# Thinking of getting a Fluval G6 (media questions...)



## Gary Nelson

I'm thinking about taking the plunge and moving from my Eheim 2075 to the Fluval G6 - if anyone is running the G6 can you tell me can you add things like Purigen? is there compartments for things like this? from what I've been reading you have to buy all the media separate as well?

Any advice opinions on this would be great


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## sussex_cichlids

*Re: Thinking of getting a Fluval G6*

Hi Gary

Its a neat looking filter i like this it has very smart filtration process not bad price nether 

Have you looked at EHEIM professional 3 electronic this filter take it to a hole new level this is just so smart with USB connection to PC you can fine tune almost every detail of filtration process 

Have you seen this video Ehiem Pro 3e Review

Think filtration is going to change massively in 2012 with the Seneye and filters like the Ehiem Pro 3e were going to see some very smart tec hitting the market in next few years


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## GHNelson

*Re: Thinking of getting a Fluval G6*

Hi
Nice bit of kit.
One massive omission no heater within the filter.....that's a major faux paw.  
hoggie


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## George Farmer

*Re: Thinking of getting a Fluval G6*

I've ran a G6 for over 18 months. Best filter I've ever used. I've raved about this filter a fair bit on UKAPS and elsewhere.

It comes supplied with all the media you need.

If you want to add Purigen, you can, but the supplied chemical filtration cartridge does the same job. It is more expensive though, so use Purigen in the bio media baskets once it's exhausted, if you need to. I personally wouldn't bother, as once the tank is mature the plants perform all the chemical filtration you'll need.

The best thing about the filter is that it takes seconds to maintain due the the quick-release pre-filter. It's a purely mechanical filter so you can wash it under the tap by using the supplied cleaning brush. I clean the pre-filter with every water change. It's surprising how much crud it collects, even in a low-stocked tank.

The pre-filter is so good I only clean the bio media every 6 months. When I do there's virtually no solid matter blocking the pores.

I also really like the temp. and flow monitors. I know for a fact that an inline heater provides a much more stable temp. than an internal heater. I also know if I need to clean the pre-filter because the indicated flow drops via the monitor.

I also like the conductivity meter. I know that I need to change 'x' amount of water to prevent the dissolved organic matter and dosed nutrients etc. from creeping up, thus giving me a stable water chemistry.

Flow rate is great and build quality rivals, if not surpasses Eheim. It's in a totally different league to the other Fluval externals (hence the cost).  It's also certainly much easier to set up and maintain than Eheim. And it looks better too, IMO.

The lack of heater is a shame, and I've mentioned this to Hagen numerous times...

If you do get one, I don't think you'll regret it.


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## Antipofish

*Re: Thinking of getting a Fluval G6*



			
				George Farmer said:
			
		

> I've ran a G6 for over 18 months. Best filter I've ever used. I've raved about this filter a fair bit on UKAPS and elsewhere.
> 
> It comes supplied with all the media you need.
> 
> If you want to add Purigen, you can, but the supplied chemical filtration cartridge does the same job. It is more expensive though, so use Purigen in the bio media baskets once it's exhausted, if you need to. I personally wouldn't bother, as once the tank is mature the plants perform all the chemical filtration you'll need.
> 
> The best thing about the filter is that it takes seconds to maintain due the the quick-release pre-filter. It's a purely mechanical filter so you can wash it under the tap by using the supplied cleaning brush. I clean the pre-filter with every water change. It's surprising how much crud it collects, even in a low-stocked tank.
> 
> The pre-filter is so good I only clean the bio media every 6 months. When I do there's virtually no solid matter blocking the pores.
> 
> I also really like the temp. and flow monitors. I know for a fact that an inline heater provides a much more stable temp. than an internal heater. I also know if I need to clean the pre-filter because the indicated flow drops via the monitor.
> 
> I also like the conductivity meter. I know that I need to change 'x' amount of water to prevent the dissolved organic matter and dosed nutrients etc. from creeping up, thus giving me a stable water chemistry.
> 
> Flow rate is great and build quality rivals, if not surpasses Eheim. It's in a totally different league to the other Fluval externals (hence the cost).  It's also certainly much easier to set up and maintain than Eheim. And it looks better too, IMO.
> 
> The lack of heater is a shame, and I've mentioned this to Hagen numerous times...
> 
> If you do get one, I don't think you'll regret it.



Hey George, one of the things that worries me about this sort of filter is the cost of the replaceable parts.  I don't know a lot about the G6/G3's but from looking at the new Rena filter (which I am sure is not in the league of the G6) if you change the replaceable filter media on the regularity prescribed, it would cost a couple of hundred quid a year.  Whats the deal with this one ?


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## George Farmer

*Re: Thinking of getting a Fluval G6*

Simple answer - don't replace the media. Once the chemical media is exhausted you can remove the cartridge and run it without. Like I said, plants are great chemical filters...

I've replaced the pre-filter once in 18 months. If you clean it every week or so, and it only takes 30 secs from start to finish (you don't even need to turn off the filter), then it stays perfectly serviceable.

The bio media will last a lifetime.

Seriously, it's an awesome piece of kit. I'm sure any owner will agree.


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## Antipofish

*Re: Thinking of getting a Fluval G6*



			
				George Farmer said:
			
		

> Simple answer - don't replace the media. Once the chemical media is exhausted you can remove the cartridge and run it without. Like I said, plants are great chemical filters...
> 
> I've replaced the pre-filter once in 18 months. If you clean it every week or so, and it only takes 30 secs from start to finish (you don't even need to turn off the filter), then it stays perfectly serviceable.
> 
> The bio media will last a lifetime.
> 
> Seriously, it's an awesome piece of kit. I'm sure any owner will agree.




Sweet as.  Happy to take your recommendation   I will keep my eyes peeled for a bargain...


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## Quetzalcoatl

*Re: Thinking of getting a Fluval G6*

I can confirm that I am the proud owner of G6  

I think it was George who convinced me to take the plunge as I had doubts myself? Trust me, you won`t be dissapointed??

I can`t really add any more input as it has pretty much all been covered by George. But I will agree completely that the ease of maintainance, and the flow and temperature readings are massive bonuses. I was forever guessing with my Ehiem if the flow had dropped, and after using the G6 It is apparant that it most certainly would have, now I know when to carry out maintainance to achieve maximum flow rate at all times. I have also now been able to removed that ugly thermometer from the tank as the temperature reading is observed by the simple touch of a button. (I never get bored of the blue LED screen)  

After 5 weeks of running the filter I finally removed the media baskets to clean them. Shouldn`t of bothered. SPOTLESS....The 2 pre filters are housed in a large chamber that is seperate from the main Biological media. How the filter works is that it forces detrius to the bottom of the chamber avoiding any entering the main chamber where the media baskets are housed. Kind of difficult to explain? But as a Design Engineer I wet my pants when I first took it apart and examined the guts of it and realised this solution!!   

You will have to buy the Fluval Pre Filter. Roughly £20-£25. Weekly maintainance will ensure longitivity, and I use activated carbon in my chemical compartment. I just use the net bag supplied with the carbon and slot it straight in. I want to have a go with Purigen, but until I remortgage it will have to wait.  

The only grievance I have is that I had to remove my AM1000 reactor as it was just too restrictive of flow.   It`s a shame because I was loving the results I was getting from the AM. I have had to revert back to the UP Atomizer which I hate due to the mist it creates. Flow is back up to 100% though now so can`t complain to much. I just feel if I had gone for the FX5 I could of still used the AM. Never mind, as a gadget freak with a stainless and black gloss fetish it ticks all my boxes!

P.s George. Please explain the importance of conductivity. Or is that for another thread?


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## George Farmer

*Re: Thinking of getting a Fluval G6*

Liam, consider moving your diffuser onto the inlet side. It's what I've done and it's great.

I'll talk about conductivity tomorrow if I get time. Or try Google.


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## Antipofish

*Re: Thinking of getting a Fluval G6*

Hey Liam, surely if the reactor restricts flow on the G6 it would restrict it on anything ? How does it make a difference which filter you have?   Also, how much purigen do you need as I know a place I can get it a lot cheaper than most if not all


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## Gary Nelson

*Re: Thinking of getting a Fluval G6*



			
				George Farmer said:
			
		

> I've ran a G6 for over 18 months. Best filter I've ever used. I've raved about this filter a fair bit on UKAPS and elsewhere.
> 
> It comes supplied with all the media you need.
> 
> If you want to add Purigen, you can, but the supplied chemical filtration cartridge does the same job. It is more expensive though, so use Purigen in the bio media baskets once it's exhausted, if you need to. I personally wouldn't bother, as once the tank is mature the plants perform all the chemical filtration you'll need.
> 
> The best thing about the filter is that it takes seconds to maintain due the the quick-release pre-filter. It's a purely mechanical filter so you can wash it under the tap by using the supplied cleaning brush. I clean the pre-filter with every water change. It's surprising how much crud it collects, even in a low-stocked tank.
> 
> The pre-filter is so good I only clean the bio media every 6 months. When I do there's virtually no solid matter blocking the pores.
> 
> I also really like the temp. and flow monitors. I know for a fact that an inline heater provides a much more stable temp. than an internal heater. I also know if I need to clean the pre-filter because the indicated flow drops via the monitor.
> 
> I also like the conductivity meter. I know that I need to change 'x' amount of water to prevent the dissolved organic matter and dosed nutrients etc. from creeping up, thus giving me a stable water chemistry.
> 
> Flow rate is great and build quality rivals, if not surpasses Eheim. It's in a totally different league to the other Fluval externals (hence the cost).  It's also certainly much easier to set up and maintain than Eheim. And it looks better too, IMO.
> 
> The lack of heater is a shame, and I've mentioned this to Hagen numerous times...
> 
> If you do get one, I don't think you'll regret it.




Thanks for that in depth analysis George, I really appreciate that and guess what, you have persuaded me to get one!
You have answered allot of my questions especially on Purigen etc.  I have been looking around and most stores seem to be selling them at the same sort of prices - unless there is a store/dealer doing a better price?

I will be running my external 300w inline heater so it should suit it very well - I just need to find the best price now.

Thanks to everyone also with there opinions on this, some great advice as usual


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## George Farmer

*Re: Thinking of getting a Fluval G6*

Regarding the Purigen issue - I have been contacted by Hagen who tell me it is possible to pop off the lid of the supplied chemical media cartridge, remove the supplied media once it's exhausted and use your own.  

This is great news for those who wish to use carbon/Purigen etc. as you won't need to open up the main filter body.  The chemical media cart is a quick release; the same as the mech pre-filter.   

Enjoy!


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## Dan Crawford

*Re: Thinking of getting a Fluval G6*



			
				George Farmer said:
			
		

> Hagen who tell me it is possible to pop off the lid of the supplied chemical media cartridge, remove the supplied media once it's exhausted and use your own.


This is what i've done. Binned off the supplied carbon and swapped it for a sock full of purigen.


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## Quetzalcoatl

*Re: Thinking of getting a Fluval G6*



> Hey Liam, surely if the reactor restricts flow on the G6 it would restrict it on anything ? How does it make a difference which filter you have? Also, how much purigen do you need as I know a place I can get it a lot cheaper than most if not all



Hi Antipofish, I was refering to the pump capacity of both the G6, and the FX5. I believe the later has a higher turnover so If I had decided to go for this filter I could of taken the hit on the loss of flow if I had continued to use my AM reactor. My tank is 180ltr, with the G6 and the AM1000 flow dropped to around 50-60%!!!  



> Liam, consider moving your diffuser onto the inlet side. It's what I've done and it's great.


Do you not get a large build up of gas in the filter? The way that the AM is designed is for the injection of gas to enter the base of the chamber via the Co2 tubing. If I was to reverse the input/output of water surley the gas would just travel straight out of the reactor before diffusion?



> This is what i've done. Binned off the supplied carbon and swapped it for a sock full of purigen.


I have never used the fluval Chemical filter either? I just pop a sack full of carbon straight in there. 
How much Purigen does it take to fill the cartridge Dan, just out of interest?
As for the price Antipofish. Think I saw it for £35 for 500ml....


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## George Farmer

*Re: Thinking of getting a Fluval G6*



			
				Quetzalcoatl said:
			
		

> Liam, consider moving your diffuser onto the inlet side. It's what I've done and it's great.
> 
> 
> 
> Do you not get a large build up of gas in the filter?
Click to expand...

No.

The microbubbles produced from the (Up Aqua) inline diffuser travel straight into the filter and get completely dissolved before re-entering the water column. I've ran up to 4BPS with no cavitation, or build-up of CO2 gas.

It's a very good way of injecting CO2 IME.


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## Antipofish

*Re: Thinking of getting a Fluval G6*

Is there a link anyone has to the demo video of the G6 ?


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## Quetzalcoatl

*Re: Thinking of getting a Fluval G6*

Ahh, Sorry mate I thought you were refering to the AM1000 and the inlet!  
I will give that ago. I imagine the Mechanical Filter would act as a great method of diffusion? I had the UP Atomizer on the inlet of my Ehiem. It wasnt very effective, it did tend to accumilate alot of gas in there!

Antipofish. Heres the official video. Doesn`t really demonstrate the flow though! I`m sure there are other videos on Youtube. I would make my own video but have no video recorder!  
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LEsRncH6VM&feature=related


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## George Farmer

*Re: Thinking of getting a Fluval G6*

Google search "fluval g6 youtube"...


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## Quetzalcoatl

*Re: Thinking of getting a Fluval G6*

Without meaning to highjack the thread (sorry Gary) but what are others using on their outlets with the G6? Supplied spray bars, Lily Pipes, or other?


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## Gary Nelson

*Re: Thinking of getting a Fluval G6*

I will be ordering my Fluval G6 tomorrow    but I have a couple of questions before I use it...

