# Nigel's Forest scape 128L



## Nigel95 (5 Jul 2017)

Got bored of my Iwagumi and wanted to do something with spiderwood. Decided to make my own forest.

*Have a look at my Youtube channel 
>> www.youtube.com/nigelaquascaping * *<<

Final video


My tank with black background in the room.




nigel aquascaping enchanted forest black background by Nigel Aquascaping, on Flickr


Recent pictures


detail shot forest scape by nigel aquascaping by Nigel H, on Flickr



forest 8 by Nigel Aquascaping, on Flickr


forest detail 128l nigel aquascaping by Nigel Aquascaping, on Flickr
*

Specs planted tank aquarium
*Tank*
80x40x40 cm / 31x15x15" opticwhite 8mm
34 gallon / 128 litre

*Lighting*
Aquatlantis easy led 742 but soon chihiros rgb 60

*Hardscape*
Lava rock
Spiderwood

*Substrate*
ADA Aqua Soil

*Shrimp*
50+ Red cherry shrimp
*
Fish*
20 green neon tetra

*Snails*
10 Clithon sp.

*Plants*
hydrocotyle tripartita
cryptocoryne parva
fissidens fontanus
fissidens mini
solenostoma tetragonum
Bucephalandra (soon before flooding)

*Co2*
Pressurized CO2 with a diffusor
Co2 checker edge (20 ppm)

*Heater*
Hydor eth 200  temperature 25 celcius

*Filter*
Eheim experience 350 (2426) with stainless steel lily pipes

*Background*
Frosted glass spray

*Day 1 Hardscape & DSM




*


*Yoghurt method moss dsm*


*Day 36



*

*Day 60*


forest scape 128l day 60 p3 by Nigel H, on Flickr

*Day 75


Day 95
More details


day 95 forest aquascape by nigel aquascaping by Nigel H, on Flickr

Day 115*




details growth by nigel by Nigel H, on Flickr

*Tank 80x40x40 cm - 34g / 128L*



image uploader

*
Yoghurt method experiment*
Got some fissidens fontanus from someone. Trying out the yoghurt blender method to attach mosses on my lava rocks.



image uploader
Waterlogging all pieces hopefully they will not dry completely out during my dry start to attach mosses to hardscape.



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To be more safe to avoid floating spiderwood  I zip tied spiderwood pieces to a piece of slate. These will be buried in the substrate. So far it seems promising as pieces sink immediately in a bucket.



image uploader

*Plants*
Planning to use the following plants:
- Fissidens fontanus and mini
- Solenostoma Tetragonum
- Cryptocoryne parva
- Hydrocotyle tripartita
- Some small bucephalandra


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## akwarybka (5 Jul 2017)

Looks super interesting!

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## SeanOB (5 Jul 2017)

wow, you put some serious effort into that hardscape mock-up, soil and all. Lookin good!


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## Mannic05 (7 Jul 2017)

Do you have an link to this yoghurt method? I'm very interested to see this.

That hardscape looks really promising, that forest look is already in there. Im looking forward to your next update.

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## Nigel95 (7 Jul 2017)

Mannic05 said:


> Do you have an link to this yoghurt method? I'm very interested to see this.
> 
> That hardscape looks really promising, that forest look is already in there. Im looking forward to your next update.
> 
> Verstuurd vanaf mijn Moto G (4) met Tapatalk



Thank you

Here is the link of the yoghurt mehod
http://bolbiaquarium.blogspot.nl/2016/02/attaching-moss-to-hardscape-yoghurt.html

Be aware if you have a strong flow it is possible that the mosses will blow off if you only dry start two weeks.


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## CooKieS (7 Jul 2017)

I'm curious about this method, seems awesome for delicate mosses like riccardia or fissidens. 

Nice hardscape too, I Wish to see more height in the Back though. Any sand path?


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## Daveslaney (7 Jul 2017)

I think if you removed the thicker branch from the front just left of the centre it would look better.
Open the view more.


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## Cor (7 Jul 2017)

Nigel95 said:


> Be aware if you have a strong flow it is possible that the mosses will blow off if you only dry start two weeks.


Thanks for this one


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## Nigel95 (7 Jul 2017)

CooKieS said:


> I'm curious about this method, seems awesome for delicate mosses like riccardia or fissidens.
> 
> Nice hardscape too, I Wish to see more height in the Back though. Any sand path?



Yeah great for plants like riccardia and fissidens. Other mosses are "better" with glue or thread. 

Thanks. I could add more height in the back got plenty of soil from my Iwagumi This preview scape has 3,5cm in the front. 9 left/right back and 6 in the center. Not sure what will be the "perfect" height with lava rock and fissidens on top of that.  No plan for sand path it will be hard to clean through all the "roots". 


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## Nigel95 (7 Jul 2017)

Daveslaney said:


> I think if you removed the thicker branch from the front just left of the centre it would look better.
> Open the view more.



True but the big tree helps to set up the path on the right focal point. 


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## BBogdan (10 Jul 2017)

Really nice hardscape Nigel !  , I look forward to see how this will take shape.


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## Silviu Man (10 Jul 2017)

Hi,
Very nice plan! What will be the focal point?


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## Nigel95 (10 Jul 2017)

Silviu Man said:


> Hi,
> Very nice plan! What will be the focal point?



Thanks, the black lines on the back of the cardboard are the focal point lines. 

The path on the right will be the 'focal point'. The big tree on the left is slightly next to the left focal point something like the golden ratio spiral. Not sure if it will be to busy as it is only a 80cm tank. Someone told me to do 2 focal points when the tank is >90 cm.


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## Nigel95 (12 Jul 2017)

Rough sketch of the planting. Critique please 

WM = weeping moss
CP = cryptocoryne parva
FF / RC =  fissidens fontanus / riccardia chamedry folia

Some anubias petite and bucephalandra mini needle leaf random in the scape. Should I put them in crevices or glue them?

The 'path' isn't really planted because if I do all the roots will become hidden by plants.

Maybe I will put some trees more diagonal to prevent the scape from being to static,

Planning to raise the substrate more at the back as I have enough soil from my Iwagumi to create more depth. Something like 4 cm front, left back 13 cm, center 8 cm and right back 10 cm.




free image hosting


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## Nigel95 (27 Jul 2017)

Ordered a chihiros rgb. Hopefully I will like the 8000k cold view. 

New plant list due low par with just 1 light unit (~36 par.)
So I skipped the riccardia chamedryfolia as it requires at least 50 par. 

Decided to add a little bit of
hydrocotyle tripartita. Riccardia chamedryfolia  will be replaced with solenostoma tetragonum. 

Plant list
hydrocotyle tripartita
Crypt parva 
Weeping moss 
solenostoma tetragonum
Fissidens mini and fontanus
Bucephalandra kedagang mini. 



