# 90x45x45 medium tech :)



## GlenD (2 Sep 2019)

Okay so my tank has  arrived,  it’s in a temporary location before I re-do some laminate floor on Friday. So I thought I’d start playing with some scape ideas.

 It’s my first try, so be gentle!

 The tank is a new offering from Clearseal called a Clearscape.  I ordered a 90 cm x 45 cm x 45 cm from Aquarium Gardens.

 It’s going to be a dirt tank, medium energy but fairly high tech.

Equipment:
Fluval 307 external filter
TMC 25W UV steriliser
D&D temperature controller
CO2 kit from Aquarium Gardens
AI prime freshwater LED lighting
250W heater
50/50 aquatic compost and Irish moss peat,  capped  with 1-2 mm grain size gravel.
Foreground white quartz sand  

I’ll be using moderate light levels, moderate  doseing of TNC complete and keeping CO2 around 15ppm opposed to the normal 30ppm.  

I live in London and obviously have hard tapwater, so I’m using 50/50 RO/tap.

 Anyway here is attempt one.


----------



## Siege (2 Sep 2019)

Cool glen.

I’d suggest moving the rocks towards the glass more at the corners. Think nature, it doesn’t need to be symmetrical.
 You only want a small area of cosmetic soil. More area for plant mass. 

Bank the soil up super high.

It was good to meet yourself and your wife on Sunday.


----------



## GlenD (3 Sep 2019)

Yes mad day on Sunday. North London > Stevenage (drop kids off) > Aquarium Gardens (pick up tank) > Stevenage (eat dinner) > North London (unload tank). Aquarium Gardens has to be the nicest LFS I've ever been in.


----------



## rebel (3 Sep 2019)

Dude are you using a single AI prime on a 90cm?


----------



## GlenD (3 Sep 2019)

Yup... 2 reasons...

1. I'm too cheap to buy another one yet 
2: I love shimmer..

I'm getting around this by a) doing an island scape, so the plants are only going to be in a 15" x 26" section. b) the light is going to be raised up and power turned up to compensate. Remember I'm going for a moderate light intensity.


----------



## Eplov (3 Sep 2019)

I'd agree with @Siege that the rock formation may be too symmetrical -- it just looks very neat, which I guess doesn't feel natural. 

Great concept and I look forward to seeing how it evolves.


----------



## GlenD (4 Sep 2019)

Scape  attempt 10000


----------



## GlenD (6 Sep 2019)

Hard scape complete


----------



## oscar (7 Sep 2019)

GlenD said:


> Hard scape complete


Very nice,  the depth of aquascape is really nice - “life like”..


----------



## Jayefc1 (7 Sep 2019)

Nice tension in the rocks and wood placement the sand looks to clean though IMO some small gravel stones just banking up to the rock would make it look more natural the sand looks quiet think are you planting in to it at all straighten the sand at the front and give it a slight slope to the rocks 
Cheers
Jay


----------



## Jayefc1 (7 Sep 2019)

Just read my post back it wasnt mentioned to be negative glen sorry if it came across that way 
Cheers
Jay


----------



## GlenD (7 Sep 2019)

Jayefc1 said:


> Just read my post back it wasnt mentioned to be negative glen sorry if it came across that way
> Cheers
> Jay


----------



## GlenD (8 Sep 2019)

Weird question, but I filled the tank with water today.  There is over an inch of dirt  in the bottom, I haven’t pre-washed the sand, rock or  the gravel. The tanks is almost perfectly clear!  I was expecting a swamp?


----------



## Jayefc1 (8 Sep 2019)

I've you filled it slowly then you wont have disturbed any thing just sounds to me like you did a good slow job filling it mate


----------



## GlenD (8 Sep 2019)

Looks like I was a bit early thinking I had  crystal clear water, after 24 hours; not so much.


----------



## GlenD (8 Sep 2019)

I finished all the plumbing today, including the UV and I’ve added a T and a tap to the outflow pipe so water changes can be pumped straight out.


