# Cutting hole in sink. Rotary tool?



## a1Matt (29 Dec 2011)

I am in the process of fitting a new bathroom, and the taps do not fit onto the sink, the hole in the sink is big enough for the taps themselves, but not for the waste plunger.

So, what is the best way to cut a hole in a ceramic sink?

The hole needs to be about the diameter of a pencil and be about 2cm or so deep. Hope that makes sense.

It does not need to be a neat edge (it does not even need to be circular), as there is a collar on the tap fixing that will cover the hole.


I was thinking of getting a Rotary tool, but do not know if there is a suitable attachment.

Or is there a better approach?

I am happy filing it down, if there is a file that is up to the job.

I really don't know, I'm a total noob to this kind of thing   
Any wisdom appreciated   
There is free moss in it for whoever can help me. lol.


These are the rotary tools I was looking at
This:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000OODN8S/r ... B000OODN8S

or this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003L21F5S/r ... B003L21F5S

I wonder if these attachments will do the job?:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-7198 ... _sim_diy_1
(I do not mind if they only last long enough to do the job)


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## hinch (29 Dec 2011)

just a diamond tipped hole cutter should be enough or a circular tile cutter should do it too its only a ceramic so pretty much anything that'll cut a hole will do should be able to get heads for it that'll fit a normal drill just do it slowly until the hole has startedyou could grind it bigger using a diamond grinding stone too but that'll be very messy


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## a1Matt (29 Dec 2011)

So anything that works on ceramic tiles would work on the sink too?

When you say diamond tipped hole cutter, do you mean something like this?... http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Power+T ... 178/p88523

In your opinion is there a risk that I will crack the sink?
(If it is risky, as an alternative I could remove the waste plunger, and fit a click clack waste instead.)


Just out of curiosity, by virtue of being a diamond cutter, would the attachment I linked in the first post also be man enough to cut through the sink?

Sorry for the onslaught of questions, but as I have no base knowledge in this area, I want to make sure I understand it all properly.

The moss offer is genuine by the way, have enough growth to trim round pellia and taiwan at the moment.


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## hinch (29 Dec 2011)

anything that will cut tiles will cut a sink too.
the important thing to remember (and it mentions it in your first link) is that they need water to cool them as they get very hot, sinks are made of the same stuff as tiles normally (or cast cement but will cut the same) just alot thicker so cutting takes alot longer.

now if you only want to enlarge a hole by 1 or 2 mm then chances are there won't be enough meat on the internal of the existing hole to hold the cutter steady since typically they have a pilot bit in the centre to line them up so in a case like that then you'd probably be better off using a hard griding stone either in a normal drill or a dremmel if you have it.

the problem you'll have is going too fast at first will make a mess, and once started going fast will burn out the bit so keep it flooded with water - a garden hose is fine.

There's always a risk of cracking the sink and especially the white enamel on the surface I used something like you have shown above when I had to cut a hole in an old fashioned pot sink

This is quite a good link for the basics ie: slow drilling and stuff basically repeats what I've said but probably in a more sensible way since I'm horrible at explaining myself http://www.howtodothings.com/home-and-g ... -sink.html


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## rebus (29 Dec 2011)

This is quite a useful link.
http://www.tilersforums.co.uk/tile-dril ... urved.html

Stu.


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## a1Matt (29 Dec 2011)

Thanks guys.
That video makes it all look deceptively easy  

This is all making good sense, I think I am getting a basic understanding now 
Hinch, I appreciate you helping me to explore my options.



			
				hinch said:
			
		

> now if you only want to enlarge a hole by 1 or 2 mm then chances are there won't be enough meat on the internal of the existing hole to hold the cutter steady since typically they have a pilot bit in the centre to line them up so in a case like that then you'd probably be better off using a hard griding stone either in a normal drill or a dremmel if you have it.



The 'not having something for the cutter to get a grip on' is something that I think will be an issue for me, as the new hole hole will be cut either around, or on the edge of, the existing hole.

So I am still thinking about the the grinding option as well.

