# 40 years and still going!



## Chrispy (7 Jul 2016)

40 years and still going………. But only just!!

Around 40 years ago I moved into my present house and built an aquarium into an alcove of the lounge.  At the beginning of this year (2016) the lights stopped working and when I removed the lights and controller to find out why, I discovered that the tank had developed a very slight leak that had been dripping onto the metal stand.  It must have been going on for some time as the stand, in one corner, was very rusty.  Having recently inherited some money I decided that after 40 years of running a very low tech aquarium with no CO2, no fertilisation, and only a gravel substrate it was time move into the high tech world.

I recently joined the UKaps and after asking advice regarding dosing pumps from one member he suggested that I should write a journal of my progression.  He went on to say that he had and received invaluable advice from the more experience members of the society which saved him making some fundamental mistakes.

Below is a picture of my old tank which was all hand made followed by a picture of my new tank which I purchased from the local Maidenhead Aquatics.  It’s an Aqua Oak 100cm two door limited edition.  I chose this because it is a slim line version (35cm) and fits into the alcove where the original tank was.




 
and the new one.


 


Next the equipment.

As already mention the tank is a special edition ‘slim line’ tank from Aqua Oak.

Filteration
Aquamanta EFX 300 external filter with spray bar which I have extended to cover the full length of the tank.

Lighting
2 x TMC Aqua Ray Grobeam 1500 Ultima tiles.
Aqua Ray lighting controller

CO2
CO2 Art dual stage regulator & solenoid with precision SMC valve.  UP inline atomiser on return hose.

Substrate
ADA Power Sand.
ADA Bacter 100 and Clear Super
ADA Amazonia.

Fertilisation and delivery
Self mixed EI quantities.
Kamoer 3 channel auto dosing pump.

Air Pump
Eheim 100

The next stage to follow…….Fitting it all together.


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## foxfish (7 Jul 2016)

Sounds like you have all the right kit, don't forget a PH pen!
My advice would be ...  not to stock with fish to soon as you might need a bit of time to get the Co2 on song, once you have live stock then experimenting will not be so easy!


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## Greenfinger2 (7 Jul 2016)

Hi Chrispy, Great start looking forward to following 

Ho Nice Barbel in your avatar


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## Chrispy (7 Jul 2016)

Thank you both for you encouraging comments.
Foxfish I'm in no rush to stock the tank and will run it for a minimum of 6 weeks before any livestock goes in.  My old tank is still running albeit with temporary lighting and in a room with patio windows that faces south and get the full sun all day.  Any advice on your suggestion of a PH pen would be appreciated.
Greenfinger2...I love Barbel fishing.  That picture was taken on the Hampshire Avon at Ringwood and that lovely fish went 10lb 1oz.


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## Chrispy (7 Jul 2016)

Fitting it all together.


My first concern was the source of my co2.  I didn’t particularly want to go down the soda stream or paintball route and resourcing FE’s in Hampshire, at first, seemed a real problem.  However I eventually came across Griffin Fire and Training at Fareham and after speaking to Bryan Griffin a very helpful and friendly gentleman I obtained my co2.  Bryan said that when I needed to change the cylinder I would just need to ring him and he would provide a replacement.

Having resourced my co2 the first problem I encountered with my new cabinet was that I couldn’t fit the cylinder into it.  However all was not lost and after a few measurements I found that by cutting a hole in the base of the cabinet the cylinder and gauges would just fit in……phew!!!

I’ve set up the complete co2 system and tested it to make sure the solenoid works and that there are no leaks.  All is fine. 

I’ve set the auto doser to deliver a set amount at 2359 Monday to Saturday.  Setting pump1 to dose Macro and pump2 to dose Micro.  I haven’t used pump3 and I’m not sure I will. (any suggestions) I’ve been testing the auto doser for a couple of weeks now, just using water, and the amounts delivered are spot on.

The lighting controller has also been set up for testing although I will need to change the times and duration once I plant the aquarium.  I will need some personal opinions what the more experience aquarists consider the optimal setup to be. Particularly for the first few weeks after planning.  But more of that later.

Just as with the co2, lighting, and dosing I’ve connect the pump/filter, fitted all of the hoses, filled the tank and check for leaks.  One thing I did notice was that the supplied spray bar only covered about three-quarters of the tank.  After reading so much about good co2 distribution I felt the spray bar needed extending to cover the whole width of the tank.  Thankfully the friendly staff at Maidenhead Aquatics ‘found’ me just the bit I needed.

I’m a bit ‘anal’ about having things ‘neat and tidy’ but as you will seem from the pictures below everything fits into place although I still have the air pump and heater to plug in.

The first picture shows the shows the controllers:


 

The second the co2 and pump setup:


 
 The complete package.  Notice the hole I had to cut in the cabinet to fit the co2 cylinder in.



 
Next to come…….. the Hardscaping.


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## Chrispy (7 Jul 2016)

Hardscaping

Having seen some wonderful displays on the UKaps and Facebook I don’t think I could achieve anything like them.  I always enjoyed using slate in my old tank and though I would do the same in my new one.  So, after ‘borrowing’ slate from the old tank and locating my box of slate in the garage I set about making my hardscape.

I have two Clown Loach in the old tank and they love lying on their sides in caves I’ve built so I thought that a cave would be the focal point in the new tank.  My idea is to try and use the rule of thirds to place it and make it more prominent by covering the roof with a moss that would hang down over the front and having a swathe of carpeting plants leading up to it.  (this is where I will need advice on the appropriate plants – more of this later)

This set up is definitely not for the purists amongst you but I’m please how it turned out and I’m hoping once planted will be acceptable.

So how did I build a cave and hardscape using natural slate?

First the cave.  I had an idea of how I wanted to build the cave, which included natural roofing slate.  This was cut and using aquarium safe silicon the basic shape formed.  This is shown in the picture below.






The next picture shows how the next part of the cave using natural slate vertically to give a basic shape.  A lot of this will be covered as stratified layers are added.






A work in progress.  I’m playing about with the slate to give what I hope will be a pleasing effect.  The next two pictures show how it’s progressing.



 



 


You will see from the next picture I once again used roofing slate as the base of the stratified layers.  The idea of this is to lay the whole piece on the substrate with a small amount of substrate  covering the first layer.  Just like the roof of the cave the large ‘walls’ can be removed in one piece should there be a need.  For example cleaning.






The last two pictures show the project complete and ready for the silicon to cure before being put into the tank.







