# current setup and recommendations



## EmannAquarium (20 Nov 2017)

Hi,

at the moment I have a fully planted juwel Rio 240, its own canister filter of 1000l/hr and an extra cristalprofi at the other end of 720l/hr.

my current fish are: 
1xbala shark (10cm long)
1xrainbow shark (6cm long)
2xrainbow fish 9(6cm long)
1x leopard catfish
2xkoi angelfish (8cm long)

I wanted to start adding some other types since the major haul of the aquarium in august and local stockists are advising:

4xhatchet
4xcongo tetra
4xzebra danio
4xrasboras
1xleporinus - this I am not sure although it is a beautiful type of fish.

From the aqadvisor.com, with this final setup I am still good at filtration levels although about 10% overstocked...any advise please on these....also any idea where i can buy large amano shrimps that can be sent by post.

any assistance appreciated.


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## Enano_1 (20 Nov 2017)

Hello and wellcome EmannAquarium!!!

I have the same aquarium but Eheim version  ( eheim Vivaline 240 ).

From my point of view, you must to stop adding fishes to your aquarium.

I explain that...

You have mix fishes from " all parts of the World ", coldwater fishes ( kois angelfish )but not only that, the koi is a pond fish and in cautivity can reach over 1 meter.

I give you a recommendation. You should read about the biotopes of all fish that you have and taking care with the type of fishes that you choose. 

How you have a planted aquarium, you should choose a tropical water fishes, it is very big kingdom of fishes.

For the other question, the filtration.

For me, is too low. The recommendation for the filtration levels althought about 100%, for example, in my aquarium I have a Jbl cristalprofi e1501 and eheim professionel 4 + 250. ( 1400L/h + 950L/h ).

The Amano Shrimps are not compatible with the fishes that you have today.

I wish that you understand my poor english 

Thanks for reading me


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## EmannAquarium (20 Nov 2017)

Thanks for the reply...quite confused now as the recommendations supposedly came from the aquarium shops...

koi angels are also listed as for fresh water aquariums....

re filtration, it is my intention to use also the original juwel pump with the cristalprofi..this would achieve a combined rate of 2300l/hr then.

any ideas on the recommendations would be appreciated.


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## ceg4048 (20 Nov 2017)

Hi,
   I believe Enano_1 has confused the term "Koi Angelfish" with "Koi". These are angelfish so they are tropical, not coldwater.

He may have a point about the shrimp though. Predation could be an issue.

Also, as mentioned by Enano, is this a planted tank and are you planning on injecting CO2?

You can get away with overstocking if you do enough large water changes and if you avoid overfeeding.

Cheers,


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## EmannAquarium (20 Nov 2017)

Hi ceg4048...tks and great for your reply..it is always with intrigue that I read your replies in other posts as I find your answers detailed and informative.

it is a planted tank and injecting CO2...infact already planted since about 10wks now and as for now it seems to be going on well...

the aqadvisor.com showed a bit of overstocking with a 30% weekly water change..which I already do...

so kindly can you advise your thoughts on the fish mentioned in my first thread please.

tks.


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## ceg4048 (20 Nov 2017)

Hi Emann,
               Thanks for the kind words. Apart from the compatibility issues, as I mentioned, it's not really a problem in a planted tank (assuming the plants are healthy). The consequence of overstocking is that the excessive fish waste results in excessive bacterial breakdown and processing of the waste. 

The bacteria that perform this task are aerobic, meaning that they breathe Oxygen. If the tank is over the limit of fish waste then the amount of Oxygen being depleted from the water by the bacteria as they process the waste is so high that the fish will suffer hypoxia. When this happens, if the fish do not suffocate outright, then the loss of Oxygen weakens them so that they become susceptible to pathogens in the water.

Simply changing more water more frequently, and cleaning the filter more frequently removes the solid waste which the bacteria act upon. This reduces the bacterial load and preserves the Oxygen levels. Plants produce Oxygen during the day, and they process toxic waste such as ammonia without ejecting Nitrite, so this gives you a lot more margin of safety.

In any case, the tank needs to be kept clean. If injecting CO2 and dosing nutrients, I suggest a minimum of 50% weekly water changes and I think you'll be fine.

The worst time for fish is in the early morning, when the Oxygen levels are low due to respiration by plants and animals during the night.

Some folks also use an air pump on a timer to mitigate this.

Cheers,


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## sparkyweasel (20 Nov 2017)

I don't know what sort of Leporinus they suggested to you, but all the ones I know grow big and will eat aquarium plants.
If you like your rainbowfish, I would suggest getting a few more as they are happiest in a group.
So are congo tetras, so I would suggest more than four, but they would get on fine with your other fish.
Hatchetfish might not be comfortable with your other fish, which grow much bigger than hatchets and are quite boisterous, where hatchets are quiter in nature.
If your leopard catfish is a leopard corydoras, it will also be much happier with some companions, of the same, or another, species of corydoras.
There are lots of species of rasboras, you should rule out all the smaller ones.
hth


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## EmannAquarium (20 Nov 2017)

@sparkyweasel...tks ..yes i was wary of the leporinus and although its beautiful I would be concerned in view of their possible size in the future...rainbows are great so I would then opt for a second pair....same for congo - will opt for 3 pairs then...will not consider hatchet fish for now and actually the scavenger is a leopard catfish...at least its label was not marked as a corydora...which would you suggest for the rasboras please so that I get the larger types and any other advise for other types in case I do not find all these species pls.

@ceg5058...tks...as usual very detailed and informative reply...I have the juwel 1000lhr filter on one side and a cristalprofi on the other reaching a combined rate of 2300l/hr approx...for nutrients i generally use lush or neutro+...will increase my water change to 50% weekly and I switch on an air pump at lights out...i am still getting more information on my co2 cylinder, regulator, inline diffusers etc...especially watching this forum and dennis wong videos...drop checker gets green at some point but not at the 2 hr lights on and the seachem ph checker shows only a minor drop in ph at the moment..so after settling my fish I would be concentrating more on dialling in the co2 situation...attached is the setup just to give you an idea of what i have.

any other advise appreciated.


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## Enano_1 (21 Nov 2017)

ceg4048 said:


> I believe Enano_1 has confused the term "Koi Angelfish" with "Koi". These are angelfish so they are tropical, not coldwater.



OMG!!!

Yeah...I refer to Koi Carp

Sorry about that...

In Spain the name of that fish are Escalar ( Pterophilum Scalare )

Greetings


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## ceg4048 (21 Nov 2017)

EmannAquarium said:


> I have the juwel 1000lhr filter on one side and a cristalprofi on the other reaching a combined rate of 2300l/hr approx...for nutrients i generally use lush or neutro+...will increase my water change to 50% weekly and I switch on an air pump at lights out...i am still getting more information on my co2 cylinder, regulator, inline diffusers etc...especially watching this forum and dennis wong videos...drop checker gets green at some point but not at the 2 hr lights on and the seachem ph checker shows only a minor drop in ph at the moment..so after settling my fish I would be concentrating more on dialling in the co2 situation...attached is the setup just to give you an idea of what i have.


