# Fluval Plant 3.0



## REDSTEVEO (18 Jun 2020)

I recently bought the Fluval Plant 3.0 LED Light for my aquarium. It operates via Bluetooth and has a Manual, Auto and Pro functionality.

I am quite impressed with the versatility of this light, but still not found what would be considered to be the perfect settings for each light spectrum or the intensity.

Has anyone else who has got this light and has found the perfect settings to keep plants healthy and without creating algae?

TIA


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## REDSTEVEO (18 Jun 2020)

Above are the settings I'm using in the Auto function. Here are the settings in the Pro and Manual settings.


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## Nick72 (18 Jun 2020)

I've had the Plant 3.0 for around a year now.

I had the Plant 2.0 before that.

Before committing on the above can you answer the following :

1) What size is your tank WxDxH?

2) Are you injecting CO2?

3) What percentage of your substrate is planted (how much plant mass do you have)?

4) What is your fertiliser / fertiliser regime?


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## REDSTEVEO (18 Jun 2020)

Nick72 said:


> I've had the Plant 3.0 for around a year now.
> 
> I had the Plant 2.0 before that.
> 
> ...



The tank is an Eheim 400 litre tank,  LxWxH = 130cmx55cmx55cm

Not injecting CO2 at the moment, using Easylife Carbo but I've got all the kit for injecting CO2 if I wanted to. But I've got 2.5 inch juvenile Discus in there so not using CO2 I je tion.

60% of substrate is planted, but only recently added the plants.

Not using any fertilisers at present, but have followed the EI Dosing regime on previous tanks.


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## alto (18 Jun 2020)

REDSTEVEO said:


> Not injecting CO2 at the moment, using Easylife Carbo but I've got all the kit for injecting CO2 if I wanted to. But I've got 2.5 inch juvenile Discus in there



This product isn’t available locally but I’m assuming it’s similar to Seachem Excel re this Aquasabi article
https://www.aquasabi.com/aquascaping-wiki_algae_easy-carbo-treatment

I’m not sure I’d consider it more “benign” than low levels(5-15 mg/l)  of injected (pressurized) CO2


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## Nick72 (18 Jun 2020)

Nice tank.

I'm no plant expert but it looks like you have mainly low to medium light plants.

You also have a modest plant mass.

Without CO2 I would probably try:
Pink 50%
Blue 5%
Cold White 55%
Pure White 48%
Warm White 50%

For 7 hours per day.

That shouldn't give you much more than 40 Par at substrate.

A siesta is fine for a low light, no C02 tank, so your hour break should be fine.

I would avoid more than 1 hr ramp up and ramp down.

I would also have the lights completely off between ramp down and ramp up.

Edit:  I would suggest you are going to need to start adding fertilisers.  If it were me I would try 40% E.I. But with only 25% E.I. Nitrate as I understand Discus need around 10ppm Nitrate.


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## REDSTEVEO (18 Jun 2020)

Nick72 said:


> Without CO2 I would probably try:
> Pink 50%
> Blue 5%
> Cold White 55%
> ...


Is that on the Auto Function Setting? I shall reduce the ramp up and ramp down times.

Re the use of injected CO2 I stopped using it when I switched to a non planted tank. I am a bit wary of overdosing CO2 with the small Discus. 

Not quite sure exactly what you mean regarding 40% EI at 25%


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## REDSTEVEO (18 Jun 2020)

I have also tried every CO2 Diffuser on the planet and still not found one that works for long without clogging or malfunctioning


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## REDSTEVEO (18 Jun 2020)

New settings with reduced time


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## Ray (18 Jun 2020)

REDSTEVEO said:


> The tank is an Eheim 400 litre tank, LxWxH = 130cmx55cmx55cm


That’s a nice looking upgrade on your old Juwel Trigon which I still remember


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## Melv85 (18 Jun 2020)

Sorry to jump in on your thread @REDSTEVEO .
Hope you don’t mind.
 I got this light a little while ago. And was wondering the same thing, but for a high tech 12 inch deep tank, any thoughts would be appreciated


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## Nick72 (19 Jun 2020)

REDSTEVEO said:


> Is that on the Auto Function Setting? I shall reduce the ramp up and ramp down times.
> 
> Re the use of injected CO2 I stopped using it when I switched to a non planted tank. I am a bit wary of overdosing CO2 with the small Discus.
> 
> Not quite sure exactly what you mean regarding 40% EI at 25%



Hi @REDSTEVEO 

I just setup the Auto settings and leave the light on Auto 24/7.

