# New flood light project commin up..



## zozo (5 Jun 2019)

New idea, i thought why not share it, because it actualy needs no testing. Anyway lately i was googling for dimmable  LED floodlight.. Ready made they simply do not excist, at least not in a white light version, only the party version RGB is dimmable.

Tho i always kinda end up with the R7S dimmable led units. Thats actualy the led replacement for the old fashion Metal halide floodlights r7s fitting.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Dimmable+R7S+LED+COB+Tube&_sacat=0

 And found out that the floodlight housing for r7s are getting more and more obsolete and cheaper day by day. Found me a pair r7s fitting 500watt 118mm floodlight versions brand new for less than €6,- a piece.
https://www.toolstation.nl/buiten-breedstraler/p13443?searchstr=breedstraler

It only needs a cable and a lamp.. And that would be the dimmable r7s cobled version.. 12 watt 1000lum. for $3.50

That would be a dimmable 220 volt floodlight for less than €10, only need to add a cable and a dimmer.

The only thing that still needs testing, rather sellers confirmation is if these r7s cob units are dimmable with the TC423 - VAC220 version. If so i would be completely happy and have a programmable controlled VAC220 led light setup.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TC420-TC42...hash=item3d8a76c3e1:m:mGkZxpHHT38P7dHAThPVGEw
Still waiting for a possitive answer.. I suspect it wont be a problem, but rather ask before buying and find out.


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## Edvet (5 Jun 2019)

Nice find.
Not sure wether they are as bright as my 125W Metalhalide bulbs.


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## zozo (5 Jun 2019)

Edvet said:


> Nice find.
> Not sure wether they are as bright as my 125W Metalhalide bulbs.



No not near as bright and probably not near as hot.. This cob type goes about + 100 lum per watt in average. Than since it double sided caoting we have some loss at the reflector. The 118mm long unit goes up to 15 watt till now 1800 lumen is so for the strongest i could find. For even stronger yo need to go for the 1800mm version. Anyway i don't need a bom of light, i only wanted a easy dimmable option in a flood light model at VAC220. This is the only option so far and a rather affordable one as well. 

Oh!? And it get seven beter the TC423 seller replied and confirmed, dimming this with the TC423 works a charm.. Thus it is programable controllable directly from the mains with this device.  Thus one could take 5 x 1800 lumen with the 118mm type for a start and ramp it up and down automated during the complete cycle per channel independently.

You actualy could use a different diy hood and mount the r7s fittings to it..


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## Edvet (5 Jun 2019)




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## zozo (5 Jun 2019)

Wow! found these
25W-2800 Lumens at 118mm - 2700k - 6500k
https://www.ebay.com/itm/293067772329

Compared to 120 watt MH bulb is 2250 lumen only at 3000k

Ordered me a set 25 Watt 6500k too, since its dimmable watt can go wrong..


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## rebel (6 Jun 2019)

Tell you what, I reckon you should get a ADA metal halide or similar fancy fixture and retrofit em. Will look great!


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## Filip Krupa (7 Jun 2019)

Looking forward to this!

Big fan of LED floodlights. I’ve 9 x 50W over my tank. The light actually feels warm on your hand 
Not dimmable though

Fil


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## zozo (7 Jun 2019)

It will take a while before all ordered stuff arrives. I guess at least 6 weeks.. But ordered 4 dimmabe led units 12 and 25 watt and the TC423 controller.
To only need to install 2 lights. And only will need it for the winter periode.. But i try to fix it in place up and runnng long before..


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## Tim Harrison (7 Jun 2019)

Sounds like it could be a great project, be good to see step by step instructions.


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## zozo (8 Jun 2019)

Tim Harrison said:


> Sounds like it could be a great project, be good to see step by step instructions.



It will be awfully simple.. First step is find a dealer of the old type r7s floodlight hood. Like bellow.


 
Either only the hood or a complete light.. In a way it seems people are forgetting about these older types and are not sold  a lot anymore.
I was lucky found a shop that still has over 30pcs, r7s replacement hoods for 500 watt mh bulb in store. selling them for € 5.50 a piece.
After it arrived, must say it's not heavy dutty professional quality material it is made in. Maybe not long lived if dragged around over a building site every day. But perfect for the occasion as fixed lightsource indoor and outdoor.

Step 2. Swap the MH bulb for a r7s cob led in desired intensity.. If you have a complete flood light you are, ready to plug it into the mains with an ordinary light dimmer on the socket.  

Step 3 connecting and programming the TC423. I'll come back to that when its in..


