# New tank lighting suggestions



## Kogre (17 Apr 2013)

Hi all,

I'm new to the concept of a planted tank and am looking to go high tech over the next couple of months. The length of my tank will be 68" with a width of 24". The tank I'll be purchasing comes with a hood and condensation covers but either no lighting or poor lighting. I'm going to opt with no lighting as I want to install something that will effectively grow carpet plants at a depth of 30".

I've been looking into lighting and have come to understand that it comes at various lengths. What would or could you recommend to me to purchase that would give me medium to high amount of light in a tank that has an estimated capacity of 198 US gallons, 164 Imperial gallons or 750 litres while getting good horizontal coverage due to the bespoke size?  Can I screw the light units into the hood?  Would it be better not to have the hood?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## jimwalsh (17 Apr 2013)

have a look at the TMC grotiles with a aquaray controller.

the controller allows good management of the intensity which is the cause of much woe in high tech tanks...

The MMC mounting system means that you can screw into the hood or suspend over the top as you prefer.


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## Kogre (17 Apr 2013)

I quite like that controller. I'm not so sure about the lights though, I couldn't find anything against TMC grotiles.

Will I need to buy ballasts? Are ballasts the what the bulbs go into? Sorry for the ignorance here.

Ideally I'd like to have either 4 or 8 bulbs in all. The Arcadia 35W 30" would be perfect size-wise, but I'd definitely need 8 of those.  Even then the light wouldn't be bright enough, at a paltry 1.41wpg.


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## NanoJames (17 Apr 2013)

From what I've gathered, LEDs are more expensive but offer the best plant growth and have a relatively low wattage. They arebetter than most T5s as well if I remember rightly. Look for TMC grobeam and TMC LED tile and you might get some results. On a tank this size you may need several light units which, as I said, could get very expensive! Have a look at TMC's range and see what you think!


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## ian_m (17 Apr 2013)

NanoJames said:


> From what I've gathered, LEDs are more expensive.....and have a relatively low wattage


Correct.



NanoJames said:


> but offer the best plant growth


Wrong wrong wrong wrong. Light is light is light and plants don't care.


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## NanoJames (17 Apr 2013)

I thought that surely 2 1500 HD TMC tiles would be better than one T5 ballast?


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## ceg4048 (17 Apr 2013)

It will grow more algae. Is that better?

Cheers,


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## Kogre (17 Apr 2013)

*NanoJames* many thanks, but that would blow the budget and prolong the time it'll take to get the tank setup due to financial constraints. I found a "buy one get one half price" deal I could take advantage of in the future if my lighting requirements are insufficient though. It may be something I look into in the long run.

Forgive my ignorance, but in order for me to get a more traditional t5 lighting up and running, as opposed to LED, I'd need tubes, ballasts and a controller that supports the number of ballasts I have? It sounds like an expensive and cumbersome amount of components if that's the case.

*ceg4048*, I'd be interested in your thoughts and input too, you tend to explain stuff with reasoning.

Do I need the full horizontal footprint of the tank lit or will  a few inches off either end be something I can get away with if I get good reflectors (yet another component...)? Is it almost impossible for me to get the ideal 2+wpg?


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## NanoJames (17 Apr 2013)

> It will grow more algae. Is that better?


Jeez guys , I was just stating the fact that I would much rather have an AquaGro over my nano than my Arc Pod. I presumed that because Kogre seemed a pretty intelligent guy that he would understand that there is a need for CO2 and extra nutrients! Kogre, sorry to have this on your thread and feel free to get a mod to delete it but with the size of the tank you would need more lighting than you might need over a 60cm tank That's all I was saying. I hope you guys agree with that.


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## Kogre (17 Apr 2013)

Thanks, I don't mind at all *NanoJames* and appreciate your input. My tank will be a little on the obscure side size wise which is why I'm finding it difficult to find a good solution with little knowledge on the subject, hence asking people who know better; you guys.


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## NanoJames (17 Apr 2013)

I think Uarujoey, on youtube, did a video on how to do a DIY ballast. You could check that out? Alternatively, you could just bring a chunk of the sun and place it above your tank!


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## ceg4048 (17 Apr 2013)

NanoJames said:


> Jeez guys , I was just stating the fact that I would much rather have an AquaGro over my nano than my Arc Pod. I presumed that because Kogre seemed a pretty intelligent guy that he would understand that there is a need for CO2 and extra nutrients! Kogre, sorry to have this on your thread and feel free to get a mod to delete it but with the size of the tank you would need more lighting than you might need over a 60cm tank That's all I was saying. I hope you guys agree with that.


