# Need help with new tank



## DEL 707 (11 Sep 2019)

I've recently purchases a Aqua One AquaNano 40 tank and I would like to set it up as a planted tank, but I could use some help.

I got some bogwood, bit bigger then I anticapated, but you can see the tank layout. 











1st thing I need help with, is selecting some plants. I would really like some kind of carpet plant for the front of the tank.
As for the back and round the left side, I really have no idea what to put there.
Are there any viable plants I can attach to the wood itself?

I don't plan on adding CO2 to this tank, but is it worth changing my lights? I'm having trouble finding out what wattage they actually are.

What substrate/soil should I use? I always thought a black substrate with green plants always looked nice.

I'm going to use RO water because my tap water is rather hard and pretty poor, can anyone recommend a product to "re-mineralise" it? I was thinking about Seachem Equilibrium.

Stock wise, I was aiming for mainly shrimp with some Cardinal/Neon Tetras. Is it worth investing in ceramic noodles for the filter?

Should I be looking into any ferts?

I great appreciate any help.


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## Edvet (12 Sep 2019)

DEL 707 said:


> I'm going to use RO water because my tap water is rather hard and pretty poor


Plants won't realy need it (most plants can grow in liquid rock), if you want it for your livestock you could dilute tapwater with rainwater 50/50, also RO can be used in combination with tap


DEL 707 said:


> ceramic noodles for the filter?


Quite useless in a planted tank, filter is mostly to get some flow, just use some coarse filtersponge


DEL 707 said:


> Cardinal/Neon Tetras


Neons are unhealthy most of the times, cardinals don't need realy soft water, waterchanges are more important.
Regarding tap water: make sure you prepare it in case of chlorine/chloramine being used (Prime for instance), but in general it's better to do a lot of waterchanges then to hold them back due to not having the 'perfect' water to use


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## Aqua sobriquet (12 Sep 2019)

Following advice on here I’m using rainwater for my 10L and 37L Nano’s.


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## alto (12 Sep 2019)

I suggest you begin soaking the wood immediately (possibly boil, changing water until soaking water is no longer crazy dark) - there been a few journals recently where the (large amount of) wood seems to negatively impact the scape (furious algae )

Check flow through the tank when determining wood position (good flow throughout the tank is always important even with non-CO2 addition)

Cheapest method to remineralize RO water is just mix with tap water 
(some professional scapers prefer to use a branded mix as it creates continuity - tap water may change seasonally or if multiple water sources) 

Depending how hard your water, I’d just go with tap - so much simpler 

You can attach various epiphyte plants to the wood, also mosses
eg, Anubias, Bucephalandra (is add these once tank is established as they can be expensive and prone to “melt” - try to choose nursery grown Buce for environmental considerations, also they’re usually hardier types), Microsorum (though you’d want smaller variants in this tank size)

Tropica website is well worth a thorough read - loads of information on plant types, plant handling, tank management etc, check their YouTube channel and playlists (eg Plant Handling is a video playlist)

The retailer should be able to supply light details (check the plug/adapter etc for small print) - it seems that AquaOne may change lights over time (and sale point)

If light is quite dim, ambient light can help with plant growth (avoid direct sunlight or too close to windows re possible rapid heating of tank)

Plants - choose a mix of fast growing stems (important during startup, see Tropica *Supporting Plants* page) and slower growth plants


Soil - Tropica Aquarium Soil Powder! 
(my all time favourite substrate)


Carpet ideas
E acicularis (and E a ‘mini’ - need more light, prefers CO2 but sometimes does very well in low tech setups)
Crypt wendtii ‘green’ - from tissue culture, the plant seems to remain smaller in low tech tanks
Crypt beckettii petchii - pot plant, new leaves are often small, bronze coloured crypt
Marsilea hirsuta (possibly crenata as well)
Lilaeopsis brasiliensis
Helanthium tenellum 

I’ve had S subulata and H quadricostatus remain small in low tech tanks, the latter is usually larger and faster growing 


I really like Rotala Vietnam H’ra and H zosterfolia for stem plants - leaf is more delicate than Hygrophila sp. such as Siamensis 53B (but it’s all about what you like!)
Tropica plant profiles list growth rates, light, CO2 preferences etc (some plants are more forgiving)


I’d establish shrimp and plants before adding any fish (also some Clithon sp snails - awesome algae crew and small and rarely leave any eggs about) 

While you can put cardinal tetras in this tank, I wouldn’t - they prefer much more swimming room 
Neon tetras are less active so seem to do better in smaller tanks (than some of the other tetras)

While tank is a 40cm cube, the actual swimming areas is smaller re filter compartment - and now a large wood piece
Lampeyes killifish seem to manage fine in smaller tanks, most guppies and endlers (choose just males as you don’t want the million babies)

Seriously Fish does an amazing job with their fish profiles, usually including activity information and minimum tank and shoal size etc 
https://www.seriouslyfish.com/


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## sparkyweasel (12 Sep 2019)

Have a look at Green Neons, they are a bit smaller than Neons, and less likely to be in really poor condition when you get them.


