# Changed to a Sera Co2 Reactor 1000. Gave up on inline diffuser for my planted tank.



## Zak Rafik

Hi everyone,

It has happened again. 
First I noticed my plants shedding its leaves and then a sudden burst of green spot algae on most of the plants.
Having experienced this a few weeks ago, I noted that the size of Co2 bubbles from the inline diffuser via the spraybar were bigger than usual.

It turned out that the inline diffuser was clogged up again. I had installed a brand new diffuser only on 17th Sept and after 1 month and 10 days, its clogged so soon. 

Apart from the tedious process to change to a spare diffuser or clean it, I had to disconnect it from the output hose which can be a time consuming process and a wet one.

My main peeve with this inline diffuser is the gradual drop in Co2 supply to the tank which can can go unnoticed until the plants and algae problems crop up.

So yesterday I got a Sera flore CO2 active reactor 1000 and attached to the out pipe of my spare Eheim filter 2075 which is also hooked up to a UV system. (please see photo of setup below)

The pros for reactor are:
No more micro bubbles (aka 7up look) in the tank and the tank looks awesome when the lights are on.
Much more easier to clean than a diffuser (just use a soft brush or cloth to wipe the surface).
Able to monitor if the Co2 gas is fully dissolved in the reactor before exiting.

One very important thing to note:
Previously when using the inline diffuser, the Co2 would be switched on 2 hours before lights on and after 3 hours the drop checker would be near to lime green.

But now using the same timing for the reactor, I noticed the drop checker to be green or dark green but after changing the Co2 timer to be on 3 hours before, the drop checker is a nice light green.

If I'm not mistaken, the drop checker turning to lime green sooner with a diffuser was maybe due the micro Co2 bubbles floating about and entering the drop checker's opening. Maybe it was not really indicating the true level of Co2 gas dissolved in the water.

But now with Co2 gas 100% dissolved inside the reactor, the drop checker which is placed at the opposite side of the tank is now indicating the true Co2 level in the tank water. ( Please correct me if I'm wrong on this)

I would very appreciate if fellow members who have used a Co2 reactor in your tank share your tips or opinions. Can the reactor be tweaked to perform more  efficiently.

Thank you.


http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b631/Zak_Rafik/Diffuser-sq_zps967efcd1.jpg


https://www.sera.de/en/products/in_...t/sera-flore-co2-active-reactor-500-1000.html

http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums...1-A11C-453F-AC8E-14AEB70D8F5E_zpsauoudhn4.jpg

http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums...7-7A83-4B98-B760-A66B112CCC36_zpsx7hjazue.jpg

http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums...4-B0D2-4C41-8C32-8F45D760FCD4_zpsxosbz58i.jpg

http://vid1295.photobucket.com/albu...4-EE3D-4B35-B106-8C73023B12DB_zpsyq4jjdhz.mp4


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## kirk

Hi, I have the co2 one which is shorter nothing but trouble for me unfortunately. What's it like when the co2 has been off for a while then comes back on? Mines was  noisey and full of air, so had to tilt it daily.


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## Zak Rafik

kirk said:


> Hi, I have the co2 one which is shorter nothing but trouble for me unfortunately. What's it like when the co2 has been off for a while then comes back on? Mines was  noisey and full of air, so had to tilt it daily.



Hi

Sad to hear about your sour experience with your reactor 500. It must be quite frustrating. 

I get the 1000 version knowing that there might be issues with Co2 bubbles exiting before fully dissolving. And Sera recommends the 1000 version for bigger tanks or heavily planted tank, which is what I have. 

There is the slight bubbling noise from the reactor but since mine is inside the cabinet, there's hardly I can hear. 

I also notice that leftover Co2 gas tends to get dissolved quite fast after the gas timer has turned off. Once all the gas has dissolved, the reactor is very quiet.  Maybe the water pressure from the outlet of the canister plays an important role here. I'm sure members here with more experience can shed some light on this issue. 

Cheers


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## kirk

Hi again, sorry it was supposed to say the co2 art one.  I've tried everything recommended. I'm think it all depends on your set up too, but I'm certainly not going to out our perfectly operational 2215 for a non performing turbo reactor. From what I've heard the one you have is far better, maybe down to the bigger/longer surface area allowing a better vortex hence better diffusion. Keep us posted as to how it keeps running. As im either goung to build a co2 reactor or source a secondhand one like yours to try.


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## Bhu

Looks good! How does it fit the 16/22 piping? Will follow this one so please keep us informed with how it goes


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## Bhu

What I mean is it a good fit? Ive been looking at a few other options on ebay etc but they are 12/16 piping so too small for me...


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## drodgers

I just did the opposite after having issues with excessive dumping with a reactor something to do with filter flow?
Another member showed me his DIY reactor with a pump instead of a filter to me that would be much more accurate then a filter for flow rate.
When my diffuser plugs up i may try it this way.
I put a diffuser below my canister intake and since its going out a 5 foot spray my distribution has improved.


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## Zak Rafik

Bhu said:


> What I mean is it a good fit? Ive been looking at a few other options on ebay etc but they are 12/16 piping so too small for me...



Hi
Sorry for the late reply.
The reactor 1000 accepts 16/22 hose. I'm not sure about the 500 or other models.
You can see in the photo below.

The only major inconvenience I had with this reactor was with connecting generic brand Co2 hose to the input. Luckily I researched about the reactor before purchasing. There were many post of people breaking the fragile plastic joint.
Once this part is broken, the reactor is trash.

Even now the hose is not held firmly by the plastic tightening screw as seen in the photo. Although I have tested the hose connection using the soapy water method for gas leak, I'm afraid it may come dislodged any time when shifting the reactor or the attached external canister. I may have to get Sera brand Co2 hose.
Sera CO2 hose 4/6 (∅ internal: 4 mm, ∅ external: 6 mm) part no:08022

I'm in the midst of taking some videos of the reactor functioning before / during and after Co2 supply. I'll post the link here soon.

Cheers

http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b631/Zak_Rafik/reactor-hose_zpscb48ab26.jpg


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## Zak Rafik

drodgers said:


> I just did the opposite after having issues with excessive dumping with a reactor something to do with filter flow?
> Another member showed me his DIY reactor with a pump instead of a filter to me that would be much more accurate then a filter for flow rate.
> When my diffuser plugs up i may try it this way.
> I put a diffuser below my canister intake and since its going out a 5 foot spray my distribution has improved.



Just for info :
Sera Co2 reactor model: 500 (can handle up to 500 bubbles CO2/min or 8 bps) is suitable for tank up to 250L to 600L.
Sera Co2 reactor model: 1000 (can handle up to 1000 bubbles CO2/min or 16 bps) is suitable for tank  capacity above 600L or *heavily planted tanks*.

If you want to fix to a feed pump or water pump :
for Sera 500, the pump should have a minimum capacity of 500 L per hour
for Sera 1000, the pump should have a minimum capacity of 700 L per hour

From my experience during the past few days, I notice that all or 99% of the Co2 gas gets dissolved inside the reactor. Even if I increase the gas output, hardly any gas in the form of micro bubbles manages to escape into the tank.

After using the reactor, I can enjoy my tank with crystal clear water and I also get to see my plants "pearling" beautifully.

The photo below shows the tank (with the 7up look) when I was using a inline Co2 diffuser.

Cheers

http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b631/Zak_Rafik/Co2-bubbels-in-tank_zps946351a1.jpg


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## Bhu

Hi Rak Rafik thanks for the great reply. Ok a few more questions for you then 

So if you get the Sera CO2 hose, how will that attach to a normal bubble counter? Can you not just use some tape on the normal co2 pipe to make it a bit fatter for the screw cap to tighten down on?

Its too late for me now as I couldn't await your answer and bought one lol! So the more help the better for me now  

Also would love to see the tank without the micro bubbles as above but just the plants pearling 

Best wishes and keep us informed how it goes with this one 

Bhu


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## Zak Rafik

Just a note:
Although a reactor can initially be costly , one must bear in mind that one needs to purchase only 1 reactor.
When using an inline Co2 diffuser, one needs to have 2 diffusers. One will be used and the other as a spare when the main diffuser clogs up and is being soaked in vinegar or chlorine to clean.
The cost of 2 diffusers is certainly more than the price of 1 reactor.


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## Zak Rafik

Bhu said:


> Its too late for me now as I couldn't await your answer and bought one lol!



Hi
Oops! sorry I was not able to provide the info when it was most needed.
You mean you bought Sera brand reactor. What model is that?



Bhu said:


> So if you get the Sera CO2 hose, how will that attach to a normal bubble counter?


As I was already having a Co2 setup before, I need not bother with the smaller Co2 hose fitting to the bubble counter. I will just connect the new hose to my metal Co2 check valve which fortunately has a tapered mouth to take in the narrow tube.
I'm going to get the hose tomorrow and will update here asap.



Bhu said:


> Can you not just use some tape on the normal co2 pipe to make it a bit fatter for the screw cap to tighten down on?


Maybe I was not being clear. You see the problem was that my old Co2 hose/pipe was too fat/thick and was preventing the reactor's plastic screw to make contact with the screw thread.

When fixing the hose, I would recommend that you wet both the tips of the Co2 hose and the reactor's Co2 connection with water so that it slips in easily. Don't try with a dry connection or you risk snapping off the tiny and fragile plastic connection tip.
When pushing in the hose, take your time and don't hurry.
Although the Sear reactor is a great product in both function and price, I can't imagine why on earth they would design such a tiny and fragile Co2 connector.



Bhu said:


> Also would love to see the tank without the micro bubbles as above but just the plants pearling


You read my mind. I was thinking the same too.


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## Bhu

Zak Rafik said:


> You mean you bought Sera brand reactor. What model is that?



I got the 1000 like you  I too am fed up[ of the 7Up look! Must be horrible for the fish too!

I just checked with CO2Art and they say that their co2 pipe is the same as the sera one so I should not have any trouble  If I snap the end off then I will create a metal one with a self tapping thread and go into the plastic where the snapped off one is  But hey I hope not to do this


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## Zak Rafik

Bhu said:


> If I snap the end off then I will create a metal one with a self tapping thread and go into the plastic where the snapped off one is


Its better not to break it in the first place.

Cheers


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## Bhu

Zak Rafik said:


> Its better not to break it in the first place.
> 
> Cheers



For sure! Just gave my pipes and UP inline co2 defuser a good clean. Loads of diatom in the pipes! Clearly doesn't need light! All sparkly new now with a new ceramic so hope to get some really good fine mist tomorrow. Looking forward to getting the reactor as well and I'm thinking of somehow going through the UP first then into the Sera reactor. Not sure if there is a need to do this but thought it will make sure all is dissolved.


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## Zak Rafik

Bhu said:


> Looking forward to getting the reactor as well and I'm thinking of somehow going through the UP first then into the Sera reactor.



That's any interesting idea! Maybe an overkill but a very interesting way for a unused inline diffuser to be of some use.

Are you connecting the reactor to a pump or a ext filter?

Cheers


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## Bhu

Form now a canister filter. Do you get any co2 mist into the tank with this reactor? Does it have a ceramic? How does it diffuse/ dissolve the co2?


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## Zak Rafik

Bhu said:


> Form now a canister filter. Do you get any co2 mist into the tank with this reactor? Does it have a ceramic? How does it diffuse/ dissolve the co2?



Hi,
No mist at all. Not even a single one even when I increase the Co2 gas.
To see it working please click the link below. I took this video when I set up the reactor.

http://vid1295.photobucket.com/albu...4-EE3D-4B35-B106-8C73023B12DB_zpsyq4jjdhz.mp4

If the connecting is through your one and only canister filter, you may experience some reduction in water pressure and flow. You can consider using a separate pump (inside or outside the tank) for this purpose.
BTW what is you tank's size?

As for connecting a inline diffuser and then to the reactor, I think it won't work. The inline diffuser's Co2 working pressure inside the unit will be much higher. Whereas the pressure for the reactor would be much less as the gas is not forced through any dense ceramic material.  To start off, keep things simple and observe, and then you can slowly modify the connection if you wish.

Cheers


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## Bhu

I'm now going to have to just use the sera 1000 as last night I replaced the ceramic and now the UP leaks. Just hope it gets here today! I may buy a small external pump for it just don't want any extra vibrations as my Eheim is very silent running. It's going to be used in a 150lt tank. 

Thanks for the link

Bhu


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## Zak Rafik

Hi,
I think for 150lt tank, the 1000 reactor is more than enough. But please pay attention to water pressure.
I have taken a photo of the Sera 500 / 1000 reactor's manual for setup samples. Hope you find it useful.

Also when buying a pump, I personally find Eheim pumps to be of very high quality and quite.

http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b631/Zak_Rafik/setup-fro-reactor_zps9dff9bfc.jpg


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## Zak Rafik

Its very interesting to note that the member here are very quiet on this post.
I would very much appreciate if other fellow members who have had experience with this reactor share their input.


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## Bhu

Zak Rafik said:


> But please pay attention to water pressure.


 
What do you mean by this? My eheim is 2171 which is very quiet rated at 960 l/h what flow rate does the sera 1000 need?


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## Bhu

Zak Rafik said:


> Its very interesting to note that the member here are very quiet on this post.
> I would very much appreciate if other fellow members who have had experience with this reactor share their input.




Well I will be able to soon  amazon still yet to dispatch  saying I will get it Monday to Wednesday though...


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## Stu Worrall

Zak Rafik said:


> Its very interesting to note that the member here are very quiet on this post.
> I would very much appreciate if other fellow members who have had experience with this reactor share their input.


I bought one.  It lasted a few months until I had to clean it when the co2 nipple snapped off with the smallest of ease.  I'd heard on the grapevine that the sera unit might not be made of co2 proof plastic thus the thinnest piece at the co2 junction was prone to becoming brittle. I binned mine in favour of an UP


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## Bhu

stuworrall said:


> I bought one.  It lasted a few months until I had to clean it when the co2 nipple snapped off with the smallest of ease.  I'd heard on the grapevine that the sera unit might not be made of co2 proof plastic thus the thinnest piece at the co2 junction was prone to becoming brittle. I binned mine in favour of an UP



 this gets worse and worse


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## Bhu

If I use a separate external pump to run it do you feel a 600 l/h will be ok?


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## Stu Worrall

Bhu said:


> this gets worse and worse


I would say the workaround would be to attach a small section of co2 tube (4 inches?)  to the nipple then leave it there.  Further down the line put a non return valve in and you can remove the tubing at the non return valve junction for cleaning therefore not risking snapping the nipple.


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## Wisey

I know what you mean Bhu, worse for you as you have paid for both now, but for me, I am trying to decide what to buy for the first time and I just don't know what to do. People say the Sera breaks, people say the UP breaks, what on earth do you buy? The CO2 system is the last equipment I need to get and I just don't know what to spend my money on, so will be watching this thread hoping for more opinions!


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## Bhu

Well my UP broke. I am getting a full refund offered by co2 I didn't ask for it! But that doesn't solve the real issue! I think the idea of using a one way valve is good and that's the way I will go. That way if I break the one way valve no big issue right  I have an Intense inline diffusor arriving tomorrow to tide me over. These are good but cant be cleaned or have the ceramic replaced! CO2Art are creating a more robust (metal maybe) casing for the UP ceramic but they are not ready yet so if you don't mind the 7UP look lol that's what to go for! It worked fine for me but I just had enough of seeing fine mist entering the tank.


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## Zak Rafik

Hi
For Sera 1000, the pump should have a minimum capacity of 700 L per hour. The main reason many people avoid a reactor is due the final reduced flow into the tank. Why don't you try the reactor with the ext canister first?
In my case, I had a spare Eheim 2078 with a flow rate of 1250l/h with only an uv system attached. 

Cheers


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## Bhu

Tnx for that, im thinking the eheim 600 what do you think? 600 l/h next jumps up to 1200 l/h!

I have emailed sera in Germany and await a reply from them


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## Zak Rafik

stuworrall said:


> I'd heard on the grapevine that the sera unit might not be made of co2 proof plastic thus the thinnest piece at the co2 junction was prone to becoming brittle.


Oh really. The grapevine........hummmmm
On a serious note, my opinion : the weakest part for this reactor is the Co2 connection tip. The other would be the O ring seal. It may become brittle over a period of time but not sure of the duration.
Maybe one can use some form of lubricant to extend the life span?
Cheers



stuworrall said:


> I would say the workaround would be to attach a small section of co2 tube (4 inches?) to the nipple then leave it there. Further down the line put a non return valve in and you can remove the tubing at the non return valve junction for cleaning therefore not risking snapping the nipple.



Good tip. Will remember it.Thanks.




Bhu said:


> CO2Art are creating a more robust (metal maybe) casing for the UP ceramic but they are not ready yet


You see the main disadvantage of using an inline diffuser, is that the ceramic tube will get clogged up soon or later. It does not matter who the manufacturer is or what material is used for housing. As my tank is heavily planted ( aka Amazon look), it got clogged up once a month. Usually one would not be able to detect the very slow reduction in number of bubbles due to the clogged pores. Its only when the plants start showing symptoms of Co2 deficiency in the tank, do we realize it.
This scenario can be further aggravated if it happens to a hobbyist who is new to planted tanks, leading to pointing finger at all the wrong reasons (eg. too much fertilization, lights etc...)
I'm sure the more experienced members here can provide more details.




Bhu said:


> I have emailed sera in Germany and await a reply from them


Fantastic job. Can't wait for their reply.

Cheers.


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## Zak Rafik

Bhu said:


> Tnx for that, im thinking the eheim 600 what do you think? 600 l/h next jumps up to 1200 l/h!



Are you referring to the 600 external canister filter?


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## Bhu

Zak Rafik said:


> Are you referring to the 600 external canister filter?


 
No these guys...

http://www.charterhouse-aquatics.co.uk/water-pumps-eheim-universal-c-34_112.html

I do have the 250T at the moment is has just enough flow. I took some of the media out last night and will reduce more slowly over time. But the sera 1000 may be too much for it to push.

We will see!


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## Zak Rafik

Don't rush into the purchase. Use what you have now and then you can decide if you need to upgrade.

Are you think of having the pump inside or outside the tank?


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## Bhu

Zak Rafik said:


> Don't rush into the purchase. Use what you have now and then you can decide if you need to upgrade.


 
For sure I will try my eheim, first then get the pump if need be.



Zak Rafik said:


> Are you think of having the pump inside or outside the tank?


 
definitely outside!


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## Zak Rafik

Please keep me posted in this thread. Maybe I can learn from you too.


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## Bhu

Will do. Still waiting to hear back from Sera. Still humming and haring whether to get the extra pump for more flow. I think I would T the output to my canister filter so I only have to use one spray bar  but still not sure whether the 600 or 1200 l/h pump. Thinking about it I think the 1200 will be serious over kill. So the real question is can the sera 1000 run on a 600 l/h pump? Its only 100l/h away from the minimum and the pump is a dedicated one... This will give me the 10 X magical flow rate as well  I think I've talked myself into it lol! Time to go shopping!


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## Bhu

Its so difficult. The 600 is very small piping 13mm and 11mm the 1200 is 17mm and 13mm !!! What to do!??

Im thinking that I could run one of these two pumps through the sera 1000 to this ...

http://www.aquatix-2u.co.uk/product...nnector.html?gclid=CM2-lLis5sECFSrjwgod_KIAjQ

then one end from my eheim 2171 then the final output from both pumps to the spray bar. Would this work?

Any opinions on this whether it would work or not much appreciated...

Cheers

Bhu


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## Zak Rafik

Bhu said:


> Will do. Still waiting to hear back from Sera. Still humming and haring whether to get the extra pump for more flow. I think I would T the output to my canister filter so I only have to use one spray bar  but still not sure whether the 600 or 1200 l/h pump. Thinking about it I think the 1200 will be serious over kill. So the real question is can the sera 1000 run on a 600 l/h pump? Its only 100l/h away from the minimum and the pump is a dedicated one... This will give me the 10 X magical flow rate as well  I think I've talked myself into it lol! Time to go shopping!



Hi
If the higher pump has the adjustable function to lower the output say from 1200l/h to 800l/h, then by all means get the higher model if cost is no issue. If you get the lower model and you want to increase the output in the feature then you're stuck and you may end up spending more and not to mention the frustration that come with it.

This is the same mistake I made when choosing the Eheim ext canister filter. I wanted to get the higher model for
my 255 ltr tank but then I was at that time, naïve enough to take the LFS as the ultimate truth. After the plants started to take off in the tank, I had some very serious issues with flow inside the tank as the Eheim 600 was struggling. I had to buy another filter, the Eheim 1200 and ended spending more.  So now you know why I have 2 filters for my tank. 

Cheers


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## Bhu

yes I cant get a bigger eheim in my cupboard!  else I would have gone for the 350T

But what do you think of the idea of both feeds going into one?

The only way to control the eheim  1200 Universal will be with a ball tap/ valve.


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## Zak Rafik

Bhu said:


> Its so difficult. The 600 is very small piping 13mm and 11mm the 1200 is 17mm and 13mm !!! What to do!??
> 
> Im thinking that I could run one of these two pumps through the sera 1000 to this ...
> 
> http://www.aquatix-2u.co.uk/product...nnector.html?gclid=CM2-lLis5sECFSrjwgod_KIAjQ
> 
> then one end from my eheim 2171 then the final output from both pumps to the spray bar. Would this work?
> 
> Any opinions on this whether it would work or not much appreciated...
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Bhu



If I were you, I would just keep things simple. I would just have the pump and canister separated and not share the pipe. But then this is my own opinion. Maybe some expert members can shed more light on this issue. 