 
The reason we are so militant is that the world has been programmed to think that more light is always better. Whenever giving advice to newcomers about lighting we should always preface our advice with the caution that higher light intensities generally are associated with higher risk of plant health problems. There are many intelligent people who do not know this, and who experience failure as a result, therefore, intelligence has nothing to do with the success of a planted tank. Knowledge is the key. The OP seems fixated on WPG, which, for his size tank is a completely meaningless parameter, and so it would have been better if you had clarified that point instead of extolling the virtues of one system versus another. This is critical because peoples lighting choices are THE major contributor to problems in the tank. We are much too quick to talk about what WE would prefer when we really need to consider the needs and the experience of the person asking the question.

The OP also mistakenly believes that in order to grow carpet plants he requires a lot of light. This is another popular fallacy that you ignored, and it would have been better to clarify this point, that carpet plants simply grow faster, with high lighting but they require better flow and distribution in order to flourish.

To give context in response to the OP's question, ANY light is good for plant growth and health. The OP did not mention what kind of lighting came with the tank. It has been assumed that the lighting that comes with the tank is poor. It would have been better for the OP to describe in detail what kind of lighting the tank has an option for. It may in fact be poor, but we still need to assess the configuration as it may be an easier matter to modify the stock lighting instead of performing a new installation from scratch. With this in mind, one has to then think about the other issues such as cost, ergonomics, installation and power consumption.

Traditional T5 or T8 lighting systems require only ballasts, fixture and tubes. No controllers are required. The ballasts can be mounted in the fixtures or they can be separated so as to reduce weight on the fixture. There are plenty of options as this technology is mature. In post #1 it was mentioned that a series of 30 inch Arcadia tubes was preferred. If the installation is not difficult then this is as good a solution as any. Each tube will require it's own ballast, which can be remote. That would remove the weight from the fixture. Alternatively, few, longer tubes can be used depending on the fixture or hood. It's just not clear regarding the choice of fixture.

Depending on budget, hanging fixtures can also be used. The advantage here is that the fixture can be raised to control the light intensity and spread as well as the choice to leave some bulbs off. Even a metal halide hanging fixture can be used, however they tend to be more expensive and power consuming.

The LED fixtures can be used and they do not require the use of a controller, however a controller allows you to reduce the intensity and this is much more important. When you buy an LED fixture you typically get the tile, which is composed of the cluster of bulbs, as well as the power supply. The controller is an extra cost. Again, if you can afford this combination, then NanoJames contention that this is "better" is valid in the sense that it is a cleaner, neater and more controllable lighting system, and that's why it should be considered better, not because it is brighter, because massive brightness is actually a disadvantage.

So hopefully, this gives you a better general perspective on lighting systems. Apart from all that, in my opinion, what you should be more concerned about in a CO2 injected 180 gallon tank, is what level of pump strength or filtration strength you will have and how you will dissolve and distribute CO2, because that will have a greater effect on the health of your plants than what kind of lighting you have.

Cheers,


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## NanoJames (17 Apr 2013)

All I was doing was putting my point into context, giving an example! If that is not what this forum is for then I respect that, I just wasn't happy with the way I was told that I was wrong. I am learning as much as anybody else on this forum and the attitude I got could of quite easily put me right off! Luckily I don't let people get to me so I will continue to make my tank as good as it can be. Just consider that next time you make a mockery of someone. I hope you understand.


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## Kogre (17 Apr 2013)

ceg4048 said:


> The OP did not mention what kind of lighting came with the tank. It has been assumed that the lighting that comes with the tank is poor. It would have been better for the OP to describe in detail what kind of lighting the tank has an option for.


 
I actually did in my first post.

Its a brand new tank that I've yet to order. The only lighting offered was 4x22W which was pretty cruddy for almost £200 even by my own ignorant levels of knowledge, so I will opt to go with no light at all and source light myself. I have a hood as a blank slate and am seeking advice.

I'm also very open to input. I can drop the wpg the Americans tend to post about so often and I have an open mind. I'm no expert, you guys are. Its why I'm here. 

I'm ruling out hanging lighting as I simply cannot afford it.

Sorry the reason I didn't mention CO2, flow or filtration was because I know how anal forum mods can be about sticking to the subject matter of said forum, this being lighting.

