# Dosing hydrogen peroxide H2O2 with dosing pumps and diffuser?



## enb141 (17 Feb 2020)

Hi guys, after seeing how Chihiros / Twinstar and Söchtinger Oxydator work, then I got the idea about why not dose H2O2 with a dosing pump in small quantities so with an difuser so this, AFAIK you will oxygenate the water and will also apply the Oxydator as the Söchtinger Oxydator and also will work as if you had an chihiros or twinstar generating the bubbles.


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## Witcher (17 Feb 2020)

enb141 said:


> Hi guys, after seeing how Chihiros / Twinstar and Söchtinger Oxydator work, then I got the idea about why not dose H2O2 with a dosing pump in small quantities so with an difuser so this, AFAIK you will oxygenate the water and will also apply the Oxydator as the Söchtinger Oxydator and also will work as if you had an chihiros or twinstar generating the bubbles.


Plants can also oxygenate the water, would it be better to have more of them instead?


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## Kezzab (17 Feb 2020)

Also, prolonged use of peroxide is not good for plants. Use is limited to temporary attempts to deal with algae, particularly BGA.
K


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## Simon Cole (17 Feb 2020)

But the electrolysis equipment has more of a wow factor.


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## Barbara Turner (17 Feb 2020)

Simon Cole said:


> But the electrolysis equipment has more of a wow factor.



Would make a cool volcano if you hid it inside..


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## Simon Cole (17 Feb 2020)

@Barbara Turner   Where have you been all my life


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## enb141 (17 Feb 2020)

Witcher said:


> Plants can also oxygenate the water, would it be better to have more of them instead?



They oxigenate at day, but not at night, that was one of the reasons I was using a chihiros but my mesh died so instead of buying a new mesh I was thinking to use H2O2 instead to do the same



Kezzab said:


> Also, prolonged use of peroxide is not good for plants. Use is limited to temporary attempts to deal with algae, particularly BGA.
> K



That's why I'm thinking of dosing it in small quantities, the Söchtinger Oxydator releases drops of H2O2, have you ever seen an Söchtinger Oxydator?


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## Ed Wiser (17 Feb 2020)

I have used an Oxydator. Switched to the tiwnstar As it helps me keep an eye on my TDS too. Once tds gets above 325 the twinstar will stop working


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## dw1305 (17 Feb 2020)

Hi all,





enb141 said:


> They oxigenate at day, but not at night,


Plants <“massively”> contribute to oxygenation. People who don’t keep planted tanks often assume that plants don’t make that much difference, but they do.

The amount of oxygen produced can be measured by plant growth, the growth is the difference between the oxygen evolved and the CO2 incorporated.

A tank with plants have much better levels of oxygenation than an unplanted ones, even at night.





enb141 said:


> ........was thinking to use H2O2 instead to do the same. That's why I'm thinking of dosing it in small quantities, the Söchtinger Oxydator releases drops of H2O2, have you ever seen an Söchtinger Oxydator?


We have a few <” oxydator”> posts (about 1/2 way down the page).

Cheers Darrel


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## sparkyweasel (17 Feb 2020)

The Oxydator should not be releasing H2O2 into the tank. The H2O2 should be contained within the unit where the catalyst splits it into water and oxygen, all that should be released into the tank is that highly oxygenated water.


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## enb141 (18 Feb 2020)

dw1305 said:


> Hi all,Plants <“massively”> contribute to oxygenation. People who don’t keep planted tanks often assume that plants don’t make that much difference, but they do.
> 
> The amount of oxygen produced can be measured by plant growth, the growth is the difference between the oxygen evolved and the CO2 incorporated.
> 
> ...



Plants at night consume oxygen, and also even if planted tanks have better oxygenation at night, I still need more oxygen at night, the prof is that my Danios keep at top at nights.



sparkyweasel said:


> The Oxydator should not be releasing H2O2 into the tank. The H2O2 should be contained within the unit where the catalyst splits it into water and oxygen, all that should be released into the tank is that highly oxygenated water.



They release H2O2 to the tank, after the catalyst releases oxygen, a tiny part of H2O2 enters to the tank.