My setup is that my existing Eheim 2075 has been running for around 14 months, so nice and mature... however the filter was transfered over to my new tank 3 weeks ago which has all new gravel, wood, rock etc.  When I setup the tank I did transfer over a few jug fulls off my old tank gravel and placed over the new, which I think has help the bacteria build up quicker?

The tank is 200 litres and my fish stock is:
10 Harliquins - 15 Rummynose - 4 ottos - 6 Angels.

1. When I add my new G6 filter is it best or possible add some of my Ehiem filter media?
2. Is it to risky to just remove my old filter and replace with the new one seeing as my current tank is so new?
3. I do not really fancy having both new and old filters running on the tank at the same time.
4. Could I bag all the Ehiem filter contents and just place in my tank for several weeks?

Any help/advice would be great as I do not want this to go pear shapped seeing as all is going great on this new tank so far....


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## GHNelson

*Re: Thinking of getting a Fluval G6*

Hi Gary
I assume the G6 comes with filter pads.
I would cut both new and old pads in half and use the mature half in your G6 this will seed your new filter.
Also you could squeeze the mature filter pads into the aquarium to help mature the system but this can be a tad unsightly for a few days.
I would go with the first option.... then you shouldnt have any problems.
Cheers
hoggie


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## Quetzalcoatl

*Re: Thinking of getting a Fluval G6*

I would of thought it would be fine to transfer all your current bio filter media to the G6. I did. I filled all 3 media baskets with my mature Eheim Substrat Pro. You will be supplied with the Fluval G-Nodes, I never bothered using them? 

There are no polishing pads with the G6. They are not needed, the Mechanical pre filter does such an amazing job they are just not necessary. 
I bet you can`t wait to get it delivered? I love mine, the water is so clear now, I can`t imagine it is possible to get it any more polished even with this Purigen I have ordered off Antipofish. We shall see?


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## Gary Nelson

Thanks for the advice so far - I am thinking of removing half of the G6's new media and just putting say half of my mature Eheim media in the G6, then in about 3 months remove the Eheim media and replace it with the rest of the remaining new G6 media.

Would this work or is it too risky this way?


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## George Farmer

That will be fine, especially in a healthy planted tank where the majority of bio filtration is done by the plants.


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## Gary Nelson

George Farmer said:
			
		

> That will be fine, especially in a healthy planted tank where the majority of bio filtration is done by the plants.




Cheers George   

Thanks to everyone else as well for the advice & tips - I checked my delivery status earlier from work and its been delivered...yippeeeee!!!


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## PeteA

Wish I had a bit of spare money to get one of these now   On a similar (but different) line, would it be better to put an UP atomiser on the inline tube of any canister filter?  Just thinking it might improve the diffusion in my tank - plus allow me to have both lengths of tube the same.


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## Quetzalcoatl

I have recently swapped my Up Atomizer onto my Inline as recommended by George. I have found that dissolution has been greatly improved, and all mist has been erradicated. However the bonus of doing this with the G6 is the pre filter shown in the link below. It is constructed of a very tightly woven mesh that will catch suspended debris entering it, including undissolved Co2 bubbles...  
http://www.fluval-g.com/mediaoptions_e.php#

I am experiencing a build up of air in the filter probably about 4hrs after Co2 commences. Up until then water is clear. It is ejected via the spray bar, which I am finding a little frustrating. I may try and reduce my bubble rate as I am probably pushing about 2-3 bps at the minute. 



> would it be better to put an UP atomiser on the inline tube of any canister filter?


I experimented with this on my Eheim 2026 a while back, It was not as effective as on the G6 for reasons explained above. I had a big build up of gas in mine and I feared that continous use in this fashion was going to damage the impellor, I could physically hear the bubbles being diced up...Probably not good if done for prolonged periods?



> I checked my delivery status earlier from work and its been delivered...yippeeeee!!!


Has it been set up yet? What do you think? Welcome to the G6 club.  "Flyin High, like a G6"


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## Gary Nelson

Quetzalcoatl said:
			
		

> Has it been set up yet? What do you think? Welcome to the G6 club.  "Flyin High, like a G6"



I have only had chance to open the box up so far as work has been manic! so far though, wow! it looks lovely and build quality fantastic too! very impressed.

I will be setting it up on Saturday and I am going to go with George's recommendation of putting my inline diffuser on the inlet as I'll be using my 300w hydor external heater on the outlet.  Needless to say I cant wait to get it set up and running


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## Ady34

Hi Gary,
i love my G6, so easy to clean and slick looking. Mine has been running for coming up 6 months now so im going to clean the bio media. Ive heard that they are remarkably good at keeping this section clean due to the efficiency of the pre-filter. Ill let you know.
I do also get a gas build up and ejection from my filter which is frustrating, especially as i dont inject c02 directly into the filter!.... must be drawing misting from the water column.
Hoping to see your new set up in the journal section in the not too distant future?  
Cheerio,
Ady.


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## Gary Nelson

Hi Ady

Yes I will be setting it up this weekend, can't wait! I will also be starting my new journal up very shortly as well   

PS, I was looking at you mini schnauzer photos you uploaded on here... Bowser looks great!  I uploaded pics of ours just under him


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## Stu Worrall

im so jealous of your filter!   would love to get one running on mine but the ex1200 is doing ok for now, cleaning is a pain though!  Looking forward to seeing it all setup


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## Ady34

Gary Nelson said:
			
		

> I will also be starting my new journal up very shortly as well
> 
> PS, I was looking at you mini schnauzer photos you uploaded on here... Bowser looks great! I uploaded pics of ours just under him



Ahh, Jasper is cool, cant beat the minis theyre great little dogs!
Good to hear youll be starting a journal, itll be good to see the white Juwel iwagumi.



			
				stuworrall said:
			
		

> im so jealous of your filter!  would love to get one running on mine but the ex1200 is doing ok for now, cleaning is a pain though! Looking forward to seeing it all setup



Stu, and Gary as your soon to discover, the G6 is soooo easy to clean, no undoing hoses or clips, no emptying filter chambers, no water everywhere, no pulling out filters from under the tank, just lift a flap, twist the pre filter, slide it out, give it a rinse (or swap for the spare you cleaned last week) and 'bobs your uncle, fannys your aunt'!!! 
Ady.


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## Quetzalcoatl

Well Gary.   

Don`t keep us hanging. What do you think?


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## Themuleous

Love mine, got it running on my marine tank and the easy clean mech cartridge is perfect for what I need. The temp gauge is also really useful.

Sam


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## Gary Nelson

Quetzalcoatl said:
			
		

> Well Gary.
> 
> Don`t keep us hanging. What do you think?



I think it is a fantastic bit of kit! and to be honest worth every penny - I can't get over how easy it is to remove the cartridge for cleaning and future maintenance - I'd go as far as saying its the 'apple mac of filters' a quality product   

I had a few queries as where to place the up-atomizer on the pipework, mainly when its on the inlet pipe and the distance form the filter etc - George was very helpful in taking a snapshot of his setup, which answerd my concerns so thanks again for that George.   

I would deffinately recomend the G6 to anyone thinking of getting one, not cheap as as it has been said on here before, but a great bit of kit.


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## Quetzalcoatl

Glad to hear you`re pleased with it. I knew you wouldn`t be dissapointed, hard too be really? Like you say, quality piece of kit.  

Care to share the knowledge in regards to atomizer placement. I have mine about 4/5 inches above the inlet on the filter, I seem to be getting quite a build up of gas in their. I would really like to eliminate this issue?


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## Antipofish

*Re: Thinking of getting a Fluval G6*



			
				Quetzalcoatl said:
			
		

> I would of thought it would be fine to transfer all your current bio filter media to the G6. I did. I filled all 3 media baskets with my mature Eheim Substrat Pro. You will be supplied with the Fluval G-Nodes, I never bothered using them?
> 
> There are no polishing pads with the G6. They are not needed, the Mechanical pre filter does such an amazing job they are just not necessary.
> I bet you can`t wait to get it delivered? I love mine, the water is so clear now, I can`t imagine it is possible to get it any more polished even with this Purigen I have ordered off Antipofish. We shall see?



Hi dude, are you noticing any difference with the Purigen ?


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## Quetzalcoatl

Initially yes, but after a few weeks I`ve noticed that come water change time the water clarity has started to diminish somewhat! I`ve also noticed that the Purigen beads are already showing signs of deteriation. I was expecting to get a good few months of use from it? 
I won`t be encouraged to swap from using regular carbon, don`t get me wrong, the Purigen was great for a week, or three but the difference in price is too much to warrant renewing/recharging every month. With the carbon I just replace every four weeks at little cost!


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## Antipofish

Quetzalcoatl said:
			
		

> Initially yes, but after a few weeks I`ve noticed that come water change time the water clarity has started to diminish somewhat! I`ve also noticed that the Purigen beads are already showing signs of deteriation. I was expecting to get a good few months of use from it?
> I won`t be encouraged to swap from using regular carbon, don`t get me wrong, the Purigen was great for a week, or three but the difference in price is too much to warrant renewing/recharging every month. With the carbon I just replace every four weeks at little cost!



They will carry on working until they are pretty dark, mine have changed colour a bit too, but still does a great job.  If yours have gone darker it could just mean there was more of the stuff that it pulls out in your water than mine, and I guess that would depend how long the tank has been set up.  For a tank thats been running a while I imagine the first period would be shorter, then you do one or two recharges and its at the stage of "keeping it clean" rather than "getting it clean", if you see what I mean.  How many litres is your tank and how much are you using ? I can't recall.  I have 300ml in 175L.  You only have to look at Mark Evans' and Ianho's tanks to see that it works well (in conjunction with other good aquarium practice of course )


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## Gary Nelson

So, how long should the chemical cartridge last then? I'm thinking that when this is exhausted, just popping 2 bags of purigen in, but I don't want to chuck the cartridge out to quick...


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## Antipofish

Gary Nelson said:
			
		

> So, how long should the chemical cartridge last then? I'm thinking that when this is exhausted, just popping 2 bags of purigen in, but I don't want to chuck the cartridge out to quick...



George would be the best person to answer that.  Whats in your chem cartridge ? Are they not just carbon inside ?

My G6 arrives soon


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## Antipofish

*Re: Thinking of getting a Fluval G6*



			
				Dan Crawford said:
			
		

> George Farmer said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hagen who tell me it is possible to pop off the lid of the supplied chemical media cartridge, remove the supplied media once it's exhausted and use your own.
> 
> 
> 
> This is what i've done. Binned off the supplied carbon and swapped it for a sock full of purigen.
Click to expand...


Hey Dan, thats exactly what I was thinking of doing when my G6 arrives.  Do you feel the Purigen does a better job than the carbon ? Or just a different one ?  Have you found the purigen has restricted flow at all being in there ?

Cheers


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## Antipofish

Ady34 said:
			
		

> Hi Gary,
> i love my G6, so easy to clean and slick looking. Mine has been running for coming up 6 months now so im going to clean the bio media. Ive heard that they are remarkably good at keeping this section clean due to the efficiency of the pre-filter. Ill let you know.
> I do also get a gas build up and ejection from my filter which is frustrating, especially as i dont inject c02 directly into the filter!.... must be drawing misting from the water column.
> Hoping to see your new set up in the journal section in the not too distant future?
> Cheerio,
> Ady.



Hi Ady, if my information is correct, fluval do two different grades of prefilter cartridge, the standard one supplied and a fine one.  Would using the fine one help with the above problem ? I see George posted earlier that he had no issue with his CO2 even at up to 4bps.  I am wondering which of the two cartridges he is using.  George, if you are reading this, perhaps you can comment?  I am intending to put my up atomiser in the same location as George and Ady (when i get it in a couple of weeks  ) so it would be good to know.


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## Gary Nelson

Gary Nelson said:
			
		

> So, how long should the chemical cartridge last then? I'm thinking that when this is exhausted, just popping 2 bags of purigen in, but I don't want to chuck the cartridge out to quick...



So guys, how long do you think the chemical cartridge should last?


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## Quetzalcoatl

Sorry mate. Don`t know, I never used it. I Just keep a netted bag with 200ml of Purigen in the chamber.


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## Ady34

Gary Nelson said:
			
		

> Gary Nelson said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, how long should the chemical cartridge last then? I'm thinking that when this is exhausted, just popping 2 bags of purigen in, but I don't want to chuck the cartridge out to quick...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So guys, how long do you think the chemical cartridge should last?
Click to expand...


Hi Gary,
i cant remember precisely but i think the carbon filter is supposed to be replaced every 3-4 weeks.
It does seem expensive given the price of new cartridges, but you can, as already said, simply pop the bottom off the chemical filter canister and add whatever you want... either add more carbon or any other type of filtration. I have done this and added 200ml of purigen and have had good results. If you do add purigen bear in mind if you buy the big tubs youll also need a purigen bag to put it in as it is so fine itll wash out of the fluval chemical cartridge!! You can buy the smaller pre bagged purigen which works out a little more expensive in the long run, but initially less outlay. My water always suffered from a slight milkyness which has now gone since adding purigen. The flow rate has not been affected at all.



			
				Antipofish said:
			
		

> Hi Ady, if my information is correct, fluval do two different grades of prefilter cartridge, the standard one supplied and a fine one. Would using the fine one help with the above problem ? I see George posted earlier that he had no issue with his CO2 even at up to 4bps.



Sorry for slightly hijacking the threat Gary, but in response to Antipofish, yeah they do two types of pre filter, and George may be using the fine type which in theory should reduce bypass of any type, helping to dissolve the c02 so you dont get a gas build up. Im using the supplied filter and decided to stick with it as it does a great job and there is very little 'dirt' bypass. I feel the fine type may be a little too fine and become clogged too quickly reducing flow and needing more frequent maintanence/replacement. Ive been alternating 2 pre filter cartridges weekly, and now after 6 months am finding they are clogging slightly faster than before and maybe need replacing.... im maybe being a little too fussy however as i like to maintain 100% flow as indicated via the in filter monitor. It would be interesting to find out from George himself though, as im unsure as to why i get a continual gas build up without even having an inline diffuser.

