# Nightmare morning water all over the floor



## Barbara Turner (5 Apr 2018)

Hi all 
Just a tip the plastic trim at the top of the tank is structural. 
I carefully removed it last night, came down this morning and one of the side silicone seams has split emptying 180 litres of water across the floor.  The fish were luckily alive in the bottom inch of water. 

I've half taped the side up with a roll of aluminum foil tape and it now only drips slowly.  I half filled the tank. 
I'm guessing my external hydor heater is toast, fingers crossed for my external filter it was still spinning when I turned everything off this morning.. 
Now running with a spare heater and no filtration.



 
I'm struggling to find anyone that has a aquascaping tank with a clean top edge in stock. I spoke to evolution and they won't have the aquascaper 900 back in stock till may.. I'm not sure I can afford the 1200 or a  ADA tank from green machine.  

I thought about trying to fix it, but there is no chance of putting the plastic trim back on as it in small parts.. 
Also I don't have a spare tank to put fish / shrimps in.. 

Does anyone know anyone closer?
I'm based in sheffield (S20 3FR) and looking for a supplier with a couple of hours.. 

Thanks


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## Angus (5 Apr 2018)

Heartbreaking Barbara! Don't be disheartened, i know how much having a spill can hurt your resolve, unfortunately i can't help with where to buy as i'm in london and have never even been to sheffield, but i hope someone from a bit further north will chip in with some recommendations, all the best and hope you get a quick resolution.


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## Edvet (5 Apr 2018)

Try to get a plastic babybath, rain barrel or garden barrel to keep you over


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## Angus (5 Apr 2018)

Edvet said:


> Try to get a plastic babybath, rain barrel or garden barrel to keep you over


 that's what i did when my 130L emptied, i had to keep literally everything fish and plants in a huge bucket for 5 days, nothing died though so it obviously worked.


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## zozo (5 Apr 2018)

That's a darn shame Barbara.. 


Barbara Turner said:


> Just a tip the plastic trim at the top of the tank is structural.



What is the size of that tank and the glass thickness? Measure it and check it here.
http://theaquatools.com/building-your-aquarium/
By default it has a safety factor of 2,5, but estamiting the size of your tank i think you still at safety factor 4.. Try both and check glass thickness.

I'm not sure the plastic rim was structural, because the top has to hold the least pressure, most of the pressure is at the bottom.. It likely was more like a unfortunate coinsidence that actualy shouldn't happen if it was essambled properly by the builder. Anyway if all checks out regarding size and thickness.
Then see this..


Could be you're up and running again within a few days.


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## sciencefiction (5 Apr 2018)

Its best to buy the biggest food grade plastic container you can find and transfer everything, substrate, fish, filters, heater...


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## tam (5 Apr 2018)

You can contain them in just about anything that will hold water, see if you can find a water butt, large storage tub or a second hand tank (fill it up outside and test if you don't see it holding water). If you pop a plastic bag over your taller plants/moss that will tide you over a few days and stop them drying out.

I'd do that and wait for the tank you want, rather than rushing and getting what you don't.


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## Barbara Turner (5 Apr 2018)

It's pretty disheartening.. When I came down in the morning, my first thought was that the water  looks really clear.....

I'm 50 / 50 between moving the fish and cherry shrimps to a big container from Ikea and between leaving them put.  Guess it depends if I can find a replacement this weekend. 
I could possibly drive to London if anyone recommends anyone that would have stock.  

Nice website Wish i'd looked at it before taking the trim off. 

I've just measured the thickness at  5.5mm  - Tanks measures 40 x 45 x 100cm 
That Website gives me a safety factor of less than 2  
looks like the plastic trim is structural...Just wish it had started to  failed while I was taking it off. 

A guy in Buxton at Aquatic and Pet Superstore has offered to make me a replacement braceless tank - from 12mm front and back, 10mm Sides.  (£250)
Anything I need to ask? Anyone had any tanks made by him?

guessing I need to ask about Ground external  edges, Type of glass eg low Iron? 
little different to the 5.5mm the juwel is made from.. 

