# Eheim Pro 3 - worst Eheim ever?



## flygja

Caution, I'm ranting. I bought two second hand 2080s some months ago. Both of them immediately leaked, the known issue of water seeping into the head. Local distributor in Malaysia would not honor 3 year warranty and I had to pay to get one of them fixed, the other was salvagable by generously applying petroleum jelly and not using the primer.

Last week there was a power outage, about 5 hours in length. Both 2080s leaked about 12 litres of water onto my floor. Same problem of water seeping into the head. Had to open the head and tip it around to clear it. I have another tank with an Eheim 2217 and it didn't leak a single drop. Granted it was on a smaller tank of 60L so the pressure on the pipes might not be as great, but the Pro 3 is supposed to be able to handle it!

Energy company said there will be another outage today, lasting up to 9 hours. So I opened up both 2080s to expose the canister to air for O2 exchange for the bacteria. Tap catridge unit placed in buckets in case they leak.

How does one prevent a Pro 3 from leaking during a power outage? 

One thing is for sure - I'm never buying any Eheim filter except for the classic ones from now on. Pissed me off enough in the past few months. Bad design, bad support from local distributor.


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## Nathaniel Whiteside

You check the seals hadn't perished?


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## flygja

Seals are fine. The filter doesn't leak during normal operation. Its the usual problem of water getting into the head, previously it was theorised through the primer mechanism.


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## Richard

Oh blimey,I've just bought a Pro3 350,no problems so far but haven't suffered any power cuts either,seems a good filter to me but I am an unlucky so and so.


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## hunter001

flygja said:


> Seals are fine. The filter doesn't leak during normal operation. Its the usual problem of water getting into the head, previously it was theorised through the primer mechanism.


 

Your probably right on that one, i bought 2x 2080's cheap as they were both leaking from inside the head unit. I discovered it was leaking from the priming mechanism, i tried lubricating it but it still leaked. In the end i made a silicon gasket to sit under the plastic part that holds down the rubber priming ring. The extra pressure it creates when you screw the plastic part down tight 'seems' to of stopped it leaking. I've not got round to doing the other one yet but thats what i'll be doing to that one too. I can get some pics up when i do the next one if you'd like, the same fix might work for you as well.


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## flygja

hunter001 said:


> I can get some pics up when i do the next one if you'd like, the same fix might work for you as well.


Some pics would be useful! One of my 2080s was fixed by applying petroleum jelly generously on the primer rubber seals. The other had its intake/output cartridge replaced in order to stop the leaking. These leaks are during operation, still need to resolve the problem of leaking when the power goes out.

My usual method is to sit the canister in a shallow bucket or tray, which would help hold the water if it leaks. My 2217 currently sits in a tray that's about 3 inches tall. But there isn't a tray big enough to accomodate the monstrous 2080s under my cabinet. I have to tilt the canister in order to fit it under my cabinet, so there's no way I can get it into a tray even if there is one.


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## sanj

In my experience these have been good filters. I have some running since 2008 with no problems. I could only think on the lines of Nathaniel in regards to seals...I'm stumped.


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## flygja

Sanj, it seems like there was a bad batch of them. I've been reading reports all over the internet about Pro 3 filters leaking. The Pro 2 with a center priming button also leaked water into the head from the priming mechanism. If it works then it works well, if it doesn't work then it will never work well apparently. I checked the little O rings on the in/out cartridge and it looks fine too. 

Have you had a power outage?


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## GlenFish

I'm running a 2075 model and so far have only good to say about it. Primer works well, flow rate doesn't drop off like the older eheims seemed to do, and loads of media capacity..... Of course if it were to leak all my praise would go out of the window!


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## flygja

GlenFish said:


> I'm running a 2075 model and so far have only good to say about it. Primer works well, flow rate doesn't drop off like the older eheims seemed to do, and loads of media capacity..... Of course if it were to leak all my praise would go out of the window!


 
I hope it doesn't!