----------



## Jayefc1 (8 Sep 2019)

Can you explain how the T and Tap will work please


----------



## GlenD (8 Sep 2019)

The outflow pipe that comes from the tank to the external filter has T added. One side of the T goes to the external filter, while the other goes to an ehiem inline tap connector.  The tap connector is a double tap union where each tap can be disconnected. One tap stays on the pipe in the off position so no water comes out, when it comes to water change my  water change hose has the other tap connector union half, I connect it to the other half under the tank.  Then it’s a case of turning both taps and the water will be pumped/flow out the outflow into the water change hose and outside.

 This is the union double tap connector thingy 
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Eheim-Doub...hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583589102986047&psc=1


----------



## GlenD (8 Sep 2019)

Jayefc1 said:


> Can you explain how the T and Tap will work please


 See above.


----------



## GlenD (8 Sep 2019)

I also ended up making my own inlet and dual outlet pipes for the tank. Using 20mm PVC pipe.  On the outlets I used a 32mn to 20mm reducer but kind of the other way around.  So essentially the outlet goes from a 20 mm tube opens up into a 32 mm cone, gives a nice diffuse flow.  I didn’t fancy glass, so I went for DIY


----------



## GlenD (9 Sep 2019)

So planting suggestions? Don’t want anything too challenging too complicated,  what do you think?


----------



## GlenD (12 Sep 2019)

Another question is how am I going to attach ferns and anubias etc.. to the rocks? I can't take them out... I can't get around the rocks with cotton, and the tank is filled (although I can drain it)???


----------



## Kalum (12 Sep 2019)

Best option is to find any crevices to lodge them in, 2nd option would be to glue (after draining obviously)

What sort of look are you wanting with regards to planting? Might be easier for people to make suggestions if we know what you do or don't like and what picture you have in your head


----------



## GlenD (12 Sep 2019)

Hello, thanks for the reply. I like the look of this tank. Although I do need it as more of an island.


----------



## Kalum (12 Sep 2019)

Most of what you see in that are epiphytes such as Java Fern based (normal, narrow leaf and trident), anubias and bucephalandra and are not actually 'planted' in the substrate, there are a few to the sides and back of the picture which are planted

Various Cryptocoryne might be worth looking into for a similar look which you can plant in the substrate and are easy to grow/look after, various hygrophilia are also in the easy category and it would definitely be worth adding a few faster growing stems if it fits what you want


----------



## tam (12 Sep 2019)

GlenD said:


> Another question is how am I going to attach ferns and anubias etc.. to the rocks? I can't take them out... I can't get around the rocks with cotton, and the tank is filled (although I can drain it)???



Draining it and using superglue would be the easiest option - some plants you'll be able to wedge where you want and some will plant in the substrate - but if you want plants along the wood it will need gluing or tying. With moss tying may be easier - but javafern/anubias etc. gluing is.


----------



## GlenD (12 Sep 2019)

Yes I think my plant list is

Foreground

Aanubias
Bucephalandra
Cryptocoryne types?
Mid-ground 

Java Fern - trident
Bucephalandra
Cryptocoryne - types?
Background

Hygrophilia Salicifolia
Vallisneria
I've also got 1 x large amazon sword and a small amount of twisted vallisneria sitting in my current community tank that I need to do something with.


----------



## Jayefc1 (12 Sep 2019)

If you do decide to use super glue make sure you buy the gel type as the runny one makes a mess the gel will stay where you put it I know it sounds obvious


----------



## rubadudbdub (12 Sep 2019)

Jayefc1 said:


> superglue... runny one makes a mess



Superglue also leaves white spots on whatever its put on wood, rocks etc that stays visible for ages.  So if you use it dab the spot somewhere you can't see it if possible.  

Not used the gel, so no idea if this is any better in this respect.


----------



## Jayefc1 (12 Sep 2019)

The gel is loads better to hide any white spots sprinkle a lil soil over the glue after


----------



## Siege (13 Sep 2019)

You can use the glue underwater but it goes white straight away.

Your gonna and do a water change anyway so may as well drain. More fun planting also!


----------



## GlenD (13 Sep 2019)

CO2 is in, just the plants left now!


----------



## GlenD (17 Sep 2019)

The plants have been ordered and should be going in this Friday .. 

