# Which JBL Filter (or alternative)



## Heatybob (13 Feb 2020)

Evening guys/gals.
So first post other than a "hello I'm ....." so pls dont be too brutal !

I got given a Juwel Vision 180 and decided to try make it a centerpiece of the room type quest,I'm a couple of months away from actually setting it up as I want decorate etc,during this time I'm reading (a lot) and assembling kit I will need to hopefully  do a "proper" job.
Plan is on the kit front to pick what I want/need and run it by you lot for your opinions to try ensue that I buy once,also to ask your advice on any sort of technical aspects of why x is a better choice than y,sure you get the drift.
So my first dilemma and obviously as it's in the filters sub-section it's about a Filter,more precisely JBL Filter(s), now you may ask why specifically JBL,well here's why, I don't know how many of you are familiar with the 180 vision and more specifically it's  associated cabinet and the narrowness (that a word?) of the side compartments that are used to hide the hardware,these are the only filters that to date I  can find  that will go in the cabinet without any shall we say "modification's" and with possibly +200Kg load I really don't want go down that route and that's as well as the aesthetic implications, which then ruin the whole point of the project.
So all that and its a pretty simple question really, I'm looking at 2 filters the  e902 (90-200 Lt) and the next one up the e1502 (200-700Ltr), so just for a min forgetting about the£50 price difference would I be putting too big a filter onto the tank if I went with the larger one,the spec says the flow rate is adjustable from a max of 1500Lt/h.

So thoughts or advice please guys,any issues with the larger one,I realise there may be other things that could influence the choice,but it is sort of a blank canvas atm

Many thanks in advance for any comments.


----------



## ian_m (13 Feb 2020)

I have a Vision 180 and the biggest filter I could find that would fit in the cabinet (without removing doors, cutting holes etc) was the JBL e1501.

This is the flow I get.


I also used a 3200l/hr power head as I was getting BBA in certain areas, due to insufficient CO2 distribution and flow. 

I also have a spare later model the e1502 for sale, would be ideal.
https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/virtually-new-jbl-e1502-1400l-hr-filter.59812/


----------



## Heatybob (13 Feb 2020)

Funnily enough Ian I came back here to delete the post so as not to waste anyone's time as although I said I've been reading a lot ,it was obviously not enough or in the right place as I've found a thread where you're the star of the show so to spk, haha, a few years old and only on page 2 but thank you for your time. I assume the spray bar above is not the one supplied,I'm just at that chapter now tbh.
Re the one for sale as I said I'm a bit away from actually purchasing at the moment but will defo bear it in mind in the future.
Again many tnx.

ETA- Sorry again post#49 re the extended spraybars.


----------



## Simon Cole (13 Feb 2020)

I'm just about to order a Jebao 503 as the second filter to go inside my vision 180 cabinet. Let me know if you want a review. 

@ian_m  interesting to read that you had flow issues. Did the algae clear up much?


----------



## Heatybob (13 Feb 2020)

Simon thanks for taking the time to reply mate,out of interest though and for my data grabbing for want of a better phrase , why as a second filter? I assume by that you have one filter in there,is it undersized?, Im just trying to understand the basic atm. (you just wait till I get to lights ) haha.


----------



## ian_m (14 Feb 2020)

Simon Cole said:


> @ian_m interesting to read that you had flow issues. Did the algae clear up much?


Yes. Issue was caused by taller plants blocking/stopping the circular flow. Proved by placing a drop checker (attached to a stone) in the algae area and seeing it stayed blue'ish despite turning green elsewhere in the tank. Cured by a combination of power head and trimming plants. And yes the algae did go away, it was on Glosso, by a combination of trimming and new growth.

Notice the spray bar in my video is extended with an extra section so flow covers more of the width of the tank. Yes it probably reduces the flow rate per unit width, but all the plants in the front of the tank gently wave in the flow.

I also left the internal filter in, as that is handy for keeping an easily accessible fine floss layer as well as a bag of Purigen. Easy to rinse the floss each week during water change unlike the not so easy access to internals of the JBLe1501.

I run my 1501 with only half the amount of ceramics in it, so as to not reduce flow. Not sure flow is any different but it does keep the water clean and does fill up with fish yuk, so obviously filtering.


----------



## Simon Cole (14 Feb 2020)

@ian_m  Thanks Ian. I'm very glad that I asked you and a great answer. I will get some Purigen in and think about spray bars, and what you said. Very helpful. Very useful test. 

@Heatybob  Good question. My first filter is an Aquamanta EFX 300 (1100 LPH, for tanks up to 300 litres) on a lily pipe. However like Ian I found that it is not enough. The tank is quite deep and I cannot see many CO2 bubbles reaching the bottom lily pipe-side of the tank. This is causing algae, but there is also algae in parts of the tank where CO2 circulation is already quite good. I am one of those people who believes that the second most important feature of a filter should be it's ability to process organic molecules, specifically plant growth hormones and energy-rich hydrocarbons that could theoretically benefit algae over plants. I am looking for greater filter capacity to remove these long-chained organics. The Aquamanta is a superb filter but it only has a filter capacity of about 5 or 6 litres. It is too large for the cabinet, but it's not in the way. 