 

Coming next...Adding the substrate and my Slate creations.


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## ian_m (7 Jul 2016)

Couple of things...being anal and all that...
- Nice under tank layout.
- A small LED strip at the top of the cupboard that comes on when the door is opened would enable you to better display the under tank "anality" in all its glory. 
- It is "solenoid".
- Put stainless jubilee clips on the diffuser. Do not rely on the lock nuts, unless you want your tank conveniently syphoning out into the cupboard. Voice of experience and wet floor here.
- I use a third dosing channel to dose liquid carbon. Does appear to keep BBA and algae at bay. In your case park the liquid carbon bottle on top of your fertiliser containers. Must be a light blocking container.
- Ensure the micro solution is not exposed to light. Light will quickly degrade the micro. 
- I assume you are having a plant compatible substrate, so how are you going to keep your wonderful slate work at the "correct level" ?. I built rock legs on my rock work so that it rested on the bottom glass of the tank and the substrate was built up to hide the legs. However the tank inhabitants, mainly the loaches, took it upon themselves to continually fill my cave and bridge with substrate.
- Your loaches may not be compatible with a "planted tank". My loaches were fine and well behaved for a year or two, had to replant odd disrupted plants regularly (but not an issue), HC was a complete eventual no-go, I managed to get a good carpet cover but suddenly got uprooted and/or eaten. Glosso was fine and carpeting. However they became more vicious in their uprooting, started stem snapping and started scoffing the plants. My Glosso carpet became just stems, no leaves, looked like a forest of match sticks. Anytime a shoot/leaf appeared it had gone by the next day, they were definitely scoffing at night. The loaches were given away, where apparently according to my mate, they continued their destructive behaviour.

Anyway a picture showing the 3 munchers team from March 2013, you can just see both the Glosso and HC carpet are present as this was before they took to eating it...




However once gone things got a bit out of hand....


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## Chrispy (7 Jul 2016)

Hi ian_m and thank you for your comments.
- I like the idea of an LED strip.  I wonder if 'her indoors' would miss the one I fitted under the kitchen units!
- I kept looking at Solenoide and convinced myself it was correct.  Easy to change.
- Stainless jubilee clips?  Do you remove the lock nuts completely and put the clips in their place?  They must be very small.  Where can I purchase them?
- Is keeping the doors closed enough to keep the ferts from being exposed to light or should I cover the containers.  Odd that purpose built containers are supplied clear.
- I'll need to read up on liquid carbon and it's uses.  I was under the impression is was used if co2 was not.  Thanks for the heads up.  What is BBA?
- I'm using ADA substrate and I though, perhaps wrongly, that the slate work would stay on top.  That said my loaches do drag the gravel around in my old tank although they don't dig up my plants.  I like your idea of building legs that are covered by the substrate and although I have already added the substrate and slate work     into the tank I'm not ready to buy plants yet so I'll make supports as you suggested.  A very helpful tip which has probably saved me hours of work if I'd already planted.  Thank you very much.
- I was thinking of carpeting with Dwarf Hair Grass and adding HC when I'm more experience but I see what you mean about your munches.  Anyone want two Clown Loaches


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## alto (8 Jul 2016)

Amazingly well thought out journal so far  

You might look at Chris Jackson's Island Shore journal where slate is used as hardscape (along with ADA etc)

I second ian_m's suggestion that clown loaches & planted tanks are not the easiest combination - the clown loaches will easily burrow through all layers of the soil substrate  
If you want to keep the loaches, consider switching out the ADA soil for Tropica's combination of small gravels/sand layered over Growth Substrate, numerous video "journals" can be found on their Inspiration page  ... you'll still want to establish the plants before adding back the clown loaches.

(there's a good deal of well thought out planted aquarium basics on the Tropica site, also consider following their 90 day App) 

If you stay with the ADA substrate system, familiarize yourself with their fertilizer regime as well & perhaps set up your EI system along similar "lean" lines, especially during tank startup

The present layout of the stone creates crevices which you'll likely find difficult to clean/remove debris, try to work out these technical details before adding substrate etc, as it's easy to make changes at this stage ... also any slip of the hose won't lead to masses of ADA muck everywhere

Troi's Windswept Eternity had quite the chaos run


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## Chris Jackson (8 Jul 2016)

Great project, keep learning, stay young!

I also suggest you exercise some caution with combining EI fert levels with ADA soils especially at the begining. The ADA approach is based upon a nutrient rich substrate with relatively lean water dosing. You'll probably only need maybe ¼ EI levels in the first few months. 

This Going dutch by the book journal is a fantastic advert for the Tropica system and as Alto says they also back it up with a great app and online guidance.


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## GHNelson (8 Jul 2016)

Hi Chrispy
Great journal!
Nice cabinet from Maidenhead aquatics very sturdy builds...I've been looking at them for a while!
I would advise to add another check valve after the bubble counter...this serves as a back up if the other next to the UP atomiser fails!
Love the dosing boxes!
Where did you purchase them?
Keep the posts coming!
hoggie


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## ian_m (8 Jul 2016)

Chrispy said:


> Do you remove the lock nuts completely and put the clips in their place? They must be very small. Where can I purchase them?


Yes remove the lock nuts completely on the filter tubing. Search Ebay for 22mm stainless jubilee clip. 18-25mm looks OK. You just need to determine the exact size, though it looks like your filter piping is 16/22mm tube.



Chrispy said:


> Is keeping the doors closed enough to keep the ferts from being exposed to light


Should be fine, the instructions (from Solufeed) warn of direct sunlight being an issue. If you get a precipitate in the bottom of the container then think again.



Chrispy said:


> What is BBA?


Black Brush Algae. http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/algae.htm. See the bit about dosing with Flourish Excel, EasyCarbo or TNC Carbon (liquid carbons) will clear it up.

The substrate mistake I made was putting sand on top of Fluval Stratum. After a while the substrate started "floating through" the sand, as well as all my slopes flattening themselves out, despite putting in dividers to try and keep the levels. Ended up taking it all out, sieving it and putting back as sand underneath the Stratum which survives much better.