2 x Bucephalandra 
3 x Anubias (small type)
3 x Microsorum Trident 
2 x Portion of moss
3 x Hygrophilia i.e. Salicifolia
4 x Cryptocoryne
1 x Amazon Sword 
2 x ECHINODORUS QUADRICOSTATUS - Dwarf Amazon Sword
1 x Valis 
Loads of Amazon Frogbit


----------



## GlenD (22 Sep 2019)

Planting almost done, a few things I need to move but had enough after hours!


----------



## GlenD (23 Sep 2019)

Hi guys, also couple of questions regarding lighting.

The AI Prime is 8-10" above the water, what intensity / wattage should I be starting at? Also, what lighting period? Currently I have a 6hr cycle with a 1/2 hour ramp up/down after/before, given 7hr total.


----------



## Siege (23 Sep 2019)

Hi glen, 

AI Prime are good lights but I’m unsure, simply because you have 1 light when they are designed to be overlapped.
The intensity in the centre is going to be massive to get strength at the edge.

Bearing in mind your tank is newly planted I’d be included to go at something like 60% (random figure, try it and see what you think).

At the same time bang the co2 right up to help the plants get adjusted to being submersed


----------



## alto (23 Sep 2019)

Just to confound 

The AI Prime is similar to Kessil A160 in PAR (slightly under but the new HD version should be slightly higher I’d guess) - Filipe Oliveira has used these on many scapes so I’d check his video details, maybe post the question on his FB 

With this cluster matrix design, as you reduce intensity, you also significantly reduce the “spread” of the light fall
(this will occur with other LED designs as well but is less noticeable on an array) so while you’re trying not to blast the area directly under the Prime, you’re going to be increasing the shade effect at the edges 
For this reason, I always run my single A160 Kessil (60 x 45 cm tank footprint) at 100% (after the “ramp”) and just decrease photoperiod when establishing the tank
eg, 30 min ramp 4-5h 100%, 30 min ramp 
Then for extended viewing, I just swivel the light so it’s behind the tank (left or right corner) and only “moonlight” falls on the tank (ie light is dimmed to lowest setting) 

I have minimal algae in my setups so this seems a reasonable method 

If concerned, you can always just “corral” the frogbit directly beneath the Prime 

If you were using 2 x AI Prime, then I’d begin with reduced intensity


----------



## alto (23 Sep 2019)

Fantastic Island 

Depending on the growth rate of that Hygrophila sp, I’d add in H zosterfolia 1-2-Grow for rapid initial growth  (just one in vitro cup is loads)
I’d also add Otocinclus fairly early on - if you’re planning on having any?


----------



## GlenD (27 Sep 2019)

One week update

 Or is it two week update? Anyway six x  nerite snails, six x Amano shrimp and six x red cherries are in.  Got some moss and just did a 75% water change. 

Today, I also made some temporary acrylic covers for the tank. As my snails have been found in the living room three times now! 

Also got this algae on the rockwork at the front, what is this and what should I do?


----------



## Siege (27 Sep 2019)

Hi glen.

I was expecting to see brown diatom algae but looks like blue green algae.

Have you got any surface movement? I’ve found it loves low oxygen environments.

Adding a nice surface ripple along with ensuring flow around the area will help. Blasting the substrate with a turkey baster and syphoning it off at water change should do it.


----------



## GlenD (27 Sep 2019)

Hi, yes surface movement could be more TBH, I’ve got a powerhead pointing towards the middle front panel and the flow does go right past the area.  I think I had diatoms on the sand, although that came up with a bit of  siphoning .


----------



## Siege (27 Sep 2019)

That makes sense. Scrub it off and Syphon away. See if you can get every bit. You’ll find it will smell horrible. When smelt once you’ll be able to smell it a mile away!

Increase in oxygen seems to be the major thing. A nice ripple on the surface.
your cover may not also be helping, as it will prevent gas exchange. 
Don't worry about snails walking. They often do that in a new tank and can easily live a day or 2 out of water. Once your tank settles down they’ll stop walking!

Also make sure you haven’t got the filter and powerhead fighting against each other.