I know it can be frustrating when choosing the right equipment for the tank but remember to keep calm, give yourself some time. I'm sure everything will work out fine for you. 
Enjoy each and every process in this hobby. After all you're into this hobby to enjoy fish keeping and not to get more stressed. 
Cheers


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## Bhu

Zak Rafik said:


> I would just have the pump and canister separated and not share the pipe


 
The only problem with this is that I then need to have 2 spray bars and its a cramp tight fit already. I only have the left and right rear corners to go into the tank and that's just a triangle of space. Hard to explain its the design and making. Its an aquaoak cube. the tanks are made by sealife or something like that (not the best made tanks either) There are huge trim bracing all around the tank with just the 2 small triangles at the back to fit pipes in and out. I could just squeeze 2 spray bars in if I tried but also this will not look so good at the back as one spray bar...


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## Zak Rafik

I took this photo this morning. As you can see there is new growth during the past 7 days. There is hardly any leaves that are melting away. So I guess the reactor is doing it job.
Cheers

http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b631/Zak_Rafik/good-progress_zps44ddb8ea.jpg


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## Bhu

Looking good!


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## Zak Rafik

Bhu said:


> Looking good!


Hi
Any news from Sear about the reactor?

Here is small clip I made this afternoon. All the bubbles you see are from the plants only.
There is some strong movements among the plants as I have increased the powerhead to move the water since the algae attack.


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## Bhu

No nothing from Sera in Germany. Maybe they are looking for a translator  thanks for the video it's great. Makes sense my tank look like a pond lol that's some flow! I do think I'm going to have to get the extra pump.  My UP bust the other day and today co2Art shipped me an intense inline it is fantastic. So much better than the UP one. I'm thinking it must have leaked from day one as the intense lives up to its name. Very impressed. Saying that I still can't wait to get my sera 1000 which will arrive Monday to Wednesday.


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## Zak Rafik

Hi
My first inline diffuser was an Intense model. It got clogged within 1 month 10 days. As you will be using the new diffuser for the moment, you can take your time to choose the extra pump or the type of setup you prefer. 

I did a small test on the reactor. I noticed that when I lowered the water pressure to the reactor, co2 gas started to buildup quickly at the top and only the bottom blade blade was whisking the gas while the top blade was hardly doing anything. The moment I increased the flow, both blades were working at optimal speed and co2 gas was dissolved quickly with no build up at the top of the reactor. 

If you plan to get a pump, I would suggest that you get one with more pumping capability but one that comes with a adjustable function. You can even try with a valve control if the pump comes with only one speed. 
Cheers


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## foxfish

Plenty of flow alright!


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## Bhu

Yes the intense is a temporary option. Did you know that you can soak the whole intense inline in bleach and clean it that way? It would mean either doing it in the night while your not dosing co2 and use a piece of tube in its place while its cleansing or have a second intense. That's sort of helpful on the sera, would be more helpful if you could give indications of the flow your talking about. lowered=??? l/h highered=??? l/h, was the lowered below 700 l/h? anyhow this is good to know. I can push about 950l/h through it with my canister but then my tank will suffer maybe with less flow. Its really annoying that I cant get a bigger eheim to fit my cabinet under the tank   must confess im liking the aquaoak cube less and less it really wasn't designed with use in mind lol looks good though ha ha ha


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## Zak Rafik

Hi
Because my reactor is connected to my spare Eheim 600, I simply moved the flow control lever to mid position (low flow) and high position (high flow). I can't measure the flow rate as the canister filter has got media inside it. So the the test I did was just an indicative one and not a precise test. At least this give us some idea on the importance of having a high flow for the reactor. Right?


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## Bhu

yes sure. I will look up the eheim 600 flow ratings and guess that half is half the flow maybe? I cant wait til I get my co2 stable and how its best for the plants. Just getting it to be lime green at lights on is a headache and that's coming on 4 hours before lights on! By the end of the day the fish are struggling I can tell and the drop checker is nearly yellow! so how to do it! Really hoping the sera1000 does it for me


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## Bhu

is your eheim, the classic, compact or professional?


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## Zak Rafik

Bhu said:


> Just getting it to be lime green at lights on is a headache and that's coming on 4 hours before lights on


Hi
When I used the inline diffuser, I had the Co2 on 2 before and after 2 ( that means total 4 hours later), the DC would be lime green. But now the Co2 is on 3 hours and after a total 5 hours, the DC is not lime green but light green. Anyway, the the reactor IS working for sure. Just yesterday I did some trimming and now after 28 hours, new shoots ( about 1 to 1 1/2 cm) are growing like crazy. The fish are fine also. Wish I had used a reactor much earlier.




Bhu said:


> is your eheim, the classic, compact or professional


Mine is a Eheim 600 Pro ( the one connected to the reactor). Fantastic filter but sadly not enough flow was created for my densely planted 4 feet 120cm / 255 Lt  tank.

Any news from Sera yet?

Cheers


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## Bhu

No still no news from Sera! Really disappointing hey...my thanks for the info. Is your DC light green on lights on? I hear you need it to be perfect for lights on as that's the crucial and critical time for the plants. Well my reactor may arrive today I hope so, but saying that I'm really happy with the intense inline, much better than the UP one! Will let you know if I hear from Sera and how it goes with the reactor. I have decided to use the 250T for now and see how I get on. I think I do need more flow so just need to find the right pump.


----------



## Bhu

Well well well look what arrived today! Out with the old and in with the new!






The intense is sat there in the front so shows you the size of this thing! Installation was easy as another user posted and in the manual I'm using a one way valve from the sera unit to prevent any damage to its co2 inlet tube. Was worried to begin with as it would only half fill with water until I read turn it upside down der!!!!! So all working well. My only concern now is how many BPS as I don't want to kill my fish. Will be up at em crack of dawn I think to be watching this as the co2 comes on at 6 am. it's just a little less BPS than the intense as I figured I'd get a better dissolve rate. Still no email back from sera! Will let you know how it goes...

On another note I'm definately going to need another pump! It's very visible the drop in flow so unless there is an amazing way to join 2 pumps to one spray bar looks like I'll end up with 2 spray bars one above the other...


----------



## Wisey

I'll be interested to hear how noisy it is as I am setting up my aquarium in the bedroom and I want to minimise the noise from the cabinet. My filter has the heater built in and has an "official" rate of 1850lph for my 120 litre aquarium, so hopefully it would be powerful enough to run through a reactor and still give me decent flow.


----------



## Bhu

Hey Zak Rafik, how far up the co2 tubing does the water travel for you when your co2 shuts off? Im not worried as I have a one way valve in place even before my bubble counter and my BC has a one way valve too. Was just curious how far it will go...


----------



## Bhu

Wisey said:


> I'll be interested to hear how noisy it is as I am setting up my aquarium in the bedroom and I want to minimise the noise from the cabinet. My filter has the heater built in and has an "official" rate of 1850lph for my 120 litre aquarium, so hopefully it would be powerful enough to run through a reactor and still give me decent flow.



With cabinet door closed its silent. With the door open you can hear the needle paddles rushing round with the flow of water but nothing loud. Wow! What filter you got? That's a good flow through rate for the 120. Saying that Ive noticed a serious drop in flow since Ive added it so I will be getting me an Eheim universal 1200  and absolute zero 7UP effect all you see is plants pearling


----------



## Bhu

Just double checked mine and it's definitely totally silent with the cupboard door closed. With it open there is a slight ticking sound from the needle wheel spinning.  Very happy so far!


----------



## Wisey

You say silent, but is there any background noise for it to blend in to? In a silent bedroom at night, I'm wondering if it would be more noticeable? The filter is an EHEIM professional 3e 600T. Not too sure yet, might buy a cheap second eheim spray bar to connect to teh one that comes with it so it covers the whole back of the tank and start with that and then upgrade to glass once I am happy with it.


----------



## Zak Rafik

Wisey said:


> I'll be interested to hear how noisy it is as I am setting up my aquarium in the bedroom


As Bhu mentioned it will be very silent if its installed inside a cabinet. But you know what? Even if you the sound is audible, its kind of those gentle rippling sound, similar to what you hear near small streams, which is kind of cool.




Bhu said:


> how far up the co2 tubing does the water travel for you when your co2 shuts off?


Since my is Co2 tube is black, I cant say much but as you rightly pointed out with the check valve, very little water can make it backwards. BTW, are you using a full plastic valve or a metal valve? I have noticed that with the plastic ones, the Co2 gas flows easily but with the metal ones, I had to increase the pressure to get that same BPS when I used the plastic ones. One main drawback of plastic valves, they will get brittle over the course of time as the plastic material reacts with the Co2 gas. This is the last think we want in our tank, A seriously leaking valve. Just the thought scares me.


----------



## Zak Rafik

Bhu said:


> Well well well look what arrived today! Out with the old and in with the new!


Is that a Pro 3 with a built in heater? Cool 




Bhu said:


> Will be up at em crack of dawn I think to be watching this as the co2 comes *on at 6 am*.


Ahhh, the length we fish keepers would go to to see our fish happy! 




Bhu said:


> I'm definately going to need another pump! It's very visible the drop in flow


When we the last time you cleaned your filter? Maybe the flow could be improved with a cleaner / unclogged filter. Consider removing some filter media if you have too much. For my Eheim 2080, I had 3 layers of filter wool plus the original Eheim pre filter. When I removed just 1 layer of filter wool and the flow improved quite significantly. Just keep a log of your maintenance and you can maintain a healthy flow.

I see the outlet pipe from your filter is making a 90 degrees turn and then into your reactor.  Try to have as less twists and turns as possible in the pipe layout. You can turn the filter to face towards the reactor and use a shorter hose to the reactor. Every bit helps in the flow.
All this I have experienced in my setup journey. 
Cheers.


----------



## Bhu

Wisey said:


> You say silent, but is there any background noise for it to blend in to? In a silent bedroom at night, I'm wondering if it would be more noticeable? The filter is an EHEIM professional 3e 600T. Not too sure yet, might buy a cheap second eheim spray bar to connect to teh one that comes with it so it covers the whole back of the tank and start with that and then upgrade to glass once I am happy with it.



As Zak Rafik says you won't hear it especially over an eheim 600. They really are very quiet.



Zak Rafik said:


> Since my is Co2 tube is black, I cant say much but as you rightly pointed out with the check valve, very little water can make it backwards. BTW, are you using a full plastic valve or a metal valve? I have noticed that with the plastic ones, the Co2 gas flows easily but with the metal ones, I had to increase the pressure to get that same BPS when I used the plastic ones. One main drawback of plastic valves, they will get brittle over the course of time as the plastic material reacts with the Co2 gas. This is the last think we want in our tank, A seriously leaking valve. Just the thought scares me.



I use these http://www.co2art.co.uk/collections...-with-build-in-check-valve-and-magnify-holder

And

http://www.co2art.co.uk/collections...cts/aquarium-glass-co2-check-valve-non-return

Very good bits of kit no worries there!

Yes it's a pro 3 250T just wish it was the same one wisely has the 600, then I wouldnt need an extra pump for my sera 1000. I clean the filters really regular. The filter was done 3 days ago and I took a lot of media out as well. Right now my pipes are spotless as well 

It's a real challenge with the reactor as the inlet/ outlet are 90 degrees and I don't have much room in there. There are no twists or kinks in the pipes just gentle bends which will have to do for now. Also I like it where it is so I can see it clearly and watch it work and check for the dreaded dare I say it leaks! (So far so good) Once I get the extra pump I will have tonnes of flow  I've decided on the compact + 2000 which can be turned down to 800 l/h which is perfect 

Still no news from sera!


----------



## ltsai

Where did you get the Sera reactor from?


----------



## Bhu

ltsai said:


> Where did you get the Sera reactor from?



Good old Amazon.co.uk

Took 5 days but well worth the wait. Yes no more 7 uP look  I'm up early making sure I don't kill my fish and doing a new pH profile...  so far so good


----------



## ltsai

Rafik,  what about yours? Did you buy it from our local LFS?


----------



## Zak Rafik

ltsai said:


> Rafik, what about yours? Did you buy it from our local LFS?


Hi Itsai,
I get mine from our Green Chapter. I have seen this model only at that place.



Bhu said:


> Very good bits of kit no worries there!


Those are some cool looking check valves. Looks much similar to ADA's.



Bhu said:


> looks like I'll end up with 2 spray bars one above the other...


I was in the same dilemma as you when I wanted to setup the two filters. Then I came up with this idea ( OK! I'll be honest, I copied from someone )
You can eliminate having two spray bars!
What do you think?
Cheers
http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b631/Zak_Rafik/spray-bars_zpsda2ea265.jpg


----------



## ltsai

Zak Rafik said:


> Hi Itsai,
> I get mine from our Green Chapter. I have seen this model only at that place.


Must be quite expensive... How much was it?


----------



## Zak Rafik

ltsai said:


> Must be quite expensive... How much was it?


I think for a product that works and give less headache is worth the price. Costs me SG$60, money well spent. I think.


----------



## Wisey

Bhu said:


> Yes it's a pro 3 250T just wish it was the same one wisely has the 600, then I wouldnt need an extra pump for my sera 1000. I clean the filters really regular. The filter was done 3 days ago and I took a lot of media out as well. Right now my pipes are spotless as well


 
The problem with the 600 is I had to rent a second home to fit it in to, which results in a really long pipe length


----------



## Bhu

Wisey said:


> The problem with the 600 is I had to rent a second home to fit it in to, which results in a really long pipe length


Stop it! Your giving me ideas


----------



## Bhu

Zak Rafik said:


> I was in the same dilemma as you when I wanted to setup the two filters. Then I came up with this idea ( OK! I'll be honest, I copied from someone )
> You can eliminate having two spray bars!
> What do you think?
> Cheers



Well if it works great, but you still have 2 inlet flows which is what I was trying to avoid. I just want one inlet flow for even circulation. With just the crook you don't get an even spread like the spray bar and it will clash with what comes from the spray bar too. I hope you understand what im trying to explain. I fear Wisey may have given me ideas. By a bigger canister and house it further away  I have the pipe just not sure how much flow I will loose with where id need to keep it, so would need the 1200! Gulp!


----------



## Wisey

I'm glad I left the CO2 system to be one of the last things I buy as you guys have pretty much convinced me to try the reactor instead of the inline atomizers. I may buy a couple more Eheim single taps to make things easier to remove for cleaning etc. My cabinet is gonna be pretty full with all this stuff!


----------



## Bhu

Wisey said:


> I may buy a couple more Eheim single taps to make things easier to remove for cleaning etc.



Always a very good idea!


----------



## Bhu

so im starting to get concerned now. pH profile from 6.00 am to 10.00 am every half an hour no change constant at 6.4. DC is also a dark green. lights went on at 9.00 and co2 was running for 3 hours before. Ive just painted some ecover washing up liquid around the new co2 joints to see if there is a leak but so far nothing showing. Other wise I will have to turn the co2 up and its already a bit higher than when I used my inline diffuser! Mmmm what's happening? The co2 is definitely dissolving as the small air bubble at the top from new co2 entering the reactor is not getting bigger. Could it be that as its dissolved already that the plants are using it as fast as it goes in and so the DC doesn't register it? We will see by later as with the inline by 3.00 pm the fish are noticing it and breathing a bit heavier and the DC is light green with tinges of yellow its turned off at 4.00 pm. if its due to plants using it immediately which is fantastic then im going to have to extend the co2 exposure til lights off at 6.00 pm or at least given them an extra hour til 5.00 pm and observe...

Im thinking its due to plants using it up straight away which in a day or 2 will show with extensive growth so that will confirm it. If this is the case should I slowly up the co2 until the DC turns light green? I hope I can get this working without killing my fish lol  But already so happy as now there is no 7UP effect in the tank.  So any bubbles will have to be from pearling plants.

Here's a question for you Zak Rafik, when your co2 is turned off how long does it take the reactor to disovle what's left at the top?


----------



## Wisey

Watching with interest! Hope this goes ok for you!


----------



## Zak Rafik

Bhu said:


> o im starting to get concerned now. pH profile from 6.00 am to 10.00 am every half an hour no change constant at 6.4.


Hi
Why don't you post your pH profile. I'm sure the experts here ( this forum) will guide you better.



Bhu said:


> lights went on at 9.00 and co2 was running for 3 hours before.


Yup. Same as mine.



Bhu said:


> Other wise I will have to turn the co2 up and its already a bit higher than when I used my inline diffuser!


Don't be surprise with what you're going to discover. I have my Co2 BPS like crazy. (Clive aka. ceg4048, once told me that for my 4 feet tank, a 5 liter Co2 cyclinder can easily be used up within 1 month, I was skeptical about that but now I think he's spot on with that one)



Bhu said:


> im going to have to extend the co2 exposure til lights off at 6.00 pm or at least given them an extra hour til 5.00 pm and observe...


Do one change at a time. If not you may not be able to trouble shoot with precision.



Bhu said:


> So any bubbles will have to be from pearling plants.


If you have your fertz right and nice flow, this reactor will do magic in your tank.
For example, today I observed that the plants were pearling even with the light at 50%. There is the first time I have witnessed this.
With the inline diffuser method, the plants would stop pearling almost immediately when the light are dimmed to 50%.



Bhu said:


> when your co2 is turned off how long does it take the reactor to disovle what's left at the top?


Exactly what I observed today. My Co2 is switched off at 3pm and lights at 4.15pm
By 4.15pm, there would be no gas at all inside the reactor. I presume this is due to the heavy flow from the canister as the gas gets whisked briskly.

If I have the time I'll post a video on this.

Cheers.


----------



## Zak Rafik

Wisey said:


> My cabinet is gonna be pretty full with all this stuff!


The more the merrier. 
Nowadays, I have to sneak in my new purchases before my other half finds out!


----------



## Bhu

Ok so I went out today to get a SAE and came back with one but also an eheim compact + 2000 wow! Now I am happy with my flow  not so happy with the piping as yet but it will do for now... I have took your suggestion Zak Rafik and made my eheim return just the crook on the right as here...




 

The sera 1000 runs through the spray bar with the eheim compact + 2000 and that's a great flow  Here are a couple of videos showing the flow and how quiet they are. In the first video the noise is from my low tech tank some 3 metres away. It has an air bubble filter that I made.



Sorry about the rough end and quality its my iPad so not so great. The blue discus was hopefully going for some granule food and not a baby shrimp lol and don't they help to keep the carpet plants nice and compact 

This video I have turned the noisy low tech off so you cen hear just how quiet a set up this is until the cabinet door is opened...



Again sorry about the poor quality video 

So Zak Rafik, from the second video do you feel that there is enough bps going on there? Great flow hey  Thanks for the crook advice works ok I think


----------



## Wisey

So what is happening with your PH profile and your drop checker now, Bhu?

I'll have to watch the videos when I get home from work.


----------



## Bhu

It's been at 6.4 all day checked it every 30 mins. So at least it's constant! The DC still dark green though... How do you feel about the noise level? sorry just saw the end of your post. Ok let me know later. 

The co2 goes off at 4pm so will check the pH after that for a few hours too...


----------



## Bhu

Checked again at 7pm still 6.4


----------



## mlongpre

So you ended up using two intakes out outputs? One for the canister filter and one for the eheim compact? I'm trying to also figure out the best way to use the two pump option, one having co2 and the other without. I guess ideally you would run two spray bars each half length so together they make up the whole length. Then run co2 to both. But that might only work well if the pumps output speeds are similar or can be matched up somehow. And you have to buy two co2 reactors or diffusers. Hmm. 

Might go with the two full length spray bar option. One above the other to keep flow moving well since I don't have another co2 diffuser.


----------



## Wisey

Sounds pretty quiet Bhu, fingers crossed it won't keep me awake 

So a bit worrying that you did not get the PH drop right? I don't know enough about that side of things yet, but does that not indicate a problem with the CO2 level in your tank?


----------



## Bhu

Wisey said:


> Sounds pretty quiet Bhu, fingers crossed it won't keep me awake
> 
> So a bit worrying that you did not get the PH drop right? I don't know enough about that side of things yet, but does that not indicate a problem with the CO2 level in your tank?


Well as its already dissolved, and the flow is x10+ I think it might be that the plants can use it quicker than the DC can register it. I will slowly up the BC over the next few days and see what I get. I don't want to kill my fish off  The plants seem very happy today, pearling gently, no sign of melt from the crypts and that's at 80% light for 5 hours. The only algae that's become a problem is the BBA due to all the fluctuations in the co2 level while I've been sorting it out. I added a SAE today so hopefully by the end of the week it will have a big belly  Will take a reading before bed so will be many hours after lights out and co2 off so hopefully the pH will have risen slightly. I will need to be up at 5 in the morning to get a reading just before the co2 comes on. That's the one that will really let me know whats what.

Over all im not worried as the constant pH throughout the day would imply that the co2 is constant. Will keep you posted ;~)


----------



## Wisey

Cool, look forward to another update 

I wanted an SAE for my aquarium, but I'm guessing he might get a bit big for a 60x45x45 right?


----------



## Bhu

Well talking to my LFS they said they would take them back when really big. So buy them small grow them up and give them back. Its only a £2 fish after all. Once they are large they get lazy eating BBA anyhow! So yes you could get a small one... But you will need a lid as they are jumpers! Im wishing id got 3 of them now 

So just took another reading guess what... still pH 6.4 but hovering to 6.5 So a slight change, very slight... ha ha ha might just have to bite the bullet and get up at 5am test the water and go back to bed lol


----------



## Wisey

I'm planning on a perspex cover, already got the ADA clips to hold it. I'll have a word with my LFS and see if they will do similar.

As for 5 am, I will make sure I set my phone to "Do Not Disturb" in case I get a Tapatalk notification


----------



## Bhu

mlongpre said:


> Might go with the two full length spray bar option. One above the other to keep flow moving well since I don't have another co2 diffuser.


