# Algae



## fleabilly (6 Nov 2012)

I have a planted tank
Soil substrate capped with gravel.

3 months old and still getting this on my plants


















My eyes lately are so crap that I can really only see what is going on int he tank, if I take a picture. But never the less, I need help figuring out what I need to do.

26 gallon (London tap water)
Temp 22
60% light 2x 500 aqua ray grobeams 50cm above ground level
10 hours of light (timer)
Soil substrate
CO2 off inline diffuser 8 hours 
Lots of flow...
2217 in a 100l tank
60cm spraybar across the back
Eheim pre filter in left hand corner.
(Plans to split intake into each corner)

Micro 20mm 3 times a week
Fe 8.2% Mn 1.82% Zn 1.16% B 1.05% Cu 0.23% Mo 0.15%
Macro 20mm 3 times a week
Potassium Nitrate
Potassium Phosphate
Magnesium sulphate

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

R


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## REDSTEVEO (6 Nov 2012)

Hi Mate welcome to the forum, I see you joined in September this year  

These are some great photographs of bad algae. As the tank is only three months old it is not unusual to be experiencing problems even after three months, especially if something is not quite right. The trouble is working out what. I have not had much experience with the Aquaray 500 Grobeams (even though I am considering getting them myself) but I would guess even at this early stage it is the intensity of the lighting or the duration you have got them on for, just a guess. That algae you have got on the hair grass is a right pain. Have a look at Flourish Excel and the spraying methods on this forum. Just type it in the search box at the top right. Learn from other peoples experiences good and bad, that is what the forum is for.

What I would recommend very highly if you have not already done it, and at the risk of repeating myself and others, spend a few hours just flicking and reading through the Algae section by clicking on the forums below until you find it.

You will probably find that every type of algae that exists, and every question that can be asked has been answered in that section. This is not intended to "fob" you off, its just because some very experienced people on this forum have devoted a lot of time to helping others in a similar situation to yourself by posting their solutions and suggestions in the algae section.

Obviously if you can't find the correct solution there, someone will always help in the end.  

Best of luck and keep us posted on how you get on.


----------



## fleabilly (6 Nov 2012)

Thanks for the info.
Yes I have been looking at everything online.
Usually a bit cautious on ukaps, not to ignite the righteous ones 
With my sophomoric stabs at problem solving.
I figured photos are the best at feedback.
(And cheers on those. Photographer by trade)

I don't have excel, but I do have easycarbo
Need to looking to the spray methods (cheers)

Also I am doing 50% water changes weekly.

Will be going to the event this weekend.
Will bring pictures and hope that maybe someone will clue me in there.

Cheers

R


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## clonitza (6 Nov 2012)

How many hours before light do you start the CO2 addition?


----------



## jack-rythm (6 Nov 2012)

Could you explain more about your light unit? Wattage, height from tank etc. 

Jack

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## fleabilly (6 Nov 2012)

CO2 is on an hour before and after

Lights are the LED aqua ray grobeams.
Wattage does not pertain.
But they are roughly 50cm from the floor of the tank.
Plants probably reach a height of 20cm from the lights...
So 50 to 20 is the range.
Lights are also on a programable controller, that allows me to dim to percentages.

I would like to know what my PAR is,
But can't find anyone who wants to lend me a PAR meter.
And I can't justify buying something that I will only use once.
I have a sekonic light meter and have been searching the Internet trying to find how I might use that to give me a rough idea of my light. But no luck.

R

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## jack-rythm (7 Nov 2012)

im going to take a punch and suggest your lighting is too intense.. if your lights are 50cm from the floor of the tank even if the height of the tank was 40cm it would probably be far to close to the tank but I cannot say for sure as I do not know the height of your tank.. what I can say that im sure about is the photo period. I believe that 10 hours a day for a tank only 3 months old maybe to much. to start with, if you begin with 6 hours then slowly up it, 7 then 8 depending on the health of your tank this should definitely help the situation. no one can really help with this specifically as it will vary on your tanks outcomes. but 10 hours seems a lot. for my mature tanks that are reasonably old I stick to 8 hours and never go over. light is probably the least important on the list. the most important is finding a balance between flow and co2. you crack this you can virtually have the least amount of light possible. I would recommend lowering the light period a couple hours. drop it down to 7-8 hours for a few weeks and see if that helps. keep up with you water changes whilst doing this maintenance and let us know how ou get on


----------



## Nick_593 (7 Nov 2012)

In my experience 10 hours of light is far too long a photo period for a new tank, and would definitely encourage algae. I've read in the past that one of the best ways to keeping algae at bay is to mimic 'winter' conditions in the tank with a shorter photo period. I only have my lights on for 6 hours a day, with a siesta period in late afternoon (12-3pm and 6-9pm), however the siesta period isn't essential.
I've had algae problems in the past and this method is currently working brilliantly for me (fingers crossed).
However the correct balance between macro nutrients and trace elements with CO2 well distributed around the tank is also important, but I think you have this covered?

My best bet would be the photo period and I'd suggest taking it down to 6hours maximum for the moment.

I found these sites useful in the past (mostly for identifying algae..), but the forum will surely have everything you need to know.
http://www.guitarfish.org/algae#diatoms
http://www.aquariumalgae.blogspot.co.uk

Hope this helps.


----------



## fleabilly (8 Nov 2012)

Yes I think you are right. It is 10 hours, 
But they ramp up and down on a controller over the course of 240 minutes. (On each end)... So theoretically it is far less than 10 hours. 
I did just recently drop the percentage to 60% and I have been easycarbo local injections on brown plants and letting it sit with filter off for morning tea. I have noticed a bit if a change. And my paradise fish enjoys the still waters. 
Also found it to be a good time to feed. 

Also I have been working on a shoot for the last 3 days and not mothering the tank as I am prone to do. 

Patience is the key to all the I am finding. 

Cheers


R


----------



## oddn0ise (8 Nov 2012)

I have been a fan of Phyton Git for a few years and swear by this product now, it's expensive but it does keep Algae controlled. There was an article, I think in Practical Fishkeeping recently where Amano himself recommended painting a solution of this onto Algae covered wood, I tried it and it worked amazingly, not sure if you can paint on plants with it, though. But I'd try and find the article and check out the ADA Phyton Git product. I'm not a guru so would be interested to hear what others think but it's definitely worth investigating.


----------



## fleabilly (9 Nov 2012)

Yes 
But at the moment easy carbo seems to be working. At least on the HC.
Cheers

R


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## fleabilly (9 Nov 2012)

fleabilly said:
			
		

> 26 gallon (London tap water)
> Temp 22
> 60% light 2x 500 aqua ray grobeams 50cm above ground level
> 10 hours of light (timer)
> ...



I want to add to this, with water tests I performed.
Finally got my ph,kh,gh test kits
Here are my results:

Ph: 6.6
Gh: 15
Kh: 14.5

I want to test these on water from the tap.
As I would assume that the CO2 injection will have some affect on the kh.


R



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------