Why not have the lights come on a 10:30 so you have an even 30 minutes ramp up and ramp down?

If you go to the Rotala Butterfly website, it will provide you with EI dosages of N, P, K, CSM+B, Mg, and Fe, measured for your 400L.   What I'm suggesting for your tank without injected CO2 is that you use 40% of the levels suggested by Rotala Butterfly, except for N which you should dose at 25%.

You can use booth these light settings and dosage settings as a base, and if no algae after 1 month push the lights 10% higher.    If poor growth after 1 month, increase EI dosage.

You can also test your water for NPK to see how much of your dosage the plants are using per week.


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## Nick72 (19 Jun 2020)

Melv85 said:


> Sorry to jump in on your thread @REDSTEVEO .
> Hope you don’t mind.
> I got this light a little while ago. And was wondering the same thing, but for a high tech 12 inch deep tank, any thoughts would be appreciated



Hi @Melv85 

That's a much harder question, but assuming that you are happy you have plenty of CO2 and good flow in the tank, and are dosing full E.I. ferts, and that you have a reasonably high plant mass:

Pink 70%
Blue 5%
Cold White 75%
Pure White 68%
Warm White 70%

This should give you at least 90 Par at substrate.  You will need to watch closely and dial it in from here.  For me it's almost inevitable you will get some algae growth with high lights, so I'd also you ensure you have a clean up crew (Nerite snails, Amano shrimp, Otocinclus) - I hear that a Siamese Algae Eater is the best.


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## REDSTEVEO (19 Jun 2020)

Melv85 said:


> Sorry to jump in on your thread @REDSTEVEO .
> Hope you don’t mind.
> I got this light a little while ago. And was wondering the same thing, but for a high tech 12 inch deep tank, any thoughts would be appreciated



@Melv85 no problem at all. I think Nick has probably answered your question. In my opinion a 12 inch deep tank is a tad on the shallow side for a light like the Fluval Plant 3.0. But mine is the largest model at 58 watts. You dont mention the length or width of your tank, only the depth. 

If you have the same light as mine I think you would either have to raise the light very high above the tank, or ramp down the light intensity a lot to avoid algae issues. 

Keep in touch and we'll see how we get on.

Thanks to @Nick72 for his input.


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## REDSTEVEO (19 Jun 2020)

Nick72 said:


> Hi @REDSTEVEO
> 
> I just setup the Auto settings and leave the light on Auto 24/7.
> 
> ...


Morning Nick,

Thanks ever so much for the help with these light settings. If I have the lights coming on at 10.30 and follow your advice of having a 7 hour light period, the lights will be going off at 5.30pm

I know this is probably for the best. But I do like seeing the tank in the evening, but to do that I would have to have them coming on at 12.30 to get the extra 2 hours in the evening, which is probably not good either.

This is one of the reasons why I was having a mess about with the Pro settings to see if I could have the lights in longer with a ramp down to lower light intensity sometime throughout the day for an hour or two.

What do you think?


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## jaypeecee (19 Jun 2020)

Nick72 said:


> Pink 70%
> Blue 5%
> Cold White 75%
> Pure White 68%
> Warm White 70%



Hi Folks,

I have to chuckle at a lighting fixture with a _pink_ option. It's high time that aquarium lighting manufacturers got serious about their products. I'm considering one of the offerings from this manufacturer for my tank:

https://www.ledaquaristik.de/epages/64355316.sf/en_GB/?ViewObjectPath=/Shops/64355316

JPC


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## Nick72 (19 Jun 2020)

@REDSTEVEO 

There is nothing wrong with the light coming on at 12:30 or even 16:30, if the aquarium is in reasonably dark conditions during lights off.

Unfortunately my tank is in the living room and my family open the curtains by 8am every day - my lights therefore turn off at 17:30.