----------



## Siege (27 Sep 2019)

Ps. ADA Phyton Git will kill it, but you are better to fine the cause.

Bearing in mind how new your tank is, it is telling you something is wrong. Will only need a minor tweak or 2. Don’t delay though as it will easily spread in a low oxygen and high waste environment.


----------



## GlenD (27 Sep 2019)

Well, big water change today and I’ve dropped the light intensity down by 20%. 

 External filter outlets are at the back right of the tank, firing towards the surface to the left corner. Powerhead is in the left back corner facing the centre of the aquarium glass. Filter inlet is in the bottom right corner.


----------



## Siege (27 Sep 2019)

Might be worth experimenting with the power head direction. Face it forwards or move it to front left hand side facing a cross the front. Getting a full circular motion is what is needed. At the moment you may have a load of turbulence in the mid centre.

May also be worth changing to some glassware. The plants will appreciate the wide soft flow.
Maybe use an Eheim skim in early tank stage to assist. That and a filter c.1200 l/ph will do it,


----------



## alto (27 Sep 2019)

GlenD said:


> I’ve dropped the light intensity down by 20%.



At the risk of flogging that poor dead horse, I’ll again state the opposite - Cyanobacteria is not associated with high light levels (more the reverse actually)
Unless you’re moving that light across the tank over the photoperiod, the shade effects are going to impact plant growth more than dissuade the Cyanobacteria

And given you’re injecting CO2 and have only moderate light for that tank, why do you want to limit light?

(I’ll shut up now )


As Siege mentions, improved flow, improved oxygenation, removal (shut off the filter while cleaning up Cyanobacteria, try to directly syphon away the slime as it’s released from the rocks ... just like George in his moss trimming video (I think), also shown in Green Aqua latest video - though they had four! hands)
Cyanobacteria can release toxins so a large water change after disturbance is always recommended (& sequester oxygen)


----------



## GlenD (28 Sep 2019)

Right going to go shopping today and buy some toothbrushes   I think what I’ve done is contaminate the new tank from the old one. I had to move my old system, after which I had a huge algae bloom after the substrate had been disturbed. A week later I put a couple of small plants over from the old system into the new system. Just realised that cyanobacteria was one of the things in the old community tank.  Today, I will also switch the filters over so that will give an extra 4-500 LPH and I’ve moved the power head to the front left corner facing down and across the front of the glass.

 So for those first couple of weeks, I’m guessing the dirt would have been releasing plenty of things for the bacteria to live on with little to no competition.


----------



## GlenD (28 Sep 2019)

The bloody stuff had loads of oxygen bubbles on it last night, after the water change.  

Toothbrush and new air-pump and stone on it's way (for overnights).

Some of the small rocks at the front I can remove. Will London tap water kill it, or can/should I soak them in a 10% thin bleach solution?


----------



## GlenD (28 Sep 2019)

Now there is bubbles up here as well.


----------



## alto (28 Sep 2019)

Lovely slime 

Does it not syphon off?
(use a larger bore tube with good gravity etc flow, then pinch to create a narrow “super suction”)

Tap water does not generally kill Cyanobacteria (though that would be nice )

Adding Seachem Excel etc might upset the balance somewhat, slowing this stuff down
(when it’s this happy, I’d do daily removal)


----------



## GlenD (14 Oct 2019)

Update, it’s been a couple of weeks and the tank has been left for the last 10 days as I’ve been away on holiday.  Although somebody has been feeding the fish and putting two mil of fertiliser in a day. 

 I was expecting to come home to a house of horrors however all seems okay. 

 I did siphon a lot of the cyano off before I went and did a hydrogen peroxide spot treatment prior to the last 70% water change before I left.


 Any comments, suggestions or issues spotted please let me know.


----------



## Deano3 (14 Oct 2019)

Looking good and very healthy maybe best treatment was a nice holiday 

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk


----------



## GlenD (15 Oct 2019)

*Equipment Update:*

I've taken the plunge and will soon have a Twinstar 900SA unit. I've made this decision to a) help balance light intensity throughout the tank b) enable me to add the floating plants. At the moment the floaters get blown across the far left of the tank and out of any direct light. Hopefully some updated pics on Friday.