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## dw1305 (18 Feb 2020)

Hi all, 





enb141 said:


> Plants at night consume oxygen,


They do, but you will start from  a much higher level of oxygenation at "lights off". The way to look at it is in a non-planted tank it is always "night".





enb141 said:


> I still need more oxygen at night, the prof is that my Danios keep at top at nights.


I haven't kept Danios for a long time, but I'm going to assume that is an oxygen effect. 

A full tank shot would help and also a description of your filter and what filter media it contains?

cheers Darrel


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## Wookii (18 Feb 2020)

sparkyweasel said:


> The Oxydator should not be releasing H2O2 into the tank. The H2O2 should be contained within the unit where the catalyst splits it into water and oxygen, all that should be released into the tank is that highly oxygenated water.



That's not how they work unfortunately (it would be more reassuring if they did). All the little catalysts do is generate a tiny amount of oxygen within the glass vessel, this gas causes displacement in the container which forces H2O2 out through the tiny holes in the plastic cap at the bottom, at a controlled rate, and into the tank where is reacts (presumably with elements in the tanks water) and splits out into H2O and Oxygen.


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## ian_m (18 Feb 2020)

Wookii said:


> All the little catalysts do is generate a tiny amount of oxygen within the glass vessel, this gas causes displacement in the container which forces H2O2 out through the tiny holes in the plastic cap at the bottom, at a controlled rate, and into the tank where is reacts (presumably with elements in the tanks water) and splits out into H2O and Oxygen.


Also any H2O2 in the water would react almost instantly with any organics in the water, thus probably completely negating any oxygenating affects. When I got a tour, around the "back" of a zoo, years ago, they auto-dosed H2O2 (@35% strength, which I am sure you are not allowed to have any more) into the penguin water to remove organics. Interestingly they claimed their water purification was "chemical free" ??? H2O2 and calcium chloride they added to the water were obviously not classed as chemicals...


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## Wookii (18 Feb 2020)

ian_m said:


> Also any H2O2 in the water would react almost instantly with any organics in the water, thus probably completely negating any oxygenating affects. When I got a tour, around the "back" of a zoo, years ago, they auto-dosed H2O2 (@35% strength, which I am sure you are not allowed to have any more) into the penguin water to remove organics. Interestingly they claimed their water purification was "chemical free" ??? H2O2 and calcium chloride they added to the water were obviously not classed as chemicals...



I imagine a fair proportion of the H202 does react with organics, which is why the Oxydators are said (in the marketing literature) to aid water quality and clarity. They do appear to generate a steady stream of bubbles though, so I imagine they do provide an increase in DO:



Interestingly when I went to Proshrimp for a visit, they had one of these in every single shrimp tank.


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## enb141 (18 Feb 2020)

dw1305 said:


> Hi all, They do, but you will start from  a much higher level of oxygenation at "lights off". The way to look at it is in a non-planted tank it is always "night".I haven't kept Danios for a long time, but I'm going to assume that is an oxygen effect.
> 
> A full tank shot would help and also a description of your filter and what filter media it contains?
> 
> cheers Darrel



70 us gallons tank with fluval 307 canister, when my chihiros was new, my Danios were not swimming at top.



ian_m said:


> Also any H2O2 in the water would react almost instantly with any organics in the water, thus probably completely negating any oxygenating affects. When I got a tour, around the "back" of a zoo, years ago, they auto-dosed H2O2 (@35% strength, which I am sure you are not allowed to have any more) into the penguin water to remove organics. Interestingly they claimed their water purification was "chemical free" ??? H2O2 and calcium chloride they added to the water were obviously not classed as chemicals...



That's why chihiros, twinstar and similars don't run all the time, they just release bubbles in small amounts.


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## dw1305 (18 Feb 2020)

Hi all, 





enb141 said:


> when my chihiros was new, my Danios were not swimming at top.


That is useful.





enb141 said:


> 70 us gallons tank with fluval 307 canister


It is more what is in the filter in terms of media? and how heavily planted the tank is?