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## Hudson (8 Jun 2019)

Intrested in this conversion myself as i have just purchased a 2nd hand ADA 60p setup that came with a ADA Solar I metal Halide but the bulbs are massivley expensive so was planning on swapping it out for a Twinstar or similar


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## rebel (9 Jun 2019)

Filip Krupa said:


> The light actually feels warm on your hand


That would be the IR light hitting ya hand I assume.


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## Dieni (21 Jun 2019)

zozo said:


> It will take a while before all ordered stuff arrives. I guess at least 6 weeks.. But ordered 4 dimmabe led units 12 and 25 watt and the TC423 controller.
> To only need to install 2 lights. And only will need it for the winter periode.. But i try to fix it in place up and runnng long before..



Got any updates? Been doing some searching on these bulbs, but the lumens numbers seem to be all over the place and being chinese, On several occasions I found out that chinese bulbs don't output what they stated...


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## zozo (21 Jun 2019)

Dieni said:


> Got any updates? Been doing some searching on these bulbs, but the lumens numbers seem to be all over the place and being chinese, On several occasions I found out that chinese bulbs don't output what they stated...


 I'm still waiting on the order to arrive.. But i'll update on it as soon as it is up and running.

I know that lumen specs always is a big questionmark, especialy if it is designed for a hood with reflector.. That is not only for LED but actualy for any type of light bulb that initialy is not intented as a light for vivarium use. Same as for color rendition given in K value is very inconsistent.

Till now i covered the issue with always using a dimmer and dimmable led setups and take my chances with ordereing at least double the power i thiink i need. Than if it only delivers 50% of the stated specs than i'm still good to go. Regarding the color, i'll take my chances on 6500K what ever that thruly will be.

Depending on the pratcical possiblity the light setup gives me and if i can (DIY) install 2 diffent colors for example 1 x 2700K and 1 x 6500K than i still can render color with the dimmer. But this is something for later.. As said first i take my chances with 6500K only and see from there.


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## Dieni (22 Jun 2019)

zozo said:


> Depending on the pratcical possiblity the light setup gives me and if i can (DIY) install 2 diffent colors for example 1 x 2700K and 1 x 6500K than i still can render color with the dimmer. But this is something for later.. As said first i take my chances with 6500K only and see from there.



It will be interesting to see the results.

Have you ever tried any of these?  They seem to be a good alternative, although you would need to diy a housing for them...


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## zozo (22 Jun 2019)

Dieni said:


> Have you ever tried any of these?  They seem to be a good alternative, although you would need to diy a housing for them...



Yes i did use comparable types, 2 of them i believe 75 Watt each in an aluminium hood.. I experienced them getting extrmely hot.. The issue i ran into was, the hood was not ventilated and it trapped all hot air generated by the led units under it. The LEDs started to flicker after 15 minutes, because the lak of heat dissipation. Heat is the leds worst ennemi.. I had build a forced fan cooling into the hood to solve the problem. As soon as the light switches on the fan starts running and blows cool air over the led units, than all was fine.

That is an issue to take into consideration with high wattage led units in a closed housing with little ventilation. You need a sufficient heatsink and or a forced fan cooling. Ask the vendor if heatsink is required.. Proper heatsinks are harder to find than the led units requiring it and can be rather expensive in relation to the led. Than a forced fan cooling is a cheaper and better option.

Not so long ago i did build this from 12 volt  cob leds.. They are actualy much easier to controll and stay much cooler.
https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/cob-led-alu-mecanno-style-light-stand.50248/


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## becks (23 Jun 2019)

Might be worth checking the flood lights are earthed, I’ve took some of the Chinese led flood light units apart and there was no earth connected (they are not class 2 double insulated)


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## rebel (24 Jun 2019)

Dieni said:


> It will be interesting to see the results.
> 
> Have you ever tried any of these?  They seem to be a good alternative, although you would need to diy a housing for them...


Wow those chips that you linked here even have par values recorded!!!
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328...8.0&pvid=0b48e75a-b053-460a-8330-5c6949791a8c


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## zozo (24 Jun 2019)

rebel said:


> Wow those chips that you linked here even have par values recorded!!!
> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328...8.0&pvid=0b48e75a-b053-460a-8330-5c6949791a8c



Yes that is interesting.. But they definitively need a heatsink and i guess a rather big one. And a fan cooling if build into a closed hood like a floodlight casing..

It aint difficult.. Lately i made a 15000 lumen monster flood light from this unit.
https://www.banggood.com/150W-15000...-p-1173608.html?ID=383748036&cur_warehouse=CN

I also used a simple floodlight hood as above only the large 1000 watt  MH version. It wasn't for aqaurium but meant as oitdoor floodlight. It hangs in a friends garden now, to light our Petanque play field.. Unfortunately i didn't document the build.

But this was the result.

Frontview



Left side Air vents sucking in..




Right side 80mm DC12 volt fan cooling blowing out.



