# To Drill, or not ?



## webworm (26 Feb 2012)

Having visited several local aquatic retailers. I've begun to wonder if a DIY version of the fluval vicenza is possible, using clear acrylic tubes for the filter inlets and outlets into the tank.

The question is will it simply be to difficult to ensuret that the drilled holes in the bottom of the tank are correctly sealed to prevent leakage?


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## Tom (26 Feb 2012)

You can get fittings that screw together either side of the hole (don't know the technical name!), that you can then slot pipework into. Have a look at some marine tanks that are drilled for sumps.


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## GHNelson (26 Feb 2012)

Hi
I think their called bulkheads.
hoggie


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## webworm (26 Feb 2012)

Is it a good idea ? 
2 holes, or 4. 

I'm looking at a 120x45x45 braceless optiwhite tank.


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## geaves (27 Feb 2012)

You would need a bulkhead fitting of some description, http://www.leisureshopdirect.com/Carava ... tings.aspx similar to what they use in marine setups. The fitting inside the tank is usually sealed with silicone to prevent leakage.


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## webworm (27 Feb 2012)

I've read also that only certain filters support this kind of plumbing arrangement, is this true ? Down to water pressure being increased if taken from the bottom of the tank ?

I've had more details on getting the base of the tank drilled,


> The outside of any hole should not be less than 25mm from the edge of the glass.  If tank connectors are to be used then you should leave approximately 50mm from the edge of the glass to allow room for the tank connector.


Makes sense to me, I'll be looking at using bent clear arcylic for inlets and outlets, and supporting dual filters.


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## geaves (27 Feb 2012)

webworm said:
			
		

> I've read also that only certain filters support this kind of plumbing arrangement, is this true ? Down to water pressure being increased if taken from the bottom of the tank ?



Couldn't comment on that, but I did watch a youtube video about doing just this and not to try and drill tempered glass as it will shatter, and you'll need a diamond drill cutter.


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## foxfish (27 Feb 2012)

You would need to buy some PVC tank connectors but PVC does not glue easily to acrylic.
Any acrylic pipe work need to be removable if you want to keep it clear & clean, might be easier to use clear PVC pipe.
http://www.cityirrigation.co.uk/acatalo ... ector.html


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## webworm (4 Mar 2012)

Does having a drilled bottom actually aid you, sure, you can remove lilly pipes going over the edge of the aquarium, but surely it introduces restrictions on the layouts available for hard scaping, and similarly could dictate plant placement.

I'd appreciate any thoughts on the aesthetics ?


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## Ady34 (4 Mar 2012)

Hi webworm,
ive got a pre drilled studio 900 tank and was bought as such to keep as much pipework hidden from the kids fingers!
However you are adding limitations to scaping and once drilled you cant move the pipework to suit a layout. Bear in mind also if you ever want to change the tanks position within a room, if you drill one side this will be visable from certain angles and may be unsightly.
Advantages though are  not having to prime external filters as gravity does it for you!... and obviously no external plumbing.
Personally id prefer the versatility of a non drilled base in future.
Cheerio,
Ady.


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## webworm (5 Mar 2012)

Thanks for insight.
I think I'm going to abandon the idea of having a drilled tank. 
I've got some ideas, about something different. More details soon.


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## dean (20 Apr 2012)

I've have drilled tanks in my fish house, I've drilled Loads for people. I use tank connectors from a plumbers merchants. You simply but you clear pipes over them, if your going to use a canister filter then there's no problem taking off the pipes to clean them, if you were thinking of using a sump the. You would have to empty the tank prior to removing the clear standpipes for cleaning otherwise your sump would need to be bigger than the tank


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## Aqua sobriquet (20 Apr 2012)

Weirs used to be popular even on freshwater tanks years ago but this still requires drilling and they can be a bugger to keep clean. 

Another option is a HOB overflow:

http://www.cpraquatic.com/products/overflows.html

Or build your own:

http://www.melevsreef.com/acrylics/overflow.html

If you've got deep pockets this looks neat (interesting!) but maybe fragile - I'd probably break it within a couple of months:   

http://reefbuilders.com/2010/06/07/hand ... aquariums/

And now this idea. Needs drilling the tank again but looks like quite a neat solution, would look even better if it could be done with clear acrylic tubes:

http://reefbuilders.com/2011/12/20/oceanlife-overflow/


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## foxfish (20 Apr 2012)

I don't normally drill overflows but make a 30 x 150mm cut out (depending on the tanks use & size)  in the side or rear panel, then fit an external overflow arangment.


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