I know from talking to people on other forums that "planted" and "heavily planted" don't always mean the same thing to different people. When I say <"heavily planted"> I mean this:





But I know that for some other people "planted" means is has a plant in it (not necessarily an aquatic one), and "heavily planted" means there are two plants.

I don't personally see any need for <"Twinstars or Oxydators">, but I am also a fan of having plenty of oxygen in the tank. You can definitely tip over the edge if you use a strong oxidiser, and this can even occur just with the oxygen from photosynthesis <"under a special set of circumstances">. 

Have a look at <"aeration and dissolved oxygen">. I wrote it, about 10 years ago, for rheophilic plec keepers (these fish are particularly vulnerable to low oxygen levels), but it is relevant to all fish keeping.

The issue with canister filters is that it is possible for the filter media, in your canister filter, to actually have an adverse effect on water quality in the tank, if the water becomes oxygen depleted within the filter. Have a look at <"Oase 250..filter mods">, it explains in more detail about what happens during nitrification.

cheers Darrel


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## Oldguy (18 Feb 2020)

dw1305 said:


> low oxygen levels



I think that the 'Bohr effect' is often overlooked. As a user of injected CO2, I am always watching for behavioral changes in fish. If the catfish are taking the odd gulp of air but the rummy noses are bushy tailed then all is well. Thought about drip feeding H2O2 but not worth the effort, too much like a knife edge. Good article Darrel - 'aeration and dissolved oxygen'.


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## Wookii (18 Feb 2020)

dw1305 said:


> Hi all, That is useful.It is more what is in the filter in terms of media? and how heavily planted the tank is?
> 
> I know from talking to people on other forums that "planted" and "heavily planted" don't always mean the same thing to different people. When I say <"heavily planted"> I mean this:
> 
> ...



You raise some interesting points as always Darrel. 

I hope it's not going too far OT, but I find 'Heavily planted' hard to clearly define. The image of Tim's tank you posted above, isn't what I'd call heavily planted per se, that's just overgrown in that image lol (hopefully Tim won't mind me saying that) - 'Planted' to me suggests some intent as to the quantity and position of the plant mass. Purely out of interest, would you still define that scape as heavily planted once in its manicured form?:



 

I ask the question because I can't make my own mind up. On the one hand I think 'heavily planted' usually means the vast majority of the substrate is covered with plants, on the other hand though it makes me wonder whether, for example, Igwami style scapes, can be defined as 'heavily planted' or not?



 

Coming back on topic then, at what level are we happy that the planting (or plant mass) is heavy enough to optimise the level of DO naturally? It bugs me that I can't accurately measure DO myself and actualy test empirically - maybe I will stump up for a DO meter one day.

For the Twinstars and Oxydators, personally I feel if they help to optimise the DO content of an aquarium, and have no negative side effects, they can be of benefit. Sure, they are not essential, and there are many many good tanks out there that have never used them. But I do believe optimised levels of DO are good for fish, good for minimising algal growth, and good for general tank health, and for me personally, I'm not convinced I can get sufficient surface agitation and/or plant photosynthesis to keep DO at optimum levels 24/7.

For me personally I like to 'check box' things, and having as few things to worry about with my tank as possible. EI with an auto-doser takes care of ferts, and allows me to tick that box that and not worry about the nutrient side of things too much. CO2 injection allows me to check the 'carbon' box and not have to worry unduly about insufficient levels. My auto-water changer ensures there is regular removal of organics in the water column and fresh water in the tank, so I can tick that box and not have to worry about that. 

So the the Twinstar/Oxydator for me is another check box exercise that ensures there is plenty of DO around the tank at all times, and so it is another thing I can tick the box for and not have to worry about it.


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## enb141 (18 Feb 2020)

dw1305 said:


> Hi all, That is useful.It is more what is in the filter in terms of media? and how heavily planted the tank is?
> 
> I know from talking to people on other forums that "planted" and "heavily planted" don't always mean the same thing to different people. When I say <"heavily planted"> I mean this:
> 
> ...



My tank, accordingly to your picture is 40% planted, if that picture means 100 % planted.