 
Yes I think that's the best approach. Mine is temporary using the crook in one corner until I can be bothered to make a clear acrylic bend to the left crook to make my right one


----------



## Bhu

Wisey said:


> As for 5 am, I will make sure I set my phone to "Do Not Disturb" in case I get a Tapatalk notification


 
Ha  ha ha ha very wise...


----------



## Zak Rafik

Hi Nice setup. Loved your tank.


Bhu said:


> still pH 6.4 but hovering to 6.5 So a slight change, very slight


Are you using a hobby grade pH test kit? 
When I tried to do a ph profile for my tank, my API test kit couldn't register ph values below 6. I got an electronic ph reader, and the vales taken were more accurate.



Bhu said:


> Its only a £2 fish after all. Once they are large they get lazy eating BBA anyhow! So yes you could get a small one.


I had 8 SAEs in my tank and were working efficiently but once the Rummynose tetras were in the tank, they simply forgot about the algae. They would simply hang around with the Rummys and out compete for the flakes. In the end I had to give them away to a LFS.


----------



## Bhu

Hi Zak Rafik

I'm using an electronic pH stick, which I calicbrated before use to buffer 7 and it was spot on. Yes I've left these chemical test kits behind now. I was so dissapointed to hear that they are not accurate. I used to love doing the tests. I used to do triathlons and chemical tests in chemistry  

Well my SAE better do his job! With all the messing about with the co2 I have BBA all over the place on the wood and a bit on plants too now!


----------



## Zak Rafik

Bhu said:


> With all the messing about with the co2 I have BBA all over the place on the wood and a bit on plants too now


Same here. Now I think it has stopped progressing.


----------



## Bhu

No sign of my tiny SAE this morning, thinking I should have got 3 lol...


----------



## Wisey

Did you get up at 5 am or did the duvet win?


----------



## Bhu

yup! The duvet won! Managed a 6.30 am which was slightly different from yesterday as it was pH 6.3. All the plants look great even the anubias is loosing its GSA  crypts looking good too! Today will be the day to see the real pearling I hope. Can't find the new little SAE wish I'd got 3 for sure now!


----------



## Bhu

My LFS has a SH Eheim pro 3 1200xl T for sale at £295!!! I was so tempted! Could put it in the other corner of the room and run the pipes to the tank lol only need one pump then  have you noise tested your 600 yet?


----------



## Zak Rafik

Bhu said:


> Can't find the new little SAE


Give him/her some slack. Starting to live in a beautiful tank such as yours may have overwhelmed him/her.



Bhu said:


> All the plants look great even the anubias is loosing its GSA  crypts looking good too!


Very glad to hear it.



Bhu said:


> Today will be the day to see the real pearling I hope


Enjoy the show.


----------



## Wisey

Bhu said:


> My LFS has a SH Eheim pro 3 1200xl T for sale at £295!!! I was so tempted! Could put it in the other corner of the room and run the pipes to the tank lol only need one pump then  have you noise tested your 600 yet?


 
Not yet, if you check my journal you will see that charterhouse still have not fully resolved the issue with the damaged filter, 3 weeks on now!


----------



## Wisey

So, I have to admit that I am a bit confuesd how I am going to know how much CO2 to add to my tank if I go with the reactor as if the ph drop does not occur and I don't get a change on the drop checker, how on earth will I have any idea how to set the level of CO2? It's not like I can compare with what I had before as you can as mine is a new set-up.


----------



## Bhu

Turned co2 up very slightly. Some pearling is evident but not enough


----------



## Bhu

Hey Zak Rafik, I turned up the co2 a bit today... Fish seem fine and got a nice colour on the DC but it looks way high on the BC what do you think? Are my plants just greedy  ?



Anyhow see what you think...

Cheers

Bhu


----------



## Wisey

I'm no expert on this stuff, but that looks to be a LOT of bubbles per second, way more than most people seem to talk about using. I know comparing bubble rates does not work as it all depends on the tank and the unique conditions, but still, that looks like a lot! Are you sure you are not loosing some somewhere?


----------



## Bhu

Yes I checked all the co2 connections they are good! You can see the co2 going I to the reactor. That the beauty of them. There it either stays as a gas at the top or dissolves it's only way out. This reactor is capable of up to 1000 bubbles per minute so I think I'm under that still  your right though it does look a lot but the tank is densly planted and 150ltr of water so it must be going somewhere! Fish are fine plants are growing and healthy. Just need to get the co2 constant to stop the dreaded BBA!

A good colour on the DC though hey?


----------



## Bhu

This is what it feeds, sorry not the best picture quality I have a lot to learn about photography lol...


----------



## Bhu

you could play spot the SAE for hours in there lol especially as he's only about 3cm


----------



## foxfish

Bhu said:


> Turned co2 up very slightly. Some pearling is evident but not enough


Perhaps you should read up about pearling.


----------



## Bhu

foxfish said:


> Perhaps you should read up about pearling.


Perhaps you should be more informative and less aloof?


----------



## foxfish

Would you pay any attention to me if I was?
I am just concerned that you are going to gas your fish in an attempt to see pearling so I am suggesting that you please try to read up about pearling, you may find out it is not necessarily the right goal to aim for ... ask Clive!


----------



## Bhu

Why would I not pay attention? I'm here to learn as many are. The DC is no where near the yellow and I'm here all day watching the fish for any signs of distress, discomfort or asphyxia due to excessive co2.

I just thought that pearling is a healthy sign of plants as gluttony in my happy fish is a sign of their health.

I have read the links that Clive posted on plants and how they work and co2 is very important. They are in video form so very good at showing you the process as well as explaining.


----------



## foxfish

I like to see my plants pearling but the amount of visible pearling can be effected by lots of situations.
I think temperature can effect the solubility of oxegeon so maybe in a discus tank the effect would be different than a cory tank set at 20c ? Then the amount of flow has an effect, very high flow will disperse the bubbles so they are not so visible.
One thing is for sure and that is pearling is not always a good sigh as algea infected plants can still pearl and fast healthy growth can definitely be achieved without visible pearling.
http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/question-about-pearling.33706/


----------



## Bhu

Thanks for the link. I think your right. The higher temps I'm at 28-29 defianately makes it harder for co2 and O2 to be dissolved. Also I do have a good fast flow now and the bubbles I see coming off zoom away! When the co2 is over and I turn the flow off I do see many fine trails of bubbles so that's good. Will go and have a read of the link that you gave and learn some more...


----------



## Crossocheilus

Hey Bhu, I've been watching this thread and I'm beginning to think that a reactor would be preferable as the 7UP-look sounds terrible. My tank is in my bedroom so I am worried about noise, the reactor seem pretty noisy, obviously quieter with cabinet closed but still loud, what do you think? 

I think that pearling, although attractive, is not really a great way to gauge plant health. 

Am I correct in thinking that you have had to increase bubble rate in order to get enough co2 in when using the reactor? This is counter intuitive. However I suppose it could be due to the reactor being slow to dissolve co2 and so plants use it up as it goes in, does that sounds right?


----------



## Bhu

Hi Crossocheilus, there is some noise but if you can add it to your existing external canister then you really won't notice it. I am noticing the extra eheim pump now not because of the pump but I think it's to do with harmonics. A definite hum is starting to appear in the house lol. Eheim pro 250t and now then compact 2000+ then 3 metres away a tetra air pump and the clear seal 30 plus upstairs another air pump and 2 more small pumps in nano tanks. All combine somehow to make a hum that is louder in some places more than others. But I can still sleep  

Well I'm also thinking that as the co2 enters the tank already dissolved its immediately accessible to the plants and utilised for photosynthesis. Where as with the UP and Intense first there are lots n lots of micro bubbles wishing around then and that need to disovle before the plants can get their hands on it. I will keep a very close eye on this set up the next few days and monitor the plant growth. If it's mad then clearly it's working! After 2 days so far so good. No dead fish and took til today to get tne DC light green. So progress from now on


----------



## Crossocheilus

I suppose the only way to really know about noise would be to try it. As for effectiveness I'll stay tuned and see what your findings are.

Thanks


----------



## Bhu

Well first time ever, at lights on lime, light green DC  so happy inthink im going to celebrate  ha ha  this reactor works well!


----------



## Wisey

Woohooo, champagne time! The question is though, just how much CO2 you are putting in? Seemed like a really high bubble rate yesterday, is that sustainable long term, how long is your canister going to last?


----------



## Bhu

Well its a 2 kg co2 tank, all I can imagine is that the plants clearly need it and use it! Im due a refill soon next few days so can do an accurate tank usage then. Its been on 2 months at the moment but that cant be used as my co2 usage has been up and down plus leaks (hence the BBA) so im thinking at least 2 months maybe more we shall see.

But yes the fizz is in the champagne only now not in the tank  hahaha


----------



## Carl Whitbread

Well I have been watching this thread with great interest and there has been some amazing videos and great contributions. I too have installed an UP inline diffuser (in August 14) and as Bhu has mentioned about it leaking - well mine also leaked. I contacted CO2 art (excellent service) and they supplied me with new top and base fittings and all has been well so far, but I also agree with Zak Rafik that my UP diffuser does require cleaning every month if not sooner. I have in the past used bogwood in my tank but have removed it as it appears to be filling up my filter with brown strands clearly the bogwood is breadking down and there are lots of bogwood remants still in the tank. I use to have an Eheim 2271 filter on my Juwel vision 180 but found that it was not powerful enough for my tank. So I sold it and bought a JBL CristalProfi e1501 greenline as it is designed for 160 - 600 litre tanks. Th more filtration the better .... Well that is what I thought until I added the UP and sure enough my flow has gone down. I have an Eheim spray bar all along the back of the tank (as recommended by Clive aka Ceg0408).  I did have the 7up effect at first install of the JBL filter but now it appears that my 7UP has gone flat as I no longer see anything. Also I have BBA and notice some brown spot algae on the front of the tank, so I know that things are not good. Worst of all my platys have eaten sone of the plants so my tank looks like it has had a nuclear fallout. Please don't ask to see a video.. 

I am looking at getting the Sera CO2 as a result of reading this thread and hoping it may solve my problems. I would have thought my filter should be able to manage it without an additional pump but my spray bar at the moment is just trickling, but I also have curly filter pipes (too much excess pipe) and not tight straight lengths of pipe so this is not helping.I also own an Eheim Univeral 1048 pump to pump my RO water back into my tank and that is only a 600l p/h pump so I may be able to use this if necessary.. It just means going back to lifting 25 litre water drums again - not adviseablt at my age.

Bhu - Why did you go for the compact 2000 and not the 1000? Also why do you have your DC up so high in the tank and not lower down? Aqau essentials recommend the DC is placed 2 -3 inches from the substrate as that is where the CO is lowest

My PH is 7.48 (as measured by my seneye) and my tap water has a KH of 8 but after it has been through the RO unit the KH is 4.0 My drop checker is constantly blue unless I dilute my brmo blue to 50% blue and 50% RO water then that is the only time that I get a dark green reading.

Worse of all I agree that my BBA is caused through unstable CO2. It must be as I fully clean my filter and replace 50 litres of water every week. I came across the following article last night about leaving the CO2 on 24 \ 7 to maintain stable CO2. What are the thoughts of fellow forum members on this? See link below

http://www.fishchannel.com/freshwater-aquariums/planted-tank/compressed-gas-system.aspx 

All help \ comments are appreciated - thanks everyone


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## Carl Whitbread

Forgot to mention... JBL CristalProfi e1501 greenline has a 1400L output


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## Carl Whitbread

My CO2 has switched on and my UP still leaks so that will be getting removed and I will contact CO2Art


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## Bhu

Carl Whitbread said:


> Bhu - Why did you go for the compact 2000 and not the 1000? Also why do you have your DC up so high in the tank and not lower down? Aqau essentials recommend the DC is placed 2 -3 inches from the substrate as that is where the CO is lowest


 
Hi Carl I went with the compact + not just the compact. The compact is not an external pump and has to be submerged, I want as little in the tank as possible where kit goes. I went for the bigger pump as things tend to slow down in time at the moment I have it on the lowest setting 1000 l/h but in time when the spindle wears and it gets gunged up I can easily turn it up and keep the flow. Also flow is king to the point that its not really a problem where I put my DC I'm fairly confident now that Id get very similar results no matter where I put it. There is a good flow without it being too violent and disturbing the substrate or ripping plants up. With good flow the co2 enriched water will flow everywhere needed. Which sera will you go for? I chose the 1000 which requires a minimum flow through rate of 700 l/h my eheim wasn't up to it the compact + 2000 is and gives me a little extra if need be at a later date. The 500 requires less flow through rate I cant remember exactly but I think its not much less about 600l/h and for the extra capacity I chose the 1000. Yes my tank is riddled with BBA due to me having a hard time getting my co2 balanced. Now it is balanced I hope to eradicate it by hand if need be but I have an ally now my SAE


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## Carl Whitbread

Hi Bhu, Thank you for your reply. I was getting impatient for a reply and nearly just ordered a Sera. Does that statement sound familiar.. 

So you found your SAE after all.   I now understand why you went for the compact +. I see you did put that in your original post, I just missed it sorry mate. After reading about your experience and learning from others then I will go for the Sera 1000 model for my 180 litre tank. My filter has a 1400l/h output and since I have just trimmed up some of the excess cable I once again have a steady flow. I only want the one spray bar so I reckon my filter is up to the job - we will see. In the past  used to use a Tunze for extra circulation with my Eheim but no matter where I positioned it, the tunze just blew the food everywhere, it disturbed the substrate and upset most of the fish except the clown loaches, and uprooted the plants. And that was the smallest Tunze so they are very powerful and I think that perhaps they are more designed for marine. My fish are less fed up since I removed it. My next task it to order the Sera and I have just emailed CO2Art about the UP Diffuser. I will wait to see what they say and will keep you posted.

I use the 4dkh prepared solution from AquaEssentials for my DC and I use dry salts Macro and micro for my ferts. But my DC stays constantly blue so I dilute it. I dont really rate the soltuion from AE. What solution do you use for your DC?

Well done on getting your CO2 balanced. There are two ways to get rid of the BBA. 1 is to trim off the BBA leaf but then your tank will look bare for a while, OR 2. Is to get some hydrogen peroxide 3% (must be 3%). Turn off your flter and your compact so only your heater is left on. Then use a syringe and to draw up a syringe full of hydrogen peroxide and then squirt it on the leaf infected with BBA. A syringe full should do quite a few leafs. You will then notice the BBA reacting with the hydrogen solution and the leaf will start to release oxygen which in turn will start to kill the BBA. Continue to leave all filters off for 20 minutes then turn back on. Within a few days you should see the BBA turn orange or a rusty colour and then it shoud die off. 

I did this and it sure treated the BBA but as my CO2 is not balanced (yet) then it will only return. I bought my hydrogen peroxide from Manor Phamacy (I am in the UK) and it cost about £1.20 for a 200 ml bottle so I bought 6 bottles - Always good to have some in. BUT I am not sure of it will be ok to use it with your SAE (which I thought was a Stamped Addressed Envelope) d'oh !!


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## Carl Whitbread

You could also do a blackout for a few days .. just an idea


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## Carl Whitbread

Ok Bhu, you have convinced me so I have just ordered my Sera 1000 and paid £35 including p&p. I hope you did not spend less than that for yours... All you need to do now is to tell me how I should break the news to my other half...


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## Bhu

Hi Carl

Nope that's the price  but it's a good bit of kit so you won't regret it! Co2Art are really good and they will take the UP back and refund you. Yes I have heard of using h2o2 before but I have other fish too and a lot of shrimps so have to be careful. Some people get away with it others have killed their livestock off! I'm not sure if a black out will kill BBA. Also for the DC I use the co2 Art pre mixed solution which works really well and a lot less hassle. Might cost a bit more but I think it's worth it. 

Good luck and hope you get it sorted ok. Just remember once the reactor is on and the pump is turned on you will need to turn the reactor upside down to release all the air in it  that bit had me worried for a while as I thought something was wrong that the air was trapped inside  

Let us know how you get on.

Cheers

Bhu


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## Carl Whitbread

By popular demand here is a picture of my tank as it stands at the moment (note not many plants, decor etc)

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag240/Tropical66/Tank1_zps0c6306f5.jpg


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## Carl Whitbread

here are my two drop checkers. Noitce one green. That is diluted dkh

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag240/Tropical66/Tank4_zps3ad9a42c.jpg


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## Carl Whitbread

my 7up Effect - does ruin the overall view of the tank and I do not get any pearling

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag240/Tropical66/Tank2_zpsaa87751e.jpg


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## Carl Whitbread

As my Tank is a bow fronted tank I have a bar in the middle to strengthen the tank. This is ok except makes life a little diffcult when cleaning it or even putting a spray bar in. This is my flow with my JBL filter after I have trimmed the excess of the pipes and it still has the UP inline installed. 

Bhu - What are your thoughts on the output?

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag240/Tropical66/Tank5_zps496931d9.jpg


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## Carl Whitbread

If you look at the top of the filter in the picture you will see what looks like a ? Well this is fish poo but if you look just uner it then you will see a red rust sort of colour. This is dead BBA after being treated with hydrogen peroxide

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag240/Tropical66/Tank6_zpsa8965eec.jpg


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## Carl Whitbread

But there is no point in treating algae if you have not solved the problem. I treated the algae and as my CO2 is still imbalanced back comes the BBA. SO if you don't identify and treat the root cause then you waste your time as it will always come back

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag240/Tropical66/Tank7_zps6b24e358.jpg


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## Carl Whitbread

Bhu said:


> Just remember once the reactor is on and the pump is turned on you will need to turn the reactor upside down to release all the air in it  that bit had me worried for a while as I thought something was wrong that the air was trapped inside



Hi Bhu, Without me sounding thick (not hard ) , how do I turn the reactor upside down once it is installed and has the water in it and especially if my tubing is tight as can be to max the flow?

Is there a knack to it?

Thanks for your support and help


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## Wisey

Carl Whitbread said:


> What are your thoughts on the output?



The theory as I understand it is the jets from your spraybar should be hitting the front glass. That forces the flow down the front of the tank and then it hits the substrate, you get CO2 over your carpet plants and then it flows towards the back and you get a circular flow as it goes back up. Your flow looks far too low to be getting the desired effect.


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## Carl Whitbread

Thanks Wisey - I agree with you as I discussed this with Clive (ceg4048) sometime ago, hence why I upgraded my filter. But I would have thought for a 1400l p/h filter the water would be bouncing over the glass. I will pop to my LFS tomorrow and get some new tubing and install it and see if the flow is more powerful after I remove the old tubing with the inline diffuser in. I have also ordered a JBL pipe cleaner so I will clean all my pipes and see what difference that will make. If not then I wonder where I will go from there.......????? I will wait until I get my pipe cleaner before I reply if that's ok


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## Wisey

Making sure everything is clean will help. How much media do you have in the filter as that will have a huge impact on flow?


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## mlongpre

Carl Whitbread said:


> As my Tank is a bow fronted tank I have a bar in the middle to strengthen the tank. This is ok except makes life a little diffcult when cleaning it or even putting a spray bar in. This is my flow with my JBL filter after I have trimmed the excess of the pipes and it still has the UP inline installed.
> 
> Bhu - What are your thoughts on the output?
> 
> http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag240/Tropical66/Tank5_zps496931d9.jpg



It appears you are running that spray bar above the waterline. I believe it should be placed just under the waterline so it pushes the co2 directly into the tank water and to minimize the off gassing occurring. As mentioned already, the flow should be enough that it hits the front glass, changes direction together and flows down towards the substrate. Then changes direction again and moves across substrate to back wall and eventually up the back wall to the spray bar position. Can you see your co2 bubbles making it all the way around in a circular flow? If not then more flow is needed.


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## Carl Whitbread

Wisey said:


> How much media do you have in the filter as that will have a huge impact on flow?



I have 4 baskets. Basket 1 (the top basket) has a centre fine and underneath a course filter, rhe baskets two and three are both fine sponges (there are two sponges per basket) and then basket 4 contains the media balls. I did think about remove either basket 2 or 3 but was being cautious so decided not too.

What are your thoughts?


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## Carl Whitbread

Bhu said:


> Just remember once the reactor is on and the pump is turned on you will need to turn the reactor upside down to release all the air in it  that bit had me worried for a while as I thought something was wrong that the air was trapped inside



Bhu, just a thought here. do you now have two spray bars? It would be good to see the top of your tank so I can see what you have done. I want to avoid two spray bars so not sure how to route it 

Thanks again,


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## Carl Whitbread

mlongpre said:


> It appears you are running that spray bar above the waterline. I believe it should be placed just under the waterline so it pushes the co2 directly into the tank water and to minimize the off gassing occurring. As mentioned already, the flow should be enough that it hits the front glass, changes direction together and flows down towards the substrate. Then changes direction again and moves across substrate to back wall and eventually up the back wall to the spray bar position. Can you see your co2 bubbles making it all the way around in a circular flow? If not then more flow is needed.



Thank you for your comment. I have aquarium sealant on the pads to keep them in pace for teh spray bar so I will move them down once I have increased the flow. As for the CO2 bubbles well at the moment the CO2 is off as my UP Diffuser is leaking.. I will provide an update on this sometime soon I hope as I am just waiting for a reply from CO2Art and I don't expect one over the weekend


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## Carl Whitbread

Carl Whitbread said:


> I have 4 baskets. Basket 1 (the top basket) has a centre fine and underneath a course filter, rhe baskets two and three are both fine sponges (there are two sponges per basket) and then basket 4 contains the media balls. I did think about remove either basket 2 or 3 but was being cautious so decided not too.