Does anyone else make bracless / Trim less tanks  that are good for aquascaping? I came across the new aquaone tanks but they all the braceless tanks look small.


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## Barbara Turner (5 Apr 2018)

Thanks 


tam said:


> You can contain them in just about anything that will hold water, see if you can find a water butt, large storage tub or a second hand tank (fill it up outside and test if you don't see it holding water). If you pop a plastic bag over your taller plants/moss that will tide you over a few days and stop them drying out.
> 
> I'd do that and wait for the tank you want, rather than rushing and getting what you don't.




for the tip  on the bag, I'll do it now. I was watering the moss as often as possible.


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## Kalum (5 Apr 2018)

Sorry to hear that is a nightmare  saving grace is at least it didn't totally let go and you didn't lose all the fish and shrimp as well.

Had a look about and cant vouch for the quality but these guys are in London
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/272599650849

Not quite the right size but close
https://www.thegreenmachineonline.com/shop/ada-cube-garden-90-p-90x45x45cm-10mm-8-hooks-incl/

Hope you find something but as mentioned above, don't just settle for an expensive stop gap you'll regret, plenty of cheap options to keep things ticking over till you can get the right tank


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## Kalum (5 Apr 2018)

These guys are in Preston and definitely worth a shout
http://www.aquariums4life.co.uk/tropical-aquariums.php


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## alto (6 Apr 2018)

For the price difference I'd just collect the ADA90P from TGM (note weekend closure & the sale price)


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## Keith GH (6 Apr 2018)

I cracked a 5ft tank the insurance bill was very big.

Repairing/resealing a tank can and is often a problem.   A friend of mine is a retired glazier its the only job he every had.

There are many reason why resealing just will not last as long as a new tank.

Many glaziers will never repair an old tank as its not worth the effort especially if it leaks again.

I had a practically brand new tank only a few weeks old leak.  I took it back to the maker he took one look and threw it into the bin, he explained not worth doing even it was so new.

He gave me a new tank and I still have it. 

Keith


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## Barbara Turner (6 Apr 2018)

Has anyone bought a tank from aquariums for life (Preston) there photos look stunning. 

There is a big price difference if I go slightly larger, need to check that this both braceless. 
I just been reading about the difference between Ada and Opticlear and I'm not sure I'm enough of a perfectionist to be worried. 



ADA Cube Garden Large 120-H 120x45x60cm / 12mm 8 hooks incl.
£980.00 -  £686.00



 48" x 24" x 24" (Tropical)
1219 x 610 x 610mm
_Volume: Approx 450_
 £250


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## Keith GH (6 Apr 2018)

Info
http://www.tropicalfishsite.com/what-are-the-benefits-of-optiwhite-aquarium-glass/

My personal opinion only buy quality remembering you only get what you are paying for.

Keith
*What Are The Benefits Of Optiwhite Aquarium Glass*

If you have or are considering the route of buying a custom made fish tank you will often be faced with the decision of whether to go for Optiwhite glass or not.

To give you some background on what this actually is we have put together a few notes to try and help you make the decision as to whether you should go for this or not. Optiwhite glass is from glass makers Pilkington and in summary it is extra clear, low iron glass with very high light transmission. Given that fish tanks are for viewing primarily this is perfect for them and why most aquarium manufacturers give the option of using it.



 

It is clear to see from the image above that the optiwhite glass on top has much clearer edges and so the green of the normal glass (at the bottom of the image) is reflected across the panel giving a slight green tinge to the whole tank when light is shone on it.