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## Nigel95 (31 Jul 2017)

Hardscape so far in tank. Still need to glue the roots together.




Tested some lava rocks in water that has been in dsm for four weeks and the amano shrimps are pulling everything off. The moss was applied with the yoghurt method. So I guess I can't have amano shrimp at the start in the tank. What would be a good algae eaters that will not blow the delicate moss off? Maybe RCS? Not sure if they will keep algae under control.


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## Nigel95 (2 Aug 2017)

More mosses, plants and stuff to continue the scape 

Damn those mosses are expensive for what you get! 






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## Nigel95 (2 Aug 2017)

The tank is set up! Now I have to wait like 4-6 weeks so the mosses will attach to the hardscape. Can't wait to fill it already!

Impression of the hardscape enjoy


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## Nigel95 (5 Aug 2017)

Mold problems on spiderwood. Even with some air opening and daily 10 mins  airing. Tips are welcome. 










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## Silviu Man (5 Aug 2017)

It is normal to experience moulding, in such situation. You can try to spray it with a solution of salicylic acid (you can use aspirin). 
I remember I saw somewhere a similar isue that has been solved this way. Moulds are senzitive to soft acids, mostly to volatile acids
like acetic, propionic and formic acids.  The best would be propionic acid but I cannot say from where you can get it. Anyway, take
care of the plants if you choose to use acids. There are also anti-mould products, that contain such active substances, in buffered form.
Maybe if you give a search, you can find some. I remember I used some time ago a product from Bison. Maybe this can help.


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## Nigel95 (5 Aug 2017)

Silviu Man said:


> It is normal to experience moulding, in such situation. You can try to spray it with a solution of salicylic acid (you can use aspirin).
> I remember I saw somewhere a similar isue that has been solved this way. Moulds are senzitive to soft acids, mostly to volatile acids
> like acetic, propionic and formic acids.  The best would be propionic acid but I cannot say from where you can get it. Anyway, take
> care of the plants if you choose to use acids. There are also anti-mould products, that contain such active substances, in buffered form.
> Maybe if you give a search, you can find some. I remember I used some time ago a product from Bison. Maybe this can help.



Thanks for your reply. The question now is it worth to risk acid on the plants to solve the mold issue.  Do you know if the mold can do any harm as long it doesn't touch plants? Will it dissapear once the tank is flooded?


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## alto (5 Aug 2017)

I'd try physically removing most of the mold, then wipe the spider wood with a cloth well damped with whatever anti-mold solution you choose to use, you'll likely need to wipe frequently depending on the mold  - most can grow quickly

You can try various solutions as mentioned, I'd add peroxide to that list


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## Nigel95 (5 Aug 2017)

alto said:


> I'd try physically removing most of the mold, then wipe the spider wood with a cloth well damped with whatever anti-mold solution you choose to use, you'll likely need to wipe frequently depending on the mold  - most can grow quickly
> 
> You can try various solutions as mentioned, I'd add peroxide to that list



What Would happen if I don't touch it? Would it go away by itself or once flooded? 


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## Silviu Man (5 Aug 2017)

You don't know what kind of mold you have. Molds, almost all, produce mycotoxins, a metabolit of the mold that can stay on substrate or can be released. Most of mycotoxins are soluble in water so ... don't take any risk!


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## Nigel95 (5 Aug 2017)

Not the things that I would like to hear  .... 

It's pretty hard to remove at some places especially with a cloth. 

Let's hope for the best.


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## zozo (5 Aug 2017)

Just wipe it off where you can, ventilate the tank several hours a day. You can spray h2o2 (peroxide) to kill it off.. No idea for how long you are into the drystart and for how long you are planning to go. But this mold thing also is a very common terrarium issue.. Terrarium hobbyist also use peroxide, ventilation and Springtails.  Springtails are bugs eating mold, getting fat and provide food for the whatever mostly frogs in the terrarium after that. So do you still have weeks to go? Find a local terrarium shop selling Springtails as food, drop a box in the tank and let them feast on it.

Other chemicals than h2o2, can also kill other beneficial organism, so at your own risk, but not advisable to use.

*Ventilation is key* not to get to much of it in the first place. But still it also depends a lot on the type of wood used.. One is more susceptible to mold than others. So if it is that bad, than leave the tank open for a few days and let the wood dry.. The moss can take that and  comes back..

Usualy once the nutrients are used it goes away on its own.. Very well possible that it'll come back once the tank is flooded and than it'lll show as a white slimy substance on the wood. Also this will go away once the nutrients it lives off is used.


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## Nigel95 (5 Aug 2017)

zozo said:


> Just wipe it off where you can, ventilate the tank several hours a day. You can spray h2o2 (peroxide) to kill it off.. No idea for how long you are into the drystart and for how long you are planning to go. But this mold thing also is a very common terrarium issue.. Terrarium hobbyist also use peroxide, ventilation and Springtails.  Springtails are bugs eating mold, getting fat and provide food for the whatever mostly frogs in the terrarium after that. So do you still have weeks to go? Find a local terrarium shop selling Springtails as food, drop a box in the tank and let them feast on it.
> 
> Other chemicals than h2o2, can also kill other beneficial organism, so at your own risk, but not advisable to use.
> 
> ...



Dry start has been going for 2-3 days now. I can't wait to flood the tank but most of the new mosses won't be attached with the blender yoghurt method. My plan was to dry start for about 4 more weeks. But maybe it's better to take the risk and fill it after two weeks? Idk what's worse mosses floating in the tank or mold all over the place. 

The wood that is used is spiderwood. During the waterlogging in a tub it had those slimy coat on it. Isn't this just the emersed version of it? 

Those springtails look scary haha  I don't see myself removing them once the job is done tbh..

Thanks for all help guys. I am a little bit negative on all the solutions you guys give.

I thought the tank has to be really humid to survive the mosses and plants, that's why I went with airing only for 10 mins a day.


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## zozo (5 Aug 2017)

Nigel95 said:


> During the waterlogging in a tub it had those slimy coat on it. Isn't this just the emersed version of it?



No not realy t's a combination of biofiilm (bacteria) and mold.. Submersed it is mainly bacteria, emersed it is both, the bacteria function as a sticky nutricious substrate for the mold.  Something like that.



Nigel95 said:


> I can't wait to flood the tank





Nigel95 said:


> I am a little bit negative on all the solutions you guys give.



This goes away with the most difficult part of aquarium keeping, patience and experience..


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## dw1305 (6 Aug 2017)

Hi all,





Nigel95 said:


> Those springtails look scary haha  I don't see myself removing them once the job is done tbh..