I'm leaning towards two Fluval FX6 filters with pressurized CO2 injection into the inlet via an atomiser of at least one of the canisters pushed out to a spray bar. I'm looking towards AquaSoil and Eco-Complete substrate with fert tabs across two layers.

Nothing I'm planning is set in stone other than me getting a big assed tank at the moment, so thoughts, comments and critique are more than welcomed.

For the most part I've pretty much got a shopping list of everything but the lighting, hence the inquisition of opinion.

It's cool, *NJ*, I don't think *ceg* means offence, it seems to be his blunt style of explaining things, which I can appreciate.


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## Troglodyte (17 Apr 2013)

Just to add my tuppence worth to the topic. If it is price restricted and you intend to buy new, then it is normally more cost effective to go T8 or T5 and you will need the respective correct wattage ballasts to go with the choice of tube selected. When selecting a ballast unit, always try to select one that is IP67 compliant, this means that it will be waterproof not just splashproof. Ensure that all electric connections go through a Residual Circuit Breaker (RCB). If T8 there are very few IP67 compliant ballast units so the majority will have to be remotely positioned outwith the hood. If you go down the T5 route there are IP67 compliant electronic controllers that can be fitted within most hoods. One point I will add onto Ceg4048 comments is that you are only supposed to fit IP67 compliant ballast units within aquarium hoods if they are not IP67 complaint they must be remotely positioned from the hood as Cegs4048 states.


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## NanoJames (17 Apr 2013)

If you don't mind saying, what is your budget lighting wise? I'm a bit stumped for ideas but maybe someone else could help 9if they knew the rough price?  Sorry about earlier. I didn't really like being treated like that, "Wrong wrong wrong" and "It will grow more algae. Is that better?". I hope that it won't continue and we can get get on with choosing some lights!


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## Kogre (17 Apr 2013)

Cheers,* Trog*, very useful information.

Ideally I'm not looking to DIY anything, I'd prefer some kind of unit that was self contained and could hold 6-8 T5 tubes, or two units that could hold 3-4 tubes each.

I just want the tank covered appropriately and evenly from day one, more for personal preference and benefit (if any) to plants. A 68"x24" hood with four 22" tubes in the centre or corner of the hood isn't something that appeals to me, hence me asking about the footprint of the tubes being important.

As for my budget, I don't know what is a good amount to spend on lighting, but at a push could be willing to part with 400-500 quid if its really good. I quite liked the controller suggested earlier but am not sure of its compatibility with T5 tubes.


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## NanoJames (17 Apr 2013)

OK, well that's a good amount to think of, I'm sure you could light up your tank for that much! I still reckon that LED is your best bet as you could also bear in mind running costs. LEDs are going to be cheaper in the long run but most likely more expensive at the start! Your choice...


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## Troglodyte (17 Apr 2013)

Kogre,
Size of tank and budget is about right for the above options mentioned in my last post. Lighting units or aquarium illuminaires for this size of tank will be in the region of £600 upwards. So you may want to think about doing it with the Fluorescent tubes and ballast units as this option tends to be very cost effective.


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## Kogre (17 Apr 2013)

Cheers NJ, definitely something I'll read into tomorrow.

I've just read far too many mixed things about LED lighting systems which make me weary.

I already love this forum so much more than others. I'm glad I joined.


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## NanoJames (17 Apr 2013)

I will say, I haven't tried LED before but I have seen tanks running them and the plants are growing insane! TMC's 1000 ND tile might be a good one to look into but rather costly. The size of the tank is the problem! I think you should just by a nano tank!


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## Kogre (17 Apr 2013)

Haha no way man!

Maybe I'm biting more than I can chew, only time will tell.

*Trog* if you could recommend specific items to look into, I'd be really grateful.  If fluorescent tubes work out significantly cheaper than expected, I'll be happy to maybe buy some additional LED setup purely for night time aesthetics under low light conditions.


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## Troglodyte (18 Apr 2013)

Kogre,
I would look at using the forum light manufacturers supporters in the first instance and see what they are recommending for your price range. I am sure there will be a variety of solutions open to you.Then I would do a general investigation of the lighting units available. If you are looking for six foot length lighting coverage then your options drastically reduce in aqaurium fluorescent,  as this lamp length has limited support from manufacturers due to the tube damages that occur.
Once you have gained an insight as to what lighting technology you are after look through the internet wholesalers (who support this forum) to review aquarium lighting products, as it is all together this will give you a good idea of pricing comparison levels. There is nothing that beats good old fashioned product research to improve ones understanding of the lighting market.  Then if you are still requiring assistance I will be able to pm you.