P.S. How's the new set up going Gary?
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Antipofish

Ady34 said:
			
		

> ... simply pop the bottom off the chemical filter canister and add whatever you want... either add more carbon or any other type of filtration. I have done this and added 200ml of purigen and have had good results. If you do add purigen bear in mind if you buy the big tubs youll also need a purigen bag to put it in as it is so fine itll wash out of the fluval chemical cartridge!! You can buy the smaller pre bagged purigen which works out a little more expensive in the long run, but initially less outlay. My water always suffered from a slight milkyness which has now gone since adding purigen. The flow rate has not been affected at all.
> 
> Ady, is there any reason why you cannot remove half of the carbon (and keep it for next time) and add purigen, thus having two different types of chem filtration in the cartridge ?  I am assuming that if 100% carbon in there OR 100% purigen in there does not reduce flow, then 50% of each will not either.
> 
> As an aside, you don't have to splash out on a filter media bag, you can use 40denier (or above) tights, cut to size and sealed at both ends with a cable tie, although you have to remove the purigen from the tights to a tub to recharge.  I bought two D&D fine filter media bags for a fiver as it will make it easier though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Antipofish said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Ady, if my information is correct, fluval do two different grades of prefilter cartridge, the standard one supplied and a fine one. Would using the fine one help with the above problem ? I see George posted earlier that he had no issue with his CO2 even at up to 4bps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for slightly hijacking the threat Gary, but in response to Antipofish, yeah they do two types of pre filter, and George may be using the fine type which in theory should reduce bypass of any type, helping to dissolve the c02 so you dont get a gas build up. Im using the supplied filter and decided to stick with it as it does a great job and there is very little 'dirt' bypass. I feel the fine type may be a little too fine and become clogged too quickly reducing flow and needing more frequent maintanence/replacement. Ive been alternating 2 pre filter cartridges weekly, and now after 6 months am finding they are clogging slightly faster than before and maybe need replacing.... im maybe being a little too fussy however as i like to maintain 100% flow as indicated via the in filter monitor. It would be interesting to find out from George himself though, as im unsure as to why i get a continual gas build up without even having an inline diffuser.
> 
> Either cartridge is a "no bypass" essentially, its just the microns that filter out more or less depending on the size of it.  Im sure thats what you meant but it read as though the standard prefilter allowed bypass of the water.   It might be worth flicking George a PM to ask on this score though, as I think it could be that it is this which makes the difference.  I like the idea of alternating.  You are probably right about the finer prefilter requiring more frequent changes, but I don't see that as a problem.  As you know, it takes a matter of seconds, and thats one of he HUGE appeals of this filter and why I have one arriving (either today or tomorrow I hope).  I am very fussy about water quality and hate murky water of any kind.  The clarity that some members on here, who do not need naming, are achieving in their water is inspiring and what I want to have in my own aquarium also
> 
> P.S. How's the new set up going Gary?
> Cheerio,
> Ady.
Click to expand...


PS I am sure Gary is happy for these tangents to be discussed as its all part of the learning curve on a G6, and this thread is becoming a great resource for anyone else thinking about getting this filter


----------



## George Farmer

I use the regular pre filter. The fine type does restrict flow quite quickly.

If I want to polish the water for photo shoots I add carbon to the supplied chemical cartridge.


----------



## Antipofish

George Farmer said:
			
		

> I use the regular pre filter. The fine type does restrict flow quite quickly.
> 
> If I want to polish the water for photo shoots I add carbon to the supplied chemical cartridge.



Cool.  Any reason you don't run carbon in there all the time G ?


----------



## George Farmer

Needless expense. Simple as that mate.


----------



## Christie_ZXR

Thought I'd ask on this thread since it's full of useful tips about the G6. (Hope no one minds!)

Just got myself one, and had a bit of a job with setting up yesterday. I have bought second hand, so I'm slightly worried I've got a dodgy one, although the seller assured me it was nearly new. 

The two problems I've had were the button to get the flow working initially wasn't having any of it, it pushed down, but didn't pop back up so you could push it again. Eventually got it going, and it's now buzzing at me slightly. It's not an air in the filter buzzing I don't think, just more of a mechanical hum. Is that normal? Or do I need to worry? Set it up last night, and it's got the media from my old fluval in it to seed it.

Initially, I didn't fill the canister enough and it did tell me off! (I love that I have a filter that tells me off for getting things wrong!   ) but I corrected that, so not sure if that's caused the problems.

Hope I don't have a dodgy one! It's all set up now and I really don't want to have to give it back!


----------



## Quetzalcoatl

Hi Christie.

I had an absolute mare when trying to prime mine when it was rigged up to my AM1000 reactor. I nearly broke my thumb trying. I had to resort to filling the canister to the max, then filling the tubes from the spraybar/inlet end. Pain in the a***  

I no longer run the AM1000 due to this issue, and reverted back to my UP Atomizer. It now primes like a dream. I always top the filter up with tank water before powering up, just to take a little stress off the pump, but I`ve done this with every filter I`ve owned. I have never been lucky enough to witness a single push to prime scenario.  

As for the hum! I have noticed that after carrying out maintenance on the filter the hum does become a little more noticable, but after a day or so it subsides. I don`t know about others, but I wouldn`t say my G6 is silent, the noise is there in the background, but it doesn`t bother the missus so it isn`t an issue for me!

Welcome to the club.


----------



## Ady34

Hi Christie,
my G6 is in no way silent and there is an audible hum, rather than a buzzing which i can hear in a silent room so it could just be that.
With reference to the prime button, im sure my retailer once showed me a list of problems and how to overcome them and the prime button not depressing/releasing was one of them and its either a seal or spring that you can replace. Luckily for me ive a drilled base tank so gravity self primes mine so i dont have to use it. I sometimes give it a push though to release trapped air and ive noticed it getting stiff and not returning quickly. Must be a common issue.
Ady.


----------



## Christie_ZXR

Quetzalcoatl said:
			
		

> Hi Christie.
> 
> I had an absolute mare when trying to prime mine when it was rigged up to my AM1000 reactor. I nearly broke my thumb trying. I had to resort to filling the canister to the max, then filling the tubes from the spraybar/inlet end. Pain in the a***



That sounds familiar!! That's pretty much what I ended up doing. "allow 45-60 minutes for setup" indeed! I was up till about 2am   


You can buy a whole replacement primer, could that be the bit? Might have missed it, but I can't see what else could be replaced on it :?: 

I guess I'll have to put up with the hum and hope it quietens down, glad it's normal. Can't close the cabinet door to shut it up yet, coz then I can't see my new toy!!   

Other than the drama of set up, have to say I'm very chuffed with it! Spent all morning today pushing buttons and getting excited about little graphs!!   

Just got to make some sense of the conductivity readings now. I can see how they'll be useful, but working back to figure out what the ideal readings should be is giving me a bit of a headache at the moment. I know I've been poo wih maintenence recently on this tank, so whatever they're reading now is probably far from ideal.

Just one more quick q, it comes preset with 14 days as the interval for cleaning the mechanical filter. In peoples experience, is that about right? I'm guessing the flow indicator will tell me off if it needs it sooner!    Just wondered what others found? 

Ta for the advice guys


----------



## Quetzalcoatl

> Just one more quick q, it comes preset with 14 days as the interval for cleaning the mechanical filter. In peoples experience, is that about right? I'm guessing the flow indicator will tell me off if it needs it sooner!  Just wondered what others found?



I usually give mine a quick rinse on every weekly water change, for the time and effort it takes it`s no hassle!
G6 will tell you to stop being lazy though when his digital flow diagram starts to slip! Quick bath in the sink, then good as new. I think this thread has been the catalyst for a G6 revolution. "Vive la revolution"


----------



## Antipofish

George Farmer said:
			
		

> Needless expense. Simple as that mate.



Thats a fair comment.  Can you shed any light on the comments some people have made about getting gas build up with their atomiser on the inflow ? I know you don't have that issue even at 4bps.  Just thinking about what I need to look out for when I get mine sorted as don't want to be wasting pipe etc when I cut it


----------



## George Farmer

Antipofish said:
			
		

> George Farmer said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needless expense. Simple as that mate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats a fair comment.  Can you shed any light on the comments some people have made about getting gas build up with their atomiser on the inflow ? I know you don't have that issue even at 4bps.  Just thinking about what I need to look out for when I get mine sorted as don't want to be wasting pipe etc when I cut it
Click to expand...

Not sure what's causing their issues. My inline diffuser is very near to the filter. This helps prevent the microbubbles from forming into larger bubbles in the filter hose, I assume helping prevent cavitation/"burping".

It's worth noting that the 4BPS quote is using the glass inline-type bubble counters. These produce smaller bubbles than most other bubble counters.  Currently I'm running 1BPS using a Fluval CO2 Bubble Counter, but have run up to 2BPS with no issues.  2BPS was enough CO2 for my 275 litre with moderate lighting.


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Thinking of getting a Fluval G6: Whats your screen like?*

G6 screen and Primer Unit :  

I have just bought a new G6 from someone who bought it and decided not to use it.  However, straight out of the box, I am not that impressed   Sorry for the poor image quality, I had to use the phone quickly to send an email to Rolf C Hagen (distributors for Fluval).

Firstly the red clip that attaches the prefilter to the priming unit is broken...





And secondly there is a mark on the screen (this is apparantly where the layers of plastic on the screen touch),  Although barely visible when illuminated, it is not aesthetically pleasing to see when the screen is not lit up.





The distributors are going to send a replacement clip hopefully, but have said the screen issue is common.  So, as there are other G6 users on here I thought I would ask (for as many responses as possible) if indeed, this is a common phenomenon.  Apparently half of the ones they have in their office are like this.  

And there was me thinking I had read that the build and design quality of these rivalled Eheim, and that their display was meant to be incredible.  Yet the distributors seem to claim visual impairment is normal for their "flagship" model.  

I just hope this filter lives up to its reputation in other aspects.

If you G club members could let me know what your screens are like that would be great.  Thanks.


----------



## Gary Nelson

Mines not like that, if it was it would be going straight back! Sounds silly but have you removed the display protective film?


----------



## George Farmer

Screens fine on all the models I've seen.


----------



## Antipofish

Gary Nelson said:
			
		

> Mines not like that, if it was it would be going straight back! Sounds silly but have you removed the display protective film?



Its a fair question, but yes


----------



## Quetzalcoatl

No problem with screen here either?


----------



## Christie_ZXR

My screen was like that initially, but it seems to have almost gone away now. I figured it was because I got it wet, and it was going as it dried, might be wrong though.


----------



## Antipofish

Christie_ZXR said:
			
		

> My screen was like that initially, but it seems to have almost gone away now. I figured it was because I got it wet, and it was going as it dried, might be wrong though.



Hi Christie, apparently it is where the two layers attach to themselves.  It could go away or it could remain.  If mine were to remain I would not be happy.  This is a flaship, top of the range product, with a price tag to match.  Thankfully it seems, Rolf C Hagen (fluval distributors) are arranging a replacement. And rightly so.  It would not fair well for their reputation if they were not interested in resolving this issue.

Interestingly, one of their Reps suggested attaching a sucker to the screen and gently pulling to detach the adhesion.  I tried this, gingerly, and it worked.  For ten seconds.  At which point the two layers then reattached themselves.  The second solution was to set the screen to remain on for 6 hours at a time instead of 3 minutes.  Again, not really a satisfactory solution.  

It is interesting that Hagen apparently have half the units in their office with this 'malfunction' (my own word for it). And yet the likes of George and others on here have not encountered it at all.  

Anyway, I will keep everyone updated. I hope to exchange this unit for the replacement next week sometime.

Thanks for your input everyone.  Lets keep chatting about this filter though, because I cannot wait to use mine.  It sure as hell looks awesome and if it works as well once all sorted, I will be a happy bunny.


----------



## Antipofish

Incidentally, I STILL really love the concept of this filter, so here is a link to a short advert for it which encapsulates it in a very elegant way.

Fluval G Short Advert


----------



## Christie_ZXR

Ah, that makes sense. Mine was constantly flashing alerts when I first got it, before I'd figured how to set the various settings, so maybe that's what cured it.

Incidently, does anyone have a link to an idiot's guide to figuring out conductivity?


----------



## George Farmer

Christie_ZXR said:
			
		

> Incidently, does anyone have a link to an idiot's guide to figuring out conductivity?


I'm no scientist but this is how I understand conductivity relates to us as aquarium owners...

It's basically a measurement of how much 'stuff' is in the water.

Absolutely pure water will have a conductivity of zero i.e. it won't conduct electricity.  The more dissolved minerals, organics etc. the more the water will conduct electricity. This is why saltwater is a great conductor of electrivity; because there's so much 'stuff' in there.

So softer water has a lower conductivity. Harder water has higher conductivity.

Discus typically come from waters in the wild with water measuring around 10 to 20 microsiemens, as an example.

Rift valley cichlids typically over 800.

Another useful aspect to measuring conductivity is that it's a guide of how much dissolved organics there are in your water. 

You can also use it as a guide for dosing nutrients, because adding more nutrients = higher conductivity.  As the plants use the nutrients then the conductivity should actually reduce, assuming organic build-up not not exceed nutrient removal.

Let's look at an example -

Your tap water is 750. A typical hard water supply. You use this as your aquarium water (no RO).

You don't dose any ferts or have any plants.

Every time you add fish food and the fish produce waste the conductivity will rise. Evaporation also cause a rise, as only pure water evaporate leaving minerals etc. behind.