You don't need to try and remove them before you flood the tank, they are really hydrophobic and will collect on the surface, where you can just net them off.

cheers Darrel


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## Nigel95 (8 Aug 2017)

Finallly it arrived! Trying out the chihiros rgb 60. Unfortunately I had to pay tax and some fees to the post company.  With the Aquatlantis easy led the plants in my iwagumi looked yellow and unhealthy. A simple desk lamp showed much better colors. Hard to say how the chihiros is because of no water in the tank. Heard it Can look pretty blue but we will see. 

The lamp is pretty high to avoid fire as the chihiros Can heat up a lot and I don't want it to close to the trash bag. I use a trash bag for dsm as wrap foil is impossible to use with all the spiderwood that sticks out of the tank.  When flooded the lamp will be as low as possible to get the maximum par out of this lamp. The par in this scape will be still pretty low around 36-50 depending of the location in the scape on substrate. 
















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## Deansie (18 Aug 2017)

Amazing! cant wait to see this progress. Roots are really impressive.


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## Nigel95 (1 Sep 2017)

Buces 

Kedagang mini







Mini catherina


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## SeanOB (1 Sep 2017)

you're killin me with the suspense! can't wait to see this all planted


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## Deansie (2 Sep 2017)

I'm intrigued to see how this light compares to the flat white in regards to plant growth.


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## Nigel95 (2 Sep 2017)

Lol after a month of dry start there is still a shrimp in there and it's a life! :O


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## Nigel95 (7 Sep 2017)

Tank is flooded and on vid . Can you spot the red cherries? Just a few in there got some green thread algae growing on moss already. Probably because my co2 atomizer is doing weird and not functioning good. Some hairy / slimy mold on the spiderwood but that will go away on it's own. In a few days I will be adding more red cherries and clithon sp (snails). Video would be better with some fish in it but will upload more in future.


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## Deansie (7 Sep 2017)

Really nice Nigel, can't wait to watch it grow in. It's got an eery feel to it.


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## Nigel95 (8 Sep 2017)

And now a picture of the tank. Got some feedback to add some stems in the back. What do you think?


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## Deansie (8 Sep 2017)

I'm no expert but you may lose your forest feel, but you could always remove them if you don't like them.


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## Eduard18 (9 Sep 2017)

stems in the back is a must in my opinion to reinforce the forest image and that eerie feeling I think you're looking for  check it out 

http://www.aqmagic.com/images/aquascaping2.jpg


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## Dantrasy (9 Sep 2017)

Eduard18 said:


> stems in the back is a must in my opinion to reinforce the forest image and that eerie feeling I think you're looking for  check it out
> 
> http://www.aqmagic.com/images/aquascaping2.jpg



Yep, considering adding stems at the back + some very thin dw 'trees'. 

It's looking impressive so far!


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## Nigel95 (9 Sep 2017)

Dantrasy said:


> Yep, considering adding stems at the back + some very thin dw 'trees'.
> 
> It's looking impressive so far!



Thank you 

I don't really like the look of the stems as shown in the picture.

When preparing the hardscape The really small pieces didn't really fit in the back somehow. But it Would be great to add some depth. Let's see if I can snipe some small pieces of 40 cm (not easy ).  




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## Paulo Soares (11 Sep 2017)

Hi Nigel, 

Great effort and study. Looking anxious to see what´s coming and develop. 

Good stuff my friend.

Best regards


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## Nigel95 (11 Sep 2017)

Paulo Soares said:


> Hi Nigel,
> 
> Great effort and study. Looking anxious to see what´s coming and develop.
> 
> ...



Thank you for your kind words Paulo


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## Tom43 (11 Sep 2017)

Watching this process with interest, and loving the scape so far...

Building on Silviu Man's comments, I also read that tea tree oil is a natural treatment to stop mould (sprayed on, diluted in water first).  I read this whilst researching natural ways to kill mould on training mats in a gym, so not sure how appropriate this would be for an aquarium project... but just thought I'd mention it.


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## Nigel95 (15 Sep 2017)

Thinking about a RO system and mix it with tap water something like 50/50. Tap water is relative hard here with:
kh 9
gh 13

Do you think it is worth all the effort and cost?


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## Paulo Soares (15 Sep 2017)

Evening,

For my own experience it isn´t worth. I used to have also those kind of values in my other adress and I also bought a RO system and tried 50/50, and 70/30 and 60/40 and haven´t notice any improvement on plants.
A lot of work but mainly and also sad a large waste of water and money for nothing.

So i stoped doing RO in my Water changes and put directly from from the Net and as time goes by one day i realise that the tank was having K3 and GH of 5. I believe it all leads to maturation of the tank.

 Start normally and in time you´ll see where it leads to.

By the way.. i only use Tropica Plant Growth and Tropica Soil (together). I believe they are the guilty ones for this decrease on KH and GH.

Big hug.


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## zozo (15 Sep 2017)

Nigel95 said:


> kh 9
> gh 13



Here too, i wouldn't worry a minute with these parameters.. Nothing wrong with it, it's more towards the average than it's in the high.
gh is not realy important there are people having over 3 times as much without issues. And kh 9 is ideal, in general kh between 8 and 12 is assumed perfect for a planted tank/pond.


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## Nigel95 (15 Sep 2017)

zozo said:


> Here too, i wouldn't worry a minute with these parameters.. Nothing wrong with it, it's more towards the average than it's in the high.
> gh is not realy important there are people having over 3 times as much without issues. And kh 9 is ideal, in general kh between 8 and 12 is assumed perfect for a planted tank/pond.



Oh really? Hmm… I thought the ideal kh was like 3-6. So plants can take easier nutrients. And Amano also kept low kh/tds in his tanks. Why did he do that? 

I also have a lot of fissidens and heard they grow better / look nicer with softer water. 

But it Would save me a lot of energy and money if it isn't worth it 

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## zozo (15 Sep 2017)

It all is very relative and you can have equal good results in a wide range of parameters.. Hunting the ideal and change what is supplied from the tap oftenly only results in more work, frustration to keep it stable, more confusement and in worst case scenario more failure than succes.  I got about the same values in my tap water as yours. Didn't measure it for a long time now but last i remember it maybe differed 1 or 2 degrees and with a average pH > 8 after water is depleted and in natural equilibrium. Far from the theoretical ideals for many maybe. Even in my low tech it took some time and patience but mean while my fissidens is growing like a champion.

I guess that's the price people pay for watching high energy tanks expecting high speed results.. And if this stays behind go on a wild goose chase to find a culprit before the lights go out..