About aeriation, I've found, after reading your article that my tank has less area than most tanks, the dimensions are 100Wx45Dx60H

I really think the oxydizer (Chihiros) did a good job oxygenating at nights in my tank so that's why I'm thinking about dosing H2O2, the reason is because H2O2 is easier to find and because in the long run will be cheaper, the chihiros/Twinstar needs to change the net every 6/8 months but with H2O2 for the price of even 1 Chihiros replacement will have plenty of solution for months, of course the dosing pump will be the expensive part but the rest is pretty much cheaper.


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## enb141 (18 Feb 2020)

Wookii said:


> You raise some interesting points as always Darrel.
> 
> I hope it's not going too far OT, but I find 'Heavily planted' hard to clearly define. The image of Tim's tank you posted above, isn't what I'd call heavily planted per se, that's just overgrown in that image lol (hopefully Tim won't mind me saying that) - 'Planted' to me suggests some intent as to the quantity and position of the plant mass. Purely out of interest, would you still define that scape as heavily planted once in its manicured form?:
> 
> ...



A lot of people here and other planted tank forums think that Twinstars/Oxydators are snake oil, I don't think so, specially after using a Chihiros for more than a year, I can say that maybe not everybody needs them but for me has become a check as you have mentioned above.

Since nobody seems to be dosing H2O2 with a dosing pump, probably I'm gonna be one of the few/first to do it. I just need to know how much and how ofter to release the H2O2 in the tank.

By the way H2O2 food grade means water plus H2O2 right, nothing else?


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## Wookii (18 Feb 2020)

enb141 said:


> A lot of people here and other planted tank forums think that Twinstars/Oxydators are snake oil, I don't think so, specially after using a Chihiros for more than a year, I can say that maybe not everybody needs them but for me has become a check as you have mentioned above.
> 
> Since nobody seems to be dosing H2O2 with a dosing pump, probably I'm gonna be one of the few/first to do it. I just need to know how much and how ofter to release the H2O2 in the tank.
> 
> By the way H2O2 food grade means water plus H2O2 right, nothing else?



I don't think they are really snake oil either as such. One of my other hobbies is hi-fi - check that out if you really want to see physics defying snake oil! I don't think the companies that sell them do themselves any favours with their marketing claims though - they would do themselves much less disservice if they clearly stated what the devices did and how it did it, and produced empirical data on the direct effects they have.

As for dosing H202 directly to your tank, I think you are taking a big risk. If you think about how much a Sochting Oxydator doses into a tank. The Mini I think takes around 30ml for lets say a 60 litre tank, and doses that over around two weeks (I'm very roughly estimating here) - that's 0.036ml per day, dosed gradually over a a 24 hour period.

I don't know your tank size, but even if you have a larger tank, of say, 300 litres, that's still only 0.216ml per day spread over 24 hours. I don't think you'll find an auto-doser accurate enough to enable you to do that? There is also always the potential risk of electrical failure and overdosing.


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## ian_m (18 Feb 2020)

Wookii said:


> I don't know your tank size, but even if you have a larger tank, of say, 300 litres, that's still only 0.216ml per day spread over 24 hours. I don't think you'll find an auto-doser accurate enough to enable you to do that? There is also always the potential risk of electrical failure and overdosing.


Below is a link to Williamson peristaltic pumps, which I use for macro, micro and liquid carbon dosing.
https://www.williamson-shop.co.uk/100-series-with-ac-powered-motors-3274-p.asp

The smallest model 100-008-230-008/4 is less than 1ml per minute dosing. Looking at data sheet 0.8mm silicone is 0.025ml per rev, @ 8prm -> 0.2ml per minute.
100 = Silicone tubing
008 = 8 rpm
230 = 230V
008 = 0.8mm tubing
/4 = 4 rollers (so no one way valve needed).

Just need to check silicone tubing (as opposed to Viton or Norprene) is suitable for H2O2.