It comes at a slight premium and you can expect to pay around 20% extra for having an optiwhite panel on the front of the aquarium so for say a standard 48″x24″x24″ you may pay around £250 for the tank, the optiwhite panel on the front would add an extra £50 bringing it up to £300 for the aquarium. This may seem like quite an uplift however the clarity it gives we think makes it well worth the while. If you look at it from the point of view that the aquarium itself is often only around 10%-20% of the cost of the overall aquarium when you factor in fish and equipment too (even more when going marine), this is actually a very small increased cost so if it is the financial side of things you are concerned about then my advice would be to go for it as you will only regret it if you don’t because you can’t change it after the tank has been set up!

So that is the downside of optiwhite glass, the cost. The benefits are a much clearer view of the fish and everything else in your tank, it almost looks like the glass isn’t even there. It is common to see a slight green tinge to a tank if it is quite deep and this is purely down to the glass used not being optiwhite so this is eradicated.

You can see form the image of the tank below the green on the left side panel compared to the front panel is quite evident.



 

Overall we would recommend you chose the option of the optiwhite glass for any panels which are going to be viewing ones, it can’t be changed afterwards and ultimately we keep fish for viewing pleasure and this upgrade will certainly add to that.


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## zozo (6 Apr 2018)

Keith GH said:


> I cracked a 5ft tank the insurance bill was very big.
> 
> Repairing/resealing a tank can and is often a problem.   A friend of mine is a retired glazier its the only job he every had.
> 
> ...



From a professional/glaziers standpoint of view you are absolutely correct.. Resealing a tank is a time and money wasting procedure.. It takes a few hours cleaning and it realy needs to be spot on clean. All looks easier than is.. And you only got maybe $100 worth of glas in the tank, that doesn't add up with 5 or 6 hours rubbing and cleaning with a $ 60 bill per hour. Than using new clean glass is cheaper and much beter ofcourse.

But for the hobbyist in the situation not having a new tank available that soon. Than role up sleeves clean and rub a few hours maybe a complete day, apply $10 kit and you can be up and running again in 3 days.. Than you have a good temporary fix and the time to search and think over for a new tank and no need buying a new one in a split second decision.


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## Barbara Turner (6 Apr 2018)

zozo said:


> From a professional/glaziers standpoint of view you are absolutely correct.. Resealing a tank is a time and money wasting procedure.. It takes a few hours cleaning and it realy needs to be spot on clean. All looks easier than is.. And you only got maybe $100 worth of glas in the tank, that doesn't add up with 5 or 6 hours rubbing and cleaning with a $ 60 bill per hour. Than using new clean glass is cheaper and much beter ofcourse.
> 
> But for the hobbyist in the situation not having a new tank available that soon. Than role up sleeves clean and rub a few hours maybe a complete day, apply $10 kit and you can be up and running again in 3 days.. Than you have a good temporary fix and the time to search and think over for a new tank and no need buying a new one in a split second decision.




I watched a few videos online and it seemed like a bad idea.
I came to the conclusion that I had to take the bottom out first then completely dismantle the tank then resilicon the whole tank.

My other big concern that even after doing all of this, the glass is still only going to be 5.5mm without the plastic trim the safety factor is lower than I would like. If I bump it in a few years the same could easily happen again.

On the other hand, If I have to wait another week for a custom tank, dropping the water level and plastering the inslide with sealant is going to reduce the drips.

Are there any sealants/glues I can use underwater that aren't going to kill the shrimps/fish as a temporary fix?
(leaving lots of tape on the outside)


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## zozo (6 Apr 2018)

Barbara Turner said:


> I watched a few videos online and it seemed like a bad idea.
> I came to the conclusion that I had to take the bottom out first then completely dismantle the tank then resilicon the whole tank.


As temporary fix the posted KING of DIY video shows what is sufficient no need to cut open the entire tank.. How long the new kit seam holds is a mater of how thoroughly you clean the corners. Cleaning out old kit thoroughle is a tidy job. Even if you cut the entire tank apart it will be hours cleaning, miss a spot and and new seams wont hold forever.



Barbara Turner said:


> Are there any sealants/glues I can use underwater that aren't going to kill the shrimps/fish as a temporary fix?