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## Nigel95 (15 Sep 2017)

zozo said:


> It all is very relative and you can have equal good results in a wide range of parameters.. Hunting the ideal and change what is supplied from the tap oftenly only results in more work, frustration to keep it stable, more confusement and in worst case scenario more failure than succes.  I got about the same values in my tap water as yours. Didn't measure it for a long time now but last i remember it maybe differed 1 or 2 degrees and with a average pH > 8 after water is depleted and in natural equilibrium. Far from the theoretical ideals for many maybe. Even in my low tech it took some time and patience but mean while my fissidens is growing like a champion.
> 
> I guess that's the price people pay for watching high energy tanks expecting high speed results.. And if this stays behind go on a wild goose chase to find a culprit before the lights go out..



Thank you for the info Marcel. I will try it w/o RO 


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## Daveslaney (16 Sep 2017)

I found same result TBH. I saw no better results than I do now when using RO water.
My tap water is Gh 14 KH9 I think this is what I got from my water report. Not tested in tank for a long time now.
When I first started out I used a 50/50 mix RO and tap water. Water changes where a pain mixing water etc etc. Now I just empty water from the tank with a syphon , add declorinator direct to the tank fill with the hose.
As has already been said the natural process in your tank bacterial activity your substrate co2 etc will lower your tank PH GH KH anyways.


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## Nigel95 (17 Sep 2017)

Found a good deal and added 100 more rcs. With this numbers I see them eating some green thread algae so that's handy. The clithon sp. snails do a great job on cleaning the spiderwood, they stay relative small and I really love the look of them. Unfortunately a lot of buces are melting that are in direct light. The buces in shadow are still thriving. Hopefully they will bounce back I really love the look of buces. My plan was to add 6 green neon tetra's per week but now I heard if you don't add a school at once the chance is less they will school together. Anyone ever heard this? I don't really like the idea of putting 20 at once in the tank. I don't think my tank can handle that spike.


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## Daveslaney (17 Sep 2017)

I have 20 green neons in my tank. Put them in 10 at a time in a previous tank. No problems with them schooling together at all


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## Nigel95 (21 Sep 2017)

Mosses and buces growing slowly.

Not the best pic but gives an idea


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## Daveslaney (21 Sep 2017)

Looks cool.


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## CooKieS (21 Sep 2017)

Looks very natural! Sand or fine Gravel over the soil in the path would look even nicer IMO


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## Sweded (21 Sep 2017)

Here is the same style done to utter perfection for inspiration:


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## Nigel95 (21 Sep 2017)

Daveslaney said:


> Looks cool.



Thanks 



CooKieS said:


> Looks very natural! Sand or fine Gravel over the soil in the path would look even nicer IMO



Thanks I really like the yoghurt method so far. Natural look and you can cover a lot with little moss! Sand would look cool but not natural IMO. Fine gravel could be nice for sure. Maybe I will do that. 



Sweded said:


> Here is the same style done to utter perfection for inspiration:




That tank is very nice I have seen it already. It was some inspiration for me to make a forest scape style. My next ada 45p will have some roots on the trees but it will be hard to achieve something like this. It's all a learning curve  Very curious about what fish he is using they look nice.


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## CooKieS (21 Sep 2017)

These fishes are borara urophtalmoides 

Awesome nano forest by yoda...All the lovely détails are Beautiful


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## Nigel95 (1 Oct 2017)

*Day 60 *

Added 2 "trees" in the back. Not sure about the tree added on the left in the back. The tree added in the middle looks good IMO. Tried to tie some weeping moss from my other scape on some branches. Hard job in tank! Hate to use glue (would be much easier but still). Fish still a little bit blurry due low shutter speed. But when I change it picture gets dark. There are 13 green neon tetra in tank now. I keep 5 of them in another temporary tank to keep bacteria alive for my next scape (that is now in DSM). After that they will be added to the scape.




forest scape 128l day 60 p3 by Nigel H, on Flickr


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## Nigel95 (7 Oct 2017)

Added some details (roots) on a few trees.

Not sure what I like more I think with roots but it's close...

What do you think?

*With roots*


forest scape day 65 128l by Nigel H, on Flickr

*No roots*


forest scape 128l day 60 p4 by Nigel H, on Flickr


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## zozo (7 Oct 2017)

Nigel95 said:


> What do you think?



Take out the crossed ones.. Makes it to bussy..  KISS is the key.. (Keep It Simple Stupid)..


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## Nigel95 (7 Oct 2017)

zozo said:


> Take out the crossed ones.. Makes it to bussy..  KISS is the key.. (Keep It Simple Stupid)..
> View attachment 110552



Lol at that flag 

Thanks for feedback. 


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## Doubu (8 Oct 2017)

I actually like how busy it looks. I think what you might want to do instead is increase the substrate line and slope it higher from back to front (and angle some pieces of wood towards your vanishing point. Excellent start!


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## Nigel95 (8 Oct 2017)

Doubu said:


> I actually like how busy it looks. I think what you might want to do instead is increase the substrate line and slope it higher from back to front (and angle some pieces of wood towards your vanishing point. Excellent start!



Thanks. Yeah higher substrate at the back would be great but this will make a big mess if I try to do this.


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## Sweded (8 Oct 2017)

You want to add as much detail and dynamics as possible as long as it looks natural. Those thin roots need to be wrapped in line with the larger wood they are attached to just like in nature. 
This takes a lot of work and trial and error. 
You know how much time was spend on this hardscape? Practise makes perfect. 

You can never have too much detail...Unless you make it look man made.
I agree with a steeper slope and a steeper canyon.


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## Nigel95 (8 Oct 2017)

Sweded said:


> You want to add as much detail and dynamics as possible as long as it looks natural. Those thin roots need to be wrapped in line with the larger wood they are attached to just like in nature.
> This takes a lot of work and trial and error.
> You know how much time was spend on this hardscape? Practise makes perfect.
> 
> ...




True True. 

But how can I make a steeper slope w/o a mess. 


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## Sweded (8 Oct 2017)

It's easier to build a steeper slope with a heavier and uneven substrate.
A trick from keeping avalanches at bay is to stuff things in the substrate at the slope. The green machine sell something they call TGM Substrate Supports which is basically corrugated plastic you can find on amazon and ebay for cheaper called Correx. Plants and rocks tend to keep the slope at bay as well. Still you will probably need to scoop up some substrate from the front till you reach stability.


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## zozo (8 Oct 2017)

Sweded said:


> Substrate Supports



Do you know these very cheap black plastic plant pots? They come in square and round perforated as pond plant pot non perforated as garden plant pot and in all kinds of sizes. These you can cut with scissors or box cutter very easily and the pieces can perfectly be used as substrate support. Non perforated to also retain plants, perforated to let roots grow through easily making it even stronger. Only with using the perforated versions you need to look how they are perforated and or cut in the correct direction to prevent bending.


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## Nigel95 (15 Oct 2017)

Moss on the lava rocks has grown a lot. Also added some moss on the trees with glue. Not really happy with the result. Wish I used fishing line while setting up the tank. Now very hard / impossible to do with trees standing up. But still I think the glued moss is better than no moss. Enjoy the video!
*
Day 75*


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## Daveslaney (15 Oct 2017)

Very nice.
Once the moss on the trees grows in it will cover the glue nicely.


