# Basic maintenance - how to?



## Glenda Steel (9 Jun 2016)

Is there a post or tutorial on really basic aquarium techniques?
For example:
- how long is it safe to leave the filter unplugged during maintenance?
- what's the best way to refill the tank after a water change and with what equipment?
- general tips on cleaning equipment i.e. planting tweezers, pruning scissors etc.
- general light vacuuming particularly in small tanks - tips and how to's (i.e. stop small stones lodging in vacuum tube and how to avoid damaging foliage, shrimplets/fish fry?!!!)
- when is it best to dose daily ferts/carbon for optimum benefits
- how long should you leave after a water change before dosing ferts (will the tap water and treatment affect them)?
- tips on glass cleaning including sealant
- dangers and warnings: i.e. avoid disturbing deep substrate = gasses released


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## Derek113 (9 Jun 2016)

Most answers can be found on google or from the forum members.

I got a book from my wife, aquariums for dummies. It was given to me as a joke, however it has some useful info for the beginner.

Even if you posted specific questions on here, they will be answered.


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## ian_m (9 Jun 2016)

Glenda Steel said:


> how long is it safe to leave the filter unplugged during maintenance?


Mine has been days after a power failure. So no worries even for a monster tank clean session...


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## Glenda Steel (9 Jun 2016)

Derek113 said:


> I got a book from my wife, aquariums for dummies. It was given to me as a joke, however it has some useful info for the beginner.


I'll look on Amazon for that thanks Derek and yes I have found the forum invaluable but thought rather than posting loads of threads, I'd just do one!


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## Glenda Steel (9 Jun 2016)

ian_m said:


> Mine has been days after a power failure. So no worries even for a monster tank clean session...


But I thought the biomass ceramic media etc started to die off and the tank became un-cycled?  I thought that was why I'd killed a lot of our fish by spending an hour or more cleaning with the filter off.  Is that not the case?  I leave our filter running whilst doing most of the water changing, is that a mistake?


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## ian_m (9 Jun 2016)

Glenda Steel said:


> I leave our filter running whilst doing most of the water changing, is that a mistake?


I do and I don't .

Sometimes leaving it running is nice as helps clean up water whilst fiddling.

Technically, if you read the filter instructions, you should isolate from the electrics whilst fiddling.

I have also left mine off for over a day, Saturday morning to Sunday afternoon when I did as massive rescape. No problems afterwards.

I think people "waste worries" on things that aren't a worry and completely miss the important worry which in my experience is CO2 flow and distribution.


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## Glenda Steel (9 Jun 2016)

ian_m said:


> completely miss the important worry which in my experience is CO2 flow and distribution.


That makes great sense Ian and is a huge weight of my mind!  In a low tech tank such as ours would this still apply?  We are going to be adding liquid carbon, when I can decide which one! 

Also now that our Vallis has grown up and across the glass "roof" of the Fluval Edge will that inhibit the flow and distribution of air?  I wonder whether I need to, or indeed can, add a circulation pump to this particular tank to increase it and if so which one?  After reading about CO2 distribution on the forum I have been using a battery powered air stone and moving it to areas of the tank that seem to have little movement in the plants from the filter. Ideally I'd like a more permanent solution, any suggestions welcome!  We are in the process of "finishing" our house and any time the electricity is turned off I have been having quite a panic, perhaps now I can relax a little


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## ian_m (9 Jun 2016)

Glenda Steel said:


> We are going to be adding liquid carbon, when I can decide which one!


Adding liquid carbon makes it "higher tech", so good ferts dosing, higher light is now possible, higher water flow and frequent water changes (weekly) are the order of the day.

This is what I use, despite having CO2, still dose liquid C as it has algae reducing properties. Also can be used to get rid of excessing algae on hardscape, pipes etc.
https://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/ne...7.html?zenid=6af76022837ed0df93056c9203c69f1b



Glenda Steel said:


> I wonder whether I need to, or indeed can, add a circulation pump to this particular tank to increase it and if so which one? After reading about CO2 distribution on the forum I have been using a battery powered air stone and moving it to areas of the tank that seem to have little movement in the plants from the filter


I think you are miss reading. You only need high flow and circulation if you are using CO2 gas, in order to get it all around the tank (which is hard and where many fail). When not using CO2, such finer controlled water movement is not required.


