# Growth and algae problems



## drjack (18 Sep 2020)

*TANK:* Juwel Vision 180L ; Lighting: Juwel MultiLux LED Light Unit 92 cm, Day 19W - 2185 Lumens - 9000K, Nature 19W - 2185 Lumens - 6500K; Substrate: Caribsea Eco-Complete; Filtration: Juwel supplied Bioflow 3 internal (1000 lph) plus Eheim Ecco Pro 300 external (750 lph)

*FISH 40:* Panda Corydoras 2 ; Flag Tail Panda Corydoras 1 ; Cardinals 6 ; Glass Tetras 3 ; Rummy Nose Tetras 1; Kerri Blue Emperor Tetras 4; Congo Tetras 3; Dwarf Neon Blue Rainbows 2; Hengeli Raspora 6; White Fin Bentosi 2; Otocinclos 2; Marble Hatchets 2; Siamese Algae Eaters 2; Amano Shrimp 4; Assassin Snails

*PLANTS 90:* Aponogeton ulvaceus Bulb 2; Crinum Calamistratum 1; Nymphoides Hydrophylla "Taiwan" 10; Bacopa Caroliniana 10; Microsorum Pteropus 3, Cryptocoryene Undulata 'Broad Leaves' 9; Cryptocoryene Undulatus Brown 21; Alternanthera Reinckii “Pink” (Roseafolia) 10; Crinum Thaianum 1; Microsorum Pteropus Windelov 2; Limnobium Laevigatum 20

I have a low tech tank, no CO2. About a year ago I stopped 50 litre monthly water changes using RO water and just used conditioned (PRIME) tap water. I live in East Anglia and the water is described as very hard - total hardness 21odH. Also, about that time my T5 lights died and I had to replace them with a LED light unit. I am currently fertilising the tank with 20ml TNC complete weekly. I checked with the UKAPS calculator and that seemed about right.

*Problems:* since the enforced change of lighting and also maybe due to the change in water my tank became unstable. Plants that were fine now struggled and I have had to replace a lot of them with new types. I also have various algae problems, brown on the internal filter housing and green spot algae on the glass and leaves see photo. I have struggled to get the lighting above 5hrs 45mins/day it seems to increase algae growth. The plants never seem healthy, seem weedy, the cryptocoryenes don’t become dense maybe 5 to 6 leaves on each plant and change colour frequently a lack of stable growth. The other plants such as the Windelovs become “dirty” with algae at the ends of their leaves.

Does my lighting period and 20ml weekly of TNC complete with a 50L water change monthly seem okay? Or what changes would anyone recommend to stop the algae and create plants that are cleaner, more dense and healthy looking? I sort of feel it has to be ferts or lighting, but if I reduce the lighting any more I might affect plant growth.

Any help or advice really appreciated.


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## dw1305 (18 Sep 2020)

Hi all, 





drjack said:


> I have a low tech tank, no CO2. About a year ago I stopped 50 litre monthly water changes using RO water and just used conditioned (PRIME) tap water. I live in East Anglia and the water is described as very hard - total hardness 21odH.


Welcome back. Can we have a full tank shot? 

What do your _Limnobium laevigatum_ (Amazon Frogbit) plants <"look like">? They aren't CO2 or light limited so would help remove those from the equation.

It could be a nutrient issue if your plants grew much better before? The hardness in your tap water is from dissolved chalk (CaCO3), so you may have some issues with <"iron (Fe)">, magnesium (Mg) and potentially potassium (K).

cheers Darrel


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## drjack (18 Sep 2020)

Hi Darrel, Many of the plants are new, the previous plants degraded and had to be replaced. Tank shot attached... following monthly water change...


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## drjack (18 Sep 2020)

Sorry missed the question on  _Limnobium laevigatum_ . The numbers are declining and reducing in size, they have really thinned out. If I increase the TNC complete dosing to 40ml/week they stage a comeback. But that is twice what I should be dosing.... so I am not sure I should do that on a regular basis... or maybe I should... I have a lot of doubt about what I should stick to a a regular ferting regime.


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## dw1305 (18 Sep 2020)

Hi all,





drjack said:


> Many of the plants are new, the previous plants degraded and had to be replaced.


Those look OK. 





drjack said:


> the question on _Limnobium laevigatum_ . The numbers are declining and reducing in size, they have really thinned out.


Perfect, that is what we need to know. 

You can discount CO2 and light so that just leaves the mineral nutrients. Have a look at <"Duckweed Index says">, and see if that looks like your Frogbit?

cheers Darrel


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## drjack (18 Sep 2020)

Darrel thanks very much for this. Spot on, that's what is happening to mine. If I get  some of <"Chempak Sequestered Iron">  you mentioned do I need to add Potassium as well, I have Seachem Flourish Potassium and should I also add Magnesium, I have APF MgSO4.  Or should I not add all 3 at 1 go?
When my TNC complete runs out I intend to go back to dry salts anyway.


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## dw1305 (18 Sep 2020)

Hi all, 





drjack said:


> Darrel thanks very much for this. Spot on, that's what is happening to mine. If I get  some of <"Chempak Sequestered Iron">  you mentioned do I need to add Potassium as well, I have Seachem Flourish Potassium and should I also add Magnesium, I have APF MgSO4.  Or should I not add all 3 at 1 go?
> When my TNC complete runs out I intend to go back to dry salts anyway.


Because you had problems when you went from RO to hard water it was likely that it was a problem with insoluble compounds forming, and a lot of iron compounds are insoluble in harder water.

Because iron isn't mobile in the plant it <"will take a while"> for the plants to perk up.

The TNC complete should be fine, you can add a bit more <"Epsom Salts and potassium (K)"> if you have them, it won't do any harm. There is nothing wrong with "TNC Complete" (or "Seachem Flourish Potassium"), they are just <"expensive options">.

cheers Darrel


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## drjack (18 Sep 2020)

Darrel thanks for the advice and guidance. I really appreciate it. Cheers, David


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