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## Nigel95 (4 Nov 2017)

*Day 95*
More details


day 95 forest aquascape by nigel aquascaping by Nigel H, on Flickr


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## foxfish (4 Nov 2017)

Looking fantastic!


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## tam (4 Nov 2017)

Very nice! I like the mix of plants around the tree bases, very natural. 

A slightly odd idea, but have you thought about adding some trunk shadows to the backdrop - really, really subtle ones but it will give it instant depth and make it look like they disappear into the mist rather than the forest ends abruptly. Can show you a 'shop of what I mean if you like.


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## steveno (5 Nov 2017)

Looking very nice, it will look fantastic once it matures.


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## Nigel95 (5 Nov 2017)

foxfish said:


> Looking fantastic!



Thanks foxfish 



tam said:


> Very nice! I like the mix of plants around the tree bases, very natural.
> 
> A slightly odd idea, but have you thought about adding some trunk shadows to the backdrop - really, really subtle ones but it will give it instant depth and make it look like they disappear into the mist rather than the forest ends abruptly. Can show you a 'shop of what I mean if you like.



Thanks and sure show me!



steveno said:


> Looking very nice, it will look fantastic once it matures.



Thank you steveno!


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## foxfish (5 Nov 2017)

I only spot one thing I might alter... the fourth from the left looks a little odd, the trees tapper looks wrong as it is a little bulbous in the middle & not quite natural.
That might be a little too critical though as honestly it still looks fab.


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## tam (5 Nov 2017)

Like this. You'd have to experiment but I would guess with the frosted background if you added some irregular strips of thick card or maybe even some actual twigs behind the tank you'd get a less even light through to give you the sort of shadowy trees disappearing into the mist look you get if you walk through thick fog. The whites just a bit to even and perfect compared to the gnarly trees.


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## Nigel95 (5 Nov 2017)

foxfish said:


> I only spot one thing I might alter... the fourth from the left looks a little odd, the trees tapper looks wrong as it is a little bulbous in the middle & not quite natural.
> That might be a little too critical though as honestly it still looks fab.



I agree. At that time it was the only tree I had left with a suitable size. I will put some moss on it 

Thanks for the heads up!


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## Nigel95 (7 Nov 2017)

Made a wooden box of 80x40x40 cm to practice with hardscaping. Very fun to do. Here a new try of a forest scape. Feel free to give critique.


hardscape 1 by nigel aquascaping forest by Nigel H, on Flickr


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## Nigel95 (25 Nov 2017)

*Day 115*
Testing out my new DSLR and lenses. Still learning , here a new video with also some macro shots.


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## Nigel95 (9 Dec 2017)

Red cherry shrimp on bucephalandra leaf (kedagang mini).



rcs with buce 2.0 by Nigel H, on Flickr


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## Kitalexander (10 Dec 2017)

Nigel95 said:


> Made a wooden box of 80x40x40 cm to practice with hardscaping. Very fun to do. Here a new try of a forest scape. Feel free to give critique.
> 
> hardscape 1 by nigel aquascaping forest by Nigel H, on Flickr


There's a lot more depth in this scape I really like it. I think the increased substrate height at the back helps


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## Nigel95 (10 Dec 2017)

Kitalexander said:


> There's a lot more depth in this scape I really like it. I think the increased substrate height at the back helps



Yeah the increased substrate makes a big difference. Also the point in front so low helps. Beside that more trees from front to back. Thanks!


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## Nigel95 (16 Dec 2017)

Quick scape today. Forest again  80x40x40 cm. Feel free to give critique



hardscape 2 forest aquascape 2.0 by nigel aquascaping by Nigel H, on Flickr


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## Nigel95 (19 Dec 2017)

My scapes


ada 45p and 80 cm forests by Nigel H, on Flickr


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## Daveslaney (20 Dec 2017)

Really nice.


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## Nigel95 (29 Dec 2017)

Bucephalandra kedagang mini in my tank 


buces kedagang mini by Nigel H, on Flickr


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## Nigel95 (3 Jan 2018)

*Vacation, so plenty of time to practice. what do you think?*


hardscape 7  forest aquascape by nigel aquascaping by Nigel H, on Flickr


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## Nigel95 (27 Jan 2018)

Tried my macro lens again not the best shots but good enough for sharing I think!

They are not the most beautiful shrimp but very effective in cleaning the tank!



amano shrimp by nigel aquascaping by Nigel H, on Flickr


red cherry shrimp by nigel aquascaping by Nigel H, on Flickr


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## kadoxu (29 Jan 2018)

Nigel95 said:


> Tried my macro lens again not the best shots but good enough for sharing I think!
> 
> They are not the most beautiful shrimp but very effective in cleaning the tank!
> 
> ...


Great pics! Looks like they've been playing around with glitter!


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## cosmin_ruz (29 Jan 2018)

Nigel95 said:


> *Vacation, so plenty of time to practice. what do you think?*
> 
> 
> hardscape 7  forest aquascape by nigel aquascaping by Nigel H, on Flickr


Much better!


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## Nigel95 (29 Jan 2018)

kadoxu said:


> Great pics! Looks like they've been playing around with glitter!



Haa yeah 

Thanks man 


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## Ulfsark (31 Jan 2018)

Stunning tanks and photo quality.


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## PARAGUAY (1 Feb 2018)

“not the best shots”- Nigel those shrimp close ups are stunning!


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## Nigel95 (1 Feb 2018)

PARAGUAY said:


> “not the best shots”- Nigel those shrimp close ups are stunning!



Thanks for the compliment 


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## Nigel95 (20 Feb 2018)

Almost ready for the final shot! 


detail shot forest scape by nigel aquascaping by Nigel H, on Flickr


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## Shinobi (20 Feb 2018)

Love it! Excellent choice of fish also


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## Nigel95 (21 Feb 2018)

Shinobi said:


> Love it! Excellent choice of fish also



Thanks 

Yeah the green neon tetras are very nice against all the green IMO. I think ember tetra will also look cool.


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## Nigel95 (25 Feb 2018)

My green neon tetra. They really shine in my forest and school well.



green neon tetra by Nigel H, on Flickr


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## cosmin_ruz (26 Feb 2018)

Nice fish and picture!


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## CooKieS (26 Feb 2018)

Awesome shot


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## Waterhops (27 Feb 2018)

Love your scape, very well thought out


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## Nigel95 (2 Mar 2018)

Bucephalandra kedagang mini


bucephalandra kedagang mini by Nigel H, on Flickr


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## CooKieS (2 Mar 2018)

Nice. Where did you buy it?