So it really depends on where your tank is situated.

A one or two hour siesta in the middle of the day can be a good thing - as long as the tank is not getting lots of direct or ambient sunlight during this time.

What I would really caution against is having the lights set really low for several hours in the morning or evening - that's an algae growth plan.


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## jaypeecee (19 Jun 2020)

Hi Folks,

In order to get an idea of the light spectrum, I had previously suggested this:

https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/free-lighting-tool.60842/

Let me know if you have any questions.

JPC


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## jaypeecee (19 Jun 2020)

Nick72 said:


> What I would really caution against is having the lights set really low for several hours in the morning or evening - that's an algae growth plan.



Hi @Nick72 

That's interesting. Would you mind explaining this?

JPC


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## Nick72 (19 Jun 2020)

jaypeecee said:


> Hi @Nick72
> 
> That's interesting. Would you mind explaining this?
> 
> JPC



Just for you JPC:

1) Issues with starting lights on with a multi-hour period of low light.
Your plants will naturally open during this low light period and potentially close before or earlier during the intended higher intensity photo period.

Your plants do not need more than 5-7 hours of light per day.

Algae will often thrive if provided long hours of variable light intensity,  especially if the plants aren't competing through many of these hours.

2) Issues with a multi hour low light period after your photo period.
Your plants have already had there fill of lights and nutrients for the day and will close.  This leaves this time for the algae to thrive, which it is perfectly happy to do in varying light over long hours.


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## REDSTEVEO (19 Jun 2020)

jaypeecee said:


> Hi Folks,
> 
> I have to chuckle at a lighting fixture with a _pink_ option. It's high time that aquarium lighting manufacturers got serious about their products. I'm considering one of the offerings from this manufacturer for my tank:
> 
> ...


Errr...it more a red than a pink to be fair


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## REDSTEVEO (19 Jun 2020)

Nick72 said:


> @REDSTEVEO
> 
> There is nothing wrong with the light coming on at 12:30 or even 16:30, if the aquarium is in reasonably dark conditions during lights off.
> 
> ...



That's very informative and interesting thank you. My tank is against a wall halfway between the living room and dining room and although there are windows at either end that tank receives no direct sunlight. 

So I suppose it may be possible to delay the start of the lighting period. The only other issue I suppose is timing the feeding of the fish, but that could be worked around.

I am having a dig through the cupboards to root out all my dry powders to mix up a batch if E.I. Solution as per Ceg's guidance from previous experience.

On the question of injected CO2, as said previously I have got a cupboard full of every kind of diffuser under the sun. I am thinking of trying the JBL Taiphoon trickle diffuser, set at a really low level to begin with.AAny thoughts on that?

Thanks,

Steve


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## REDSTEVEO (19 Jun 2020)

Nick72 said:


> Hi @REDSTEVEO
> 
> I just setup the Auto settings and leave the light on Auto 24/7.
> 
> ...



Hi Nick, I am looking at the Rotala Butterfly website and the calculator

I am impressed with the calculator functions, but I notice it only allows you to calculate one dry powder at a time, plus it's been a while since I used EI so difficult to enter all the information accurately


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## LondonDragon (19 Jun 2020)

REDSTEVEO said:


> I am looking at the Rotala Butterfly website and the calculator



It's now builtin to the forum  https://www.ukaps.org/forum/pages/nutrient-calculator/

Have a look here how I calculated it:  https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/aquascaper-900-first-planted-in-a-long-time.61268/post-603457

You can just input the values you taken from the calculator and you can tweak the solution!


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## REDSTEVEO (19 Jun 2020)

@Nick72 using the calculator on Rotala Butterfly I have entered the vessel size, the dosing amount for each ingredient of NPK and for TMC Trace elements and taken a screenshot of the results.

Grateful if you could look at these to see if you think they are correct before I mix up a solution.

Thanks for taking the time.


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## Nick72 (19 Jun 2020)

Hi Steve,

While I like CO2 injection I would also be concerned about your juvenile Discus.

I don't know much about them apart from they are sensitive fish, and being juvenile as well?

Hopefully someone here who keeps them can chime in.

Your tank is pretty big, so keeping consistent and good levels of CO2 will be a challenge.