Just removed baskets 2 and 3 and there is no difference in output. Tomorrow I will get a new piece of tube and fit it and will see if that makes a difference as it will not have the UP Inline diffuser installed


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## Carl Whitbread

Bhu said:


> I went with the compact + not just the compact.



Just looked at this pump and the read up says that the tube size is 19/27mm... How strange i sthat? I have 16\22mm as I am sure you have so how did you get round this mate?


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## Bhu

Carl Whitbread said:


> As my Tank is a bow fronted tank I have a bar in the middle to strengthen the tank. This is ok except makes life a little diffcult when cleaning it or even putting a spray bar in. This is my flow with my JBL filter after I have trimmed the excess of the pipes and it still has the UP inline installed.
> 
> Bhu - What are your thoughts on the output?
> 
> http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag240/Tropical66/Tank5_zps496931d9.jpg



Sorry but that's weak. You need much more flow. When out of the water it needs to be nearly hitting the front. 

On another note what type of aponogeton is that? I really like it, I have a few myself


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## Bhu

Carl Whitbread said:


> Hi Bhu, Without me sounding thick (not hard ) , how do I turn the reactor upside down once it is installed and has the water in it and especially if my tubing is tight as can be to max the flow?
> 
> Is there a knack to it?
> 
> Thanks for your support and help


This will be clear when you start it up


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## Bhu

Carl Whitbread said:


> Bhu, just a thought here. do you now have two spray bars? It would be good to see the top of your tank so I can see what you have done. I want to avoid two spray bars so not sure how to route it
> 
> Thanks again,



It's there is you look. I have one spray bar and one crook direct into the tank. Also from Zak Rafik suggestion which he also does.


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## Bhu

Carl Whitbread said:


> Just looked at this pump and the read up says that the tube size is 19/27mm... How strange i sthat? I have 16\22mm as I am sure you have so how did you get round this mate?



16/22 fits it nice and tight which is what you want with that kind of pumping power


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## Zak Rafik

Carl Whitbread said:


> My CO2 has switched on and my UP still leaks so that will be getting removed and I will contact CO2Art





Bhu said:


> I'm not sure if a black out will kill BBA



Hi Everyone.
*Please be very careful when purchasing or using the Sear 1000  Co2 reactor.* 
Mine broke big time last night and is leaking badly. I'll do a post here asap and give the full details. 
As of this morning, I have to use the inline diffuser. 
*Yup! good old 7UP look is back.*


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## Carl Whitbread

Zak Rafik said:


> Hi Everyone.
> *Please be very careful when purchasing or using the Sear 1000  Co2 reactor.*
> Mine broke big time last night and is leaking badly. I'll do a post here asap and give the full details.
> As of this morning, I have to use the inline diffuser.
> *Yup! good old 7UP look is back.*


WHAT !!!! Please tell me your joking Zak Rafik.... But something tells me your not. I have already suffered a bad leak when my Eheim filter leaked and went into my carpet so I am pretty nervous to go back down that road again. I suppose as I have only just ordered it I may be able to ring the supplier and cancel it, but I don't want to jump too soon. 

Keep us posted Zak Rafik


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## Carl Whitbread

I am sorry to hear about it Zak Rafik, I really am. I hope you get the issue sorted soon and I look forward to your update


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## Bhu

Come on Zak Rafik! You can't drop that on us and then not give further details. I did email sera a second time re the plastic material used. Still no reply. Where did it break? The screw thread? Or did the chamber crack? Or is it the co2 nipple? We await your reply. Did you break it by being rough with it? Mine is still going strong so from now on I treat it like a baby lol


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## Carl Whitbread

Well I was just having a bath and I had an eureka moment just like Archimedes except that I did not run down the street naked. Here is my update. I removed two filter baskets out of my filter to improve flow as suggested by Whisper but it did not make any difference none that was noticeable at least. So during my bath I thought about the problem and wondered if the problem was my spray bar. So after a dismantle of the existing Eheim spray bar and a quick replacement withthe JBL spray bar that came with the filter, my filter output pressure went up big time. I realised that I had put my Eheim spray bar on using the Eheim installation set 2  and did not use the JBL spray bar that came with the filter. The reason for this was that I spent alot of money on the Eheim installation set 2 and then buying the extra bits to extend the spray bar across the back of the tank so I wnated to keep it but clearly did not think about the impact as I just did not realise. I measured the Eheim tube diameter and one end of the extension set bar has a wider opening than the other. Therefore one end measured 20mm wide and the other 16mm. Then I measured the JBL spray bar and found that the internal tube diameter is 12mm. The JBL has a 16mm connection but then inside it has a 12mm reducer. I have just fallen slightly short of extending my spray bar across the back but I do have an old Eheim 12mm spray bar that I will see if it fits into my JBL. I could not believe what a simple mistake that I made that has caused me more issues. I now find that all of my plants sway really nicely and also I have debris floating around the tank that I presume is from the substrate floor. It looks like I have my vortex after all. Here are some pictures. I did consider doing a video upload to photobucket but it is 170mb so maybe too big for some of you to view but it's a shame as you will see all of my plants swaying really well

Here is the new power
http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag240/Tropical66/Newtank_zps472ec379.jpg

You can see here the white blips are acutally water from the spray bar which is just under the surface but I may more further under water by 1"
http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag240/Tropical66/Newtank1_zps693e10af.jpg

The white floaty bits are from the substrate that have been forced upwards
http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag240/Tropical66/bits_zpsf661e68c.jpg

Is my spray bar still too short? The Eheim 12mm will not fit into my JBL
http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag240/Tropical66/Short_zps5a39b0ea.jpg

This is not pearling. This is me attacking the Algae with Hydrogen Peroxide. Will post another in a few days time
http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag240/Tropical66/byebyealgae_zps05817ea8.jpg


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## foxfish

I have come across several post on this forum & others about the brittle nature of these reactors!
It seems the hose attachments can crack quite easily or even completely snap off although super glue seems to repair the damage.
The other interesting thing I have read relates to the spinning blades, it appears that you can remove them with no lose of performance - some report improved performance!
However I am relating to smaller version & I don't have any personal experience myself.


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## Carl Whitbread

Bhu said:


> Come on Zak Rafik! You can't drop that on us and then not give further details. I did email sera a second time re the plastic material used. Still no reply. Where did it break? The screw thread? Or did the chamber crack? Or is it the co2 nipple? We await your reply. Did you break it by being rough with it? Mine is still going strong so from now on I treat it like a baby lol


Well said Bhu, but to be fair to Zak Rafik he is probably still cleaning up the puddles

In the past I used a TMC Aquagro CO2 Power Diffuser 1000 and it leaked as soon as I started it up. I used jubilee clips to try and stop it leaking but it just continued to leak. It also only filled up halfway when in use and then when the CO2 when off the water level rose to where it should have been, so the CO2 was not properly mixed. In the end I put it inside the tank and connected it to another power head to try and solve the issue. Not sure if it leaked as the reactor was inside the tank. It was a useless piece of junk although I do still have it and very nearly put it back inside my tank instead of the UP. But hey why go backwards with a piece of tack that is only fit for being melted down and recycled into carrier bags.

All of a sudden the 7UP effect does not appear to be so bad after all. I am considering cancelling my order for my sera. The shop opens at 11am.. so time is ticking


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## Carl Whitbread

foxfish said:


> I have come across several post on this forum & others about the brittle nature of these reactors!
> It seems the hose attachments can crack quite easily or even completely snap off although super glue seems to repair the damage.
> The other interesting thing I have read relates to the spinning blades, it appears that you can remove them with no lose of performance - some report improved performance!
> However I am relating to smaller version & I don't have any personal experience myself.



Ah Foxfish a very interesting reply. Do you use CO2 and if so what reactor do you use and is it any good?

Just seen the link at the bottom of your post showing your own DIY CO2 reactor. Looks good. May be a challenge for me to source the spares


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## foxfish

There is a video in my signature link.


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## Carl Whitbread

foxfish said:


> I have come across several post on this forum & others about the brittle nature of these reactors!
> It seems the hose attachments can crack quite easily or even completely snap off although super glue seems to repair the damage.
> The other interesting thing I have read relates to the spinning blades, it appears that you can remove them with no lose of performance - some report improved performance!
> However I am relating to smaller version & I don't have any personal experience myself.



Just watched your video as well. All I can say is Foxfish - Your are a genius. I did check out Ebay for some spares but they are asking nearly £50 for the housing plus you also have a daddy of a pump to power it. I best that cost some money too


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## foxfish

Yes mate my reactor design in a little Heath Robinson & they can be a bit fickle to set up, so far from perfect but once dialled in they work without adjustment for years and years.
I keep meaning to develop it a little more with a simple airline tube to redirect any build up of gas back into the flow but I never seem to find the time.


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## Carl Whitbread

foxfish said:


> Yes mate my reactor design in a little Heath Robinson & they can be a bit fickle to set up, so far from perfect but once dialled in they work without adjustment for years and years.
> I keep meaning to develop it a little more with a simple airline tube to redirect any build up of gas back into the flow but I never seem to find the time.


Just watched your video again and I sae from other posts that your design is well respected by other members. Did you ever get round to doing a building it video?


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## Carl Whitbread

foxfish said:


> Yes mate my reactor design in a little Heath Robinson & they can be a bit fickle to set up, so far from perfect but once dialled in they work without adjustment for years and years.
> I keep meaning to develop it a little more with a simple airline tube to redirect any build up of gas back into the flow but I never seem to find the time.



A quick check on ebay is a little tricky as most of teh cannisters have a tapered bottom. Please would yu look ath this one and let me know if you think its suitable - thank you

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-WATER-...UK_Pet_Supplies_Fish&var=&hash=item58b75ad020


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## Bhu

Id say more than suitable! But you still have to then convert it to aquarium use with the hoses and get a co2 connection to it. Id be interested how you get on. Saying that my sera so far so good no issues! Best DC colour and consistency I've had so far...


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## Bhu

Hey Zak Rafik so sorry to hear your disaster must be pretty bad for you to be offline so long. Hope you get it all sorted soon and come back. 

Best wishes

Bhu


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## Bhu

Bhu said:


> Id say more than suitable! But you still have to then convert it to aquarium use with the hoses and get a co2 connection to it. Id be interested how you get on. Saying that my sera so far so good no issues! Best DC colour and consistency I've had so far...



Saying that it seems those using the 10" ones are getting co2 bubbles escaping into the tank. Might need at least 12" if you can find it or the huge 20" version. Maybe you can work on the design to force the water I to a spiral flow with an obstruction on the inlet that forces the water to start vortexing. 

I'm sticking with my sera for now as I'm really happy with it. But saying that im going to have a contingency plan in case of emergencies  so time to get creative and make something similar that is sterdier. I have seen some really good ones made from acrylic as well but these ones seem so much easier, especially for maintenance.


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## Carl Whitbread

Bhu said:


> I have seen some really good ones made from acrylic as well but these ones seem so much easier, especially for maintenance.



You can always guarantee an item will leak during the night so its always good to have a Plan B. I would be interested to here what your plan B will be. As for me I cancelled my Sera order and will start to evaluate a DIY solution before I build my own. My first issue is that I am going to have to remove that UP Inline as it now leaks water as soon as it switches on. I know I will get a supportive response from CO2Art as those guys know how to deliver excellent Customer Service. 

As for the vortex in the DIY solution well I have looked around and even seen some posts by Foxfish so there are ways of solving that issue with using different bottles etc. You have to admit Foxfish really came up with something and now I can improvise on it and make it my own.

I am just uploading a video to photobucket so keep an eye out for my next post. The flow is amazing and since finishing the video I have watched a leaf go from the back to the front of the tank and then vortex so I know my filter is more than powerful. I am glad that I went for the filter model that I did and it also means that I can add an extra length to the spray bar.


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## Carl Whitbread

Bhu said:


> Saying that it seems those using the 10" ones are getting co2 bubbles escaping into the tank. Might need at least 12" if you can find it or the huge 20" version. Maybe you can work on the design to force the water I to a spiral flow with an obstruction on the inlet that forces the water to start vortexing.
> 
> I'm sticking with my sera for now as I'm really happy with it. But saying that im going to have a contingency plan in case of emergencies  so time to get creative and make something similar that is sterdier. I have seen some really good ones made from acrylic as well but these ones seem so much easier, especially for maintenance.



You can always guarantee an item will leak during the night so its always good to have a Plan B, in addition to a mop and bucket. I would be interested to see what your plan B will be. As for me I cancelled my Sera order and will start to evaluate before I build my own. My first issue is that I am going to have to remove that UP Inline as it now leaks water as soon as it switches on. I know I will get a supportive response from CO2Art as those guys know how to deliver excellent Customer Service.

As for the vortex in the DIY solution well I have looked around and even seen some posts by Foxfish and other forum members and there is ways of solving that issue with using different bottles. I only have a 180 litre tank so the 10" will be fine I am sure and the 20" will be overkill as well as very expensive. The 12" do not seem to exist anymore


----------



## Bhu

The issue with the 10" was that some were having co2 bubbles escape or a huge build up of co2 at the top. The build up of co2 can cause burps in the system or worse build up pressure that causes leaks or I consistancy in the co2 supply. The escaping co2 takes us back to the 7UP effect which is undesirable. Who knows maybe 10 years down the line I'm still using my sera 1000.  so far so good


----------



## Carl Whitbread

Bhu said:


> The issue with the 10" was that some were having co2 bubbles escape or a huge build up of co2 at the top. The build up of co2 can cause burps in the system or worse build up pressure that causes leaks or I consistancy in the co2 supply. The escaping co2 takes us back to the 7UP effect which is undesirable. Who knows maybe 10 years down the line I'm still using my sera 1000.  so far so good



Or still mopping up the water.. 

I will let you know what I build


----------



## Bhu

I really don't find the build that bad on the sera 1000 and it's doing a great job. Let's wait to hear from Zak Rafik what happened for him...


----------



## Wisey

Yup, really want to know what happened! Sounds like he had a pretty major disaster with it which will be a real shame.


----------



## Zak Rafik

Bhu said:


> Come on Zak Rafik! You can't drop that on us and then not give further details.


Hi,
Sorry I was out of the country the whole day. I will post a reply with photos this evening. The reactor is ok but its just that be very careful when attaching the Co2 tube.
Apologize for the undue anxiety caused.
Cheers.


----------



## Bhu

Lol ha ha nice one Zak Rafik  glad you are ok. We look forward to your updates. But it's good to know that its the co2 nipple that's gone and not something else. I have added a one way valve so never need to go near the co2 inlet nipple on the sera 1000 again  

Best wishes

Bhu


----------



## Wisey

I had visions of the entire tank contents pumped out around your home and dead fish!

I'm pleased to hear it was not so dramatic, but your post sure made it look that way with the large red letters!


----------



## Bhu

No joke! Phew!  and maybe Carl has canceled his order with no good reason and still without a co2 source that's stable and non 7UP lol


----------



## Carl Whitbread

Zak Rafik said:


> Hi,
> Sorry I was out of the country the whole day. I will post a reply with photos this evening. The reactor is ok but its just that be very careful when attaching the Co2 tube.
> Apologize for the undue anxiety caused.
> Cheers.



Yes , you really must becareful when attaching tubing to nipples...


----------



## Carl Whitbread

Wisey said:


> I had visions of the entire tank contents pumped out around your home and dead fish!
> 
> I'm pleased to hear it was not so dramatic, but your post sure made it look that way with the large red letters!



Hey Wisey, did you see my photos of my flow now?


----------



## Wisey

Carl Whitbread said:


> Hey Wisey, did you see my photos of my flow now?



Yeah, looks much better! Would be best to have it cover the whole width of the tank to reduce deadspots, but it is certainly a huge improvment in flow.


----------



## Carl Whitbread

Bhu said:


> No joke! Phew!  and maybe Carl has canceled his order with no good reason and still without a co2 source that's stable and non 7UP lol



Hi Bhu, At this moment in time I am still ok with cancelling my order. Today I attached my old TMC 1000 Power Diffuser and it's doing a grand job. No 7UP effect and no leaking CO2 and water into my house. I worked out the low water issue that these Diffusers can suffer. It's only air so just tunr the diffuser upside down a few times with the filter is on. Same principle as with the sera eh.
I had an email today from CO2Art and they are sending me a new body (I hope my wife will be pleased..  ) CO2Art also told me that they are going to release the metal body version of the UP and also that they are working on their own Diffuser. I recommend that they use a brass nipple connector. I just love CO2Art they are just great at what they do so let's hope we see a great diffuser. So watch this space and of course the CO2Art web site...


----------



## Bhu

Hi Carl, do,you mean a difusser or a reactor? I know they are making the metal body for the UP and saw their thread on taking requests for a reactor design but didn't realise that they had started making one. Did they say how long til it's out? Is the TMC 1000 also a reactor and not a difussor? Any how hope you get sorted as well. I'm really happy for now. But if co2Art are going to bring a reactor out I think I will buy that instead of making a backup plan


----------



## Carl Whitbread

I decided to remove some of the destroyed plants today and added 3 pieces of bogwood that I took out sometime ago. My PH is 7.38 when my CO2 is on and then it rises to 7.45 during the night. My PH out of the tap it is 7.0 so I would like to try and lower it down. I have added some purigen to my filter to combat the tannin. Anyway take a look as I am really stuck as to what to add to make it look stunning. Advice welcome

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag240/Tropical66/revised_zps7630ecae.jpg


----------



## Bhu

Just looked up the TMC 1000 power difusser. Looks more like a reactor TBO. And very similar to the sera 1000 why did you stop using it? Looks ok...


----------



## Carl Whitbread

Wisey said:


> Yeah, looks much better! Would be best to have it cover the whole width of the tank to reduce deadspots, but it is certainly a huge improvment in flow.


Thanks for that Wisey. I suspected the same so I will be ordering some extra pipe when I can.


----------



## Bhu

Hi Carl you never did say what variety of aponogeton that is. How about some alternanthera rosaefolia they AR lovely and bush out great. Mine adds some lovely colour of pinks and reds...


----------



## Carl Whitbread

Bhu said:


> Just looked up the TMC 1000 power difusser. Looks more like a reactor TBO. And very similar to the sera 1000 why did you stop using it? Looks ok...


When I attached my Eheim pipe to it the pipe conections leaked straight away. I used jubilee clips and that still did not resolve the leaks so I had no other choice but to buy a Eheim compact pump and submerge it into the tank and I hate too much kit into the tank. I just about give my seneye some room.

Anyway, today when I attached my JBL tubing onto the diffuser the pipe was snug and did not leak at all so it'connector s wizzing away at the present time and still have strong flo in my tank, mind you I am not surprised with my 1400 L p/h output

It appears that the Eheim tube must be slightly larger than 22mm or perhaps the JBL is slightly smaller than 22mm... who knows but on the TMC the JBL tube wins hands down


----------



## Carl Whitbread

Bhu said:


> Hi Carl you never did say what variety of aponogeton that is. How about some alternanthera rosaefolia they AR lovely and bush out great. Mine adds some lovely colour of pinks and reds...


 Ah sorry about that. Yes I was looking into it but I am unable to find any details as I bought it from an Aquatic Centre that is now closed... If I find anything then I will let you know, I would love to buy some more of it as the Platys leave it alone...


----------



## Carl Whitbread

Wisey said:


> Yeah, looks much better! Would be best to have it cover the whole width of the tank to reduce deadspots, but it is certainly a huge improvment in flow.



Forgot to say that the spray bar is now submerged. It certainly has been interesting watching the bits float around and see being sucked up again by the vortext.  Any view on my attempt for my tank? Not quite an aquascape master


----------



## Bhu

It looks fine, just needs more plants. I did mention the Alternanthera rosaefolia which grows well and adds a good splash of colour. Here is where I got my aponogetons from...

http://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/aqu...8.html?zenid=94c2f600f6acf84e348e773ee14d6d18


----------



## Carl Whitbread

Bhu said:


> It looks fine, just needs more plants. I did mention the Alternanthera rosaefolia which grows well and adds a good splash of colour. Here is where I got my aponogetons from...
> 
> http://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/aqu...8.html?zenid=94c2f600f6acf84e348e773ee14d6d18



Thanks for that info. I bought a whole load of plants from AE this year and within a couple of days some had turned to candy floss and then eventually disappeared. I told AE and they were supportive to begin with and then the replies ceased so I am not too much of a fan anymore. They all so said that they grew all of their plants but when mine arrived they arrived in boxes from Holland.. Perhaps just a coincidence, anyway I lost the plants and did not buy anymore and the ones that survived began to get eaten. What a vicious circle. I will look at AE again but there plants and kit they sell are more expensive across the range. I am very loyal to CO2Art who also sell plants. Here have a look as they sell plants similar to AE

http://www.co2art.co.uk/collections/aquarium-plants


----------



## Carl Whitbread

Bhu said:


> Hi Carl you never did say what variety of aponogeton that is. How about some alternanthera rosaefolia they AR lovely and bush out great. Mine adds some lovely colour of pinks and reds...


When my CO2 is on via the TMC Diffuser my tank is not perfectly clear but looks a little foggy. Does yours have the same effect with your Sera?


----------



## Bhu

Sure co2 Art are great and I buy from them also.


----------



## Bhu

Carl Whitbread said:


> When my CO2 is on via the TMC Diffuser my tank is not perfectly clear but looks a little foggy. Does yours have the same effect with your Sera?



There is no fogging or misting at all. The tank is clear all the time. 100%


----------



## Bhu

Ive and all these plants for nearly 2 months now and they have grown loads. They all came from AE. I don't hink that their plants are bad but do agree that their after sales support could be a lot better...





