# Best all around substrate for Monte Carlo in low tech tank?



## DD1880 (15 Aug 2019)

Hi everyone! I was thinking about doing a carpet of Monte Carlo or similar looking carpet plant and was wondering what was the best complete substrate that would last years. I know aquasoil would be the best but would rather not have to change it all out after a year or two. Is there a aquasoil that last longer than that? I was hoping not to dose co2 either. Don’t think I’m ready for that yet haha. Would it even be possible with the substrate I have now? I dose Nilocg thrive 3 times a week and have a Chihiros rgb 60 set at 50% now but am slowly raising it. Thank you for any suggestions and help!


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## Tim Harrison (15 Aug 2019)

I think you'll struggle to grow a compact and aesthetically pleasing carpet of MC without CO2, or any other carpet plant for that matter. I doubt you'll get much satisfaction with LC either.
As for substrate, the plants will benefit from a nutritious substrate but you should water column dose fertz as well. That way the substrate will not become depleted of nutrients and will act as a buffer for the occasional missed dose etc, and you'll be feeding the plants at both sites; roots and foliage.
I would recommend ADA AS and Tropica AS.


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## DD1880 (15 Aug 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> I think you'll struggle to grow a compact and aesthetically pleasing carpet of MC without CO2, or any other carpet plant for that matter. I doubt you'll get much satisfaction with LC either.
> As for substrate, the plants will benefit from a nutritious substrate but you should water column dose fertz as well. That way the substrate will not become depleted of nutrients and will act as a buffer for the occasional missed dose etc, and you'll be feeding the plants at both sites; roots and foliage.
> I would recommend ADA AS and Tropica AS.


Thank you for the info! How long would the Tropica AS last? I would rather not have to change out the dirt every year or two if that’s what was necessary! Would CaribSea eco complete be a ok alternative? I would continue my dose of Nilocg thrive 3 times a week. Would that be sufficient? Also would I need a cap with the Tropica and if so what’s a good cheap option to cap the dirt? I do like the black substrate look.


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## Tim Harrison (15 Aug 2019)

Like I wrote if you water column fertz dose the AS will last indefinitely. There are two Tropica substrate products on the market the one I recommended does not require capping https://tropica.com/en/plant-care/aquarium-soil/aquarium-soil/

I'm not familiar with Nilocg thrive, but from what I can gather it's an all in one macro and micro nutrient, so should be fine. I'd follow the instructions and watch your plants for signs of deficiency. Obviously, if there are any increase the dose. Also check out Tom Barrs Non CO2 Methods


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## DD1880 (15 Aug 2019)

Thank you so much!


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## DD1880 (15 Aug 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> Like I wrote if you water column fertz dose the AS will last indefinitely. There are two Tropica substrate products on the market the one I recommended does not require capping https://tropica.com/en/plant-care/aquarium-soil/aquarium-soil/
> 
> I'm not familiar with Nilocg thrive, but from what I can gather it's an all in one macro and micro nutrient, so should be fine. I'd follow the instructions and watch your plants for signs of deficiency. Obviously, if there are any increase the dose. Also check out Tom Barrs Non CO2 Methods


Thank you! Any idea how much Tropica AS I’d need for a 29 gallon that’s 30 inches long by 12 inches wide?


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## Tim Harrison (15 Aug 2019)

At least 2 x 9 litre bags. You need at least 3cm at the front and to be able to bank it a lot deeper toward the back to achieve a better sense of perspective.


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## DD1880 (15 Aug 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> At least 2 x 9 litre bags. You need at least 3cm at the front and to be able to bank it a lot deeper toward the back to achieve a better sense of perspective.


Ok thanks again for all the help!


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## DD1880 (16 Aug 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> Like I wrote if you water column fertz dose the AS will last indefinitely. There are two Tropica substrate products on the market the one I recommended does not require capping https://tropica.com/en/plant-care/aquarium-soil/aquarium-soil/
> 
> I'm not familiar with Nilocg thrive, but from what I can gather it's an all in one macro and micro nutrient, so should be fine. I'd follow the instructions and watch your plants for signs of deficiency. Obviously, if there are any increase the dose. Also check out Tom Barrs Non CO2 Methods


When setting up the tank and adding soil any tricks to minimize a mess or huge cloud of muck? Also when cleaning any tricks to minimize a mess! Thanks since I’m new to this soil planted tank thing!