Hi Emann,
                It appears from the photo that you have the filter on the right attached to a spraybar but the filter on the left only uses it's normal filter outlet?
It's not clear to me which filter you are using to pump the CO2 through. I see the dropchecker on the right but no in tank diffuser so I'm making the assumption that you are sending gas through one of the filters.

On the other hand you mention that you are still getting more information about your CO2 equipment so perhaps you have not connected everything yet?

I might have things confused, but in any case, when things have settled and you want to optimize everything I suggest  one of two paths:
1. Connect a spraybar to the unit on the left. If that is the weaker of the filter the spraybar can be made shorter. 
   Both spraybars should be at the same level with the holes pointing forwards and then that wavemaker should be place in between them at the same level, not too far below as you have it there.
    Alternatively the wavemaker can be placed directly beneath the spraybar which is connected to weaker of the two filters.
   Use a "Y" fitting or "T" fitting to split the gas so that a gas line goes to each of the filter inlets.
The advantage of this method is that it provide a more even gas injection and flow to left and right sides of the tank.
The disadvantage is that it is more complicated and the gas never reallysplits exactly evenly through the "Y" or "T". One side will always get more gas than the other.

2. Leave the spraybar configuration the way that it is and run the gas to that filter inlet (assuming that is the stronger filter - if not then move the spraybar to the stronger filter)
    Move the wavemaker so that it is between the left filter outlet and the spraybar.
The advantage of this method is simplicity.
The disadvantage is that the CO2 distribution will be uneven and the plants on the side that does not have the gas through it's filter _may _perform less well than the opposite side.

Additionally, when sending gas to the filters, there is the ever present problem that the gas buildup in the filter chamber(s) can cause gurgling and burping. An in line diffuser or reactor such as an UP Atomizer can be used to at least partially reduce this problem.

If your tank's light unit has two bulbs, I would disable one of them until you are ready to tackle the CO2 and distribution. There is no point triggering an algae bloom before you even get started...

Cheers,


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## sparkyweasel (21 Nov 2017)

Hi Emann,
Some of the larger rasboras you might come across include;
Scissortail, Rasbora trilineata
Slender Rasbora, _R. daniconius,_
Brilliant Rasbora, _R. einthovenii_,
Twospot Rasbora, _R. elegans_,
Clown Rasbora _R. kalochroma_,
_Rasbora kottelati_, similar to clown,
Yellow Rasbora, _R. lateristriata_,
Elegant Rasbora, _R. elegans_,
_Rasbora trifasciata_,
Scissortails are the ones most commonly seen in shops, but others crop up sometimes. Greater Scissortails, _R. caudomaculata_, are nice, but will grow too big for your present tank. When you get hooked on the hobby and get lots more tanks, they could share a big one with some Leporinus. Lol.
Clown Rasboras are probably the most colourful, but they can be a bit delicate. If you go for those I would leave them till the tank has been running successfully for a while and add them last.
Related to the issue of overstocking which you mentioned, is not increasing the stocking level too quickly, I expect you know not to add a lot more fish in one go, but build up gradually, leaving the clowns to last if you choose to have some.
As for other possible fish species, it really depends on what you like, we're all different. Just research, or ask here about whatever  takes your fancy.
As you can see, it pays to get an independent opinion as well as one from the shop that wants to sell you some fish they have in stock. 
hth


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## EmannAquarium (22 Nov 2017)

@ceg4048...tks for reply...pls note attached photo...filter on right is juwel attached to a spray bar with diy inline diffuser....filter on left is cristalprofi attached to a spraybar with up inline diffuser...CO2 is from a cylinder with a solenoid and regulator from CO2  art and a splitter adjustable on both ends to regulate separately.....spray bar length are adjusted according to strenght of pump already...power head is quite beneath their level and i had to trim part of the background to fit it to the magnet...so to shift up I will remain with a hole in the background...any advise on this or some other options pls....

as for the lights i have just got the juwel heliolux with controller...amazing is an understatement...I am following another thread here to try and dial best timings for day light and settings of luminosity as well.

In the photo you will also note a surface skimmer...just done this today with the old juwel 600l/hr pump after following the videos of dennis wong.....as for now I am still not sure of the CO2 rate...i.e. i do not think i get a 1ph drop in the first two hours (checked with the seachem ph alert) up however drop checker shows lime green colour.

always a pleasure to have your replies and look forward for further advise.

tks


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## EmannAquarium (22 Nov 2017)

@sparkyweasel...tks...will check with the shops which types they have...will have to go for the larger ones for sure...as for adding to the tank and since I would be getting like 3 pairs of these or congos,etc...is it ok to add 6 fish in one go or do you suggest going for 2 at a time until I have the whole group of 6 together.


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## ceg4048 (22 Nov 2017)

Hi Emann,
                 OK, thanks for the clarification. The CO2 diffusion seems to be already solved, however, it might be my imagination or optical illusion, but that latest photo seems to show the holes in the  spraybar pointing down(?) Probably it's just the angle of the shot, but in case they are pointing down, be advised that the conventional arrangement is to have the holes pointing forward. Again, it's difficult to predict the flow patterns just by a glance at a photo so it might be OK.



EmannAquarium said:


> power head is quite beneath their level and i had to trim part of the background to fit it to the magnet...so to shift up I will remain with a hole in the background...any advise on this or some other options pls....


OK, sorry, I failed to notice that this was an internal 3D background. I assumed it was a sheet of paper taped to the exterior. 
I still don't think it's in the best location and it's not clear if you have future plans for that background, but, for example, turning it into a moss wall might be interesting. If the flow distribution does not work out, then you could relocate the pump and simply fill the gap with a styrofoam diskwhile supergluing some moss onto the disk.
In any case, lets see how it works at it's present location.


EmannAquarium said:


> In the photo you will also note a surface skimmer...just done this today


OK, well I must say that I don't know Mr. Wong  and I don't really understand this current trend towards skimmers. I think it's a completely unnecessary piece of equipment which might actually interfere with flow/distribution. Of course, in marine tanks this is a different story but in freshwater tanks it has little relevance.

If you cannot drop the pH by 1 unit in 2 hours then there is definitely something wrong with either the flow/distribution, too much surface agitation, or something wrong with injection rate or with the dissolution method, so that's a really important issue to resolve.

As far as your lighting goes, once again I would caution you to avoid falling in love with your lights without paying attention to whether the tank inhabitants are as much enamored. If your CO2/flow/distribution has not yet been optimized, you would do well to keep the intensity very low for the moment...

