# Green water !



## john arnold (19 Sep 2018)

Hello

240 l tank heavily planted amm 0, nitrire 0, nitrate 80 ppm!, git sone green spot algae herecand there not to worry but now the water is starting to turn green, inline co2 comes on hour befire lights and hour before they go out, lights on for 8 hours fluval plant 3.0 have good circulation as all plants swaying, dosing 20 ml a day of aquascaper complete from aquarium gardens, any ideas oh i do 50% water every week sometimes more pic below before hazy green started


----------



## john arnold (19 Sep 2018)

Tank is about 3 months old now


----------



## tiger15 (19 Sep 2018)

Get some live daphnia and put them in a fine net.  Place it near a filter outflow and the daphnia will consume and clear the green water.


----------



## john arnold (19 Sep 2018)

tiger15 said:


> Get some live daphnia and put them in a fine net.  Place it near a filter outflow and the daphnia will consume and clear the green water.


Yeah thanks i heard that, havnt seen amy for sale round here at all tho


----------



## tiger15 (19 Sep 2018)

Catch some in stagnant pond.


----------



## Siege (19 Sep 2018)

Your size tank you really want the co2 perhaps 4 hours before lights come on. Get the co2 at its max for when the lights come on.


----------



## john arnold (19 Sep 2018)

Siege said:


> Your size tank you really want the co2 perhaps 4 hours before lights come on. Get the co2 at its max for when the lights come on.


4 hrs jesus that sounds insane but i will pu5 it on earlier thanks


----------



## john arnold (19 Sep 2018)

tiger15 said:


> Catch some in stagnant pond.


Mmm thats sounds like a good idea


----------



## Siege (19 Sep 2018)

john arnold said:


> 4 hrs jesus that sounds insane but i will pu5 it on earlier thanks



I have my 200L tank co2 is on 4 hours before the lights come on. 100L 3 hours before.

Watch the drop checker, that is the crucial thing, if you are going for high co2 a nice lime green when the lights come on. Low co2 a warm green colour. Either way better to have it on earlier and turn the needle valve down.


----------



## john arnold (19 Sep 2018)

Siege said:


> I have my 200L tank co2 is on 4 hours before the lights come on. 100L 3 hours before.
> 
> Watch the drop checker, that is the crucial thing, if you are going for high co2 a nice lime green when the lights come on. Low co2 a warm green colour. Either way better to have it on earlier and turn the needle valve down.



Ok thanks for advice, ill change it, the main tank is only slight haze of green i was being bit alarmist, i cut down fertz from 20 to 15 ml fir a bit see hiw it goes, just got some nerite snails few days ago, wow where have they been all my life, doing great job of algae on rocks, hardly ever see the shrimp since i had ramz tho


----------



## john arnold (20 Sep 2018)

Scrub that last comment the water is defo greener now i read water changes dont get rid of it any ideas, i reduced ferts from 20 ml a day to 15.   .?


----------



## azawaza (20 Sep 2018)

Run a UV filter? That would sterilise the algae spores, me thinks.


----------



## john arnold (20 Sep 2018)

Jeees i got green spot algae, brush, slime and now greent water, all plants are swaying from circulation so flow good drop checker lime green, lights on for 8 hrs, tank about 5 months old , nitrates high due to fertz, 50% water change a week sometimex more wtf is going wrong!


----------



## Edvet (20 Sep 2018)

Ever did a pH profile?
With problems i would reduce lighting hours first.


----------



## john arnold (20 Sep 2018)

Im new to this you dont just mean the ph do you, what does profile involve ?


----------



## foxfish (20 Sep 2018)

It is quite simple but time consuming, you need to take a PH reading every hour during the C02 cycle.
So take a reading just before the C02 comes on and then every hour until the C02 supply is switched off.
This is easily done using a cheap PH pen (or an expensive one) the results will tell you (and us) an awful lot about how effective your C02 is working.


----------



## john arnold (20 Sep 2018)

Ok ill try Monday as wont be here till then unless i get no work tomorrow, blimey every hour


----------



## john arnold (22 Sep 2018)

Ha well the green is starting to go wirthout me changing anything, well on one day i did 5 ml less fertz but went straight back to full dose next day, now irs disappearing, i have learnt that fertilizers DO NOT CAUSE ALGAE, it may have been from a 75 % water change i did a few days before so im Only going to do 50% once a week now, cheers fir help people


----------



## john arnold (22 Sep 2018)

Oh its back again, how can it go then reappear? Jesus on a bike


----------



## alto (22 Sep 2018)

That is the magic of true “green water” which is caused by more of a photosynthesizing bacteria than an algae 

As long as the tint is minimal & not “pea soup”, life will pretty much carry on as per usual for tank inhabitants 

You can increase water changes for aesthetics but otherwise I’d leave most things as they are IF system is working for your plants & livestock 

Any mcrofiltration system (especially using diatomaceous earth) is effective at clearing the “cloud”
Eventually the GW will disappear just as it arrived (most common source is your tap water but I’ve had GW in only one tank despite using the same tap water etc for all tanks) 

You can also try water clarifiers (such as Seachem Clarify - read the fine print & dscussion forum commentary before using any clarifying agent) BUT these can dramatically affect livestock if water is soft, very soft ...
(I lost shrimp & fish within minutes being a naive (murdering) idiot ...at that time, there was no warning re soft water)

GW at the pea soup stage will limit oxygen availability for livestock AND if killed rapidly with any Claryfying type (floculating) agent will rapidly remove even more oxygen from aquarium water - perform multiple water changes first to remove most of the GW, before adding any floculating agent


----------



## john arnold (23 Sep 2018)

alto said:


> That is the magic of true “green water” which is caused by more of a photosynthesizing bacteria than an algae
> 
> As long as the tint is minimal & not “pea soup”, life will pretty much carry on as per usual for tank inhabitants
> 
> ...



Thanks for that good advice, yeah i have a uv sterilizer coming next week so guess just need to be patient as it is minimal just annoying as plants are really good


----------



## zozo (27 Sep 2018)

john arnold said:


> Yeah thanks i heard that, havnt seen amy for sale round here at all tho



Place a tub of water in the garden in a partialy shaded spot. Put in some leaflitter.. And wait..  Daphnia will eventualy appear, ussualy it doesn't take very long..
*Water fleas ‘mail’ their eggs from pond to pond..*


----------



## john arnold (1 Oct 2018)

zozo said:


> Place a tub of water in the garden in a partialy shaded spot. Put in some leaflitter.. And wait..  Daphnia will eventualy appear, ussualy it doesn't take very long..
> *Water fleas ‘mail’ their eggs from pond to pond..*


That is super cool info thanks, i have a big pot with water lilly in so ill use that, the uv has cleated up the green water so im happy now
Cheers


----------



## azawaza (1 Oct 2018)

azawaza said:


> Run a UV filter? That would sterilise the algae spores, me thinks.



Told ya UV could work


----------



## john arnold (2 Oct 2018)

azawaza said:


> Told ya UV could work


Yep cheers, took about 6 days and sweet as a nut now, happy chappy


----------