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## viktorlantos

This is a general problem with Pro3 filters, but i have to say head leaking was there with pro 2 too and pro1 at the electric cables.
From all the pro3 series 2080s are the best ones. Had the less guarantee issues with it also we never get a chance to see broken flow switchers what we see common with 2071,2073,2075

Looks like most of the priming filters hurt by this and seeing our client feedback looks like the more problem comes from areas where the water hardness is larger.

They are great filters, but i could not figure out why the hell they not fixing it forever!


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## flygja

So about a year and a half later, one of the 2080s that I have is now leaking badly. About a minute after being turned on, it will start flooding the floor. Set it aside for a month or so out of anger disappointment and went back to it today. I took the head apart and found this...




Looks like the head has been filling with water so badly that all the metal parts in it are completely rusted.
Very disappointing to see that the screws used were normal metal screws and not stainless steel. Even worse, the two black ones on the left look like normal wood screws to me.




You can see here how the base of the primer mechanism spring is completely rusted.








The motor and primer mechanism are actually one unit. When you press the priming button down, the whole motor moves up and down. The rubber gasket is held by two sets of screws. The inner lip of the rubber is held by 4 screws under the pump head (i.e. inside the canister itself). Thankfully these are real stainless steel screws. Sorry about the icky pic.




The outer lip is held in place by these 4 screws inside the pump head. Completely rusted off. Considering that the screws are about an inch above the bottom of the pump head, there must constantly been about an inch of standing water in the pump head.




This is with the plastic housing that holds the motor removed. 




3 of the 4 screws weren't holding the plastic piece in place anymore, which means the rubber seal wasn't effectively doing its job. I think this is where the problem is. So now that the screw heads have completely disintegrated, I guess I'll need to drill out the remains of the screws. The screws themselves are self-threading screws, so I have to get the drill bit size right and get the exact replacement too. I hope that the sealing doesn't depend on the primer spring, since that has lost its lower coils now. Might glue a piece of acrylic tubing in place of the spring to stop it from being pressed anymore. 

So much for German engineering.


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## viktorlantos

Wow this looks really bad


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## OllieNZ

You won't drill those out easily.  The drill will want to wander off into the plastic, you'd have to use a very short drill and a drill press. There should be just enough sticking out to get a set of needle nose vise-grips on there and wind them out.


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## flygja

That's a problem. I don't have a drill press. I'll try to use a pair of needle nose pliers to wind them out. It'll be hard because the screws are self-threading. Gonna use lots of WD40


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## OllieNZ

You'll struggle to get enough grip with normal needle nose pliers, if you haven't got vise-grips I'd try a set of normal pliers as they will grip better. If they are directly into the plastic then they should come out fairly easily without wd40, all the wd40 will do is make the screw more difficult to grip.


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## Martin in Holland

Jee..I'm happy I bought my cheap Atman filters, they are still happily working for over 2 years.


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## parotet

I've changed my Eheims for JBLs Greenline. Very low consumption and larger filter volume compared to Eheim. Only classic line from Eheim seems to last for decades... 
Sorry to hear from your problem

Jordi


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## jimwalsh

my 2078 has just done this as well.

might go for a JBL greenline


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## John S

jimwalsh said:


> my 2078 has just done this as well.
> 
> might go for a JBL greenline



Primer seal replaced twice in 4 years on my 2078 - I even avoided using the primer where possible.


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## GTL_UK

I had my 2078 for 2weeks and switched to jbl e1501 - 100x better and cheaper 

Thanks


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## flygja

Looks like I can't drill out the screws. Ollie was right, the drill runs without a drill press since the plastic holes are a lot softer. So I'm thinking of hotgluing the plastic pieces together. Hopefully it can keep the seal watertight. I'll be using a lot of Vaseline on the seals.

My other 2080 was also leaking since Friday. It has leaked before, same issue with primer. So I spent about 2 hours yesterday applying Vaseline to all the rubber seals, rubber rings and the in/out cartridge tap. I don't wanna take the head apart and end up with two leaky 2080s.