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## DD1880 (16 Aug 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> At least 2 x 9 litre bags. You need at least 3cm at the front and to be able to bank it a lot deeper toward the back to achieve a better sense of perspective.


Thanks for all the helpful info! One more question, I think haha! My big java fern that I have has been growing in leaves that aren’t as uniformly green and straight. Some are even twisted looking as the new growth comes in. And some of the new leaves were looking great but now I notice little brown spots on the new leaves that still have a ways to go to be full grown. Any ideas on why it’s doing that? I did go from a old fluorescent bulb to the Chihiros rgb 60. And I’m dosing ferts now when I never used to! Also I have the red root floaters covering almost the whole top. Thanks for any help!


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## Tim Harrison (16 Aug 2019)

It could be too high a light compared to the available CO2 or lack thereof, https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/microsorum-java-fern-brown-spots.49565/ there are other similar threads.


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## Iain Sutherland (16 Aug 2019)

Running your light at 50% without co2 will likely cause a few issues.. I'd suggest not increasing light as you said want to....
Carpet of mc will go fine without co2 but good flow will be the key. 
Tropica soil will last indefinitely, it may be mushy underneath but top will be good for years to come.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


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## DD1880 (16 Aug 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> It could be too high a light compared to the available CO2 or lack thereof, maybe you need to turn your light down. If you haven't already, buy a dimming switch. Take a look at this https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/microsorum-java-fern-brown-spots.49565/ there are other similar threads.
> 
> But it's like Marcel mentions in the linked thread, it's a plant that is supposed to be easy to grow but often has me scratching my head. I don't think it does change very well. I think Marcel is also right when he says it grows slowly and therefore adapts slowly to changing conditions, but adapt it invariably does since it's a tough little plant. The key therefore is perhaps to keep its environment as stable as possible.


I was hoping that since I have the top covered about 80% in red root floaters I could keep the java fern from getting to much light! I was hoping to get the rrf red roots at least and maybe red tops since that’s why I got them. I like that look. They are still green and have almost flat tops to the leaves. That’s why I was raising the light. I have the commander one which works quite well btw if anyone’s wondering! Thanks again for the helpful info!


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## DD1880 (16 Aug 2019)

Iain Sutherland said:


> Running your light at 50% without co2 will likely cause a few issues.. I'd suggest not increasing light as you said want to....
> Carpet of mc will go fine without co2 but good flow will be the key.
> Tropica soil will last indefinitely, it may be mushy underneath but top will be good for years to come.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


Thank you for the help! If the red root floaters cover the top would that help the java fern and the co2? I was trying to get red roots and tops which I have neither haha! They do grow quick and even flower. Just no red roots which is at least what I got them for!


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## DD1880 (16 Aug 2019)

Iain Sutherland said:


> Running your light at 50% without co2 will likely cause a few issues.. I'd suggest not increasing light as you said want to....
> Carpet of mc will go fine without co2 but good flow will be the key.
> Tropica soil will last indefinitely, it may be mushy underneath but top will be good for years to come.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


Is there a way to do high light without added co2? Thanks for any helpful info!


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## Iain Sutherland (16 Aug 2019)

DD1880 said:


> Thank you for the help! If the red root floaters cover the top would that help the java fern and the co2? I was trying to get red roots and tops which I have neither haha! They do grow quick and even flower. Just no red roots which is at least what I got them for!


Sorry I hadn't loaded the pictures before, looking at them now I'd remove a lot of floaters as you have  what looks to be very little light getting through.
An mc carpet stills needs reasonable direct light... as high as you can without causing algae issues higher up....

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


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## DD1880 (16 Aug 2019)

Iain Sutherland said:


> Sorry I hadn't loaded the pictures before, looking at them now I'd remove a lot of floaters as you have  what looks to be very little light getting through.
> An mc carpet stills needs reasonable direct light... as high as you can without causing algae issues higher up....
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


No worries. Thanks for the help!


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## DD1880 (16 Aug 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> I think you'll struggle to grow a compact and aesthetically pleasing carpet of MC without CO2, or any other carpet plant for that matter. I doubt you'll get much satisfaction with LC either.
> As for substrate, the plants will benefit from a nutritious substrate but you should water column dose fertz as well. That way the substrate will not become depleted of nutrients and will act as a buffer for the occasional missed dose etc, and you'll be feeding the plants at both sites; roots and foliage.
> I would recommend ADA AS and Tropica AS.