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## Wookii (18 Feb 2020)

ian_m said:


> Below is a link to Williamson peristaltic pumps, which I use for macro, micro and liquid carbon dosing.
> https://www.williamson-shop.co.uk/100-series-with-ac-powered-motors-3274-p.asp
> 
> The smallest model 100-008-230-008/4 is less than 1ml per minute dosing. Looking at data sheet 0.8mm silicone is 0.025ml per rev, @ 8prm -> 0.2ml per minute.
> ...



Thanks for the link Ian - Wow 0.025ml is a tiny dose. Does it need to a PLC to control it, or can it be used with a pre-made controller like the GHL Models? (https://www.aquariumcomputer.com/products/profilux-aquarium-controller/profilux-4/)


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## Witcher (18 Feb 2020)

enb141 said:


> Since nobody seems to be dosing H2O2 with a dosing pump, probably I'm gonna be one of the few/first to do it.


Can you make journal of that? I'm really curios how it will go, especially with regards to the general bacteria activity and fertility of the fish/shrimps etc.


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## ian_m (18 Feb 2020)

Wookii said:


> Thanks for the link Ian - Wow 0.025ml is a tiny dose. Does it need to a PLC to control it, or can it be used with a pre-made controller like the GHL Models? (https://www.aquariumcomputer.com/products/profilux-aquarium-controller/profilux-4/)


Just switch it via a standard mains timer for one minute in 24 hours and you will get 0.2ml plopped in the tank.

Other idea is dilute your H2O2 solution say 4 to one with distilled/RO water and dose this amount 4 times a day.


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## dw1305 (18 Feb 2020)

Hi all, 





Oldguy said:


> I think that the 'Bohr effect' is often overlooked


This has come <"in discussion"> of the likely effects of 30 ppm CO2 on fish and why higher oxygen levels might allow you to "get away" with higher CO2 levels.  

cheers Darrel


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## Wookii (18 Feb 2020)

ian_m said:


> Just switch it via a standard mains timer for one minute in 24 hours and you will get 0.2ml plopped in the tank.
> 
> Other idea is dilute your H2O2 solution say 4 to one with distilled/RO water and dose this amount 4 times a day.



I don't think one dose would work. Dilution is certainly an idea, assuming it doesn't cause the H2O2 to start to break down. I still wouldn't be happy at four doses a day though.

I think the ideal would be to maintain the O2 introduction at a consistent level by dosing gradually every few minutes. Ideally (using the 300 litre tank example) you want the 0.216ml to be dosed evenly over 24 hours. Thats 8.5 rotations of your linked doser. Ideally then you'd want that doser to make 8.5 rotations evenly over 24 hours, based on whatever its minimum movement or on-time is?

Either the doser needs to be able to operate in single digit 'seconds' of 'on' time, or the solution needs to be heavily diluted I guess?


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## ian_m (18 Feb 2020)

Wookii said:


> Either the doser needs to be able to operate in single digit 'seconds' of 'on' time, or the solution needs to be heavily diluted I guess?


Most standard mains timers are only accurate to 1 minute on time.

A PLC could be programmed with 7.5seconds on 8 times in 24hours no issue, but is not a cheap way to do it, unless PLC is part of a bigger tank control system.


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## Ed Wiser (18 Feb 2020)

The GHL doser SA model runs with out a controller as it has one built into it. 
They do have slave models also. 

https://store.aquariumcomputer.com/de/product_info.php?info=p164_ghl-doser-2-1-stand-alone.html


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## dw1305 (18 Feb 2020)

Hi all, 





Wookii said:


> Purely out of interest, would you still define that scape as heavily planted once in its manicured form?:


I probably would.





Wookii said:


> on the other hand though it makes me wonder whether, for example, Igwami style scapes, can be defined as 'heavily planted' or not?


In that case I probably wouldn't. 

The way I look at it is _how many handfuls of plants do you have?_ with floating or emergent plants counting as "_handfuls x 2"_. It isn't very scientific, but it allows me to estimate the likely filtration capacity of the tank.





Wookii said:


> The image of Tim's tank you posted above, isn't what I'd call heavily planted per se, that's just overgrown in that image


That is how all of mine look eventually, I let the amount of light govern the plant mass, so even low light tanks eventually fill up with _Cryptocoryne_ spp., _Anubias_, moss and ferns, it just takes a lot longer to get there. 