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## Chrispy (8 Jul 2016)

Alto & Chris,
Thank you for your advice on ADA soils and EI ferts.  I ordered the substrate a couple of months ago when I first decided to go with a new tank and just after I started this journal put it into the tank. (So no going back)  I'm going to have to temporarily remove some of the substrate  as I'm going to take ian_m's advice and build supports for my slate work so that it doesn't sink.  Should manage that over this weekend.   I had read conflicting reports about using EI with ADA substrates.  Some said to use EI from the start, other say use a much smaller amount of EI for the first few weeks, and the Green Machine webpage suggests not to use any ferts for the first 6 weeks and having the lighting on for just 6 hours.  Confusion reigns!!  I'll have to see if I can find out more info....maybe an email to the Green Machine.  However information from members who live in the "real World' and don't have infinite resources are, I suspect, based very much on real experience.  
Alto you mentioned the crevices in the slate collecting debris.  I am going to put a hanging type moss (Christmas Moss) on the roof of the cave so that it hangs over the entrance.  My though was that I could push the same moss in the crevices in the slate and if it establishes keep it well trimmed.  Do you think this would work? 
If all goes well with the supports that I'll put more pictures up of my progress so far.


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## Chrispy (8 Jul 2016)

Hi Hoggie,
Thank you for you comments.  
The cabinets from Maidenhead are very nice and very well built......but come a a price.  I have a couple of negatives; The cabinets are not high enough to put a FE cylinder in...unless you do as I did and cut a hole in the bottom.  The lids, being solid Oak are very heavy and even heavier when adding two LED squares.


hogan53 said:


> I would advise to add another check valve after the bubble counter...this serves as a back up if the other next to the UP atomiser fails!


I do have a couple of spare stainless steel check valves but, as the bubble counter has a built in check valve, do I really need to add another one?
I got the dosing boxes from Charterhouse Aquatics. 
Chris.


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## GHNelson (8 Jul 2016)

Hi Chris
Thanks for the reply.....as there is one inside the bubble counter its not necessary!
hoggie


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## Chrispy (8 Jul 2016)

Ian_m,
Thank you for your replies.
I misunderstood your original post regarding the jubilee clips.  I thought you was referring to the co2 line connections; hence my comment about the clips being very small.
Once I'm up and running with the ferts I'll keep an eye on the containers and if needs be clean them out and cover them.
BAA.... Ok got that thanks.  I must have had that at one time in my present tank and after much research found that the only fish that would eat it were Siamese Algae Eaters (Crossocheilus Siamensis).  They soon cleared the BBA but boy did they grow and now I have a tank with 2 six inch torpedoes.
Chris.


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## Chris Jackson (8 Jul 2016)

Chrispy said:


> Alto & Chris,
> Thank you for your advice on ADA soils and EI ferts.  I ordered the substrate a couple of months ago when I first decided to go with a new tank and just after I started this journal put it into the tank. (So no going back)  I'm going to have to temporarily remove some of the substrate  as I'm going to take ian_m's advice and build supports for my slate work so that it doesn't sink.  Should manage that over this weekend.   I had read conflicting reports about using EI with ADA substrates.  Some said to use EI from the start, other say use a much smaller amount of EI for the first few weeks, and the Green Machine webpage suggests not to use any ferts for the first 6 weeks and having the lighting on for just 6 hours.  Confusion reigns!!  I'll have to see if I can find out more info....maybe an email to the Green Machine.  However information from members who live in the "real World' and don't have infinite resources are, I suspect, based very much on real experience.
> Alto you mentioned the crevices in the slate collecting debris.  I am going to put a hanging type moss (Christmas Moss) on the roof of the cave so that it hangs over the entrance.  My though was that I could push the same moss in the crevices in the slate and if it establishes keep it well trimmed.  Do you think this would work?
> If all goes well with the supports that I'll put more pictures up of my progress so far.



Hi Chrispy
The Green Machine are the UK experts for all things ADA and have setup and run a great many tanks, far more than the average hobbyist on here, so you'd do well to follow their guidance to start with. Just resist any sales pitches suggesting you spend a fortune on ADA ferts!


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## LfcFan1977 (9 Jul 2016)

Hi Chrispy,

Very nice start to your journal. I will be keeping an eye your progress.
I really like the idea of the moss covered cave.

It's good to know I'm not alone in the world when it comes to pictures of cabinet setups. Great job. Very tidy.

Thank you to all that have commented and replied, I either learn something new or get insired by something every time I come on this site.

I hope this is relevant and I am not hijacking this thread but are there any issues with Clown Loach digging in a soil substrate? bacterial infections for the fish? distrurbing the substrate to point where it is aesthetically displeasing? disruptive to the filtration?

If you are keeping the Clowns then you can try plants with a Rhizome (Java ferns, Bucephalandra, Anubias) which you could super glue, tie or wedge onto/into the slate.
I've had no problems with my Clowns breaking or eating those..... so far


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## tmiravent (9 Jul 2016)

one word, respect!

very nice project.
my advice, choose one method (ada, ei, tropica, ...) and follow that one. 
Mixing then can a hard path. 

The air pump is not need in high tech (but you can use at night if you want).
I love to work with that stones, cheers


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## Dantrasy (9 Jul 2016)

Very well planned and executed!

I run into the same issue re the height of the co2 cylinder. I decided to remove the cabinet floor on the left side so the cylinder sits on the ground (with a rubber mat underneath). All the electrics - plugs and power boards - are on the right side raised up on the cabinet floor.


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## Chrispy (9 Jul 2016)

tmiravent said:


> The air pump is not need in high tech (but you can use at night if you want).


Hi Tmiravent.
I've read that it's good to have some sort of surface agitation after the co2 has shut off either by lifting Lillie Pipes (not an option in my case as I'm using a spray bar) or using an air pump and stone. That's the reason I bought the pump.
Chris.


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## Chrispy (9 Jul 2016)

Dantrasy said:


> Very well planned and executed!
> 
> I run into the same issue re the height of the co2 cylinder. I decided to remove the cabinet floor on the left side so the cylinder sits on the ground (with a rubber mat underneath). All the electrics - plugs and power boards - are on the right side raised up on the cabinet floor.



It's a shame that some of the cabinet makers don't take this into account as I'm sure there must be lots of people using FE's.  Although my new tank/cabinet is around the same size as the one I built my cabinet was taller.  Anyway problem solved with a jig saw.


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## Chrispy (10 Jul 2016)

A quick update on progress:
Following ian_m's suggestion regarding stands for my slate work to stop it sinking I set about making some.  Originally I planned to use more of my slate tiles but rummaging around the garage I found an old sheet of Perspex.  I've used this in my present tank for many years without any detrimental effects so I know it's safe to use.  So with the aid of a few basic tools and a tube of aquarium safe silicon.  The following pictures illustrate what I did.

A picture of one of the two stands I made.