Over the week it may rise from 750 to 850.  If you have limestone etc. in the aquarium it will also rise.  Anything that dissolves into the aquarium water will cause the conductivity to raise.

Because the rise is usually gradual, it's no issue for the fish etc.

I like to ensure the conductivity is roughly the same after every water change. This is a good indicator that the water parameters have been reset effectively. 

A common issue with a lot of fishkeepers is "old-tank syndrome", where dissolved organics, including nitrates will gradually increase over time.

The conductivity meter can be a useful tool to prevent this.

As suggested it can also be used to measure nutrient uptake but it's more complex due to organics being produced at the same time.

I hope that helps.

Cheers,
George


----------



## Ady34

George Farmer said:
			
		

> As suggested it can also be used to measure nutrient uptake but it's more complex due to organics being produced at the same time.





			
				George Farmer said:
			
		

> You can also use it as a guide for dosing nutrients, because adding more nutrients = higher conductivity. As the plants use the nutrients then the conductivity should actually reduce, assuming organic build-up not not exceed nutrient removal.



Hi George,
i have noticed this as gradually over the course of a week the conductivity rises, and immediately after adding ferts it spikes. Also if using buffers this causes a huge rise. A large conductivity rating is also not necessarily directly linked to the water hardness (both GH and KH) as ive found it possible to have low hardness and high conductivity which must be due to ferts, buffers and/or organic build up as you suggested. 
I was initially concerned with my high conductivity readings for my soft water fish, but have now accepted it to be more of an indicator as to other inputs. I have soft water with little alkalinity from the tap and buffer to get a kh of 3-4 for stability, yet when i do so i get a conductivity reading of 500 which rises throughout the week when adding ferts.
Do you feel that a gradually rising conductivity over a week due to ferts suggests adding too much, or is this normal?
Thanks,
Ady.


----------



## George Farmer

Gradual rise is entirely normal. I doubt many folk would see a decrease or even stable level. Remember that plants actually produce organic waste, as well as consume nutrients. To get an equilibrium would be a challenge and not necessary due to our water changes.  I do wonder what the conductivity would measure in a Walstad style setup with minimal water changes. It may remain relatively constant because nutrients are provided by soil and fish only.

My default is 350, rising to about 410 by day 7. 50% WC per week.


----------



## Antipofish

George Farmer said:
			
		

> Gradual rise is entirely normal. I doubt many folk would see a decrease or even stable level. Remember that plants actually produce organic waste, as well as consume nutrients. To get an equilibrium would be a challenge and not necessary due to our water changes.  I do wonder what the conductivity would measure in a Walstad style setup with minimal water changes. It may remain relatively constant because nutrients are provided by soil and fish only.
> 
> My default is 350, rising to about 410 by day 7. 50% WC per week.



George, you use RO water in your changes don't you ?  Do you use 100% RO, or mix it (in what proportions), and do you use any kind of buffer at all ?  My water parameters at the moment seem to be quite stable (no fish and 20% planting, which is about to change), with 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 20ppm nitrate, 8dGH and 3 dKH, 6.4 pH.


----------



## George Farmer

I mix 70-80% RO with 20-30% tap. No buffers or re-mineralisers. I could use 100% tap; have done for years previously, but I prefer to keep my tetras etc. in softer water.

As a side I'm not a big fan of testing or trying to achieve specific target values. Hobby-grade test kits are generally only suitable for spotting trends and by relying on them to hit target parameters you often do more harm than good. The majority of fish and plants will do great in most water supplies. What's more important is consistency via decent aquarium maintenance.


----------



## Ady34

George Farmer said:
			
		

> Gradual rise is entirely normal. I doubt many folk would see a decrease or even stable level. Remember that plants actually produce organic waste, as well as consume nutrients. To get an equilibrium would be a challenge and not necessary due to our water changes.
> My default is 350, rising to about 410 by day 7. 50% WC per week.



Ahh, thats reassuring, i have a similar rise during the week.



			
				George Farmer said:
			
		

> No buffers or re-mineralisers.



That answers what was going to be my next question.   



			
				George Farmer said:
			
		

> I mix 70-80% RO with 20-30% tap. No buffers or re-mineralisers. I could use 100% tap; have done for years previously, but I prefer to keep my tetras etc. in softer water.
> 
> As a side I'm not a big fan of testing or trying to achieve specific target values. Hobby-grade test kits are generally only suitable for spotting trends and by relying on them to hit target parameters you often do more harm than good.



I appreciate this statement, as misinterpretation and innaccuracies in testing can sometimes lead to uneccessary adjustments and remedies. 
However i feel that test kits have there place, without them hobbyists have no way of testing their tap water and adjusting it correctly where necessary. Surely hobbyist grade test kits must get results somewhere in the ball park?



			
				George Farmer said:
			
		

> The majority of fish and plants will do great in most water supplies. What's more important is consistency via decent aquarium maintenance.



Dont get me wrong, i dont get overly concerned with daily/weekly testing but i know from testing that my water is very soft from the tap. Combined with readings from buffered and unbuffered tap water conductivity readings from my G6, im sure my water is very soft. This enabled me to look into the recurring crypt melt issue posted in the plant sub forum and find that possible Mg and Ca deficiencies in soft water may result in crypt melt.... a conclusion strengthened after the increased health and prevention of further melting with the addition of sera mineral salts (Mg, K, and Ca) and Kh buffer... and your own experience of the addition of Mg and Ca in fertiliser mixes (which is a remineralsiser in itself?) If i didnt know my water was soft in the first place, i wouldnt have been able to pinpoint mineral deficiencies as a possible reason for my issues, and subsequently test my water to see if they had increased.
Consistency is certainly the key, but sometimes hobbyists do need also to consistently adjust to be able to achieve results with certain fish/plants such as your RO/Tap water mix to get softer water for your tetras. My water is just a little to mineral deficient for crypts and i love them too much not to have them.
Of course for most, tap water is fine and its only if you have extremes that you really need to be concerned about it, and with my water i feel i need a test kit or two!

Anyway, sorry for the little ramble, but the whole point in this is simply that a few weeks ago i had my crypt melt issue, it hadnt dawned on me at the time but id stopped buffering my water so over two weeks of non buffered tap water water changes my conductivity reading had dropped to sub 300 from 500. My crypts started melting and if id looked at the evidence given in bright lights on the G6, my water was drastically changing..... what i found later through testing and forum posting, to be the mineral content decreasing. Buffering, and now remineralising, the crypts are coming back and no longer melting.   

Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## George Farmer

Agreed. Kits have their place. Approximations to determine one's hardness, whether or not you have N and P present in your tap, and to test for NH3/4, NO2 during cycling/using Aqua Soil etc. Also handy to test if you have a big power cut etc. All these are recommended. Just don't rely on them to achieve exact parameters.


----------



## Antipofish

George Farmer said:
			
		

> Agreed. Kits have their place. Approximations to determine one's hardness, whether or not you have N and P present in your tap, and to test for NH3/4, NO2 during cycling/using Aqua Soil etc. Also handy to test if you have a big power cut etc. All these are recommended. Just don't rely on them to achieve exact parameters.



I hear you on this one George.  I too prefer to use them for trend indication or warning signs.  Interesting example is that the test kit shows my tap water as 7pH 8dGH an 6dkH.  (I use Sera Test kits).  With the 1.5cm of colombo florabase that I have underneath my Fine Samoa gravel, this has consistently indicated my water to be softer and slightly more acidic... 6.4ph, same dGH and 3dkH.  If this is at all accurate I am a happy bunny.  I have no intentions of mucking around to alter any parameters by marginal (and undoubtedly unmeasurable by a hobby test kit) amounts.  But as you and Ady both say, they are useful as "indicators".


----------



## George Farmer

I'm curious now; all this testing talk. I have some unopened ELOS test kits and might have a play, just for fun!


----------



## Ady34

George Farmer said:
			
		

> I'm curious now; all this testing talk. I have some unopened ELOS test kits and might have a play, just for fun!



Holy C**P George, if it aint broke dont fix it!
When things are going well and your consistent, testing may throw up a couple of surprises and get your mind thinking negatively.
Dont do it  
Ady.


----------



## George Farmer

Ady34 said:
			
		

> George Farmer said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm curious now; all this testing talk. I have some unopened ELOS test kits and might have a play, just for fun!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Holy C**P George, if it aint broke dont fix it!
> When things are going well and your consistent, testing may throw up a couple of surprises and get your mind thinking negatively.
> Dont do it
> Ady.
Click to expand...

Lol. Don't panic, I'm not about to change anything!


----------



## Ady34

Ha ha, 
maybe we should create a thread where members using different hobbyist test kits test a standard 4DKH water sample and share the results to see how varied/accurate the results are.
If you do have a play, just for fun, be sure to share your results and thoughts. 
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Antipofish

Heres a question on the conductivity readings...

I installed my G6 today.  The initial conductivity readings were 530.  After running for 6 hours they are now at 510.  Is this an indication that the prefilter has removed anything and cleaned the water up ?


----------



## Ian Holdich

you using Purigen?? as this will redeuce TDS.


----------



## Antipofish

ianho said:
			
		

> you using Purigen?? as this will redeuce TDS.



Funnily enough, no. The filter bag containing my purigen from the Eheim was filthy !  As was the filter wool pad.  I could not believe how dirty it was inside that filter, given it has only been running a couple of weeks.  Take a look here....






So at the moment I have not got purigen in there.  The chemical cartridge is full with carbon.  Tomorrow I intend to remove half the carbon, transfer the purigen into a clean bag, and put that in the chem cartridge.


----------



## Antipofish

OK, So, I have a question about using the chem cartridge.  Mine has a black cartridge containing carbon in at the moment.  If I want to run purigen in the chem section, do I take out the carbon from the black inner cartridge and put the purigen bag in that, or do I just discard the black cartridge (for reuse with carbon later if I want) and put the purigen bag inside the red outer cartridge, and then replace the top section ?  Thanks.


----------



## Ady34

Hi, 
pull black cartridge cap off, empty the carbon and fill with purigen in a bag, refit black cartridge cap, place in red outer carrier, bobs your uncle, fanny's your aunt.
Incidentally my G6 also has the same screen issue as yours, i lifted the protective cover and had a look. I thought it was just because of the cover seal, but its the actual screen.
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Antipofish

Ady34 said:
			
		

> Hi,
> pull black cartridge cap off, empty the carbon and fill with purigen in a bag, refit black cartridge cap, place in red outer carrier, bobs your uncle, fanny's your aunt.
> Incidentally my G6 also has the same screen issue as yours, i lifted the protective cover and had a look. I thought it was just because of the cover seal, but its the actual screen.
> Cheerio,
> Ady.



Cheers Ady.


----------



## Christie_ZXR

Ta for that conductivity info a few pages back! Very helpful 

Am having more problems with my g6 though  Been away for the weekend and came back to the filter telling me low flow already! So cleaned the mech. filter. But the prime just isn't having any of it today. Goes down, gets stuck and then refuses to budge. I've taken it apart and given it a thorough clean just incase, but it's still giving me jip and I'm at a bit of a loss. 

Wondered if one of you g6 owners would be kind enough to give a little step by step of how you clean yours so I can make sure I've not done something wrong. Failing that, I'm thinking warranty


----------



## Antipofish

Christie_ZXR said:
			
		

> Ta for that conductivity info a few pages back! Very helpful
> 
> Am having more problems with my g6 though  Been away for the weekend and came back to the filter telling me low flow already! So cleaned the mech. filter. But the prime just isn't having any of it today. Goes down, gets stuck and then refuses to budge. I've taken it apart and given it a thorough clean just incase, but it's still giving me jip and I'm at a bit of a loss.
> 
> Wondered if one of you g6 owners would be kind enough to give a little step by step of how you clean yours so I can make sure I've not done something wrong. Failing that, I'm thinking warranty



Hi christie, Im new to the G6 as I have only had mine a short while, however, for what its worth...
(and some of this if not all, you are probably doing anyway)

1) raise the silver aquastop lever
2) (the manual says to turn the filter off, though I am told you don't have to)
3) lift up the prefilter flap
4) turn the prefilter catch to the left to disengage and lift out
5) holding the prefilter cartridge twist the primer head to remove the cartridge and set aside
6) pinch the red collection cup at the bottom of the cartridge to remove
7) remove the black cap at the bottom of the cartridge either with a flathead screwdriver (or I push it off using the end of the prefilter cleaning brush)
8) using the prefilter cleaning brush, clean the inside and outside of the prefilter cartridge
9) reassemble in reverse

Thats all there is to it as far as I can tell.  How dirty is your cartridge and how old is it ?  I believe they are not designed to last forever.

The primer not pushing and returning easily is probably not related to the cleanliness of the prefilter though.  Are the white flaps aligned correctly on the underneath ?  I had to clip mine back in the slots as one had jammed out of position and was causing continuous cavitation.


----------



## Antipofish

OK Today, after running the filter for less than a week, and having cleaned the prefilter twice already, my flow indicator is 2 o 3 bars down.  I did another prefilter clean (its brown already!) and replaced it, and its still no better.  So I removed the carbon cartridge in the chemical chamber and it made no difference still.  Any ideas ?


----------



## Ady34

have you got the ultra fine pre filter or just the standard one?
Sounds like you could have the ultra fine one if its clogging that quick.


----------



## Antipofish

Antipofish said:
			
		

> OK Today, after running the filter for less than a week, and having cleaned the prefilter twice already, my flow indicator is 2 o 3 bars down.  I did another prefilter clean (its brown already!) and replaced it, and its still no better.  So I removed the carbon cartridge in the chemical chamber and it made no difference still.  Any ideas ?





			
				Ady34 said:
			
		

> have you got the ultra fine pre filter or just the standard one?
> Sounds like you could have the ultra fine one if its clogging that quick.