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## Nigel95 (2 Mar 2018)

CooKieS said:


> Nice. Where did you buy it?



Thanks! 

Store in The Netherlands but unfortunately they are bankrupt now. ☹️


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## Nigel95 (4 Mar 2018)

My new mikrogeophagus ramirezi 


Mikrogeophagus ramirezi by Nigel H, on Flickr


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## Nigel95 (14 Mar 2018)

Some pearlweed got stuck in my weeping moss and grew from there. Pretty cool IMO!


pearlweed in weeping moss 3 by Nigel H, on Flickr


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## Nigel95 (15 Mar 2018)

forest collage blurred by nigel by Nigel H, on Flickr


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## Nigel95 (18 Mar 2018)

Yoghurt method works very good with fine delicate mosses like fissidens and riccardia. You need some patience.


details growth by nigel by Nigel H, on Flickr


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## Eduard18 (18 Mar 2018)

outstanding ! can you give more details about your DSM routine please


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## Hades (19 Mar 2018)

Nigel95 said:


> Yoghurt method works very good with fine delicate mosses like fissidens and riccardia. You need some patience.
> 
> 
> details growth by nigel by Nigel H, on Flickr



The Dutch aquascaper @work!
 
Goed bezig!


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## Nigel95 (19 Mar 2018)

Eduard18 said:


> outstanding ! can you give more details about your DSM routine please



Thank you 

Good link about blender method 

I dry started 4 weeks in this tank. 3 weeks in my ada 45p. There was not much condensation on the glass because I had two big openings for ventilation to prevent mold. I had some mold on the wood. My advice start with a small opening so the environment will be humid. If there is mold then increase the openings. Basically I did two succesful dry starts with condensation on the glass and w/o. Both are fine. Fissidens is really bulletproof IMO.

Daily 10-15 min airing and spray after that with RO water to prevent lime build up on the glass.

Keep it wet but not dripping wet. No water pools this can cause algae.

Lighting period can go 12-14 hours a day because there is no water in it. No experience with burning mosses but I heard if you use to much light (not sure how much PAR exactly) it can burn the moss. So maybe hang the light some what higher if possible if you have really high light above the tank.



Hades said:


> The Dutch aquascaper @work!
> 
> Goed bezig!



Ha Willem is that you? 

Thanks


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## Eduard18 (19 Mar 2018)

Thank you !


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## Hades (20 Mar 2018)

Nigel95 said:


> Ha Willem is that you?



It is possible...


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## Nigel95 (24 Mar 2018)

Here is is a video how I reduce organic waste in the aquarium beside a lots of shrimps and a filter with 10x turnover. I use a turkey baster combined with an hose and try to do this biweekly. Works pretty good.

How do you reduce organic waste?


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## Nigel95 (15 Apr 2018)

Short maintenance video


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## MJF90 (16 Apr 2018)

Nice video man!


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## Nigel95 (17 Apr 2018)

Forest details


forest 4 by Nigel H, on Flickr


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## Nigel95 (22 Apr 2018)

RIP Forest.

Time for something new! I will share the final video and final shot after contest results.



new start 80cm by Nigel H, on Flickr


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## Daveslaney (22 Apr 2018)

Good luck with the contest Nigel.
Fantastic scape and journal .


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## MJF90 (22 Apr 2018)

Planning on doing another forest scape? Good luck with the contests!


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## Shinobi (22 Apr 2018)

Hey Nigel,

Did you get a replacement for your power supply?


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## Nigel95 (22 Apr 2018)

Daveslaney said:


> Good luck with the contest Nigel.
> Fantastic scape and journal .



Thank you Daveslaney! 



MJF90 said:


> Planning on doing another forest scape? Good luck with the contests!



Not really a forest scape like this again. But I loved it for sure! Just don't wanna do the same style over and over again. Although I start a new nano tank this summer which gonna be with wood and mosses.  The 80cm tank is gonna be a valley with stones,woods and small details.And thnx! 




Shinobi said:


> Hey Nigel,
> 
> Did you get a replacement for your power supply?



Hey, yes it works fine now.


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## Nigel95 (29 Apr 2018)

Moving on to mixing my own ferts. It is cheaper and have I more control to get the values that I desire. Going for an ADA approach with more PO4. Gonna make three bottles. One with N/P, one with K and one with micros.


dry salts planted box 2.0 by Nigel H, on Flickr


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## Jayefc1 (2 May 2018)

When do we get to see the final shots of forest Nigel


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## Nigel95 (2 May 2018)

Jayefc1 said:


> When do we get to see the final shots of forest Nigel



Hi Thats still taking a long time…not sure if I share it in August when we know the ranking of IAPLC. Maybe even later after AGA/EAPLC. Sorry guys. 


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## Jayefc1 (2 May 2018)

Oh wow that long that sucks


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## Nigel95 (5 May 2018)

Details


forest 5 by Nigel H, on Flickr


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## CooKieS (5 May 2018)

Nigel95 said:


> Hi Thats still taking a long time…not sure if I share it in August when we know the ranking of IAPLC. Maybe even later after AGA/EAPLC. Sorry guys.
> 
> 
> Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk





Jayefc1 said:


> Oh wow that long that sucks



I have to agree, that stupid contest rule of exclusivity sucks


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## Nigel95 (19 Jul 2018)

Forest details


forest detail 128l nigel aquascaping by Nigel Aquascaping, on Flickr


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## keano (30 Jul 2018)

Love your tanks Nigel.

It's inspired me to do a forrst scape next in a spare ADA 30cube i have. Just trying to get hold of some right pieces of wood. Not sure how much more difficult it will be with a cube dimensions tank


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## Nigel95 (30 Jul 2018)

keano said:


> Love your tanks Nigel.
> 
> It's inspired me to do a forrst scape next in a spare ADA 30cube i have. Just trying to get hold of some right pieces of wood. Not sure how much more difficult it will be with a cube dimensions tank



Thank you!

I am not so fan of cubes. But possible! I prefer tanks with more depth than height. Gives wider appearence. But still my tanks don’t really have that dimensions. But I never had a real cube. 

Pieces are hard to collect for forest scape. Lots of sniping in stores and need to saw. 

Big pieces In front is important. If you cannot find big ones try to combine multiple pieces and put moss on connections. And Tiny roots is important for detail work to make impact. 

I just bought some “Nice” tree pieces last time when I was hunting for Seiryu at different stores. Wish I Found this pieces when making my first two forests! Not planning a forest now again but Maybe in future  













 


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## keano (30 Jul 2018)

they are very nice pieces, my LFS is rubbish! so no such pieces availble other than online so making if difficult


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## Nigel95 (30 Jul 2018)

keano said:


> they are very nice pieces, my LFS is rubbish! so no such pieces availble other than online so making if difficult



It is hard. I also need to drive a lot
to good stores. For good hardscape you need to visit lots of stores. Not just 1 or 2. 