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## DEL 707 (14 Sep 2019)

Thanks for all the replies.

I do like the look of E Acicularis, would drawf hairgrass be another option?

I've emailed Aqua One, asked them if they can give me some details on the lights.

What are my options for adding CO2? I don't have the room to add a big canister.

Also, what can I put underneath my tank, since it's on feet, I don't want to use the styrofoam that came with it.


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## alto (14 Sep 2019)

DEL 707 said:


> do like the look of E Acicularis, would drawf hairgrass be another option?


Same difference 
I believe Dennerle call their version E pusilla 
The “mini” version generally prefers CO2 but can also be grown in nonCO2 tanks - it’s just less predictable 
Often in a low tech set up, E acicularis (note the lack of “mini”) will attain similar height, but is more predictable in growth (seems to care less about CO2, though if planted side by side with E acicularis  “mini” in a high tech tank will usually be taller and more aggressive in growth pattern)

Tanks on “feet” (or other “free floating” options) are usually placed on a level surface without any mats required 
Though if you choose to use one, it should be fine - and perhaps a good idea as they can protect against vibration and can offset small difference in “level” 
BUT styrofoam is not designed/built for this purpose, look for a dense, closed cell foam (ADA garden mat is the classic example) 

You can add systems that use disposable CO2 canisters, JBL and Eheim both offer decent (500g) sized canister which may be disposable or refillable (kit costs more) BUT check that your local gas filler will take these refillable canisters (usually require different adaptor than the larger CO2 canisters)
Tropica also offers a Nano CO2 Kit with 95g disposable cylinders - this size generally ships world wide without issue - but check costs of the canisters (I use this on a 30cm cube and with 24/7 CO2 @ 0.5bps, 95 g canister lasts 6 weeks, plant growth is slow but no visible algae and plants include Eriocaulon cinereum, H verticillata)

CO2 Art offers a Soda Stream adaptor for their systems ... if you go this route, check the canister weight when purchased (as some have reported underweight refills)


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## DEL 707 (15 Sep 2019)

Thanks for the reply.

So I don't need to worry about putting anything under the tank, to support it?

I have no room underneath the tank to hide a canister. How are the CO2 kits that come in cans? I saw 1 earlier "Tropica Plant Growth System 60", i know these won't be as good as a proper canister with a diffuser, but are they worth using?


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## alto (15 Sep 2019)

The system 60 will be very expensive long term, if you go that route, I’d suggest just using it to help establish plants and then taper off (select suitable plants with this in mind)

It will only supply much lower CO2 levels than any of the other canister systems (and CO2 level is much less stable)

You might look at the “biological” CO2 systems - they will usually also supply lower CO2 amounts and more erratic CO2 levels in tank  and should work out cheaper to run than the System 60

I’ve used a Tropica System 60 on a Spec 19 with good success BUT that’s a much smaller thank than your 40cm cube

(I only did this as a “demonstration” and once the initially purchased cylinders (System + 3 refill kit) were empty, ran tank without CO2)

Note, you need to monitor visitors etc as they can quickly empty your canister


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## DEL 707 (15 Sep 2019)

O.k, you've put me off using a tin cans.

This is the unit I have my tank on.





I'm sure on size wise, but can you recommend a proper CO2 setup that will fit under there?
About 10 years ago, I used to rent a CO2 canister from a local gas supplier, but the bloody thing was massive. 

Looks like some of these kits come with the bubble counters, should I get rid of them and get a proper glass diffuser.

I'm hoping to order all my stuff tonight, so it turns up on Tuesday (my day off).


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## DEL 707 (15 Sep 2019)

Another quick post, CO2 can wait till another day, but now looking at the order for my plants.

Was thinking of this.