----------



## GlenD (20 Oct 2019)

Added, ultra clear blue green algae stain treatment and 48 hour blackout.  Two marbled hatchetfish somehow jumped out even with the covers on!


----------



## GlenD (1 Nov 2019)

Update,

*Fish*
20 x glowlight tetra’s
8 x cardinal tetra’s
4 x ottos

had to trim the stem plants at the back today, a few of them were nearly 80 cm long! also removed a lot of the leaves from the sword plant on the right side as some of them were getting 50 to 60 cm long.

I have a few babies from the red cherry shrimps and another couple of them are full of eggs.


----------



## GlenD (15 Nov 2019)

Just did my weekly clean, me frogbit is going crazy. See the pictures, one is from seven days ago the other is from today.

also a couple of full tank shots.


----------



## Deano3 (15 Nov 2019)

Wow that frogbit in 7 days, tank lookong great

Dean

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk


----------



## GlenD (21 Nov 2019)

One weeks growth. Also tiny algae magnet to clean condensation off my cover. 

First pic last week, second pic this week.


----------



## GlenD (22 Nov 2019)

Trim and tidy today. Is the plant on the far left the tall one a hydrophilia? If so I guess I trim this like any other stem plant?


----------



## Keetchy (24 Nov 2019)

Very nice tank. And only took from September to get to this stage. Impressive. Your tank is an inspiration to what I wanna achieve with mine. Definitely going island layout. Will be keeping an eye on your progress bud


----------



## GlenD (2 Dec 2019)

Just started to get some BBA and tiny bit of hair algae. I have gradually been increasing light intensity and TNC complete dosing. Slowly going from 3ml/day 70% lighting to currently 8ml/day up to 95% lighting. I'll begin spot doing this Friday on the affected rocks. I've also lowered the lighting intensity to 85% and reduce ferts to 5ml/day.

Any other advice?

*Current maintenance *
Weekly 70% water changes 
Wave detritus off plants weekly
Sand vac the assessable areas of sand weekly
Clean out filter sponge in old tank water every 3-4 weeks


----------



## MJQMJQ (2 Dec 2019)

GlenD said:


> Just started to get some BBA and tiny bit of hair algae. I have gradually been increasing light intensity and TNC complete dosing. Slowly going from 3ml/day 70% lighting to currently 8ml/day up to 95% lighting. I'll begin spot doing this Friday on the affected rocks. I've also lowered the lighting intensity to 85% and reduce ferts to 5ml/day.
> 
> Any other advice?
> 
> ...


Hmm co2 or nutrients too low?Maintenance wise seems ok.Plants are healthy right?


----------



## GlenD (2 Dec 2019)

CO2 has been light lime green and nutrients have been increasing all the time. Growth has been fast. Almost too fast if I'm honest, which is why I'm lowering light intensity a bit.

CO2 has been my constant , I've  been increasing light  intensity  and nutrients to try to find the balance.


----------



## MJQMJQ (3 Dec 2019)

GlenD said:


> CO2 has been light lime green and nutrients have been increasing all the time. Growth has been fast. Almost too fast if I'm honest, which is why I'm lowering light intensity a bit.
> 
> CO2 has been my constant , I've  been increasing light  intensity  and nutrients to try to find the balance.


Co2 always lime green?hmm maybe too much ferts


----------



## GlenD (3 Dec 2019)

Last 2 weeks I've also been adding 10g of Epson Salts into my 100-120L water change barrel. As my London tap water Mg is low and with RO 60% /tap 40%, Mg is only around 2ppm.

Also I have a dirted tank with both Moss Peat and Aquatic Compost, so not sure if this means I can get away with less ferts or not.


----------



## GlenD (3 Dec 2019)

MJQMJQ said:


> Co2 always lime green?



Yes, while lights are on anyway. CO2 comes on 1.5+hr before lights on and goes off about 45-60min before lights out. Bubble rate is around 4 bubbles/sec.