Thanks for the quick reply Ady.  I am a DUFUS !!! I had put my purigen bag in the bio media section, but like a    I put it in the TOP tray, and right underneath the mesh section where the water flows through !  Problem now averted by swapping the trays around. 

Interesting lesson, and useful information for anyone else though... DONT put anything that would restrict flow directly under the flow grid !!!


----------



## Gary Nelson

Now I'm confused??? My G6 has been running perfectly for the last couple of months with me regularly cleaning the mechanical cartridge (twice a week at water changes) and about 3 weeks ago I removed the carbon and put 2 bags of 100ml in - I've had 100% flow.

Tonight I thought it sounded a bit noisier than normal so I thought I'd clean the impeller, it was quite dirty... Whilst I was cleaning I rinsed the media baskets in old tank water, put it all back together. I then switched on to a very quite filter but less than half flow on the indicator? Before I started it was on about 80% flow.

I've removed the head twice to check everything and all seems perfect, I'm very puzzled!

Can anyone help or shed any light on this?

PS, my pipes were cleaned about 4 weeks ago and I normally clean them at 6 weeks, so they are dirty but not that bad.


----------



## Antipofish

You have your mech inner section back the right way around?  Are the white flaps in the primer section which attaches above the prefilter cartridge aligned correctly ?  nothing blocking the grill on the grey insert that separates the bio section from the cartridges ?


----------



## Gary Nelson

Hi mate, yes all aligned correctly and the white flaps are all clicked in and alligned - the filter is spotless so no blockages... Flow is still reading about a quarter - no noise of air trapped either... So puzzled and VERY fed up


----------



## Antipofish

Gary Nelson said:
			
		

> Hi mate, yes all aligned correctly and the white flaps are all clicked in and alligned - the filter is spotless so no blockages... Flow is still reading about a quarter - no noise of air trapped either... So puzzled and VERY fed up



How old is your prefilter cartridge ?
Re check you have replaced the impellor correctly. If you are happy with that then take all the media out of the trays , put in a bucket of tank water and replace the trays empty.  Remove the chem cartridge from the holder and replace empty holder.  Clean the prefilter cartridge if you have not already and replace.  And then run it bare to see what happens.  If you still get low flow then I dunno.  Maybe PM George if he has not had the time to see/comment on this thread and see what he says ?  Remember to put your media back in soon as though and run it even if its at low flow, just to keep the media/bacteria alive. 

Good luck mate.

Oh and I know its kind of obvious but you dont have anything stuck in the out take pipe or the part that hooks over the aquarium, or on the returns ?


----------



## Ady34

no kinks in pipework?


----------



## Christie_ZXR

For what it's worth, I solved my primer problem! So thought I'd share how I did it in case anyone else encounters the same problem.
Um, I got a tad fed up with it, so unscrewed the whole primer unit and started poking around. Now this isn't the most technical solution in the world, but so far so good no harm's come of it. I pulled the "button" out from on top of the spring and found that the casing underneath was filthy. Cleaned it up and put a dob of vaseline on the rubber which is around the base of the button, put it all back together and the primer button is working beautifully now. 

Can't shed any light on the flow issues, I'm still having mine too. But since the filters oversized for the tank anyway and it tends to sit on half, I've given up and let it get on with it.


----------



## Ady34

Christie_ZXR said:
			
		

> Can't shed any light on the flow issues, I'm still having mine too. But since the filters oversized for the tank anyway and it tends to sit on half, I've given up and let it get on with it.



Hi Christie,
pleased you sorted the sticking primer button. 
Hope you dont mind me asking but did you buy new or second hand as you could contact fluval and maybe get the problem sorted under warranty. The price of these filters and the claims made regarding build quality, i certainly wouldnt be settling for 50% flow.
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Ady34

Gary,
i seem to remember on the impeller a very small black rubber 'o' ring, is this still present.... there is a spare in the box which is why i remembered about it because i thought whats this for when i opened it up for the first time? 
This is it... 





Its maybe worth checking as it may have perished or become dislodged in cleaning and dropped out. Of course this is guess work but worth mentioning just in case...
...maybe worth you checking too Christie.
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Christie_ZXR

Mine's second hand sadly, although I was told it's still under warranty.

However...please don't laugh at me but I think I might have found the problem. When I put my new FE in I moved the filter over, and having had another look at it this morning, the out hose now has a loop in it. And I feel a tad silly.    Looks like I'll have to actually clean the junk out of the other side of  the cupboard and tidy everything up...


----------



## Antipofish

Christie_ZXR said:
			
		

> Mine's second hand sadly, although I was told it's still under warranty.
> 
> However...please don't laugh at me but I think I might have found the problem. When I put my new FE in I moved the filter over, and having had another look at it this morning, the out hose now has a loop in it. And I feel a tad silly.    Looks like I'll have to actually clean the junk out of the other side of  the cupboard and tidy everything up...



I know you said "please don't laugh at me", but.........

           

Sorry Christie, it had to be done.  We have all done daft things so don't sweat it.  My earlier flow problem was because I had put my Purigen bag in the top bio tray right by the flow grid !  DOH! 

Glad its all sorted for you


----------



## Gary Nelson

Thanks for all your advice guys, im going to have a look later and try and find out whats causing this... Looking at the impeller picture all seems as it should be.

I will post on here later what i find and the outcome.


----------



## Christie_ZXR

Antipofish said:
			
		

> Christie_ZXR said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine's second hand sadly, although I was told it's still under warranty.
> 
> However...please don't laugh at me but I think I might have found the problem. When I put my new FE in I moved the filter over, and having had another look at it this morning, the out hose now has a loop in it. And I feel a tad silly.    Looks like I'll have to actually clean the junk out of the other side of  the cupboard and tidy everything up...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know you said "please don't laugh at me", but.........
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry Christie, it had to be done.  We have all done daft things so don't sweat it.  My earlier flow problem was because I had put my Purigen bag in the top bio tray right by the flow grid !  DOH!
> 
> Glad its all sorted for you
Click to expand...


Thanks for your sympathy!!


----------



## Antipofish

Hehe Christie, I expect nothing less in return


----------



## Antipofish

Hi, to all you G6 users.... How often do you replace the prefilter cartridge ?  After only 4 weeks, mine is filthy and is really fluffy from cleaning.  I thought it ought to last longer than this ?


----------



## Ady34

Havnt changed mine since i bought them 7 months ago, i alternate 2.
Mine havnt gone 'fluffy' or deteriorated in any way, although they are always brown now!
Ady.


----------



## Antipofish

Ady34 said:
			
		

> Havnt changed mine since i bought them 7 months ago, i alternate 2.
> Mine havnt gone 'fluffy' or deteriorated in any way, although they are always brown now!
> Ady.



Do you scrub yours inside and out with the brish thing that the filter comes with Ady ?


----------



## Ady34

Yeah, i brush immeditaely after removal in water, then leave to dry until the next water change and swap it with the running one.


----------



## Antipofish

Ady34 said:
			
		

> Yeah, i brush immeditaely after removal in water, then leave to dry until the next water change and swap it with the running one.



Weird.  Cannot think whats happened to it then.  Do you find you get much dead plant material in yours ?    I am also finding that when I restart my filter I am getting quite a lot of gunk flow into the tank via the return.  Could it be my pipes are caked inside in muck ?  Also is there a way of cleaning the Hydor external heaters ?  Cheers.


----------



## Gary Nelson

Hi guys, I just thought I'd let you know what was causing my low flow rate after I gave my G6 a clean.  After lots of testing and scratching my head it seems it was the 'thrust bearing' (well I think that what it's called) its the little washer that comes as a spare - part of the impeller assembly - when I removed the existing one and compared it to the new one the old one did look I fraction thinner.... Not much though!

When I replaced it and fired the filter up it went straight to full flow... Thank god.

Now my question is where do you buy these from as I'd like to think I have a couple spare I case the same thing happens again.

I've had a look on the net and cant seem to locate any?


----------



## Antipofish

Gary Nelson said:
			
		

> Hi guys, I just thought I'd let you know what was causing my low flow rate after I gave my G6 a clean.  After lots of testing and scratching my head it seems it was the 'thrust bearing' (well I think that what it's called) its the little washer that comes as a spare - part of the impeller assembly - when I removed the existing one and compared it to the new one the old one did look I fraction thinner.... Not much though!
> 
> When I replaced it and fired the filter up it went straight to full flow... Thank god.
> 
> Now my question is where do you buy these from as I'd like to think I have a couple spare I case the same thing happens again.
> 
> I've had a look on the net and cant seem to locate any?



If only I could even FIND mine !!!


----------



## Ady34

Gary Nelson said:
			
		

> where do you buy these from as I'd like to think I have a couple spare I case the same thing happens again.
> 
> I've had a look on the net and cant seem to locate any?



Hi Gary,
pleased youve sorted the issue.
Im sure your stockist or any other stockist will be able to source them as they will be a listed spare. 
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Ady34

Antipofish said:
			
		

> Weird. Cannot think whats happened to it then. Do you find you get much dead plant material in yours ? I am also finding that when I restart my filter I am getting quite a lot of gunk flow into the tank via the return. Could it be my pipes are caked inside in muck ? Also is there a way of cleaning the Hydor external heaters ? Cheers



Hi Chris,
i do think there is a temptation to try too hard when cleaning these pre filters, i now literally just run the brush through it about 10 times max in a bucket of water then leave to dry.
Little bits of allsorts of tank debris end up in mine! I try to manually remove any trimmings or 'fallen' leaves before they enter the filter to reduce organic waste build up through deterioration.
With regard the detrius return itll definitely be material from the pipes, i occasionally get some which im sures some pipe cleaners would sort out if i could be bothered..... its probably these details that seperate the very successful tanks from the rest!
I imagine a pipe cleaner would also clean the hydor too, but dont quote me on that as i dint know the inner workings and wouldnt like to think i suggested it and you wrecked yours!
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Antipofish

Ady34 said:
			
		

> Antipofish said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Weird. Cannot think whats happened to it then. Do you find you get much dead plant material in yours ? I am also finding that when I restart my filter I am getting quite a lot of gunk flow into the tank via the return. Could it be my pipes are caked inside in muck ? Also is there a way of cleaning the Hydor external heaters ? Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Chris,
> i do think there is a temptation to try too hard when cleaning these pre filters, i now literally just run the brush through it about 10 times max in a bucket of water then leave to dry.
> Little bits of allsorts of tank debris end up in mine! I try to manually remove any trimmings or 'fallen' leaves before they enter the filter to reduce organic waste build up through deterioration.
> With regard the detrius return itll definitely be material from the pipes, i occasionally get some which im sures some pipe cleaners would sort out if i could be bothered..... its probably these details that seperate the very successful tanks from the rest!
> I imagine a pipe cleaner would also clean the hydor too, but dont quote me on that as i dint know the inner workings and wouldnt like to think i suggested it and you wrecked yours!
> Cheerio,
> Ady.
Click to expand...


OK cheers mate.  I am amazed to think that a degraded prefilter could give rise to a 40% reduction in flow.  Im thinking it might be this damn o ring thing.  And I did have it when I got the filter but cannot for the life of me think where it is.  Now I have to search high and low !


----------



## Antipofish

sorry double posted so this one removed..


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Thinking of getting a Fluval G6 ..*

Hi guys, well it was not the prefilter causing the issue.  It was, I suspect, the impellor.  I don't know if it should make any difference as they both look the same to me, but I swapped the rubber bushes at either end of the shaft and now its running at 100%.  I also cleaned the pipes but to be honest they were not that dirty.  All good now though 

On a note worth remembering....

CHEAP PREFILTERS: I was at Maidenhead Aquatics, Hickstead, yesterday and managed to pick up a new prefilter cartridge for £19.99 !!  From what I can gather this is a price point that M.A. have decided to adopt nationwide.  Good news for us G club members.  (The G3 prefilter is cheaper than normal too).


----------



## Gary Nelson

*Re: Thinking of getting a Fluval G6 ..*



			
				Antipofish said:
			
		

> Hi guys, well it was not the prefilter causing the issue.  It was, I suspect, the impellor.  I don't know if it should make any difference as they both look the same to me, but I swapped the rubber bushes at either end of the shaft and now its running at 100%.  I also cleaned the pipes but to be honest they were not that dirty.  All good now though
> 
> On a note worth remembering....
> 
> CHEAP PREFILTERS: I was at Maidenhead Aquatics, Hickstead, yesterday and managed to pick up a new prefilter cartridge for £19.99 !!  From what I can gather this is a price point that M.A. have decided to adopt nationwide.  Good news for us G club members.  (The G3 prefilter is cheaper than normal too).




This is good to know - where did you purchase the 2 rubber bushes from? I think I need to change mine as flow is displaying only half on the gauge again    it did improve when I first swapped it for the spare thrust bearing though.
Everything is clean on mine as well, including all pipes.


----------



## Ady34

Hi Gary,
id consider contacting your supplier as there is warranty with these filters. If youve tried everything it may just need replaceing.
Ady.


----------



## Antipofish

Ady34 said:
			
		

> Hi Gary,
> id consider contacting your supplier as there is warranty with these filters. If youve tried everything it may just need replaceing.
> Ady.



I didnt actually replace mine, sorry if it read like that.  I swapped them round end to end.  I dont know if they are the same item, or one is meant to go one end and the other at the other, but thats what i did.  Course, it could have been a case of the whole impeller not being seated just right.  Impellors in general seem to be damn finnicky things. Not just fluval but Calzone seems to be having issues with his Eheim too.


----------



## Ady34

Antipofish said:
			
		

> I didnt actually replace mine, sorry if it read like that.  I swapped them round end to end.  I dont know if they are the same item, or one is meant to go one end and the other at the other, but thats what i did.  Course, it could have been a case of the whole impeller not being seated just right.  Impellors in general seem to be damn finnicky things. Not just fluval but Calzone seems to be having issues with his Eheim too.