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## alto

Try to find silicon grease - the "peti ether" component of Vaseline eats away at the seals, so unless you replace them, the rubber degrades (of course you can just replace them annually   ) 

Tough luck on this whole situation - incredible that *Eheim* seems not to care a bit that their *authorized* representatives don't stand behind their warranty ...
I cant get parts as the country rep disappeared years ago, *Eheim Germany* won't send me any for some incomprehensible reason insisting that I need to obtain them through my authorised (country) dealer, so I enquire who that might be, oh there isn't one ...   

I now have 3 "retired" *Eheim Filters *


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## Martin in Holland

Nice after service......NOT!


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## viktorlantos

Prof 4 serie is coming out this week or so. Will that be a fix or the problems continue? Prof 3 series will go out at the same time.

Priming is the worst innovation on modern filters not just on eheim unfortunately


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## 5678

GTL_UK said:


> I had my 2078 for 2weeks and switched to jbl e1501 - 100x better and cheaper
> 
> Thanks



I've just set up a Pro3 250 (not sure on the model number!) and am not especially impressed. I have an e701 on my other tank and am now kicking myself for not buying another JBL instead! I can see the 250 being replaced with an e901 quite quickly.


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## Martin in Holland

viktorlantos said:


> Priming is the worst innovation on modern filters not just on eheim unfortunately


but it's damn easy to get your filter to start.  Hopefully they can improve this.


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## parotet

viktorlantos said:


> Priming is the worst innovation on modern filters not just on eheim unfortunately


Yup, I try not to use them... when you press these buttons it looks like filters don't like it. I mean, in general terms most canisters are very quite solid, but priming buttons are IMO the most sensitive parts. All my filters have now priming devices but I do it the traditional way: suck through the tubing and shake the canister to release the air bubbles. It works...

Jordi


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## OllieNZ

flygja said:


> Looks like I can't drill out the screws. Ollie was right, the drill runs without a drill press since the plastic holes are a lot softer. So I'm thinking of hotgluing the plastic pieces together. Hopefully it can keep the seal watertight. I'll be using a lot of Vaseline on the seals.
> 
> My other 2080 was also leaking since Friday. It has leaked before, same issue with primer. So I spent about 2 hours yesterday applying Vaseline to all the rubber seals, rubber rings and the in/out cartridge tap. I don't wanna take the head apart and end up with two leaky 2080s.


I'd try plastic cement rather than hot glue, and as suggested silicone grease will be better for the seals. If you can get your hands on dow corning dc4 or equivalent would be good as I've found a lot of the cheaper stuff tends to be very runny


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## flygja

parotet said:


> Yup, I try not to use them... when you press these buttons it looks like filters don't like it. I mean, in general terms most canisters are very quite solid, but priming buttons are IMO the most sensitive parts. All my filters have now priming devices but I do it the traditional way: suck through the tubing and shake the canister to release the air bubbles. It works...
> 
> Jordi


My first ever canister filter is a Fluval 103, followed by Eheim 2215. At that time I seriously thought priming was a b!tch and usually filled up my canister full of water instead of trying to prime them empty like the instructions provided. Especially when I had a reactor and a chiller inline, as these create all sorts of weird pressure imbalances (I mean weird to me, but might be obvious to some). I vowed that my next filter would have a primer. I got a Fluval 405 which primed for a while then stopped priming as the plastic suction cup primer thing kinda lost its shape. Thankfully it didn't leak. Now after these Pro 3s, I think primers are the devils underpants!



OllieNZ said:


> I'd try plastic cement rather than hot glue, and as suggested silicone grease will be better for the seals. If you can get your hands on dow corning dc4 or equivalent would be good as I've found a lot of the cheaper stuff tends to be very runny


Can the plastic cement be removed? I was thinking hotglue rather than superglue so that just in case I need to remove the plastic housing to change the rubber seal, I still can scrape away at the hotglue. then again, I checked the spareparts guide and Eheim doesn't actually sell that rubber seal.