The lower middle section is lilaeopsis brasiliensis which although alive and healthy looking just hasnt spread out  but I haven't given up on it yet  Sorry about the poor quality picture!


----------



## Carl Whitbread

Bhu said:


> Sorry about the poor quality picture!



Hey Bhu that is lovely setup well done and what a cool discus it looks really mean..., . I would currently describe my tank as looking milky... it's really strange Well I will wait for my new body to arrive and then install that. I just hope they have a body that fits someone who is 6ft 10


----------



## Bhu

Yes she's a lovely Discus. Not looking so happy at the moment though as she has had a fall out with her long term mate. I'm a bit worried, she is eating ok but he's giving her a hard time and she's hiding away in the echinodorus Belheri most the day and only comes out to eat. Lovers tiff lol but a discus's desire for food over comes most things, they love their food! So your going back to the UP? It's a shame you pulled out of the sera as I think you would have got on well with it. I think it just needs care around the co2 inlet which is why I've used a one way valve with 4" of tube to the sera so if I need to take it apart to clean can just remove the one way valve and keep far away from the co2 inlet on the sera  anyhow I will keep in touch on this thread how it goes over the months with mine...


----------



## Zak Rafik

Hi everyone,

OK. two days ago, I was doing 50% PWC, cleaning the two Eheim filters ( 2080 & 2075) and trimming away damaged plants due to BGA outbreak. ( I know, I over did it )
It was past  midnight and I tried to fix a softer type Co2 hose. Although I took extra precaution when pushing the new hose into the Co2 inlet of the Sear 1000 reactor, after starting the filters, I noticed that the reactor was leaking badly. Upon close inspection, saw that the plastic thread on the plastic screw and the reactor was damaged. So Now I'm back on the inline diffuser. Have to find a way to fix the damaged Co2 nozzle.

So those who are interested in the Sear reactor, please be careful when connecting the Co2 hose.

BTW what's the best way to clean an inline diffuser?
1. Soak in household ammonia and then in Prime.
2. Soak in vinegar
3. Soak in Hydrogen Peroxide.

Cheers

http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b631/Zak_Rafik/screw-thread-damaged1_zpsce4f49e2.jpg

http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b631/Zak_Rafik/screw-thread-damaged_zps7f96d18a.jpg


----------



## Bhu

Hi Zak Rafik

Wow those threads are really chewed up! I think that the sera is very delicate and fragile. I treat mine like a baby  so far so good and great results really stable co2 at a good level constant light green and no 7UP. 

The best way to clean the UP is to soak the ceramic in bleach over night then rinse and rinse, prime is a good way to clear the chlorine. 

Just noticed your quote after the post... Sounds like the Dahli Lamha.


----------



## Wisey

I really am in two minds where to go now looking at how easily that chewed up, but then I guess if you cross thread a plastic thread then its gonna be toast pretty easily.

As you will see from my journal, I finally got the last replacement part for the damaged filter from Charterhouse. It may be that I have to wait until the new year to buy the CO2 gear with the expense of Christmas and a wedding coming up that I am travelling to. The other complication I will have with the Sera is my filter is so big that the top is quite high in the cabinet, so somehow I would need to get the tubing up from the connector, then bend it down to the reactor which is not going to be so good for flow as having the tube going straight up in to an inline and then straight out the back of the cabinet and up to the spray bar.

It's going to be Thursday before I have time to get the filter put together and see how things fit in the cabinet, but when the time comes I will really appreciate your participation on my journal thread to put a plan together on how it would potentially fit.


----------



## Zak Rafik

Bhu said:


> I treat mine like a baby  so far so good


Wow! Like a baby uhh!


Bhu said:


> so far so good and great results really stable co2 at a good level constant light green and no 7UP.



Ok. Now I'm jealous.


Bhu said:


> UP is to soak the ceramic in bleach over night then rinse and rinse, prime is a good way to clear the chlorine.


I'm not very comfortable with using bleach. Not sure if the water mixed with bleach is total out of the chamber inside the inline diffuser.
Have you tried with hydrogen peroxide.?
Cheers.

ps.


Bhu said:


> Just noticed your quote after the post... Sounds like the Dahli Lamha.


You think so? I have no idea but it sounds so zen like.Luv it.


----------



## Bhu

Well Wisey, as you have to wait, then see if co2Art get theirs together for after Christmas. If not I can give a good track record of my sera by then. As for the piping I know what you mean. Can you have your reactor outside the cabinet at the back? Or on the side outside of the tank? It does come with mounting gear to stick to glass with suction cups...

Hey Zak Rafik, yes with TLC thats the way to treat a sera 1000  ha ha

Yes be jealous for now  but for how long we shall see...

By bleach I mean the unscented pure variety. It easily rinses away with lots of rinses. Soaking it in pure water a few times afterwards will also weaken the bleach and make it safe. Do you intend to soak the whole difusser then? Is it the the intense one that doesn't come apart?

How long have you had your sera? Is it still under warranty? Worth a try maybe...

Let us know how you get on. I'm still really happy with my sera 1000 but I'm looking forward to seeing co2Art's reactor when they release it.


----------



## Wisey

My aquarium cabinet is in between a wardrobe and a chest of draws, so once it is filled, anything out the back is going to be almost impossible to work with, so I really need an in-cabinet solution otherwise I am going to be struggling with maintenance. I'm going to use taps as much as possible so I can just switch off and disconnect items for cleaning but I would still like stuff in the cabinet where it is easy to reach.


----------



## Bhu

Well I used a separate pump for my reactor. Saying that before the pump arrived I did have it attached to my canister. The pipes were curved but it still worked well. If that was going to be my final set up then I was going to my some solid gentle curves from acrylic to get to the reactor with out any kinks in the piping. They are easy to make. Cut your acrylic to size. Put a solid rubber or silicon in the acrylic tube. Heat up with a heat gun then bend when it's flexible and hold it in that shape until the acrylic resets. Using a separate pump I didn't need to do this in the end.


----------



## Wisey

Hmm, interesting! I suppose I could achieve the same thing by plumbing in some solid pipe of the right diameter to create a more structured pipe layout within the cabinet.


----------



## Zak Rafik

Bhu said:


> Do you intend to soak the whole difusser then? Is it the the intense one that doesn't come apart?


My diffuser is the intense model which can't be taken apart.

*Hope members who tried the Hydrogen peroxide method can in put their advice. Thanks.*




Bhu said:


> How long have you had your sera? Is it still under warranty? Worth a try maybe...


It has been only 12 days plus.
The LFS had already informed before hand that they would not do replacement. They have had many customer break this reactor during their set up or cleaning.

Do you know how I can salvage this reactor? Like drill in a small metal / plastic pipe to replace the reactor's nozzle?

Cheers


----------



## Bhu

I'm sure you can repair it no problem. TBH the screw cap on my co2 is obsolete and I don't use it. Same for the screw caps on the 16/20 piping. I wouldn't use metal pipe grips at the most I'd use the spring ones not the screw wind up ones as that risks cracking the sera. Also id really check with trading standards as a 7 day old product must clearly be under warranty. Contact sera!  I will look out for some parts that might help repair your sera and get back to you


----------



## Bhu

I have decided to turn my co2 down to less BPS as my fish are acting kinda strange and breathing very heavy. It's a real challenge finding a happy balance!


----------



## Carl Whitbread

Zak Rafik said:


> BTW what's the best way to clean an inline diffuser?



Hi Zak Rafik,
I assume your filter tube connections are 16/22mm

If you have the UP Intense then you are unable to remove the ceramic so I would recommend an inline cleaner from CO2Art. They ship worldwide, here is the item,

http://www.co2art.co.uk/collections...-atomizer-detergent-kit-with-16-22mm-end-caps

If you have the UP Inline then you can remove the ceramic and place in the same solution as above. I prefer not to use bleach as I do not want to run the risk of any contaminants. By all means ask CO2Art for their recommendation but for mine I go an additional ceramic so I have one being cleaned and one being used. Here is the ceramic details

http://www.co2art.co.uk/collections...ramic-tube-for-up-latest-inline-co2-atomizers

Hope this helps you


----------



## DjDamo

Interesting thread, I'm to going through similar challenges,
125l tank
Fluval 206 external filter
Co2 art paintball co2 kit with atomiser diffuser in tank, 7 UP effect.
I have just upgraded lights to TMC Aqua grobeam led with controller.
Now want to inject co2 without the bubbles and came across original thread around the sera co2 reactor.
I was guessing the 500 model based on my flow rate, even though tempted by the 1000.

What I'm reading from the thread it has its pro's but be careful of attaching tubing and balancing CO2 on set up ??
I need to replace the fluval 16/22 ribbed tubing I guess to attach.


----------



## Bhu

Id wait to see what co2Art bring out if possible, else yes the sera works ok if you are careful with the hoses. I don't know the fluval tubing so can't coment on that.


----------



## Bhu

Well after turning down the bps my fish are no longer stressed but the plants are!  I've got crypt melt and my DC is a deep turquoise green instead of light green  I can't seem to win! I have now turned it up again a little bit. It certainly is a fine balance act co2! 

Maybe I need to dose oxygen too?


----------



## X3NiTH

From personal experience you are now at the point that you need to play about with the co2 off gassing rate to support the amount you are putting in to get a green DC and for it to be safe for fish.


----------



## Bhu

X3NiTH said:


> you need to play about with the co2 off gassing rate


 
Hi X3NiTH

Can you explain that a bit more for me 

Tnx

Bhu


----------



## Carl Whitbread

X3NiTH said:


> From personal experience you are now at the point that you need to play about with the co2 off gassing rate to support the amount you are putting in to get a green DC and for it to be safe for fish.


I agree...


----------



## Carl Whitbread

I have a Eheim Surface Skimmer as I find that this helps with the CO2 \ Oxygen exchange it also helps keep the top water clean. I hope I understood the quote from X3NiTH.

I have also replaced the body of my UP Inline with he replacement from the wonderful guys at CO2Art and all is very good.


----------



## X3NiTH

At 100% co2 dissolution, my injection rate is set such that if I remove my Airstone (provides most of my surface agitation) my tank will hold co2 like a bottle and the fish can't tolerate the gas, they can tolerate the same injection rate if co2 is allowed to off gas more effectively. Being able to adjust the air coming out of the Airstone I can increase or decrease the aperture through which co2 can escape the water allowing me to fine tune things around to the comfort of both the plants and the fish. 

What I have found is that It's not just about how much co2 you can inject into the water it's also about how much co2 you can eject to keep fish safely at 30ppm.


----------



## Bhu

Mmmm I see. I do have a strong surface agitation as I have 15x flow and the spray bar is pointing up and the other input is just the crook bend near the surface also. I don't have an air stone though! I was thinking that I might need to run one at night to help with the extra load. I hear if you get a good O2 supply for the night this also really helps through the day. There is no film on the surface of my water but an airstone is always useful. 

Do you feel that the air stone needs to be going during the day as well as the night?


----------



## X3NiTH

My flow is about 15x also. It's especially important for me to keep the Airstone running after lights out to help co2 off gassing happen quicker otherwise the tank stores it like a bottle overnight, this has knock on effects for the next injection period. Having the Airstone run all night my pH is at a stable high for a couple of hours before the gas comes back on. This stable pH point is my starting base point for the days injection (starting pH changes throughout the week due to tank influences, ie fish/plant waste & EI dosing). Running it 24/7 overcomes my filtration method of using a crook and not a spraybar to keep water/air contact high.

If your off gassing rate is already at a maximum due to filtration method and you need more off gassing then an Airstone can help, you can then bleed air from the line to fine tune the amount you need without having to fiddle with the needle valve on the co2 regulator (mines set a good rate and balanced by the air off gassing co2)

My tank is a small cube so the surface area is not great, so my margins for error are very narrow, and small adjustments have a greater effect. I think the larger the tank the less of a problem this tends to be.

If I had the space then I would be having a tank with an overflow and a wet dry sump so there is always a maximum of water air contact ensuring good oxygenation and maximally efficient co2 off gassing. I've read (TheBarrReport) that some users using this filtration method can off gas co2 within an hour of solenoid closing from a 1 point pH drop (mine takes 8 hours with the help of an Airstone). The canister filter represents a closed loop in the system ensuring that any gas transfer out of the system always happens through the tank surface area, which is effectively the closed neck of a bottle, the smaller the neck the tougher it is to off gas co2.

I hope that makes sense.

Other things I'm doing slightly differently is that I have augmented my air supply to the Airstone by sending it from two different pumps. One runs 24/7 with a line from it that I can bleed to adjust the bubble rate, the other is plumbed into the same line after a one way valve so that it doesn't back pressure into the other pumps line, this pump is controlled by an UP pH controller (CO2Art) set to LO, this way when the pH drops to a point where the fish will show signs of stress due to the amount of co2 going in but not coming out, it triggers the supplemental air to come on and blow of a little more co2 to keep the fish comfortable, I never have to reach for the needle valve, just balance it with air injection. The only thing I have to do to maintain this is to note my start pH for the day, calculate the drop and adjust the controller to come on just past this.

If the controllers could learn the daily pH stable start point and adjust their variances accordingly it would be entirely hands free, but alas these don't exist yet, at least not as a consumer item (not impossible though).


----------



## Bhu

X3NiTH said:


> My flow is about 15x also. It's especially important for me to keep the Airstone running after lights out to help co2 off gassing happen quicker otherwise the tank stores it like a bottle overnight, this has knock on effects for the next injection period. Having the Airstone run all night my pH is at a stable high for a couple of hours before the gas comes back on. This stable pH point is my starting base point for the days injection (starting pH changes throughout the week due to tank influences, ie fish/plant waste & EI dosing). Running it 24/7 overcomes my filtration method of using a crook and not a spraybar to keep water/air contact high.
> 
> If your off gassing rate is already at a maximum due to filtration method and you need more off gassing then an Airstone can help, you can then bleed air from the line to fine tune the amount you need without having to fiddle with the needle valve on the co2 regulator (mines set a good rate and balanced by the air off gassing co2)
> 
> My tank is a small cube so the surface area is not great, so my margins for error are very narrow, and small adjustments have a greater effect. I think the larger the tank the less of a problem this tends to be.
> 
> If I had the space then I would be having a tank with an overflow and a wet dry sump so there is always a maximum of water air contact ensuring good oxygenation and maximally efficient co2 off gassing. I've read (TheBarrReport) that some users using this filtration method can off gas co2 within an hour of solenoid closing from a 1 point pH drop (mine takes 8 hours with the help of an Airstone). The canister filter represents a closed loop in the system ensuring that any gas transfer out of the system always happens through the tank surface area, which is effectively the closed neck of a bottle, the smaller the neck the tougher it is to off gas co2.
> 
> I hope that makes sense.
> 
> Other things I'm doing slightly differently is that I have augmented my air supply to the Airstone by sending it from two different pumps. One runs 24/7 with a line from it that I can bleed to adjust the bubble rate, the other is plumbed into the same line after a one way valve so that it doesn't back pressure into the other pumps line, this pump is controlled by an UP pH controller (CO2Art) set to LO, this way when the pH drops to a point where the fish will show signs of stress due to the amount of co2 going in but not coming out, it triggers the supplemental air to come on and blow of a little more co2 to keep the fish comfortable, I never have to reach for the needle valve, just balance it with air injection. The only thing I have to do to maintain this is to note my start pH for the day, calculate the drop and adjust the controller to come on just past this.
> 
> If the controllers could learn the daily pH stable start point and adjust their variances accordingly it would be entirely hands free, but alas these don't exist yet, at least not as a consumer item (not impossible though).



Hi X3NiTH

Thanks for that it makes a lot of sense. I was under the false illusion that the plants would use all the co2!

This part is very good...

"Other things I'm doing slightly differently is that I have augmented my air supply to the Airstone by sending it from two different pumps. One runs 24/7 with a line from it that I can bleed to adjust the bubble rate, the other is plumbed into the same line after a one way valve so that it doesn't back pressure into the other pumps line, this pump is controlled by an UP pH controller (CO2Art) set to LO, this way when the pH drops to a point where the fish will show signs of stress due to the amount of co2 going in but not coming out, it triggers the supplemental air to come on and blow of a little more co2 to keep the fish comfortable, I never have to reach for the needle valve, just balance it with air injection. The only thing I have to do to maintain this is to note my start pH for the day, calculate the drop and adjust the controller to come on just past this."

I really do need to get an air stone running even if it just comes on when the co2 goes off. I almost got the sump version of my tank but the reports of condensation in the cabinet really put me off...

Well I will start with an airstone and see how it goes...

Best wishes

Bhu


----------



## DjDamo

Anyone using the sera reactor what pressure are you running?.
Reviewing the online manual recommends max 1 bar, (14.5 psi)
Just purchase non return valve which needs working pressure of 2 bar?
Are the instructions edging on the conservative?


----------



## Bhu

Wow I didn't know that I. Sure I'm well over that like 40psi as it was set for my UP inline. I've had no leaks but probably best I reduce it a little  getting really good results though!


----------



## DjDamo

Perhaps they edge on the sire of caution, I guess my concern at 2 bar should be ok, as long as tight connection. I'm awaiting my delivery to set up.
Page 9 if you are interested
https://www.sera.de/fileadmin/gbi/08057_08058_sera_CO2_Reaktoren_2010_04.pdf


----------



## Bhu

Sure I have the pdf as as well as the manual that comes with it. I quickly went and read mine and found the part about working pressure. Will reduce mine some what. Maybe it will work better for it! I am having to have quite a night bps at the moment. Maybe that will be less now?


----------



## Bhu

So im down to about 1.5-1.8 bar now nearly 20 psi. Im still having to use quite a high bps to get the DC light green for lights on even when the co2 starts 4 hours before. Fish seem all ok since I added an air stone so far so good. Still need to tweak it some as it could be slightly lighter in the green. The plants are all ok but im only on 50% lights and not much growth now so need to be able to increase the pressure on them to grow without any melt


----------



## DjDamo

So installed the sera 500, as per comments around 5 days delivery via German company on Amazon.
Took advice around connecting c02 pipe, soaked in hot water to soften tubing, fits fine.
As per Bhu now trying to get a balance on co2 running 1hr 30m before lights on at around 2bps.
Bit fiddly with fluval tubing, running some 16/22 tubing from filter, then from sera the existing fluval tubing with rubber connector...bit nervous may have a swimming pool one of these days...

The 206 filter not great flow and noticed a reduction with the sera, spray bar still gives good movement.
I notice more of a swirl when co2 on from the reactor, I think I need to tweak the piping as a slight kink and I have not given myself a lot of tubing to try and get rid of air trapped...

Watch this space...


----------



## Bhu

Well ive got my balance good now but coming on with co2 some 4 hours before lights on! Also the bps is a constant stream lol

I am amazed you are using a jubilee clip on the sera hose section as they are plastics with a track record of being fragile. Id have used a spring one at the most.

Hope you don't get a swimming pool and that its all balanced and running good soon enough...

Here is my latest tank shot from today...


----------



## Zak Rafik

Bhu said:


> Well ive got my balance good now but coming on with co2 some 4 hours before lights on! Also the bps is a constant stream lol



Hi Bhu,

How's is your reactor doing so far? 
As for my tank, since my Sera reactor's Co2 nozzle broke, I'm stuck with using the inline diffuser for now. 
Thinking of ways to ix the broken nozzle.

Cheers


----------



## Bhu

Hi Zak Rafik
My sera is working really well. I now get more of a yellow colour than green and my fish seem to be able to cope with it quite well so have left the bubble count as it is for now. Must mean the plants are supplying them the oxygen they need  I still do have BBA issues though  hope you can find a way to fix your sera. There must be a metal screw threaded tube you can find online somewhere to add to it... I will have a better look in the new year.


----------



## Bhu

How about a grease nipple? 

http://www.anzor.co.nz/grease-nipples/product


----------



## Zak Rafik

Bhu said:


> Hi Zak Rafik
> My sera is working really well.


Glad to see things are working out fine.
As for BBA, I have it too in my tank even when using inline diffuser.
I bet even Takashi Amano has BBA in his tank

Have you looked at your tank flow?
I also find overdosing with Flourish Excel helps in bringing or slowing down the spread of BBA.

Thanks for the link for the Co2 nozzle.
In my country I can hardly find these in loose quantities. In any case fixing it water tight is another issue, I think.

I'll see what I can do.
Cheers.


----------



## Bhu

Tank flow is great. Over 10x, (150ltr tank with minimum 2000 ltr/h) funny thing is that the worse BBA is in the highest flow! If you carefully drill the sera to the thread size then very carefully screw the grease nipple in with silicone it will be water tight. The web link I sent was just for example there must be loads of these all over to buy. Try ebay.


----------



## Zak Rafik

Bhu said:


> Tank flow is great. Over 10x, (150ltr tank with minimum 2000 ltr/h) funny thing is that the worse BBA is in the highest flow!......... The web link I sent was just for example there must be loads of these all over to buy. Try ebay.




That's what I did and there are loads of options out there. I'll try contacting them very soon.

As for BBA in high flow areas....hummm...that's interesting to know. I do notice it in my tank too! I'm baffled by this.


----------



## Andy Thurston

How about these for your broken co2 fitting
http://www.pneulinesupply.com/products/product_details.php?cat_id=1&sub_id=3510&pr_id=3636
If not try your local rc model shop, you should be able to find a fuel fitting and a little diy


----------



## Zak Rafik

Big clown said:


> How about these for your broken co2 fitting
> http://www.pneulinesupply.com/products/product_details.php?cat_id=1&sub_id=3510&pr_id=3636
> If not try your local rc model shop, you should be able to find a fuel fitting and a little diy



Hi
That's good idea too. Thank!
This idea never occurred to me.
Cheers


----------



## Bhu

Big clown said:


> How about these for your broken co2 fitting
> http://www.pneulinesupply.com/products/product_details.php?cat_id=1&sub_id=3510&pr_id=3636
> If not try your local rc model shop, you should be able to find a fuel fitting and a little diy



They look perfect!