Yes TEC7 is such a kit.. There are also other brands polymer kits having the same properties. Oftenly used for repairing ponds or water containers or even cracked aqauriums.. It cures submersed.. It can be used on glass as temporary fix.. Because it is a polymer kit, it will absorb a few % water, that's why it is only temporary bonding to glass. glass is to smooth. The other thing is it will not bond very good to cured silicone.. A cracked panel is easy to fix with glueing in another sheet of glass.. But a leaking corner silicone seam is hard to repair..

What you could try is find a hardware store that sells plastic PVC corner profile 30 or 40mm wide profile. If not available aluminium profile can do as well. Make it the same lenght as the tanks heigth and sand the inside with sandpaper, kit this profile to the outside of the tank. The outside corner of the tank is easier to clean and degrease and kit safely. Than lower the water level in the tank low enough that no water is dripping out anymore, dry it, clean it and kit it. Wait 24 hours and refill the tank.  That's the easiest temporary fix i can think of..
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLACK-PL...LL-SIZES-10-15-20-25-30-40-50mm-/232030527177


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## ian_m (6 Apr 2018)

Splitting of tank seams is usually due to the tank being placed on a "bowed" surface causing tearing of the silicone in two opposite corners. Are you sure your stand/tank is on level floor ? My mates tank split down one corner (and started on opposite corner) due to one of the legs on his "chest of drawers" tank stand collapsing, causing bowing of bottom of tank and subsequent tearing of the silicone. He made a better stand and resiliconed tank and that was many many years ago and tank is still fine.


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## Barbara Turner (6 Apr 2018)

I quite like the idea of gluing an aluminum profile down the inside,  drop the water level to about 100mm, once the glue has set, remove the tape and hope it will hold together for long enough to glue something on the outside. 

spoke to aquariums4life this morning and the price rockets up when you go for braceless / rimless from what's listed on their site. 

1000x500x500 in  12mm optiwhite is £420 
1200x600x500 - 12mm optiwhite £519
1200x600x600 - 15mm optiwhite £960

Also going to take them about 6 weeks.... 

Glass alone is expensive though
http://www.glasswarehouse.co.uk/optiwhite-glass-low-iron-toughened-glass/


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## Barbara Turner (6 Apr 2018)

ian_m said:


> Splitting of tank seams is usually due to the tank being placed on a "bowed" surface causing tearing of the silicone in two opposite corners. Are you sure your stand/tank is on level floor ? My mates tank split down one corner (and started on opposite corner) due to one of the legs on his "chest of drawers" tank stand collapsing, causing bowing of bottom of tank and subsequent tearing of the silicone. He made a better stand and resiliconed tank and that was many many years ago and tank is still fine.



I'll check tonight, It's the standard fluval chipboard stand so I assumed so.. the floor is in a new extension so pretty flat
Did your friend completely strip and rebuild the tank or did he get away with just gluing on the front panel?

I'm still amazed that the fluval is only 5.5mm all the quotes I'm getting for a similar size tank are 12mm thick glass


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## zozo (6 Apr 2018)

Barbara Turner said:


> down the inside


nono, down the outside.. Inside wont fit, because of the Kit seam inside you don't have a straight 90° corner.. The outside corner is 90° straight.. You also shouldn't have aluminium permanently in the tank water..


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## zozo (6 Apr 2018)

Barbara Turner said:


> Glass alone is expensive though
> http://www.glasswarehouse.co.uk/optiwhite-glass-low-iron-toughened-glass/



Yes those UK prices also kinda shock me.. Why is everything so expensive in your country?
Last week i ordered glas to build me a tank 80cmx48cmx35 cm 8mm opti white.. Fortunately i'm in the position to get it at a retail price Ex VAT and payed
€117 cut to size.. That would be £ 102 what i payed for the glass only.

If i roughly calculate from the uk provider i come at £ 202 ex VAT.. That's double the price i pay..


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## Ryan Thang To (6 Apr 2018)

Hi
So sad about the tank. That would be my worst nightmare.