 

The next 3 pictures show the slate resting on top of the stands.


 

 



I'm going to leave the stands to cure and then they will be put into the tank and the substrate built up level with the tops.  The slate added and positioned in place with a final layer of substrate covering the base roofing slate and the first layer of natural slate.
More pictures to follow when this is done.


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## Chrispy (13 Jul 2016)

Chris Jackson said:


> The Green Machine are the UK experts for all things ADA and have setup and run a great many tanks, far more than the average hobbyist on here, so you'd do well to follow their guidance to start with.


Chris,
I e-mailed TGM and this is their reply: 
The ammonia spike will last for about three weeks with a regular 80% water change
We start with ferts after about five weeks on half strength and get up to full strength after about nine weeks.

I don't really want to change my dosing pumps  now that I've calibrated them, set up the dose rate
 and monitored the output for the past two weeks.  What I'll do is manually dose for the first nine weeks gradually increasing the dose until the nine week mark.


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## Chrispy (13 Jul 2016)

Decision time!

Ok, first of all I would like to thank everyone for their advice and suggestions so far.  I'm certain your advice has saved me a lot of heartache.  
The new supports are in the tank with the slate work on top and that substrate built up around them.  I have added a couple of picture to show you the result.



 



 



 

Now after spending several hours getting it how I want it I have a dilemma.  I originally intended to cove the whole foreground with either Eleocharis Parvula or Acicularis "mini".   Once it had established and grown my intention was to cut it short in a swath from the front forming a path towards the cave.  Bearing in mind this is a narrow tank I hoped this would achieve a sense of depth.  Ok the dilemma is this........should I form a path by replacing the dark ADA substrate and substituting it for a light or even white gravel?  See the next picture for a very crude idea of what I'm trying to achieve: the gravel would be much lighter than is shown in the picture.  Your comments on either cutting a grass path or using gravel for a path are very welcome.  Then all I need to do, other than the foreground 'Hair Grass' is work out what plants I need to use...Oh no not more decisions.


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## alto (13 Jul 2016)

This looks so much better!

(not sure I should say it quite so tactlessly  )

Unless you like to chase/guide/capture straying bits of substrate at least daily (likely a losing battle with loaches, even cory's are extremely talented at substrate mixing ... amano shrimp can also do a fine job of redistribution), use texture & color of your planting to create the path rather than sand/gravel

Once your carpet is well established, it's also easier to cut out the Path & fill in with a different substrate 

You might also just add some chipped rock to highlight the Path - just place this atop the ADA, eventually most carpet plantings will creep into the path & you can trim them to highlight the stone or allow it to become mostly obscured ...

Also use "street" like planting to draw the eye to create tank depth - rather than side to side grouping
this tank really is deep, but done Dutch Style so you can see the shape of the planting


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## Chrispy (13 Jul 2016)

Alto,
Many thanks for your reply and sound advice.  Although I'm retired with time on my hands I don't fancy spending hours picking the 'stay bits of substrate' from the path.  I like your idea of placing small pieces of slate to highlight a path and as you suggest letting the hair-grass develop through it.  Once grown I can decide either to leave it or cut it so that the path shows through.
There is a guy in my local shop that is knowledgable regarding plants so I'll ask his advice on the plants that suit my idea the best.  I think, until the tank is well established, I'll be happy with simple fast growing stem plants.


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## alto (13 Jul 2016)

With nutrient rich substrates it's always a good idea to add in some "auxiliary" plants
- Tropica's Guide is well worth paging through, they cover all the basics & have some good photos for planting & trimming & types of plants

Tropica also has a number of "plant handling" videos - you should be able to see the various playlists here - that are fantastic 

I'm sure lots of people here will be happy to offer ideas as well - helping plan someone else's new scape is almost as exciting as planning your own


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## Chris Jackson (13 Jul 2016)

I agree with Alto on all points...


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## Chrispy (14 Jul 2016)

Thanks Alto & Chris.

OK I've had my slate box out again and made a path up to the cave entrance.  Looks a bit Hard (I guess that's why it's called Hardscaping) for now but, as suggested, I'll let the Hair Grass grow through the path and then make a decision as to cut it short to soften it or leave it 'wild'.  Maybe if I use Eleocharis Parvula as the main foreground cover and then plant Eleocharis Acicularis 'Mini' amongst the path I won't need to cut the path back as much?

Any other, easy to start with, planting suggestions would be welcome.

Picture of the new path.


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## Chris Jackson (14 Jul 2016)

How's about attaching java moss or similar to the path stones (superglue works really well) that could give you a nice contrast of greens between the hairgrasses and the moss and soften the stones to give a more er "timeless" effect?


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## alto (14 Jul 2016)

Chrispy said:


> Picture of the new path.


well done 
I'd play a bit with making the stone look more haphazard, try tilting so they're not all level but have been there for years, also consider breaking into smaller bits - easier to attach mosses (you can vary the moss types for color & texture) & you can shift them about later to slightly alter the look or path direction ... 

Yes "mini" is better for the Path
I like a mixed "meadow" look so you might interplant
E parvula
E "mini"
then
Then try some others such as
M crenata (I'm really liking this one at the moment)
M 'Monte Carlo'
Gratiola viscidula - which is very interesting leaf shape once it gets going, it's really quite slow so far in my tank
(I'm just looking at Tropica website (as that's what available to me))

I had great luck getting some 1-2-Grow plants going, not "Dry Start" but just planted into Tropica substrate, then partly filled tank to maybe 10cm water column, no water changes or livestock ... plants filled in fantastic & no "melt" after I finished filling tank, adding filter & heater & shrimp etc
None of this was planned of course, just got busy after the initial planting & it was 3-4 weeks before I got back to the tank


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## Chrispy (15 Jul 2016)

Chris/Alto many thanks for your comments and suggestions.
I like the idea of Jarva Fern on the stones and will add it to my list of 'things to try'.  However as this is my first attempt at a high tech tank I feel I need to learn to walk before I begin to run. To that end I intend to make my planting fairly simple using easy plants.  As I learn I will experiment more and introduce different varieties of plant.  One thing I know I want to do is soften my hardscape but keep it visible.  I watched a TGM video recently where a tall tank was used and several very large rocks were hot glued together to form a very high feature.  I thought it looked fantastic...even more so when plants were first added to it.  I was really disappointed when the end result was shown weeks later.  You couldn't see the hardscape at all and the tank looked like it had been planted with an array of very tall plants.  What was the point of spending hours hardscaping when it couldn't be seen?