Would say miracle gro organic soil capped with sand do the same or is ada as or Tropica as just that much better in the long run? Also what’s the difference between ada AS regular or ada as light? Thanks again for all the help!


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## Tim Harrison (16 Aug 2019)

I think that soil is often overlooked as a substrate or medium for growing aquatic plants. But it's the mark one version, everything else is just a variation on a theme of nature. So, yes I'll stick my neck out and say that a decent soil substrate will do just as well as AS, if not better, given the right conditions...

As far as I know AS light is not impregnated with as many nutrients. The info is out there tho'. Take a look at what Jurijs has to say about it...



Btw, Iain has proven that an MC carpet is possible without CO2, but he's got massively green fingers, and is very talented and experienced  Give it a go nevertheless, if you're up for a challenge


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## DD1880 (16 Aug 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> I think that soil is often overlooked as a substrate or medium for growing aquatic plants. But it's the mark one version, everything else is just a variation on a theme of nature. So, yes I'll stick my neck out and say that a decent soil substrate will do just as well as AS, if not better, given the right conditions...
> 
> As far as I know AS light is not impregnated with as many nutrients. The info is out there tho'. Take a look at what Jurijs has to say about it...
> 
> ...



Thank you for all this info cause there are some forums I’ve been on (won’t name names) that don’t respond at all some times. This is by far one of the best forums for detailed info from experienced people! Would you say miracle gro organic soil would last indefinitely like ada or Tropica if I water dosed ferts also? And I am up for a challenge. I haven’t killed any plants yet even though I have easy plants like java fern and anubis, not sure which type of Anubis it is haha!


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## Tim Harrison (17 Aug 2019)

No worries, and thanks. UKAPS is one of the remaining few forums that is still very active, and maybe you've hit the nail on the head as to why.

To be a little more precise, it'll last indefinitely if the substrate cap has an average grain size of around 3mm, and if you water column dose fertz, like you mention.
3mm grain size will allow for water movement, nutrient transference, and gas exchange, and in turn encourage a healthy oxidised microzone.

And aside from that, water column fertz dosing combined with a good soil substrate (with a high CEC) allows you to feed plants at both sites, so just makes sound horticultural sense anyway.


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## DD1880 (17 Aug 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> No worries, and thanks. UKAPS is one of the remaining few forums that is still very active, and maybe you've hit the nail on the head as to why.
> 
> To be a little more precise, it'll last indefinitely if the substrate cap has an average grain size of around 3mm, and if you water column dose fertz, like you mention.
> 3mm grain size will allow for water movement, nutrient transference, and gas exchange, and in turn encourage a healthy oxidised microzone.
> ...


Thanks again! Has anyone or you used straight organic soul with a sand cap? Is it to messy or harder to do water changes without causing a cloudy mess and that’s why you use Tropica as or ada? Sorry for all the questions but I rarely get all these questions answered haha I hope to have the aqua scapes you guys have one day!


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## Tim Harrison (17 Aug 2019)

I've used a few different soil substrates in the past, mostly garden compost mixed with moss peat.
I've also used sand caps of all different grain sizes and depths and all have worked well in addition to water column fertz dosing.
The brands in the US will be different but follow this link to the Walstad Method and scroll down and you'll find a list of suitable compost brands available to you.

As for disturbance, if you're worried use a soil retainer or gravel tidy, further info can be found in my tutorial, the one I linked earlier.


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## DD1880 (17 Aug 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> I've used a few different soil substrates in the past, mostly garden compost mixed with moss peat.
> I've also used sand caps of all different grain sizes and depths and all have worked well in addition to water column fertz dosing.
> The brands in the US will be different but follow this link to the Walstad Method and scroll down and you'll find a list of suitable compost brands available to you.
> 
> As for disturbance, if you're worried use a soil retainer or gravel tidy, further info can be found in my tutorial, the one I linked earlier.


Once again thank you. I feel like I have all the info I need to try this dirt tank method! I may have ran out of questions, for now! Thank you for the detailed info. I will definitely suggest UKAPS to anyone that’s new to this planted tank thing!