I had a look at complete aquatics they have them in 5 days delivery
https://www.completeaquatics.co.uk/...qua-ea-aquariums/evo-aquascaper-900-tank-only

Cheers
Ryan


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## ian_m (6 Apr 2018)

Barbara Turner said:


> Did your friend completely strip and rebuild the tank or did he get away with just gluing on the front panel?


Just removed the old silicone, cleaned and resiliconed the split seams.


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## Keith GH (7 Apr 2018)

Two of the biggest problems with a DIY is cleaning the glass to perfection plus applying the silicone correctly making sure there are no air bubbles in the silicon.

Keith


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## Tim Harrison (7 Apr 2018)

It's my worst nightmare as well. For what it's worth, If it were me I wouldn't attempt a repair. I wouldn't trust my handiwork and there is no way I'd be satisfied with the resulting silicon work.
Aquariums are reasonably cheap these days, I'd just buy a new one. I'd go with Ryan's suggestion, it's a great tank at a good price.


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## Keith GH (7 Apr 2018)

Tim 

Perfectly correct and it could be the cheapest in the long run.   If it  sprung a leak again you might find  no insurance claim as the repair work was not done by a qualified glazier company. 

Keith


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## zozo (7 Apr 2018)

Keith GH said:


> If it sprung a leak again you might find no insurance claim as the repair work was not done by a qualified glazier company



Now you are scaring me Keith, with proudly pressenting my self build aquairums.. 
But i just say it was the washing machine...


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## sparkyweasel (7 Apr 2018)

As the glass is only 5.5mm, I wouldn't repair it. But after replacing the tank, you could use the glass to make a couple of nice small tanks. Use them outdoors if you don't trust your first attempt at silicone work.


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## alto (7 Apr 2018)

I always end up with favourite side views on my tanks
It would drive me madd if only the front was optiwhite glass


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## Keith GH (8 Apr 2018)

Marcel

I recently had a Kitchen fire the builders repair cost was Au$50.000 and that did not include 5 days of 5 people doing all the cleaning smoke damage etc.

Some insurance companies will try anything to get out of paying.

Keith


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## leedsrhinojohn (8 Apr 2018)

My biggest concern would be lack of sleep, If you fixed it yourself would you sleep soundly at night? I wouldn't, I would be up and down checking the tank and worrying it might leak.
Best to get a new one imo, if for nothing else then for peace of mind.


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## zozo (8 Apr 2018)

Keith, tell me about it, i know... Seems to be the same all over the world.. And with many insurances you only are insured you get a headage if you ever need them. So actualy they can not be accused of lying, you got what you payed for, they made something sure..

Short story of a guy with new interiour the insurance company said Wow! Sir, that's a $100.000,- you need to insure this!! So he did insured it for the adviced $100.000,- for $70 a month.. 6 years later something sadly happened and he needed to claim this insurance. Than the company said, but Sir!? We are not going to refund you $100.000 for 6 year old stuff!!  Minus economic depreciation we can not give you more than $ 15.000.

Go figure  spend a $100.000 and with an insurance premium 7 years x $70 p/m = $49200 to get only 10% of the total investment in return if something unfortunate happens. If that aint a headage..


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## ian_m (8 Apr 2018)

My mate DIY repaired the torn seams in his tank in 1992, just asked him, and tank us still fine. Obvious one seam is different than the rest but 26 years later water is still in tank.


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## Keith GH (9 Apr 2018)

Marcel 

My insurance is new for old I checked that out very early (many years ago)    

When my tank cracked it done a lot of damage to the cabinet I built.  The biggest difference I am a Cabinet maker and had teaching the trade for over 20 years then.    The builder claimed for all the work then contracted me to do the job.

