# Co2 Problems / Algae



## 13r0wn7 (22 May 2014)

My Tank: 
150L
Med Planted
External Filter (JBL 1501)
Temp 25

About 2 months ago I fitted an inline atomizer on my outflow and at first I had working pressure problems.
So I bought a dual stage reg to solve this problem.
Once that was fixed I set my bubble counter to 1 BPS and kept it running at that for about 1 month and I could visually see tiny bubbles going around the tank fine although my dc has never changed from blue!

The main reason for looking into this deeper is because I am now suffering from small amounts off Black Beard Algae (BBA) and a bloom of Staghorn Algae all over my plants leafs.
I have read up on these types and they are all leaning on CO2 deficency and ferts.
So what i did was turned up my Bubble Counter to 3 BPS and lights only on for 6 hours a day also upped my fert dosage.
I am very concerned that my drop checker has still never changed from blue (I have tried 3 different solutions and 1 pre made from Co2 Art) which makes no difference and i dare not to increase more then this.
There is more then enough flow you can see all the bubbles going around the tank. I have even invested in a power head to boost this just in-case. I am very confused to what is going on.
I never had any algae problems when i was using a simple diffuser.
I just cannot get my head around that its the atomizer as i can see the bubbles circulating the tank.

Any advice would be appreciated


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## John S (22 May 2014)

It sounds like you will need to increase your Co2. 3Bps on a tank that size is on the low side. If you don't trust the drop checker then get a PH pen.

What's your lighting set up and duration?

I'd also start manually removing the algae as soon as you can.


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## 13r0wn7 (22 May 2014)

Whats the average Bps on a tank my size?
Yes i have trimmed all the infected leaves but it still appearing.. 
I have a PH pen but i do not have any trust in what it reads, always says something different.. even tap water readings change withing a 2 hour period.


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## X3NiTH (22 May 2014)

Bps is pretty much irrelevant, because gas aperture sizes in bubble checkers are not all the same size, its the drop checker and the pH that will tell you if have enough co2. Visible gas bubbles in the tank will head for the surface and degas, you need as much fizz in the tank that allows saturation into the water before it has a chance to degas. The pH pen craziness you see with tap water is the co2 under mains pressure degassing and raising the pH in the glass over a couple of hours. An inline reactor will give you saturation without the fizz as the fizz is a bit of a distraction as to how much co2 there actually is available to plants.


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## 13r0wn7 (22 May 2014)

So what would say is better then? Inline atomizer or a reactor? 
Or would you use them together? I take it this also goes in between the outlet hose?


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## X3NiTH (22 May 2014)

Both together, that's how I run it. I spent ages reading up on reactors and found a really long 40 odd page thread over on the BarrReport that goes into good detail and Foxfish has a thread here in the build section. You can do it cheap with a 10" housing but for maximum saturation a 20" is best (I elected for the 20" because I had the space and didn't want to risk the inline atomiser overwhelming a 10", belts and braces approach really). 

I'm all inline like this -  Tank Out (16/22hose) > Eheim250T In (16/22hose) > Eheim250T Out (16/22hose) > Aquamedic 9wUV (16/22hose) > Inline Atomiser (16/22hose) > 2metres of 16/22 hose > Eheim 16/22 DoubleTap > 20" Water Filter Housing (1"BSP Inlet/Outlet) > Eheim 16/22 DoubleTap > 1metre 13mm hose > Tank In 13mm Glass Crook.

Reactor on its own.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7262/13903132322_16f1cf3da6_b.jpg

All plumbed in.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7382/13830148853_4d3b6d9b8e_b.jpg

Completely eliminates the fizz and let's you concentrate on the pH and the drop checker.


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## 13r0wn7 (22 May 2014)

Ahh right thanks for that buddy, I will defiantly look into this and maybe add


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## foxfish (22 May 2014)

I wonder why your PH pen is not working for you?
Checking the PH is a good way to check against your bubble count, you should get a measurable PH drop by increasing the BC.
In line atomisers work extremely well if set up correctly so you shouldn't need an reactor to get fantastic results!
Tap water can change its PH considerably as tap water often contains Co2.
Try checking the ph pen using a glass of water that has been standing for a hour or so.


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## 13r0wn7 (22 May 2014)

I will try that.
I have bought 2 (the yellow sticks) and they both act the same way. For example before I tested the  tank I tested the water and it was at 7.6 which is normal, then I would do my tank which comes at 7.8 usually...  (I do have very hard water) then a few hours later I will check the tap water and get a reading like 7.2 and then the tank would read exactly the same.
Just don't Believe the tap water would match it. That just made me loose all confidence. 
I will try and let the water stand. 
I have my inline on the outtake because I don't want my filter to start making noise which I Believe it will. Maybe I may have to as I Believe it would have a effect like a reactor but maybe not as effective.? 


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## foxfish (22 May 2014)

There is a strong belief that the micro bubbles, produced by an atomiser, is the most effective way for the plants to take up the CO2.
The down side is the 'mist'.. if you don't mind the mist effect then you have no need to use a reactor or re position the device.


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## tim (22 May 2014)

Are you calibrating your ph pens ?


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## 13r0wn7 (22 May 2014)

Well I calibrated it against
The tap water using the monthly water results...? 


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## tim (22 May 2014)

I don't own one but have read you need calibration fluid to set them, may be why you are getting fluctuating/ inaccurate readings, I think you can get the calibration fluids on eBay.


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## 13r0wn7 (22 May 2014)

I will have a look into that mate 


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## Alje (23 May 2014)

Mate, best advice, read up on all aspects of CO2 use in the aquarium, decide on what method of pH testing suits you/your tank and learn how to do it correctly, then you will have faith in it and yourself.
A decent properly calibrated electronic pH pen couldn't be any simpler to use, no more difficult than a home pregnancy test and you dont even have to drop your pants.
Then again a drop checker couldn't be much simpler, see  http://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/co2-measurement-using-a-drop-checker.467/

Read through EVERY thread in the Carbon Dioxide CO2 section for starters, I have, and I'm far from being an expert on the subject (or any subject come to think of it) then go through Algae, Fert dosing and Lighting sections. I've found posts by ceg4048 particularly informative/educational .
There is so much information available in this forum, Barr report, and other planted tank forums and It won't cost you anything but your time, and there's a chance you may actually save money in the long run (livestock, ferts, equipment and CO2)
Hang in there, algae sucks and we all have/have had problems of our own, but knowledge is power so get reading and you WILL learn how to beat it YOURSELF.


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## cookiegood (30 May 2014)

Algae is not a disease for god's sake...

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## Iain Sutherland (30 May 2014)

cookiegood said:


> Algae is not a disease for god's sake...
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk


How very helpful.
Auto correct police have arrived.


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## cookiegood (30 May 2014)

Thank you, glad to be of help. 

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## cookiegood (15 Jun 2014)

For your viewing pleasure, I present to you the back of my tank. Filthy, oh yea, that's how I like it. 



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