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## DD1880 (17 Aug 2019)

DD1880 said:


> Once again thank you. I feel like I have all the info I need to try this dirt tank method! I may have ran out of questions, for now! Thank you for the detailed info. I will definitely suggest UKAPS to anyone that’s new to this planted tank thing!


Sorry but what tutorial did you link about capping soil and what to use to cap it? You sent me a few good links can’t find that one. Thank you, again!


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## DD1880 (17 Aug 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> I've used a few different soil substrates in the past, mostly garden compost mixed with moss peat.
> I've also used sand caps of all different grain sizes and depths and all have worked well in addition to water column fertz dosing.
> The brands in the US will be different but follow this link to the Walstad Method and scroll down and you'll find a list of suitable compost brands available to you.
> 
> As for disturbance, if you're worried use a soil retainer or gravel tidy, further info can be found in my tutorial, the one I linked earlier.





Tim Harrison said:


> I've used a few different soil substrates in the past, mostly garden compost mixed with moss peat.
> I've also used sand caps of all different grain sizes and depths and all have worked well in addition to water column fertz dosing.
> The brands in the US will be different but follow this link to the Walstad Method and scroll down and you'll find a list of suitable compost brands available to you.
> 
> As for disturbance, if you're worried use a soil retainer or gravel tidy, further info can be found in my tutorial, the one I linked earlier.



Sorry but what tutorial did you link about capping soil and what to use to cap it? You sent me a few good links can’t find that one. Thank you, again!


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## DD1880 (17 Aug 2019)

And the Walstad method link you sent was very informative and gave me everything I need to know to succeed in using dirt! Thanks!


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## Tim Harrison (17 Aug 2019)

Oh, haha...might have got this thread mixed up with another. Anyway, I meant this tutorial The Soil Substrate or Dirted Planted Tank - A How to Guide


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## DD1880 (17 Aug 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> Oh, haha...might have got this thread mixed up with another. Anyway, I meant this tutorial The Soil Substrate or Dirted Planted Tank - A How to Guide


Thank you Tim! Once I break this tank down when I move I will do a detailed journal to let you guys know how it goes! I can’t wait dirt the tank! Just hope I don’t disturb the soil to much and am able to keep crystal clear water haha!


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## DD1880 (17 Aug 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> Oh, haha...might have got this thread mixed up with another. Anyway, I meant this tutorial The Soil Substrate or Dirted Planted Tank - A How to Guide


Well look at that I have another question haha! I plan on using the drift wood or at least the large piece in my tank now that is actually attacked to a piece of slate to hold it down. Will that be a problem putting that or rocks on top of the soil? When I was reading the Walsted method I found this. 

1 inch of medium fine gravel (or very shallow layer of sand) to cover the soil layer (the soil bacteria need oxygen, so don't smother the soil layer with rocks, driftwood, etc).       I was hoping to scape it with rocks, driftwood or both and don’t want to foul the soil! Thanks again for the help!


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## Tim Harrison (17 Aug 2019)

Sounds good, look forward t reading it. The mesh keeps things surprisingly stable, and the water clear during maintenance and even if you move plants around. Either way I'm sure it'll work out fine


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## Tim Harrison (17 Aug 2019)

DD1880 said:


> Well look at that I have another question haha! I plan on using the drift wood or at least the large piece in my tank now that is actually attacked to a piece of slate to hold it down. Will that be a problem putting that or rocks on top of the soil? When I was reading the Walsted method I found this.
> 
> 1 inch of medium fine gravel (or very shallow layer of sand) to cover the soil layer (the soil bacteria need oxygen, so don't smother the soil layer with rocks, driftwood, etc).       I was hoping to scape it with rocks, driftwood or both and don’t want to foul the soil! Thanks again for the help!


Well, it's never really been a problem for me. What tends to happen is that plant roots, especially the so called big root feeders like Echinodorus and Crypts spp., become established relatively quickly and they tend to oxygenate the rhizosphere. I've pulled Crypts out of a soil substrate with massive root systems stretching throughout the length of a 60cm tank before.


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## DD1880 (17 Aug 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> Well, it's never really been a problem for me. What tends to happen is that plant roots, especially the so called big root feeders like Echinodorus and Crypts spp., become established relatively quickly and they tend to oxygenate the rhizosphere. I've pulled Crypts out of a soil substrate with massive root systems stretching throughout the length of a 60cm tank before.