Tropica Eleocharis acicularis 'mini' x 3
Java Moss x 1
Anubias Petite x 2
Rotala Vietnam H'ra x 2

Opinions?


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## alto (15 Sep 2019)

I’d edge my bets by ordering

Tropica 1-2-Grow
2 x E mini
1 x E acicularis (May not be on website as I believe Tropica Denmark lists this in their Special Edition range)
Moss - I’d choose a more stuctured moss such as Flame, Spiky etc)
Rotala V H’ra - just one pot is loads, so add another plant such as Pogostemon erectus etc (stem plant) or Crypt wendtii green (mid ground plant)


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## DEL 707 (15 Sep 2019)

Sorry, tropica 1-2-Grow? What does that mean?


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## alto (15 Sep 2019)

Sorry, looking at your plant list, I assumed you were ordering in vitro plants
Tropica’s range is called 1-2-Grow

https://tropica.com/en/plants/1-2-grow/


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## DEL 707 (15 Sep 2019)

Thanks for the speedy reply.

I've placed my order.



> 2x  Tropica Eleocharis acicularis 'mini' 1-2-GROW!
> 1 x	Tropica Taxiphyllum flame 1-2-GROW!
> 1 x	Tropica Rotala 'Vietnam H'ra' 1-2-GROW!
> 1 x	Pogostemon erectus
> ...


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## DEL 707 (16 Sep 2019)

Hopefully it'll all turn up tomorrow.

Still need to boil the wood, but should I was the soil 1st?

Could use a bit more help regarding CO2.

Thinking of buying the gas from a local stockist.
https://www.adamsgas.co.uk/product/...ponics-and-aquatic-plant-growth-new-cylinder/

But it still leaves me with the problem of getting a regulator and solenoid and there seem to be so many around, going from £30 to £200+!

I was looking at something like this.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/TOPQSC-Reg...JWZ7KDB7HRK&psc=1&refRID=S7KQ9D815JWZ7KDB7HRK


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## alto (16 Sep 2019)

I assume you mean “wash the soil”?
No
None of the Aquarium Soils are meant to be washed before use

I think you ordered Tropica soil? unlike some Aquarium Soils it will release only minimal ammonia 

Tropica provides a 90Day App you can download, this will give you a scheduled maintenance to follow

For CO2 regulator I’d just go with CO2Art - if you can’t find the combination you want onsite, just contact them and they’ll put something together for you, and provide excellent aftercare 
CO2Art has tested loads of components to bring to market a dependable economic aquarium CO2 system


This is CO2 - not something you want leaking into your home or struggling with in-tank levels due to faulty components (brought to you by that caring  company called Amazon ... they’ve just stripped away benefits and health care and cut wages from another group of employees  )


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## DEL 707 (16 Sep 2019)

Thanks for the help again.

I ordered this.
https://www.aquariumgardens.co.uk/a...se-series--dual-stage-with-solenoid-661-p.asp


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## DEL 707 (17 Sep 2019)

Well I've made a start.





Unfortunately I didn't soak the bogwood for long enough, so it's floating. I'm weighting it down with rocks at the moment. Hopefully I can finish filling it tomorrow. Going to have to keep misting the moss in the mean time.





Regulator is on it's way and I'm off to pick up a CO2 canister tomorrow.

Few more questions, does the diffuser need to be in the main tank compartment? or can I put it below the powerhead in the filter compartment?

Using this seachem equilibrium and RO water, it says use 1 teaspoon for 3dgh water hardness. Which I've done so far, should I be aiming for higher?


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## dw1305 (17 Sep 2019)

Hi all, 





DEL 707 said:


> it says use 1 teaspoon for 3dgh water hardness. Which I've done so far, should I be aiming for higher?


That should be fine. Do you have <"hard tap water?">

cheers Darrel


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## alto (17 Sep 2019)

I’d break up the plants into more (smaller) clumps (? that always sounds a bit rude  )


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## DEL 707 (18 Sep 2019)

Regulator turned up and I picked up a CO2 canister as well.

Started filling up the tank more and the bogwood took off again! Weighted it down with another stone but still can't fill up the tank completely.
But did give me an excuse to replant some of the grass.


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## DEL 707 (19 Sep 2019)

Bloody woods still giving me grief, it's moved so much the front soil looks like a bunch of sand dunes.
I think we I need a water changed next week, I'll redo the tank again.

On the plus side, I got enough water in to get the heater and CO2 going.

There's a bubble counter on the regulator, I assume it's safe to just add water to it?