If I don't fix this, then the filter is as good as dead. Eheim doesn't sell a replacement pump head since its probably a major portion of the cost.



alto said:


> Try to find silicon grease - the "peti ether" component of Vaseline eats away at the seals, so unless you replace them, the rubber degrades (of course you can just replace them annually   )
> 
> Tough luck on this whole situation - incredible that *Eheim* seems not to care a bit that their *authorized* representatives don't stand behind their warranty ...
> I cant get parts as the country rep disappeared years ago, *Eheim Germany* won't send me any for some incomprehensible reason insisting that I need to obtain them through my authorised (country) dealer, so I enquire who that might be, oh there isn't one ...
> 
> I now have 3 "retired" *Eheim Filters *


Sorry to hear about your experience with Eheim filters. The local distributor here doesn't seem to care much at all about customer service. Leaking? O-rings, just buy them and replace them. Service? Forget it. They're just like those broadband internet call centres that always ask "Is your DSL light on?" or "Have you plugged in the phone line". They should be asking whats my skill level first, then don't ask me to try stupid things like turning it on and off again!


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## OllieNZ

flygja said:


> Can the plastic cement be removed? I was thinking hotglue rather than superglue so that just in case I need to remove the plastic housing to change the rubber seal, I still can scrape away at the hotglue. then again, I checked the spareparts guide and Eheim doesn't actually sell that rubber seal.


No it is a solvent that will literally melt the 2 pieces of plastic back together. I'd be concerned about hot gluing something that could dump half my tank on the floor....


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## dw1305

Hi all,





parotet said:


> Only classic line from Eheim seems to last for decades...





viktorlantos said:


> Priming is the worst innovation on modern filters not just on eheim unfortunately





parotet said:


> suck through the tubing and shake the canister to release the air bubbles. It works...


 I like simple filters as well, you don't need a priming button, they are just a source of of problems. 

I use the traditional "Jordi" method for filling the filter, except after I've started the flow of water, I blew back through the outlet hose and filter until air bubbles come out of the intake, then I start the suction again (by sucking on the hose). 

This drastically reduces the amount of trapped air in the filter body.

cheers Darrel


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## Martin in Holland

I stop my filters every week when doing WC, but don't need to prime the filter when I start them up again. I found that when the hoses and filters are filled with water its easy to start even when I've cleaned the filters (I just pore water in them first)....sometimes the filter sucks in some air (if I started it up a bit to early when WC) and that's when I use the prime button.
After how many month/years does your priming button starts giving you trouble? (mine still ok after more than 2 years)


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## flygja

I think my Fluval 405's priming button failed after a year or so. Also had to use their intake tube as it has a one-way floaty ball type valve in it, so can't be used with skimmers or lily pipes. I think you also use reactors and a chiller, I always find that priming the filter when its empty, even when tubes, reactor and chiller are filled with water, has a 50-50 success rate. I had to raise the outlet above the water line, open the outlet valves first so all the water from the outlet pipes flow into the canister, then open the inlet valves and hope it starts sucking through the inlet. Sometimes it starts sucking through the outlet instead, causing air to purge through the inlet tubes. Sometimes it just sticks. Then its a random process of upturning the reactor, lifting the chiller higher than the canister, sucking on the outlet....


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## Brian Murphy

Never had an eheim filter but always wanted to get a pro3 thermo 1200xl after hearing they are the boss .... maybe not after reading this !


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## flygja

Brian Murphy said:


> Never had an eheim filter but always wanted to get a pro3 thermo 1200xl after hearing they are the boss .... maybe not after reading this !


Honestly besides the priming function and the fact that it has 2 inlets and 1 outlet, they're quite solid as filters. Mega power even fully load with media. If you were to get one, DON'T use the primer. I would suggest you check the head regularly if water's been getting into it. I've seen some posts of folks in the US and Europe getting a free replacement head if it leaks, so warranty and support are in your favour over there. As for the 2 inlets, I've always had problems where any pressure imbalances between the two will cause the filter to only suck on one. Can be resolved by turning the filter on, then clamping one inlet tube (or just bend in half) so it starts sucking from the other one that has air in it. 

Moment of truth this weekend, gonna hotglue the plastic housing together, let the pump run in the bathroom or outside and see if it leaks. If hotgluing doesn't work, then out comes the superglue as last ditch before it gets binned effort.