Cheers,


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## sparkyweasel (22 Nov 2017)

Hi Emann,
with your 240 litre tank, adding six fish at a time should be OK. Then wait maybe two weeks before adding more. If any fish start to look ill or unhappy you can increase your water changes to help with the water quality. Your filter will adapt to the new stocking level, it just takes a little time.
Most people on this forum think water test kits are not very good, but your fish will show you if the water quality is getting poor. If that happens, extra water changes will correct the problem. 
hth


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## EmannAquarium (23 Nov 2017)

@ceg4048...holes are pointing forward and slightly upwards to create some agitation...this wkend should finalise the left side one and will try to post a video of the final setup for your review pls.

as fo 3d background will check with local shop if I can find a piece of offcut to replace the cutting and move the power head to a higher level below the spray bars...what is styrofoam and from where can i get this?..i also like the suggestion of the moss....have a look at this thread for dennis videos... https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/surface-agitation-in-co2-planted-tanks.50674/...in view of your knowledge i think you will find them interesting....I am also noting your comment on the flow which also makes sense to me...definitely since i put the skimmer the surface of the water looks much cleaner however.

now as far as pH goes this seems to be the next item to target...i can get lime green in the drop checker approx 3.5 hours it seems but cannot achieve a 1pH drop...i am monitoring this on the seachem ph alert check...is this instrument ok or should i try something els...the flow is as i have shown...two filters, two spray bars, 1 inline diffuser in each bar, 2 seperate CO2 supplies and 1 power head in the middle...should i try to increase injection rate at the moment maybe?...lights are being kept on 80% for only 3 hours at the moment taking your advise...hope I can manage to achieve this pH thing.


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## EmannAquarium (23 Nov 2017)

@sparkyweasel...tks..so will go for the tetras or raspboras and see how it goes....is there any digital one for all unit to check water parameters or which test kits do you suggest pls.


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## ceg4048 (24 Nov 2017)

EmannAquarium said:


> what is Styrofoam and from where can i get this?


Hi Emann,
                Styrofoam is the plastic like material used, for example when shipping something in a box to prevent damage to the contents of the box. If you have ever bought something new from the shop, when you open the box you would have seen the white Styrofoam pieces surrounding the object that you purchased.
Styrofoam comes in many shapes and sizes. Cups, plates and egg crates are made of styrofoam. Sorry for the confusion.


 

 



The thing that you have to consider about skimmers, is that they are actually masking your problem.

When you feed the tank nutrients and when your CO2 is excellent, then the surface becomes clear and clean without any additional equipment.

I want to see what's happening at the surface, because this is an early warning sign that I am doing something wrong. please review https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/surface-scum-keeps-coming-back.2389/
There is no point in sweeping the tanks problems under the carpet because the problems always gets worse. You are not doing yourself any favors by using a skimmer, because you are creating a mirage.



EmannAquarium said:


> now as far as pH goes this seems to be the next item to target...i can get lime green in the drop checker approx 3.5 hours it seems but cannot achieve a 1pH drop...i am monitoring this on the seachem ph alert check...is this instrument ok or should i try something els...the flow is as i have shown...two filters, two spray bars, 1 inline diffuser in each bar, 2 seperate CO2 supplies and 1 power head in the middle...should i try to increase injection rate at the moment maybe?...lights are being kept on 80% for only 3 hours at the moment taking your advise...hope I can manage to achieve this pH thing.


Well, really, to be honest, this seems more of a toy than a serious device for what we are involved in. It may be accurate, but it doesn't seem to be something that I would trust. To be fair, the dropchecker is probably not that much more advanced but the best equipment is a quality pH probe. These are a bit more expensive, so for the moment you might wish to use the standard pH test kit which use reagents and a color comparison chart and take readings every half hour. I don't like to suggest that you spend more money because I realize many people are on a budget, but CO2 is a serious affair so we should use serious equipment.

I also don't know what is available in Malta so I hesitate to suggest any products as they may be cheap where I live but outrageously expensive where you live. 

Cheers,


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## EmannAquarium (24 Nov 2017)

Hi ceg4048...ok styrofoam is polystyrene then...thats fine and simple...will try to also do the power head relocation this week..how shall i point it pls..direct to the front or slightly towards the bottom.

will have a look at the link you posted re the skimmer..maybe will try to invert the unit and use it as an extra normal filter then.

as regards to pH then will get a normal tester and see what changes are happening in my tank...hopefully with the change of colour in the drop checker I am having the pH drop which is not being indicated in the seachem tester...i need to take readings every half an hour from start until i register a drop and then check at what time this happens...correct...then will report from here onwards....pls confirm this is the way to go.

tks a lot for your great help.


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## ceg4048 (24 Nov 2017)

Hi Emann,
               Yes, OK, polystyrene. That's the Euro-word. Sorry, my mistake. 



EmannAquarium said:


> .i need to take readings every half an hour from start until i register a drop and then check at what time this happens...correct.


Yes, just take the readings from gas on till lights off and report back with the pH value and the time. Annotate so we can see when the gas on, lights on and lights off times are.



EmannAquarium said:


> how shall i point it pls..direct to the front or slightly towards the bottom.


No, all pump outputs should face the front glass and optionally, be slightly pointed upwards. This is how you used the power of the filter output to break up the normal amounts of surface film.
If there is more surface film that this technique can dissipate, then this tells you immediately that something is going wrong with the plants. As I mentioned, skimmers hide this information from you, so you have a clean surface but possibly unhealthy plants.

Cheers,


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## techfool (25 Nov 2017)

Long, long before your filter is over stretched you will see that your tank is becoming overcrowded. I know that I simply cannot squeeze in one more fish.
i stopped paying attention to calculators a long time ago. Cories in the wild move in groups of thousands so why is 6 the new minimum and not 5,or 4? I do a lot of research, observe the fish instore as much as possible, and then come to my own conclusion. Plants help a lot in easing overcrowding. Some of my fish I hardly see as they like to sit in the plants and that's fine by me.
I will say though that if I were to do it all again I would have fewer species with more of each species. I think that looks more natural than pick n mix. But it's down to personal preference.


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## EmannAquarium (26 Nov 2017)

hi techfool...what would be the signs to look out for in the filter pls...and also what would be your recommendations for my list....the current one is:

1xbala shark (10cm long)
1xrainbow shark (6cm long)
4xrainbow fish 9(6cm long)
1x leopard catfish
2xkoi angelfish (8cm long)
6xcongo tetras

I am also still looking for that particular fish to put amongst all that would sort make a hit when seen in the aquarium as well.

any advise appreciated.


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## EmannAquarium (27 Nov 2017)

Hi ceg4048...hope u had a good wkend...

so I did the monitoring as advised for the duration I could...pls note below....i have also completed the left spray bar (holes slightly tilted up as per right hand one) and replaced the skimmer with a filter...so total filter capacity as taken from the pumps are 1000+720+600=2320l/hr.  Pls note below (timeH) and also attached video showing surface agitation with power head tilted upwards - I had to leave this at the current level as mounting instructions state to install at minimum 10cm below surface.

1500:8.0
1530:8.0
1600:8.0
1630:8.0
1700:8.0:Lights on
1730:7.5
1800:7.5
1830:7.5
1900:7.5
1930:7.5
2000:7.0
2030:7.0
2100:7.0
2130:7.0
2200:7.0:Lights off

Kindly advise how best to dial in the CO2 as the pH change has not happened within the lights on time...it started at about 2.5 hrs from CO2 on...so would it be inject more CO2 or else less surface agitation maybe....I hope you have enough details and let me know if something is not clear...tried to keep videos as short as possible as well.

This is the link for the videos as I could not upload them here..if you can copy and paste into a browser to watch them pls.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/NBP5x6KpTry5r5lg2

tks a lot


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## techfool (27 Nov 2017)

EmannAquarium said:


> hi techfool...what would be the signs to look out for in the filter pls...and also what would be your recommendations for my list....the current one is:
> 
> 1xbala shark (10cm long)
> 1xrainbow shark (6cm long)
> ...