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## Andrew Butler (20 Sep 2019)

Without meaning to sound rude the best advice I can give you is take a step back and try not to be in such a rush, I think it's where a lot of people go wrong.
If you can just take that step back, be patient and hold on a little while then you could get things moving along quicker, easier and probably thank yourself.

One option if you want the wood sinking and to get things going yesterday would be to empty things out and as wood can take a very long time to sink could be to get a slate flooring tile, screw the wood to the slate from the underneath using an appropriate stainless steel screw then trim the slate so it's footprint is not as large. This would also give you an opportunity to trim the wood if you feel it's oversized, angle it as you like and move things along quicker.

I'm not saying this is the thing to do but just one option.


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## Onoma1 (20 Sep 2019)

I found James Wong's site invaluable when setting up my first aquarium. This section in his site may be helpful for you in relation to C02: https://www.advancedplantedtank.com/choosing-co2-why.html

You could follow Andrew's advice on the wood - this works for a lot of people and he used it to great effect in is Lonely Tree / Cloudy Sky scape with a difficult piece of wood/position. Alternatively, you could glue it to the base (see the Filipe Oliveira's  scape in Aquarium Gardens where he demonstrates this technique). My prefered approach would be just keep a stone on it for a few weeks until it is soaked, smooth out the 'sand dunes' during your next water change and let your plants settle in.


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## Andrew Butler (20 Sep 2019)

Onoma1 said:


> You could follow Andrew's advice on the wood


Option - not advice


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## Onoma1 (20 Sep 2019)

Andrew Butler said:


> Option - not advice



Gentle suggestion, idea, wise counsel, tried and tested solution, pure genius , concept that is so brilliant but so simple that you kick yourself for not thinking of it earlier


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## Andrew Butler (21 Sep 2019)

Onoma1 said:


> pure genius


 Haha - genius I'm not quite so sure!


Onoma1 said:


> tried and tested solution


It did also work on a piece of bogwood my mum had been trying to sink for a number of months so I'll settle for tried and tested @Onoma1


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## DEL 707 (21 Sep 2019)

Yeah, I royally messed up with the bogwood.

I'm hoping it settles by Tuesday when I do a water change so that I can sort out the gravel and replant stuff. If not I'll have to just keep waiting.

Planning to do a 50% water change weekly. That about right.?
Currently doing 6 hours of CO2 and lighting, CO2 comes on and turns off 1 hours before the lights.


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## alto (21 Sep 2019)

With that amount to wood, I’d strongly suggest more frequent water changes

50-70% as often as you can do them 

Refill with cooler water (more dissolved gases including oxygen and often CO2)

If you don’t notice the wood becomes at least somewhat less “floaty” I’d intervene
(try boiling (the heat speeds up the water logging process) if you remove it from the tank - I’d also give is good scrub post-boil to check for loose wood fibres)

Looking back at the type of wood, I think boiling should suffice (rather than needing to attach stone)


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## DEL 707 (28 Sep 2019)

I boiled the wood again on Tuesday and replanted everything.
Unfortunately woods still floating, so pinning it down with rocks and the heater.






CO2's been going for around 2 hours at this point, should I be aiming for a higher green. I know nothings in the tank but I've always worried about CO2, the last time I had a planted tank (nearly 10 years ago), the fish were gasping whenever it was green.





Was thinking of looking into some inverts, but looks like I'm still early on in the cycle.





Should I keep going with the 50% weekly water changes and my 6 hour C02/lighting schedule?


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## dw1305 (28 Sep 2019)

Hi all,





DEL 707 said:


> Was thinking of looking into some inverts, but looks like I'm still early on in the cycle.


Are you adding ammonia to the tank?

cheers Darrel


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## DEL 707 (28 Sep 2019)

dw1305 said:


> Hi all,Are you adding ammonia to the tank?



No, filters only been working for a few days, I'm assuming it's some dead plant matter...or someones been peeing in my RO water!


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## dw1305 (28 Sep 2019)

Hi all, 





DEL 707 said:


> No, filters only been working for a few days, I'm assuming it's some dead plant matter...or someones been peeing in my RO water!


Strange, that is a lot of ammonia. No real idea of why you have so much (unless some-one is peeing in your RO).

cheers Darrel


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## DEL 707 (1 Oct 2019)

DEL 707 said:


> Using this seachem equilibrium and RO water, it says use 1 teaspoon for 3dgh water hardness. Which I've done so far, should I be aiming for higher?