Ok good. Thanks!


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## DD1880 (17 Aug 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> Sounds good, look forward t reading it. The mesh keeps things surprisingly stable, and the water clear during maintenance and even if you move plants around. Either way I'm sure it'll work out fine


Mesh??


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## Tim Harrison (17 Aug 2019)

I make my soil retainers or gravel tidies from this Gardman Greenhouse shading material. Place it between the soil and the cap


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## DD1880 (18 Aug 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> I make my soil retainers or gravel tidies from this Gardman Greenhouse shading material. Place it between the soil and the cap


Ok thanks! Looks nice! Thanks again! Is it necessary to leave that space from the soil to the edges of the tank? Looks like you left about a inch gap all around or just the sides and the front of the tank?


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## Tim Harrison (18 Aug 2019)

Yes I think so, for two main reasons, it looks better cosmetically and also if the front gets direct sunlight you'll get a nice growth of algae, and sometimes cyanobacteria.


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## DD1880 (18 Aug 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> Yes I think so, for two main reasons, it looks better cosmetically and also if the front gets direct sunlight you'll get a nice growth of algae, and sometimes cyanobacteria.


Ahhh I got it right after I sent it! Smart. Thanks for the quick response though!


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## DD1880 (18 Aug 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> Yes I think so, for two main reasons, it looks better cosmetically and also if the front gets direct sunlight you'll get a nice growth of algae, and sometimes cyanobacteria.


What plants were you planning on growing in that gravel? I thought that was to big of gravel to plant? I like the look!


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## Tim Harrison (18 Aug 2019)

It's an old scape... High-energy soil-substrate layout


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## DD1880 (18 Aug 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> It's an old scape... High-energy soil-substrate layout


Looks nice! I noticed a bag of something in the back left corner of the tank before you put the dirt down! What was that? I’m assuming it was put there to get it higher in the back so you wouldn’t have to add to much soil? Thanks for all the help again!


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## Tim Harrison (18 Aug 2019)

Thanks, yes it is pea gravel in a filter media bag to get the height I needed for the scape.


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## Gerrypfc (24 Aug 2019)

Just setting up a new planted aquarium now after running marine for past 2-3 years. 
On my last planted aquarium I grew monte carlo carpet with ease, just using play sand as my substrate. Used easy carbo liquid Co2 and root tabs and it grew like weeds


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## DD1880 (24 Aug 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> Thanks, yes it is pea gravel in a filter media bag to get the height I needed for the scape.


Yeah I can’t wait to set up a scape when I redo this tank! Thanks again for all the help. I will post a journal when I start my dirtied tank!


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## DD1880 (24 Aug 2019)

Gerrypfc said:


> Just setting up a new planted aquarium now after running marine for past 2-3 years.
> On my last planted aquarium I grew monte carlo carpet with ease, just using play sand as my substrate. Used easy carbo liquid Co2 and root tabs and it grew like weeds


Thank you very encouraging! I really like that look of carpeted MC! I’m hoping if I dirt it and water column fert I won’t need to use root tabs! Thanks for the info! Makes me feel better trying it without co2!


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## DD1880 (24 Aug 2019)

Gerrypfc said:


> Just setting up a new planted aquarium now after running marine for past 2-3 years.
> On my last planted aquarium I grew monte carlo carpet with ease, just using play sand as my substrate. Used easy carbo liquid Co2 and root tabs and it grew like weeds


What light did you use to grow and if LED what was the brightness set at? I don’t want to risk a algae problem since I’m not using co2!


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## Gerrypfc (24 Aug 2019)

DD1880 said:


> Thank you very encouraging! I really like that look of carpeted MC! I’m hoping if I dirt it and water column fert I won’t need to use root tans! Thanks for the info! Makes me feel better trying it without co2!


I did use the easy carbo liquid Co2 stuff, and seemed to work very well. Just wanted a simple setup


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## Gerrypfc (24 Aug 2019)

DD1880 said:


> What light did you use to grow and if LED what was the brightness set at? I don’t want to risk a algae problem since I’m not using co2!


I had a dual twin t5 unit, was 110w in total if I remeber correctly.