I got a Jebao 404 (1200 LPH, filter capacity 8.1 litres) for one of my other tanks and I was rather impressed. One alleged issue with the 404 was a few incidents of leaking from the flow control valves. When the 5 series was developed, Jebao removed the flow control vales. They never went as far as designing a replacement for the 404, which would be too large to fit inside the cabinet anyway. However, the Jebao 503 will fit - it is the largest new model -  given its design evolution, I would like to try one. Two filters will allow me to direct flow in from both sides of the tank to push the CO2 down. They will also give me greater filter volume, and redundancy. 

I have used biohome and substrat pro in the past, but now I tend to use crushed pumice. This means that I have lower associated costs, which is important because I want to use about 10 litres of pumice (£10) and a bit of purigen (sometimes perlite) to service the tank. The Jebao 503 has actually had some dire reviews on Amazon. I do not trust Amazon reviews since I found out that people are paid to write false reviews, so for £40 (including delivery and pipes) it could be worth my gamble. Other reviews on forums and YouTube appear to be positive but I would certainly view this product to be untested. Fundamentally it does have a vastly inferior flow rate. The replacement valves on the 404 are only about £14 so I'm actually very tempted while writing this to choose this model again (although it would not fit in the cabinet).   

Mods = I removed the internal filter, removed the flaps, added inline CO2, and I added pivoting Fluval quad T5 39W HO lighting (Iquatics are very unsuitable if you need regular access). My fire extinguisher and filter sit outside the cabinet. I can take a photo for you if you want to look at room design. They do look quite stunning - particularly if you get two on either side of a sofa and have a wooden floor. Lighting is so bright that we don't need the room lighting and we get great colors from a choice of industry standard T5's. You will find that Juwel tanks come with bespoke tubes that only fit their tanks. Our cats often choose one tank to sit in front of because it's grim outside and they quite like vibrant lighting. Please have a serious chat with me about lighting. It is crucial that we get something good, and to be honest - they are great open top tanks. 

Your answer = redundancy, algae control, CO2 flow, capacity.


----------



## ian_m (14 Feb 2020)

This is what the e1501 looks like in the left hand cabinet. I moved the shelf up, to hold all the mains plugs from my PLC tank controller (and air pump, not shown in the picture).





In the right hand cupboard I have my dosing pumps, again controlled via PLC.




Dosing pipes terminate through the right hand tank cutout. Liquid carbon dosing was added later, which is why it is held on with cable ties as opposed to clips.




I have my CO2 supply, next to the tank.




If you go the iQuatics quad tube route on a Vision 180, this is the clearance you now get front and back. I don't have any issues accessing the tank during maintenance, just prop the light fixture diagonally across one end of the tank and fiddle away in other half. Move to other half and fiddle way.

With 4 T5 tubes you need "spot on" CO2 distribution and levels or else algae (normally BBA) moves in very quickly. . Mind you on saying that, if BBA does appear on plants, trim it off as soon as possible and as you are high tech plants grows back in a week or two, hopefully algae free. During holidays I run with reduce lighting periods and just two tubes so as to extend the time between maintenance and water changes.


----------



## Tankless (14 Feb 2020)

How did you set up the dosing pumps? That would be useful for someone like me who's away for work for a few days during the week.


----------



## ian_m (14 Feb 2020)

Tankless said:


> How did you set up the dosing pumps? That would be useful for someone like me who's away for work for a few days during the week.


I designed and used the dosing pumps as I would have been away for over 3 weeks in summer 2012, which probably meant no tank "fiddling" for over 5 weeks. 

This was my original design in 2012.
https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/diy-dual-peristaltic-dosing-pump-with-alternate-switching.22332/

Then finally after having getting p***ed off with timers and their various failure modes, I built this. A PLC is actually a lot easier than it sounds, and various members who have had little electrical and programming experience have produced some most wonder PLC controlled tanks (actually all better than mine ).
https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/how-to-use-a-plc-to-control-your-fish-tank.42993/

Here is Zeus's much better than mine tank. .
https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads...ntrol-your-fish-tank.42993/page-3#post-489803

At the basic level you can just treat the PLC as a 4 way timer, if that is all that is required, simply setup via the front panel buttons.


----------



## Kevin2016 (19 Mar 2020)

I’m sorry to hijack this topic. Ian, i have the same filter like yours. In you’re video it seems the output flow is much stronger than mine. 

Which media do you use ? Ceremics and...?
Do you have an inline diffuser ?


----------



## ian_m (20 Mar 2020)

Kevin2016 said:


> Which media do you use ? Ceremics and...?
> Do you have an inline diffuser ?


I use only 1/2 the ceramics in the 3 trays in mine, as flow is more important than actual filtration. Mine is an older e1501 with 3 ceramic trays. I have an "UP" diffuser on the filter output as well. Can you remove 1/2 the filter foams if yours is the new e1501 ?

This is the tray arrangement in old e1501.




As opposed to newer




Interestingly the e1502 I had for a short while gave similar output as mu e1501.


----------



## Kevin2016 (21 Mar 2020)

Hi!

I’ve got 3 trays.
One with the upgraded basket with foams.
Then a tray with maybe 1/3 eheim substrat and a bag of purigen 
The 3rd tray is also with 1/3 eheim substrat and a little bag with active carbon.

With just the foam and substrat it still not the same like yours. Hoses and pump head are clean.

video:


----------

