier to buy. Think I bought mine online


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## X3NiTH (8 Jun 2020)

Anubias can melt for many reasons outside of acclimating to new growing conditions but If you suspect you have Burrowing Nematode Disease (Radolphus Similis is the main culprit but there are others) the easiest off the shelf medicant to use would be eSHa NDX as it’s a very effective nematocide, active ingredient is Levamisole.

Pannacur (fenbendazole) is poorly soluble in water if you use the granules. Still good enough to use though.

If the Nematodes have deeply invaded plant tissue and the nematocide of choice didn’t work then you need to destroy the plant, further remedial action for deep tissue infestation in plant tissue is a 54c bath for around 5mins, for me this lead to 99% of affected plant destruction, some Anubia rhizome survived and regrew but since it was left on a windowsill and I forgot it dried out (probably for the best).


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## aquascape1987 (8 Jun 2020)

X3NiTH said:


> Anubias can melt for many reasons outside of acclimating to new growing conditions but If you suspect you have Burrowing Nematode Disease (Radolphus Similis is the main culprit but there are others) the easiest off the shelf medicant to use would be eSHa NDX as it’s a very effective nematocide, active ingredient is Levamisole.
> 
> Pannacur (fenbendazole) is poorly soluble in water if you use the granules. Still good enough to use though.
> 
> If the Nematodes have deeply invaded plant tissue and the nematocide of choice didn’t work then you need to destroy the plant, further remedial action for deep tissue infestation in plant tissue is a 54c bath for around 5mins, for me this lead to 99% of affected plant destruction, some Anubia rhizome survived and regrew but since it was left on a windowsill and I forgot it dried out (probably for the best).



So do you think it is a nematode, rather than bacteria that causes this then? If so would the critter be visible, or microscopic? I only ask because I’ve never actually seen anything when I have had this before. The only visible symptom being the decomposition of the plant.

I think next time I encounter this, I’m going to try treating with just the wormer, and if successful, would suggest the nematode as the likely culprit


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## X3NiTH (8 Jun 2020)

Bacteria are mainly opportunists and feed on broken down tissue so not a direct cause and can be generally discounted. Poor nutrition over a long period of time will take out Anubias also very low light levels (Bucephalandra win this fight easily). Rapid changes in Alkalinity on an upward trend also triggers melt leading to rhizome destruction, took mine less than a week for complete obliteration going from 0KH to above 12, it happened in one go when I had a CEC reversal in my substrate due to a huge micro overdose.

Nematodes can only be positively identified by microscopy, but some can be large enough to be noted with a magnifying glass (or macro photography).

It’s best avoided broadcast dosing Antibiotics into a free environment as an adjunctive therapy.


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## Richard40 (22 Jun 2020)

So an update on my tank. It’s 6 weeks old on Friday. 
Last Wednesday I put 15 Clithon Corona snails in from Tropco, very cool tiny little snail.
I also controversially added 10, yes 10 German Blue Rams. Plus 7 Ottocinclus.

So far so good, all Rams been sifting the front and side sand daily and eating there with pellet, algae wafers and bloodworm.

Otto’s are very active, sticking to the glass, shoaling around together and chilling on the large balansae leaves, swaying in the flow. I felt that the tank was mature enough, algae on the glass and some of the rocks, snails were multiplying without any food being introduced! Ottos had been in the LFS since before lockdown, so they had full bellies, were very active and feeding well.

I’m leaving these in for 2 weeks before I add anymore fish in the tank. There are plenty of bushy areas with the stem plants at the back now so any fish that need to get away can do and quickly. 

Only problem I had was with the level of CO2. Had to really reduce the amount and increase surface agitation, which I’ve talked about already on a separate thread. Rams were struggling with it, every two days I’m attempting to turn the BFS up very slightly and seeing how they are. 

I’m on a weekly water change now, I attempted to glue some Mini Pelia at the weekend from Buttons, but struggled a little, it will need some extra glue next water change to pin it down in places. I did probably a 70-80% water change and think I’ll continue to do this amount each week.

I bought a Meat thermometer which seems to be accurate and easy to use to test the water temp and also the water going in from the bucket in the sink which is pumped in.

Temp is at 24.5 degrees and the Rams are absolutely fine, colouring up nicely. 