I meant in Garys case the whole filter may need replacing as hes changed the 'thrust bearing' and tried everything else he can think of.
Ady.


----------



## Gary Nelson

Ady34 said:
			
		

> Hi Gary,
> id consider contacting your supplier as there is warranty with these filters. If youve tried everything it may just need replaceing.
> Ady.




Yes I think I will have to Ady, it's only 7wks old - I had it from Sea Pets as an online order.  I just hope they don't ask me to return it before a replacement can be sent though as I don't fancy having no filtration on my tank    besides half my media is from my old Ehiem which was nice an mature.


----------



## Ady34

Hi Gary, 
you would hope that there are measures in place to overcome this type of issue and that a replacement filter be issued whilst yours is beeing looked at. This way you can add your existing mature media to a new unit without any upset to the tank.
I suppose its just a case of contacting them to see what the policy is on this, with it being an expensive item you would hope that seapets or infact hagen would be trying their utmost to help you out, fingers crossed, it must be very frustrating.
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Gary Nelson

Ady34 said:
			
		

> Hi Gary,
> you would hope that there are measures in place to overcome this type of issue and that a replacement filter be issued whilst yours is beeing looked at. This way you can add your existing mature media to a new unit without any upset to the tank.
> I suppose its just a case of contacting them to see what the policy is on this, with it being an expensive item you would hope that seapets or infact hagen would be trying their utmost to help you out, fingers crossed, it must be very frustrating.
> Cheerio,
> Ady.



Yes you are right I will contact them and see what they say about it, as you say these are not cheap units and they should really offer the customer some sort of swap around service.

Thanks for your advice and help on this mate


----------



## Antipofish

Ady34 said:
			
		

> Antipofish said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didnt actually replace mine, sorry if it read like that.  I swapped them round end to end.  I dont know if they are the same item, or one is meant to go one end and the other at the other, but thats what i did.  Course, it could have been a case of the whole impeller not being seated just right.  Impellors in general seem to be damn finnicky things. Not just fluval but Calzone seems to be having issues with his Eheim too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I meant in Garys case the whole filter may need replacing as hes changed the 'thrust bearing' and tried everything else he can think of.
> Ady.
Click to expand...


I imagine they will change the Head unit rather than the lower casing and media/trays/pipes etc.  You probably meant that anyway.  Given this is (hopefully) the case, I think you may need to INSIST that the replacement is sent and then the current one returned.  Any manufacturer worth their salts _OUGHT_ to do this, given the purpose of the filter is primarily to keep fish alive.  

Gary, have a word with your LFS though, as they may loan you a filter if worst comes to worst.  Or even someone on here may lend you a spare as lots of people seem to have backups.  You would have to pay the postage to get it back and forth, but this should cost no more than a tenner each way, or someone local to you would be even better.

Good luck


----------



## Gary Nelson

Well today I phoned Seapets where I purchased my G6 from seven weeks ago to tell them my troubles and all of the things I have tried, pointing out very strongly that this is a very clean and well looked after unit and that I know what I'm doing. I was then told they could not do anything and to bring the filter in and they would take a look, great seeing as I live 160miles from them and I'd already told them it was an online order.  They then told me to call another of their numbers, which I did, again explaining the problem - they then said sorry we cant exchange or do anything and promptly gave me the number for Hagen and told me to try them, at this point I was getting very frustrated!

I spoke to a helpful guy at Hagen and went onto tell me that G6's do not like anything inline on the pipes and asked if I felt that my flow was feeling like half power as the indicator was showing, to which I said yes. He told me it was an impeller problem and to remove the impeller, dry it off and rub the magnetic part with a dry scouring pad till it showed signs of grey coming off.  Then the dry out where the impeller goes and fill it with vinegar and leave it for an hour - basically telling me it was a build up of lime scale that was causing the issue.  After an hour and my other half not looking to chuffed as more time on my tank, I put the filter back on the tank and fired it up.... To yes you guessed it a display showing HALF flow still!!!!  

My filter still sounds louder then when I first bought it, my flow is half and my pockets £350 lighter!  I've now spotted algae starting to appear due to low flow I suspect, great stuff!!! I'm now seriously thinking of packing this lark in as enough is enough.

Not the best start to a new week


----------



## Ady34

Hi Gary,
really sorry and dissappointed to hear of your experiences today. As a buyer you would expect more from your point of sale and i would encourage you to contact both seapets and Hagen again with reference to this. At least Hagen offered some help, but no matter what, your unit is only 7 weeks old and hagen should be able to help you out further if you contact them again. 


			
				Gary Nelson said:
			
		

> My filter still sounds louder then when I first bought it, my flow is half and my pockets £350 lighter! I've now spotted algae starting to appear due to low flow I suspect, great stuff!!! I'm now seriously thinking of packing this lark in as enough is enough.


It must be entirely frustrating at the moment, and after your experience today i can empathise with this feeling, however tomorrow is a new day, algae can be overcome and im sure you will get something sorted with hagen at least. The hobby is generally great and there is more satisfaction gained than frustrations should dampen. 
Id say be firm and suggest a replacement be sent as you cannot be without filtration, the unit is after all still under warranty.
I hope you get it sorted Gary, but dont pack it in.
Cheerio,
Ady.


----------



## Antipofish

Hey Gary.  G6's not liking anything inline is utter rubbish (in my experience so far and based on what I know others are doing).  GF runs his UP inline diffuser on his with no problem.  I am running an UP inline on the inlet and a ETH300 heater on the outlet !  And I am bl**dy sure others are doing the same. (Guys, you know who you are who own a G6, feel free to corroborate this theory or if you have had issues, please let us know too). 

Try to stay calm when dealing with Hagens. I hope you do not get the problems getting things sorted with them that I did, although mine was second hand, though unused, and I had no receipt (long story).  Unfortunately I will admit I lost my rag with them a bit and it seems that was that !  But you are a bona fide consumer. You are in possession of a receipt.  You have more rights than I did as I was not the original purchaser, and you clearly have an issue that they are most likely legally obligated to address.  

*Do not under any circumstances give up*.  This is your hobby an you cannot let a filter beat you mate.  Buy a cheapo EX1200 off Ebay, or any other filter come to that.  Borrow one off a friend if you can.  Put a message up on here for a WANTED LOAN FILTER.  Do whatever works for you. Maybe an LFS has a spare or second hand one they can loan you.  You can transfer the filter media easy enough.  This might be what you have to do in order to get this sorted.  I have felt like you on several occasions with the issues I had with my G6 to start with. 

Worst comes to worst, get the filter fixed while you are using a borrowed or cheap second hand one.  Then when you get a replacement or repair done to yours or new part, whatever the solution you will have two options.  Keep the filter or sell it.  They go for enough money for you to move into a decent Eheim.  I can help you source one at a good price either from a European site or from my friendly LFS guy.

I still believe in the G6.  I have had a few flow issues myself where it dropped down 40%.  It was related to the impellor.  Have you had yours out for maintenance at all ?  Replacing it seems to be a delicate affair.  

I basically did a total strip down.  Cleaned the pipes and the overtank connectors.  Cleaned the aquastop and also the holes it slots into.  Cleaned the inside of the impellor chamber.  Made sure there was proper flow through the primer head and took the primer head apart to make sure the rubber was holding the white gates in place properly. Put it all back together again.  40% reduced flow !!!  Took the impellor back out, took it apart and put it back together again and this time let it "drop" into the chamber by magnetic force rather than placing it in by hand.  Did up the impellor holder (dont know what its called), emptied the whole filter of water, lifted the spraybar above the waterline, primed the filter and started it up and WHOOT  100% flow.  WTF was that all about !  But its working fine now and I aint touching that impellor again unless I have to.

Best of luck mate.  If you find you are beating your head against a brick wall send me a PM and I will give you my number.  You are welcome to call and chat things through if you want to.  BUT DONT LET A POXY FILTER PUT YOU OUT OF THE HOBBY !


----------



## Gary Nelson

Thank you Ady & Chris for your excellent advice - I am going to call Seapets again this afternoon and hopefully get somewhere as regards to at least a new impeller unit, then try again.  I dont want to drop my hobby as when its going ok its great and the nice comments I get when people come into our lounge and see the aquarium makes it all worth while.

I will let you know what happens next... thanks again


----------



## Gary Nelson

*Re: Thinking of getting a Fluval G6 - Impeller Cleaning?*

Going back to March, I was sent a new impeller and everything was perfect 100% flow. It has been perfect ever since. I did notice today that it seemed slightly noisier and the flow had dropped slightly. I thought as it was such a nice day that I would give it a clean. Once again after it had been cleaned and the impeller replaced correctly, I was horrified to see that the flow had dropped again to approx 50%. I looked at it several times and I know it has been put back together correctly. 
I feel so disappointed'!!!! Can I just ask has anyone else had this problem and out of interest how often do you clean the impeller?


----------



## Antipofish

*Re: Thinking of getting a Fluval G6 - Impeller Cleaning?*



			
				Gary Nelson said:
			
		

> Going back to March, I was sent a new impeller and everything was perfect 100% flow. It has been perfect ever since. I did notice today that it seemed slightly noisier and the flow had dropped slightly. I thought as it was such a nice day that I would give it a clean. Once again after it had been cleaned and the impeller replaced correctly, I was horrified to see that the flow had dropped again to approx 50%. I looked at it several times and I know it has been put back together correctly.
> I feel so disappointed'!!!! Can I just ask has anyone else had this problem and out of interest how often do you clean the impeller?



I would send it back mate.  So sorry to hear about the problem though.  But I did have this  issue and it took three attempts at removing and replacing the impellor to get it going with proper flow.  Rolls Royce of the filter world ?  More like Skoda if you ask me.  But thats not nice for people to hear who have coughed up a lot of money for it.

People still like them though, but if I was you I would sell it for a couple of hundy on Ebay and buy yourself an Eheim 2078 from zooplus.de  With the euro like it is, you will spend about that for a new filter delivered.  I have not looked back since changing mine.

Either way though, good luck sorting your flow out.


----------



## Christie_ZXR

It's not those daft little black rings in the impellor causing the problem is it? I had great fun getting them to go back together properly the first time I cleaned the impellor!!


----------



## Gary Nelson

No I've changed that for the spare one - I rang Hagen this morning and spoke to the same chap as last time about 2 months back he just said he would send me a replacement impeller straight out... No questions asked.

I also asked if there was a problem as I said that I did not want this happening each time I give it a clean (every 2months) he said no issues, so I'm not sure what the problem is.  Last time I fitted the new one in it was perfect.


----------



## Quetzalcoatl

Shame you are having these issues.   I regulary dismantle the impellor assembly and perform maintenance with no problems at all. Last Thursday was the most recent!

From memory I only have the 1 steel washer in my assembly and that is housed in the top rubber bush. I fail to see the importance of having it located at the top, or the bottom but I have read elsewhere that this has caused issues. :?:  
I run my UP inline and use carbon in the Chemical cartridge, the only time I see a reduction in flow is if I have negleted maintenance on the Mechanical Pre filter and it has become clogged. But this drop is minimal and is rectified by a quick clean. Do you use the fine variety of Pre-filter, or the standard white one. It`s a mare that you are having these problems I love my G6 and couldn`t imagine life without it!


----------



## Antipofish

Gary Nelson said:
			
		

> No I've changed that for the spare one - I rang Hagen this morning and spoke to the same chap as last time about 2 months back he just said he would send me a replacement impeller straight out... No questions asked.
> 
> I also asked if there was a problem as I said that I did not want this happening each time I give it a clean (every 2months) he said no issues, so I'm not sure what the problem is.  Last time I fitted the new one in it was perfect.



LOL, I doubt they would ever admit to any issues.  They wont even admit that the display screen corruption when not illuminated is an issue !  A £350 filter and its perfectly normal apparently !!  At least they are sending you another impellor.  I hope it works


----------



## Gary Nelson

Well, i received my replacement impeller from Hagen yesterday and fitted it in and switched on to see a maximum flow of still 50%! which i was not very happy about.   

After again trying numerous things I contacted Hagen again and was talked through various things to try of which most of them i've already done.  This morning Hagen have said thety would like to have the filter back to test, but I have to go through Seapets of where i purchased it from online 4 months back.  I have to say the 'tech' guy at Hagen has been very helpful though.

I then rang Seapets and they said they will have it back but not send out a replacement till they have received mine and tested it! i asked about a replacement telling them its was a 'very nice planted tank' with some 50 fish in' and that I simply could not go without a filter for days on end - the guy from Seapets just said do regular water changes! talk about being told how to suck eggs! he then went on to tell me that if I needed a filter to buy another one from them!? infuriating or what!  

I have now told them that if this does not get resolved quickly I will be sending it back for a full refund - I'm not at all impressed with this or to be honest my first time with Fluval after moving over from Eheim.

I'll now have to wait to hear back from Seapets - to behonest if they won't send out a replacement head and I end up sending it back im feeling that im quite prepared to take the drive to them and quick a right stink up in store till i've got a full refund.


----------



## Iain Sutherland

Hey Gary, seems youve been really unlucky with your G6 mate, while i had teething problems with mine none were mechanical related.  Dont know if its of any help but i have a pro 2 that you can borrow for as long as you want mate?  The primer leaks for a day if you use it but works perfectly otherwise.
Iain


----------



## Iain Sutherland

also sounds like seapets have offered a pretty poor service, id be pissed.


----------



## Ady34

Hi Gary,
this is awful mate and highlights the issues of having to send a filter back. At £350 fixed price you'd expect hagen themselves to be sending out a replacement filter for use until the fault has been diagnosed/repaired. As for seapets, change more water is a ridiculous 'compromise' and they need to give their heads a shake, especially given that the filter is a lifeline fot the tanks inhabitants! I know Chris is very down on the G6, and you have had an unsatisfactory experience but mine has been faultless thus far.
I really hope you get this resolved mate, but im sure it will leave a nasty tast whatever the outcome.
Ady.


