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Using dry ferts help

bhavik said:
Ceg any help?

Also I have seen some browning on the water wisteria leaves, this is what it looks like.
What is this and why is this occurring? Is it dying?
It grew great in a small 20 litre tank and moved it to the bigger tank as the plant was pretty large.
Click to expand...
Hiya mate, the fluval 205 is a small filter for a 200 ltr tank. Looking at the stats it runs at about 680 lph. When you put highish light and inject carbon dioxide into the tank you need to have good circulation around the plants. The general rule of thumb we use is 10x the volume of the tank. Manufacturers also show the turnover without filter media so realistically fully loaded your filter is turning the tank volume over about 3x per hour at best.

If your lights are lower you can get away with less circulation and no co2. Lowering lights and liquid carbon should brings things back on side and you can add another circulation pump if necessary.

Sent from my STH100-2 using Tapatalk
 
bhavik said:
Also I have seen some browning on the water wisteria leaves, this is what it looks like.
What is this and why is this occurring? Is it dying?
It grew great in a small 20 litre tank and moved it to the bigger tank as the plant was pretty large.
Click to expand...
This is a CO2 and possibly an Oxygen related issue. When you move a plant from one tank to another, the second tank may not have as much dissolved CO2 so it will take a few weeks for the plant to make an adjustment to the new CO2 levels. During that time you may have some leaf die off.

Try using an airstone at night if you have an air pump.

AS AWB mentions, if you are injecting CO2 gas then you need a substantially higher flow rate to move the dissolved gas around the tank. Typically, for gas injection, we suggest at or about 10X the tank volume per hour turnover rating using pumps and filters.

Since you are not injecting gas, you do not have the imperative for such high turnover, but think you may want something a bit stronger than a 205.
If you are not injecting gas then the need to dose high levels of nutrients also is not there. If you dose liquid carbon then yes, it will require higher dosing.

There is a huge difference between a low tech tank and a carbon enriched tank.
If you will dose liquid carbon then you will need to do it consistently every morning and perhaps dose at a higher concentration level than what the bottle suggests.
You're also advised to step up your water changes - 50% per week.

For the browning plant, pull it from the substrate and allow it to float on the water's surface for a week or two. Then replant and see if that helps.



Cheers,
 
AverageWhiteBloke said:
Hiya mate, the fluval 205 is a small filter for a 200 ltr tank. Looking at the stats it runs at about 680 lph. When you put highish light and inject carbon dioxide into the tank you need to have good circulation around the plants. The general rule of thumb we use is 10x the volume of the tank. Manufacturers also show the turnover without filter media so realistically fully loaded your filter is turning the tank volume over about 3x per hour at best.

If your lights are lower you can get away with less circulation and no co2. Lowering lights and liquid carbon should brings things back on side and you can add another circulation pump if necessary.

Sent from my STH100-2 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Ok thanks for that! what i have done now is lowered the lights and still dosing co2 to see how things go now. Im thinking of adding a spray bar to the output of the filter would that make any difference?

ceg4048 said:
This is a CO2 and possibly an Oxygen related issue. When you move a plant from one tank to another, the second tank may not have as much dissolved CO2 so it will take a few weeks for the plant to make an adjustment to the new CO2 levels. During that time you may have some leaf die off.

Try using an airstone at night if you have an air pump.

AS AWB mentions, if you are injecting CO2 gas then you need a substantially higher flow rate to move the dissolved gas around the tank. Typically, for gas injection, we suggest at or about 10X the tank volume per hour turnover rating using pumps and filters.

Since you are not injecting gas, you do not have the imperative for such high turnover, but think you may want something a bit stronger than a 205.
If you are not injecting gas then the need to dose high levels of nutrients also is not there. If you dose liquid carbon then yes, it will require higher dosing.

There is a huge difference between a low tech tank and a carbon enriched tank.
If you will dose liquid carbon then you will need to do it consistently every morning and perhaps dose at a higher concentration level than what the bottle suggests.
You're also advised to step up your water changes - 50% per week.

For the browning plant, pull it from the substrate and allow it to float on the water's surface for a week or two. Then replant and see if that helps.



Cheers,
Click to expand...

As for that plant i am seeing new shoots all over the plant like its trying to grow new a new plant from the old one im assuming that its a good thing and does that mean my co2 levels are ok?
I run an airstone all day should i cut that down just to night or leave it off all together?
Yes the 205 was given standard when i bought the tank.

also would i still be able to add these plants to my tank and see them grow?

aponogeton boivinianus
Staurogyne reps
Nymphoides sp
Vals nana
Dwarf sag
Red lotus

thanks
 
bhavik said:
As for that plant i am seeing new shoots all over the plant like its trying to grow new a new plant from the old one im assuming that its a good thing and does that mean my co2 levels are ok?
Click to expand...
Hi,
New growth is always a good thing and if they mature normally then it means CO2 is OK.
If you are not injecting gas then leaving the airstone on 24/7 is fine.
bhavik said:
also would i still be able to add these plants to my tank and see them grow?

aponogeton boivinianus
Staurogyne reps
Nymphoides sp
Vals nana
Dwarf sag
Red lotus
Click to expand...
Should be OK theoretically, but again, it depends on whether you have too much light or not.