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## DD1880 (24 Aug 2019)

Gerrypfc said:


> I had a dual twin t5 unit, was 110w in total if I remeber correctly.


Ok thanks. Yeah I think my Chihiros rgb 60 is 50w so hope that’s enough for my 29 gallon!


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## Gerrypfc (24 Aug 2019)

What are them light like? Tempted, but haven't heard of them. Had a quick look online and some saying the Chihiros A series would be better option for plants?


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## Gerrypfc (24 Aug 2019)

DD1880 said:


> Ok thanks. Yeah I think my Chihiros rgb 60 is 50w so hope that’s enough for my 29 gallon!


What's the actual length of the 60? Btw


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## DD1880 (24 Aug 2019)

Gerrypfc said:


> What are them light like? Tempted, but haven't heard of them. Had a quick look online and some saying the Chihiros A series would be better option for plants?


It’s my first led. I had a old fluorescent bulb in a hood. So I don’t know how much better they are compared to other led’s but from what I researched they have a pretty Big Bang for their buck! I instantly noticed the colors of my cardinal tetras popped more and looked great. Especially the reds! I think the a series is brighter and has a higher par but the rgb is still pretty bright with good par! I haven’t grown high light plants with it but plan on doing so! I’m currently raising the brightness to get my red root floaters red! I’m at 52% so far and I’m trying to avoid algae since I don’t use co2. I do plan on growing some red plants like Ludwigia palastrius later and carpeting Monte Carlo hopefully once I dirt the tank. Only then will I know if the light gets bright enough compared to the a series! I love the light so far!


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## DD1880 (24 Aug 2019)

Gerrypfc said:


> What's the actual length of the 60? Btw


My tank is 30 inches long and I believe it’s supposed to be good from 60 to 80cm’s. I also have the commander one hooked up to it and the sunrise/sunset function works pretty well. Especially for price I got it on AIexpress!


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## Gerrypfc (24 Aug 2019)

Just ended up picking up a ocean revive t247 full spectrum led unit on way home from work. Is primarily a marine unit, but read of people with great results using it. Blues are on seperate channel so I'll have them real low


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## DD1880 (25 Aug 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> Thanks, yes it is pea gravel in a filter media bag to get the height I needed for the scape.


Would I be able to use the old gravel I’m using now in a media bag to get height where I want it once I redo the tank and dirt it? It would be the white and river rock mix I have in my pics I’m using as substrate now. Also do you or anyone know of shading material in the states I could use to go over the dirt? We don’t have the one you use over here. Thanks again for any help.


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## Tim Harrison (25 Aug 2019)

Yes that should be fine. It looks like it's mostly inert silicates. Sorry I can't help you with a similar mesh material in the States but Google will turn up results; persistence pays off.


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## DD1880 (25 Aug 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> Yes that should be fine. It looks like it's mostly inert silicates. Sorry I can't help you with a similar mesh material in the States but Google will turn up results; persistence pays off.


No worries! Thanks for all the help. I do research, research, and then more research before I do something usually. Good to know I can repurpose the old gravel instead of buying new stuff to get height for the scape I want to do!


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## DD1880 (26 Aug 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> Yes that should be fine. It looks like it's mostly inert silicates. Sorry I can't help you with a similar mesh material in the States but Google will turn up results; persistence pays off.


Wow look at that, thought of another question. Sorry but was wondering if you also left a gap at the back of that tank with dirt you sent me the pic of? Or does the dirt go up against the glass at the back and just not the front and sides? I can’t really tell in that pic so had to ask haha!


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## Tim Harrison (26 Aug 2019)

If the back isn't in view and doesn't get any direct light then it'll be fine to place the soil against it.


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## DD1880 (26 Aug 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> If the back isn't in view and doesn't get any direct light then it'll be fine to place the soil against it.


Ok thanks for the help, again.


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## DD1880 (3 Sep 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> If the back isn't in view and doesn't get any direct light then it'll be fine to place the soil against it.


Hi Tim. I was wondering if this shading material would do the job of covering the dirt? Does it matter what the material is made of? It’s made of polyethylene I believe.


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## Tim Harrison (3 Sep 2019)

I've never used it myself by I think a few folk have used something similar to good effect.


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## DD1880 (3 Sep 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> I've never used it myself by I think a few folk have used something similar to good effect.


Ok, thanks again for the help!


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