Alto thanks for the plant list; some I've selected and I'm sure in time I will try the others.  My local shop has recently moved away from using Tropica and I think they are using plants from a company called Dennerle.  I have a catalogue with all their plants in and it looks like they cover most of the Tropica species although I notice they do E Acicularis as opposed to E Parvula; the latter growing slightly shorter.  I'm going to seek the advice from the 'plant man' in the shop but this is my short list.
Forground will be E Parvula/Acicularis with the EA "mini' grown in among the flat stones.  As you've suggested I can always play with the stones and add the various moss types of different colour and texture.
At either end of the foreground and hopefully spreading up into the middle ground Staurogyne Repens.  This is low and bushy which will be ideal for softening my walls at each end of the tank and as it grows up into the mid-ground give a feeling of depth to the tank.
Midground will be Ludwigia Repens 'Rubin'.   I may mix this with Ludwigia Repens to give me a mixture of the same leaf type but in red and green. 
The background will be the very common starter plant Ceratophylum Demersum (Hornwort)  I know this is a very fast growing plant and will need constant trimming but it is an excellent plant for a new tank and is a known silver bullet against algae.  Once the tank is established and in balance I will change this for something less vigourous. 
I'm going to use Vesicularia Montagnei (Christmas Moss) on the roof of the cave.  The branches overhang which I think will look good over the cave entrance.  I will also try this in the crevasses of my slate work but if this does not work I will try Jarva Fern. 

I'm off fishing tomorrow but I hope to have all my plants on order early next week.


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## alto (15 Jul 2016)

Nothing wrong with Dennerle 

Your plant list sounds good
BUT
I'd avoid using Java fern, it's very invasive & fast growing, bits that break off can quickly establish & you'll be forever hunting it down ... all mosses have this ability but some are much slower at establishing/assimilating the tank  

Ceratophylum Demersum can also break off easily but it's also easy to vacumm/syphon out any stray bits
I prefer to use Rotala or other options but that is just my personal "like"


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## Chrispy (15 Jul 2016)

alto said:


> I prefer to use Rotala or other options but that is just my personal "like"


I've looked in the catalogue for Rotala but there are several different types.  Which one do you have?
Thanks for your tip on Jarva Fern....I'll take your advice and steer clear of it.


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## alto (15 Jul 2016)

just re-read & realized you said Java FERN - I was thinking MOSS


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## alto (15 Jul 2016)

Rotala rotundifolia (not sure link works)

Limnophila sessiliflora

Ceratopteris thalictroides 

Myriophyllum matogrossense

Heteranthera zosterifolia

- note that I'd be inclined to use pot or stem plants for these "auxiliary" plantings as there's more plant mass than in the TC cups


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## AnhBui (16 Jul 2016)

This folk uses the same material but he does set rock vertically. The result is outstanding and stunning


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## Chrispy (17 Jul 2016)

alto said:


> Rotala rotundifolia (not sure link works)


Hi Alto,
All of the links worked OK thank you.

Those plants look ideal for what I am aiming for but, as I've said, I'm going to start with just a few 'easy' plants.  Once the tank is balanced and I feel comfortable with what I am doing I'll start to experiment with the hugh array of colours and shapes.


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## Chrispy (17 Jul 2016)

Lovely tank AnhBui.  
I hope as I gain experience my tank will begin to look like this one.  The only thing I will do differently is to keep a free or very low level area at the front of the tank.  I like to see my shoaling fish swimming across the tank.


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## Chrispy (31 Jul 2016)

A quick update on progress.
Plants are all ordered and hopefully will be available this week.
I would ask if you could check over how I have my various timers set up and let me know if you think I should change anything.  Although I have included the automated fert dosing I'm following TGM's advice and will be dosing manually until week 9.
Also if anyone has experience with GroBeam 1500 Ultima tiles I would appreciate any advice on duration and intensity for the first few weeks of setup.  I have 2 tiles on a 8 channel controller.

CO2 on 0900
Lights on 1030 at 0% ramping up for 30 minutes to 70% 
CO2 off 1600
Lights off 1700 at 70% ramping down 30 minutes to 0%
Air pump on 2000
Fert dose 2359 (Macro/Micr. None on day 7)
Air pump off 0800


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## Manisha (31 Jul 2016)

Hi, Have enjoyed your journal so far - your original tank really was made to last - that's marvellous! I like your hardscape & diy platform ☺ With such attention to detail (& experience) I'm sure your tank will look great ☺

I relatively new also & don't run co2 so can't advise on your set up but good luck!


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## Chrispy (7 Aug 2016)

Plants arrived yesterday and safely stored in my existing tank so that I could have a full day planting and setting up today.
I didn't manage to get all of the plants I ordered, in particular Eleocharis Acicularis "Mini" and E Parvila but instead got Eleocharis Aciculars, which I understand grows a bit taller than those previously mentioned.  Anyway I have enough variety, of 'easy' plants to get under way.
Couple of things I've learnt today.  Tweezers are a must for planting.
ADA Amazonian substrate is so light even a gnat fart will send it flying in all directions.  I think either Alto or Chris may have mentioned this to me in previous posts and after a slight accident with the filling hose I've made my mind up that the Clown Loaches will have to be re-house.
The following pictures where taken after all the planting was finished and the heating, pump/filter and co2 switched on.  Now for 50% water changes for the next week.....Oh! joy.

I would still appreciate any comments regarding my previous post on the various times I have set things to come on and go off as well as any advice on the GroBeam 1500 tiles.



 

 


More posts to come as the tank matures.


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## Chrispy (14 Aug 2016)

Not sure why I got a duplicate of every picture...but hey that was 7 days ago. *(I've sorted that now)*
So here I am on day 7 of my new tank and the first week of 50% water changes over.  The tank is looking good apart from an outbreak of tiny snails which obviously came free with the plants.
On day 3 I realised that although I had previously tested my  pump/filter I had taken all the filter medium out to do so and then, after the testing, put it back still in the plastic bags.  So my pump /filter had been running for three days doing nothing but put co2 into the tank.  What a plonker!!!