I suspect you would have most luck with inline diffusers or a reactor.

What are you currently using for filtration?
What return do you filters have? Ie. Standard nozzles / spray bar / lily pipe?

As for Rotala Butterfly, yes it's one at a time.

I would suggest you plan to make the following  3 macro bottles.  Each 1 litre and dose 40ml 3 times a week.

KN03
KH2PO4
K2SO4 

Also make a 1 litre micro bottle with CSM+B  including Fe (Iron) 

Rotala Butterfly will give you all the measurements if you put in the size of your tank, select DIY, enter the salt, select "a solution" then put 1000ml for container size, and 40ml for dose size.

Rotala Butterfly will then tell you how much to put into your 1 litre bottle.  It will say dose 2-4 times a week.  So dose three times a week.

I would then add 5 teaspoons of Epsom Salts into your tank twice a week.  Premix this in a big cup of tank water before adding.

Most folks put all the macros into on bottle, but I've found it invaluable to keep them separate so I can adjust my dosing over time.

I'm sure once I've got it really nailed down I might start mixing the macros.


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## Nick72 (19 Jun 2020)

REDSTEVEO said:


> @Nick72 using the calculator on Rotala Butterfly I have entered the vessel size, the dosing amount for each ingredient of NPK and for TMC Trace elements and taken a screenshot of the results.
> 
> Grateful if you could look at these to see if you think they are correct before I mix up a solution.
> 
> Thanks for taking the time.View attachment 150620View attachment 150622View attachment 150622View attachment 150624View attachment 150625



Nothing wrong with what you have done here Steve.

It is important to keep the micros in a separate bottle from the macros.

Ideally you would dose macro, micro, macro, micro, macro, micro, rest, water change, repeat.

I suggested 40ml in a 1 litre bottle because your tank is exactly twice the size of mine and I do 20ml doses in 500ml bottles.

With 100ml doses you will be mixing fresh bottles pretty regularly.

If you drop the dose size down too far you get issues with solubility and also mold through keeping it bottled too long - I think you would find 40ml and 1 litre to be a good compromise.


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## REDSTEVEO (19 Jun 2020)

Nick72 said:


> Nothing wrong with what you have done here Steve.
> 
> It is important to keep the micros in a separate bottle from the macros.
> 
> ...


Thanks Nick, I have made up the solutions, all the macros in one bottle and the micro in a separate bottle. But for the macros I used the 1000 bottle size and a 100ml dose rate

But I suppose I could just drop the dose to 40ml, would that work, or is the concentration now too high?

I found with the quantities of dry powders at the 100ml dose ratio, not all the powders dissolve completely. I suppose I could reduce the concentration by tipping out 500mls into a separate bottle then top up with 500mls of water,  which should reduce the concentration by 50%.

How does that sound?

Funny how we started on lighting settings and morphed across to EI Dosages and dry powder mixes


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## Nick72 (19 Jun 2020)

Hi Steve,

The doses recommended by Rotala Butterfly should easily dissolve in 1 litre bottles if you selected 100ml doses.

That's only 10 doses per litre.

You might have to swirl the bottles around a bit with the lids on to make it happen though.

If you have made EI levels in those 1 litre bottles and are not planning to install CO2 injection, then I would recommend you only dose 40ml (40%) of macros.

I would then dose 50ml (50%) of micros.

Unfortunately I think this will still be a little too much N, but better that than not enough P.

(Again this might be a concern for your juvenile Discus)

This is why I keep separate bottles.


If you start using CO2 injection, then I would put the full 100ml per dose.

I wouldn't start messing around with the quantities currently in the bottle - it's important that the ppm stay in balance and that you understand what you are dosing.


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## LondonDragon (19 Jun 2020)

Nick72 said:


> Unfortunately I think this will still be a little too much N, but better that than not enough P.


You can always use K2SO4 rather than KNO3 to increase the Potassium and not dose too much Nitrate!


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## Nick72 (19 Jun 2020)

LondonDragon said:


> You can always use K2SO4 rather than KNO3 to increase the Potassium and not dose too much Nitrate!




Yes, but not one you have mixed all your macros into the same bottle.