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## Julian (9 Jun 2016)

- how long is it safe to leave the filter unplugged during maintenance?
I think you're good for at least 8 hours.

- what's the best way to refill the tank after a water change and with what equipment?
I use a bucket and a pump attached to a bit of hose pipe which has a spray bar on the end. I use another bucket to keep the first one full, involves some running back and forth to the tap.

- general tips on cleaning equipment i.e. planting tweezers, pruning scissors etc.
I've never cleaned by tweezers or scissors, if they're stainless steel, they tend to keep them selves clean.

- general light vacuuming particularly in small tanks - tips and how to's (i.e. stop small stones lodging in vacuum tube and how to avoid damaging foliage, shrimplets/fish fry?!!!)
Some filter floss in the tube opening will help. If you see a critter get too close, pinch the pipe to stop the flow of water then they won't get sucked in.

- when is it best to dose daily ferts/carbon for optimum benefits
About an hour before lights on I think.

- how long should you leave after a water change before dosing ferts (will the tap water and treatment affect them)?
Before I got my controller I used to put my ferts in straight after the WC and never had an issue.

- tips on glass cleaning including sealant
Filter floss for glass, might need a razor for GSA. Toothbrush for cleaning sealant.

- dangers and warnings: i.e. avoid disturbing deep substrate = gasses released
Make sure your heater stays submerged in water, or it will crack and electrocute everything. Check your pipe fittings for leaks every so often, including filter o-ring, especially after you've cleaned them. There's obviously more but those are my big ones.


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## Glenda Steel (9 Jun 2016)

Great news all round Ian!  It's so good to talk (or in my case ask zillions of questions)!!!  I do water changes weekly anyway (at the moment every other day as the tank is a mess - my doing)  I have the filter water flow set to nearly maximum and I am gradually increasing the length of time the lights are on (they're the LED ones that came with the tank).  I am prepared to replace the Vallis' if it doesn't do well with the carbon and have some Ceratophyllum demersum on order (at least I can trim that).  So I'm now off to order the liquid carbon, thanks for that Ian!


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## Derek113 (9 Jun 2016)

I had my filter off (fluval 406) for more than a day due to impellar breaking. Everything was fine when it re-started.

I only use liquid CO2, i find that the spray bar moves the water around, however i do have a dead spot in the left corner. Easy sorted with a small power head.


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## Glenda Steel (9 Jun 2016)

Julian said:


> I use a bucket and a pump attached to a bit of hose pipe which has a spray bar on the end


I like this method Julian, it sounds far less "turbulent" than my pouring the clean water in with a glass!  A single bucket is about a 40% water change for our 46l so this method would make it super easy!  What pump do you use?



Julian said:


> might need a razor for GSA


GSA? do I have one?!!  I like using a toothbrush but need to find a curved one for the Fluval Edge (if you're listing Hagen people - more Edge friendly tools please)!!

All really useful tips Julian I've now bookmarked this - thanks!


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## Glenda Steel (9 Jun 2016)

Derek113 said:


> I had my filter off (fluval 406) for more than a day due to impellar breaking. Everything was fine when it re-started.


Such a relief, although it does mean I must have killed the fish in another way  I did buy a spare impeller/filter motor just in case ours broke down.  It's often tricky to get started particularly when snails intervene.


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## stu_ (9 Jun 2016)

I've grown Vallis with Easycarbo. Never more than 2x dosage.
No issues with melting ime


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## Derek113 (9 Jun 2016)

Glenda Steel said:


> Such a relief, although it does mean I must have killed the fish in another way  I did buy a spare impeller/filter motor just in case ours broke down.  It's often tricky to get started particularly when snails intervene.



I have kept fish for years. I was stupid for not having a spare impeller.

Although the filter should be ok left off for a while. It is not a good idea to practice this. When my hands are in the tank, ALL electrics are turned off. 
One wrong move and you can find your self in trouble. I learned this from knocking a light unit into the aquarium while pruning plants. Im glad it was off at the wall.


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## PARAGUAY (10 Jun 2016)

Glenda Steel said:


> Is there a post or tutorial on really basic aquarium techniques?
> For example:
> - how long is it safe to leave the filter unplugged during maintenance?
> - what's the best way to refill the tank after a water change and with what equipment?
> ...