The plants seem to have established with the Ceratophyllum Demersum (Hornwort) reaching the surface.  I will cut it back after the next water change.  One thing I have learnt with this plant is that it is very delicate, easy to break bits off it and without roots easy to dislodge from the substrate.  I actually manage to suck a whole plant out of the tank whilst doing a water change.  I have a sheet of lead in the garage and as I replant I'll tie the shoots together with cotton and then place a strip of lead around the cotton.  That way I won't keep disturbing the substrate trying to bury the plant deep enough to stop it floating free.
The Eleocharis Acicularis (Hairgrass) has started to produce new growth but as yet I've not seen any runners.
It looks like the top leaves of the Staurogyne Repens 'Rubin' are changing colour and started to go red.

My only concern is that my drop checker turned lime green once I started the system up and despite having the co2 go off and hour before the lights and running an airstone overnight it has remained the same colour.  Obviously the co2 is getting into the water but is it 'normal' for the drop checker to remain lime green?

A picture
to show the weeks growth.  Sorry about all of the reflections.


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## Chrispy (21 Aug 2016)

Day 14 and the plants continue to grow.  I've had to cut the Ceratophyllum Demersum (CD) back twice this week it grows so fast.  As I said in last weeks update it is a very fragile plant and at todays water change I managed to up-root several plants.  Although I've read this is an excellent 'Silver Bullet' in new tanks at keeping algae at bay I think I may look at replacing it on the right hand side of the tank where I put my hoses in for the water change.  It's also difficult to get to the outlet strainer to clean it with disturbing the CD.  Any suggestions for a background stem plant (that roots) would be appreciated.
The Eleocharis Acicularis (EA) is really taking off now and I can see lots of small white runners spreading through the substrate.  I want to keep the EA fairly short but I think I will wait for a few more weeks, to let it really get established, before I trim it.  Both Ludwigia Repens (LR) and LR 'Rubin' are growing well with the Rubens showing nice colour contrast.  Some of the lower leaves are falling off so I am going to up the light intensity from 70% to 75% and see if this helps.
I've been doing a 50% water change every day for the past 14 days so from this week I reduce it to 50% every other day for a couple of weeks. 

I've copied a previous post as I would ask if you could check over how I have my various timers set up and let me know if you think I should change anything.  Although I have included the automated fert dosing I'm following TGM's advice and will be dosing manually until week 9.
Also if anyone has experience with GroBeam 1500 Ultima tiles I would appreciate any advice on duration and intensity for the first few weeks of setup.  I have 2 tiles on a 8 channel controller.

CO2 on 0900
Lights on 1030 at 0% ramping up for 30 minutes to 70%
CO2 off 1600
Lights off 1700 at 70% ramping down 30 minutes to 0%
Air pump on 2000
Fert dose 2359 (Macro/Micr. None on day 7)
Air pump off 0800

Picture of the tank at Day 14


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## Chrispy (21 Aug 2016)

Can anyone tell me why every time I put a picture up it's duplicated?


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## Manisha (22 Aug 2016)

A fast growing alternative to hornwort would be hygrophila difformis (water wisteria) hardier & has a heavy root structure. It grows quite bushy so isn't to everyones taste. Another common easy plant is egeria densa or elodea crisp - both narrow stems but their appearance can deteriorate over time so are often removed once a tank has established well. Another I have used successfully in my low tech tanks is gymnocoronis spilanthoides - similar in appearance to hygrophila polysperma & very fast growing.

I expect you haven't had feedback on your dosing & timings as they are pretty much spot on. Most members run a shorter photoperiod in the first few weeks (5-6 hours) & increase slowly as plants become established. Although I don't personally run co2 on my tank's it seems commonplace to run it for a period before lights on (as you are doing).

If you are using EI method to dose ferts - it's usually macro day 1,3 & 5 and micro day 2 & 5 with a rest day 6 & water change day 7. This is to prevent macro & micro mixing & causing cloudiness but if your dosing both on same day I expect you use an all in one? The advice as per the brand or TGM is likely to be perfect in this case.

If your having problems with duplicate photos it might be useful to post in the the technical help section for advice ☺


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## Lindy (23 Aug 2016)

Hi, this is looking really good. For specific answers to co2 and ferts questions you would be better posting qustions in the relevant forums. Re the green drop checker, have you tested the ph of your tank? I don't use a drop checker as my tank is very low ph and therefore the dc is always green.
There is the option of editing your posts after you have posted so you could just delete one photo if it annoys you. You can also preview your post and delete extras at that point.


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## Chrispy (23 Aug 2016)

Hi Manisha,
Thanks for your suggestions as alternatives to CD.  I have grown Hygrophila Difformis in my present low tech tank but it got really big and began to take over the tank.  I would imagine with co2 it would grown even faster.  However it is an option, which like the other options you have kindly suggested, I will look into.
I have set my EI ferts up exactly as you suggested but after contacting The Green Machine they suggested not starting ferts until week 5 and then only around a quarter of the normal dose gradually increasing until week 9 or 10 when I can apply the recommended amount for my tank size.
I must have read your mind regarding the duplicate photo issue as I put my question in the technical forum yesterday.
Thank you again for your reply.
Chris.


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## Chrispy (23 Aug 2016)

Hi Lindy,
Thank you for your comments on the tank.  I will take your advice and post my question regarding my set-up in the relevant forum.  The main reason I asked here was because several experienced members commented on my journal and I had hoped they might reply.
I haven't tested the ph of my tank as I've read that unless you are prepared to spend big money on a quality tester then readings can be misleading.  I have however just purchased a JBL Permanent co2 Plus ph tester.  With it's white background and ph scale it is much easier to see the colour of the reagent.  I can now see it is a blue/green before the co2 comes on and gets to the correct colour very soon after lights on.
As for the photos - I've tried editing my post but when I edit it only shows one picture, despite there being two, and if I hit delete the photo disappears altogether.  I have put my question up on the technical forum but as yet had no replies.
Thank you for responding to my post.
Chris.