Keith


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## Barbara Turner (9 Apr 2018)

Hey All,
Thanks for everyone's support and suggestions. I just bought a new red sea reefer 350 tank, in the optiwhite glass I wanted.  
I got a very good deal and don't have to wait for 6 - 8 weeks.
A little bit heavier than the Juwel in 12mm glass

Pipework is going to be the next fun challenge as I want to hide everything in the weir, then start the fun process of slowing moving everything across. 

If the plastic trim was still in one piece I probably would have glued it back together.


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## alto (9 Apr 2018)

Congrats

They are stunning tanks - white or black?


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## Keith GH (10 Apr 2018)

Barbara 

You made the correct decision in getting a quality new tank.

Keith


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## Barbara Turner (10 Apr 2018)

It's in Black, really pleased with the tank.  Just going to be lots of work moving everything over.  
Has anyone found any pool filter sand that's a similar color to ADA La Plata Sand?


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## alto (10 Apr 2018)

Texture, no
Color, not really similar, but well enough 

If you really like La Plata, just pick some up - sand layer should be very thin so don't need that much (unless you're planting on regular sand turnover, maintenance &/or sand dwellers)

There are some reef sands that are very similar but then may impact pH (& just as $$$ anyway)


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## castle (15 Apr 2018)

Does anyone else have insurance for water damage? Every year when I change or renew I make sure my aquariums if they leak I am fully covered, has an excess tho.


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## Angus (15 Apr 2018)

You will probably struggle to find a sand with the quality of colour variations as La Plata, but any of the lighter tone pool filter sands should be a good 2nd best.

I don't have any insurance against water damage, i don't even think i'm covered to have aquariums in my flat...


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## kadoxu (16 Apr 2018)

castle said:


> Does anyone else have insurance for water damage? Every year when I change or renew I make sure my aquariums if they leak I am fully covered, has an excess tho.


I do. I have contents insurance that covers me as a tenant, so if one of my aquariums leaks and damages the landlord's floor, I'm covered.


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## Barbara Turner (16 Apr 2018)

Just installed the new tank  




 
Now the fun bit setting everything up. I've moved the external filter over, and will transfer some water over probably still end up with 80% ro water. next step is moving over plants. Does anyone know if I will get the same nitrite spike and algae bloom When I start moving the fish and shrimps over? Bearing in mind Ive also brought new substrate.


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## alto (16 Apr 2018)

Confirm with tank manufacturer that you don't need some sort of mat underneath the tank - mat protects against vibration & _slight_ unevenness of the furniture top board 

When I set up a new tank, new substrate, new plants etc, some (or entire filter) established bio-media, I follow a routine of daily water change (ADA method) for the first weeks (until plants are established & actively growing) or third day water changes (Tropica 90 Day App), gradually tapering off water change frequency as tank (& inhabitants) settle

If livestock, I only feed lightly, alternate days for the first couple weeks (again depending on how quickly tank seems to establish) - this means that shrimp & some fish will be actively looking/consuming algae

I don't recall if you're adding CO2? Or Liquid carbon?

I find algae is minimal as long as tank is densely planted or significant number of fast growing stems 
I always try to have shrimp & snail crew in to help with any algae as it starts

If I have one at hand (or fish are very sensitive wild caught species) I'll include a Seachem Ammonia Alert (changing water at the slightest hint of color change)

Occasionally I'll still see a significant diatom outbreak (otocinclus seem to love this algae)

I rarely measure tank/tap water parameters so just have some 5in1 test strips at hand - mostly just to check there are no surprises between tanks or tank vs tap 
In the past I've done comprehensive testing of tank conditions, now I just monitor shrimp & fish behaviour, plant appearance ... always just doing a water change if I feel anything seems a bit off


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## Barbara Turner (17 Apr 2018)

There is a red/ yellow foam exercise mat under the tank cut slightly small, it does a surprising good camouflage attempt in the photo. 

I run full co2 but I also spot dose any algae with liquid co2 and fertilize via EI. 

What do people think to two 50% water changes a week?
I also need to come up with a easier way of doing water changes, Total tank volume is now 320L so I need to store and move approx 150 litres of water. 