Used a regular small dc12 volt 1 amp psu and cut off the plug and wired it to the mains. If the mains are pluged in the fan runs full pseed as long as the LED is burning.

Still used 2 of these heatsinks 100x60x10mm to make the unit fit the floodlight and still use part of the original reflector. Still gets pretty hot, but since it is for outdoor use obviously nights only, its cool enough to do the job.

https://www.banggood.com/100x60x10m...-p-1391731.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN

A bit much for aqaurium use i guess..
Was a fun build.. Could be sized down, stuff to diy it is out there..


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## Dieni (24 Jun 2019)

zozo said:


> Yes i did use comparable types, 2 of them i believe 75 Watt each in an aluminium hood.. I experienced them getting extrmely hot.. The issue i ran into was, the hood was not ventilated and it trapped all hot air generated by the led units under it. The LEDs started to flicker after 15 minutes, because the lak of heat dissipation. Heat is the leds worst ennemi.. I had build a forced fan cooling into the hood to solve the problem. As soon as the light switches on the fan starts running and blows cool air over the led units, than all was fine.
> 
> That is an issue to take into consideration with high wattage led units in a closed housing with little ventilation. You need a sufficient heatsink and or a forced fan cooling. Ask the vendor if heatsink is required.. Proper heatsinks are harder to find than the led units requiring it and can be rather expensive in relation to the led. Than a forced fan cooling is a cheaper and better option.
> 
> ...



Nice light that you have built there .

But with regards to the AC leds, 75w in a single led is a lot. I can imagine that it would need some proper cooling. I am planning to get some of the leds I linked and do a diy setup with them, with heatsinks and fans etc... 


The 150w led should have a warning sign on it. Sunglasses need to be worn when light is on


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## rebel (25 Jun 2019)

@zozo That build is superb with the integrated fans! But I think it's out of the scope for many. I don't think people should muck around with 220V AC unless they have some training etc. In Australia it's illegal to make such connections due to electrocution/ fires etc (insurance won't cover you in Australia). 

For most of us plebs, I think DC is safer to play with and keep it below 24V. Most of our builds can be achieved with very low voltage and this makes it safe to mix with water as well.


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## zozo (25 Jun 2019)

My Mission Bathtub always turns into a Mission cement tub in the cellar during the winter times. To keep the frost sensitive plants alive and growing during the winter, it also has a 150 watt AC 220 LED light. 2 x 75 watt 6500K COB unit 7400 lumen each..

I skipped the aesthetics with this one since it hangs to the cellars ceiling.. A very crude build using scraps purely functional only but it has everything needed integrated Fan and timer.

Just a simple old aluminium hood from a Phillips Horticulter MH HPE grow light.





For heatsink i used simple aluminium square tube profile with the fan blowing in and over..
https://www.banggood.com/45-X-160MM...ead-For-Flood-Light-AC110220V-p-1124765.html?




Works like a charm, but not without the a fan if build into a hood..  Hoods trap to much warm air, than it requires some vent and a massive heatsink.



rebel said:


> I don't think people should muck around with 220V AC unless they have some training etc.



You are 100% correct, playing with AC and water near can be very hazardous.. Fortunately with the use of leds it all can be made in DC low voltage as well, but this requires a tad more than basic training and a bit more investment with the constant current needed.


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## zozo (3 Jul 2019)

It's in and i'm testing it and it seems to work.  So far.

Connecting the TC423 to mains is pretty straight foreward, tho it doesn not have a ground connection. And what i don't realy like is it doesn't come with a cover over the connectors. Thus it's wise not to run thiis thing in the open where kids or pets or even adults are able to touch the leads when it's running. But it in a cabinet or maybe even beter in its own closed case.




Connecting the lamp is the same thing, 2 wires Live and Nutral, but since it is AC it actualy doesn't realy mater .. But each lamp needs a V+ connection and its seperate CH connection which is the nutral. Again also this doesn't come with a ground connection. If you whish to have this you need to come up with something a board with sockets wired to the TC with a ground to the mains.

Looking closer at the dimmable R7S bulbs it looks like the LEDs are all placed at 1 side on a transparent pcb what gives it a 360° beam angle.




That drop weld on the tube needs to be pointed towards the reflector from the hood. And it gives a tad more light.. 





The TC423 comes with the LED Control V2.0 software, that actualy is writen for the TC421 Wifi version. But the TC423 is not WIfi.. The manual on the disk only elaborates on the buttons on the device and not connnecting to the PC. . Unbelievable incomplete manual giving you a run around connecting it.

As the erroneously writen error message will tell. Not Fount Plaese to search..  Those Chinese translators realy know how to give a professional impression..




Ok, click search.. 