In general as well as good forums like UKAPS if you dont already subscribe to Practical Fishkeeping whose experts including some you know write monthly and every topic you raise is covered


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## zozo (10 Jun 2016)

Tank maintenance realy differs from one tank to another, depending on which hardscape materials you used and how it's setup it can need some different work arounds.

For example if you use a rather light weight substrate it's better to use a air driven vacuumer, one you can adjust it's suction power then if you use a heavy river pebble or gravel where you can use a hose to syphon it clean. Heavier substrate stays down with heavier suction where lightweight gravel a more delicate aproach. And so on, there are so many ways to adchieve the same results and so everybody has it's own preferences what to use from razor blades to creditcards and thootbrushes to paint brushes.

In general you could say you use what your hardscape setup allows you to use, depending on how you set it up you even sometimes have to think of DIY alternatives to get to certain corners hard to reach. I have 3 tanks now and i need or use different tools for each tank. In one tank i need to put a little piece of sponge on my tweezer to get to the glass behind some hardscape pieces because it's impossible to get in there with my hands. I have long tweezers and short tweezers, straigh or bend, long and short sciccors straight, bend and curved , hard and soft brushes, large and small pieces of sponge some are soft others are rough. And while it develops because of plant growth i sometimes have to brain storm to find out some new techniques to pull it off because the old one doesn't do anymore.. 

All an all i fun and sometimes complex process to keep it all tiddy and neat..


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## Glenda Steel (10 Jun 2016)

Thank you so much chaps!  I've just finished another 2 hour maintenance and actually enjoyed it!  Will all these tips I finally feel a little more in control, not only that it was so much easier.  I would love to hear about any odd/quirky tools or methods that people have invented for maintaining a sparkling fresh tank.  Oh and thanks Ian


ian_m said:


> This is what I use


the Neutro co2 from @Aqua Essentials has arrived and have just done the first mini-dose!


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## BexHaystack (16 Jun 2016)

I'm new to this too and initially found it all very overwhelming - even with a small, low-ish (liquid carbon) tech tank. There's a lot of info out there, lots of it helpful but sometimes it can become confusing, you get to the point where you end up with more questions than answers, the answers you get breed more questions and on it goes! From my experience, small as it is, I've found that having a good cleaning routine and sticking to it is super important, and getting together a collection of tools, buckets, jugs, pipes, towels and many other random things that make cleaning more efficient and enjoyable goes a long way. 

I found this video really helpful 
https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=E_5iWuHwP3g

He makes it look so easy...


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## Glenda Steel (16 Jun 2016)

Hi BexHaystack!  Thank you so, so much for this video link!!!!


BexHaystack said:


> I found this video really helpful
> https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=E_5iWuHwP3g



I hadn't seen it before and it's dispelled so many of my worries about tank maintenance. I had no idea that the weekly tank cleaning could be enjoyable and good on Mr Farmer (@George Farmer ) for making it more so with a glass of wine and music!  Up until recently I had been getting into such a panic about it even to the extent of phoning my Husband to warn him not to disturb me as I was "tank cleaning".  I thought that it was life or death for the livestock if I got it wrong!

Not realising the filter could be off for so long and that that amount of cloudy water will not kill all that lived in the tank is a revelation. I was scared to death to touch the gravel let alone waft it around.  

I adore this particular George Farmer tank but adore it more now I've seen it needing a little maintenance (albeit a tiny bit) and how perfect the results can be.  I had no idea you could do a 70 or 80% water change. I start to panic if it's more than 40% thinking the fish and shrimp will be in a panic too.  Ok the Amano's usually are, all rushing about at break neck speed but maybe it's just them - or me sending them in a panic.... or perhaps they're having fun?!!!!

I know I worry too much!  Everything went horribly wrong when my fears of vacuuming up baby shrimplets and having particularly nervous fish got the better of me.  I went "lightly" over areas of the tank which probably needed the most attention and even avoided cleaning the fish hiding place.  The explosion of plants became overwhelming so I eased off the ferts and light.  The inevitable happened and things spiralled into a rapid decline of algae and decay.


BexHaystack said:


> a good cleaning routine and sticking to it is super important


The fundamentals of aquascaping in a succinct nutshell!  Particularly the "sticking to it" part!!!

Thank you so much BexHaystack for your complete understanding and help.