Made a bit of a cockup, re-read the instructions today, it's meant to be a tablespoon, not a teaspoon.

PH seems really low, only 6.0, is that because I've been dosing incorrectly, or do I need a buffer?


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## alto (1 Oct 2019)

dw1305 said:


> (unless some-one is peeing in your RO).
> 
> cheers Darrel



According to some, baby urine is especially highly prized


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## alto (1 Oct 2019)

DEL 707 said:


> Made a bit of a cockup, re-read the instructions today, it's meant to be a tablespoon, not a teaspoon.
> 
> PH seems really low, only 6.0, is that because I've been dosing incorrectly, or do I need a buffer?


I’d not worry about pH, just keep up with frequent water changes and let everything establish 
Most recommend daily or alternate day water changes at this stage 
If the wood is releasing loads of organics into the water column, I’d do daily water changes if possible 
(and wouldn’t worry about any additives except dechlorinator)

Compare what you’re seeing with your test kit vs local water parameters (acc water supplier etc)


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## ian_m (2 Oct 2019)

DEL 707 said:


> No, filters only been working for a few days, I'm assuming it's some dead plant matter...or someones been peeing in my RO water!


Or could be from your RO water. You must always always dechlorinate\de-ammonia\test your RO water as RO units are not 100% guaranteed to remove chlorine/chloramine.

Your excessive ammonia levels could be coming from your RO water.

Chlorine\ammonia in RO water can be removed by either something like Prime, or aerating/standing for 24hours before use. A test kit will give an accurate answer (free chlorine test kit and/or ammonia test kit) as there will be only one ion present, unlike fish tank water and test kits.

The chlorine in RO water comes from not using or using an exhausted RO or finally running flow too fast with a carbon/chlorguard pre-filter. The pre-filter fails to remove the chlorine, which then damages the RO membrane and passes through into the RO water. So you need a top notch, preferable Chlorguard based RO pre-filter, running sufficiently slow to guarantee chlorine removal.

The ammonia in RO water, is similar due to poor pre-filter, and presence of chloramine in the incoming water. If the pre-filter is poor (or incorrect type) the chloramine is broken down by the pre-filter to chlorine and ammonia, the chlorine is absorbed, but ammonia needs longer to be absorbed, but if left in water, passes through the RO membrane into the RO water.

The marine big boys with expensive fish, either ensure their pre-filters are top notch, have lots of pre-filters, test the RO water or just add Prime before use.


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## DEL 707 (5 Oct 2019)

Unfortunately I've not had time to do any water changes during the week. But I went and go some more RO and did a 50% change today.

These were my test results before the change.





So definately progressing along the nitrogen cycle.

I checked my RO water and got 0 with my ammonia test, but I am dosing with Prime now as a precaution.


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## david boden (5 Oct 2019)

DEL--I can't advise you anywhere near as well as the other guys regarding plants etc.

However, I do have 5 Aquanano tanks up and running , so I'm very familiar with their good and not so good points.
The first thing I feel I need to mention is that the filled tank is going to weigh around 100 pounds, and it's asking a lot of your drawer top to sustain that weight without dipping in the middle.

Secondly, those four little feet underneath the tank really love to dig into wooden things when the weight pushes down, therefore you may benefit from getting a thick piece of perspex cut  to the width of your furniture top to spread the weight, and protect the furniture top.---of course that's entirely up to you.

Lastly, I understand why you've been told not to bother with noodles, and use the sponges supplied, but I can tell you that the sponges  really restrict the flow through the various filter chambers, and you'll eventually get a water level drop in the final  powerhead chamber that's gonna cause you trouble.

My solution is to use a wad of floss, or sponge behind the inlet slots, and then use a good many loose noodles in the other chambers to allow free flow of the water through the system. Even then, you may need to change the floss regularly, or keep the sponge clear.

I'm only trying to help you on this specific tank, , and certainly don't seek to override any other poster, or  indeed your own wishes.


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## DEL 707 (5 Oct 2019)

Well, that's got me very worried now.

Should I get some perspex to cover the entire surface area of the drawer?
What kind of thickness 10mm?
Or am I fighting a losing battle, should I buy the Aquanano 40 cabinet?


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## david boden (5 Oct 2019)

Del----don't get worried !
I would always recommend getting the correct cabinet to support the tank.
They're self assembly, and it's really important to follow the instruction process they provide in the correct order.
Of course it's your call, but I tried it once on a chest of drawers ,      and it didn't end too well !