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## Lindy (23 Aug 2016)

I'd love to be more help on the photo front but I haven't got a clue lol


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## Chrispy (28 Aug 2016)

Hi All,
Well it's day 21 of the newly set up tank and the past week has been a bit of a mixture of decision making.  The Ceratophyllum Demersum (Hornwort) is definitely going to have to go.  As I've already said I bought it because of it's reputation as a 'Silver Bullet' against algae but it's constantly floating free to the surface and is so delicate  that it breaks up into lots of little pieces that get trapped in among the other plants.  I've decided to use another nutrient hungry plant in it's place; Hygrophila Difformis (Water Wisteria).  It's another very fast growing plant which absorbs nutrients but has the advantage of putting down a good root formation.  I have grown this in my low tech tank so I know I'm in for some serious and regular pruning.
I noticed that the Staurogyne Repens (SR) on the right hand end of the tank looked a little pale and reading up on it in the plant guide I have it recommends high light levels to encourage it to spread along the substrate.  I did raise my light level to 75% last week, so far without any adverse effect, but to help the SR I've moved one of my lighting tiles slightly closer to the end of the tank to see if that helps.  Another thought was that the water flow at that end of the tank was not high enough.  When I first got my tank the spray bar only covered around half of the tank and I rectified this by adding two additional pieces but I assume this reduced the outlet pressure. This week I took the spray bar out and taped over every third hole and that has really increased the flow along the whole length of the spray bar.  It certainly seems to have made a difference as I've noticed that all the plants, from front to back, are now gently moving in the flow.
I've added a couple of pictures this week to show the progress of the plants.  You will see that the hair-grass is really taking off now, growing quite tall  and putting out runners.  You can also see that the Ludwigia Repens 'Rubin' has taken on a red/orange hue.  I think this looks really nice against the plain green Ludwigia.
One thing I am a little concerned about is that the working pressure of my co2 seems to drop back after it comes on.  Originally I set it up to operate at 36psi, the minimum recommended for the UP atomizer to work.  It seems to drop back to around 32psi through the day.  When the solenoid shuts off the co2 the pressure rises to around 50psi, which I expect.  However when the solenoid opens the valve at the start of the day the pressure drops to around 38psi and then over the day falls back to around 32-34 psi.  I know this is not much of a drop but a) I need the correct pressure for the in line atomizer to work and b) I really don't want to have to adjust the pressure every day - after all what's the point of having an expensive regulator if it has to be adjusted manually.  Anyone had a similar experience? 

I'm having trouble uploading my pictures at the moment...so pictures to follow.


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## Chrispy (28 Aug 2016)

First picture shows how well the Eleocharis acicularis is growing.  Notice the white  runners starting to spread into the substrate.



 

The second picture shows the contrast between the Ludwigia repens 'Rubin' and the plain green LR.  The photo doesn't really do justice to the actual colour the plants look in the tank.


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## Daveslaney (28 Aug 2016)

Looks great. I would just carry on with the approach you are taking.
As you increase your light intensity and duration your LR should colour up even more.
I have found dosing iron once or twice a week along side EI on micro days really makes the reds come along.


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## Chrispy (28 Aug 2016)

Thanks Daveslaney,
I'll keep your advice on dosing iron in mind.  As I've previously said I won't start EI until around week 5 and then only use a quarter of the recommended dose for the size of my tank.  After week nine I will let the dosing pumps  I've already calibrated and set up take over.  (At the moment they are dosing plain water into the tank)
Many thanks for the encouragement.
Regards,
Chris.


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## foxfish (29 Aug 2016)

Hi Chris, looking good!
PH is one thing that can be tested  quite accurately with a cheap electronic instrument.
I guess the shop you mention, suggested not to dose because of the rich substrate you are using but most folk dose from day one   with no ill effects.
If you are getting good growth from the 'more C02 dependent plants' and you don't notice any excessive  algae then you are doing very well


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## Chrispy (29 Aug 2016)

Hi Foxfish and thanks for the nice comment.
I'm in two minds wether to purchase a PH pen.  I've read so many conflicting reports......some say you need to spend big money to buy a pen that is accurate...other say buy a cheepo from eBay!  Do you have one you could recommend?
Because I was having trouble seeing the reagent colour in my glass drop checker I bought a JBL Permanent co2 Plus ph tester. With it's white background and ph scale it is much easier to see the colour of the reagent.
With everything growing so well I'm on the constant lookout for algae but so far I've seen none.  I hope saying that doesn't jinks my setup.  I suspect that as well as getting rid of the ammonia from the ADA stubstrate,  doing a 50% water change every day for the first 14 days and every other day for the following 14 has helped.  Oh and of course planning heavily.
Regarding EI dosing, you are correct about the shop and the rich substrate.  I've read the argument for and again dosing from the start and that's the reason I emailed the shop.  Unless I see a serious decline in health/colour of the plants I'm going to stick the schedule I've drawn up. 
Regards,
Chris.


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## foxfish (29 Aug 2016)

Yes well in this day and age you can read anything about anything LOL
I used to be far more active on this forum but in recent years it seem so many people are out to prove your wrong by searching the net until they find a suitable post to quote you wrong... so I keep a lower profile nowadays!
However I will say that I am a fan of PH pens and even more of PH monitors, I have a little monitor that uses a small probe. I can see a PH reading at a glance, it cost about £40 from eBay. To be honest I don't actually use it at the moment because my tank is well established and stable but, I find that by taking regular PH reading I can adjust the amount of C02 more accurately that in any other way... especially on a new set up.
I would not concern yourself thought as it seems you are well on track doing exactly what you are doing.


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## dw1305 (29 Aug 2016)

Hi all,





Chrispy said:


> As I said in last weeks update it is a very fragile plant and at todays water change I managed to up-root several plants.


<"_Ceratophyllum demersum_"> doesn't need to be rooted, it is easier to manage if you just let it float as an under surface floater. The roots don't actually absorb any nutrients, they are just a physical anchor.





Chrispy said:


> I've had to cut the Ceratophyllum Demersum (CD) back twice this week it grows so fast...........Although I've read this is an excellent 'Silver Bullet' in new tanks at keeping algae at bay


I'd keep it because it is growing really quickly, it just shows you have lots of available nutrients.

There is nothing wrong with <"_Hygrophila difformis">, _but if you buy them the plants will have been grown emersed and need a little bit of time to acclimatize to being submersed. If you could get plants that have been grown submersed they will be ready acclimated.

cheers Darrel


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## Chrispy (30 Aug 2016)

foxfish said:


> I used to be far more active on this forum but in recent years it seem so many people are out to prove your wrong by searching the net until they find a suitable post to quote you wrong... so I keep a lower profile nowadays!


Hi Foxfish,
I think you're right....it would seem that everyone has an opinion on what's right and what's wrong.  Although I've been keeping tropical fish for 40 years I'm a novice when it comes to high tech and so I'm prepared to listen to both sides of the argument........I'm long enough in the tooth to decide which approach to take.  I'm into week 4 (day 25) and all seems to be progressing well other than an outbreak of tiny snails that must have come in with the plants.  I've just knocked up a DIY snail trap which I will pop in the tank tonight.  Talking of DIY I was very impressed with your Reactor.   If I had seen this a couple of months ago before I started my set-up I might well have gone for a reactor rather than an atomiser.  I don't relish the thought of having to take the pipework off the atomiser every time I have to clean it as I'm sure sooner or later I'm going to get a leak.


foxfish said:


> I would not concern yourself thought as it seems you are well on track doing exactly what you are doing.