You're limited by the rainbow shark. They are obnoxious to other fish, particularly slower moving ones.  You need to build you aquarium around that. Is the leopard catfish a cory? Cories need company, and they are more fun to watch in bigger groups.  I don't know the other fish to have an opinion.


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## ceg4048 (27 Nov 2017)

Hi Emann,
                   Thanks, yes, it was a restful weekend. Weather was nice as well, which is always a bonus at this time of year at my location!

OK, I've had a look at your videos and the flow & distribution appear to be really good. If anything, it might be a bit much for high finned fish like your angels. I don't think they appreciate high flow as they originate in slow moving waters, however, those in the video seem to be moving about quite willingly. The tetras, on the other hand seem to congregating on the far right side of the tank. It may be that you can do without the wavemaker. I like the placement and ripple of the water surface by the spraybars. That looks fine to me. I can see movement even in the lowest carpet plants but because of the placement of the wavemaker I'm not sure if the flow at that location is moving from front to back, as it should be, or whether the movement is due to collision of flow between the spraybars and the wavemaker, which would be bad in the long term.

That pH profile looks absolutely horrible. Are you saying that the CO2 goes on at or before 1500? That is unbelievable. 
Something is seriously wrong.
The pH you show at 2000 is the value you are looking for to happen at lights on (1700).

So you mentioned that you have a DIY inline diffuser into one spraybar and an Up inline diffuser into the other spraybar correct. From what I read, Up Atomizers are highly regarded and I don't know anything about your DIY unit, but I reckon you must have a gas leak somewhere or a kinked gas line. There is no way it takes 5 hours to drop the pH by 1 unit.

After checking for gas leaks the only thing I could suggest is to check the working pressure of the Up Atomizerand to slowly increase the injection rate. Perhaps you can provide more information about your DIY. Also if you can provide a schematic or annotated photos of your gas injection circuit we might be able to troubleshoot more effectively.

Cheers,


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## EmannAquarium (28 Nov 2017)

hi Ceg4048....wow seems im still a long way to go to achieve that 1pH drop...so...

flow we seem to be ok...I can reduce the speed of the powerhead to 20% (currently at 40%) and maybe point it more towards the front to ensure it compliments flow of spraybars back to front.

correct on the pH...CO2 on at 1500...lights on at 1700...no drop in that time whatsoever...I am attaching a schematic of the CO2 setup...the DIY is a simple clear plastic tap sealed at both ends with a 50mm ceramic diffuser in it...a hole to attach the CO2 pipe and outflow and spraybar connections...all is beneath water level so in case any leaks are present gas or water are still being carried in the flow of the spraybar then....during CO2 on i can see bubbles coming out and in front of both spray bars at a good rate as well achieving the soda like effect.  There is a main line from the CO2 cylinder regulator - bubble counter - splitter with both ends having seperate valves and out to the diffusers....count rate in bubble counter is quite fast...no way to manage to read bubbles per second.

I will later on check for any kinked line...as for leakages, i had the unit checked at the supplier on filling the cylinder up....

I will then wait for any other hints from your end before trying to increase injection rate...hope i manage to nail this one right...as this should hopefully conclude this project and then proceed to tank maintenance.

once again appreciate a lot your interest and assistance.


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## ceg4048 (28 Nov 2017)

Hi Emann,
                OK, well, looking at the schematic, there are a few places where there could be leaks. No movement in pH for 2 hours means that the CO2 lines are not being pressurized properly. It's not that I distrust your supplier but something may have happened when you made the connection to the cylinder, or when you made connections to the other components.

First, make sure that the main cylinder valve is turned fully open to ensure that you are getting the full pressure (40 bar or more) from the cylinder.
When you open the needle valve the working pressure should be around 2 Bar or so. I don't have exact numbers for all setups, so these are just typical numbers.
If the working pressure is insufficient then atomizers such as the Up unit will not function correctly. I think 2 Bar is the minimum.
There should be a fine mist coming from that spraybar that the Up is connected to. If the bubbles are large then that means it is not functioning and that indicates the working pressure is too low.


I'm sure you have washing up liquid in the kitchen? Mix a little with water and either put some in a spray bottle or use a small paint brush and apply to ALL connections, including the entire regulator, the entire bubble counter and the entire splitter. Any leaks at these connections will show up as bubbles. You can also paint or spray on along the actual CO2 tubing itself to see if there is a puncture or crack in the line.

Also, what is the KH of your water? That will affect your pH reading.
Are you using Bromothymol Blue for your pH test readings.

Not doubting you but in a case like this, one has to question every aspect...

Cheers,


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## EmannAquarium (28 Nov 2017)

hi ceg4048...no worries on doubting me...it is infact what i want to ensure I am doing things correctly with the help of others more experienced then me.

can you please have a look at the attached....took it just now....high pressure reads shy of 5 bar...low pressure is 0.28bar...pls look at the flow and the way co2 is exiting from the bubble counter...it is quite visible i hope.

i look for your critique on this before i start checking for leaks....hardness reading with test strip is 8dkH....pH tester is the standard JBL test...the solution that came with it...looks more of a reddish colour i think.

look forward for help as I am starting to scratch my head a bit....seems it is going to take longer to dial in then i thought but will keep following suggestions...

https://photos.app.goo.gl/UtkXhgDWVlQBQsuA2

tks a lot


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## ceg4048 (28 Nov 2017)

OK, no worries.
I can't quite make out the bar scale (sorry, poor eyesight) but I can just make out the inside scale which reads in PSI on that low pressure gauge. It looks like about 40PSI(?) which should be sufficient for the UP. The video clearly shows the bubble counter action...soooo....there must be a leak at the bubble counter or downstream of it. There may be multiple leaks. There is no way that much gas, pumped into the tank, has no effect on pH for 2 hours.

Please go ahead and check for leaks all along that circuit.

The following is all just guesswork, OK?

It could be possible that there is a pressure drop at the splitter and that the inlet pressure at the UP is too low because some of it is diverted to to the DIY line.
If there is no mist coming from the spraybar connected to the UP then that should indicate a problem with the UP. The DIY could be stealing the pressure needed for the UP to operate correctly.

Would it be possible to disable the DIY line? I think the splitter should have a shutoff for each of the channels?  If not then perhaps you can use a spare length of CO2 tubing and plumb it directly to the UP and bypass the DIY?

The problem with large bubbles is that they have a very high bouyancy so if the DIY is running and spitting out large bubbles while the UP is not operating due to pressure loss, then the gas just comes out of the DIY spraybar and exits the tank quickly without having a chance to dissolve properly. That _could _explain the slow pH drop.

Maybe someone who owns an UP can chime in here but I'm fairly certain that you should be seeing mist or fog coming from the UP line. That is the whole point of UP Atomizer.