----------



## Zak Rafik

Bhu said:


> They look perfect!



Today I got a rude reminder on why I choose the Sera reactor in the first place.
After return from my long trip, I had changed the inline diffuser for a "clean" one about 1 week ago. At first, the bubble were in fine mist but since yesterday, I noticed the bubble were getter bigger. To make things worse, this morning, I noticed the bubble were even bigger. From the spray bar it simply heads straight to the surface.
I'm seeing an increase in BBA in my tank.

I had soaked the inline diffuser in full strength bleach for more than 2 days and then soaked in Prime 50% + water 50% solution for 2 days followed by soaking in plain water for 2 days!

Now I'm desperately looking for a way to repair the broken Co2 nozzle on my Seara 1000 reactor ( which by the way is more brittle than your average butter cookies)

In the meantime I came across a thread in this forum: http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/experiences-cleaning-inline-diffusers.14605/
I going to try out as mentioned below:


plantbrain said:


> Tilex, toilet bowl cleaner works much better than bleach FYI.
> Takes about 10 min and it will make any and all stuff growing or discoloring it go away.
> Rinse 2-3 x and then soak in dechlorinator for a min, then return to service with mist



It's getting a bit annoying..this Co2 thingy......


----------



## foxfish

Can you post a picture of the broken part?


----------



## kirk

Come on someone make a stainless 303 life time one , to repair it all you need is milliput mate. Belive me I've fixed boat hulls even a rad hose fitting on 4x4 and an n75 broken barb on our t4. Dries fast you can paint and sand it.


----------



## Zak Rafik

foxfish said:


> Can you post a picture of the broken part?



Hi

This is the pix of the broken nozzle.
Yesterday, I have tried to find locally RC plane fuel nozzles as mentioned by member *Big clown*. But they seem to be very expensive, almost half the cost of the Sear 1000 reactor.


http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b631/Zak_Rafik/IMG_1061_zps2ff05bea.jpg

http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b631/Zak_Rafik/IMG_1058_zpsc59509b6.jpg

http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b631/Zak_Rafik/IMG_1057_zpsc9ce8495.jpg


----------



## foxfish

So there is still a bit left in place, it is difficult to see exactly what has broken but there is still hope.
Can you push the co2 line over the threads, you may need to sand off the threads but super glue will bond PVC air line to the reactors plastic very well. The other option is to fill the hole and feed to co2 into the main flow or even into the pump inlet.


----------



## Zak Rafik

foxfish said:


> So there is still a bit left in place, it is difficult to see exactly what has broken but there is still hope.
> Can you push the co2 line over the threads, you may need to sand off the threads but super glue will bond PVC air line to the reactors plastic very well. The other option is to fill the hole and feed to co2 into the main flow or even into the pump inlet.



Hi
I get what you mean. The nozzle was not that damaged at first. A few days ago I tried a second time to push in the co2 hose and when I wanted to pull off the hose, the nozzle broke even more.

I'll try again as mentioned by you.  Also I was toying with idea of closing off the nozzle completely and injecting co2 into the reactor via the out put hose of my Eheim 2080 canister by connecting a Reducing T-piece. Unfortunately none of the local LFS seem to carry it. When I tried certain websites, there seem to be no reply from them or they don't do international shipping.


Tube diameter inner/outer - 16/22 mm, reduced to
inner/outer – 6/4 mm
http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums...4-AA6C-4177-B9E0-03A268B309C2_zpsvjcal5zh.jpg


----------



## Carl Whitbread

Zak Rafik said:


> Today I got a rude reminder on why I choose the Sera reactor in the first place.
> After return from my long trip, I had changed the inline diffuser for a "clean" one about 1 week ago. At first, the bubble were in fine mist but since yesterday, I noticed the bubble were getter bigger. To make things worse, this morning, I noticed the bubble were even bigger. From the spray bar it simply heads straight to the surface.
> I'm seeing an increase in BBA in my tank.
> 
> I had soaked the inline diffuser in full strength bleach for more than 2 days and then soaked in Prime 50% + water 50% solution for 2 days followed by soaking in plain water for 2 days!
> 
> Now I'm desperately looking for a way to repair the broken Co2 nozzle on my Seara 1000 reactor ( which by the way is more brittle than your average butter cookies)
> 
> In the meantime I came across a thread in this forum: http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/experiences-cleaning-inline-diffusers.14605/
> I going to try out as mentioned below:
> 
> 
> It's getting a bit annoying..this Co2 thingy......



Hi Zak Rafik,
Becareful with bleach. I bleached mine and all seemed ok and then I bleached my Purigen bag (the sealed one) and followed my routine as per the diffuser (similar to yours but I soak and rinse mine for longer) but when I placed my purigen bag into my filter and switched my filter on I noticed some clouding. I did not worry about it too much but within 4 hours had list 50% of my fish stock and I had ammonia and everything else going off. My Seneye tol me a great deal but there was little I could do about it. I know that I had washed that purigen bag really well and used prime so I would just say going forward I would not use bleach ever again to clean a product - It is not worth taking the risk and losing fish like I did. Instead clean it with Hydrogen Peroxide which is also good at getting rid of BBA. BUT using Hydrogen to get rid of BBA is just using a temporary solution to a long term problem. I have found that BBA is often caused by fluctuating CO2 and PH swings. I discovered that my KH was only 2 so my PH was going all over the place. I have stopped using RO water and now going back to tap water as I ralised that I was not adding a acid or alkaline buffer to my RO - Oooops so I was causing the problem myself. After two weeks my BBA is all but gone but I have let the CO2 off. My inline body was replaced by CO2 Art  and no more leaks - Thanks CO2 Art - Great Service as always. But the inline has really large CO2 bubbles and I am seriously considering going back to my TMC Diffuser. I really hope you fix your Sera. Keep us posted


----------



## Carl Whitbread

Bhu said:


> They look perfect!



Hi Bhu,
How is your Sera doing. Are you still pleased with it?

Balancing CO2 is a fine art and not easy to do. Ever though about leaingyour CO2 on 24 hours a day?


----------



## Zak Rafik

foxfish said:


> So there is still a bit left in place, it is difficult to see exactly what has broken but there is still hope.


What is your opinion of taking off the 2 grooved wheels inside the reactor. Would it lead to a better Co2 dissolve rate?


----------



## Zak Rafik

Carl Whitbread said:


> when I placed my purigen bag into my filter and switched my filter on I noticed some clouding. I did not worry about it too much but within 4 hours had list 50% of my fish stock and I had ammonia and everything else going off.


It must have been quite frightful to see your fish dying in front of you.



Carl Whitbread said:


> Instead clean it with Hydrogen Peroxide which is also good at getting rid of BBA


You mean clean the inline diffuser using Hydrogen Peroxide?if so how do you go about doing that? I did post about this in this forum but sadly no one replied to that. Guess everyone is using bleach!
So what do you use to clean your Purigen now?
Cheers


----------



## foxfish

Did ou manage to get the tube over the threads?
I think it would definitely be worth trying without the blades, you will get more flow and it will be quieter but whether it will be more or less efficient I can't say....


----------



## Zak Rafik

foxfish said:


> Did ou manage to get the tube over the threads?
> I think it would definitely be worth trying without the blades, you will get more flow and it will be quieter but whether it will be more or less efficient I can't say....



Hi foxfish
No, I haven't found the time yet. Maybe in 1 or 2 days time. I'll definitely try that before getting any connection nozzle.

The reason I asked about taking out the blades was that the Seara reactor looks very similar to a cerges reactor which has also no moving parts.

Have a nice weekend.
Cheer


----------



## Carl Whitbread

Zak Rafik said:


> It must have been quite frightful to see your fish dying in front of you.
> 
> It was dreadful and I can not believe I recited so many swear words in such a short time.
> 
> You mean clean the inline diffuser using Hydrogen Peroxide?if so how do you go about doing that? I did post about this in this forum but sadly no one replied to that. Guess everyone is using bleach!
> So what do you use to clean your Purigen now?
> Cheers


My inline has a removeable cermaic so I take mine out and spray it with hydrogen and then soak it. As for bleach no way will I ever use that mehtod ever again and as for the purigen I will just replace it when it is exhausted. The bad thing is that I read on other forums (cant recall which ones now) about people having similar problems when using bleach with purigen. I just did not learn from someone elses trauma. I just felt so sorry for ths fish an felt irresponsible but I thought it was clean enough - well we cant see bleach so you will only ever know when you put it back into the filter. ARe you prepared tp take a chance and see all your good bacteria wiped out as well as 50% worth of fish stock. Oh by the way I have stopped using my inline now and have swapped back to my TMC Diffuser. The justy for me is still out on the Sera. I have asked Bhu how he is getting on with it and will wait to see what he says.

The best solution for you may be to just buy another Sera. Was it expensive for you?


----------



## Zak Rafik

Carl Whitbread said:


> My inline has a removeable cermaic so I take mine out and spray it with hydrogen and then soak it. As for bleach no way will I ever use that mehtod ever again and as for the purigen I will just replace it when it is exhausted. The bad thing is that I read on other forums (cant recall which ones now) about people having similar problems when using bleach with purigen. I just did not learn from someone elses trauma. I just felt so sorry for ths fish an felt irresponsible but I thought it was clean enough - well we cant see bleach so you will only ever know when you put it back into the filter. ARe you prepared tp take a chance and see all your good bacteria wiped out as well as 50% worth of fish stock. Oh by the way I have stopped using my inline now and have swapped back to my TMC Diffuser. The justy for me is still out on the Sera. I have asked Bhu how he is getting on with it and will wait to see what he says.
> 
> The best solution for you may be to just buy another Sera. Was it expensive for you?



Ok now it makes sense to me with regards to your inline diffuser. Mine is the type which is glued on both sides. The only option I have to clean the insides would be to inject Hydrogen peroxide solution using a syringe. 

As for Purigen, it seems that it's quite cheap enough for you to replace the whole bag. Unfortunately here it's a bit $$$. 

As for Seara reactor, I'm a DIY kind of guy. I'll try to salvage it as much as possible before retiring it to the trash bin.


----------



## Carl Whitbread

[quote="As for Seara reactor, I'm a DIY kind of guy. I'll try to salvage it as much as possible before retiring it to the trash bin. [/quote]

Good luck with the repair mate  I have seen some suggestions to you on how to fix it so I am sure with a bit of perserverance you may get there. As for Purigen I doubt that I will continue to use it once it is all used up. - I will watch the thread to see how you get on. In the meantime I really wish you the best with the repair and a Happy New Year


----------



## Carl Whitbread

[quote="Mine is the type which is glued on both sides. The only option I have to clean the insides would be to inject Hydrogen peroxide solution using a syringe.[/quote]

Or you could buy the inline cleaner from CO2 Art - Just don't use bleach...


----------



## Zak Rafik

Carl Whitbread said:


> I really wish you the best with the repair and a Happy New Year



Happy New Year to you too.


----------



## mlongpre

I've always used bleach for my diffuser cleaning. I just make sure to have it soaking in new water everyday for over two weeks after using bleach. I also add prime to the water.  I also let it dry out in the middle of the two weeks for a day. Not sure if that helps or not. I also connect it to a spare co2 line and blow it out in clean water with prime.  In case any bleach somehow is stuck in the pores of diffuser, this should help. I do it all within two weeks after bleach cleaning. Never had a problem.


----------



## Zak Rafik

mlongpre said:


> I also connect it to a spare co2 line and blow it out in clean water with prime.



This is exactly what I'm doing now too.

I have also observed that the co2 bubbles tend to be bigger as it exits into the tank when my chiller is on (temp set  to 25c). Once the chiller switches off after 40minutes, the bubbles get more finer. I wonder if this will lead to fluctuation of co2 in the tank.? Comments anyone?
Cheers


----------



## Carl Whitbread

Zak Rafik said:


> This is exactly what I'm doing now too.


Well good luck. I used Prime to clean my Purigen and did the same as above with the cleaning and soaking etc but still had the issue. But hey we are talking about two different products here and Purigen balls cannot be compared to cleaning a Diffuser. Just remember you can not over do the rinsing. 

By the way I have decided to order my Sera after all. I will remember to soak the co2 in hot water first to soften it before I connect it to the Sera so I don't suffer your fate with yours. I have stopped using my Inline and switched to my external TMC Diffuser 1000. By doing this I have eliminated the 7up mist effect but I am not convinced the CO2 is dissolved as good as a reactor. My bubble count must be now about 10 - 12 bps and I am getting a dark green on my drop counter. But my observations on the fish is more important than the colour of fluid in a drop counter and I have installed an airline inside the tank incase I accidentally overdose the CO2. I will keep you updated. It will be very interesting to see the difference between the TMC Diffuser and the Sera. I will be using the same set bps so the comparrison will be interesting to see especially as the TMC was on about £15.

I asked Phu how he was getting on with his Sera but no reply as yet. Perhaps he is away on a lovely holiday somewhere.....


----------



## Zak Rafik

foxfish said:


> So there is still a bit left in place, it is difficult to see exactly what has broken but there is still hope.
> Can you push the co2 line over the threads, you may need to sand off the threads but super glue will bond PVC air line to the reactors plastic very well. The other option is to fill the hole and feed to co2 into the main flow or even into the pump inlet.



Ok I managed to find the time to fix the Sera reactor 1000. 
I'll be connecting the reactor maybe this weekend. Hope there'll no leaks.
I also intend to remove the blades inside the reactor and see how it goes.

http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b631/Zak_Rafik/Reactor-fix-01_zpsed3e4325.jpg
http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b631/Zak_Rafik/Reactor-fix-02_zps96104c17.jpg
http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b631/Zak_Rafik/Reactor-fix-03_zps93ed0f4f.jpg
http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b631/Zak_Rafik/Reactor-fix-04_zpse8e2199d.jpg
http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b631/Zak_Rafik/Reactor-fix-05_zps040439c0.jpg


----------



## foxfish

Easy! well done that should work fine.


----------



## ian_m

Cyanoacrylate wont bond to the polyurethane of your CO2 tubing or in fact any plastic that is flexible, so polythene and polypropylene are included as well.

Best solution would be no glue and stainless steel jubilee clip.


----------



## foxfish

It will bond PVC. Best try and pull it off to see how well it has stuck.


----------



## ian_m

foxfish said:


> It will bond PVC.


Yes, but only rigid PVC.


----------



## foxfish

Here you go... only the slightest dab of glue and with just a 1mm of bonding area ... not even over the barb.....


----------



## ian_m

OK, the tubing is not likely one of those plastics I mentioned. Polythene and polypropylene are certainly a no go with superglue (as are most plastics with added plasticiser) and flexible PVC and polyurethane are a "not recommended", but as you have proved, well tested.

Personally I wouldn't use glue, use circlips or jubilee clips so can be easily taken apart for cleaning and/or super glue strength demonstrations....


----------



## Zak Rafik

ian_m said:


> Cyanoacrylate wont bond to the polyurethane of your CO2 tubing or in fact any plastic that is flexible, so polythene and polypropylene are included as well.
> Best solution would be no glue and stainless steel jubilee clip.



Hi ian_m
To tell the truth, I did not even have to use glue. The Co2 hose is very rigid and and was very difficult to push though the nozzle during the dry test. I boiled the hose for 2 minutes just to get it to be supple enough to push through.
But you'r right about the Cyanoacrylate. I got to now about it in my work related project. By the same token, I do have some "soft" plastic tube, very similar to what foxfish showed in his photos. Once bonded it was next impossible to take it apart.
I think ADA's Co2 hose are of similar material. Maybe?



foxfish said:


> Best try and pull it off to see how well it has stuck.


Hi foxfish
I dare not try that. That's how I broke the original nozzle in the first place. I'm pretty sure the fit is quite tight. I'll keep this post updated once I've installed the reactor.


----------



## ian_m

My CO2 hose is clamped to my diffuser using a "10 x 6mm MIKALOR" clamp (search Ebay, 2 cost me 99p inc P&P, meant for car fuel pipes), along with the 22mm water pipes clamped with jubilee clips.


----------



## Zak Rafik

ian_m said:


> My CO2 hose is clamped to my diffuser using a "10 x 6mm MIKALOR" clamp (search Ebay, 2 cost me 99p inc P&P, meant for car fuel pipes), along with the 22mm water pipes clamped with jubilee clips.


Fantastic piece of info. Thanks.
I'll keep this in my mind but I pray that I won't need these when the reactor is put into action.


----------



## Bhu

Ok its been a while since I put an update on this reactor so here goes. It still works fine (or does it?  I've now gone back to my Intense (soon to be stronger version of UP) diffusor. I've have nothing but bad BBA and now hair algae since this co2 diffusor went in. When I used the UP inline I never got this algae. So my issues so far... Its really hard almost impossible to keep the co2 constant with this reactor. Its had its own external pump up to 2000l/h and after a few days the flow starts to drop as moss and debris build on the outlet pre-filter. It doesn't take long for the co2 peddles to stop flowing round at all as well. As for the co2 where does it go!? I have to feed a huge amount into this sera 1000 to get the co2 drop checker to show the colour I want I mean huge amount its literally a constant stream or line of co2 going into it. Where as the inline UP or Intense I can count the bubbles quite accurately as they are maybe 1 or 2 a second max to get the same colour change. Using the sera my plant growth has been only ok not optimal compared to the UP where it was rapid and lush with very little BBA. Also with the UP the 7 UP effect does help reassure that the tank is being fed co2 with the sera no bubbles=guess work. There definitely was no leaks as I tested it on 3 different occasions and leaks were the reason I left the UP behind. The sera 1000 is a great idea why its not working for me I don't know. It has had a ton of co2 pumped into it used up 2kg in 6 weeks on 150 ltr tank which is nearly twice as much as the UP used and with no amazing results either! So where did that co2 go to? Its clear with the UP where it is and where it travels in the tank. So I have taken the extra flow off=less pipes in the tank=  and added the Intense inline using my eheim canister which so far is showing very good results on the co2 levels via the DC also the plants are pearling more visibly now too! I will be changing the intense for the UP as soon as my 16/20 ends arrive for the hardened body I got from CO2 Art to test out. Once this is working fine I will keep in 2 or 3 ceramics and rotate them regularly to keep a good level of diffusion at all times. Before one ceramic would last 2 to 4 weeks which is fine for me I can work with that. The sera needed cleaning out on a similar level too but didn't give me constant co2 levels during that running time whereas the UP did. I've had a huge amount of crypt melt and BBA since using the sera 1000 I'm not blaming it maybe my running of it but I will run the UP for 6 weeks then see the difference and report back. I'm not dissing the sera but I'm really not that happy with the results especially with the price the set up cost £40 for sera1000 £80 for eheim external pump  well live and learn all will be well in the end  will report back in 6 weeks


----------



## Zak Rafik

Hi Bhu, 
What a coincidence! I was just about to message you to ask for your update on the Co2 reactor. I was thinking about your reactor's outcome since yesterday. My goodness!! I do have strong telepathic power



Bhu said:


> . Its really hard almost impossible to keep the co2 constant with this reactor





Bhu said:


> I have to feed a huge amount into this sera 1000 to get the co2 drop checker to show the colour I want I mean huge amount its literally a constant stream or line of co2 going into it.



Oops! Not a good outcome! Sorry to hear about your bad experience. Recently I read on many forums where fish hobbyist are experiencing the same problem with their DIY Cerges' Reactor ( similar to Sera's reactor ). It's always about getting the DC to be lime green before lights on. And I know by the time we get the reactor's Co2 output to a fine art, the tank has become an algae farm. Then we panic and resort to all kinds of actions which can make the tank's damage more worst. I have experienced this when my tank's inline diffuser started to clog up and I resorted to the Sear 1000 reactor. The reactor started to leak and now I'm back on the inline diffuser. But the beauty of my tank has never been reversed till now. I've lost many plants and the original scape my of tank is gone.



Bhu said:


> Its had its own external pump up to 2000l/h and after a few days the flow starts to drop as moss and debris build on the outlet pre-filter.


I did not take this into consideration when you installed the pump. A very important point to note.



Bhu said:


> price the set up cost £40 for sera1000 £80 for eheim external pump


Having a planted tank can sometimes be an expensive hobby.

Now that I have read your feedback and experience, I not so sure about installing my reactor now. Your post has come at a crucial time. I was about to install it in my tank tomorrow as my tank is clearly showing signs of Co2 or flow shortage.

Anyway I sincerely hope that your tank regains its former beauty.

Cheers.


----------



## Bhu

I will post a picture later, it still looks lovely but I had to cut a lot away yesterday to take a lot of the BBA & Hair Algae away. One of the issues having the discus is that all the shrimp hide and never come out to eat the dam algae which was the reason to put them in there in the first place! In my low tech tank the shrimp are out all the time now the discus are out and in the high tech! They must be real predators! I'm sure that the shrimp are in the high tech still as there are loads of places to hide and if they survived them in the low tech with less places to hide I'm sure they are still in there!
Well here is a picture with the 7 UP effect back 




 

the moss roots are now lower which is better for the fish as more room to swim. My fat SAE is useless as yours was! Just eats the fish food! I would have to starve the tank to get him to eat all that BBA and that's not fair to the discus as they love their food!


----------



## Zak Rafik

Bhu said:


> Well here is a picture with the 7 UP effect back


Well as they say "when life gives you lemons, make lemonade".


----------



## foxfish

It could be worth trying without the blades ... it might work ? You will get more flow but maybe some bubbles as well?


----------



## Zak Rafik

foxfish said:


> It could be worth trying without the blades ... it might work ? You will get more flow but maybe some bubbles as well?