----------



## Alastair

Surely under warranty sea pets should just change the filter outright anyway if it's only 4 months old. There should be no need for them to test. 
I had a terrible problem with them when the supporting rim of a tank started splitting and they did everything to avoid replacing it 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Gary Nelson

easerthegeezer said:
			
		

> Hey Gary, seems youve been really unlucky with your G6 mate, while i had teething problems with mine none were mechanical related.  Dont know if its of any help but i have a pro 2 that you can borrow for as long as you want mate?  The primer leaks for a day if you use it but works perfectly otherwise.
> Iain



Cheers for that offer Iain, very kind of you   

Seapets agreed to change this in the end and sent me out a new one, I just swapped over my media and fired it up and bingo 100% flow!    
I've also noticed a massive difference in just how quite it is, so my original one must have been a bad un... All in all I'm a happy chappy again.

I would just like to say thank you to everyone for support and advice


----------



## Antipofish

Gary Nelson said:
			
		

> easerthegeezer said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Gary, seems youve been really unlucky with your G6 mate, while i had teething problems with mine none were mechanical related.  Dont know if its of any help but i have a pro 2 that you can borrow for as long as you want mate?  The primer leaks for a day if you use it but works perfectly otherwise.
> Iain
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers for that offer Iain, very kind of you
> 
> Seapets agreed to change this in the end and sent me out a new one, I just swapped over my media and fired it up and bingo 100% flow!
> I've also noticed a massive difference in just how quite it is, so my original one must have been a bad un... All in all I'm a happy chappy again.
> 
> I would just like to say thank you to everyone for support and advice
Click to expand...


Glad you got it sorted.


----------



## Ady34

Just to stick up for the G6 a bit here, I LOVE mine. It seems that in all cases its the customer service thats at fault here. With everything there can be faults and it should be about how its dealt with. Mine has been faultless and a pleasure to use. The display screen to me is irrelevant as i dont look at it when its not illuminated...whats the point, and when it is illuminated you cant see it anyway. The G6 is the easiest filter for weekly maintenance no question, its short stature makes getting into it under tanks in a cabinet a doddle. I havnt replaced my pre filter yet, and its 8 months old, so even though quite pricey initially, they last long enough to warrant it for how effective they are. The charcoal/chemical filter can be opened to add anything you want so you dont need to buy the expensive replacements and you have some versatility. Ive only opened the main filter once in all the time its been running to clean the bio section, another bonus in minimising filter maintenance. Some people suffer flow reduction from adding things inline, my inline c02 diffuser on the filter outlet shows no reduction of flow, any flow reduction is probably more due to the inline equipment and the tube diameter reduction on the hosetails. Any filter will suffer the same drop off, and its only due to the G6 flow monitor that you can see just how much! £350 is a lot for a filter but i feel its been worth every penny as i wanted a simple to clean and efficient filter and thats what ive got


----------



## Antipofish

Thats fair play Ady ... each to their own.   I still maintain that whether its aesthetic or not, the screen should be perfect at that price, but it seems that opinion is in the minority.  Then again, I am fussy and if I pay top dollar I like to get something that reflects that.  The screen and computer side was one of the big draws for me, so therefore it does matter to me.


----------



## sanj

I cant comment too much on the G6, other than I wouldnt by one because of its price and what it offers verses the upper end of the Eheims.


----------



## Ady34

Yeah, admittedly its really all about what your looking for in a filter. For me it ticks all the boxes.


----------



## Antipofish

Ady34 said:
			
		

> Yeah, admittedly its really all about what your looking for in a filter. For me it ticks all the boxes.


And it does work especially well with your tank too. I do accept that as a valid reason.. 

Without wanting to sound inflammatory, , are you including the "RRP for what you get, compared to other filters box" ? I am genuinely interested to know if people believe the G6 is actually worth £350 when you can get alternatives for £100 less. I am talking about the comparison I have made of course, with my purchase of an Eheim 2078 Pro3E. I realise this can be considered a "risky" topic, and I will stipulate for the record, that if things went entirely on looks, the G6 would win. 

I know some people say they love the maintenance of a G6. But I did a tank clean two days ago. Apart from cleaning the prefilter on my Eheim (takes about 90 seconds to remove the prefilter and put a clean one in and then of course you go and rinse out the dirty one in the same way you have to with the G6 cartridge) and replacing the filter wool every month, I have not had to clean any of the rest of it. And that includes the pipes and external heater. So I am not sure that maintenance is really any easier on a G6. 

I will also agree that the hydrotech computer is neat. I found the temp alarm (well its more of a flashing screen that you have to see since it doesnt beep at you) useful when I forget to turn on the heater once. But I never really found the TDS meter much help as I kept a regular water change regime anyway. And I didn't need a graph to show me that the flow was reduced, I could see that for myself. What I like about the Eheim is that if flow reduces it compensates by ramping it up to maintain it at what you set it as long as possible. 

I have slated the G6 recently. That stemmed from poor customer relations with Hagens, as well as seeing more and more stories of people having problems with theirs since I sold mine; not just on here but on several other forums. That probably wasn't entirely fair, although I did state in my posts that it still did the job of filtering. I just am glad I didn't pay £350 for mine.


----------



## Ady34

Antipofish said:
			
		

> Ady34 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, admittedly its really all about what your looking for in a filter. For me it ticks all the boxes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ady, without wanting to sound inflammatory, , are you including the "RRP for what you get, compared to other filters box"  ?  I am genuinely interested to know if people believe the G6 is actually worth £350 when you can get alternatives for £100 less.  I am talking about the comparison I have made of course, with my purchase of an Eheim 2078 Pro3E.  I realise this can be considered a "risky" topic, and I will stipulate for the record, that if things went entirely on looks, the G6 would win.
> 
> I know some people say they love the maintenance of a G6.  But I did a tank clean two days ago.  Apart from cleaning the prefilter on my Eheim (takes about 90 seconds to remove the prefilter and put a clean one in and then of course you go and rinse out the dirty one in the same way you have to with the G6 cartridge) and replacing the filter wool every month, I have not had to clean any of the rest of it.  And that includes the pipes and external heater.  So I am not sure that maintenance is really any easier.
> 
> I will also agree that the hydrotech computer is neat.  I found the temp alarm (well its more of a flashing screen that you have to see since it doesnt beep at you) useful when I forget to turn on the heater once.  But I never really found the TDS meter useful as I kept a regular water change regime anyway.  And I didn't need a graph to show me that the flow was reduced, I could see that for myself.  What I like about the Eheim is that if flow reduces it compensates by ramping it up to maintain it at what you set it as long as possible.
> 
> I have slated the G6 recently. That stemmed from my disappointment with the distributors over a few things, as well as seeing more and more stories of people having problems with theirs, not  just on here but on several other forums.  That probably wasn't entirely fair, although I did state in my posts that it still did the job of filtering.  I just am glad I didn't pay £350 for it.
Click to expand...

In all honesty Chris before i got the filter i was like...id never pay that much for a filter, and it is a huge amount of cash whichever way you look at it. I was lured by the good reviews, the good looks and glossy finish which went with my studio 900. My previous experience of externals was one of 'ill leave cleaning that this week'   , so the ease of maintenence for the g6 was a huge plus for me. Ive said before i have no experience of eheims but when i was looking for filters for my 1st proper planted set up, i looked at a few eheims and nearly opted for one as they had excellent reviews, but i did a bit of a deal with the supplied fluval 305 filter with the studio 900 and effectively got some money off the g6. In for a penny, in for a pound an all that. I just really liked the neatness and compact stance and obviously the stated ease of use and filtering capabilities. The computer was really not here nor there to me but i do now find it very useful as a guide to make sure everything is within perameters ie nothings going wrong. Maybe its because i have nothing to really compare it to but as ive said its lived up to all my expectations and i dont put off maintenance on it as its a doddle   . 
As with everything you can pay a premium  or go budget and all those inbetween, but its whatever your happy with that counts. I dont really think of it in terms of value for money, more if im happy with what ive got...which i am. I have no doubt that i could get the same filtration for less, but this is the one i chose and id choose it again if i had to 
Ady.


----------



## Antipofish

Good good  I guess every tank is different and probably different tanks require different amounts of maintenance.  And as you say, you didn't pay full whack for yours either essentially.


----------



## Ady34

Typically on the day i introduce some livestock i seem to have just been struck by the 50% flow drop off issue that Gary suffered!
Filter cleaned, impellor checked etc etc, but no joy.....if it comes with a 1 year warranty itll be just out too, visit to the LFS tomorrow to see what can be done


----------



## Nathaniel Whiteside

Yikes  is that a common fault like Ady? Did you get it from Paddock?


----------



## Ady34

Whitey89 said:
			
		

> Yikes  is that a common fault like Ady? Did you get it from Paddock?


Its seeming a bit more common now!   
No not from Paddock Farm.
Hopefully itll get sorted somehow, if not the wife wont be getting a christmas present!


----------



## Nathaniel Whiteside

Ha good luck with that! She'll put a hammer through your glass!


----------



## cjlhessing

Hmm. Am I too late to join the g6 (and G3?) party???


----------



## Andrew Butler

George Farmer said:


> The bio media will last a lifetime



I know this is an old thread which I haven't read all the way through yet but the bio media (G-Nodes supplied) even if you rinse them don't they become clogged?
I'm looking at the best value bio media to replace mine with if anyone has suggestions?


----------



## Edvet

Andrew Butler said:


> bio media to replace mine


What do you want? Anything is a bio medium, sand, gravel, filtersponge, lavastone, sintered glass. Only the price varies. In a planted tank there is little need for bio active media, because there is so much already in the tank. Quite different from a bare tank without plants and large fish.
My large tank, build with discus on my mind, has a huge sump, fed by two trickle filters and filled with filterfoam and lava. The sump is empty now because i have a lot of plants.


----------



## Andrew Butler

Edvet said:


> What do you want?



I guess something ceramic would be the most appropriate for the trays of the G6?


----------



## ceg4048

Boy, talk about necromancy.

Save some money and get better flow performance. Review https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/bio-media-for-fluval-305.29612/

Cheers,


----------



## Andrew Butler

George Farmer said:


> I only clean the bio media every 6 months


I assume you just give them a rinse in tank water?


George Farmer said:


> The bio media will last a lifetime.



The G-nodes as supplied with the Fluval G series are a ceramic bio media and I'm told by Fluval will clog over time even if you do rinse them.
I guess it's like the ceramic in a CO2 diffuser and will clog with limescale if nothing else?


----------



## dw1305

Hi all, 





Andrew Butler said:


> The G-nodes as supplied with the Fluval G series are a ceramic bio media and I'm told by Fluval will clog over time even if you do rinse them.


You can <"microwave ceramic media">, or put them in a pressure cooker, if you want to get the finer pore spaces clean.

Even though it is a planted tank, I probably wouldn't "deep clean" them all at once.

As you may gather from the linked threads, and other posters in this thread, we aren't really interested in <"anaerobic denitrication">.


Col1in said:


> I just watched a video by the pondguru about filter media, he basically said all filter media is kak other than Biohome which he sells. However I'm fairly sure people have been using other media for years with no adverse effects. And I'm sure the Biohome media is good, but it's too expensive. Alfagrog is a fraction of the price and if its good enough for a pond it must be good enough for an aquarium.


I'd admit I find the, fairly heated, discussions on other forums about which media has the most pore space, and is by definition best, a bit like arguing about which deck-chair on the Titanic is the best one, but in this case oxygen is our iceberg.

cheers Darrel


----------



## Andrew Butler

dw1305 said:


> Even though it is a planted tank, I probably wouldn't "deep clean" them all at once


If I'm told the bio media isn't important in a planted tank why do we use it?

The thing is with the G6 as you may know is you replace the carbon about once a month which is in a separate cartridge and the carbon gets rinsed in tap water to get the dust off, the pre-filter cartridge I change weekly, rinse it in tap water and normally put the spare one in which has no bio value.

This then means that the filter contains no bio-value or however you would like to word it. People are forever preaching about cleaning filter foam etc in tank water, never tap water and never replace it all at once so how does this leave the G6 if you don't put anything in the media trays? Then it is just a pump which filters out the larger particles and 'polishes' the water with the carbon which then almost makes me think what's the point in cycling an aquarium.

I'm just trying to understand things a little better and sorry if I seem a bit dumb!


----------



## Edvet

There will be bacteria all over the tank and in the substrate, plants will use nitrogen in all forms, the roots of the plants will create bacteria friendly zones in the substrate. 
The heavily planted tank doesn't need a lot of bacteria in the filter. it needs a good  flow and distribution of ferts in the water so the whole plant has acces to the building bricks. Also no dead spots will improve oxygen for all bacteria.Now in a tank with a lot of fish and no or few bacteria you will want to make nitrogen safe and remove as much as possible, therefore you'll nee a lot of bacteria in the filter.

This one needs a lot of bacteria  in the filter:



 


This one doesn't:


----------



## dw1305

Hi all, 





Andrew Butler said:


> If I'm told the bio media isn't important in a planted tank why do we use it?


I wouldn't say it isn't important, I would just say it isn't as critical as it is in an un-planted tank. The point I'd really like to make is the one @Edvet  makes ,that "plant filtration" is always "plant/microbe" filtration. 

The problem with a canister filter is that a finite amount of oxygen enters it, and it can't be replenished inside the filter. For a lot of the biomedia it is seen as an advantage that  it can *potentially* simultaneously support the aerobic nitrification of ammonia (NH3) to nitrite (NO2) nitrate (NO3) and the anaerobic denitrification of NO3 to N2 gas. This is dependent upon their being an oxygen gradient across the biofilm on the biomedia, with the outer layers of the biofilm aerobic and the inner layers anaerobic. 