After fiddling a bit clicking buttons i figured out it should be configured with the USB driver first. This one is under the menu Controll.




After which you get this and click OK




I didn't try but it could be if you have USB ports using seperate USB drivers you need to perform this again after switching USB port. Thus behold and remember, the manual says nothing about this.

Than after its connected do a time sync by clicking the Clock Icon and you hear a beep and see the time synced on the devices display.

Than hit the File icon in the top menu list a window pops up, enter a name and click save, a Name.lcm file will be saved. Than click the +File icon in the Modelist and another window pops up, enter a name and a mode file Name.Lmf is created in the mode list.

Now you can set the time schedule, it works as a slider from 1% to 100% for each ½ hour. Setting per percent with the use of the mouse as a slider is a major hasle.
When a time table is selected you can also use the Arrow left and Right key on your keyboard. one short press on the arow key is 1% up or down. Again this is something not specified in the manual. . Thus again remember this. (Obviously this also goes with teh TC421 Wifi version after all its the same software)

Anyway the software does not come with a jump setting, you can not switch the led from 0% to 100% immediately. It always takes an ½ hour as shown bellow from 07.30 till 08.00 to slowly ramp up till the set percentage. And visa versa dimming down from 18.00 till 18.30.





Why the software writers did change that i dunno, the old Pled software from the TC420 actualy is easier to use and more straight foreward. Unfortunately the TC423 does not work with the old PLed version software.  That's a hardware upgrade making it suitable for VAC220 and definitively a software downgrade. And i thought it were smart and educated people developing devices like this. Go figure, who was it again who said, beeing educated says little about intelligents.

The software definitively has some dumb flaws, the Test Play mode doesn't work properly, but in the end it works more or less. Once a mode is installed to the device it runs hardcoded as set.

ANyway, these are the 12 watt led units i ran today.. Still waiting on the 25 watts to arrive and test them. Before i start drilling holes to mount it above the tank..


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## Dieni (3 Jul 2019)

So far so good. Can't wait to see the final result


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## rebel (4 Jul 2019)

Epic documentation @zozo . Love your work!

Question: How is that LED cooled? I can only see insulation around it (air) with a glass around the whole thing!!!!????


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## rebel (4 Jul 2019)

btw, the fact it's silly software is because China only cares of selling the first batch (sometimes they only run one batch) and then moving on to another product. They do not care about whether you like it or not, or even whether it actually works.

The exposed AC220 wiring (without ground) is a prime example of this. The person who dies of electrocution from this doesn't post on forums or complain. However he contributes to one sold item.


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## zozo (4 Jul 2019)

rebel said:


> Question: How is that LED cooled? I can only see insulation around it (air) with a glass around the whole thing!!!!????



They are not, probably do not require cooling, i touched a tube after an hour burning and they were not realy burning hot. i have 1 connected and running now for the complete required shedule of 12 hours 100% Thats so far for the 12 Watt 1000 lumen cob version. The controler runs the set schedule smoothly and the led performs steadily.

And i'm glad i ordered 4 pieces and only need 2, already have one malfunctioning and starts to flicker after a while. Have to message the vendor about that. Still have to test run the other 2.

I wondered myself how these cob units are driven, because there is little room in that tube voor a driver.. Looking realy close i count over 120 tiny led beads on a 65mm x 7mm x 2mm pcb with 6  other realy tiny components that must be rectifier diodes and resistors converting it to a constant voltage unit. Actualy a nice peice of Micro Electronics development but sensitive. 

Have yet no idea about the 25 watts i ordered. But in the 118mm tube version the 25 watt is about the limit, they do not come stronger in these demimensions. SO i guess up to 25 watt can run without any extra cooling.



rebel said:


> btw, the fact it's silly software is because China only cares of selling the first batch (sometimes they only run one batch) and then moving on to another product. They do not care about whether you like it or not, or even whether it actually works.
> 
> The exposed AC220 wiring (without ground) is a prime example of this. The person who dies of electrocution from this doesn't post on forums or complain. However he contributes to one sold item.



I guess so, i actualy dislike the Ledcontrol software very much.. And miss the jump setting and some other features and have wifi features not useable on this device.. They never should have changed it, the first PLED software is near perfect and far better version.  Giving 50 random set time stamps adjustable per minute and percent with a fade or a jump setting.




The new version software is very poorly writen and feels unfinished.. I think i write a message to the developer asking if the firmware on the TC423 can be installed with Pled software. I'm willing to buy the required firmware flasher if still available.


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## zozo (4 Jul 2019)

Miscounted it, thats 3x31 = 93 led beads and 6 other visible components..  I'm actualy quite impressed about the performance they manage to pull out off such tiny piece.


