# GSA or diatoms?



## Kuojne (4 Jan 2019)

Hello everyone. So i am kind of new in aquariums and all, have been doing this hobby for about 7 months or so..

This aquarium i started about 10 to 12 weeks ago and i am not sure what is happening with my aquarium, at first i thought those were diatoms, but it doesn't seem to go away so now i am starting to think this is GSA, but i wanted to make sure by asking you guys, plus i hope for some advices. I will attach some photos. Sorry for my english.

Aquarium is 100x60x50 200 liters

Lightning is LED Giesemann pulzar 52w HO (High output)/photoperiod is 4hrs, 1:30 for sunrise and sunset(3 total), 3hrs "moon".
Pressurised CO2 with solenoid valve, difuser connected to filter outlet. I use JBL PH-Computer for controlling solenoid valve. I try to start CO2 1hr before photo period and the CO2 is measured by PH level. When PH reacher 7.13 the solenoid valve opens and it lets CO2 (132 bubbles/minute) till it drops to 6.93. My KH is 8.

External filter Eheim Professionel 4+ 350T - 1050 liters/hr.

I do not do water changes, i only add weekly whats evaporated, which is around 10 liters.

I do not add any fertilizers constantly, i added some concentrated potassium and phosphate when i started the aquarium. My NO3 level is 30-40ppm, PO4 0.1-0.2



The plants kinda seem to grow very slow, now i am starting to think maybe the photoperiod is too short, but i am not changing it since i cannot deal with todays situation. Thank you in advance!


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## ian_m (4 Jan 2019)

Looks like GSA.

Generally caused by:
- Poor CO2 for your light levels.
- Too much light for your CO2 levels.
- Poor fertilisation levels.
- Too long a lighting period for an immature tank.
- Poor flow rate.
- Dirty organic loaded water.

Unfortunately you are attempting a half hearted high tech tank with insufficient CO2, insufficient fertiliser levels, poor flow rate and insufficient water changes.

You need to decide if you want to go full high tech with associated high light, correct CO2 levels, at least 2000l/hr filtration rate, high fertiliser dosing and weekly water changes.

To work with what you have:
- Put CO2 controller in the bin, I have never seen a CO2 controller being used that doesn't cause algae. pH is irrelevant as CO2 pH levels depends on water hardness which can vary daily and are not easy to measure accurately enough to use pH levels to inject CO2. Use a drop checker to ascertain true CO2 levels, I think you will find yours is b*gger all (according to plants!).
- Reduce the lighting levels to 1/2-1/4 output to stop vapourising the plants. Start with straight on/off 4 hours, no a*sing around with sunrise/sunset silly features.
- Add fertilisers of some sort frequently. Either premixed NPK + micros, if you feel like buying expensive water, or use EI fertiliser in say 1/4 or less dose frequently.
- Perform, water changes, maybe not weekly, but changing water removes organic wastes (and left over ferts).


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## sparkyweasel (4 Jan 2019)

Welcome! 
I agree with what Ian says above. I would also suggest adding some more plants, especially some fast-growing stem plants like Elodea/Egeria or Hornwort (_Ceratophyllum_) which will help in the competition between plants and algae.
If you search this forum you can find a discussion about pH controllers and why they can be more trouble than help, also how to mix your own fertilisers, which can save a lot of money in a large tank.


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## rebel (5 Jan 2019)

It's GSA. Suggest
1. Reduce light by 20%.
2. Increase CO2 by 20%.
3. Double your PO4 dosing.


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## Kuojne (5 Jan 2019)

Thank you for the advices! 

I forgot to mention that i did put capsuled fertilizers under the plant roots 2 times in 2 months. Composition: N ~ 8%, P ~ 0.8%, K ~ 23%, MG ~ 2%, microelements < 1.5%.
About more plants: I thought that i will grow them successfully and just going to reproduce them. Anyways, i thought about more variety of plants.
Ian, those features are not silly  I just want the aquarium to be lit more longer for more view, what if i would lover the intensity and longer the photoperiod and turn off that sunrise/sunset feature?


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## Konsa (5 Jan 2019)

Hi
The advice  Ian gave U is bang on the money.
U need to decide which approach is right for U.Low tech (no CO2 and less arsing about with tank maintenance if U have busy lifestyle)  or high tech with CO2 ( with this one U need apart from the decent tech U already have some form of commitment and maintenance routine like regular large Water changes, daily ferts
Your tank is not matured enough and your routine is not up to mark to handle the ammount of light U have atm.Algae is overpowering the stressed plants and U are getting in trouble.
If U cant spare 1 minute a day to dose ferts and 1-2 hours a week to do maintenance  I will advise on going low tech  wich will give U more margin for errors.I personally ditched the CO2 more than an year ago as part of my long term experiment what I can grow on a budget in sand (gravel) and for how long I can maintain it.Its going well enough for me so far.
Hope U turn things arround.
Best of luck and keep us posted.
Regards Konsa


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## Kuojne (5 Jan 2019)

There is completely no problem for me to have a maintenance routine, i just want to have a beautiful tank. It is just that i have talked to people, i have read opinions, and some say it is better to leave aquarium as it is to get its bio cycle running, you know, just like in nature, some say do water changes.. I used to do water changes before, and i still had a problem with algae, so i decided to give it a shot and just leave the aquarium be. 

Another thing i forgot to mention(what a bum head) is that i have option for RO water

Thank you for your time!


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## Konsa (5 Jan 2019)

Hi
The cycling will happen one way or anorher no matter what U do.It has very little to do with your plants health tho it is more for your fish stock.Your problem that the light U have is a beast( I love to have it on my tank btw)  and for the 3 plants U have in there is a bit too much.Basics of healthy plants is to achieve balance  between your light levels and CO2 and the rest of the nutrients needed.More light more demmand for everything else.When U have even one nutrient limiting and strong light the plant starts to suffer and algae prevails.
Here comes Ian's advice to reduce your light levels.That will help U manage things easier untill U get things in check.
Other options are available too..Get loasds more plants in (fast growing stems best) Ramp up the CO2(do this slowly over few days and observe fish closely as U can gas them,start dosing EI levels of ferts(Macro and Micro) regularly along with the weekly waterchanges.Yes people do start hi lite tanks with success  (mainly the more experienced ones ) but many fail to do so and end up with algae farms or worse ,leaving the hobby.
Thats where all keep changing water to keep oganics low and start with less light advices come from.Its just much more manageable when things develop slowly for the experienced  person.
U seem keen enogh.Be wise and start walking and in 6 months U will be running after another 12 U may be even flying who knows.
Regards Konsa


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## Kuojne (5 Jan 2019)

Yes, i was aware of the stability in aquarium to keep away from algae, that's why i reduced my photoperiod from 6hrs to 4, plus i do weekly tests, i've read somewhere that you should keep somewhat around 30-40ppm NO3 and about 10-20% of PO4  looking at NO3, so that would be 0.3 PO4, so that's what i did, and the rest of ferts i thought i may get from my tap water and also that capsuled ferts.

Anyway, i haven't met the term EI fertilization before, thank you, guys, for that, i've just read about it and gonna start doing it from tomorrow.

As they say, we live and learn. Thank you all for your time and good luck with your underwater worlds!


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