Cheers,


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## EmannAquarium (29 Nov 2017)

hi clive....so i will go the route of checking for leaks ...

i was also thinking if I would switch off the filters and let CO2 on, I should be able to see the outflow form the diffusers similar to what is coming out of the bubble counter no...i may have an indication if this equates to similar flows maybe....the only thing is that the up diffuser has quite a dark cover which may not make it easy to see bubbles coming out of it...

i will also post the video on the co2 art forum maybe someone with experience with this equipment may comment on that type of flow out of the bubble counter.


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## jolt100 (29 Nov 2017)

Hi,  I have had problems with UP inline atomisers and bubble counters supplied by CO2Art which started leaking and giving a low pH drop even with a high bubble count. In all cases a real investigation with soap solution revealed the problems,  cracks in the body or joints of the UP,  they started to seal the joint on the "new" version which was originally intended to be able to break down for easy cleaning of the ceramic, and I have one which leaks through the sealed threads. One bubble counter leaked at the upper acrylic thread, even with new seal and PTFE tape. 

As Clive suggested go through each join and around each component and you'll probably find a leak.
Hope this helps 
John


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## EmannAquarium (29 Nov 2017)

hi clive and jolt100...i have made some soapy water and tested around regulator, bubble counter, splitter and lines....could not see any bubbles that may indicate a leak...

what i noted is that on the two way splitter that has seperate controls I had their respective valves opened just slightly...now I made just a quarter turn maybe and I can definitely see more CO2 coming out of the spray bars...could this mean something and shall i retest pH profile now....if this is the case and with no leaks evident where was all this pressure building up then as I can only think that flow through bubble counter is significant but I was then restricting it too much from the valves of the splitter...can this be the case maybe?

tks


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## ceg4048 (29 Nov 2017)

Hi Emann,
           Yes, I'm fairly certain that the pressure builds up along the entire circuit and perhaps coming out into the DIY reactor as large bubbles since this might offer a path of less resistance than through the UP. So it appears to take 2 hours to build up enough pressure to drive both or one of the reactors as we can see the pH start to drop after that. If there are no leaks in the lines then you should be able to resolve the problem with the splitter. You can play with the valves to get the drop but I would always start by opening the valves fully and reducing the injection rate. I would only turn one of them towards the closed position in order to balance the flow between the two sides. So for example if more gas was coming out of the DIY and not as much from the UP side then start closing the DIY valve. This should have the effect of reducing the total gas consumption. Total gas flow should be controlled by the needle valve on the regulator, not by having both splitter valves near the closed position.

In any case, that's the way I would approach use of the splitter. The instructions might say something different....

Cheers,


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## EmannAquarium (29 Nov 2017)

hi clive...this is making a change...at the moment i can see much more tiny bubbles in the aquarium by just the small mere turn on both valves of the splitter...pls see attached...most of the plants valisneria, java fern and the echinodorus are full of tiny bubbles on their leaves...any idea what is this...also at some time i can also note like bubbles being realeased off them...again what can this be...

in any case tomorrow i will adjust needle valve for total flow and then fine tune the flow from the splitter as per your advise...

great help as usual clive...seems i just learnt another thing on this setup....maybe let me know on the bubbles i asked above and shown in the picture.

will revert with further updates.


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## ceg4048 (30 Nov 2017)

Hi Emann,
              This is really good news. Some of the bubbles of course, are the CO2 bubbles which adhere to the surface of the plants. This is excellent because the CO2 bubbles that stick are absorbed by the leaves in much greater quantity than if the gas were dissolved in the water.

The bubbles that you see being ejected from the leaves are Oxygen bubbles. Of course, this is good for your fish and for the aerobic bacteria in the filter, water and sediment.

All the Oxygen that in in our planetary atmosphere was put there by plants, who absorb CO2 and remove the Oxygen from water (H2O). Plants use the Hydrogen from the water (H) and use it to power important reactions that allow them to turn the Carbon from CO2 into a type of sugar called glucose.

When you eat a fruit, such as oranges or figs, the sweetness contained in the fruit is due to the sugar that the plant created from CO2.

We refer to these bubbles as "Pearling" because the little Oxygen bubbles reminds us of shiny pearls. As the plants release the Oxygen, the water surrounding the leaf becomes saturated with Oxygen and this gas no longer can dissolve in the water, so it escapes as bubbles.

So this tells us that we are on the right track because one of the ways we determine the efficiency of CO2 and nutrient usage is by the amount of Oxygen being produce by the plant.

Let us know how it goes, but again, be careful to monitor the health of the fish as you make the adjustments.

Cheers,


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## EmannAquarium (30 Nov 2017)

ok Clive..tks a lot..yesterday I knew that something was on the right track with the change that happened after I noted the valves of the splitter and opened them slightly more...so I guess at this stage I shall continue increasing the injection rate until I reach the 1pH drop in at least a 2hour period right? of course monitoring the fish continuously...

just for curiosity, what happens when the pH drops by 1..since the injection rate has been increased will the pH stop dropping at some point as I believe then disaster with the fish will surely happen right?


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## ceg4048 (30 Nov 2017)

EmannAquarium said:


> just for curiosity, what happens when the pH drops by 1..since the injection rate has been increased will the pH stop dropping at some point as I believe then disaster with the fish will surely happen right?


Well, Emann, you have just realized the problem facing all of us and now you understand the second half of the enigma which is CO2.
You must have an injection rate that will drop the pH by 1 or so within an hour or two, but if the CO2 continues to saturate the water after that too much, you will kill the fish.

Ideally, when the lights go on and within a half hour or so, the plants will start to uptake the CO2, and their use of the gas removes it from the water, so there is a balance of injection and consumption so that the minimum pH (maximum CO2 saturation) is at lights on and then the pH stabilizes (or only rises slightly) at that value throughout the photoperiod.

This all depends on the flow rate and the distribution techniques, as well as the mass of the plants in the tank. More mass means a greater consumption. So even if you get everything perfectly today, within a few weeks or so the plants grow, the block flow and they consume more CO2. Later, you may do a large trim and therefore reduce the mass. Now your injection rate is too much and the CO2 continues to saturate because there is less mass so the fish might suffer. So it's a never ending battle to ensure that there is enough injection rate but not too much.

That's why it's good to have a pH pen so that you can regularly monitor the performance, based on the pH indication and so that you can know when to reduce the injection and when it is necessary to increase it.

Cheers,


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## EmannAquarium (30 Nov 2017)

ok..very interesting and well noted clive...do you have any recommendation for types of pH pens that are not that much expensive pls...I am grasping the importance of monitoring this closely very well now.

also how do you recommend to proceed...increase injection rate until i achieve the 1pH drop for now only...what about the lights...i m still maintaining the heliolux at 80% luminosity for only 3 hours...should i start increasing intensity and duration as well pls.

since these two days of adjusting the splitter, i am noting brown/green algae on the front glass and sides of the filter housing...which type is this pls and what does this mean and how should one control it....

i know lots more questions sort of coming and hope I am not being pedantic with you but oh my if there is still a lot for me to learn.

thanks always for your interest and look forward for your replies of the various questions above.


