# DIY Spraybar for Eheim Tubing



## Coys (13 Nov 2015)

I'd like to obtain some clear acrylic tubing the same diameter as the Eheim rigid tube/spraybar so I can connect it to standard Eheim flexible tubing (16/22mm), but as far as I can see that needs to have an OD of 17mm (Eheim rigid tubing is 14/17mm) and all three of the tubing suppliers I've found in links here only sell 16 or 18mm OD.

Will the Eheim flexible tubing stretch over the 18mm or am I missing something?


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## Greenfinger2 (13 Nov 2015)

Hi Coys for Eheim 16 /22 tubing you can get Acrylic clear tubing 14/18 acrylic pipe from Ebay its a tight fit but just place the tubing in hot water to soften 

I will PM a member who uses the acrylic tubing   And find out the Ebay link


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## Coys (13 Nov 2015)

Perfect. Thanks for that.


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## Greenfinger2 (13 Nov 2015)

Coys said:


> Perfect. Thanks for that.



Glad to help. PM sent will post link later


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## Greenfinger2 (14 Nov 2015)

Hi Coys,

Found this ??
http://clearplastictube.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=35&page=3

Waiting for Pm info


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## Andy Thurston (14 Nov 2015)

thats not a bad price roy we just used 16mm when we made ours

http://clearplastictube.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=35_57&product_id=153


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## Manu (14 Nov 2015)

Hi 


Greenfinger2 said:


> Hi Coys for Eheim 16 /22 tubing you can get Acrylic clear tubing 14/18 acrylic pipe from Ebay its a tight fit but just place the tubing in hot water to soften
> 
> I will PM a member who uses the acrylic tubing   And find out the Ebay link



Hi Coys, Hi Roy 

Here is the link from ebay :
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/18-14-Cle...048970?hash=item43d425b1ca:g:0TsAAOSw7ThUiD-t

Very quick dispatch and great quality 

Cheers,
Manu


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## Coys (14 Nov 2015)

Greenfinger2 said:


> Hi Coys,
> 
> Found this ??
> http://clearplastictube.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=35&page=3



Yes. Also this one: http://www.sheetplastics.co.uk/Acrylic_rod_/Acrylic_Tube/Acrylic_clear _tube 
They also sell acrylic disks for covering the ends; is superglue fish-safe BTW?

Both have similar shipping costs of £10 or so.


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## Andy Thurston (14 Nov 2015)

Coys said:


> They also sell acrylic disks for covering the ends; is superglue fish-safe BTW?


Yes lots of people use it for sticking moss to hardscape


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## Coys (14 Nov 2015)

Big clown said:


> Yes lots of people use it for sticking moss to hardscape



Cheers!


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## Greenfinger2 (14 Nov 2015)

Coys said:


> Cheers!




That's the great thing about UKAPS if one member does not know others will


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## Coys (14 Nov 2015)

Right, now that I've got a plan for the spraybars, onto the more difficult bit...

I'm going to need two of these running parallel to each other along the back; one in 18mm tube for the Eheim Pro and one in 20mm tube for an Eheim Compact+ 3000 powerhead and I'd like an elegant solution for connecting to the filter and the pump. 

The powerhead pump will (probably) be mounted inside the aquarium close to the back wall so it should be relatively easy to connect it to the spraybar with a piece of Eheim flexible tubing (unless there is a better solution). The connection to the filter is more difficult though in that it will need a couple of 90 degree bends to get through the hood at the rear and close to the back wall (at present I'm using one of the Eheim installation sets, which comes with a couple of elbows).

I can see three solutions of varying simplicity and ugliness:

(1) A series of green Eheim elbow (not quite 90 degree) connectors held together with Eheim green flexible tubing. Simple, but fairly ugly.
(2) More of a question than a solution: can Eheim flexible tubing be permanently bent with (hairdryer?) heat? If so, this would probably be slightly more elegant than (1)
(3) Do what *greenink *demonstrated here about three years ago: http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/259l-bookcase-rebirth.19287/page-3 . I assume that PVC and acrylic are the same thing? (the link seems to indicate so). This is clearly the most elegant, but also the most difficult and I suspect that I would have to purchase at least one additional length of each size tube to allow for mistakes.

Any comments, suggestions or other ideas?


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## Greenfinger2 (14 Nov 2015)

Hi Coys, 

1 as you said ugly

2 yes so long as you find something flexible to fit in side the bore of the tubing .See below 

3 This is the best method  You do not need the bending spring.There is now a flexible """" rubber ???""" thing that fits into the tubing  ?? Will have to ask Manu what it is.