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## Nigel95 (9 Aug 2018)

My first IAPLC letter. Very exciting! Goal was top 500. Very close 


iaplc rank 477 by Nigel Aquascaping, on Flickr


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## Zeus. (9 Aug 2018)

Well done


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## Iain Sutherland (9 Aug 2018)

Congrats, that's a great result considering that anything under 90cm generally does pretty badly.  Kudos 

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk


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## Wulfen (9 Aug 2018)

Great scape, well deserved


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## Edvet (9 Aug 2018)

Gefeliciteerd!


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## DutchMuch (9 Aug 2018)

Super nice nigel ! and yes well deserved indeed!


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## Nigel95 (9 Aug 2018)

Zeus. said:


> Well done



Thanks man


Iain Sutherland said:


> Congrats, that's a great result considering that anything under 90cm generally does pretty badly.  Kudos
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk



Thank you. For a big tank like 120cm I have no space. Or I have to sell the 80cm + 45cm but I kinda like multiple tanks/styles. I think I will learn faster currently with multiple tanks. Maybe in the future a bigger tank but not now.



Wulfen said:


> Great scape, well deserved



Thanks man



Edvet said:


> Gefeliciteerd!



Dankje!



DutchMuch said:


> Super nice nigel ! and yes well deserved indeed!



Thank you


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## Doubu (9 Aug 2018)

Congrats!!


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## doylecolmdoyle (10 Aug 2018)

Nice work, takes some commitment to enter these competitions! Can you post your final photo now?


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## Keith GH (10 Aug 2018)

Nigel

Congratulations all that hard work has finally paid off.

Keith


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## Nigel95 (10 Aug 2018)

Doubu said:


> Congrats!!



Thank you 



doylecolmdoyle said:


> Nice work, takes some commitment to enter these competitions! Can you post your final photo now?



Thanks! Final photo and video will be around September. I also entered IIAC and CIPS. 



Keith GH said:


> Nigel
> 
> Congratulations all that hard work has finally paid off.
> 
> Keith



Thanks Keith


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## CooKieS (11 Aug 2018)

Iaplc is an ridiculous contest, everything that is placed over the top 100 is randomly ranked anyway


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## Zeus. (11 Aug 2018)

CooKieS said:


> 100 is randomly ranked anyway



wouldn't surprise me at all , but it all takes time and entry is free so to be expected in away


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## Iain Sutherland (11 Aug 2018)

CooKieS said:


> Iaplc is an ridiculous contest, everything that is placed over the top 100 is randomly ranked anyway


This used to be the case years ago but believe it changed some 8 or so years ago, they are ranked randomly in 50's up to 500 then in random 100's for the rest. Hence why the car crash tanks don't end up at rank 101.

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## Nigel95 (11 Aug 2018)

Another sneak peak before the FTS and final video.



forest 8 by Nigel Aquascaping, on Flickr


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## CooKieS (11 Aug 2018)

Nigel95 said:


> Another sneak peak before the FTS and final video.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Nigel95 (11 Aug 2018)

Thank you. I have talked with different people and some have moved from IAPLC. I heard, but I am not sure if it is True but Classic nature style and larger leaved plants are in favour this year. Ofc there will be diorama in top 127 but Maybe Classic nature style will dominate in the top. I am not sure but Maybe more Classic nature style in top can boost sales. I think Very technical scapes are to complex for people that see IAPLC for the first time. They may have no idea where to start and think my entry is not good enough to enter IAPLC. Yet ofc Ada wants as much people entering contests. Contest is rescaping every year which is better for sales.  I respect IAPLC and will enter again next year. It is a dream to rank high once. But IAPLC has some strange things if you think about it. Most if not all judges are not aquascapers. Maybe some don’t even set up an aquarium in their life. Yet they judge on scapes. Do they understand What it takes if they have no experience in making? Contests like CIPS have lots of aquascapers as judges. Previous year top 100 CIPS was doable to reach. Believe me this year will be hard lots of good entries their. 

Getting the same rank twice. Wtf the odds of that. 

Btw I respect Classic nature style but I think for New scapers it looks easier to make a copy. 


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## CooKieS (11 Aug 2018)

Well said.

Classic Nature style is my fav but the only ones that tank in the top 100 iaplc with that style are generally japanese...enough said.


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## Nigel95 (12 Aug 2018)

CooKieS said:


> Well said.
> 
> Classic Nature style is my fav but the only ones that tank in the top 100 iaplc with that style are generally japanese...enough said.



Ha yeah but also lots of entries from Japan. Aquascaping is popular there so there is more chance that they will be in the top. From the 1977, 573 are from Japan.


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## DutchMuch (12 Aug 2018)

Hot pics


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## Nigel95 (20 Aug 2018)

Rank 69 CIAC / CIPS. Final video (final shot inside video)





cips rank 69 nigel by Nigel Aquascaping, on Flickr


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## Matt @ ScapeEasy (20 Aug 2018)

Nigel95 said:


> Rank 69 CIAC / CIPS. Final video (final shot inside video)
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Massive congrats, I've been following this on Instagram for a while now... I'll watch the vid too. Great tank, well done


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## Nigel95 (21 Aug 2018)

Matt @ ScapeEasy said:


> Massive congrats, I've been following this on Instagram for a while now... I'll watch the vid too. Great tank, well done



Thank you!


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## Ysiatis (22 Aug 2018)

Waw ! Congratulations Nigel ! 
Been following your work (and this tank turning to a "under 100 rated gorgeous tank" ) on differents supports (Youtube, forums NA and FR etc) and want to thank you for the tips, lessons, etc you gave/are giving ! That's really kind and appreciated by a lot of persons ! 
Wish you the best for your next tanks/scapes and for your life in general !  (please, apologize my english, I usually speak french hihihi)


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## Nigel95 (25 Aug 2018)

Very happy with the outcome of my first diorama scape. Rank 69 CIAC!

Thanks for all the support!

Let's scape hard!




enchanted forest nature aquarium aquascape nigel aquascaping ciac rank 69 by Nigel Aquascaping, on Flickr


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## Nigel95 (25 Aug 2018)

Ysiatis said:


> Waw ! Congratulations Nigel !
> Been following your work (and this tank turning to a "under 100 rated gorgeous tank" ) on differents supports (Youtube, forums NA and FR etc) and want to thank you for the tips, lessons, etc you gave/are giving ! That's really kind and appreciated by a lot of persons !
> Wish you the best for your next tanks/scapes and for your life in general !  (please, apologize my english, I usually speak french hihihi)



Thanks for the kinds words bro!! No problem I understand your English. 

You also good luck!