Wookii said:


> For the Twinstars and Oxydators, personally I feel if they help to optimise the DO content of an aquarium, and have no negative side effects, they can be of benefit.


I would be a little more worried about the oxydator, purely because of the risk management aspect of using H2O2, for me the benefits are never going to out way the risks. 

I also have <"structural leaf litter"> in the tanks, so again it would be counter-productive. If I kept LakeTanganyika <"Goby" Cichlids"> I might feel a little bit different. 

cheers Darrel


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## Oldguy (18 Feb 2020)

ian_m said:


> dilute your H2O2 solution



In a dirt cheep model I once considered very dilute H2O2 added drip by drip via a burette, obviously not a uniform addition but lack of head room and the fiddle faff of it all it remained just a thought. Went for a 'dry' trickle filter to deal with easy BOD's. Still tight on head room but it runs 24/7, even when I forget about it. The things we exercise our minds on.


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## enb141 (19 Feb 2020)

Wookii said:


> I don't think they are really snake oil either as such. One of my other hobbies is hi-fi - check that out if you really want to see physics defying snake oil! I don't think the companies that sell them do themselves any favours with their marketing claims though - they would do themselves much less disservice if they clearly stated what the devices did and how it did it, and produced empirical data on the direct effects they have.
> 
> As for dosing H202 directly to your tank, I think you are taking a big risk. If you think about how much a Sochting Oxydator doses into a tank. The Mini I think takes around 30ml for lets say a 60 litre tank, and doses that over around two weeks (I'm very roughly estimating here) - that's 0.036ml per day, dosed gradually over a a 24 hour period.
> 
> I don't know your tank size, but even if you have a larger tank, of say, 300 litres, that's still only 0.216ml per day spread over 24 hours. I don't think you'll find an auto-doser accurate enough to enable you to do that? There is also always the potential risk of electrical failure and overdosing.



My tank is about 71 gallons (270 Liters) (100cm W x 45cm D x 60 cm H) I've found some Stepper Peristaltic Pumps that can flow between 0-140 ml/min and other that can between 0-400ml/min so assuming a drop is 0.05ml and I have to dose about 0.200ml per day then I'm gonna need to dose about 4 drops daily, so in other words one drop every 6 hours, but they are using 6% H2O2 so if I use 3% I can use more drops.



Witcher said:


> Can you make journal of that? I'm really curios how it will go, especially with regards to the general bacteria activity and fertility of the fish/shrimps etc.



I will for sure


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## Wookii (19 Feb 2020)

enb141 said:


> My tank is about 71 gallons (270 Liters) (100cm W x 45cm D x 60 cm H) I've found some Stepper Peristaltic Pumps that can flow between 0-140 ml/min and other that can between 0-400ml/min so assuming a drop is 0.05ml and I have to dose about 0.200ml per day then I'm gonna need to dose about 4 drops daily, so in other words one drop every 6 hours, but they are using 6% H2O2 so if I use 3% I can use more drops.



I'm no expert in any of this, but I still think four, or even 8 doses in a 24 hour period is too irregular, and will create peaks and troughs in the DO level rather than a consistent level. Darrel (@dw1305 ) or someone else in this thread will likely be able to provide a more educated and informed opinion on how quickly added DO will quickly return to pre-dosed levels following a dosing, but I would expect slower dosing (think every few minutes) to result in a more consistent and even DO level.

I think, if you are going to do this, you need to be able to evidence the effects empirically, which means stumping up for a DO meter and taking regular scheduled measurements in multiple positions in the tank, so you can verify that a) your dosing is actually increasing DO levels, and b) your dosing frequency is maintaining consistent DO levels. Your starting point in that case of course would be to establish what your baseline DO profile is for you tanks over several 24 hour periods.

I've thought about doing this myself for a while to see precisely what effect the likes of the Twinstar and the Oxydator have on DO, but I'm not sure what type of meter would be accurate enough (though an accuracy of 0.5ppm should be sufficient).