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## ceg4048 (30 Nov 2017)

Hi Emann,
                Well the pens range from about 10 Euro at the bottom end to perhaps 150 Euro at the top. You certainly don't need to spend 150, but I also would try to avoid the units that are in the 10 Euro range. Check this post from another thread https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/the-green-reaper.49632/page-3#post-505569



EmannAquarium said:


> also how do you recommend to proceed...increase injection rate until i achieve the 1pH drop for now only...what about the lights...i m still maintaining the heliolux at 80% luminosity for only 3 hours...should i start increasing intensity and duration as well pls.


Well, first of all, you really ought not to be thinking about increasing the light, especially if you are starting to see algae. If anything, you should be thinking about reducing the intensity.

Well it seems that you injection rate is already quite high, isn't it? I would have thought that the best thing to do would be to open the splitter valves until the pH drop is achieved. You may actually need to reduce the injection rate. I trust the UP only because I'm familiar with other peoples experience with it, but I do not really have any data on your DIY reactor but as long as the UP is functioning correctly then it would be better to open these valve up toward the maximum and monitot the fish and pH drop.

I am not really sure what type of algae we are talking about. Really need to see pictures because they species of algae tells you what the problem is, so we need to identify the algae. Very often, we fix one thing and we realize that it was hiding another problem. The reason we did not see the other problem was because the thing that we fixed was a much bigger problem.

For sure, you need to physically remove the algae during the water change. We need to know if it is soft and slimy or rough and difficult to remove.

Cheers,


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## EmannAquarium (3 Dec 2017)

Hi Clive,

a wkend full of trials here...above all on your advise i also ordered a pH pen which should arrive by mid to end of week first of all.

kept the juwel heliolux at the same luminosity and duration so as not to increase either.  I have also opened full the splitter valves yesterday but did not manage to get any pH drop...today I also adjusted a bit more the injection rate and managed to get the first colour change at around two hours...at CO2 off, diffuser was also turning yellowish from the green colour as well.  The only fish that seemed to concern me are the rainbow fish...sharks, congo, angels, catfish seemed still happy but rainbows were at the surface towards the 4th hour of CO2 on....i would like to wait for the pH pen now before I adjust again in order to get a decent profile...what is your advise on this pleaseand is it ok to proceed like this??...by the way plants full of CO2 bubbles and pearling galore as per my query of a previous thread.

with the water change i also cleared the algae we spoke about from the front glass..very soft green algae and not difficult at all to remove....if i identified it correctly it could be due to low CO2...what do you think.

will keep you posted and await your feedback.


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## ceg4048 (4 Dec 2017)

Hi Emann,
                Oh-ohh, soft green algae on glass sounds like GDA which is not good news at all. Yes, it's a CO2/nutrient related algae and it can become a real problem. We'll need good photos to verify.


EmannAquarium said:


> .i would like to wait for the pH pen now before I adjust again in order to get a decent profile...what is your advise on this pleaseand is it ok to proceed like this??


Yes, just continue with this setting. Sometime it takes a few days for the fish to adapt to the higher levels of CO2. Keep monitoring the health and behavior of the rainbow fish. Hopefully, by Tuesday they will not be as affected  and will adapt. If their condition worsens then we will have to use a different strategy.

It's really important to continue the frequent and very large water changes. Don't forget to dose nutrition after the water change.

Are you also getting algae on the 3D background?
3D backgrounds are under suspicion of disrupting flow/distribution.
Ensure that you scrub and clean it when you do the water change.

Cheers,


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## EmannAquarium (4 Dec 2017)

Hi Clive...so as for GDA I have increased a bit the CO2 as advised in my previous post which I understand should help...also what about nutrients...I use and alternate LUSH/Neutro+ every month and dose daily the recommended mL/L of water...is this ok pls?  I also clean the background with every water change with a brush.

have a great week.


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## ceg4048 (4 Dec 2017)

Hi Emann,
                Be advised that there are some algae types that once triggered, do not simply go away just because you improved the conditions in the tank. This is a really important point to understand. 
GDA and BBA are two such types that are infamous for holding on to the tank with an iron grip.



EmannAquarium said:


> I use and alternate LUSH/Neutro+ every month and dose daily the recommended mL/L of water


Sorry mate, I have no idea what is LUSH. I also do not know the contents of Neutro+ so it's very difficult to troubleshoot, to analyze, or to give recommendations. I never use brand name nutrients because they are expensive and because I don't know what is in product unless the label or website specifies the content. It's also not clear to me why there is a need to alternate between the two.

I always suggest that you buy the dry powders and dose per the EI Article in the Tutorial section. This is how you become a more educated hobbyist. It's a very simple procedure and you will always know what you are putting in the tank. The dry powders are also much cheaper...you can even find these powders at your local garden center. There is nothing special about these brand name fertilizers. Some guy just dumps some of the very same dry powders into a bottle of water, paints a pretty picture on the bottle and charges you 10X what it would cost for you to do the same thing. I wish people would stop being hypnotized by brand name products that are not any better than what may already be in their garden shed or garage.



EmannAquarium said:


> I also clean the background with every water change with a brush.


What I'm trying to find out is if the background is actually getting algae and if so, what type? If so it is an indication that the background may be causing a disruption to flow/distribution.

Cheers,


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## EmannAquarium (4 Dec 2017)

Hi Clive...tks for the reply...

the algae on the glass is greenish and very easy to remove....the same i think is the one on the 3d background...pity i did not take photos before...so it means that this cannot go away and i will remain with it?

I am copying the description of the fertiliser products below...both of these I got after searching for fertilisers over here but I have gone rapidly through the tutorial you mentioned and oh boy what still i have to learn.

Lush Max is a complete  aquatic plant food mix containing everything your plants require including; Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, Magnesium and Trace Elements.

  Analysis % When mixed with 1 litre de-ionised water:
  N 1.33%, P 0.12%, K 3.88%, Mg 0.39%, B 0.01%, Cu 0.002%, Fe 0.11%, Mn 0.02%, Mo 0.002%, Zn 0.01%   

Neutro+ is a liquid plant fertiliser which provides trace elements *and* macro nutrients (NPK) for high tech planted aquariums.

In consideration that I still have quite some more volume of each remaining, would you recommend forgetting them and start EI or else I can finish these and then will proceed with EI.


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## ceg4048 (4 Dec 2017)

Hi Emann,


EmannAquarium said:


> the algae on the glass is greenish and very easy to remove....the same i think is the one on the 3d background...pity i did not take photos before...so it means that this cannot go away and i will remain with it?


No, it does not mean that it will never go away, it just means that it's very difficult to make it go away. Since we have not actually confirmed that it is GDA, then we don't really know what the situation is. If it does return then you will have the opportunity to take the photos again. If it does not return then you are in good shape.



EmannAquarium said:


> Lush Max is a complete aquatic plant food mix containing everything your plants require including; Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, Magnesium and Trace Elements.
> Analysis % When mixed with 1 litre de-ionised water:
> N 1.33%, P 0.12%, K 3.88%, Mg 0.39%, B 0.01%, Cu 0.002%, Fe 0.11%, Mn 0.02%, Mo 0.002%, Zn 0.01%


Yes, OK, but this is still irritating because they do not say what chemical they used to produce these percentages. Probably, to certify the product with the government, they need to specify the percentage of elements at that level, but without any more information it's very difficult for us to determine, for example, whether we are not dosing enough. So troubleshooting becomes difficult

1L of water weighs 1000g, so in that bottle, when brand new there will be 13.3 grams of Nitrogen - but we do not know how the Nitrogen is bound. They could have used  an NO3 salt to get the Nitrogen.
Nitrogen is about 22.6% of NO3, which would mean that 59g of NO3 was dissolved in the bottle.
So it is possible that they dissolved a simple salt such as KNO3. to get their 59g.
NO3 is about 60% of KNO3 so that would mean they added about 102g of KNO3 to 1L of water in order to produce 1.33% N.