Also reduce the photo period down to 6 hours. 

I'm still hoping that by swapping water from the damaged tank daily and by using the established  external filter everything should settle down far quicker than when establihing a new tank. 

Two cherry shrimps are now berried so need to get them moved over but ideally not kill them off.  

I have some water fleas and tadpoles in a separate cold water nano tank ( 2 year old daughter) , I read somewhere that  water fleas are very sensitive to water quality has anyone tried using them as a quick water quality test?


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## sciencefiction (17 Apr 2018)

Barbara Turner said:


> Does anyone know if I will get the same nitrite spike and algae bloom When I start moving the fish and shrimps over? Bearing in mind Ive also brought new substrate.



About a month ago I set up a tank for new fish. I stuffed the external with cycled filter media, everything else was new. I did daily large water changes, started from around 80-90% and then gradually decreased down to 50% every other day on the third week. Now over a month since the set up all is well, no issues at all. The fish are wild caught and generally sensitive type. Cycling a tank may take 3-4 weeks. If one starts with large amount of cycled media, the time is cut significantly but I like to keep doing water changes to avoid even the minimum of issues. I didn't watch what I was feeding at all as I had new fish I was trying to entice to eat, so lots of left overs I had to siphon out daily. I can't comment on algae as I was trying to grow algae and I bumped the light to 15-18hrs a day, so yeah, I got algae but not as much and as fast as one would imagine....


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## Madhav (17 Apr 2018)

Barbara Turner said:


> Hi all
> Just a tip the plastic trim at the top of the tank is structural.
> I carefully removed it last night, came down this morning and one of the side silicone seams has split emptying 180 litres of water across the floor.  The fish were luckily alive in the bottom inch of water.
> 
> Thanks



I have two Juwel tanks, Rio 400 and Rio 125 and I love them.
What made you remove the plastic trim? your personal preference to have a braceless?
if it is the case, your taste might have changed over time. I guess.

your experience is very useful for me especially, i do play a lot with my equipment/tanks


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## Barbara Turner (17 Apr 2018)

sciencefiction said:


> I can't comment on algae as I was trying to grow algae and I bumped the light to 15-18hrs a day, so yeah,



Just out of interest why do you would you want to grow algae?  I'm quite curious to know what your tank looks like. 




Madhav said:


> have two Juwel tanks, Rio 400 and Rio 125 and I love them.
> What made you remove the plastic trim? your personal preference to have a braceless?
> if it is the case, your taste might have changed over time.



The T5 lamp didn't work when I bought the tank so I changed to a homemade 200w LED that sits above the tank. so straight away I was running without the top open .   Removing the top Brace was cosmetic.


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## ian_m (17 Apr 2018)

1. You must put some form of matting under the tank or else the bottom might crack to surface unevenness. Either use specialist aquarium mats from fish shops or section of carry/yoga mat. You must have something to protect the bottom of the tank. My mate cracked the base of his tank due to it resting on a piece of gravel.

2. If you have a fully cycled filter & are planting plants probably no need to further cycle the tank. Just add dechlorinated water and good to go. The cycled filter and plants will quickly mop up any ammonia produced by the new substrate. If worried either do water changes or add Prime or Kordon Amquel Plus daily which will remove any ammonia. My mate recovered his failed tank this way with no fish deaths or plant losses after tank cracked.


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## Barbara Turner (17 Apr 2018)

ian_m said:


> You must put some form of matting under the tank or else the bottom might crack to surface unevenness. Either use specialist aquarium mats from fish shops or section of carry/yoga mat. You must have something to protect the bottom of the tank. My mate cracked the base of his tank due to it resting on a piece of gravel.



There is a red/ orange yoga / exercise closed cell foam mat under the tank. It's just a similar colour to the oak. 

I don't think I did the Eheim filter any favours,  I came down this morning with it just making a buzzing noise.. It started up again as soon I siphoned some water through it.
If it has failed I'm just wondering if it's cheaper to buy an external pump and remove the impeller and just use it as a canister filter.   