He could stop using the macros bottle and dry dose K2SO4 and KH2PO4, but then why make the macros bottle in the first place.


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## Melv85 (19 Jun 2020)

Evening guys. 

Thanks @REDSTEVEO, 
And @Nick72 . 

I did start a tread about it a little while ago, 
https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/fluval-plant-3-0-for-high-tech.61339/
I don’t want to take over REDSTEVEO’s post.

A lot of interesting info here. 
As for my tank it’s 24 long, 18 front to back and 12 high. 

The lights the 24inch plant 3.0, think it’s 32w. 
I’ve got it raised about 5-6 inches above the tank, that’s more for the spread then anything else, otherwise it left dark spots at the front and back. 

The tanks been running about 6weeks and is full of plants. 

I don’t know if I’d say I’m confident of any of it nowadays, if I’m honest, it’s been a very long time since playing with this stuff lol 
Any help, thoughts greatly appreciated 
Cheers guys 👍🏼


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## REDSTEVEO (20 Jun 2020)

Melv85 said:


> Evening guys.
> 
> Thanks @REDSTEVEO,
> And @Nick72 .
> ...


No problem @Melv85 

As long as we get the information in the end. Thank you to everyone who has contributed so far. I'm re-learning stuff I used to do before.


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## REDSTEVEO (20 Jun 2020)

Melv85 said:


> Evening guys.
> 
> Thanks @REDSTEVEO,
> And @Nick72 .
> ...



Sounds like you have got the correct light for the tank size you describe. Now it is just a question of getting the settings to the optimum level for your tank. But I agree with Nick, CO2 and fertilisation with the correct nutrients will be the key to getting things right.

I have tried every type of CO2 Diffuser known to us, Inhave got a box full of them in the garage. Not happy with any of them in the end, so still looking for an alternative.

Currently looking at the Columbo 3 in 1 with bubble counter, check valve and diffuser in one unit.


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## jaypeecee (20 Jun 2020)

REDSTEVEO said:


> I have tried every type of CO2 Diffuser known to us, Inhave got a box full of them in the garage. Not happy with any of them in the end, so still looking for an alternative.



Hi @REDSTEVEO 

Are you able to summarize what problems you have had with the diffusers? If you've tried a lot of different types/manufacturers, it tends to suggest that your chances of finding a better alternative are rapidly diminishing. So, trying to think laterally, how could we improve the ones you've already tried?

JPC


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## Melv85 (20 Jun 2020)

Morning, 



REDSTEVEO said:


> No problem @Melv85
> 
> As long as we get the information in the end. Thank you to everyone who has contributed so far. I'm re-learning stuff I used to do before.


That’s it mate, we’re all aiming for the same goal lol.


I’m using the same ei ferts I used years ago from apf, does it go out of date does anyone know? 
It use to work fine back then.
I’m dosing more now tho, as growth seamed slow, and algae started to form. 

I’m running a massive filter Eheim pro3 (2078)
But got it turned down just enough so as to not disturb the substrate. 

I actually turned the light up abit a week or so ago, thinking maybe there wasn’t enough to promote healthy growth. 
It just doesn’t seam as bright as the old t5’s I use to run.

I’ve had loads over the years too. 
I started with Nothing but a power head and diy Co2 years ago.
I use the inline co2art one now. 
I used the old up inline one before that, I’ve always liked this sort if you don’t mind the Misty look


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## REDSTEVEO (20 Jun 2020)

jaypeecee said:


> Hi @REDSTEVEO
> 
> Are you able to summarize what problems you have had with the diffusers? If you've tried a lot of different types/manufacturers, it tends to suggest that your chances of finding a better alternative are rapidly diminishing. So, trying to think laterally, how could we improve the ones you've already tried?
> 
> JPC



I have bought so many CO2 Diffusers from so many different suppliers over a period of about 10 years or so when they were first introduced.

I have tried the JBL and the UP inline versions, Glass ADA Diffusers from The Green Machine, Plastic, Ceramic Discs, JBL Pro Flora Taifun, Dupla, Aqua Medic, products from Hong King and China.