I was planning to hook up the reactor to my Eheim 2080 (1700 Ltr/hour). Bhu has a pump 2000 Ltr/hour dedicated just for the reactor and yet he had problems. I'm now not so sure if my 2080 can provide enough flow to the reactor. The 1700 Ltr/hour flow rate stated by Eheim must be without the filter media and filter wools. So I can safely assume the the flow rate will be much lower. Your opinion please. Thanks.


----------



## Bhu

Zak Rafik said:


> I was planning to hook up the reactor to my Eheim 2080 (1700 Ltr/hour). Bhu has a pump 2000 Ltr/hour dedicated just for the reactor and yet he had problems. I'm now not so sure if my 2080 can provide enough flow to the reactor. The 1700 Ltr/hour flow rate stated by Eheim must be without the filter media and filter wools. So I can safely assume the the flow rate will be much lower. Your opinion please. Thanks.


The problem I had was that the wire mesh over the inlet tube soon got blocked with tank debris more so than my Eheim prefilter. Probably due to the high flow rate to start with sucking everything to it. Unless I kept vigilant of this the flow did drop drastically with this build up. Also the cyano brown bacteria build up in the reactor itself messed with the flow of the wheels and being as it is much simpler to clean the UP inline with a new ceramic while the dirty one cleans out that is now the path I have chosen. So far the DC is great in colour and much more constant. Yes my flow is less but the plants grew great before I added the extra flow. Also note that the extra flow didn't stop a build up of hair and BB algae.

The key is keeping the conditions constant and I found this a real challenge with the sera. By going back to the UP now that it's been UP-graded  reduces my work load on the tank and hopefully creates more favourable conditions for plant growth. Also the work needed is much easier, cleaning out the sera 1000 although easy to do is a real hassle to disconnect it whereas the UP is very simple and less fragile. The only downside is the 7 UP effect but it's really not that bad! To be honest and experimentally is helpful as is shows the co2 movement through the tank.

I initially ran my sera off my eheim which was adequate, I only added the extra eheim external pump to add extra flow as text book states more flow= more success. My next experiment to use less flow again and see if I can create better looking plants again as they were before the changes.

I will check in again in a few weeks with my progress.

Afternote: what really baffles me to this day is just how much co2 I had to pump into the sera 1000 to get the same DC colour as the UP produces with just 3bps. The sera had a constant line of co2 gas and was impossible to count the bps but it did use a 2-3 month supply of gas (2kg) in less than 6 weeks! The UP has 3 times the running pressure than the sera 1000 so maybe that had something to do with it? If anyone can shed light on this part Id be grateful. There was 100% no leaks.


----------



## Zak Rafik

Bhu said:


> By going back to the UP now that it's been UP-graded


That's a good one.



Bhu said:


> To be honest and experimentally is helpful as is shows the co2 movement through the tank.


Yes, that's true.



Bhu said:


> what really baffles me to this day is just how much co2 I had to pump into the sera 1000 to get the same DC colour as the UP produces with just 3bps. The sera had a constant line of co2 gas and was impossible to count the bps but it did use a 2-3 month supply of gas (2kg) in less than 6 weeks!


I had the same issue. I started the Co2 to the reactor 4 hours before lights on and yet get a green only on the DC.



Bhu said:


> If anyone can shed light on this part Id be grateful.


Me too. I'm sure there are some Co2 experts / gurus  in this forum who can "enlighten" us.


----------



## Chris Jackson

I'm no CO2 guru but I have a theory that with an atomiser some pure CO2 gas can enter a drop checker by virtue of the tiny bubbles everywhere and give a hi reading whereas with a reactor it is only measuring what is actually dissolved in the water. 

If plants actually prefer or have better access to CO2 direct from saturated water then this could explain many of the issues people have with leaves melting and algae even with pale green to yellow drop checkers?


----------



## Bhu

Chris Jackson said:


> I'm no CO2 guru but I have a theory that with an atomiser some pure CO2 gas can enter a drop checker by virtue of the tiny bubbles everywhere and give a hi reading whereas with a reactor it is only measuring what is actually dissolved in the water.



This makes sense!




Chris Jackson said:


> If plants actually prefer or have better access to CO2 direct from saturated water then this could explain many of the issues people have with leaves melting and algae even with pale green to yellow drop checkers?



But this I don't understand. I would have thought that if plants are happier then it would be less likely they melt or get algae growing on them?


----------



## Chris Jackson

Bhu said:


> This makes sense!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But this I don't understand. I would have thought that if plants are happier then it would be less likely they melt or get algae growing on them?



Ah, what I'm suggesting is that the micro bubbles of CO2 are giving a falsely high reading in the drop checker and that the actual water saturation level could be much lower. If submersed plants adapt primarily to absord CO2 from a liquid, as in water,  rather than as a gas (after all it would seem very unlikely that you'd find CO2 atomised water in nature) then it could be that some plants struggle in spite of all the CO2 bubbles passing by because the level of pure CO2 saturation in the water is still actually much lower than it appears from PH readings.


----------



## Chris Jackson

I could be talking complete nonsense of course because many seem to be having far better results with a diffuser.....


----------



## Bhu

Well I get better results with the diffusors compared to the reactors.


----------



## Andy Thurston

Chris Jackson said:


> I'm no CO2 guru but I have a theory that with an atomiser some pure CO2 gas can enter a drop checker by virtue of the tiny bubbles everywhere and give a hi reading whereas with a reactor it is only measuring what is actually dissolved in the water.
> 
> If plants actually prefer or have better access to CO2 direct from saturated water then this could explain many of the issues people have with leaves melting and algae even with pale green to yellow drop checkers?


I disagree, but im no co2 guru either. my ph meter backs up what my drop checker tells me, although the dc is 3hours late. My hang on dc is yellow because its near the surface if i put one near the substrate i reackon it would be not so yellow. I think that the micro bubbles give a much larger contact area with the water so you get a faster ph drop. I think the reactor is not as good at dissolving co2 and surface agitation gasses off the co2 nearly as quick as the reactor dissolves it, resulting in a slower ph drop compared to the inline. 
Just my theory


----------



## Bhu

Sounds more like what happens tbh...


----------



## Zak Rafik

@Bhu @Big clown @Chris Jackson



Chris Jackson said:


> I have a theory that with an atomiser some pure CO2 gas can enter a drop checker by virtue of the tiny bubbles everywhere and give a hi reading whereas with a reactor it is only measuring what is actually dissolved in the water.


The very reason I wanted to switch to a reactor from an inline diffusers. I thought that same theory as you did. But it was not so.
My DC which was placed at the opposite end of the spray bar and in between substrate and water surface. The  DC showed gas build up. It was showing a lime green.
I wanted to confirm the DC's colour indication and so I moved it to the same side as the spray bar. Although there was no gas buildup, the DC was still showing the same lime green. Please see photo below taken this morning.



Big clown said:


> my ph meter backs up what my drop checker tells me, although the dc is 3hours late. My hang on dc is yellow because its near the surface if i put one near the substrate i reackon it would be not so yellow. I think that the micro bubbles give a much larger contact area with the water so you get a faster ph drop.


Your DC turning yellow, so I assume you're using an in line diffuser? My DC is lime green when the light turns on and yet I'm having BBA and thread algae and my Limnophila aromatica 'hippuroides'  are struggling to grow..


http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b631/Zak_Rafik/IMG_1456_zpse66a8ed6.jpg


----------



## Andy Thurston

Yes, i'm using an inline
I think stability is the key as mentioned earlier in the thread. If i dont keep my tank topped up to the same level surface agitation increases leading to unstable/reduced co2 in the tank and bba blooms
Its a tricky game this co2 business


----------



## Zak Rafik

Big clown said:


> Its a tricky game this co2 business


Yes Sir. You nailed it.




Big clown said:


> same level surface agitation increases leading to unstable/reduced co2 in the tank and bba blooms


Since I'm using a chiller set at 25c, the rate of evaporation is quite low and even then I do try to keep the water level to the maximum. I notice if my spray bar and power head is pointing horizontally ( my current position), I notice much water surface movement and if I adjust it to say about 10 to 15 degrees lower, the agitation is reduced by half. Yet I have read in this forum many a times to keep the spray bars pointing straight.

After much thought, I think I'll postpone my Sera reactor installation for some time. Once my tank is stable, I'll see how.


----------



## Chris Jackson

I had some issues with algae on my latest scape where I was using just the filter as a reactor so I got a 'New' UP atomiser. It was very easy to get a good PH profile with this but it didn't seem to help much with the algae and frankly I hate the 7Up effect...plants pearling is all the bubbles I need.

So in looking for an alternative and having perused this thread a little I decided against the Sera reactor and built a modified pumped Cerges style reactor with a bio ball chamber that is connected inline to the outlet of the main filter (I rather like making stuff). Great performance, algae in severe decline, very happy plants, crystal clear water and no 7up micro bubbles but it does use 3-4 bubbles per sec compared to 2-3 with the atomiser in my 80lt tank. So this result just had me wondering whether a reactor is a better method in principle and I did find one US web site claiming this but of course they were promoting and selling their own brand reactor....  I can't find that site now.


----------



## kirk

My reactor will not go back on my tank EVER, you have described all the things which drover me mad, I had a constant stream of bubbles too fed into ours. Now I've gone back to an in tank diffuser plants are growing.  I got sick of the algae the noise the loss of live stock loss of plants, and flow reduction. I'd rather see bubbles and plants than a lifeless tank. I've tried everything even almost destroyed my filter messing around putting it on the inlet.   Best plant mass I ever had was with an up inline.


----------



## Chris Jackson

kirk said:


> My reactor will not go back on my tank EVER, you have described all the things which drover me mad, I had a constant stream of bubbles too fed into ours. Now I've gone back to an in tank diffuser plants are growing.  I got sick of the algae the noise the loss of live stock loss of plants, and flow reduction. I'd rather see bubbles and plants than a lifeless tank. I've tried everything even almost destroyed my filter messing around putting it on the inlet.   Best plant mass I ever had was with an up inline.



Just goes to show there are many approaches that work! 

For me it's the opposite never again an atomiser....


----------



## kirk

Seems the case chris, I think sometimes it the item and our personal skill levels. I'd still like to have a go at a proper homemade reactor sometime it's the only thing I haven't done.  I can see why people give up and go lowtech.  Have you a picture of your homemade one please.?


----------



## Chris Jackson

Hi Kirk, Yes I think the main issue that is causing so many headaches these days is the trend towards more intense light. I had fewer issues 20 years ago with just T8 lights and a simple bubble ladder style CO2 diffuser, kind of of mid-tech perhaps. Anyway here is a photo of my reactor/filter 




 

This is made from a 10" water filter housing and an industrial quality ADA type Iwaki MD10 pump found on eBay. The filter housing is plumbed in reverse so that water enters down the centre where a filter module would normally fit. It just happened that the top section of an old gravel cleaner I had with a piece of pvc tubing on it wedges perfectly into the centre hole and it then also just happened that part of an old Dennerle bubble ladder module I had fitter perfectly into the gravel cleaner top. So the bubble ladder module (this is a just a plastic tube like the gravel cleaner but instead has a grill on the bottom that stops the bio balls from dropping out) is filled with bio balls and the water enters into here along with the CO2 bubbles (injected directly in the water feed tube via a T connector) the CO2 gets trapped in this tube amongst the bio balls and absorbs into the water. I drilled a couple of 1mm holes in the top of the gravel cleaner fitting to allow the excess gas that builds up to escape automatically. I wanted it to be very simple for easy maintenance and leak protection, if you Google about you'll find some other very efficient "double venturi" designs that recirculate the gas build and others that have a vent tube to allow you to manually release the gas. Many options...

I like that my one is an independent pumped unit that increases the flow from my Eheim Experience filter. The 700ltr/hour Ehiem was actually delivering 288 lt/hr from a freshly rinsed filter (I weighed a minutes worth into a bucket) with this reactor connected inline from the outflow of the Eheim I get 440ltr/hr. The Iwaki pump (Rated at 660l/hr) is a powerful 35watts and very hot to the touch but feels wonderfully robust and there is little flow reduction between filter cleans and no 7UP!


----------



## terry82517

Wow looks impressive chris, very ingenious. 

Any more pics?


----------



## Chris Jackson

terry82517 said:


> Wow looks impressive chris, very ingenious.
> 
> Any more pics?



Thanks, clean up day tomorrow so I'll take some more then.


----------



## pepedopolous

Big clown said:


> I think stability is the key as mentioned earlier in the thread. If i dont keep my tank topped up to the same level surface agitation increases leading to unstable/reduced co2 in the tank and bba blooms


Bingo. I'm thinking about getting an ATO for this reason. Just need to work out how much water I lose per week through evaporation...

P


----------



## Zak Rafik

Chris Jackson said:


> Great performance, algae in severe decline, very happy plants, crystal clear water and no 7up micro bubbles but it does use 3-4 bubbles per sec compared to 2-3 with the atomiser in my 80lt tank.


Hi Chris.
I see your tank is a 80lt and so could this be the reason that your reactor is able to supply enough dissolved Co2 and the pump provide the much needed flow inside the reactor?
My tank is a 285 lt ( actual measured amount of water ). When I tried with Sear reactor, the bubble count was insane and yet the DC was green only.
If I were to try a setup something like yours, would I be needing a more powerful pump?

What is your Co2 and light timing like?



Chris Jackson said:


> The 700ltr/hour Eheim was actually delivering 288 lt/hr from a freshly rinsed filter (I weighed a minutes worth into a bucket) with this reactor connected inline from the outflow of the Eheim I get 440ltr/hr.


I think my Eheim 2080 ( manufacturer's flow rate 1700lt/hr) would not be able to give the flow with a reactor connected for a 285lt tank.

Awaiting your tank's photos and setups.
Cheers.


----------



## Chris Jackson

Zak Rafik said:


> Hi Chris.
> I see your tank is a 80lt and so could this be the reason that your reactor is able to supply enough dissolved Co2 and the pump provide the much needed flow inside the reactor?
> My tank is a 285 lt ( actual measured amount of water ). When I tried with Sear reactor, the bubble count was insane and yet the DC was green only.
> If I were to try a setup something like yours, would I be needing a more powerful pump?
> 
> What is your Co2 and light timing like?
> 
> 
> I think my Eheim 2080 ( manufacturer's flow rate 1700lt/hr) would not be able to give the flow with a reactor connected for a 285lt tank.
> 
> Awaiting your tank's photos and setups.
> Cheers.


----------



## Chris Jackson

Whoops..pushed the wrong button...



Zak Rafik said:


> Hi Chris.
> I see your tank is a 80lt and so could this be the reason that your reactor is able to supply enough dissolved Co2 and the pump provide the much needed flow inside the reactor?
> My tank is a 285 lt ( actual measured amount of water ). When I tried with Sear reactor, the bubble count was insane and yet the DC was green only.
> If I were to try a setup something like yours, would I be needing a more powerful pump?
> 
> What is your Co2 and light timing like?
> 
> 
> I think my Eheim 2080 ( manufacturer's flow rate 1700lt/hr) would not be able to give the flow with a reactor connected for a 285lt tank.
> 
> Awaiting your tank's photos and setups.
> Cheers.



Hi Zak,

I think that for a larger tank you'd be better off running two filters with your Ehiem 2080 proving flow and filtration and a smaller less powerful reactor filter/pump providing CO2 duty. The longer the CO2 is in contact with the water the better is will absorb so to me it makes sense to have slower rate of flow through a reactor for more dwell time. Then this highly enriched water can mix with the rest in the tank and waste less CO2. My old tank is 400ltr and I ran it for many years with two filters with the smaller Eheim 2026 serving double duty as a reactor with the CO2 being bubbled directly into the inlet at 2 bubbles per sec did the job to create this but CO2 level was only around 25ppm. 


 

The journal link in my signature will tell you more about my current setup but in brief it's powered but an Aquasky 602 and I'd say it was this level of lighting that gave me problems. I've  now got a dimmer fitted to one bank. The tank gets a fair bit of ambient light but first light comes on a 14:00 at about ⅔ rd power and then its 17:00 till 19:00 with the second light on full as well then back to the first light until 20:00 and lights off. I'm increasing the bright period by 15mins a week at the moment as I recover from my algae drama.

Water is KH5 and a 8:00 the ph is 6.89 and drops to 6.27 by 14:00 and stays about there until 19:00. CO2 comes on at 08:30 and off at 19:00. I stood a glass of tank water for 24hours and it's PH measured at 7.6 so theoretically I've got over 80ppm of CO2 which seems a tad radical but the fish and shrimp are happy enough. I also have a surface skimming type out flow so there is a lot of gas exchange.

Here are some more reactor photos:


 
CO 2 enters via blue t piece on Ehiem outlet and passes to Inner chamber full of ¾ inch balls


 
The pump


 

The tank this evening after a heavy trim


----------



## Zak Rafik

Hi Chris,

Fantastic set-up.
Awesome tank.
Most of all, thank you for taking the time and effort to take the photos and posting them here. I sure this will be an inspiration many fish hobbyist.
This is the thing I love about this forum. You guys are so humble and not brag about your tank but when prodded further, I discover a treasure trove of USEFUL information.



Chris Jackson said:


> you'd be better off running two filters with your Ehiem 2080 proving flow and filtration and a smaller less powerful reactor filter/pump providing CO2 duty.


Yes infact that is what I have now. An Eheim 2080 for filtration and inline Co2 diffusion purpose and an Eheim 600 attached to an Eheim UV and a chiller.



Chris Jackson said:


> The longer the CO2 is in contact with the water the better is will absorb so to me *it makes sense to have slower rate of flow through a reactor for more dwell time.*


That's what I thought too when I fixed the reactor to my Eheim 600 (model:2075 with a stated flow rate of 1250lt/hr). The Co2 gas started to build up build and even when the lights were off, there was still lots remaining Co2 inside the reactor. It would take more than 2 hours after lights went off.



Chris Jackson said:


> My old tank is 400ltr and I ran it for many years with two filters with the smaller Eheim 2026 serving double duty as a reactor with the CO2 being bubbled directly into the inlet at 2 bubbles per sec did the job to create this but CO2 level was only around 25ppm


What! A 400lt tank with 2 BPS? Must have been a low or mid light tank I suppose.
I'm now pumping in Co2 like crazy ( finishing a 5lt Co2 canister in 35 to 45 days), my DC is lime green and YET have plants melting away, BBA, GSA in the tank. I strongly suspect my Eheim filters' actual flow is not what is claimed by the manufacturer. I think it can be 1/3 less flow and even worse and contribute to less flow and distribution of Co2 for the plants.

I noticed that in the second photo ( the one with the view of your cabinet), you've hooked up your Co2 tube to the output hose of your canister filter via a T shaped connector and this hose goes into the reactor with a pump. Won't this setup spoil your filter's internal pump in the long term? Won't this create an uneven pressure inside the filter?

BTW your glass spray bar is out this world. I've never seen one like it before. What brand is that? Can you please provide the manufacturer's website/details? Thanks.

I will certainly take a look at your journal.
Cheers.


----------



## Crossocheilus

Zak Rafik said:


> What! A 400lt tank with 2 BPS? Must have been a low or mid light tank I suppose.
> I'm now pumping in Co2 like crazy ( finishing a 5lt Co2 canister in 35 to 45 days), my DC is lime green and YET have plants melting away, BBA, GSA in the tank.



I'm having the exact same experience  I just don't understand...


----------



## ian_m

Zak Rafik said:


> I'm now pumping in Co2 like crazy ( finishing a 5lt Co2 canister in 35 to 45 days), my DC is lime green and YET have plants melting away, BBA, GSA in the tank. I strongly suspect my Eheim filters' actual flow is not what is claimed by the manufacturer. I think it can be 1/3 less flow and even worse and contribute to less flow and distribution of Co2 for the plants.


Using a JBL bubble counter I have 1-2bps, for 180 litre tank use 2Kg in about 100days and drop checker is more yellow than green. Only times I have ever had fast bubble rate, blue/green drop checker and used 2Kg in once 60days and other time 23day is when I had CO2 leaks. Yes I thought, my CO2 system is 100% gas tight, can't be leaking, I have checked I don't know how many times, despite every one on the forum saying you have CO2 issues. Well finally dunked all the CO2 setup in a bucket of water, that is everything to from regulator out to in-line diffuser and found one time drop checker plastic had crazed and was leaking. Another time leaking at joint at top of drop checker, another from connectors at top of drop checker another finally leaking from a seam in one way valve and finally from connector where there was a fine score line on CO2 tubing leaking past the seal..... So bought expensive JBL drop checker, expensive one way valve, replacement CO2 tubing and fitted all together, checked for leaks, nothing.... and found that 1bps in 180l tank drop checker was green heading yellow everywhere in the tank.. DONE.


----------



## Chris Jackson

Crossocheilus said:


> I'm having the exact same experience  I just don't understand...



Yes its strange but true however the tank was also fed by a continuos drip of rainwater and I imagine that would have been adding some CO2 as well . That tank was run on an auto PH CO2 controller (the same one as in the picks above that is now only measuring PH) and set to keep PH at 6.65ish. The tank was powered by 4 x 55w T5's and two 150w HQI BUT it was a 10 hour period with just two t5 on for the first 2 hours then 4 for the next 3 hours then the HQI as well for the next 2 hours then back to 4 and then 2 for the last hour. So highly lit for a couple of hours only.... after a year or so I tired of all the maintenance and switched off the HQI's for an easier life ....

Coming to this forum some months back I was surprised by this new constant obsession with CO2 and flow...it just hadn't been an issue for me at all previously. However when i started this new small tank which is intended to be a high power number I began to run into the same problems and addressing CO2 does seem to have alleviated them... I hated the look from the atomiser (having never had to live with this previously) so set about this reactor...