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## zozo (5 Jul 2019)

This is the difference




Same amount of led beads but a bigger format.. The 25 Watt also is significantly stronger..

The bottom one is the malfuctionung 12 watt that flickers when connected to a dimmer. Also made a bit croocked, maybe it makes a bad contact because of this dunno.. Don't care i don't think its fixable.. The seller promised me a refund anyway.. 

And since it runs on a dimmer i install the 25 watts.. And keep the 12 watts as spare in case..

All complete, all tested.. Now its time to wire it all up.. 

Btw i found a small label on the foodlights i bought, they seem to be a UK manufactured or distributed product. The label is from
CED Electrical group - Essex.. The Brand is Meridian Lighting..
https://meridianlighting.co.uk/productdetails_/Corn-(SON--Metal-Halide-Replacement)/FL500
I bought it for €5.80 a piece no idea for how much they go in the UK at GPB, you would suspect a tad cheaper, if it can be shipped from UK to main land Europe for that price.

That + €6.50 for the dimmable 25 watt bulb,
rounded up €12.50 for a dimmable floodlight alledgedly 2800 lumens max. If that aint a bargin?


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## Edvet (5 Jul 2019)

I came across these LED'lamps for use in terraria/vivaria, not extremely strong but seeing i have NO knowledge of tinkering with electronics something to try out
http://www.veenapackersindia.com/im...arium-light-bulb-b0768nbyqx-306-500x500_0.jpg


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## zozo (5 Jul 2019)

Edvet said:


> I came across these LED'lamps for use in terraria/vivaria, not extremely strong but seeing i have NO knowledge of tinkering with electronics something to try out
> http://www.veenapackersindia.com/im...arium-light-bulb-b0768nbyqx-306-500x500_0.jpg



Well with a E27 screw fitting there aint much thinkering going on, it screwing it into an E27 fitting and connect it to the mains as any other ordinary household lamp. Nothing to be afraid of..  If its dimmable all depends on the internal driver..

Tho its an SMD led setup, personaly i tried a few SMD led setups in the past and they always kinda dissapoint me performance wise. SMD is still widely used, but it gets completely outcompeted by the younger COB designs. COB is much more bundled at a smaller surface than SMD.

Compare it to those MH replacements bulbs with 91 light sources over a surface of 65mm x 10mm giving +/- 2800 lumen at 25 watt. I have the latest for now best performing SMD setup 2100 lummen at 19 watt with 72 sources but spread over 1000x10mm strip surface. In terms of PPFD and PAR the COB rocks the boat, obvious even without knowing excact numbers..

INMHO, forget about SMD, its about oldfashion technique..


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## Edvet (5 Jul 2019)

Any easy COB designs for "noobs"?


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## zozo (5 Jul 2019)

Edvet said:


> Any easy COB designs for "noobs"?



Huh?.. Trying to present it with this thread..  I don't think there is an easier way for now. These R7S cob led replacements are connected the same as any other AC bulb. A Live and a Nutral and a Ground wire if its in a metal hood. If you buy a completely wired R7S floodlight its as simple as put in the bulb and plug into the mains and your done.

The thing is, since they took the old fashion glow tungsten light from the market.. It might be hard to find Metal Halide FLood lights in the shops nowadays. Search for it in the Dutch Language as Halogeen Breedstraler.

https://www.gamma.nl/assortiment/gamma-breedstraler-zwart-400w/p/B461609

(Ik zeg het Gama! )


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## Edvet (5 Jul 2019)

zozo said:


> Huh?.. Trying to present it with this thread.


Yeah but i see you tinkering with drivers and software and threads and screws.................not "noob friendly"


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## zozo (5 Jul 2019)

Edvet said:


> Yeah but i see you tinkering with drivers and software and threads and screws.................not "noob friendly"



Ok that's the automated programable dimming part.. you can skip that and also plug the light into any ordenary household dimmer pluged again into a timer from the hardware store..


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## Edvet (5 Jul 2019)

( on the other hand i can and will take a dog apart and put it back together again....., easy peasy)


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## zozo (5 Jul 2019)

Edvet said:


> ( on the other hand i can and will take a dog apart and put it back together again....., easy peasy)



Go for Neurosurgery, than you also learn the wiring part..


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## dw1305 (5 Jul 2019)

Hi all,





Edvet said:


> not extremely strong but seeing i have NO knowledge of tinkering with electronics something to try out


I have two of these in one of the tanks in the lab. and they are fine for low tech.

cheers Darrel


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## Edvet (5 Jul 2019)

dw1305 said:


> low tech


Some people say these are very good voor terraria, guessing terraria are low light then? Never gave that a thought yet, guessing high tech tanks are needing the highest light in the pet hobbies.