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## Kogre (19 Apr 2013)

Great stuff thanks for the heads up.  I'll do just that.

*ceg*, I guess my "fixation" is born of articles on this very site and others out there that suggest good growth rates can be achieved with CO2, good flow rates, fertilization through substrate or water column and higher than 2wpg of lighting before the *ahem* uptake of naturally diffused  CO2 would need to be supplemented using artificial means of CO2 injection to the point of crazy levels of exaggeration (crazier than naturally diffused CO2 anyway). Going by a particular article on this site that i have read, sub 2wpg doesn't need additional CO2.

I'm sure this information is incorrect, after all exposure to injected CO2 would provide a burst of growth no matter the actual wpg, provided the photoperiod is of sufficient length to perhaps make up for the lack of intensity. It might end up being something I'll experiment with if I don't end up achieving over 2 wpg, but for now I'm still no further than when I first began.


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## ceg4048 (19 Apr 2013)

Well, I think you need to forget about wpg because plants do not care about wpg. Any wpg in one tank results in a completely different spectral energy level as the same wpg in a different size tank. When you have a better understanding of lighting and in planted tanks in general, you will see that the wpg is an easy number by which to gauge the light intensity. That ability to judge roughly is borne of experience. Some people move from medium sized tanks, where the wpg guidelines have a greater accuracy, to keeping large tanks or small tanks, and they find that the guidelines get them into a lot of trouble. You will find that 2wpg of T5 in a 200 gallon tank will cause no end to grief, because that is a lot of light. 400 watts of T5 will annihilate the plants unless near toxic levels of CO2, combined with awesome flow are administered. On the other hand, 60 watts of T5 over a 30 gallon tank is very manageable. Just think about having having eyes wide open looking at 400 watts from a distance of 2 or 3 feet compared to looking at 60 watts from a distance of 1 foot. There is no comparison. You cannot equate the spectral energy of the two just because some goofy arithmetic gives the same answer when you divide the numbers. Light is more complicated than that.

Check this out. These are a couple of my favorite Ollie Knott scapes. If you do the wpg calculation you'll find that they are below 2wpg and he didn't have any trouble getting nice growth.
560 liter layout by Oliver Knott ( Year 2003) Photo Gallery by Oliver Knott the aqua creator at pbase.com

560 liter layout by Oliver Knott ( Year 2003) Photo Gallery by Oliver Knott the aqua creator at pbase.com

Some people write in to ask him how he can grow plants with such low wpg, and I imagine in his mind he'd want to ask in return "How can you grow plants with such high wpg?"

If you have excellent flow and CO2, you can achieve good growth rates and at the same time avoid algae and other health related problems. Algae love high light, so if you want to spend your time cleaning algae from a 200 gallon tank then that choice is yours. And many of those people who are suggesting that high wpg is a prerequisite are the same people who are suffering problems in the tank, but, they never blame their problems on wpg. They always find some other reason.

High light requires high CO2. It requires high nutrition. It requires high maintenance. If you just have a little bit of patience, you can achieve the same results that high light produces. It will just take a little longer.

No one can _tell_ you what The Matrix is. You have to discover it for yourself....

Cheers,


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## Kogre (19 Apr 2013)

Thanks for the informative post. Those links and your information have put my mind at ease somewhat.

Of course light is complicated. I'd argue it's one of the most complicated things in the universe. 

If the lighting I end up with is shorter than the tank by a rough 8 inches, is that a big deal?


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## ceg4048 (19 Apr 2013)

Well, it's only a big deal if it doesn't look nice visually. If the edges are very dim, then what happens is that plants at the edges will grow toward the light, so they will appear to lean towards the center of the tank. Of course this can be compensated for by the scape arrangement. So for example, your scape might be better off more centrally focused with more hardscape and/or shorter plants at the edges.

If you're saying that it's eight inches short in total then does that mean 4 inches on either edge? If so then it's much less of an issue. If this were to be a suspended arrangement then raising the suspension would give a better spread out to the edges, but if it's a hood then you are locked into that geometry.

Dim edges really annoy me, but that's just a personal thing. You may not be as bothered, and maybe for you, the price is right so it may be less of a bother.