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## TBRO (26 Aug 2018)

Fantastic result Nigel, really enjoyed studying the pictures. Great use of various mosses. I really like the hydrocotyle, reminds me of Psorel growing on forest floor. T 


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## CooKieS (26 Aug 2018)

Participating to ciac is prohibited by iaplc no?


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## Zeus. (26 Aug 2018)

Great tank, fantastic photography as usual 
Well deserved ranking IMO


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## Nigel95 (27 Aug 2018)

TBRO said:


> Fantastic result Nigel, really enjoyed studying the pictures. Great use of various mosses. I really like the hydrocotyle, reminds me of Psorel growing on forest floor. T
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Thanks man! Yeah the hydrocotyle is a great extra touch with all the moss IMO! 



CooKieS said:


> Participating to ciac is prohibited by iaplc no?



It is but I also entered IIAC. Usually when you don't rank top 127 IAPLC it is no problem. Friend of my had a warning once and last year a USA scaper got DQ (from IAPLC) because he entered IAPLC and IIAC and both got in top.  



Zeus. said:


> Great tank, fantastic photography as usual
> Well deserved ranking IMO



Thanks bro


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## Nigel95 (28 Aug 2018)

Awesome chance!!  As I am ranked 1 of the Netherlands and in top 200 of CIAC 2018 I can go for free to the event! Flight and hotel all paid. Still can't believe it! Keep on scaping. 

china ciac cips by Nigel Aquascaping, on Flickr


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## Matt @ ScapeEasy (28 Aug 2018)

Wow nice! Great opportunity


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## Keith GH (29 Aug 2018)

Nigel

Well done you deserve it with all the hard work you have put in to get to that high standard of work.

Keith


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## DeepMetropolis (29 Aug 2018)

Gefeliciteerd! Did not know there was a dutch scaping contest.. Except for nbat..


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## Nigel95 (30 Aug 2018)

Keith GH said:


> Nigel
> 
> Well done you deserve it with all the hard work you have put in to get to that high standard of work.
> 
> Keith



Thanks Keith and thanks again for helping with this tank Keith!!



DeepMetropolis said:


> Gefeliciteerd! Did not know there was a dutch scaping contest.. Except for nbat..



Thanks. No it is a Chinese contest not a dutch contest. All countries can enter this contest. But this year the number 1 of every country got an invite to go to CIPS. All paid.


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## DeepMetropolis (30 Aug 2018)

Nigel95 said:


> Thanks. No it is a Chinese contest not a dutch contest. All countries can enter this contest. But this year the number 1 of every country got an invite to go to CIPS. All paid.



Oooh okay, I thought there where a Dutch and a Chinese contest.. Now i understand.. Well good luck in china I would love to go there sometimes, great that they give you such an oppertunity!


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## Nigel95 (8 Sep 2018)

Different stages of my 80cm Forest. Full playlist with all videos from start to end. *CLICK HERE for playlist *

Please subscribe if you like my content 



collage enchanted forest by nigel aquascaping by Nigel Aquascaping, on Flickr


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## Keith GH (9 Sep 2018)

Nigel.

One word reply.

Fantastic.

Keith


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## Nigel95 (9 Sep 2018)

Short 1 minute video with all stages of the forest. Enjoy!


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## Matt @ ScapeEasy (9 Sep 2018)

Really like this scape!  it looks so natural... not overly neat like some dioramas.


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## Nigel95 (9 Sep 2018)

Matt @ ScapeEasy said:


> Really like this scape!  it looks so natural... not overly neat like some dioramas.



Haha thanks. Yes a wild style can look ok in forest. But it was also me pretty lazy to trim everything perfect.  Next scapes I am trying to do it a little more neat. Yeah it's a matter of taste what you like more wild style or manicure look.


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## Keith GH (10 Sep 2018)

Nigel

Nature is not manicured to perfection its either wild and over grown like many rain forests/jungles or a 50/50 mix which is in my opinion the best looking of them all.
The hardest thing is getting the right mix and you have done it.

Keith


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## Nigel95 (14 Sep 2018)

First time IIAC. I entered with two tanks and placed 78 with the 80cm and 292 with the 45P. Total entries of 533 from 45 countries. Have a nice weekend!



IIAC078-1 by Nigel Aquascaping, on Flickr


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## Nigel95 (2 Oct 2018)

Some highlights of my trip to China, Guangzhou at CIPS 2018. This trip was unbelievable, amazing. I can't describe it with words. Met so many aquascapers that I admire. I learned a lot, live scaped for the first time and had so much fun. I had the chance to go to this contest because I ranked 69 in the medium / big category and was first of my country The Netherlands with my forest aquascape. Also in the nano tank category I was rank 30 with my forest aquarium. My rank in the livescaping was 20 out of 25. Thank you CFAA, CIAC and CIPS for the this beautiful experience!


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## Edvet (2 Oct 2018)




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## CooKieS (2 Oct 2018)

Lucky you, lovely livescape too, out of your confort zone! Well done Nigel, keep up


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## Nigel95 (13 Oct 2018)

My tank with black background in the room.




nigel aquascaping enchanted forest black background by Nigel Aquascaping, on Flickr


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## CooKieS (13 Oct 2018)

Time to rescape for 2019?


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## Nigel95 (13 Oct 2018)

CooKieS said:


> Time to rescape for 2019?



Haha my next scape for 2019 is almost finished already. In about 2 months. I didn’t share this one yet.  I will try to make another one before deadline. So the goal is 2 x 80cm layouts for the big contests next year. And a nano. But I will sell the nano tanks soon. Good to train your skills but very restricting.…


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## CooKieS (13 Oct 2018)

Nigel95 said:


> Haha my next scape for 2019 is almost finished already. In about 2 months. I didn’t share this one yet.  I will try to make another one before deadline. So the goal is 2 x 80cm layouts for the big contests next year. And a nano. But I will sell the nano tanks soon. Good to train your skills but very restricting.…
> 
> 
> Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk



Wow, nice mate, if only I had more time


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## Nigel95 (14 Oct 2018)

CooKieS said:


> Wow, nice mate, if only I had more time



Thanks. Yeah takes a lot of time scaping and maintaining all the tanks . But it’s fun!


Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk


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## Nigel95 (17 Dec 2018)

My sleeping room some time ago.


nigel aquascaping forest aquascape by Nigel Aquascaping, on Flickr


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## Ady34 (17 Dec 2018)

Very nice.


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## aquacoen (17 Dec 2018)

Nice!! gaaf hoor!


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## CooKieS (18 Dec 2018)

How can you sleep with the filters noise?


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## Nigel95 (18 Dec 2018)

CooKieS said:


> How can you sleep with the filters noise?



I don't even hear the filters tbh. My big filter is in the cabinet and sits on an anti vibration mat.


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