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## zozo (5 Jul 2019)

Edvet said:


> Some people say these are very good voor terraria, guessing terraria are low light then?



Not neseccarily, some high light terrariums excist.. Most likely depending on the plant species they are inhabiting..

According to this Dutch article about floating plants for large tanks. With a side note added for Terrarium keepers regarding Phyllanthus sp., keeping this plant as carpet in wet and high lighted terrariums
.
https://nbat.nl/artikelen/planten/drijfplanten-voor-grote-aquaria


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## Edvet (5 Jul 2019)

http://www.neherpetoculture.com/vivariumlighting101


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## Dieni (5 Jul 2019)

zozo said:


> This is the difference
> View attachment 125633
> 
> Same amount of led beads but a bigger format.. The 25 Watt also is significantly stronger..
> ...



These Chinese definitely lack quality control hehe, but for the price you can't complain. 

I  had found these leds on Amazon, I am sure they are better quality but for the price, they might not be worthed, plus they are warm white...


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## zozo (17 Jul 2019)

All wired up and done so far..  Took a while gave the floodlights a paint job that needed to dry etc.




To give a proper good fitting screw connection i soldered fork connectors to the wires




My personal choice, some may not agree, but since the TC unit doesn't come with a ground i connected the whole without a ground. Simply i have no grounded sockets in my living room and all will be permanently fixed to the wall about 50cm above the tank. I made sure everything is properly insulated and connected (soldered). It doesn't get hot and personaly i do not see a problem. I've seen people use IKEA lights over tanks connected without a grounded plug and or even Eheim heatings in the the tank that don't have grounded plugs.. This seems to be common practice that never recieves a remark. Anyway, i don't recomend it, wiring without ground, but its the way i did it as a personal choice.

What i didn't like on the TC unit is the connectors don't come with a cover, since it is VAC 220 i made a cover myself. With a piece of 4mm thick acrylic that fits perfectly in the slot above the connectors. I guess the slot is made for that, but the unit simply doesn't come with a cover supplied. Anyway, unscrew the bracket, connect all wires, slide on the cover, screw the bracket back and done.a snugly fit that goes nowhere.








For the programming and since i yet do not know what the intensity will bring me.. I set it up like this.




created 5 modes, each is a 12 hour cycle, 100% 12 hours down to 60% 12 hours. I guess 60% is what i need the least.. Thus i can step it down per 10% if 10012 is a tad to much.. 

The panic mode is 24-7 all 100%.. That if when what ever happens and i need light i have it any time of the day. 

Snooze is a 5% moonlight effect after 20PM.. I can switch on when i like it.. Late hours still awake or having visit and like to show it off.. Why would i want moon light when i'm a sleep or not around? 

Now its time to hang it to the wall above tha tank and shine a light on it..


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## Edvet (17 Jul 2019)

Pro


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## rebel (17 Jul 2019)

Love your work @zozo.

Curious to see how long these LED globes last!


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## zozo (17 Jul 2019)

rebel said:


> Love your work @zozo.
> 
> Curious to see how long these LED globes last!



Me too, we shall see.. Stated is 50.000 hours.. But hey, at that price $ 7 a piece for the 25 watt i'm still happy if its ¼ of that.  But till now very little leds i bought died prematurely. Mainly its the small build in drivers that give up first. But these don't seem to have build in drivers, its so far ik can see, a rectifier setup and a resistor.

Anyway.. For now this is the cheapest and easiest to install dimmable led light setup i'd ever build. Summary. For convenience changing $ into € 

€ 43,99 - TC423
€ 13,98 - 2 x r7s cob units (2800 lumen each @ 100%)
€ 11,20 - 2 x old fashion FLood light hoods
€ 4 - cable
€0.40 - fork connectors

€ 73,57 total.





Didn't include the paintjob into the price.. But hence this is optional..







This is 4600 lumen extra on top of the day light..  Noticing the very same plants growing far better on the window sil right next to it. Than 150cm away from the window seems to make a big difference.. I felt like the plants can use an extra boost. Especialy when th dark winter period comes looking.

So far the build is a succes and completed.

Oh, btw the TC423 is obviously optional as well, it works equaly good on a ordinary dimmer and timer switch. Thus it can be a tad cheaper as well.

For further updates on it, to be continued in this Journal.
https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/where-the-jungle-meets-red-rock-creek.56867/page-6


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## zozo (17 Jul 2019)

rebel said:


> Love your work @zozo.



Thanks...


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## BarrowMills (18 Jul 2019)

Nice job Zozo, I am myself on the drawing board for creating a new LED light system.. When I started off about 3 months ago, I just bought two 50w led flood lights for a Fluval Roma 200 which at the moment are doing a great job at growing my plants with Co2.  Actually, I have to trim nearly twice a week now for my stem plants to keep them in order.