Anyone recommend a size? I read somewhere that you need 10x the tank volume, this gives me 3000Lph / 660gph  
Looking at the Eheim universal 3400 this draws 80watts...My current filter draws 12w I think?? 

Will my lilly pipe be like a jet washer?


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## dw1305 (19 Apr 2018)

Hi all, 





Barbara Turner said:


> It started up again as soon I siphoned some water through it.


That sounds like an air leak somewhere in the hoses.

If you rock the filter back and forwards until the air is purged (you may have to turn it on and off once or twice) it should run silently. If it keeps getting air in it you have a non-gas tight leak.

These "air leaks" often don't leak water out, they suck the air in through very small "holes" in the hose or filter head gasket via the venturi effect. 

cheers Darrel


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## sciencefiction (19 Apr 2018)

Barbara Turner said:


> Just out of interest why do you would you want to grow algae? I'm quite curious to know what your tank looks like.



The fish are a group of hillstream loaches. They eat the green algae/biofilm on the stones. They were rasping on the stones even before the algae grew in, lol, so I had to help them out further by blasting the light.  The tank is nothing special, stones, manzanita sticks and sand. 



Barbara Turner said:


> If it has failed I'm just wondering if it's cheaper to buy an external pump and remove the impeller and just use it as a canister filter.



I did that to my old eheim filter.I had an external pump already so I just put the two together in work and have been running that on one tank for over a year.


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## Barbara Turner (24 Apr 2018)

Hey All, just removd the impeller from my external filter. Can I confirm I should go,

External filter, jebao pump, external heater, co2, tank

The new tank has been really stable, amazing the difference the filter medai and established plants make.


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## alto (25 Apr 2018)

You've put a pull & push load on your pump - what's it designed for?


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## Barbara Turner (25 Apr 2018)

Its the Jecod DCP-4000 DC Pump which I'm guessing is mainly used  as a return sump pump in marine tanks. 

It seems reasonably flexible though and  says in can be used dry or submersed also comes with various attachments allowing me to connect 12 and 16mm hoses to inlet and outlet. 

I would still rather filter my water before the pump. It also means that if the canister filter leaks it will suck in air rather than spray water all over the floor if the seals do struggle with greater pressure. 

Does anyone know what order your standard ehiem canister filters are? 


www.completeaquatics.co.uk/jecod-dcp4000-pump


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## Barbara Turner (1 May 2018)

Hi all 

Here's some photo's of the new tank

The moss has definitely had better days, you can tell the top half has half died,  Plants also need a trim but I'm waiting unto I do a good clean and water change.  
Hopefully, now I have Co2 and the light back up and working  things will start growing.

PS black background is a nightmare to photograph, spent half the time trying to reduce reflections.    

Brown foam filter is being replaced with a black one, I've ordered one from china along with a collection of new toys but taking a while to arrive.


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## kadoxu (2 May 2018)

Looks nice!

Is that Java Fern planted in the substrate? You can't cover the "roots" (sorry can't remember the proper name at the moment) of the Java Fern, or it will die.


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## Steve Smith (2 May 2018)

kadoxu said:


> You can't cover the "roots" (sorry can't remember the proper name at the moment) of the Java Fern, or it will die.



Rhizome 

Doesn't look like it's buried to me but yes, if it is you run the risk of the plants rotting.

Loving the setup, those lights and light stand look great!


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## kadoxu (2 May 2018)

Steve Smith said:


> Rhizome


Yup! That's the word I was looking for!


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## Barbara Turner (2 May 2018)

I'll get around to anchoring it to some stone, wonders of super glue. It will take a while to rot as the gravel is reasonably course.  



Steve Smith said:


> Loving the setup, those lights and light stand to look great!



The light stands started off life as a budget stool at Ikea, the Aluminium parts still need a coated titanium coloured paint.


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