Each one has their own defects or disadvantages. The inline ones are a pain due to the fact that they reduce return flow from the filter, they get clogged easily, they have to be removed from the filter pipes to be cleaned or replaced, which means switching off the filter, clamping or shutting off the pipes to avoid the back siphon.

The in tank glass or plastic diffusers with the ceramic discs work for a short time, but gradually decrease in efficiency, the bubbles get larger and less and less.

The turbo types are unreliable, giving inconsistent results. The Dupla Reactor S and the Dupla CO2  Reactor 500 are the best, but these both need an independent water supply pumped via a separate powerhead in the tank, or a line coming off the return pipe from the filter. Flow control through either if these is tricky unless you are prepared to fit taps to adjust flow rates etc.
The  bottom line is that none of them are perfect, and I'm not convinced there is a simple solution.

There is an Eheim Diffuser that you can attach to the end of the return pipe to the tank. It has a connection to attach an airline onto it so that as the water is forced through the diffuser it draws air in with it to oxygenate the water. I suppose you could try attaching the CO2 line to the diffuser so that it pulls the CO2 through it instead if oxygen.

The downside if the Eheim Diffuser is that due to the narrow hole on the outlet, the water pressure is increased into a powerful jet, which creates a lot of water flow around the tank. Some might say that is a good thing, but I'm not convinced about the 'flow' argument.

Some if the best planted tanks I have seen in Germany and Holland the water us virtually still.

Until someone produces a disc that does not clog up, there is no real solution.


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## REDSTEVEO (20 Jun 2020)

Pictures


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## jaypeecee (20 Jun 2020)

Hi @REDSTEVEO 

Although greatly overpriced, I've had good results from the _Bazooka_ ceramic rod diffusers. I have one that has been used for three or four years and is still effective, producing a fine mist of bubbles. Like so many aquarium products, it is let down by substandard suckers that attach it to the aquarium glass. Every now and then, I soak it in a mild acid such as lemon juice or vinegar. The GH of my tank water is around 10dGH and KH is 4 - 6dKH. So, any chalky deposit on the ceramic rod is minimal anyway.

JPC


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## LondonDragon (20 Jun 2020)

I find my ADA Beetle that I am using for the first time great, but at a price :/

Also these have great reviews, I have one to test when my diffusor is due a clean:

https://www.aquariumgardens.co.uk/twinstar-diffusor-co2---medium-2315-p.asp

There are 3 sizes!


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## REDSTEVEO (20 Jun 2020)

LondonDragon said:


> I find my ADA Beetle that I am using for the first time great, but at a price :/
> 
> Also these have great reviews, I have one to test when my diffusor is due a clean:
> 
> ...


I watched the video in the link. Looks good at first glance, but there must be at least 120 bubbles per minute going through that drop checker. My suspicion is that it needs that much to create enough pressure for the CO2 to break through the disc. Very similar to the problems with the UP Inline and JBL Inline diffusers.

I would imagine that with a reduction in pressure this diffuser won't work as efficiently as it appears to do in the video. Or at a reduced bubble count, the pressure will build up slowly inside the diffuser then expend itself quickly in ine blast causing instabilities in CO2 levels in the tank.

I hope I'm wrong but would like to hear the results once tested.


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## LondonDragon (20 Jun 2020)

REDSTEVEO said:


> I watched the video in the link. Looks good at first glance, but there must be at least 120 bubbles per minute going through that drop checker.


When I set mine up I will let you know, but that could be just for display purposes as the guy just ramps up the CO2 very hard to show what it can do!


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## jaypeecee (20 Jun 2020)

Hi @LondonDragon / Paulo


LondonDragon said:


> Also these have great reviews, I have one to test when my diffusor is due a clean:
> 
> https://www.aquariumgardens.co.uk/twinstar-diffusor-co2---medium-2315-p.asp



Pore size on the above looks larger than those on the _Bazooka_, so that's likely to mean larger bubbles. And this, in turn, is likely to result in less efficient CO2 diffusion. Aesthetically, it may not look as good either as the bubbles swirling around the tank may be more visible. Those are my thoughts but you may well prove me wrong.