@dw1305 Would this level of meter be sufficient do you think? Amazon or can you recommend an alternative at a similar 'budget' level (I know some DO meters go into the £'000's)


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## enb141 (19 Feb 2020)

Wookii said:


> I'm no expert in any of this, but I still think four, or even 8 doses in a 24 hour period is too irregular, and will create peaks and troughs in the DO level rather than a consistent level. Darrel (@dw1305 ) or someone else in this thread will likely be able to provide a more educated and informed opinion on how quickly added DO will quickly return to pre-dosed levels following a dosing, but I would expect slower dosing (think every few minutes) to result in a more consistent and even DO level.
> 
> I think, if you are going to do this, you need to be able to evidence the effects empirically, which means stumping up for a DO meter and taking regular scheduled measurements in multiple positions in the tank, so you can verify that a) your dosing is actually increasing DO levels, and b) your dosing frequency is maintaining consistent DO levels. Your starting point in that case of course would be to establish what your baseline DO profile is for you tanks over several 24 hour periods.
> 
> ...



I was thinking to measure Dissolved Oxygen too, in a different way, https://www.atlas-scientific.com/dissolved-oxygen.html
but as you can see, is way to expensive.

Twinstar/Chihiros doesn't run 24/7, they run every few minutes, thanks to your suggestion and since I'm gonna use a stepper based peristaltic pump, I can use a step based instead of drops, so in other words for example if I need 6 steps for 1 drop then I could do one step every hour.

I know, the chihiros/twinstar do every 5 minutes or so, so the dosing should be every few minutes as you are suggesting, according to the stepper I was looking for, it can dose 140ml at 50 rpm so this stepper can do from 1 to 50 rpm so 1 rpm means 140ml / 50rpm = 2.8ml


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## CharlesL. (27 Jan 2022)

Hi guys,

Any feedback on this experiment?
I'm on the point to proceed same way for 500L aquariums without quite any plant...

Kind regards,
Charles


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## dw1305 (27 Jan 2022)

Hi all,


enb141 said:


> I was thinking to measure Dissolved Oxygen too, in a different way, Dissolved Oxygen Probes & Sensors | Atlas Scientific
> but as you can see, is way to expensive.


Measuring dissolved gases is always difficult. Dissolved oxygen probes work pretty well (they still need calibrating before use) but <"both meter and probes are expensive">.


CharlesL. said:


> I'm on the point to proceed same way for 500L aquariums without quite any plant...


Welcome to UKAPS, if you don't have any / many plants you would be <"best using a trickle filter">.  I would strongly recommend plants as an aid for water quality, <"plant / microbe biofiltration"> is much more efficient than "microbe only" nitrification, partially due to the <"net oxygen production of plants">.

cheers Darrel


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## enb141 (1 Feb 2022)

CharlesL. said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> Any feedback on this experiment?
> I'm on the point to proceed same way for 500L aquariums without quite any plant...
> ...


Yes, I've found that dosing H2O2 directly to the tank wont oxygenate, you need some sort of activator to generate oxygen, at least as far as I found.



dw1305 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Measuring dissolved gases is always difficult. Dissolved oxygen probes work pretty well (they still need calibrating before use) but <"both meter and probes are expensive">.
> 
> ...



Yes, but they are expensive, so they are out of my wallet for now 

And as I mentioned above, as far as I know, H2O2 wont oxygenate unless you apply some sort of activator.


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## dw1305 (1 Feb 2022)

Hi all, 


enb141 said:


> Yes, but they are expensive, so they are out of my wallet for now


I used DIY over-tank ones, <"made of guttering and filled with hydroleca">.

cheers Darrel


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## enb141 (2 Feb 2022)

dw1305 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I used DIY over-tank ones, <"made of guttering and filled with hydroleca">.
> 
> cheers Darrel



Do you have pictures?


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## dw1305 (2 Feb 2022)

Hi all, 


enb141 said:


> Do you have pictures?


Unfortunately not of the lab. ones, but based on the <"DeBryun"> filter idea. Have a look at <"Wanted, Ebb and ...."> and linked threads.

cheers Darrel


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