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## DEL 707 (5 Oct 2019)

david boden said:


> Del----don't get worried !



Worried? I'm close to panicking!

I'm going to order the proper cabinet for the tank, unless anyone has any other suggestions.
https://www.aquarium-parts.co.uk/aq...spire-40-cabinet-walnut-black-gloss-door.html

Should I still get some acrylic to go underneath the tank and what sort of thickness?

Moving the tank, how easy is that going to be?
Draining the waters no problem, but I would really hate to have to remove the plants and the soil.


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## DEL 707 (5 Oct 2019)

O.k, quick re-think.

What about a slightly larger cabinet?
https://www.aquarium-parts.co.uk/aq...spire-60-cabinet-walnut-black-gloss-door.html

Is a bigger cabinet going to cause any problems? Because the tank would be sitting in the middle rather then on the edges.


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## david boden (5 Oct 2019)

Go for the cabinet made for your Aquanano 40----moving the tank will be ok if you drain it just until you and a partner can lift it easily.
You will need the Aquanano 60 cabinet when you buy your next larger tank-----bound to happen !!


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## DEL 707 (5 Oct 2019)

Would the 60 cabinet cause problems then? I do prefer it's look over the 40.

Should I still look into putting something underneath the tank?


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## david boden (5 Oct 2019)

Don't  think the bigger cabinet will be a prob, and you shouldn't need anything added.
They're made to cope .


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## DEL 707 (9 Oct 2019)

I called the company about the cabinet.
They told me it wasn't braced in the middle and didn't recommend that I use it, so I've ordered the smaller cabinet.

Not had much time for the tank this week due to work, but done some testing.
0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, nitrates sitting around 10ppm.

Should I be adding an ammonia product to feed the filter, since I'm still lacking any kind of livestock?

I was hoping to look into adding some shrimp/snails next week, but I need to make sure that when I move the tank over to the cabinet I don't disturb something or get ammonia spike.


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## david boden (10 Oct 2019)

DEL----there are folks on here who are much more qualified than myself to advise on such technical matters.

I have been in this game for over thirty years now ,  but I follow my own tried and tested methods, which work very well for me, but may NOT be suited to your set up, tank management , and feeding regime.
If I had to leave you with one over arching piece of advice, it would be to remember that  over-feeding is probably your biggest enemy . If you take the tiniest pinch of  finger-crushed fish food you can, and sprinkle on the water surface, and then look up through the tank towards the surface, you will see that tiny pinch transform itself  into sometimes hundreds of floating food particles.-------try it for yourself, and then adjust your feeding DOWNWARDS accordingly---it's very important in my experience .
However, I'll buzz off now, and leave the technical advice to other good folk.
Good luck anyway.


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## dw1305 (10 Oct 2019)

Hi all, 





DEL 707 said:


> Should I be adding an ammonia product to feed the filter, since I'm still lacking any kind of livestock?


You don't ever need to add ammonia to a planted tank, even when the tank is "cycling".  A trickle of fish food etc. certainly won't do any harm, but higher levels of ammonia serve no useful purpose and are actively damaging to the microbial community within the tank. 

The cycling concept is based on the "best guess" scientific knowledge at the time, but more recent research (based on RNA/DNA) has shown that the entire premise isn't true for aquarium filters.

Have a look at <"Bedside Aquarium">, it links to the scientific papers, other threads of interest, and comments by <"Dr Tim Hovanec"> etc.   

cheers Darrel


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## DEL 707 (13 Oct 2019)

New cabinet arrived, managed to move the tank without disturbing things too much.






Not much change up front, but I've definately seen growth in the back. Can't remember the name of this plant, but it's cool to see the head and leaves bend towards the light sources in the house when the tank lights not on.





There's some black spots on my anubis though.





I was looking to add some cherry shrimp, so asked for help on a shrimp forum, but was told that Seachem Equilbrium didn't have all the needed minerals for shrimp.
I've been recommened "Salty Shrimp - Shrimp Mineral GH/KH+", but wondering if it has all the minerals needed for plants?

Edit - The damn wood is still floating...
Double Edit - So thinking back to my water, I did buy some more test kits over the weekend, this is what I got from my tap water.

PH: 7.13
TDS: 274
KH: 15
GH: 17 

If I was to start cutting my RO water with tap water, what GH should I be aiming for?


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