JPC


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## jaypeecee (20 Jun 2020)

REDSTEVEO said:


> I watched the video in the link. Looks good at first glance, but there must be at least 120 bubbles per minute going through that drop checker. My suspicion is that it needs that much to create enough pressure for the CO2 to break through the disc. Very similar to the problems with the UP Inline and JBL Inline diffusers.



Hi @REDSTEVEO

It's not necessary to run the CO2 at 120 bubbles per minute. Far from it. I was running mine as low as 18 bubbles per minute (bpm). This is at a working pressure* of 2.0 bar. It's the pressure that's key here, not the bubble rate. Once the pressure is set, then use the needle valve to get the desired bpm. It is true that the ceramic/porous diffusers do present resistance to the flow of CO2 but, once a critical pressure is reached, then the CO2 flows. I have fitted a pressure gauge on the CO2 line that goes to the diffuser. Between the pressure gauge and the diffuser, I have a non-return valve to prevent any water backflowing into the pressure gauge itself. So, when the CO2 solenoid switches ON, the additional gauge immediately shows that the CO2 pressure to the diffuser is starting to build up. And, I can predict within a minute when the CO2 will start to flow into the tank. This is where a diagram would help. So, if you're interested and when I get a moment, I'll draw a sketch, which might make things clearer.

*As opposed to the actual cylinder pressure

JPC


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## REDSTEVEO (28 Jun 2020)

I have now been dosing fertilisers using EI for a week and reduced the lighting period to 7 hours, and adjusted the lighting settings on the Fluval Plant 3.0 as advised. There is green and brown algae present on leaves of the plants, so I decided to start introducing CO2 again to see if things improve.

I bought a new JBL Pro Flora Taufun CO2 Diffuser and fitted it yesterday. It is supposed to take 48 hours for it to start working effectively or at optimum level.

The first thing I have noticed is that in order to get any CO2 travelling through the reactor, I have had to crank up the bubble rate through the bubble counter to a rate so high and fast I can't even count the bubbles.

In the past if I had turned up the rate to this level using an in tank glass diffuser with a ceramic disc, the tank would have overdosed in CO2 within an hour. So not sure if this is going to be successful or not.

Update to follow.


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## hypnogogia (28 Jun 2020)

REDSTEVEO said:


> The first thing I have noticed is that in order to get any CO2 travelling through the reactor, I have had to crank up the bubble rate through the bubble counter to a rate so high and fast I can't even count the bubbles.


You should just have single bubbles slowly travelling up the spiral inside the Taifun reactor at pretty much the same rate as your bubble counter. Having said that, I’d don’t have much luck with mine as it’s ugly and just another piece of kit that needs to be cleaned, and is not easy to clean.


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## REDSTEVEO (28 Jun 2020)

hypnogogia said:


> You should just have single bubbles slowly travelling up the spiral inside the Taifun reactor at pretty much the same rate as your bubble counter. Having said that, I’d don’t have much luck with mine as it’s ugly and just another piece of kit that needs to be cleaned, and is not easy to clean.


Agreed so far. It would be great to have the bubble counter set to 60 bubbles per minute and see the same travelling up the reactor. But if I lower the rate to something I can actually count, nothing travels up the Reactor at all. 

I have done checks for leaks on all the attachments and not found any, so I have no idea where all the CO2 is going if it's not getting to the Reactor. Very frustrating indeed.


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## REDSTEVEO (28 Jun 2020)

hypnogogia said:


> You should just have single bubbles slowly travelling up the spiral inside the Taifun reactor at pretty much the same rate as your bubble counter. Having said that, I’d don’t have much luck with mine as it’s ugly and just another piece of kit that needs to be cleaned, and is not easy to clean.


I think I have solved the mystery. The non return valve I was using was an extreme high pressure type, a large black one. I've swapped it out with another one with less resistance, and now I've got the same amount of bubbles in bubble counter and the reactor.

If I had continued with the other one the CO2 Bottle would be empty in 24 hours.

Now, I'll just wait and see. Not sure whether to leave it on for 24/7 or on a timer to come on an hour before lights on and off an hour before lights out.


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## hypnogogia (28 Jun 2020)

REDSTEVEO said:


> I think I have solved the mystery.


Glad you’ve got,it sorted.


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