# Brown- Black algie covering monte carlo



## Caner (16 Jan 2015)

Hello I set up my tank 3 mounths ago but 3 weeks ago I put  monte carlo over the base slowly growing dark brown - black  layer. The same phenomenon among parvula and over the mini looks so brown. I noticed a part in the formation of whiskers.

After fertilization of planting  Nitrate 10, Phosphate 1, weekly 25 ppm potassium, weekly 2x5 ml micro and daily 0.1 ppm iron  fertilizers value I continued making two water changes a week.
I mitigate these problems increased,.

Tank Dimensions 75x40x40
  about 85 liters of water

Quantity of Light
2x24 Watt Grolux
2x24 Watt 6500 k
5-3-5 hours
Night 7 hours air motor works

Water quality;
25-30 ppm CO2
pH 7
Kh 10
gH 12
I keep PO4 between 0.5-0.2
No3 5
I test silicate 2 days ago 1 output
Eheim  2213 İ put purigen (2 months ago) and Phosguard (3 days ago) available

Fish;
10 Cardinal tetra 15 cherry shrimp, 1  Affinis
Plants;
Parvula, parvula Mini, Rotala, Monte Carlo

At first I suspected as diatoms in this regard, the outside of the container I have Phosguard the outside of the container for the waterchanges.

However, regional development and continued over the plants began to close as if though black canvas. At night time of large air bubbles on algae mania.

I thought at first diatoms. But did not decrease despite Phosguard use.

I'm sorry for my bad english


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## ian_m (16 Jan 2015)

You have 22 US gallon tank with 84Watts of light. That is very high light @ 4W/gallon, so unless your CO2 and flow is 100% spot on you will be vaporising your plants and suffering all types of algae issues. Oh you are....

Anyway the chart below from http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=105774 is a rough handy guide to light level.





Thus with your 40cm (15") depth & I assume T5 tubes multiplied by 4 you are in 440PAR range which is in the Klingon death beam range light level (not shown in above chart).

You need to, quarter (or halve) your light level and reduce the hours to maybe 4 hours to stop killing the plants and farming algae.

To get rid of existing algae, remove as much as possible by hand, tooth brush works well pulling hair algae off and do a 3-4 day 100% blackout. Turn lights off, cover tank in blankets for 3-4 days, no peeking, no fish feeding, this should kill all the algae. Algae stuck to leaves will have to be trimmed away. Algae remaining on hardscape can be killed by wiping with liquid carbon (or hydrogen peroxide).

Once all sorted start raising the light level, maybe only two tubes for 4-6 hours, ensuring CO2 is spot on everywhere. I suspect you will have issues running with 4 tubes and that light level.


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## Caner (16 Jan 2015)

thank you for information


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## Paulo Soares (11 Feb 2015)

I can´t understand this graphic. 

My lights are 2xT5 39W and are 18 inches above from the substrate. 


So.. in what PAR i am?


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## ian_m (11 Feb 2015)

Read along the bottom, to 18", then go up the 18 line to T5 curve, thus 1 T5 tube is 80par, thus two tubes is 160par, which is in very high light region, which is in the plant killing and algae production zone, unless your CO2 flow and distribution is spot on.

My lights are T5 HO about 20" and with reflectors and algae free, as after two years fiddling I have finally got CO2 flow and distribution spot on.


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## Paulo Soares (11 Feb 2015)

I´m not following...
And i´m reading the link of "planted tank" and still ..

So, for instance for having Medium lights at what point should i raised the bulbs?


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## Paulo Soares (11 Feb 2015)

ian_m said:


> thus 1 T5 tube is 80par



?


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## ian_m (11 Feb 2015)

Go up along the vertical 18 inch line until you hit the curve of your type of lighting. Assuming you are T5HO with reflector, you hit the "T5HO-Reflector for each bulb" curve at about 80 par level. Instructions say "For 2 to 4 bulb T5HO fixtures, multiply the PAR by number of bulbs", thus giving you 160 PAR.


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## Paulo Soares (11 Feb 2015)

Got ya!
IAn the man  many thanks friend.




ian_m said:


> My lights are T5 HO about 20" and with reflectors and algae free, as after two years fiddling I have finally got CO2 flow and distribution spot on.



Same as you


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## PARAGUAY (12 Feb 2015)

Like the graph Ian.  Paulo there is a fact sheet(excellent)by Richard at AquaEssential about CO2 at substrate level if it does not receive adequate flow then the algae shown in your pictures is the result.


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## Rahms (22 Feb 2015)

PARAGUAY said:


> Paulo there is a fact sheet(excellent)by Richard at AquaEssential about CO2 at substrate level if it does not receive adequate flow then the algae shown in your pictures is the result.



have you got a link? cant find anything on the site


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## PARAGUAY (23 Feb 2015)

Just read your post Rahms, I have had a look but cant find my copy basically its a a one sheet type circular sent out with goods purchased or you sign up for the circular.The circulars cover different topics ie algae, lighting,filtration even general cleanliness of the aquarium which is important as we know for planted tanks. The circular is about the importance of getting adequate flow to all parts of the tank with CO2 and nutrients.I would ask Richard on the sponsers at Aqua Essentials ,they may have more updated ones,or you check the posts of Ceg and others who cover this frequently


Rahms said:


> have you got a link? cant find anything on the site


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