Thanks for the nice comment.
Regards,
Chris.


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## Chrispy (30 Aug 2016)

Hi Darrel,
Thanks very much for your advice on CD.  I realise now that it doesn't need to be planted.....of course all the pictures I've seen of it show it growing from the substrate or pots!  The plants I've chosen to start my new tank off all require high to intense light and I don't want to block the light out with rafts of CD floating around. I have left some floating but most of the CD that I've tied and added lead to keep it on/in the substrate is doing fine.  As you say it readily absorbs the available nutrients and will certainly stay in the tank until the Hygrophila Difformis has acclimatised and established.
Regards,
Chris.


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## Chrispy (20 Sep 2016)

It's been a couple of weeks since my last update ...so to bring you up to date for day 43 of my first attempt at a 'high tec' tank.
At the end of week 4 I had increase the light intensity to 80% and everything appeared to be going well with good plant growth.  So good in fact that I gave the Eleocharis Acicularis a 'hair cut'.  I also trimmed back around 50% of the Ludwigiga Repens as it had reached the top of the tank and was beginning to shade the other plants.  Whilst trimming I noticed that the slate had taken on a lovely golden colour.  It looked really nice but on closer inspection realised it was Diatoms.  I've read that the Diatoms often show up during the set up phase but then in most cases disappear all by themselves.  I had planned to move my Otocinclus from my old tank in week 6 but after carrying out a nitrate test decided to put them in a week early.  They did an amazing job and the next day the slate was spotless. 
The Hygrophila Difformis (HD) I had ordered arrived at the start of week 5 and so I replaced the majority of Ceratophyllum Demersum.  I'm much happier with the HD and looking forward to it reaching the top of the tank and hiding the heater.  
A couple of days after the Otos' went in they appeared happy in their new home and so I decided moved my Rummy-nosed Tetra's into the tank.  So now all of my fish have been moved across from my old tank which can now be decommissioned.  Apart from the 9 Otos' and 18 Rummy Nosed Tetra's much to my surprise I also have a Pakistani Loach and a Red Shrimp!  Both must have come in with the plants.
I've added a few pictures which I took at the start of week 7.  Already the 'grass' needs another cut.

The first picture shows the whole tank and with the exception of the Staurogyne repens and the odd Ludwigia repens everything has been cut back at least once.




 

The second picture shows how well the Vesicularia Montagnei Christmas Moss has grown although I'm a little disappointed as I had hoped it would hang down over the entrance to the cave.  (The Pakistani Loach has adopted the cave as it's home)  What I've kept of the Ceratophyllum Demersum is growing well behind the cave and needs regular trimming.



 

The last picture shows the newly planted Hygrophila Difformis which once established will cover the heater.  Also the Staurogyne repens (bottom right), which as a slow growing plant I was a bit worried about, is now beginning to creep across the substrate and is a healthy green colour.  I have decided on a slight change of plan with the midground plants.  The Ludwigia repens grows much more quickly than I imagined and in the near future I'm going to replace some of it with Alternanthera Reineckii "Red".  Although this plant can grow fairly tall I've read that keeping it trimmed causes it to become bushy giving me a nice splash of red just above the rock line.  As this is a very narrow tank I'm hoping this will give the impression of more depth. 



 

More updates in a couple of weeks time.
Chris.


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## alto (20 Sep 2016)

Tank is looking fantastic 

If you keep trimming the moss back to the rock (almost) that may encourage it to spread flat rather than just going "up", you might also take the trimmings & tie/glue to some small pieces of rock which you can then place in front of the cave area



Chrispy said:


> Alternanthera Reineckii "Red".


this plant has quite large leaves, you may get a better sense of scale with L palustris

Given that your L Repens appears mostly green, I'm not sure how red your A reineckii will be, it may be "easier" to manage A reineckii "Mini" as you're wanting the red nearer the substrate


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## Chrispy (20 Sep 2016)

Hi Alto,
First of all thank you for the nice comment on the tank.  It's very encouraging.

I will try trimming the moss back and see if that encourages it to spread.  I have pushed some into the cracks in the rocks and it's growing well so I'll put more around the mouth of the cave.

You will remember from my earlier posts my intention, as a beginner, was to plant easy fast growing plants as an insurance against algae and keep them until I felt more confident with the high tec set up.  The C.Demersum didn't perform quite as I expected and I've changed that to H.difformis which I think is 100% better and once established I will be able to shape it to how I want it. 
Although it looks all green I have two varieties of L. repens one being L. repens 'Rubin'  The problem is that it only turns red as it reaches the surface and then the leaves grow really big, catch in the flow from the spray bar, and a few days later have grown so much that they lay across the tank and shade the other plants.  When I cut these down the stems that are left produce lots of side shoots with smaller leaves.  Although they stay green I prefer the smaller bushier plants and I'm going to experiment with those on the right side of the tank by cutting them back and not replanting the tops.  That's were the A.reineckii comes in. I thought if I planted it in front of the cut down L.repens I could get a gradual slope of plants towards the back of the tank.  That is until you suggested A. reinecki 'Mini'.  I like your suggestion, it's sounds exactly what I want, and I'm going to go with it.  Now that I've seen the Staurogyne repens, which is reputed to be a slow grower, start to spread I'm more confident to begin trying other slow growing plants.  I have to go passed my local MHA tomorrow so I'll order a couple of pots.

Thank you for your sound advice.
Chris.


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## Manisha (22 Sep 2016)

Your running a very successfully high tech tank - growth looks really healthy & well


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## Chrispy (22 Sep 2016)

Thanks Manisha.
I'm still very much at the learning stage but taking on board the advice from more experienced members and researching the internet regarding the plants etc,  I feel I'm making steady progress.  One thing I have learnt to to take make small changes and see the effect it has on the tank.  I am still gradually increasing the light intensity and the volume of EI ferts.  Before I started I drew up a plan of what and when I would do certain things and from day one I have followed it fairly rigidly.  I have another 3 weeks to run before the end of the plan and so far other than changing a couple of plants the only except to this was putting my Oto's in a week early to deal with an outbreak of diatoms.  I still have nightmares of waking up one morning to find the tank covered in algae!!
Regards,
Chris.


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