But we do not know this for sure. They could have used a different salt, such as Ammonium Nitrate, or Urea, or they could have used some combination, in which case, our calculations are completely wrong.

It's a similar situation with P and K. We do not really know what salts they are using and we have to guess.

It's better to know exactly what we are putting into the tank, to practice the simple maths, and gain an to gain an understanding of what we are doing. We can always calculate percentages of N P and K from our dry salts, but we cannot be sure when we go in the opposite direction.

Besides that, 100 grams of KNO3 costs less than 50 cents!

In any case, If Netro+ is the same as LUSH then why are you using one and then switching to the other?
Why not just use the one that is cheaper?



EmannAquarium said:


> In consideration that I still have quite some more volume of each remaining, would you recommend forgetting them and start EI or else I can finish these and then will proceed with EI.


No, just continue to use it until it's finished. You've already spent the money, so I suggest to carry on.



EmannAquarium said:


> I have gone rapidly through the tutorial you mentioned and oh boy what still i have to learn.


Really? It's so easy. Your tank is 240L / 60 US gallons right? So just use 3X the dosing that the reference 20G would use. In fact, you could easily round to the nearest teaspoon. 
So 3X per week add 1 teaspoon KNO3 and 1/2 teaspoon KH2PO4
2X per week add 1/2 teaspoon Trace element mix.

That's all you need unless your water is low in magnesium and if so you could just add a few teaspoons of Epsom Salt at every water change.
How long will it take to learn that? 20 seconds or less.
Believe me, it much more difficult to read or write about it than to actually do it.

Cheers,


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## EmannAquarium (5 Dec 2017)

Hi Clive,

ok re algae...will monitor the situation and revert with photos on this.

as regards to fertilisers, what i meant is that you really never stop learning...and above all your description makes it very easy to learn...I had bought LUSH as it was cheaper but I understand that the powders are also even cheaper...will try to find sellers in europe for this for my next purchase then.

For now Im waiting for the pH pen to create a profile with the current setup...yesterday I noted the rainbows at the surface but they were there after a longer time...I hope this indicates their getting used to to this level of CO2.

I hope I am in contact with you soon with the PH profile then.

Thanks so much.


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## Edvet (5 Dec 2017)

My dutch seller probably can send you a package of ferts.


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## ceg4048 (5 Dec 2017)

Yes, there should be a few sellers that will ship, but worst case, if shipping costs prove to be a problem, you can always get the salts locally from any agricultural supplier. I found this outfit in Malta: http://www.ortismalta.com/contact-us.html but check the garden centers on the islands or even in Southern Italy. Anywhere there is farming, there will be these basic salts. Farmers use this stuff by the ton, so it's not difficult at all.

Cheers,


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## EmannAquarium (5 Dec 2017)

thanks to both...will look for these locally first...in the meantime if Edvet can provide a website of your supplier pls...

Clive...in relation to the origin of this post, I am close to getting the next and last set of 3 pairs of fish...would you have any recommendations...i am really after something particular like those two Nanochromis in your thread of the EI dosing...although I know they are not compatible with my tank...just as a reminder I know have 1 bala and 1 rainbow shark, 4 rainbow fish, 6 congo tetra, 1 leopard catfish, 2 koi angels....any ideas maybe...and of course I hope to be able to source them locally...

cheers.


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## ceg4048 (6 Dec 2017)

Hi Emann,
                Well really, I would suggest that you stay away from the Nanochromis because you would probably never see them. They would just hide. If you want a start on dwarf chiclids the best option would be the standard Kribensis, which are colorful, do grow bigger and are a bit more outgoing.

Also have a review of the suggestions @sparkyweasel provided in earlier posts regarding various types of rasboras.
Honey gouramis are also nice.

I must admit that I'm not a fan of boisterous fish. For me, a planted tank evokes visions/feelings of peace and harmony, so I prefer colorful but calmer species to match these ideals. Of course that's just an opinion. It all boils down to one's personal preference of a fish tank with plants in it or a planted tank with fish in it.

Cheers,


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## EmannAquarium (6 Dec 2017)

tks clive...and btw today I have the pH pen...so later on will try to calibrate it and then hopefully will be providing you with the first results of the profile...from there we see how to get along.

you are super helpful...will keep you posted.

tks


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## EmannAquarium (10 Dec 2017)

Hi Clive...hope u r doing well.

Below is the pH profile taken over two days with the pH pen:

Day 1:
1500 7.7
1530 7.2
1600 7.1
1630 6.9
1700 6.9
1730 6.8
1800 6.8
1830 6.8
1900 6.7
1930 6.7
2030 6.7
2130 6.7
2200 6.7
2230 6.7

Day 2:
1500 7.7
1530 7.2
1600 7.1
1630 7.1
1700 6.9
1900 6.8
1800 6.8
2000 6.7
2100 6.7
2230 6.7

If you remember we had lowered duration and intensite of day light for the juwel heliolux...at the moment the setup is:

Dawn 1600-1700
Sunrise 1700-1830
Daylight 1830-2130 Luminosity here was reduced to 70%.
Sunset 2130-2330
Dusk 2330-2355

So..what do you think of the pH profile pls...bubble rate is significant as shown before...I am not sure if others can advise if this is normal with this size of tank and it is no where near the 2 or 3 bps for sure. Apart of that I have never seen the plants in such glory...full of bubbles and pearling galore...

The other thing..should I start considering adjusting the light profile now as well in order to give more duration and luminosity for the daylight time pls.

Thanks for your help as always.

Have a great day.


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## ceg4048 (11 Dec 2017)

Hi Emann,
                 Glad to hear that you have your pH pen and thanks for the profile data.
I'm not really sure about dawn and surise and so forth as it relates to the gas and percent power, but from a previous post in the thread it seems the gas goes ON at 1500 and the lights first come on at 1700?
This seems to correlate to the pH values in the list. So this is good, even though it continues to fall a little beyond the initial lights. I don't think this is much of a problem and I would not change anything for a few weeks.

If I were you, I would not be in a hurry to increase the lighting. It requires several weeks for the CO2 mechanism in plants to stabilize and you also need to increase the amount of plant mass, so they need to grow and add more calories before making a change. As their mass increases you will see that the pH will not continue to fall as much from 6.9 to 6.7.

I'm afraid that 2-3 bps on this size tank is pure fantasy, and the only way that will happen is if you turn the lights down to very, very low.
I think you will have to start planning on how soon you will have to change the bottle or how soon to get it refilled. 
Sorry, I did not promise you that success would be "gratis" Emann. This is the price you must pay, unfortunately. I hope CO2 is not expensive in Malta.

