# Roma 240 Lighting



## Simps100 (8 Aug 2016)

Hi all

Wondering what my best bet is for thee lighting in a planted tank and my Fluval Roma 240.

Currently we have JML Aqua Basis plus and JML Manado for our substrate.

We have the standard hood / lights which are:

Fluval GLO lighting unit, 
One Power-Glo Fluorescent Aquarium Tube 40W 106.68cm (42in) T8
One Aqua-Glo Fluorescent Aquarium Tube 40W 106.68cm (42in) T8

Which i understand may not be the best for a planted tank - particularly if im looking at carpeting plants which I like the idea of doing.

Im just wondering what my best option would be - Ive seen guides to replace the T8's with T5's or is LED lighting the way to go?

Thanks

Marc


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## darrensp (8 Aug 2016)

Are you running co2 at all?

What plants do you have


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## Simps100 (8 Aug 2016)

We have this co2 system with a sodastream bottle: http://www.co2supermarket.co.uk/dual-stage-co2-system-advanced-p485.html

No plants as of yet - getting all the bits together to do it at the weekend - we are hoping to grow something which will carpet quite well and am open to suggestions!

https://www.iquaticsonline.co.uk/universal-t5-light-bar.html Have been looking at these guys who I found in a previous post - can anyone recommend?


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## Manisha (8 Aug 2016)

Hi, this is a good article with regard to choosing bulbs - it discusses t5s but is applicable to t8s too.
http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/cheap-ho-t5-fluorescent-tubes-update-with-photos.555/

I've the same tank, am running low tech with existing t8 ballast. I use arcadia, one freshwater lamp (1050mm & 38W) & one tropical lamp (1050mm & 38W)


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## Simps100 (9 Aug 2016)

Manisha said:


> Hi, this is a good article with regard to choosing bulbs - it discusses t5s but is applicable to t8s too.
> http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/cheap-ho-t5-fluorescent-tubes-update-with-photos.555/
> 
> I've the same tank, am running low tech with existing t8 ballast. I use arcadia, one freshwater lamp (1050mm & 38W) & one tropical lamp (1050mm & 38W)
> View attachment 86585



Looks really great!

Am really not sure which is going to be the best direction for me to go at the moment - I guess the options i have are:

1. Replace the T8 tubes with new T8 tubes
2. Replace the hood with one which use t5 tubes - then do i go for a 2 tube or 4 tube setup?

We dont plan on planting anything too extreme - would like to be able to carpet something across the tank and am open to suggestions to other ideas (This is my first attempt at anything other than throwing in a few plants!)


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## Manisha (9 Aug 2016)

Hiya, my 'foreground plant atm is echinodorus quadricostatus. This is a lot larger than most choices but suitable with lower t8 bulbs.  Another smaller alternative to this would be echinodorus tenells.  Both these spread via runners so should achieve  more dense growth over time & have the advantage of not being super snail growth in a low tech environment ☺ I've found this with other larger echinodorus species too! If you wanted a smaller carpet I originally had Eleocharis Acicularis  (dwarf hairgrass) but personally didn't like the appearance & growth was a bit slower but it didn't fail at least! Although I've not tried it, many other members grow 'Monte Carlos' as a successful carpet in low tech too, so you've a few options ☺

If you choose to go low tech - although florescent bulbs last a long time - they have an optimal length of about 9-12 months for producing light useful to plant growth. So I'd definately recommend changing the existing bulbs if they're close to this length of time & I use reflectors as they increase efficiency of the light output.

These are the best options in my opinion for this tank without changing anything & running low tech, however if you hope to run co2 then I think the existing may fall short of some of the more demanding plants!

From what I understand the watt per gallon is a way of measuring light in a planted tank based on older t8 (we happen to have!) But due to changes to t5 and increase in efficency or the use of led, the watt per gallon isnt able to be measured in the same way & the most effective way of measuring light is par. Unfortunately most hobbyists don't have access to a par metre so there's definately a grey area in my opinion! This article discusses it better than I can explain! http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/lighting-in-the-planted-aquarium.2271/ So I think there's a fair amount of trial & error unless someone else has used a particular light. I guess the most suitable is a light fixture that has a dimmable option or with the t5 system you've considered you have the option of using two or four bulbs. T5s still require changing every 9-12 months so a good led may be expensive initially but will not have parts that require replaced regularly! Hope this is a bit of help - not much as I'm a noobs too!


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## dw1305 (10 Aug 2016)

Hi all, 





Manisha said:


> T5s still require changing every 9-12 months


You are fine to keep them until they fail, they are electronically ballasted and have a tri-phosphor coating. The technical term is <"lamp lumen depreciation">.


 


When fluorescent tubes were the old T12 size they were halophosphate coated and magnetically ballasted and did need changing more frequently. 

T8 tubes could be either magnetic or electronically ballasted, but they are likely to be electronically ballasted and the same applies as for T5. If you can't see the control gear if the light flashes on and off when the tube is failing the ballast is magnetic. 

cheers Darrel


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## ian_m (10 Aug 2016)

Manisha said:


> T5s still require changing every 9-12 months


Nope.

In link below are two T5 tubes one 6 months old the other 30months old. Spot the difference. 

http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/how-often-do-you-change-your-lighting-tubes.38094/#post-413372


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## Manisha (10 Aug 2016)

dw1305 said:


> Hi all, You are fine to keep them until they fail, they are electronically ballasted and have a tri-phosphor coating. The technical term is <"lamp lumen depreciation">.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Thanks, I thought the 'reduced lifetime' was directly related to using fluorescents as oppose to use of magnetic ballast (apologies simps100!)

I do think my older fluval roma tank (2010 approx) may have a magnetic ballast as there is the bulb flashes on (and think I remember the flicker with my last batch of bulbs).

So, regardless of whether a fluorescent bulb is halophosphate or tri-phosphate coated is it the mechanism by which the magnetic ballast starts that causes the output to deteriorate?



ian_m said:


> Nope.
> 
> In link below are two T5 tubes one 6 months old the other 30months old. Spot the difference.
> 
> http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/how-often-do-you-change-your-lighting-tubes.38094/#post-413372



Very little difference, t5s in terms of output seem to be the better choice overall anyway (if you don't already have t8s!)


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## dw1305 (10 Aug 2016)

Hi all, 





Manisha said:


> So, regardless of whether a fluorescent bulb is halophosphate or tri-phosphate coated is it the mechanism by which the magnetic ballast starts that causes the output to deteriorate?


 I think it is mainly to do with control gear, but you will need <"@ian_m"> to give you the technical reason. 

I see that the link doesn't work in the other thread, but there is a good document on fluorescent lighting at <"Lamp Operation Basics....">.

cheers Darrel


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## ian_m (10 Aug 2016)

Manisha said:


> So, regardless of whether a fluorescent bulb is halophosphate or tri-phosphate coated is it the mechanism by which the magnetic ballast starts that causes the output to deteriorate?


To a certain extent yes. Modern electronic ballasts drive the tube at a higher frequency (eg 10KHz) than 50Hz mains, which has the effect of higher light output and longer tube life. The blackening and darkening of old tubes, especially at the ends, is due to the tubes heaters evaporating and depositing metal inside the tube due to running them on magnetic ballasts.

Longer tube life also happens nowadays, due to better tube phosphors that don't succumb to "wearing out", better tubes that don't leak away their mercury and argon, better control & starter gear as well as numerous small design changes that can extend tube life in to over 20,000 hours life.


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