----------



## MJQMJQ (3 Dec 2019)

GlenD said:


> Yes, while lights are on anyway. CO2 comes on 1.5+hr before lights on and goes off about 45-60min before lights out. Bubble rate is around 4 bubbles/sec.


When u turn off co2 it doesnt change to a lighter colour?


----------



## GlenD (3 Dec 2019)

MJQMJQ said:


> When u turn off co2 it doesnt change to a lighter colour?



No to a dark green/blue. I have an air stone that comes on overnight to increase O2 and gas off any excess CO2.


----------



## MJQMJQ (3 Dec 2019)

GlenD said:


> No to a dark green/blue. I have an air stone that comes on overnight to increase O2 and gas off any excess CO2.


Alright so the co2 is working hmm


----------



## MJQMJQ (3 Dec 2019)

GlenD said:


> Last 2 weeks I've also been adding 10g of Epson Salts into my 100-120L water change barrel. As my London tap water Mg is low and with RO 60% /tap 40%, Mg is only around 2ppm.
> 
> Also I have a dirted tank with both Moss Peat and Aquatic Compost, so not sure if this means I can get away with less ferts or not.


Yes at least for approx 1-2 years.Moss peat is a non renewable resource though.


----------



## Thumper (3 Dec 2019)

MJQMJQ said:


> Moss peat is a non renewable resource though.


Thats not right. If you got living spagnum, it'll grow.


----------



## MJQMJQ (3 Dec 2019)

Thumper said:


> Thats not right. If you got living spagnum, it'll grow.


Peat moss is not the same as sphagnum moss, its harvested from bogs.It replenishes extremely slowly and I think we are using it way faster than we should.
https://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/1150845/#b


----------



## Thumper (3 Dec 2019)

MJQMJQ said:


> Peat moss is not the same as sphagnum moss


Okay, that went lost in translation. In german peat moss is Spagnum. The one you meant is called Torf (peat) in german.


----------



## MJQMJQ (4 Dec 2019)

Thumper said:


> Okay, that went lost in translation. In german peat moss is Spagnum. The one you meant is called Torf (peat) in german.


Ohh i see HAHAHA


----------



## GlenD (6 Dec 2019)

Update, blasted some of this stuff with hydrogen peroxide before my water change today! I’ll see how it is in a few days.

I think I need to start monitoring TDS, my previous 4 to 5 weeks water changes which have been around 60 to 70% range and have had a  TDS of approximately 135.

TDS before today’s water change 275. I did a pure RO water change today and the tank is now sitting at a TDS of 165.

have I been using too much fertiliser? Only five mil a day of TNC complete the past week.


----------



## GlenD (7 Dec 2019)

still not quite sure what to do, conflicting advice everywhere for example low or excessive nutrients can cause issues. However with BBA people say do not reduce your ferts! But when I was dozing 3ml ferts and light on around 80% I didn’t have any issues.

TDS

Yesterday after water change 168, by the evening no fertiliser or food provided 173.

Today fertilisers added 177, by this evening after feeding 186 (one hour after feeding).

so I am 20 ppm up within 24 hours with only one small fertilising dose and one small feeding. Is this normal? Or is the wood, rock or dirty bottom still releasing organics/Minerals?

To clean up the water I am also going to change to 100% RO, remineralise with seachem equilibrium. I’ve also got a second 100g purigen on its way with some liquid carbon.

I know people on here don’t like the chemical approach, but I like to attack things from all angles.


----------



## dw1305 (7 Dec 2019)

Hi all, 





GlenD said:


> so I am 20 ppm up within 24 hours with only one small fertilising dose and one small feeding. Is this normal?


No, that is fine. It is a relatively small amount of ions. 

Try dropping a couple of grains of table salt in a beaker of tank water with TDS meter running, you'll be surprised. 

cheers Darrel


----------



## GlenD (7 Dec 2019)

yes 20 ppm in itself  Isn’t much but if this continues, by the end of the week the TDS could have risen by over 140. My community tank rises by just a few PPM in a week.

I’ll try to monitor the planted tank over the next week and see what happens.


----------



## dw1305 (8 Dec 2019)

Hi all,





GlenD said:


> have I been using too much fertiliser?





GlenD said:


> by the end of the week the TDS could have risen by over 140.