Cheers,


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## Kogre (19 Apr 2013)

Yes, 8 inches total.

The thing is dim corners _would_ bother me. I may have to rearrange (in my head, at least) the layout a little to how I originally envisioned it. Or perhaps I may need to increase my budget.

The tank does come with a hood, but I believe its optional.  

I wouldn't want for my kids to be getting their hands into the tank or putting random objects into it. This'll end up being a living room centrepiece more than anything, so I don't really want for dim corners to mar an otherwise aesthetic arrangement.

What are your opinions of LED lighting? I don't think thegreenmachine sell them as they don't believe the tech has developed enough, but I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on the matter, and also from those who like to remind us all that "light is light".


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## ceg4048 (20 Apr 2013)

Hi mate,
			As I mentioned I now use LED because of the ease of intensity control. To me that's the most important innovation to come along for us in a long while. Now we have the ability to avoid becoming slaves to intensity. We can vary both the colors and intensity to suit our mood and to avoid plant health issues. The trick for you, if you want to keep the hood, is to find LED units that can be mounted in the hood.

I think TGM have been given a raw deal. I'm just musing here, but some of the factors that people don't consider is that there are a lot of other issues associated with a new product type than just whether it works. TGM have to consider things like Quality Control, Product Support from suppliers, and as well, they have to be able to be confident about performance and they need to learn the product so that they can answer questions and offer quality advice. If they sell you something that turns out to be rubbish, then their reputation suffers, so they want to be absolutely sure that what they sell will be of high quality. Companies like ADA want their distributors to be high end, and to maintain high standards generally, so TGM have to be cautious about what they sell. If you check their website, you'll find that they do stock LEDs now however, again, their selection will be limited for the time being - probably until the ADA LED version is available.

The real problem with LEDs right now though, is that they are atrociously overpriced. You would need quite a few of those TMC tiles to fill the space. I love colors, so I would not get those particular ones because they have only white and blue. I love to simulate phases of the day by having emphasis on red's and yellows, followed by blue/white/green, then purples at the tail end of the lighting period. I like to use the colors as a paintbrush, but these color diodes are only available on the top end devices, which will easily blow the budget, especially since you'd need to buy multiple copies.

It might be easier for now to go with your original plan, but to just use bulbs of varying lengths so that you get a good spread. Why can't you mount shorter bulbs near the edges and just have the longer bulbs mounted in the center? Sorry if this is a silly question but I haven't seen the hardware you are thinking about. What I did a long time ago was to combine a series of Power Compact bulbs under the hood and to route the cables to external ballasts. This was a messy installation, and I'm not suggesting that you do that, but it seems you ought to be able to mount a combination of bulb types under the hood. Each set of bulbs, or set groups can have their individual timers, so that you have some control of intensity. If you use some PCs you might be able to mount them in a crosswise orientation near the edges so that the cover the entire edge. Then have the other normal bulbs in the center.

Cheers,


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## Kogre (20 Apr 2013)

That's given me some food for thought!

I've seen some pictures of your tank(s) across various threads and if you're giving me a thumbs up for LED lighting I may very well double my budget. It'll extend the setup time to about 6 months (in order to buy the tank itself, filters, media, heaters, lighting, substrate, CO2 and plants, and some of these things are a headache themselves, no doubt I might start asking questions about them over the coming months).

I may go with an 8 way controller and four GroBeams which work out to roughly 900 quid. If i can find that buy one get one half price deal I'll make a decent saving from that amount.

What brand lights do you use?

Cheers for your input *ceg*.


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## foxfish (20 Apr 2013)

£900!! why dont you just fit two or even three 80w T 5 tubes in the lid?
Personally I would give overhead lighting a lot more thought as you can buy really nice T5 units for very reasonable cost.
Having multiple tubes that can be independently staggered with timers would be good but, dimmable LEDs are obviously very desirable however to pay that sort of money is crazy to me!
You say you dont want to get involved with DIY but I think you could get a carpenter to make a lid & an electrician to fit 20 or so GU10 LEDs for less than £900!
I think 80w T5 bulbs are about 1.5mt long so three of them on independent timers would give you about 1.5wpg, that would be a nice set up?


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## Kogre (21 Apr 2013)

Its something I'll definitely consider.

Is there a way to get TMC controllers to work with LEDs that aren't TMC branded? If I was to make my own lighting unit I'd like the option to have automated dimmable lighting.

Im considering all options at present.