Plant wise everything growing well, but the lucens and Willissii leaves turning spotty yellow colour from new growth, so I’ve upped the dose of macro and micro to see if this helps. Lighting is at 70% for 8 hours.


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## Deano3 (22 Jun 2020)

Wow some amazing growth, have you stuck to the recomendations of the aquarium plant food EI and only dosed what they recomend?

And what BPS is your co2 mate

Thanks dean

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## castle (12 Jul 2020)

aquascape1987 said:


> Well, you can’t in the UK as antibiotics are prescription only. Only way to do it is to scavenge around friends and family, asking if  they have any untaken left overs from previous treatments with antibiotics. That’s what I did, and I amassed quite a lot of different types.



And then you tell them off. Tell them to always finish their course!


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## hypnogogia (12 Jul 2020)

And we wonder why antibiotic resistance is in the rise...


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## Onoma1 (12 Jul 2020)

hypnogogia said:


> And we wonder why antibiotic resistance is in the rise...



I had to read this twice.  Couldn't quite believe that someone could do do this. Sorry...don't want to lynch anyone. This may be helpful to understand why thus isn't  a good choice https://www.who.int/news-room/fact-sheets/detail/antibiotic-resistance


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## hypnogogia (12 Jul 2020)

Onoma1 said:


> I had to read this twice


Probably because of the obvious typo that I just spotted


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## Nick72 (12 Jul 2020)

Hi @Richard40 

Just found this thread and your tank is coming along nicely.

Keeping 10 GBR in 190 litres is a way to go, it may  bring down aggression due to density much in the same way it does for larger Cichlids, and if not it may at least spread the aggression around a larger group.

I'll be interested to hear how it works out.

You seem to have a lot of females, I only spotted 1 male in your photos.  Perhaps you have more males that simply were not in the photos.

Unfortunately GBR cannot survive long at 24.5c, it's too cold for them and will lower their immune system, which in turn will make them susceptible to any number of illnesses.

They really need 29c to thrive.  

I would really recommend that you increase the temperature of your tank for the sake of the GBR.


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## Richard40 (13 Jul 2020)

Deano3 said:


> Wow some amazing growth, have you stuck to the recomendations of the aquarium plant food EI and only dosed what they recomend?
> 
> And what BPS is your co2 mate
> 
> ...


Yes I’ve slightly increased the dose of EI by 5ml every day. BPS was on fairly high, wouldn’t be able to count it, but had to reduce it as GBR’s we’re struggling before the end of the photo period.  
I did put root capsules in the soil before I planted and added these all over. I’ve had to cut down the Hippuiroides and Rotala Green as they were getting crazy. Some of the Crypts taking a while to grow though, nearer to the right hand side, I think the Rotala green was not allowing the light to get through to them.


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## Deano3 (14 Jul 2020)

Richard40 said:


> Yes I’ve slightly increased the dose of EI by 5ml every day. BPS was on fairly high, wouldn’t be able to count it, but had to reduce it as GBR’s we’re struggling before the end of the photo period.
> I did put root capsules in the soil before I planted and added these all over. I’ve had to cut down the Hippuiroides and Rotala Green as they were getting crazy. Some of the Crypts taking a while to grow though, nearer to the right hand side, I think the Rotala green was not allowing the light to get through to them.


Thanks for that i think i am going to leave out rotala as its crazy in my 45p grows too fast.

So you made up the micros and macros as the instructions said then added the dose it recomends ?

Then how long after did you start dosing a little more and if so how much more are you dosing ?

Dean



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## Richard40 (19 Jul 2020)

Yes just as per the instructions. Straight away I was adding 5-10ml more. 40ml per day standard amount. Bubble count I’ve had to reduce a lot because my Rams I found were always struggling around 7pm and I had to move the outlet pipe above the water to pump oxygen in. I’d say it on about 4-5 bubbles per second now.


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## aquascape1987 (1 Aug 2020)

hypnogogia said:


> And we wonder why antibiotic resistance is in the rise...


Haha, I’ve only just seen this reply . Think you need to look at it a bit more in perspective to be honest, before you start lynching. Just as I suggested someone would probably attempt to do to me for posting it in the first place. Typical of the sort of unfriendly attitude on this forum of ‘friendly experts ’ I find though, to be honest. I often find on this forum, that you ask a question, and it is quite often met with obtuse answers that seem to be designed to obstruct or part answered questions by people who you know have the full knowledge  of what is being asked,  and are purposely not giving  the full information (if answered at all). As if it pains them to actually give you the knowledge that they have,  for some bizarre warped reason!If you aren’t one of the guys that are in ‘the clique’, you tend to not get the info or response you are seeking on this site... It’s pathetic really, like primary school playground politics. Statement drawn from experience of being on this site and observing and participating for  6 years now! Not everyone, but I feel it is quite pervasive.

