# High CO2, low light



## Twisted Melon (10 Mar 2018)

Hi. 

I know that high light levels, with too little CO2  and poor distribution leads to algae and melting. 

On the other side of the coin, when you’re first setting your tank up, if you have your CO2 dialled in to a 1 point drop at lights on and good flow, but your lights are too dim or have too short a photoperiodic. Will that lead to similar problems with algae and melting? Or will the plants just grow very slowly?

Cheers


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## Nigel95 (10 Mar 2018)

I run a low light forest (around 30-40 par) with pretty "high" co2 as far as drop checker is accurate.. it has lime green / yellow color.

Algae will not dissapear by high co2 but high co2 will make sure it isn't the limiting factor. Just observe your livestock so they don't stress out.

Low light tanks with co2 can be really nice. Plants grow well but slow.. less maintenance 



detail shot forest scape by nigel aquascaping by Nigel H, on Flickr


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## Twisted Melon (10 Mar 2018)

Nice that mate. What’s the plant at the bottom in the center? Covering the substrate?

Ta


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## Twisted Melon (10 Mar 2018)

The reason I asked this question is because my intention is to start with my light dimmed, but with the CO2 at 1 point drop, then slowly increase the light until I get good growth. 

Ta.


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## Tim Harrison (10 Mar 2018)

That shouldn't, in itself, cause algae. Providing the light intensity isn't too low, it usually just means that plant growth will be slower.
However, if the light intensity is below a plants light compensation point it will start to die and release organics, and then you'll probably get algae.
Its a balancing act between finding the right light intensity and duration to grow healthy plants, without encouraging algae; healthy plants will also inhibit algae.


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## Nigel95 (10 Mar 2018)

Twisted Melon said:


> Nice that mate. What’s the plant at the bottom in the center? Covering the substrate?
> 
> Ta



The plant with small leaves is bucephalandra mini coin.

The moss carpet is fissidens fontanus.


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## Twisted Melon (10 Mar 2018)

Nigel95 said:


> The plant with small leaves is bucephalandra mini coin.
> 
> The moss carpet is fissidens fontanus.



Loving that moss. What do you have it attached to?


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## Nigel95 (10 Mar 2018)

Twisted Melon said:


> Loving that moss. What do you have it attached to?


Lava rocks and I used the yoghurt method  with dry start to apply it on the rocks. Works very good and you need less moss than using glue or thread. It does not work very good on spiderwood because the wood is very fresh. But it works a little on some places.

Needs some good patience before it grows in.





Here another scape I used this method. This is how it looks at the start of the dry start.


SAM_0651 by Nigel H, on Flickr


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## Twisted Melon (10 Mar 2018)

Hmmmm. I have some lava rock knocking about somewhere.....

Cheers


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## Edvet (10 Mar 2018)

Just make sure the CO2 is constant,with a good distribution. When the plants are used to it, adapting to lower or fluctuating levels will be slow, with the risk of harming them.


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## Twisted Melon (10 Mar 2018)

Edvet said:


> Just make sure the CO2 is constant,with a good distribution. When the plants are used to it, adapting to lower or fluctuating levels will be slow, with the risk of harming them.



Not sure what you mean there Edvet. Could you elaborate please?


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## Edvet (10 Mar 2018)

Even in low light the plants get used to the CO2 levels, they manufacture their system ( amount of Rubisco) to that level, adjusting to other levels, higher OR lower, wil take time and costly buildingblocks. Just make sure the levels you add are constant and it will be fine.  Gowing lower  a bit won't hurt directly, but increasing should be done carfull after that.
For over 2 years i used a low amount of CO2 24/7 in my large tank, it went fine.


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