# Lilly pipes on a Rio180



## Quetzalcoatl (9 Dec 2011)

So, as the title suggests does anyone use lilly pipes on a rio180. I was concerned that the drop of the outlet pipe would not be deep enough to hang over the side of the tank and reach below the waters surface due to the veneer that runs around the top of the tank. Unfortunately I`m stuck with my Rio until funds allow an investment in a nice optiwhite rimless, any help or pointers as to where to buy a reasonably priced set would be appreciated?   
Thanks.


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## Alastair (9 Dec 2011)

I wanted Lilly pipes on my vision 450 but there's no way the output would sit completely under water with that silly rim. I even take the water line right past the level mark but it wouldbt work. I know this as my eheim outlets won't touch putting them over the same way


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## Quetzalcoatl (9 Dec 2011)

God damn it... So pretty much a no then. I imagine the veneer on a Vision would be the same as a Rio, both being Juwels and that? What method do you use?


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## Alastair (9 Dec 2011)

You can always cut out a section where the lily pipes will go mate. You can cut it down to the same level as your other cut outs are. That wil work then. 
I have mine so the the fx5 goes from rear left blowing right, then an eheim outlet in the rear right cut out point diagonal left then a power head just below pointing front and left too. It's the only way unless I go the spray bar route


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## spyder (10 Dec 2011)

Alastair said:
			
		

> You can always cut out a section where the lily pipes will go mate. You can cut it down to the same level as your other cut outs are. That wil work then.
> I have mine so the the fx5 goes from rear left blowing right, then an eheim outlet in the rear right cut out point diagonal left then a power head just below pointing front and left too. It's the only way unless I go the spray bar route



I did the exact same thing with my 125. The spray coming from the back would put extra bends in so I went over the side with the crook. 5 mins with a junior hacksaw.


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## nayr88 (10 Dec 2011)

Stick to the spray bar, then when you have budget for the rimless opti White get the Lilly pipes to match


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## Quetzalcoatl (10 Dec 2011)

Cheers guys. I worry about sell on value of the Rio if I start hacking at it. I already sold the lightbar, and flaps to finance a luminaire upgrade. 

Funny thing is I actually had a dream last night that I went to visit my granddad and found some Perspex lilly pipes in his shed, they worked perfect....(Maybe a preminition) I also had a dream about Jessica Alba, but that`s a story for another forum?


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## Tim Harrison (10 Dec 2011)

Hi I had a similar problem with my Fluval Roma 90. I just took the whole rim off. It wasn't very hard to do, I little bit of brute force and a Stanley knife blade worked wonders; the whole thing was stuck on with silicon cement. But with a bit of patience the tank came up like it had meant to be rimless. That way if you want to sell it in the future you just pop the rim back on, intact. I doubt it would even matter that it wasn't stuck down any more since it would be easier to clean.

I then brought a luminaire from all pond solutions, and a lily pipe set from aqMagic.com http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/aquaticmagic/ ... m270.l1313 , both can be found on eBay, and both products top notch. I also ordered a set of tools. The latter is a company based in Singapore where I strongly suspect these products are manufactured for top brand companies, they probably get hold of them before they are branded and sell them at a very reasonable price. Anyway delivery didn't take long either.


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## Quetzalcoatl (10 Dec 2011)

I had thought about a complete removal of the trim. Seems like a tough task though, did you manage to remove yours with no damage?? I was worried with my heavy hands I would inflict irrepairable damage? 

I have an all ponds solution 4x39watt  luminaire. They are of good quality, however I don`t think I am getting am adequate spread of light across the full width of the tank. I feel the very front, and back suffer neglect. Without a PAR reading though I`m just guessing. I have Parvula at the front and it doesn`t seem to be doing as well as it should?

The link for the lilly pipes are appreciated mate, thanks. That is my next purchase. For sure. I have been a very lucky boy today and won an auction on Ebay for a Fluval G6...  My itinerary for equipment is nearly complete, just need the glass wear, then onto substrate, and hardscape! Hmmm.


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## Tim Harrison (10 Dec 2011)

Hi I just took my time and prized it off a little at a time, eventually it gave up the fight and came away easily. Getting rid of the silicon afterwards was easy too, I just scrapped it off with the flat edge of a Stanley knife, without damaging the glass, no scratches etc. The final result is great so for me the minimal risk involved was worth it.

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.


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## Quetzalcoatl (13 Dec 2011)

I am seriously concidering removing this veneer now, thing is.   Will it be safe as the bracing bar is housed within it! Wonder if it`s worth starting a new thread about this subject? Do you know if this topic has been talked about in more depth on here?


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## Quetzalcoatl (13 Dec 2011)

> Stick to the spray bar, then when you have budget for the rimless opti White get the Lilly pipes to match


   
If only life was so simples?


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## Stu Worrall (13 Dec 2011)

its been done before on a Rio125 but it did bow a bit at the front i believe.  How much it will bow on a 180 is anyones guess but I'd be careful when filling if you do do it.  what mm is the glass on a 180?


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## Quetzalcoatl (13 Dec 2011)

After a bit of quick research it would appear the glass is in the Rio180 is 10mm thick. I can`t clarify this though because I`m stuck at work at the minute. I read on another forum that Juwel had confirmed that it is safe to remove the brace bar as it is not a structurally necessity? Apparently, and I quote “A significant amount of bowing in the aquarium is to be expected, and this is normal”   
I am going to open another thread on this subject, as I am interested to see if others have done it, or if it is advisable or not? Bowing doesn`t sound to enticing?

Thanks.


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## Alastair (13 Dec 2011)

Juwel themselves told me the same in an email as inside halides on my vision 450 and hate the shadows the bar creates. They stated that the bars themselves don't support the pressure, so I'd be ok to remove but in all fairness I wast chancing it. Apparently though the frame around the top does support the tabk. If your going to remove it I would suggest making a clear centre brace for piece of mind. I'm just going to leave my outer rim on and use clear acrylic strips as the braces. Not sure I fancy all that water pushing on the glass with out.
I've seen plenty of juwels with our the rims on and a few of the visions with our them on marine forums but they've always braced the centre with a glass strip


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## Quetzalcoatl (13 Dec 2011)

Hi guys. I have opened another thread on this issue, mainly because I wanted to see if I could obtain anymore info? Please don`t think I don`t appreciate your help, and advice in this thread, because I do!

Thank you, please.


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