# Newbie questions pt. 69



## ButtNekkid (12 Apr 2016)

Hi,

1. Is there any disadvantage when adding almond leaves? I have approx. 5 big leaves in a 240 L tank. Can one          "overdose" these leaves? My 2 otto´s seem to love them! Could I cover the whole substrate?
    Does anyone know where to get them cheaper? Maybe a good ebay seller?

2. I have dry salt bag that contains:

1 part KNO3
1 part K2SO4
1 part MgSO4
1 part CSM+B

How much should i add weekly in to the tank if I want to dose with a teaspoon. It´s low tech with no added CO2 and 2 x 38w T8´s. I used to make a solution but my dispenser bottle has developed some dark "mulm" in the bottom and I don´t know if it´s safe to use anymore.





3. Do ferts spread around the tank in a same way as, for example, gaseous CO2?


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## ian_m (12 Apr 2016)

ButtNekkid said:


> How much should i add weekly in to the tank if I want to dose with a teaspoon. It´s low tech with no added CO2 and 2 x 38w T8´s. I used to make a solution but my dispenser bottle has developed some dark "mulm" in the bottom and I don´t know if it´s safe to use anymore.


Looks like you CSM+B has become unchelated and precipitated out. Wont be harmful to fish but as it is insoluble it wont help the plants either.

Normally some sort of acidifying agent, usually ascorbic acid, is added to keep the solution acidic which helps keep the CSM+B chelated and in solution.

Maybe this mixture is meant to be added dry ?

There is also no phosphate in your mixture, is ingredient 2 actually potassium phosphate ? (a typo ?).


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## ButtNekkid (12 Apr 2016)

ian_m said:


> Looks like you CSM+B has become unchelated and precipitated out. Wont be harmful to fish but as it is insoluble it wont help the plants either.
> 
> Normally some sort of acidifying agent, usually ascorbic acid, is added to keep the solution acidic which helps keep the CSM+B chelated and in solution.
> 
> ...



Hi,

It´s this one: http://www.aquariumfertilizer.com/i...rnEdit=5&Returnitemname=&ReturnShowItemStart= It is sold optionally with a dispenser bottle
I have EasyLife phosphate that I add randomly. Mainly when I spot GSA.

Also, what does unchelated and precipitated out mean. I don´t understand english that well XD


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## dw1305 (13 Apr 2016)

Hi all,





ButtNekkid said:


> I have approx. 5 big leaves in a 240 L tank. Can one "overdose" these leaves? My 2 otto´s seem to love them! Could I cover the whole substrate?


You can add more leaves. You don't need to buy IAL (_Terminalia catappa)_ leaves, you can use Oak (_Quercus_ spp) leaves instead.

Have a look at <"live tips to save Cory eggs"> and <"_Parotocinclus_ sp. 3">.

cheers Darrel


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## ian_m (13 Apr 2016)

ButtNekkid said:


> Also, what does unchelated and precipitated out mean. I don´t understand english that well XD


The iron in CSM+B is provided in the form iron chelate which makes the iron compound soluble in water and thus available for plants to use. CSM+B is iron 7% EDTA chelate.

Below is a chart indicating at which pH values the chelate should be kept at. Outside these areas the iron will become unchelated and will usually precipitate out and become unavailable for plants to use.



 

Tap water can be alkaline due to hardness and pH will be greater than 7, so if you mix CSM+B with this the iron will precipitate out, as you have seen.

The website you got your ferts from talk about adding 3-5ml apple cider to the mix to make it acid, greater than pH 7, to stop it precipitating out. Ascorbic acid is usually used.

However next issue is you will have now produced an excellent mould growing solution, so either use quickly before it goes mouldy, or add preservative in form of potassium sorbate.

See here.
http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/allinone.htm


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## zozo (13 Apr 2016)

ButtNekkid said:


> Is there any disadvantage when adding almond leaves?



No there are non, tho if many are added it might stain the water.. Personal taste if the is a disadvantage.. But for the rest the whole tank only benefits from them. ths over shadows the minor (disadvantage of) staining..There is a myth going around on the net by some sellers saying they lower PH but they do not realy, you would need to many of them to considerably lower the PH. I once tried the recomended 10 per 100 liter, PH didn't drop a percent.

Dried sedge also seems to be very good, walnut and beech also can be used.. Alder cones are also very often recomended.


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## ButtNekkid (14 Apr 2016)

Hi all,

Thanks for all the great answers. God, I love this site!

Does anyone have an idea about the dosing if I want to use teaspoon as a measure? Do I just sprinkle it in the tank or does it have to be premixed before adding it in?

Also, any ideas on question 3?

*Darrel*,

I introduced some *Pistia* into the tank and I´m going to put *Limnobium laevigatum *in as well. I thought I´d give that duckweed index thingie a try.
Which is more sensitive to nutrient defincies? Which plant should I be monitoring more?


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## dw1305 (15 Apr 2016)

Hi all,





ButtNekkid said:


> 3. Do ferts spread around the tank in a same way as, for example, gaseous CO2?


Yes they do.





ButtNekkid said:


> Which is more sensitive to nutrient defincies? Which plant should I be monitoring more?


I like _Limnobium, _it is nice green colour, grows in acid water with low nutrients etc, easy to control and you can give it away/sell it fairly easily.

Plant growth (and chlorophyll content) and nitrogen availability are usually pretty closely correlated  



 

cheers Darrel


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