Yes, that is it, if the TDS keeps rising, you can either add less fertiliser or change more water. 

If you are happy with plant growth and health then changing more water is probably your starting point. 

cheers Darrel


----------



## LouisGenin (8 Dec 2019)

The rising TDS is also due to evaporation - the salts stay in the water. Some TDS rise is therefore unavoidable


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dw1305 (8 Dec 2019)

Hi all,





LouisGenin said:


> The rising TDS is also due to evaporation - the salts stay in the water. Some TDS rise is therefore unavoidable


If you don’t top up with RO then TDS rise is inevitable.

It is partially why I like to have a datum range for conductivity, rather than a single “optimal” value.

Cheers Darrel


----------



## tam (9 Dec 2019)

GlenD said:


> TDS before today’s water change 275. I did a pure RO water change today and the tank is now sitting at a TDS of 165.



I'm not sure that's really a good idea. TDS is made up of everything - so very over simplified you might have 150 tds from tap water or remineralized RO made up of your GH/KH plus 150 tds from of your ferts to give you 300 tds total. If you do a 50% water change with pure RO your TDS might drop back down to 150 like your source water, but what you have actually done in the tank is halved your GH/KH! So now you have 75 tds made up of GH/KH and 75 made up of ferts. Much better to use normal water change water (tap or re-mineralised) so your GH/KH stays consistent. You'll need to change more water or do it more frequently to drop the TDS but the water will stay a steady GH/KH for your fish. If you kept doing pure RO changes you could end up with an apparently good TDS but it's all made up of excess ferts instead of GH/KH.


----------



## GlenD (9 Dec 2019)

tam said:


> I'm not sure that's really a good idea. TDS is made up of everything - so very over simplified you might have 150 tds from tap water or remineralized RO made up of your GH/KH plus 150 tds from of your ferts to give you 300 tds total. If you do a 50% water change with pure RO your TDS might drop back down to 150 like your source water, but what you have actually done in the tank is halved your GH/KH! So now you have 75 tds made up of GH/KH and 75 made up of ferts. Much better to use normal water change water (tap or re-mineralised) so your GH/KH stays consistent. You'll need to change more water or do it more frequently to drop the TDS but the water will stay a steady GH/KH for your fish. If you kept doing pure RO changes you could end up with an apparently good TDS but it's all made up of excess ferts instead of GH/KH.



Yes, I did think that, but as my GH even with the 60/40 RO/Tap is still going to be above 7 and my mini landscape rocks will add minerals back into the water. I figured worse case I'd go down to GH 3.5. I will not be doing it again and I"m going to bring my weekly water change forward a few days. I now have some seachem equilibrium to remineralise my RO. I'm going to give remineralised RO a go for a few weeks and see how things look.


----------



## GlenD (9 Dec 2019)

TDS is up to 202 today.


----------



## GlenD (13 Dec 2019)

Picture update, Reduced lights and reduce fertilisers and the growth is still there


----------



## GlenD (18 Dec 2019)

Defo need a trim


----------



## GlenD (21 Dec 2019)

Big trim yesterday, and upgraded to Fluval 407.


----------



## GlenD (6 Jan 2020)

Just a pic update.

Also some notes to myself, what I do different next time.


using the rockwork as a  dam to hold the soil and substrate back. Good idea, but now I can’t take the rocks out without causing an avalanche and ruining the whole tank.
Not bleaching and presoaking all the rock and woodwork. bleaching and then soaking the rockwork, substrate and wood, would have removed nearly all of the organics which would have most likely reduced a lot of the issues I had / having.
Having nice white cosmetic sand in the foreground. Looks nice but pain in the blahblahblahblah to maintain.
Not using a retainer between gravel  and dirt, not sure how I’m going to separate the two when it comes to a re-scape.
So to summarise, I wish I prepared things more conscientiously, used a single substrate and placed wood and rock work in a manner that would make easy to remove and clean if needed.


----------



## Keetchy (8 Jan 2020)

Hey man that's what this is all about, give it a go and learn by any mistakes we make along the way.

But tank looks amazing. Good job


----------