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## Andy Thurston (24 Apr 2013)

What about 4 of these or something similar


	Hagen GLO T5 Twin Starter Unit - Ballast | Starter Units | 123 Aquatics 

Be less than £400 with tubes give lots of options for lighting effects, with all the different tubes available. you would need 4 timers though 

I like the idea of tile and controller but there megabucks and way out of my reach
Maybe one day price will come down enough to get some. till then i'll have to dream


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## Kogre (24 Apr 2013)

Woah! Thanks for the link, at those prices I'm definitely tempted.

One of the things I'm not a fan of with fluorescent lighting is how its diffused, another is how it doesn't dim.  Plus I'll have some disposable cash for LED lighting in a few months.

If I was going to go for a cost effective short term project, I'd be an idiot not to go for T5 lighting. As this is a long term project, from procurement of materials, setup of equipment and plants, cycling and then getting the inhabitants for the aquarium (that'll take 2-3 months itself), I dont mind paying extra.


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## Andy Thurston (24 Apr 2013)

I understand... If i bought abrand new tank id be dissapointed with second choice of light too, especially if i could afford 1st choice a couple of months later. Youll have to do a journal when you set up. If you get it right itll be a smart tank
Cheap HO T5 fluorescent tubes - Update with photos | UK Aquatic Plant Society
These photos worth a look


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## Iain Sutherland (24 Apr 2013)

+1 to what foxfish said, £900 quid on lights now would be crazy when starting out in the hobby.  A year from now you will likely want very different equipment so keep the cost down for now.  
You can also buy T5 dimmable ballasts as well but the cost is higher. 4 x 80w T5's will be loads then you can spend the big bucks getting flow and distribution right which will really make or break a high tech tank.
High tech does not have to translate as high light, however once you know you can grow plants high tech means you have the option of high light.
You will also want to consider the fact that maintenance on a tank this size will be quite labour intensive, so slower growth via less light wont be a bad thing!  Walk then run


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## Kogre (24 Apr 2013)

Yet despite this, as previously mentioned, I still don't like the diffused effect of fluorescent tubes.

I like your comment about walking before running. Perhaps I should minimise the planted side to just a corner of the tank and hard scape the rest. That'll give me time to consider my options I guess.


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## foxfish (24 Apr 2013)

Well I think it is fair to say you have had plenty of advice from some experienced folk so the ball is in your park but I would never describe 1.5wpg or 2wpg of T5 lighting over an aquarium as diffused - more like "really bright"


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## Iain Sutherland (24 Apr 2013)

T5 will always give you a better looking light once you find the tubes that work together for the plants and fish you have, as clive mentioned none of the so called 'plant specific' led's have colour options just reef ones then its massive £££.
Really the advantage of LED is long term cost saving, if energy wasnt a consideration or initial hardware cost then i would go with the sunpower dimmable... sadly they  dont make do 4 x 80w and 8 x 80w would be ridiculous unless run at 50% or less.
Fast Light Limited ATI Sunpower T5 Dimmable


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## Andy Thurston (24 Apr 2013)

4 x 80W is listed in that link Iain. They look really smart too
Youve had the advice Korge and the choice is yours 
Leds are big bucks and it would be unwise to shell out unless youve got the determination to make it work no mater what problems you may/may not encounter
 Plant the whole tank. you can always turn lights down if plants/algae grow too quick for you to manage
Good look


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## Iain Sutherland (24 Apr 2013)

Big clown said:


> 4 x 80W is listed in that link Iain.


 
apologies, was on my phone and missed that.  Thanks andy.


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## Kogre (24 Apr 2013)

foxfish said:


> 1.5wpg or 2wpg of T5 lighting over an aquarium as diffused - more like "really bright"



Sorry, I wasn't stating that it looks diffused, but that fluorescent tubes inherently emit diffused light. I don't doubt the brightness of the tubes at all. 

Thanks for the link, Iain. That looks pretty good!


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## Troglodyte (26 Apr 2013)

I have to agree with Big clown I think you have been provided with a variety of options here. Although if selecting ballast units for an aquarium hood I would use ballasts that are IP67 rated so that I could have the option to fit within the hood and to *my* knowledge only Arcadia provide IP67 rated T5 Electronic ballasts in T5 and T8s (limited ballast for T8 sizes though). They are also a forum sponser so you kill two birds with one stone, (if you get them from ALF, (forum wholesaler sponser) or a (retailer sponser) three birds.)


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