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## andyone

I've had similar issues with my Pro 3 Thermo in terms of leaks from the head and soaking of the dinning room floor, non priming and have had the electronic thermostat fail twice in the last 5 or so years. 

I now simply fill the filter full of water which see's it start 100% and carry a spare set of seals covered in silicone grease on fitting. Can't complain regarding customer care from Ehiem who have in fairness authorized their UK agent (John Allen Aquariums) to sort the thermostat/leak issue free of charge well outside the warranty on both occasions. That said I suspect the head has leaked through the priming/motor seals and got into the electronics.

After reading this post and others I suspect there is an inherent design fault made worse using poor quality materials. Given the price of these filters I was hoping given Ehiem's reputation for the longevity of their filters for it to be a one off purchase with good long term parts availability. I now suspect it will fail again and either undergo major "surgery" as above or end up in the bin which will see me looking at other cheaper alternatives.

Shame as its otherwise a cracking filter, lets hope Ehiem have also done some scoping of the issues and designed them out of the Pro 4 but given it's move towards yet more technology in its design (ie link it to your PC) why on earth would you want to?!?! We just want a decent water turn over, ease of use/maintenance and above all reliability with a solid build. Old school but when has electricity and water ever got on well together?


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## John S

Agreed Andy. If it wasn't for the customer service from John Allen Aquariums I probably wouldn't still have my 2078.


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## flygja

Well that was a bust. Water leaked into the head as I tried to prime is by pouring water into the inlet tubes. Yeap, not even with the filter on. When I rotated the motor, it moved the whole rubber seal around too, which goes to show that the plastic piece wasn't pressing hard enough on the outer ring of the rubber seal.










There's one more thing I can do. Since I saw where the water was leaking in from, I could seal the entire plastic piece using silicon sealant. That should keep water from leaking through the seals and into the head. Tricky bit would be to ensure its completely sealed, and there are portions which are quite difficult to reach. I can't remove the plastic piece now as its been superglued.

Oh, and look what's happened to the other 2080 I have 




Time to start checking prices for a new filter. Fluval FX-6 is half the price of an Eheim Pro 3e 450 (1700 lph and ELECTRONICS)


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## Fran

I had a pro 3 and could never get it to prime properly. Got rid of it and got a jbl 1500. Much better filter. Eheim are over priced IMO.


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## James O

Filter failure sucks 

The filter ideal is a bucket with a pump.  Two words: Ehiem Classic


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## Rahms

my fluval 206 decided to start leaking immediately after I went away for a month.  Gotta love that timing!

Where are people sourcing their JBL filters from? I'm hopping on this bandwagon...

Found an e901 on amazon for £72, wondering if I've done well? can't find much cheaper but may be looking in the wrong places.  I realise 15x turnover is maybe a bit much for my 60L  soon upgrading anyways...


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## Dave wants nano

Do JBL make a filter with a heater? If so, could I have a link.


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## flygja

I've junked one of the Eheim Pro 3 2080s. Tried silicone-gluging the area that is leaking but water is still coming in from somewhere. I might not have sealed it properly since there are places very hard to get to. Waiting for my Fluval FX-6 to arrive so I can set it up and check on the other Pro 3. Over here, Fluval FX-6 is similarly priced to JBL e1501, so I went for the Fluval for its higher turnover and the neat feature of using the pump to drain water during water change. 

Time to move on...


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## sciencefiction

I've got two Chinese filters. I've never had to change anything in them, seals, etc.. And I can count the amount of times I've put grease on the seals on one of my hands over a 4-5 year period and they're still working relentlessly.
I don't have to prime them either. I just fill them up and switch them on. They expel the air themselves even if the hoses are empty.
But they don't look as fancy as Eheims. Thankfully my fish can't see them.
I have an old Eheim 2026. It leaked but I was able to fix it by replacing a few parts(it's a known issue with the filter) and it hasn't given me trouble since. The prime button on it doesn't work so it's a pain to prime if you empty the hoses but otherwise I just fill it up to the top and it starts up.


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