Anyway, the reason I stuck my neck out and answered this question at the risk of lynching, is because I know for a fact that this cures this common issue of rot that  you get with anubias. A condition with this plant that 99% of what  you read online about people’s experiences with it, suggests that it is always inevitably fatal once you have it. The reason I shared this controversial knowledge at risk of lynching  is because I have the opposite attitude of what I have just described above, that I see and experience so often on this , to quote again ‘friendly site of experts and hobbyists’ I have cured this and I wanted to help the OP before his entire tank of anubias turned to white mush.

So looking at it in perspective then... First of all, the broad spectrum antibiotics given together with the wormer works. Simple as that!  Solves the problem, 100 percent!  It resolves this common anubias issue that once you have it, is usually fatal to the plant as well as spreading to all the other anubias you have in the tank...

Secondly, the amount of antibiotic you need to to use to do this is minuscule... a small percentage of of one pill put into an 8 litre tank for one week, once only. To treat all your Anubias. It’s not like I’m suggesting you just empty in a full human 2 weeks course of multiple antibiotics into a tank, only to pour away into the watercourse a week later. I’m talking about less than 100mg of antibiotic, total combined mass of all of the different types. Once and once only. Hardly think doing that a couple of times in your whole life is contributing much to worldwide antibiotic resistance being on the rise, when really that is caused by  MILLIONS of idiots taking a full weeks or longer course  of an antibiotic at say 200mg twice or four times a day,  to try to resolve a cold or something else non bacterial. Or some other equally ludicrous example, like this  where taking antibiotics actually won’t work at all and all they are doing is indirectly feeding it into the watercourse. Or doctors and dentists  prescribing millions of courses of antibiotics for preventative reasons, just to be on the safe side. (Say for example after a wisdom tooth has been removed)
So yes, it is hardly surprising that antibiotic resistance is on the rise when you look at those examples above, but I think your statement alluding to it hardly being surprising that this issue is on the rise when talking about some aquarist like me using a tiny amount of antibiotic to resolve a one off issue, is like suggesting that it’s no surprise the the global  greenhouse effect is snowballing because of me injecting CO2 into my 90 litre tank!


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## Onoma1 (1 Aug 2020)

Onoma1 said:


> I had to read this twice.  Couldn't quite believe that someone could do do this. Sorry...don't want to lynch anyone. This may be helpful to understand why thus isn't  a good choice https://www.who.int/news-room/fact-sheets/detail/antibiotic-resistance



I apologise if my use of language offended you in anyway.  In retrospect using the word lynching (even in the context of not wanting to lynch) was unfortunate. Please accept my apologies. 

Could I reiterate that I am not in a clique, haven't seen one on this forum and have instead seen a wide divergence in views and lots of  informed discussion. Evidenced debate is an important part of this forum as us advice.

@X3NiTH provided both an expert view on an alternative approach and diagnosis of the problem in a constructive manner. This is a superb example if the types of measured and informed responses found on this forum. 

I have, however, to disagree with your point about BGA. Given that there are alternative approaches to treating BGA and global concerns about antibiotic resistance I think use of antibiotics in this context is incorrect.  I don't agree with your argument about volume and feel that use of antibiotics in this context increases risk  particularly when we combine this with large water changes:

"Waste waters contain traces of antibiotics and other compounds which can cause a selection pressure for antibiotic resistance, and even low concentrations are able to cause selection pressure."

Antibiotic-Resistance Genes in Waste Water": https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0966842X1730210X

The risk vs the benefit in my opinion just doesn't stack up.

To be more controversial, perhaps given concerns about plant pathologies across borders and between species ( see Kim et al, 2020) we should be using stronger bio security in the UK to stop the sale or import of diseased plants negating the need to use antibiotics and avoiding multiple other ancillary risks.

BTW how did you persuade your partner to let you buy a new tank after just 3 days? That must be a record ...particularly after a flood and damaged laminate! 