 Manu made his inflow pipes  They look stunning


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## Coys (14 Nov 2015)

Thanks GF2.

Manu, any pics of your inflow pipes and any other tips? What about this rubber thing instead of  pipe bending spring?

Cheers,
Coys (Steve).


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## Greenfinger2 (14 Nov 2015)

Hi Coys,

Funny thing Manu and me were only talking about this the other day 

link


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## Manu (14 Nov 2015)

Hi Coys,

That's the method I've used and it works really well. Just be patient, keep moving the pipe over the heat gun,don't heat to fast or you'll get the acrylic to bubble...

I'll send some photos when I'm home 
Cheers, Manu 


Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk


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## Coys (14 Nov 2015)

Greenfinger2 said:


> Hi Coys,
> 
> Funny thing Manu and me were only talking about this the other day



You two really need to get out more . 

Just got home from a heavy night - I'll check it out in the morning.


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## Coys (15 Nov 2015)

Manu,
Thanks for the video link; just viewed it and it looks relatively simple. It looks like the largest available silicone tube is 12-13mm. Is that OK for the 14/18mm acrylic? What about the 16/20?

Looking forward to seeing some pics of your finished tubes too.

Steve.


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## Manu (15 Nov 2015)

Coys said:


> Manu,
> Thanks for the video link; just viewed it and it looks relatively simple. It looks like the largest available silicone tube is 12-13mm. Is that OK for the 14/18mm acrylic? What about the 16/20?
> 
> Looking forward to seeing some pics of your finished tubes too.
> ...



Hi Steve,
The best seems to be silicone cord, something like that:
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=221819561761&alt=web

This is 13mm but 12mm would do as well. 

What do you mean with: "what about 16/20?"
I'll send some pictures tomorrow 

Let me know if you need more help.
Cheers, 
Manu


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## Coys (16 Nov 2015)

Manu said:


> What do you mean with: "what about 16/20?"



I'll probably need to bend some 16/20 tube for the outlet from the Eheim Compact+ 3000 pump (which takes Eheim 19/27 tubing) I plan to install to increase the water movement. If that's not so easy I'll just have to use the green Eheim flexible stuff.


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## Manu (16 Nov 2015)

Hi Steve,

here is a link to some 16/20 tube:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-16-Cle...539893?hash=item46131034b5:g:HSQAAOSwEeFVS4Uv

Here you can get a 14mm silicone cord:
https://www.polymax.co.uk/rubber-cords/silicone-cord-white14mm60shore

And that's interesting thread where someone is hunting for silicone cord:
http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/silicone-cord.34831/

Let me know how you get on with it 

Pictures of my outflows in the following post.

Cheers,
Manu


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## Manu (16 Nov 2015)

Here are the pictures:








Quite a few bends due to the tank being partly recessed in a wall 

Cheers,
Manu


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## zozo (16 Nov 2015)

If the silicon cord is not the correct diameter (smaller) you'll have a air pocket in the pipe, when you warm it up and bend it there is risks the pipe will wrinkle in the inside bend..

If you can't get the proper diameter cord you could also do it the old fashion way with 2 plugs and fine dry sand. Note "DRY" sand, this means completely dry, so warm the sand up first or put it on the heating for a night, so all moist is completely out. Put a plug in the pipe, like cork, rubber, wood, doesn't matter as long as the fit is tight. Fill the pipe with the sand and tap it and see the sand go down, keep tapping it till it doesn't sink in anymore. If it is full leaf space for the other plug at the other end. Make sure there is no air pocket beneat the plug.. 

Heat the pipe and bend it. If the sand isn't dry, the moist in the sand will evaporate and pressure will build up and the plug will probably pop off or you get an air pocket again and wrinkles..

Succes.


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## zozo (16 Nov 2015)

Manu said:


> Here are the pictures:
> 
> View attachment 77730View attachment 77731
> 
> ...



Wonderfully done, nice work..


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## Coys (17 Nov 2015)

Thanks Manu,
Amazing bends!
So, are you recommending 12-13mm cord for 14/18mm acrylic tube and 14mm for the 16/20 or is the 14mm cord for the 14/18 tube? I notice that the tolerance is ±1mm so I assume that the exact diameter may be too tight.

I also found that the same company does a 15mm Silicone _Sponge _cord . Is that OK too or are they completely different properties?

Steve.