If it wasn't for this forum our poor tank inhabitants would have had to be re-homed. I really can't stop saying a huge THANK YOU to everyone!!!


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## Glenda Steel (16 Jun 2016)

ian_m said:


> This is what I use, despite having CO2, still dose liquid C as it has algae reducing properties. Also can be used to get rid of excessing algae on hardscape, pipes etc.
> https://www.aquaessentials.co.uk/ne...7.html?zenid=6af76022837ed0df93056c9203c69f1b


I've been using this for just under a week Ian and it's super easy and (touch wood) seems to be making a great difference to both plants and water quality.  The fish and shrimp seem far more spritely!


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## alto (16 Jun 2016)

Glenda Steel said:


> I thought that was why I'd killed a lot of our fish by spending an hour or more cleaning with the filter off


Can you provide details on this scenario (or just leave it in the past if you like  )

I do think one needs to be a bit more careful with the Edge than more open tanks - there is little surface area for gas exchange given the limited access to what is essentially a close box aquarium.
If you're going to do a through maintenance session on this tank,

1) perform a quick 25% water change - this should ensure good levels of oxygen in the water column especially if you leave the filter running during the water change - all that splashing while the water level is lower, helps with air mixing from atmosphere into the water
Likely a convenient way to re-add water to the Edge is with a watering can  (I have a Haws with rose attachment - just as an example of the end piece, any brand should do), again the gently splash will provide  good oxygenation while not disturbing substrate etc.

2) lower water level several cm's (after that 25% water change ie remove 30% of the water & re-add 20% to end up with a good working level) so that while filter is off/gone, there is a nice big interface for gas exchange between water & air

3) add additional Prime - note that unless you pretreat the change water before adding it back into the tank, any water conditioner should always be dosed for the entire tank volume.

If planning on disturbing substrate or debris (trapped in plants or hardscape etc), then I always add a second dose.
If there's a sudden release of a lot of debris, I'll add yet another dose - Prime & similar water conditioners don't hang about in the tank water for hours waiting for newly released grunge, most of the active compound is _consumed_ within 10 - 20 min ... I'm using my poor recall here, it may be a bit longer - there are actual studies on this done with Prime if you can find them; if you use an alternative brand, contact their tech department & ask for details on reactivity, binding studies, duration etc, 
Eg, Kordon had some excellent information sheets on their website though it seems they may only be available upon request now 

Note that whenever adding anything to my tanks, I always dilute whatever additive into a cup (or litre) of treated tap water (or tank water) 

 (Prime has a unique structure such that it binds nitrogenous compounds that many other water conditioners don't, it also has very little in the way of (unnecessary) surfactants such as PEG (versions of which give most conditioners that viscosity & "slime coat" protection etc ... while not considered "toxic" it is considered an "irritant" - which is why it promotes slime coat production in fishes ... so that's true enough)

4) add back the filter or an airstone or perform a quick 25% water change if you observe livestock stress - not always so easy to diagnose, shrimp zoom in stress, but also when excited (mating, food, who knows) & reclusive fish pale & hide the instant the filter goes off (or I look at them too closely  )

5) how long can a filter be "off" - this depends ... the main requirement of the bacteria of interest (those N-cycle guys are especially important but there are other bacteria & microfauna performing other maintenance duties) is damp + oxygen, so if you leave a sludge bound sponge or other media sitting for hours (especially if it's hot), expect some slowdown of your N-cycle group (most enter a hibernation type phase before actual death so just some daily water changes for a few days will generally see your filter back in condition).
If you have a lightly stocked tank or more enduring fish or lots of active plant growth, changes in filter efficacy may go unnoticed


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## Glenda Steel (17 Jun 2016)

Thank you so much Alto for spending time to post such a helpful response!  I will study it at the weekend when I have time to read through properly and I will post the details of the decline of our poor fish too.  I really can't thank you enough!!!!


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## PARAGUAY (17 Jun 2016)

Having a  spare impellor and o ring for filter,or if affordable spare filter can be a basic model ,handy in crisis if needing to keep bio fiiltration going,I have a spare filter head in case of emergency


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## alto (17 Jun 2016)

PARAGUAY said:


> if affordable spare filter


This  
Aquarium shops have become a Vanishing Species in my area so I now have spare heaters, spare filters, spare light ...


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