I am happy to buy the rotary tool (it is not overly expensive, and I will put it to use elsewhere too at some point).
If I do go that route, will the attachments I linked in the first post work?  (I assume so, purely because they say diamond in the description). 




			
				hinch said:
			
		

> There's always a risk of cracking the sink and especially the white enamel on the surface I used something like you have shown above when I had to cut a hole in an old fashioned pot sink



Would manually filing it lower the cracking risk?
I appreciate it would take a lot longer, but I can get away with just enlarging the bare minimum around the plunger so hopefully it would not be too onerous.


Thanks again.


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## a1Matt (29 Dec 2011)

rebus said:
			
		

> This is quite a useful link.
> http://www.tilersforums.co.uk/tile-dril ... urved.html
> 
> Stu.



That guy also did another vid showing that you can enlarge an existing hole using a guide plate.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rySI9G_8 ... r_embedded

Assuming I can get the right size attachment (too large and the collar on the taps won't cover it), that looks like quite a clean method.


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## hinch (29 Dec 2011)

wouldn't recommend manually filing as its counter intuitive I guess.

drilling = slow
grinding = fast

manually filing would be too slow.

The guy is using a cutter similar to the one you linked in your 2nd post just a note though if you get a cutter with detachable blades from the base you can probably also get glass cutting bits very useful should you ever wish to cut a tank / sump etc 

His using of a guide plate is to overcome what I mentioned earlier of the not enough meat around the existing hole to line up properly.
The attachments in your first post don't look right to me you'll be after something more like this (http://www.sourcingmap.com/85mm-dia-dia ... rrency=GBP)
note thats not the exact part you need but something similar I believe one of the earlier links posted links to the correct item though I can't tell you what atm as i'm on me phone


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## rebus (29 Dec 2011)

The video is basically just an advert for their drill bits.( although very helpful and as you say they do make it look very easy)  I found this while i was researching doing something similar myself but in the end i decided to go with a click clack waste as you mentioned earlier, as the cost of the bit and risk of damaging the sink put me off somewhat.
They do sell individual bits ranging in size and price there about half way down the page.

http://www.365drills.com/index.htm


Edit
the link just takes you to the home page, if you enter the UK site scroll down to the very bottom of the page the bits are listed by size.

Stu.


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## hinch (29 Dec 2011)

tbh his kits at £50 aren't too bad they come with a couple of cutters + a guide plate (though these are easily made out of a bit of scrap wood)

that exact same style of hole cutter could be used on glass too since its a smooth grind surface hole cutter not a toothed version as some of the other ones are


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## a1Matt (30 Dec 2011)

I've made a decision.

I am going to go with the rotary tool and will grind down just the area around where the plunger goes (rather than make the entire hole larger).

Couple of reasons I decided on this - the main one is that if I crack the ceramic it will be behind the taps, so will not show too much.  The other, more minor reason, is that if I am buying a tool, the Dremel will be most likely to come in handy again in the future.  (Very near future, as I will need to shape some tiles in a few weeks time).

So my final question is...

Is this the right attachment?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-7198 ... _sim_diy_1

If not, could someone point me at the right ones.

Am going to get this drill:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-79340-23 ... 277&sr=1-1

Chose it over the equivalent GMC or Silverline models as it had a carry case and 2 year warranty.


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## hinch (30 Dec 2011)

no they're not much use the tool its self looks like it comes with the right bits the pink bits are grinding stones they should do what you need (though it'll be slow going)

something like this http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000 ... 15QKA5RPC1 slightly larger may do you


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## a1Matt (30 Dec 2011)

Glad I checked!

Am going to order it now.

Will post back with an update when the job is done 

Your help has been invaluable


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## hinch (30 Dec 2011)

remember to work your way down so start on the shiney white surface with the grinding surface at an angle to the corner so if this is your corner _| you'll want the surface at this kind of angle /   (swap it around obviously as corner will be at the top.
Enlarge at the top and work your way down into the hole that way you shouldn't damage the enamel surface if you go from the bottom you risk cracking and flicking up the white surface (the same applies to when you're doing tiles later on) work from the shiney surface to the back 
just take your time and be slow perhaps practice on a spare tile if you have one before hand once you can get that started and cut through it or grind a hole in the edge without breaking the surface up then you're ready to work on the sink


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## a1Matt (30 Dec 2011)

That makes sense, thanks.

I kept the old toilet to practice on before I start on the sink.
I also have plenty of spare tiles for when I get to the tiling.


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