I'm not even going to go there, it is an idea that is guaranteed to lead to disaster. If the finite amount of oxygen is depleted before all the ammonia is processed you are in a situation where your filter re-circulates highly toxic ammonia back into the tank, leading to a positive feedback loop of lower oxygen and increased ammonia.

If you have biological media that is swept by oxygen rich water, it will still develop a complex biofilm over time, but one that can respond to increased ammonia, because it isn't oxygen limited,  

I like belt and braces so I always have some bio-filtration media, but some people don't worry about biomedia, they have a substrate and plants and @Bart Hazes has some tanks tanks without filters. 

cheers Darrel


----------



## Anne Thynne

At this point I am pretty confused with all those loooong comments. I was planning to buy a Fluval G6 and then landed on a review ( https://expertaquarist.com/fluval-g6-review/ ). Almost decided I would go for it. My tank is 90 Gallons with moderate bio-load. Can someone simply suggest whether I should buy this canister filter?


----------



## ceg4048

Here's a short comment:

Following the 10x Rule for CO2 injected tanks, a 90G tank will do best with a filter that has an output rating of more or less 900 G per hour.
Are there other brands, or previous versions of this brand (i.e. FX5 or FX6) with similar output that can be had for cheaper?
If no then get this filter. If yes then get something else.
Filters are nothing more than plastic buckets with a pump attached. All the electronic wizardry being implemented on modern designs are all illusions.
What really matters is the muscle of the pump in the bucket and it's durability/reliability. Everything else is fluff.

Cheers,


----------



## alto

I'm not as convinced of the 10x "Rule" - good flow is not synonymous with high flow rate

You can look at many successful Tropica & ADA planted tanks where filter (manufacturer stated) flow rate is only 4-5X tank volume (ie total volume - obviously the addition of substrate, hardscape & plants, can substantially lower the actual water column volume)
Important Note: these tank examples usually run without any of the inline filter modifications that are so popular now
If you're planing inline heater, CO2 reactor etc, then expect to buy more filter power, or run these off a secondary filter 

But even I  would not attempt to run a 90gal tank with a single G6 - which Fluval lists 1000litre/hour turnover, maximum possible!

You don't mention tank dimensions, but I'd choose 2 filters rather than attempt a single larger filter
(I've not been impressed with the 3 FX6 filters a friend runs on bigger (goldfish) tanks)

I was quite keen to see the G6 after watching George Farmer videos
Until I saw the local shop price (or even best online price I could find) - I could buy 2 Eheim Pro's complete with media for slightly less 
After playing with the instore demo filter, I was even less inclined - some of the components are much lower grade material/manufacture finish than I'd consider at that price 

You could source a used G6, but then you're (likely) out of warranty & I definitely would not purchase without testing it first


----------



## Wookii

Sorry for digging up an old(er) thread but I figured this may have the most owners in it.

I'm considering replacing my Eheim 2028 with a filter that allows easier cleaning via a dedicated and easily removable pre-filter. I've already had enough of regularly having to completely disassemble my Eheim to clean it.

Current candidates as the Oase Biomaster 600, the Aquel Ultramax 2000, and the Fluval G6. I have largely discounted the Aquel, as I'd have to physically move it every time I needed to remove the pre-filter due to the tight-ish space it will be housed in.

That leaves the Oase and the Fluval.

So on the Fluval, I have a few questions:

1. How are owners finding it after long term use? Still happy with it? Any issues?
2. On the secondary chemical filter, can this be replaced with the finer 75 micron pre-filter that Fluval sell? Has anyone any experience with this finer pre-filter cartridge?
3. Does anyone use Purigen in the secondary filter so it can be easily removed for recharging? (I appreciate the Purigen is usually kept at the very end of the filter cycle, but easy removal of this for monthly recharging is attractive).
4. If I understand correctly the pre-filter filters from the inside to the outside. Doe this mean that should any shrimp etc get sucked into the filter, they will be safely caught inside the pre-filter cartridge for later repatriation? Anyone had this happen?
5. Am I likely to see any flow difference between my existing Eheim 2028 and the G6?


----------



## Andrew Butler

Wookii said:


> That leaves the Oase and the Fluval.


I'm a lover of the G6 filters, the only thing they're missing is the built in heater.

I have also had an Oase filter, simply as I wanted the built in heater convenience.
From experience flow from the Oase Biotherm 600 is a trickle compared to the G6 - simple as that. I tried changing back to the G6 as I just didn't think flow was very strong and using the exact same spraybar etc the G6 blasted the soil away and ruined the scape so had to change things a bit. The Oase pre-filter is awful also, to get it out you need a VERY tall cabinet or remove the filter from the cabinet which is a pain. Those two points alone were enough to put me off the Oase - I've no idea why they are so heavily backed by retailers; money maybe?



Wookii said:


> So on the Fluval, I have a few questions:


1. I've had quite a few of these filters and before I closed some aquariums down had 4 of them running at once. There's now only one in the house which will also be coming to a stop in the not too distant future as changing to an AIO system so everything is contained within the aquarium so no hoses to tackle.
2. The pre-filter cartridges will fit the mechanical section only. I did try one of the finer pre-filters in the mechanical section but it did restrict flow after several months where things had just clogged it up despite keeping them clean so save your money and stick to the normal ones. I've hard water so was possibly due to that.
The chemical cartridge provided is full of carbon but you can take the covers off and providing it's appropriate put what you want in there.
3. I did use Purigen very briefly but seem to favour activated carbon myself, why? - who knows but think it's the cleaning of the Purigen and how easy it is to use a good quality activated carbon such as Rowa Carbon and not all that expensive. *I had previously added Purigen directly to the chemical cartridge which I read people had done but was a very bad idea, the cartridge slots are not fine enough so stick to putting it in bags first!
4. Yes, flow goes from the inside to outside of the pre-filter so things get caught within the inside of it, including lots of shrimp 'safely' I'm unsure is the correct word as the flow is still going into the pre-filter but providing you rinse it with each water change then you should be ok; I've only ever had a handful of dead babies.
There's an art to cleaning the pre-filters and I found the brush most suited to using the handle to tap the cap out of the pre-filter and noting more! Once you've tapped the cap out over a small bucket you will be able to tap the shrimp out that haven't fallen already and found the best way of cleaning them was to just use a hose or shower on the jet type setting and blast it from the outside if this makes sense?
5. No experience of the Eheim 2028 but can compare the Oase as I have above. They say the 'pump performance' is 2460 LPH and actual flow rate of the G6 is 1000 LPH.

One thing I would say as a big negative about the G6 is Fluval advertise you're able to regulate flow with the Aquastop lever without harm to the motor etc which is not true and I've had a couple of the filters unable to reach full flow after running them at reduced flow while things were settling in. Hagen (UK) did replace them for me but I was told the valve regulation is meant for such times as feeding alone which it makes no mention of anywhere on the dedicated G-series website.

Quote from webpage:
_
'With its proprietary technology the AquaStop system makes maintenance easy, allowing you to stop the water flow by simply bringing the AquaStop valve lever into an upright position. By lifting the AquaStop release lever, the complete assembly can be conveniently removed without separating the hosing. The AquaStop valve lever can also be used to regulate the water flow with no harm to the motor or its components.'_

I'd choose the G6 personally but that's just my opinion.

If you do go down that route and need any spares give me a shout as I've got loads I'll be selling when the other one is shut down and sold on.


----------



## Wookii

Andrew Butler said:


> I'm a lover of the G6 filters, the only thing they're missing is the built in heater.
> 
> I have also had an Oase filter, simply as I wanted the built in heater convenience.
> From experience flow from the Oase Biotherm 600 is a trickle compared to the G6 - simple as that. I tried changing back to the G6 as I just didn't think flow was very strong and using the exact same spraybar etc the G6 blasted the soil away and ruined the scape so had to change things a bit. The Oase pre-filter is awful also, to get it out you need a VERY tall cabinet or remove the filter from the cabinet which is a pain. Those two points alone were enough to put me off the Oase - I've no idea why they are so heavily backed by retailers; money maybe?
> 
> 
> 1. I've had quite a few of these filters and before I closed some aquariums down had 4 of them running at once. There's now only one in the house which will also be coming to a stop in the not too distant future as changing to an AIO system so everything is contained within the aquarium so no hoses to tackle.
> 2. The pre-filter cartridges will fit the mechanical section only. I did try one of the finer pre-filters in the mechanical section but it did restrict flow after several months where things had just clogged it up despite keeping them clean so save your money and stick to the normal ones. I've hard water so was possibly due to that.
> The chemical cartridge provided is full of carbon but you can take the covers off and providing it's appropriate put what you want in there.
> 3. I did use Purigen very briefly but seem to favour activated carbon myself, why? - who knows but think it's the cleaning of the Purigen and how easy it is to use a good quality activated carbon such as Rowa Carbon and not all that expensive. *I had previously added Purigen directly to the chemical cartridge which I read people had done but was a very bad idea, the cartridge slots are not fine enough so stick to putting it in bags first!
> 4. Yes, flow goes from the inside to outside of the pre-filter so things get caught within the inside of it, including lots of shrimp 'safely' I'm unsure is the correct word as the flow is still going into the pre-filter but providing you rinse it with each water change then you should be ok; I've only ever had a handful of dead babies.
> There's an art to cleaning the pre-filters and I found the brush most suited to using the handle to tap the cap out of the pre-filter and noting more! Once you've tapped the cap out over a small bucket you will be able to tap the shrimp out that haven't fallen already and found the best way of cleaning them was to just use a hose or shower on the jet type setting and blast it from the outside if this makes sense?
> 5. No experience of the Eheim 2028 but can compare the Oase as I have above. They say the 'pump performance' is 2460 LPH and actual flow rate of the G6 is 1000 LPH.
> 
> One thing I would say as a big negative about the G6 is Fluval advertise you're able to regulate flow with the Aquastop lever without harm to the motor etc which is not true and I've had a couple of the filters unable to reach full flow after running them at reduced flow while things were settling in. Hagen (UK) did replace them for me but I was told the valve regulation is meant for such times as feeding alone which it makes no mention of anywhere on the dedicated G-series website.
> 
> Quote from webpage:
> _
> 'With its proprietary technology the AquaStop system makes maintenance easy, allowing you to stop the water flow by simply bringing the AquaStop valve lever into an upright position. By lifting the AquaStop release lever, the complete assembly can be conveniently removed without separating the hosing. The AquaStop valve lever can also be used to regulate the water flow with no harm to the motor or its components.'_
> 
> I'd choose the G6 personally but that's just my opinion.
> 
> If you do go down that route and need any spares give me a shout as I've got loads I'll be selling when the other one is shut down and sold on.



Thanks for the detailed response Andrew, that’s hugely appreciated.

In terms of controlling the flow, could I simply use the ball valves in the Eheim quick release connectors that I already have in place, or would this put undue pressure on the motor?

I want to go with the G6 as I hope to upgrade to a larger tank in a year or so, but for now I don’t necessarily want to turn my little 60 litre tank into a washing machine.

I’m assuming the difference between the 1000lph (considering it’s 2460lph motor) rating of the G6 and the 1250lph rating of the Oase 600 is simply because the latter is also a motor rating, whereas the former is with the canister full of media?

If I was adding Purigen to the chemical cartridge, would I not be able to just insert the standard pre-bagged ones (rather than loose), or would they not fit?


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## Siege

I use a G6 filter regularly.

amazing pump. 
Bugger all room for media
Horrible brittle plastic that hurts your fingers everytime you touch it!

I’m not being much help I’m afraid.....!


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## Andrew Butler

Wookii said:


> In terms of controlling the flow, could I simply use the ball valves in the Eheim quick release connectors that I already have in place, or would this put undue pressure on the motor?


In italic below is an email quotation from the senior aquatic technical advisor at Hagen UK. I asked for something in writing when I was first told it was my fault for running the filter with the aquastop lever partly closed to control flow and had damaged the motor by doing this, which as you can see completely contradicts the information given by Fluval on their G-Series website; information included at many places online as a feature and I think it's even on the box (this I'd have to check and it's in the loft)
I did get a refund/replacement but only after pointing out how it's an advertised feature of the device and nowhere within the instructions does it mention possibility of damaging the filter and infact quite the opposite. Unsure their handbrake analogy is the best
_'As per our conversation regarding the flow lever, all our externals filters can have the flow *reduced* for maintenance and feeding times but should not be permanently *restricted*, this is why we do not recommend the in-lining of any product as this will restrict flow. Permanent restriction may compromise the efficiency and durability of the filter as would a car hand brake if you were to drive with it half on.'_
_


Wookii said:



			I want to go with the G6 as I hope to upgrade to a larger tank in a year or so
		
Click to expand...

_There's always the G3 if you want something smaller, depends how much bigger the other tank could be.
_


Wookii said:



			I’m assuming the difference between the 1000lph (considering it’s 2460lph motor) rating of the G6 and the 1250lph rating of the Oase 600 is simply because the latter is also a motor rating, whereas the former is with the canister full of media?
		
Click to expand...

_From what I was told it's to do with resistance from media, head loss etc but if the graph on screen shows full flow then it should be running an actual 10000 LPH.
No idea about other stated filter turnover rates and how they deliver compared to stated - I think that's a whole different topic.


Wookii said:


> If I was adding Purigen to the chemical cartridge, would I not be able to just insert the standard pre-bagged ones (rather than loose), or would they not fit?


Yes, just use an empty media chamber to put the bag in (essentially empty the carbon and put the bag in)



Siege said:


> Bugger all room for media


serious question - how much should you have?


Siege said:


> Horrible brittle plastic that hurts your fingers everytime you touch it!


If the prime pump gets stuck that area is a bit of a nuisance as can the priming then which is the only place I ever find the plastic annoying. Where do you find it brittle Steven?


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