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## Manu (17 Nov 2015)

Hi Steve,

Zozo is right, you don't want too much "play" as you won't get a neat finish but you can't use a silicone cord that will be the same size than the inside diameter of your tube. When I did mine, I ordered a 10mm cord for a 10/14 tube and I couldn't get it in inside at first. I had to use a potato peeler to reduce the diameter  And then, I put a small screw at one end of the silicone cord, attached some cooking thread or string and pulled the silicone instead of pushing it. Pushing the cord make it expand and blocks it, pulling it make it stretch and it slides better. Be sure your screw is small enough but also well fixed to the cord.
In your case I would go for a 13mm cord and a 15mm. Sorry, I can't comment on the silicone sponge cord, I'm that of an expert 
If not, order a small piece of tube and try Zozo's method with the salt. It will be much cheaper!

Cheers,
Manu


Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk


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## JamieB (17 Nov 2015)

Silicone sponge cord should be able to withstand 200C.. I believe it's used in surgical sealing for high temps


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## Coys (17 Nov 2015)

Thanks for the great advice Manu and Zozo. 

Thinking about it again I reckon that I can probably get away with a (almost) straight connection with a short length of Eheim flexible hose to the Eheim 3000 pump anyway. Speaking of which, does anyone make clear flexible tubing for Eheim kit rather than that green stuff?

Steve.


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## Greenfinger2 (17 Nov 2015)

Hi Coys,
Clear tubing link 
https://www.google.co.uk/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=clear flexible tubing


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## Coys (17 Nov 2015)

Cheers!

Time to get ordering I think.


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## zozo (17 Nov 2015)

Use some silicone spray or teflon spray, than it probably will slide in perfectly without much trouble. Spray it inside the tube and not on the cord.. Try not get to much on your hands or they will becomme to slippery as well to get grip. A little bit of dishwashing soap can do too.. 
I'm an old fashion pipe fitter/plummer. Bending tubes and getting tight fits together is a daily propperty in that bussines.. 

I would go for the sand option.. But thats just me. Because im experienced with it..


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## Coys (2 Dec 2015)

Hi again!
Almost there. I've got the tubing (from here since they were the only place I could find that supplies 2 metre lengths), silicone cord (£2 from eBay), clear end caps (eBay again) and a heat gun (Screwfix). Before I start bending and drilling a couple more questions though:

- Recommended diameter of holes?
- Quantity of holes in the spraybar from the Eheim: the same number as on the original Eheim spraybar (nine), but spaced out over the 1m or so length?
- Angle of holes? Horizontal (across water surface back to front), 20-30 degrees down, 45 degrees down, other? I was thinking of something like about 25 degrees for the majority, with 3-4 horizontal holes to give good surface movement.

Cheers, Steve.


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## zozo (2 Dec 2015)

I note on drilling acrylic, you might ask the seller first what your dealing with.. Casted GS Acrylic or Extruded XT Acrylic.. The last one is not particularly fond of drilling and cutting and easily to crack in the proces. If you drill holes, no matter which version start as small as pissible and go bigger is steps no larger then 2 mm at a time. DO not apply force just guide the drill use the weight of the machine. Make sure the drill doesn't get to hot, pause or cool the drill after each hole. The drill always gets hot after 3 holes you might melt acrylic instead of cutting it and you''l get a acrylic film on the drill, which could be sticky while drilling or hard while cooled. 

Best results you will get with looping the spraybar, so connect each end and both hoses to the T should have smae lenght and route..  If only connected to one and pump pressure is  more of an issue..


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## Coys (2 Dec 2015)

It's extruded!


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## zozo (2 Dec 2015)

Coys said:


> It's extruded!



Not impossible, just more difficult, i made the internal deviders from my sump out of 2mm XT sheet and drilled about a 100 holes and only 8 cracks. Just be verry gentle and carefull, up 3 mm drill goes relatively good don't apply to much pressuse with any form of cutting. If you use force it definitely will crack easily.

From the technical point of view, so you know why.. XT is heated acrylic pressed and pulled through a mold (like steamrollers) during production, than when it cures the moleculair structure isn't alined there it has areas with internal tensions thats why it cracks so easily. GS is heated to a almost liquid pourable state and casted, then the moleculair structure is more alined and therefor stronger and less internal tensions..

Good luck..


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## Coys (6 May 2016)

I made and installed the spraybars about two months ago and thought an update was due. Drilling and bending went well apart from some surface bubbling (any advice how to avoid in future?). 

Flow is now amazing, even with the Eheim 3000 pump on minimum flow; the fish seemed a bit confused at first and avoided the current but soon got used to it and now swim freely through it. One big advantage appears to be the almost total lack of visible fish waste on the bottom, which I used to hoover up in vast quantities during water changes; I can only assume that the improved circular current now pushes it towards the filter intake and into the filter, which clearly wasn't happening before. 