I am looking to build another light, something in the region like your's but I am in two minds regarding which one.  Use the TC controller with 5 different colours on the channels and control the brightness of each channel (RGB) to make the desired results
, or an ESP32 with WLED software for Android.  The only thing missing at the moment is being able to set each segment of the WRGB to what ever colour you wish in the software.  I have been in contact with the developer and he states he will be introducing it in the coming months.

While the flood lights are nice and powerful for the bang for buck, I am missing out on the reds, greens, etc popping in my tank..Hence why I would like to venture down to creating my own WRGB high light fitting.

The led strips I was thinking for the project are these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32970484615.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.7cfb3c00vLabJw which the developer of the WLED application recommend.


EDIT:  I forgot to add the Github page of the features
https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED

Any ideas or input would be great regarding the above.

PS..  I love the look of your project, even the walls of the house look real nostalgic

regards


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## zozo (18 Jul 2019)

BarrowMills said:


> Nice job Zozo, I am myself on the drawing board for creating a new LED light system.. When I started off about 3 months ago, I just bought two 50w led flood lights for a Fluval Roma 200 which at the moment are doing a great job at growing my plants with Co2.  Actually, I have to trim nearly twice a week now for my stem plants to keep them in order.
> 
> I am looking to build another light, something in the region like your's but I am in two minds regarding which one.  Use the TC controller with 5 different colours on the channels and control the brightness of each channel (RGB) to make the desired results
> , or an ESP32 with WLED software for Android.  The only thing missing at the moment is being able to set each segment of the WRGB to what ever colour you wish in the software.  I have been in contact with the developer and he states he will be introducing it in the coming months.
> ...



Thank you.. 

The only advice i can give you is steer away from the flexible strips that need to be glued.. In the end they will let go, especialy in moist invironments. Other thing is when they are rated IP67 they are most likely silicon coated and this will turn yellow over time at the cost of intensity. Personaly i would advice non coated Ridgid aluminium smd led strip that can be slided into a aluminium profile with a cover. This can be water proofed easily if needed.

For the rest when it comes to smd RGB strips is they lak a bit of intensity.. But obvously this also depends on the setup high or low tech..  And last time i played with RGB is over 4 years ago.. Since led industry evolves like a rocket with about 3 or 4 new different led types devloped per year.. I realy have no clue what's out there nowadays and how it performs.


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## BarrowMills (18 Jul 2019)

Hi, thanks for your input !!  It's always great to ask to see if anyone has been there / done that, before I go wasting my time in R&D

The IP67 version you state are a little different now.  I do know the silicone version you refer to, I actually have these for under my kitchen cabinets, these I think are rated @ IP65 ?  The version I am thinking of getting is covered via a plastic sheet that seems to offer a little bit of diffusing.  As in regards to brightness, the SK6812 offer a cold white version of RGB which helps I gather as I do know the RGB on it's own doesn't offer that great of whiteness.  I would be using a good amount of these lights probably around 10 meters of a big of WRGB and Cold white Leds.

Also regarding the strips and their adhesive, I could not agree more ! during my use of these for the last few years they have become unfixed etc...  I have found these clips that might be of use ? what do you think ?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32961027618.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.31be3c00CBO2EQ

Either way, thanks for your advice, I will stop bombing your thread here and start my own when I decide which route to go, I hope you see you there too !

Regards


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## zozo (18 Jul 2019)

BarrowMills said:


> Also regarding the strips and their adhesive, I could not agree more ! during my use of these for the last few years they have become unfixed etc... I have found these clips that might be of use ? what do you think ?
> 
> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32961027618.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.31be3c00CBO2EQ



Its a trail and error or succes, that's diy....  Give it a go.. Personaly i stand by the ridged strips.. Can also be mounted with these clips.. Anything flexible if in comes off it will hang in between the clips. Or you need to clip them every 3 cm or such.. 



BarrowMills said:


> I will stop bombing your thread here


Never mind..  That's what threads are for, ask related questions..


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## tam (18 Jul 2019)

Nice! Just needs some white cable covers, or a matching tall plant for the right hand side.


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## Chris Tinker (12 Aug 2019)

had a big read through this... getting my brother in law to have a look (he likes DIY jobs and electrics )

how do you think the 25w would work on plastic tubing?


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## zozo (12 Aug 2019)

Chris Tinker said:


> how do you think the 25w would work on plastic tubing?



I have no idea where you are thinking off with plastic tubing. I geuss you're thinking of to inclose the led tubes in plastic tube?. The glass tube the led is in gets warm, i didn't measure any temps but pretty warm i can tell. Depending on the plastic? And as the name plastic implies as in plasticity, temperatur has a great infleunce on this. For example the temperatur for acrylic to become pliable is rather low at about 80°C than 60°C will already make it relatively soft. For hard PVC it will be in about the same range.

