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What is this? Can you plz help?
- Thread starter Ks198
- Start date
Matty123
Member
Low co2 and or poor circulation/flow. Can also result from dirty water/filter/substrate/over feeding fish. Improve these elements. I'm nearing the end of tackling my spate of it and found using double doses of Easycarbo for 2 weeks also done the trick.
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Thx. I clean the filter and trimmed the plants a bit. Hopefully it will be better. Thx
Kannu
Member
I am presuming you have read this http://www.ukaps.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=905?
Silviu Man
Member
Hi,
You may also try a natural way : Amano!
You may also try a natural way : Amano!
Hi all,
I've only ever had very limited outbreaks, and always in areas of high flow. For me I think the trigger is not cleaning the filter for a long time, and I assume I get it on the leaf tips in fast flowing water because the snails can't graze off the sporelings. I've manually removed what I could get at, but now, if I see it, I just pinch of the leaf and give the filter a clean, and that usually stops its re-appearance.
You could see how much you can remove manually and then spot dose the remains with Excel etc or 3% hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) solution.
cheers Darrel
I think the Staghorn algae (Compsopogon sp.) "plants" are pretty persistent, one reason is that the thallus is really tough and very securely fastened to the leaf. A problem with manual removal is that it often leads to leaf damage.
I've only ever had very limited outbreaks, and always in areas of high flow. For me I think the trigger is not cleaning the filter for a long time, and I assume I get it on the leaf tips in fast flowing water because the snails can't graze off the sporelings. I've manually removed what I could get at, but now, if I see it, I just pinch of the leaf and give the filter a clean, and that usually stops its re-appearance.
You could see how much you can remove manually and then spot dose the remains with Excel etc or 3% hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) solution.
cheers Darrel
Matty123
Member
From seeing the level of light you're using I take it it's a low tec tank and you aren't injecting co2?
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Konsa
Member
Hi
I will second what Darrel said.Plus the amanos will indeed not touch it once established untill it starts to die off.They work miracles on hard scape but once matured and reach their maximum size struggle too support themselves on some plants and not verry effective on plant leaves.The shrimp as cleaning crew are more to prevent the algae from establishing by keeping the surface clean rather actually eating the algae once grown.
You will need quite a few more for the size of your tank,just 2 wont cut it.
You can try to polish the water a bit better to ensure there are no fine bits of debris floating around and attaching to plant leaves.
Regards Konsa
I will second what Darrel said.Plus the amanos will indeed not touch it once established untill it starts to die off.They work miracles on hard scape but once matured and reach their maximum size struggle too support themselves on some plants and not verry effective on plant leaves.The shrimp as cleaning crew are more to prevent the algae from establishing by keeping the surface clean rather actually eating the algae once grown.
You will need quite a few more for the size of your tank,just 2 wont cut it.
You can try to polish the water a bit better to ensure there are no fine bits of debris floating around and attaching to plant leaves.
Regards Konsa
Yes that's right. Low tech and no co2
Matty123
Member
Ok. As you don't dose co2 means to say that your cause of fluctuating co2 is most probably being caused by every water change you're doing which introduces a replenished level of co2 and as soon as it's depleted your levels drop. This algae comes about because of an imbalance of co2. I'd suggest prolonging your water changes so your 'drastic' swings of co2 is lessened. But with this you'll obviously need to be scrupulous with your tank husbandry (don't overfeed, remove dead leaves, ensure filter isn't dirty etc). But be mindful that poor tank husbandry (over feeding, dirty filter and substrate) and poor flow can also cause such algae. Best thing would be to tackle each element individually as a process of elimination and take it from there. This algae will not go of its own accord as soon as it's attached but improving the conditions stated above will help to stop it from returning. In the meantime physically remove the stuff by hand (tweezer it off/remove infected leaves or use a spot treatment of a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution). Improve the balance and overtime things ought to improve.
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Hi all,
If you are concerned you can always leave the water change water standing for a couple of hours to out-gas, before you add it to the tank.
cheers Darrel
I'd have to say straight away that I'm a sceptic about <"fluctuating CO2 causes algae"> hypothesis in low tech tanks, they will always have diurnal swings in CO2 availability.
If you are concerned you can always leave the water change water standing for a couple of hours to out-gas, before you add it to the tank.
I'm a fan of water changes, this is discussed in <"Fish health in relation to no..... ">.
cheers Darrel
I think the cleanliness part is vital.....for all aquaria be it with or without Co2!
hoggie
hoggie
Matty123
Member
Yep that's another way to degas the co2 and a better suggestion of what I put! Seems more sensible that way
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Hey guys, I was on holiday for 2 weeks, so no water changes for 2 weeks. When I come back, this stuff is all over the places, they have grown so much into almost every leaves. I have trimmed all the plants down and did a 80% water changes, but still there are lots of this kind of algae in there. Where can u buy hydrogen peroxide solution in U.K.?
Andy Thurston
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