Kim, J.‐S., Yoon, S.‐J., Park, Y.‐J., Kim, S.‐Y. and Ryu, C.‐M. (2020), Crossing the kingdom border: Human diseases caused by plant pathogens. Environ Microbiol, 22: 2485-2495. doi:10.1111/1462-2920.15028


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## hypnogogia (1 Aug 2020)

aquascape1987 said:


> Haha, I’ve only just seen this reply . Think you need to look at it a bit more in perspective to be honest, before you start lynching. Just as I suggested someone would probably attempt to do to me for posting it in the first place. Typical of the sort of unfriendly attitude on this forum of ‘friendly experts ’ I find though, to be honest. I often find on this forum, that you ask a question, and it is quite often met with obtuse answers that seem to be designed to obstruct or part answered questions by people who you know have the full knowledge  of what is being asked,  and are purposely not giving  the full information (if answered at all). As if it pains them to actually give you the knowledge that they have,  for some bizarre warped reason!If you aren’t one of the guys that are in ‘the clique’, you tend to not get the info or response you are seeking on this site... It’s pathetic really, like primary school playground politics. Statement drawn from experience of being on this site and observing and participating for  6 years now! Not everyone, but I feel it is quite pervasive.
> 
> Anyway, the reason I stuck my neck out and answered this question at the risk of lynching, is because I know for a fact that this cures this common issue of rot that  you get with anubias. A condition with this plant that 99% of what  you read online about people’s experiences with it, suggests that it is always inevitably fatal once you have it. The reason I shared this controversial knowledge at risk of lynching  is because I have the opposite attitude of what I have just described above, that I see and experience so often on this , to quote again ‘friendly site of experts and hobbyists’ I have cured this and I wanted to help the OP before his entire tank of anubias turned to white mush.
> 
> ...


Oops. First of all, I didn’t suggest a lynching and secondly my, commemt was in relation to using antibiotics from unfinished courses, which very obviously does contribute to antibiotic resistance.  I am not suggesting that antibiotics do not work as Giu had suggested.  The key to antibiotics is to always kill all the bacteria because any that survive are likely to develop resistance and then spread.  That was my very sumpfet point.


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## aquascape1987 (1 Aug 2020)

There is no need to apologise @Onoma1 , you haven’t offended me at all! And also if you read, it was me that introduced the word lynch first. In anticipation of what was likely to come.


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## aquascape1987 (1 Aug 2020)

Anyway, sorry for the rant and it is the last I’m going to comment on this


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## aquascape1987 (1 Aug 2020)

hypnogogia said:


> Oops. First of all, I didn’t suggest a lynching and secondly my, commemt was in relation to using antibiotics from unfinished courses, which very obviously does contribute to antibiotic resistance.  I am not suggesting that antibiotics do not work as Giu had suggested.  The key to antibiotics is to always kill all the bacteria because any that survive are likely to develop resistance and then spread.  That was my very sumpfet point.



What would you have me do then? Demand that these people immediately down the last one or two missed Doxycycline pills from their course of antibiotics, that they didn’t complete all by themselves weeks/months/ years before? Would that have helped to ensure that they had got rid of their Chlamydia or whatever other pathogen that they had taken the course for in the first place? I think not! Let’s not bend or misconstrue the truth here. I didn’t ask these people to miss a couple of pills from their courses so I could harvest them. I harvested pills that they had already forgotten/chosen not to take by themselves, some time before the event


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## hypnogogia (1 Aug 2020)

aquascape1987 said:


> What would you have me do then? Demand that these people immediately down the last one or two missed Doxycycline pills from their course of antibiotics, that they didn’t complete all by themselves weeks/months/ years before? Would that have helped to ensure that they had got rid of their Chlamydia or whatever other pathogen that they had taken the course for in the first place? I think not! Let’s not bend or misconstrue the truth here. I didn’t ask these people to miss a couple of pills from their courses so I could harvest them. I harvested pills that they had already forgotten/chosen not to take by themselves, some time before the event


You really are a bit touchy.  I think we have gone as far as we can here.


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## aquascape1987 (1 Aug 2020)

👍


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## hypnogogia (1 Aug 2020)

@Richard40 sorry, didn’t mean to hijack your thread with the antibiotic debacle. Hope your tank is doing well.


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## Ghettofarmulous (7 Sep 2020)

How is your tank going


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