So i guess as long as you stay far enough away from the heat source for the plastic not to exceed its plasticity temperatur you are good to go.


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## Chris Tinker (12 Aug 2019)

zozo said:


> I have no idea where you are thinking off with plastic tubing. I geuss you're thinking of to inclose the led tubes in plastic tube?. The glass tube the led is in gets warm, i didn't measure any temps but pretty warm i can tell. Depending on the plastic? And as the name plastic implies as in plasticity, temperatur has a great infleunce on this. For example the temperatur for acrylic to become pliable is rather low at about 80°C than 60°C will already make it relatively soft. For hard PVC it will be in about the same range.
> 
> So i guess as long as you stay far enough away from the heat source for the plastic not to exceed its plasticity temperatur you are good to go.




so my problem is how to use this method in my hood..



 

 

i have 4 hooks where the lights sit and i was thinking some tubing to sit these lights in... cut out the area below the light to allow it to shine down... but the tube would sit across the tank, cables in the tubing to link them up. 

am i making any sense? 

i could try to use metal clips to raise it off the plastic? can you get glass tubing? 

i cant think of a way to do lights other than method already used...


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## zozo (12 Aug 2019)

Good luck, that's a nice challange.. I yet never builded something for a hooded tank other than with IP68 smd led strips. 

With the use of r7s cob led replacment tubes you still would need a pair of lamp base fittings per tube that need to be accessible. 
Not so sure this is the best option for a hooded aqaurium.. But honestly i don't know, i don't have one to brainstorm about..


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## Chris Tinker (13 Aug 2019)

zozo said:


> Good luck, that's a nice challange.. I yet never builded something for a hooded tank other than with IP68 smd led strips.
> 
> With the use of r7s cob led replacment tubes you still would need a pair of lamp base fittings per tube that need to be accessible.
> Not so sure this is the best option for a hooded aqaurium.. But honestly i don't know, i don't have one to brainstorm about..



what are your thoughts for a hood? i could just buy a dual connection and T5 tubing.....


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## mort (13 Aug 2019)

Hi zozo, can I ask what the large house plant in your last picture is please?


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## Chris Tinker (13 Aug 2019)

@zozo 

any reason these wouldnt work just off the shelf? 

with a chip i assume dimmable? 

https://www.smart-light.co.uk/product/20w-led-floodlight-smd-samsung-chip-grey-body/

i could just buy two wooden pieces connect them (so they don roll) and screw these on...


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## zozo (13 Aug 2019)

I would go with something like this if its for low tech.

www.aliexpress.com/item/32949546551.html

Cover is your preference.. And you need to waterproof them with some silicone..

It's DC 12 volt constant voltage PSU.. 36 leds p/50cm x >62 lum p/l x 36 = 2232 lumen minimal per 50 cm strip @ 11 watt.

Cheap and easy to install..  And dimmable via PWM.


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## zozo (13 Aug 2019)

mort said:


> Hi zozo, can I ask what the large house plant in your last picture is please?



You mean this one?





That's a 10 year old over 2 metre high Shefflera..   I believe UK common name is Umbrella Plant. Very easy and undemanding, at least for me it is.


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## Chris Tinker (13 Aug 2019)

sorry to bug you, but you seem to have more knowledge.. well more knowledge than anyone i know 

https://cpc.farnell.com/v-tac/402-vt-30-b/floodlight-led-30w-6400k-black/dp/LA07365

going to google about lumens...


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## zozo (13 Aug 2019)

Chris Tinker said:


> https://cpc.farnell.com/v-tac/402-vt-30-b/floodlight-led-30w-6400k-black/dp/LA07365
> 
> going to google about lumens...



Good choice if this fits..  Why not..


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## Chris Tinker (13 Aug 2019)

i am now thinking two wooden poles (to fot existing hood and brackets.

screw a side ways with a block so they dont rotate and to allow me to screw a flood light too it. 

two flood lights £20-30 and some wood....


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## Chris Tinker (13 Aug 2019)

my brother inlaw came round to brain storm...

first checking the ones i had...

he asked me, chris i dont want to ask a stupid question and i assume you have checked, but just so we can move forward, have you checked the fuse....

no paul, no i have not.

checks fuse... hey look it was the fuse... *pop* o... yea its blown that fuse too....


cheers paul, i have no lights now


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## mort (13 Aug 2019)

Thanks zozo, I recognise it now you say it's a schefflera,  the ones I see in the shops have smallet leaves that make it look different. Nice to see what they can grow into.


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