Remember to cut the stems if they grow too quickly because they will have a tendency to interrupt the flow, so you must keep the aquascape clean, for now.

In any case, please leave everything as is for the next few weeks. If you add more light you will soon find that you will need to add more CO2, so if the plants are healthy and pearling then leave them alone. If you do choose to add more light then please only do so by adding a few percentage points. Adding CO2 is like driving a Ferrari at high speed on the motorway. A very minor mistake can cause a major crash, so I advise patience.

Cheers,


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## EmannAquarium (11 Dec 2017)

Hi Clive,

thanks for your reply...and yes I fully agree with you to keep the current settings then and see how it goes from here.

I reckon the best way forward after keeping these settings now is to ensure correct pruning of the plants to maintain flow....in these past few days since I noted pearling there is the vallisneria that is crazy going all over the surface of the tank...just not sure if i should just cut its leaves at the water surface and leave it to grow again or if there is some other form of pruning for this....during this weekend I also noted the bolbitis and the anubias pearling as well...the latter has two new leaves growing which have an amazing green colour.

CO2 is about €10 each refill...its a cost but not that expensive and i think the reward for looking at my tank in these past few weeks after especially following your guidance in this thread is more than worth it....after a full day at work it is mostly relaxing to sit in front of the aquarium after dinner and wind down with such a relaxing view of plants, fish, harmony and tranquillity.

All the very best and feel honoured to have had your assistance here.....I will report back once and if I start increasing the luminosity of the juwel to see how it goes...for now the tank will remain as is.


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## ceg4048 (11 Dec 2017)

Hi Emann,
                OK, that's a good plan. As far as the Vallis, you can simply cut them to the height you desire. You can also trace the particular leaf that is misbehaving down to the base and cut it off there. Some people like the effect of the Val draped over the top and if controlled, they can look really nice and help to block some of the light. 
Vallis however, can easily grow out of control and you may find that you are constantly having to prune. If you don't like this idea then it is better to remove them and to get something else.

There is a Tropica plant that looks almost like Vallis and which is much more manageable, called Helanthium Vesuvius. Not sure if you can get it locally, but maybe by mail order.



Cheers,


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## EmannAquarium (20 Dec 2017)

Hi Clive,

hope all is well.

a small update over the past ten days...I have left the aquarium as discussed but I wanted to show you the algea I am getting on the glass of the aquarium.

I have specifically not cleaned it from the glass in the last weekend water change so that it would be more emphasized in the photos I wanted to send to you...please note the attached..I have increased a bit the colour to make it more identifiable...it is greenish and very easily removed....can you advise what type it is and possible solutions to minimise or preferably eliminate it.

Look forward for your reply as usual.

Regards.


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## ceg4048 (20 Dec 2017)

Hi Emann,
              Looks like a type of diatom and it attacks newly set up tanks. It appears on my monitor as mostly brown, not green. It's very difficult to determine whether it was triggered during the last 10 days or prior to that. Again, there are only a few causal factors regarding algae in our tanks, too much light being the most prominent. Also, you should be measuring another pH profile as before to see if something has changed,

If it is green as you mentioned in your post, and not brown, as it appears on my computer screen then it might be BGA. Take out a sample on your finger and smell it. If it is green and if it also smells foul then it is BGA, which means a shortage of NO3.

I'm not sure looking at the photo, but it appears that some of the plants are covered with dirt and some leaves even appear to have GSA. When you do your water changes you should clean this debris off of the leaves and from the stems as any dirt or coating prevents CO2 and nutrients from penetrating through the leaf membrane.

Water changes involve more than just changing water. Algae infected leaves and dirt have to be cleaned and removed from the tank.
Also check you filter to see if it needs cleaning.

Cheers,


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## dw1305 (21 Dec 2017)

Hi all,





ceg4048 said:


> Looks like a type of diatom


Diatoms for me as well. 

cheers Darrel


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## EmannAquarium (21 Dec 2017)

Thanks...so will do a pH profile again...I do not reckon that this happened in the past 10 days...for me it is the same type I had described in a previous post and I thought better to leave it there to have some pictures for you to assist me with it.

I took out a sample on my finger, as i said very easy to clean with an aquarium glass cleaner, and although there is an odour it is no real bad smell coming from it...so if this seems diatoms what path should i take pls.

As for cleaning the plants, i did not do this as yet...is it just a matter of wiping the leaves with my fingers or is there some other way please.

I wash the filter material in aquarium water alternatively each week with the water change...is this enough or should i increase this then.

Finally, please look at my java fern as attach (not the best of photos!!)....there are some leaves having smaller leaves coming off of them...how can I propagat these if possible.

Thanks for all your help.


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## ceg4048 (21 Dec 2017)

Hi Emann,
                Diatomic algal blooms can be annoying even when you have already fixed the root cause. The only options are to continue frequent large water changes and to continually clean it off of the glass and eventually they go away if the plants continue to improve their health. I thought you mentioned some time ago that you had intended to increase the light. If you had done so then as always, consider reducing the intensity and that will help you to eliminate the bloom.

Regarding the ferns, just let them grow where they are and when you find a preferred location to mount them take them off the main plant and tie them to the selected spot. Very easy.

Cheers,


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## EmannAquarium (22 Dec 2017)

ok Clive...will rather not touch anything then and continue cleaning as necessary...I still also maintained same lighting intensity and program as per your previous advise...as at the moment plants still look healthy and growing well and fish accustomed too to this level of CO2.

On the ferns ok as well...will leave them to grow a bit more and then cut them from the leave to replant.

One final thing I asked is if cleaning the leaves with the fingers from diatoms is ok and if my cleaning regime of the filter media is ok as well...appreciate your input.

Best wishes.


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## ceg4048 (22 Dec 2017)

Hi Emann,
                  Yes, manual cleaning of the leaves with the fingers is a really good idea. Have a look at this post https://ukaps.org/forum/threads/algae-problems-help-please.6331/page-2#post-72428
CO2 and Oxygen have a difficult time moving through water, so from the moment plants are submerged, they are at a severe disadvantage breathing. Whne algal spores, detritus and other debris covers the leaf surface the plants experience even more difficulty breathing, so during the water change, take the water level down as low as the fish will tolerate and allow the plant to dry out a little. With your fingers, wipe the slimy coating off of the surfaces of the leaves as much as you can without damaging them. Weak leaves will break off, of course, but this is OK. All leaves severely affected by algae should be removed as they actually encourage more algae.

As far as the filter, it really depends on how much debris collects in the media. The more CO2 you provide, the more waste the plants will produce and you will be able to see how dirty the media gets. So typically, once a month filter cleaning is a good start, but if you check the filter and it is very brown and with lots of brown dirt you may increase the cleaning frequency to perhaps every 3 weeks. If there is not a lot of dirt then maybe extend the time to 5 weeks. It's very difficult to say exactly for each person or for each tank. The rate of dirt buildup within the filter should be used as a guide.

Cheers,


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## EmannAquarium (2 Jan 2018)

Hi clive..just back from a 3 day short vacation...aquarium looking great and diatoms seem in control...just thinking to keep every setting as is for now.

all the best for 2018 and tks for everything these past few weeks.


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