The only issues I've had is that the clear tubes very quickly became opaque with a buildup of dirt and that the holes can get clogged with small pieces of plant material. During today's water change I fixed that by sawing off the ends (which I had permanently sealed with acrylic disks), cleaning the tubes with a long flexible cleaning brush and finally replacing the glued disks with rubber bungs sourced cheaply from eBay.


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## zozo (6 May 2016)

Coys said:


> bending went well apart from some surface bubbling (any advice how to avoid in future?).



Means it was to hot..  I do not remember the excact number but the temperatur acrylic is rather low, a bit over 100°C.. Look it up and put the pipe in an (electrical) oven set to the correct temperatur so it can't overheat. If you use that silicone inner tube to prevent kinks this material has a far hihger melting point so it can be in there while in the oven.

If that's not an option the tube could be to long for the oven and you need to use a heating gun or torch then just don't heat to long at one point.

First mark the area of the bend, usualy to get a rather nice short radius with bending tubes with heat. Then mark the lenght desired and count from that point 2 x tube diameter backward and mark it, and again count 1x tube diamter forward from the lenght mark.

Example - If you have 16mm tubing and need 30cm lengt mark the tube at 30cm.. Now count 2x16=32mm back and mark it.. Go back to first 30cm mark and count 16mm forward and mark it.. Now you have an area of 48mm lenght marked which is the radius of the bend.. Now place the tube an the table with tath area sticking over the edge, now you can roll the pipe back and fort over its complete diameter with a flat hand on the pipe.

Heat only the 48mm marked area while rolling the tube back and fort with swinging the heater or flame over the tube withing the marks.. Not overheating it is a matter of experience and practice, the shorter the heater or flame is at the tube the hoter it gets. So keep the correct distance and keep a swinging motion and rolling the tube all the time, never stop at one place. If you do this long enough the marked area will be evenly heated all around over the proper lenght.. Once this is the case you will see the tube bend by the force of gravity, since that part stick over the tables edge and the angle of the bend stays the same while rolling it. At that point you can stop heating and bend the tube in the desired angle and wait for it to cool. Of you made a 90° bend and you did all correct you will have excact 30cm from tubes edge to centre tube diameter of the 90° bend.

I wish i could make a video for you, but i can't.. So this is the best i can do (explain).. 

Happy bending and succes next time..  I guess it will take a few bends and burned pipes before you get a hang of it. I haven't done it in years and probably will screw up a few before i got it again.
.


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## Coys (6 May 2016)

zozo said:


> Means it was to hot..



Yeah, I assumed that was the case; I think that the heatgun was more like a deathray and would probably have melted lead . Oh well, it was a good first attempt thanks to all of the help on this forum . 

I'll probably have another go later in the year to neaten it up, but in the meantime it's fine.


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## zozo (6 May 2016)

Using such a little butane pencil gass torch is actualy much more easy.. Give it a go next time.. Just keep it swinging.. DO it while listening a chubby checker track.


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## Coys (6 May 2016)

zozo said:


> DO it while listening a chubby checker track.



Ah, listening to Led Zeppelin IV was my big mistake then Zozo...


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## zozo (6 May 2016)

Yeah you got to keep the pace not to get blisters..


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## BexHaystack (8 May 2016)

Coys said:


> with rubber bungs sourced cheaply from eBay.



I'm looking for some plugs for a diy spraybar, would you be able to share the link?

Thanks


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## Coys (9 May 2016)

BexHaystack said:


> I'm looking for some plugs for a diy spraybar, would you be able to share the link?



Of course: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311491823...49&var=610516789314&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


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## BexHaystack (9 May 2016)

Thanks! Did you end up using the extruded version of the pipe in the end?


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## Coys (9 May 2016)

BexHaystack said:


> Thanks! Did you end up using the extruded version of the pipe in the end?



Yes I did, and drilling it was not a problem (no cracks at all), although I did use a small high speed modeller's drill rather than a typical heavy duty DIY drill/driver type; whether or not that made a difference I have no idea.

In the end the drilling and bending was pretty easy, athough as I mentioned earlier I did overheat the tube and caused it to bubble somewhat. I'll try again later and hopefully do a better job; on reflection I wish that I'd bought double the amount of tube to allow for mistakes as the two 2m lengths of tube cost a combined £11 and the shipping alone £20  .

The one other thing to be aware of is that the tube is shiny and, despite my best efforts to a) rough it up a bit with sandpaper and b) heat the hose before inserting the tube into it as far as possible, it did slip off when i was tidying up the pipework resulting in a bit of panic when water started appearing from underneath the aquarium . A few jubillee clips soon put paid to the chances of a recurrence of that!

Good luck!


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## BexHaystack (9 May 2016)

Great, thanks for the tips


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