----------



## Chris Jackson

Thanks!


> I noticed that in the second photo ( the one with the view of your cabinet), you've hooked up your Co2 tube to the output hose of your canister filter via a T shaped connector and this hose goes into the reactor with a pump. Won't this setup spoil your filter's internal pump in the long term? Won't this create an uneven pressure inside the filter?



Well the Iwaki pump has more power than the Ehiem so I just see it as making life easier for the Ehiem pump. I tried removing the impeller from the Ehiem and just using the Iwaki but flow slowed a bit and I figured I could afford the 7 or 8w the Ehiem filter uses so added it back in. I have them connected together mainly so that the tank is less cluttered but also so that the Ehiem pre filters the water into the reactor and stops it clogging.



Zak Rafik said:


> BTW your glass spray bar is out this world. I've never seen one like it before. What brand is that? Can you please provide the manufacturer's website/details? Thanks.





 

Spraybar is another of my DIY numbers made from acrylic tube bought on Ebay the skimmer/outflow is from CO2Art http://www.co2art.co.uk/collections...cts/lily-pipe-surface-skimmer-o17mm-16mm-22mm


----------



## Zak Rafik

Bhu said:


> Well I get better results with the diffusors compared to the reactors.


How is your tank doing? Any updates with regards to Co2?
Cheers


----------



## Bhu

Hi Zak

I've had the (7)UP diffusor on for 2 weeks now. Much less co2 on my bubble count and plants doing great. Zero melt on the crypts so far so I'm thinking the water conditions are more stable. Only draw back 7 UP effect. 

I still have a lot of BBA and hope it will recede. I put some plants into a low tech set up with zero co2 added and the BBA has disappeared on it  so it can go away! Here's hoping! 

How's your set up?


----------



## Carl Whitbread

Hi Zak & Bhu,
Long time no hear from me eh. Well here is my update. I got my sera and still had awful algae problems etc. The Sera had nothing to do with the problem nor did the Up line. I removed the UP inline as I did not want any more 7up but wanted to see more from the tank and just removed all my CO2 equipment, I had finshed with it all and thought plastic plants and air bubbles here I come. Well I did not do that but instead after a few weeks I decided to give it all another go and install everthing again. I extended my spray bar as much as I could to remove any dead spots in the tank. I then reassembled all of my tank equipment and relocated my filter. Before my filter would only fit into my cabinet sideways so I decided to bring the filter out on show instead. This meant drilling holes in my cabinet to relocated the inlet and outlet tubes but a small price to pay. Ok, next I connected the sera and all other bits that go with co2. Then I bought more plants and bascially try to cover as much space as possible. Whilst buying plants I also bought new light tubes as it had been about to years since I last changed them. I trimmed my old plants and set my bubble counter to 3-4 bps then sat back and watched. Well I would like to report that my tank is doing really very well. The one thing to remember is not to get too involved with light. I have learnt that part of the success with co2 is good circulation and balanced co2 e.g. bps set at a rate and notconstantly changed by the user. The filter that I am now using is the JBL Cristalprofi e1501 greenline which has a reported 1400 lph. Some may say its over kill and it will support upto 600 l tank and my tank is only 180l but hey this solution works very well for me and I see encouraging results and with no 7up effect. Oh one thing I also forgot to mention was that I had stopped using RO and had gone back to UK tap water. The water where I live in the UK is hard water but the quality is good and drinkable (PH 7.3 and a KH of 6) so no need for me to continue with RO so I had changed the water gradually back to tap water over a number of weeks. I no longer get any major PH swings or crashes and my seneye reports healthy temp, amon, etc. My drop checker is a nice healthy green. Yes my plants do pearl but not on a major scale but for me but they do produce very large bubbles. My first priority is always to ensure my fish are happy. Other priorities are to ensure that my dc are green (I have two different spots adnd height of tank) and for now my tank appears to be well balanced. I have less algae (as the plants are taking all the nutrients) and a nice clean looking tank. I am sure that is all that I did but if my memory is jogged I will give more information. My tip of the day - Don't make things overly complicated


----------



## Carl Whitbread

Zak Rafik said:


> How is your tank doing? Any updates with regards to Co2?
> Cheers


I have done an update for you


----------



## Carl Whitbread

Bhu said:


> Hi Bhu,
> I have done an update for you


----------



## Bhu

Tnx


----------



## kirk

Did I just read a sentence with the words plastic plants in it.?  That's when you will need algae......



To cover the hideous things.


----------



## Crossocheilus

Carl Whitbread said:


> JBL Cristalprofi e1501 greenline which has a reported 1400 lph. Some may say its over kill and it will support upto 600 l tank and my tank is only 180l



I use 2 of the same filter on the same tank, its not overkill by any means. What you use is actually less than the recommended 10x turnover, but that doesn't mean it can't work for you.


----------



## Zak Rafik

Bhu said:


> Hi Zak
> 
> I've had the (7)UP diffusor on for 2 weeks now. Much less co2 on my bubble count and plants doing great. Zero melt on the crypts so far so I'm thinking the water conditions are more stable. Only draw back 7 UP effect.
> 
> I still have a lot of BBA and hope it will recede. I put some plants into a low tech set up with zero co2 added and the BBA has disappeared on it  so it can go away! Here's hoping!
> 
> How's your set up?


Hi Bhu,
Nice to hear you've good progress. I hope you'll succeed very soon. As for BBA, give them some time and I'm sure they'll be gone.

As for my tank, long story short,  I WAS struggling to get enough Co2 into my tank. No matter how much I pumped in, that darn DC refused to budge.
You can take a look in this post : Can an external canister filter be run with a separate pump? 

Notice I said WAS and not IS. I have completely switched over to a new system which I think is giving me some positive results. I'll post the details after I see some further concrete outcome. I don't want to confuse the readers here any further.
As for the Sera reactor, I don't think I'll use it again. It's too much of a hassle.

I was on the verge of giving up on this hobby but luckily I managed to trouble shoot after some serious one to one chat ( 2 hours long) with my LFS friends here. God bless them.

I'll post some photos here of my tank in a few weeks time and also of the new setup.
Cheers.


----------



## Zak Rafik

Hi, Carl,


Carl Whitbread said:


> I did not want any more 7up


Don't get too hung up on this 7UP thing. If we want healthy plants and fish, we must give up something.



Carl Whitbread said:


> I had finished with it all and thought plastic plants and air bubbles here I come.


At least you thought plastic plants. I thought of selling off my tank and all and have nothing to do with it for ever. I was that frustrated with the problems in my tank. As you can read from the above post. I'm seeing the light at the end of tunnel finally.



Carl Whitbread said:


> Well I would like to report that my tank is doing really very well.


Fantastic. I'm glad for you.



Carl Whitbread said:


> The one thing to remember is not to get too involved with light. I have learnt that part of the success with co2 is good circulation and balanced co2 e.g. bps set at a rate and notconstantly changed by the user


You nailed it.
Might I also add : "one should not get too involved with DC colour change". Now I look at plant's reaction, fish reaction and lastly DC colour reaction to any Co2 changes I make.
I guess no matter how much we read or how much advice we're given, nothing beats some good old experience, (am I sounding like your grandparents )



Carl Whitbread said:


> My tip of the day - Don't make things overly complicated


My word, You sound like a ZEN master! 

Post some photos of your tank. I'm interested to see them.
Cheers.


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## oviparous

Hello,

For all the people who's reactor broke off, like me.
Just send a email to Sera with a picture of the broken bit and a proof of purchase (receipt or bank transfer).
If the reactor is not older than 2 years, they will send you a replacement (just the top)  for free.
I received mine a few days after i send the email.


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## Zak Rafik

oviparous said:


> Hello,
> For all the people who's reactor broke off, like me.
> Just send a email to Sera with a picture of the broken bit and a proof of purchase (receipt or bank transfer).
> If the reactor is not older than 2 years, they will send you a replacement (just the top)  for free.
> I received mine a few days after i send the email.



Hi, Thanks for the great tip.
Is it through the Sera main website? : http://www.sera.de/en/sera-service/company/contact.html
I wonder if this service is available for Asian countries?

Any photos of your reactor in action?

Cheers.


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## Bhu

Zak Rafik said:


> As for the Sera reactor, I don't think I'll use it again. It's too much of a hassle.


 
+1 on that! Was lovely to see the tank free of fine co2 bubbles but the sera is a pita. Needed cleaning to often, a separate pump and took way too much co2 (pps) for some reason.


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## oviparous

Zak Rafik said:


> Hi, Thanks for the great tip.
> Is it through the Sera main website? : http://www.sera.de/en/sera-service/company/contact.html
> I wonder if this service is available for Asian countries?
> 
> Any photos of your reactor in action?
> 
> Cheers.



Yep, did it through the website.
Don't have a clue about Asian countries..

I actually don't use the reactor any more.
When the reactor broke, and had to wait for the replacement, i put the CO2 tube in the filter inlet. And more than six months later, it's still there. I did have to up the bps about 1/3 to get the same pH drop.
When i switched from an Eheim prof 2226 to Eheim prof3 250,  the influence of the reactor was much greater, although both have the same output. So when the reactor broke i had my flow back, and the CO2 was dissolving. What more can i ask! 
It's a very efficient reactor, but the build quality could be better.


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## Zak Rafik

Bhu said:


> +1 on that! Was lovely to see the tank free of fine co2 bubbles but the sera is a pita. Needed cleaning to often, a separate pump and took way too much co2 (pps) for some reason.


Hi Bhu,
Even though I won't be using the reactor, I'm very curious even now, to know what was that missing link that made the it fail in my tank. I notice reactors are not simple to start up. Allot of factors are interconnected to it. 
Meaning: 
correct number of BPS for Co2.
reduced flow due to the narrow tubes in the reactor.
the correct flow rate from the filter or pump to push the water not too fast nor too slow if not you'll have gas build-up inside the reactor.
start up time for Co2 into reactor before lights on.
etc.......

Yet I have seen some tanks, some planted tank as large as 5 feet running on a single reactor smaller than Sear 1000 and on 4BPS. I guess these people have the Midas touch
BUT I also have observed these guys have a few years of experience in running some sort of fish tank. So who knows, maybe......just maybe, you and I may have some success in the future.
How is the BBA situation?

Cheers


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## Zak Rafik

Hi oviparous


oviparous said:


> When the reactor broke, and had to wait for the replacement, i put the CO2 tube in the filter inlet. And more than six months later, it's still there.


Yeah, I did once try to have the Co2 in the inlet hose but that lead to gas build up inside my chiller's coil. There was also the occasional burping of gas through the spray bars.
As my tank is a 4 feet heavily planted, the gas quantity needed for the plants was too much to handle. I think it would work fine for smaller tanks or moderately planted tanks....maybe?




oviparous said:


> It's a very efficient reactor, but the build quality could be better.


BTW have you noticed that Sear brand reactor and ISTA brand reactors look like long lost twins?
The Co2 nozzel and even the reactor's holder look very identical. So who is manufacturing for who?
http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b631/Zak_Rafik/Sear-n-ISTA-Co2-reactor_zpswwngwnnw.jpg


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## Zak Rafik

Came across this diffuser on the web.
Looks kind of interesting.

http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b631/Zak_Rafik/in tank Co2 diffuser_zpsq9peeb9z.jpg
http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b631/Zak_Rafik/in tank Co2 diffuser ista brand_zps9wispcw5.jpg
photo credit: Goole images


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## Carl Whitbread

Zak Rafik said:


> I thought of selling off my tank and all and have nothing to do with it for ever. I was that frustrated with the problems in my tank. As you can read from the above post. I'm seeing the light at the end of tunnel finally.
> 
> 
> Hey Zak,
> Please, please, please do not consider giving up this hobby. I would happily give you 2 hours of my time and more to talk to you any day.
> 
> Also as a quick update to all my followers out there.. (lol) my BBA has returned with avengance. I realise it must be the high phosphates in my tap water plus the additional phosphates that I am adding in my dry salts mix when I does using EI
> 
> Watch this space some photos will be coming soon.... I promise. Oh yeah, I also love my sera it has been trouble free ... for now.. lol Bu i wonder if that will change once I started the cleaning regime


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## Carl Whitbread

Crossocheilus said:


> I use 2 of the same filter on the same tank, its not overkill by any means. What you use is actually less than the recommended 10x turnover, but that doesn't mean it can't work for you.


You use 2 of them!!!!!! Blimey,  I have to almost turn mine off to feed the fish otherwise they don't get any food. How do you manage with 2?

Also what is your setup for 2? Do you have a filter with no media and a full spray bar for CO2 & Lilly pipes for your filter with media?? 

Do you have any photos that you can post to show your setup?


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## Carl Whitbread

Zak Rafik said:


> Came across this diffuser on the web.
> Looks kind of interesting.
> 
> http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b631/Zak_Rafik/in tank Co2 diffuser_zpsq9peeb9z.jpg
> http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b631/Zak_Rafik/in tank Co2 diffuser ista brand_zps9wispcw5.jpg
> photo credit: Goole images


Buy another Sera instead


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## Carl Whitbread

Bhu said:


> +1 on that! Was lovely to see the tank free of fine co2 bubbles but the sera is a pita. Needed cleaning to often, a separate pump and took way too much co2 (pps) for some reason.


hi Bhu
Are you still using your Sera or have you also removed it & replaced it with the inline?


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## Carl Whitbread

Zak Rafik said:


> Yet I have seen some tanks, some planted tank as large as 5 feet running on a single reactor smaller than Sear 1000 and on 4BPS. I guess these people have the Midas touch
> BUT I also have observed these guys have a few years of experience in running some sort of fish tank. So who knows, maybe......just maybe, you and I may have some success in the future



Thanks for the nice compliment about my tank


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## Carl Whitbread

kirk said:


> Did I just read a sentence with the words plastic plants in it.?  That's when you will need algae......
> 
> 
> 
> To cover the hideous things.


It was a little tongue in cheek humour.  I just nearly got to breaking point and thought take out the live plants and co2 and put in good old plastic plants and an airstone - job done. But hey defeatism is not on my list of options so I recinded and even now can't believe that I even thought about it


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## Carl Whitbread

Have you ever made one of those posts that you then later regret ever making such a cocky post - well it has happened to me. About 4 days ago I had a slight indication of the start of BBA and then all of a sudden my tank is consumed.


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## Carl Whitbread

Bhu said:


> +1 on that! Was lovely to see the tank free of fine co2 bubbles but the sera is a pita. Needed cleaning to often, a separate pump and took way too much co2 (pps) for some reason.


Hi Bhu,
How is your BBA doing now?

I took my plants out and brushed the BBA off with an old toothbrush then sprayed with hydrogen peroxide and let to stand for a few minutes before placing back into the tank. The result for me was yes the BBA has all gone, but after a few days my crypts melted and I have noticeable leaf damage so it my toothbrush method clearly damaged the table of the leaf. I did not have the heart to throw away my crypts. I am now waiting to them to grow back. I have also switched to Tropica fert as I was finding my EI may have been uneffectiev perhaps my dosage wa too weak but since I have started to use Tropica there is a noticeable change in my plants. I just hope that I am not paying for 94% water in the solution


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## Carl Whitbread

Zak Rafik said:


> Came across this diffuser on the web.
> Looks kind of interesting.



Hey Zak,
What you have decided to go for?

I still have my sera 1000 in its box and seriously thinking about selling it as I have gone back to my inlne. My mist is not bad at all perhaps that is because I have a full length spray bar


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## Zak Rafik

Carl Whitbread said:


> Hey Zak,
> What you have decided to go for?
> 
> I still have my sera 1000 in its box and seriously thinking about selling it as I have gone back to my inlne. My mist is not bad at all perhaps that is because I have a full length spray bar


Hi Carl,
Nah, I gave on the reactor thing. I'm using inline diffusers. So far so good.
As for giving up on EI, do some research to find the right balance. All readymade fertz are just 90-95% water. But then if your tank is small, maybe these will be ok but if mid to big sized tanks, it'll get expensive over the long run.

Maybe these links for EI will help you:
http://www.barrreport.com/forum/bar...ndex/2938-ei-light-for-those-less-techy-folks
http://gwapa.org/wordpress/articles/fertilizing-the-planted-aquarium/
and the most easy to understand written by Clive: http://www.ukaps.org/index.php?page=dosing-with-dry-salts

Cheers.


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## Zak Rafik

Carl Whitbread said:


> then sprayed with hydrogen peroxide and let to stand for a few minutes before placing back into the tank.


I don't think any plant out of water can handle hydrogen peroxide direct on its leaves even if for 1/2 a minute. What was the strength of the solution.? 3%, 6%.....?

Even in water, some plants are sensitive. Next time try on a small smaple first.

http://www.malawicichlidhomepage.com/aquainfo/algae_peroxide.html
http://theaquariumwiki.com/Hydrogen_peroxide


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## limz_777

This sera reactor is really not bad, cant even see a single co2 bubble come out, much better then direct feeding into canister


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## Mr.Manjushri

Unfortunately my experience with this reactor was disappointing. I found it didn't fully dissolve the co2 so I still had micro bubbles escaping into the tank. Maybe due to high bubble rate (5-6/sec) and strong flow (eheim 2178/600T). It also reduced my flow by about 50% which was more than I had expected. 
In anycase I've switched back to my Aquamedic 1000 which, although also allows mini bubbles to escape, has much less negative effect on flow.


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## Zak Rafik

Mr.Manjushri said:


> Unfortunately my experience with this reactor was disappointing. I found it didn't fully dissolve the co2 so I still had micro bubbles escaping into the tank. Maybe due to high bubble rate (5-6/sec) and strong flow (eheim 2178/600T). It also reduced my flow by about 50% which was more than I had expected.
> In anycase I've switched back to my Aquamedic 1000 which, although also allows mini bubbles to escape, has much less negative effect on flow.


Hi
What's your tank volume?


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## Mr.Manjushri

100L


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## Bhu

Mr.Manjushri said:


> Unfortunately my experience with this reactor was disappointing. I found it didn't fully dissolve the co2 so I still had micro bubbles escaping into the tank. Maybe due to high bubble rate (5-6/sec) and strong flow (eheim 2178/600T). It also reduced my flow by about 50% which was more than I had expected.
> In anycase I've switched back to my Aquamedic 1000 which, although also allows mini bubbles to escape, has much less negative effect on flow.



Strange... I found this reactor dissolved all the co2 at really high bps, beyond being able to count how many and gave no 7 up effect into my aquarium. My problems were that it need much more co2 than say the UP inline to do the same job and cleaning it was a big hassle which needed to be done once a week to keep the co2 constant. But horses for courses hey!


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## Bhu

BBA as bad as ever


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## REDSTEVEO

Hi All,

I have been reading this thread from start to finish with avid interest, only took me about four hours, especially going back and forward to photobucket to see the photographs.

After reading the first few reviews on this Sera Reactor I was all set to jump on the net, get my credit card out and order the thing triple pronto! I am so glad I read the whole thread, but disappointed to see that everyone is back to square 1, and I am mystified as to where all that Co2 disappeared to!

I too am disappointed with the UP Aqua inline diffuser, it works great for the first week, a nice fine mist at first, and then back to 7 up bubbles and poor Co2 dissolution. I have gone back to my old in tank glass diffuser and put it deep down in the far left corner. Above it in the top left corner is an Aquaclear Powerhead which pumps about 500 litres per hour, but it is not just the power head, I bought the water polishing filter attachment that is designed to go with it. I removed the very fine membrane it comes with and replaced it with a piece of Fluval foam sponge pad which does not get clogged up as quick.

The Co2 rises from the glass diffuser and gets sucked in to the polishing filter up through the impeller in the Powerhead mashed up and blown out around the tank. This is a temporary fix until I can find something better. Plus I have got a huge Amazon Sword plant in the corner which covers everything up nicely.

In the meantime I will keep my eye on this thread to see which genius is going to come up with the next great idea to get around this problem..

That said, I was interested to see the bit about back in the old days, when we had low to virtually no flow and used the old style circular ladder type Co2 diffusers. If you see some of the planted tanks in Germany they still have low flow and use some of the older Co2 diffusers, even some of Jim's tanks at the Green Machine have the same and they look amazing.

I thing we are all getting a bit obsessed over flow rates and spoiling the natural look of our tanks by adding more and more plastic spray bars in my humble opinion.

Cheers,

Steve


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## REDSTEVEO

Hi all,

From my time spent in Germany I got to know the products supplied by Dupla, always dead expensive but there was never any doubt about the quality. Also the first diffuser I bought from Dupla at least 25 years ago, possibly 30, is still available in exactly the same design. That has to mean something, and that is, 'if it ain't broke, don't try and fix it'. I have seen these on eBay from a supplier in Germany, postage is high but I think you can get them from Aquaessentials as well. 

I am thinking of getting the diffuser rather than the reactor. Some pictures in the links below.

Cheers,

Steve


http://www.shopsolution.nl/shop/home.asp?shopid=seameuk&deptid=dupla2

http://www.barrreport.com/forum/bar...n-about-flow-through-diy-external-co2-reactor

http://www.shopsolution.nl/shop/home.asp?shopid=seameuk&deptid=dupla2


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## REDSTEVEO

Hi All,

Some of you have probably researched this to death already, but I found this video on Youtube which made a lot of sense, we probably knew most of it but I think this guy explains a lot even though English is clearly not his first language, he does it really simple with pictures and diagrams showing charts in relation to PH - KH and Co2 dissolution levels. He acknowldges that most of his research is from the Tom Barr report but th ewy he puts it across I thought was really good.




Cheers,

Steve.


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## DjDamo

.


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