# White spot treatment



## Gregory Day (13 Jan 2020)

can anyone recommend a white spot treatment safe with my plants


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## dw1305 (13 Jan 2020)

Hi all, 





Gregory Day said:


> can anyone recommend a white spot treatment safe with my plants


I haven't needed it for a while, but last I did <"eSHa EXIT"> worked pretty well.

cheers Darrel


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## Fisher2007 (14 Jan 2020)

Those that know more than me please correct me if I'm wrong but in my experience all treatments will be ok with plants.  I've never used whitespot treatment with a true planted scape but low tech non CO2 stuff I have without issue

Make sure you remove any carbon or purigen from the filter before treatment as these will remove/render the treatment itself ineffective

And if you've got shrimp or snails you'll need to look very carefully at what treatments you can use as most whitespot treatments contain copper, which will kill inverts


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## MaverickGR (14 Jan 2020)

One of the safest treatments for fish inverts and plants, is metronidazole. You can also find it in your regular pharmacies, as it is also used to treat protozoan (and some bacterial) infections in humans (here it's called Flagyl). Do a small research online to check for dosages etc. It doesn't have very good solubility in water but you can also deliver it with food.


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## Sammy Islam (14 Jan 2020)

I've always used the "king british white spot control" with great results. I think I've used it for 5 courses over the last couple years with it working every time, even with shrimp and corys.


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## Gregory Day (15 Jan 2020)

Thanks


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## tam (15 Jan 2020)

I use the esha-exit (fine for shrimp). Only thing to keep in mind is most treatments will stain silicone.


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## Keith GH (16 Jan 2020)

Here is a lot of very useful information about Ich I strongly suggest you copy and print this out for future reference.
WHITE SPOT ICH
White spot Parasite, _Ichthyophthirius multifiliis_

This disease is easy to recognise, as the skin of the infected fish becomes covered with white spots, each the size of a pinhead.  Each spot represents the site of one, or sometimes two, parasites.  All parts of the body gills, may be attacked.

The causative agent is named Ichthyophthirius_ multifiliis_.  It is a spherical and large by protozoan standards, measuring up to 1mm in diameter.  Short, hair-like processes known as cilia are spread densely over the surface.  A horseshoe-shape nucleus is also present which is clearly visible under the microscope.  

By the means of the cilia the parasite rotates vigorously and burrows into the surface layer (epidermis) of its host.  It feeds on skin cells and surface debris.   The burrowing action causes a local irritation and the epidermis grows across the parasite to enclose it, thus forming a “White Spot”

Reproduction occurs away from the host.   After maturing in the skin, which takes a few days to three weeks, depending on the temperature, the parasite bores out, swims away and comes to rest on a submerged object such as a stone, or plant.   Here it forms a jelly-like cyst within which a series of rapid cell divisions take place.   In a few hours, several hundred daughter cells or swarmers are produced, which break out of the cyst to find a new host.  Alighting on the skin, they burrow in to recommence the life cycle.  If they fail to find a host within three to four days, they perish.

Symptoms
If the protozoan is introduced into a tank containing healthy fish, little harm may occur, other than a fleeting infection with a few parasites.    If however, the fishes are already weakened for some other reason, e.g. lack of oxygen, the parasite will quickly cover the whole body surface, causing irritation and opening up wounds for secondary infections.    The host mobility may become affected.  In severe cases, death may result.

Prevention
If white-spot appears in an otherwise healthy tank, the parasite “must” have been introduced either as an adult on a newly acquired fish or as the cyst form on, for example new stones, a plant or even added water.   The only certain method of prevention, is to quarantine all new stock, including stones, plants etc; preferably in water at a temperature of 77F.  Allow one week’s quarantine.

Treatments
There are too many treatments today to recommend any specific one.   Many can be bought easily at aquarium outlets.

Several very interesting points to think about.

Very easy to recognise.
Its reproduction cycle.
No host they will die.  
If introduced into a healthy tank little harm may occur.
Pay attention to all tank details.
Weakened fish and lack of oxygen can/may and will cause severe deaths.  All this is usually caused by poor tank maintenance and/or incorrect and faulty equipment.

Prevention is the best cure
A Parasite “must” be introduced into the tank.  

Treating the Tank
You might not see any WS after a week BUT it has not all gone and by this I mean the treatment must be continued for at least a total of 3-4 weeks.     This might sound a long time but it will be worth it.

I would still carry out your weekly water changes and when you have completed the tank treatment a 50% of treated water change would help for the next two changes.

Then you can replace or add a carbon filter for at least 2 weeks and toss it out completely.

I have had WS with my CLs and they as well as all fish worth the extra time and effort in removing the Ich.

Finally take all the precautions and try not to get it again

This information was collected from Fresh Water Tropical Fish

Compiled by Keith


TREATING A TANK and Scaleless fish

Clown Loaches and other scaleless fish require a special White Spot cure.    I have seen it said that this is not so just use any WS cure at half strength and that will do.   That is totally wrong even at that strength it will become dangerous.

Only use the "CORRECT" WS cure and only use it at the correct dosage as per instruction on the bottle.   Also check the UBD "Expire Date" to be on the safe side.

Melafix can be used in conjunction with the WS cure it will not cure it at all but it will reduce the stress on the fish.
Now for the treatment.
Only used the prescribed amount and times recommended.
Remove any carbon filters if you are using them.
Add extra air this is beneficial to the tank as well.
Bump up the temp slowly.  By doing this it speeds up the growth rate of the Ich and this kills it quicker.
Turn of the lights if you have a fully planted tank this will not hurt for a few days at all.
Reduce the feeding by 50% they won’t feel like eating any way and you could easily have other problem with the uneaten food.  I would feed them with small amounts of "Frozen Blood Worms" at least 3 time a week this will keep their strength up remember a healthy fish will survive the Ich problem a lot easier.

Treating the Tank
You might not see any WS after a week BUT it has not all gone and by this I mean the treatment must be continued for at least a total of 3-4 weeks.     This might sound a long time but it will be worth it.

I would still carry out your weekly water changes and when you have completed the tank treatment a 50% of treated water change would help for the next two changes.

Then you can replace or add a carbon filter for at least 2 weeks and toss it out completely.

I have had WS with my CLs and they as well as all fish worth the extra time and effort in removing the Ich.

Finally take all the precautions and try not to get it again

Keith


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