Cheers,
 
Hard to weigh up this mate, are you adding co2 or just liquid carbon? I think earlier you mentioned you were injecting gas.

If you're injecting gas then the air stone wants to be knocked off during gas and lighting on and just put on at night as the air stone will drive off the co2 you are injecting.

Everything you have done so far will improve your situation, high lighting affects all the other things like flow, nutrients and co2, the lower the lighting the less critical these things are to some extent.

Forcing Plants to grow fast with high lights causes the demand for ferts and co2 to increase and the extra circulation to get them both all around the plants even down to the bottoms.

If you fail in any the plants suffer and algae takes over. Plants showing symptoms of poor growth and deficiency is the first sign one or all of the above is lacking. Usually co2 if I'm honest.

Less light creates less demand on co2.

A spray bar may help if positioned right to evenly distribute the water but failing that you can back that up with the various koralia style pumps that are available or the eheim 350 springs to mind. Dual purpose, it will help push a bit of water about and clear surface scum of the water. Maybe look at upgrading the filter at some point or add another and run two smaller ones if the cabinet has room. Filtration inside the filter takes a back seat to the plants anyway, they do most of the filtering and the filter just removes debris and pushes water about.

Also keep in mind that plants adapt to their environment so don't expect any over night success stories. Make some positive changes like you have and stay with that for maybe four weeks. In the mean time trim off any dying leaves which also cause problems in the tank and look for new growth. Keep on top of changing water and keeping things like the filter and tubing clean.

Reevaluate the situation then and see if further changes are needed like either working on co2 and flow or reducing the light further until you find the right balance.



Sent from my STH100-2 using Tapatalk
 
ceg4048 said:
Hi,
New growth is always a good thing and if they mature normally then it means CO2 is OK.
If you are not injecting gas then leaving the airstone on 24/7 is fine.

Should be OK theoretically, but again, it depends on whether you have too much light or not.

Cheers,
Click to expand...
No not injecting gas only adding liquid carbon
As for the lighting I have turned it down and will leave it for a couple of weeks to see how the plants are doing and then will work my way up if need be.
I also wanted to ask my lights are leds where I can change the amount of red blue and green lighting. I know the green makes no difference to the plants but what to ask how much should I keep the red and blue lights at? ATM I’ve only got the white and blue(running at 100%) running.
AverageWhiteBloke said:
Hard to weigh up this mate, are you adding co2 or just liquid carbon? I think earlier you mentioned you were injecting gas.

If you're injecting gas then the air stone wants to be knocked off during gas and lighting on and just put on at night as the air stone will drive off the co2 you are injecting.

Everything you have done so far will improve your situation, high lighting affects all the other things like flow, nutrients and co2, the lower the lighting the less critical these things are to some extent.

Forcing Plants to grow fast with high lights causes the demand for ferts and co2 to increase and the extra circulation to get them both all around the plants even down to the bottoms.

If you fail in any the plants suffer and algae takes over. Plants showing symptoms of poor growth and deficiency is the first sign one or all of the above is lacking. Usually co2 if I'm honest.

Less light creates less demand on co2.

A spray bar may help if positioned right to evenly distribute the water but failing that you can back that up with the various koralia style pumps that are available or the eheim 350 springs to mind. Dual purpose, it will help push a bit of water about and clear surface scum of the water. Maybe look at upgrading the filter at some point or add another and run two smaller ones if the cabinet has room. Filtration inside the filter takes a back seat to the plants anyway, they do most of the filtering and the filter just removes debris and pushes water about.

Also keep in mind that plants adapt to their environment so don't expect any over night success stories. Make some positive changes like you have and stay with that for maybe four weeks. In the mean time trim off any dying leaves which also cause problems in the tank and look for new growth. Keep on top of changing water and keeping things like the filter and tubing clean.

Reevaluate the situation then and see if further changes are needed like either working on co2 and flow or reducing the light further until you find the right balance.



Sent from my STH100-2 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
No not injecting only using liquid carbon.
Ok thanks for the advice i’ll see how things are going in a couple of weeks with the lighting turned down as it is right now.
I’ll have a look at the wavenakers your talking about and see if that makes a difference
 
bhavik said:
I know the green makes no difference to the plants but what to ask how much should I keep the red and blue lights at?
Click to expand...
Plants don't really care. Adjust the RGB values (and more importantnly intensity) so that the plants look good to your eyes. Plants will use whatever light you throw at them. Aim for Kelvin settings off around 6000-8000 makes the plants stand out.

See here how the different K ratings make your tank look.
https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/cheap-ho-t5-fluorescent-tubes-update-with-photos.555/
 
thanks for that!
How would I know if the lights I’ve giving right now are between 6000-8000K right now I’m running white blue and green.
Thanks
 
bhavik said:
How would I know if the lights I’ve giving right now are between 6000-8000K right now I’m running white blue and green.
Click to expand...

You don't mate and as mentioned it doesn't matter if you are or not. Set the RGB values to make the plants look greener to your eyes. Between 6000 and 8000 is suggested because this colour range is yellower and warmer making greens looks natural. Going higher makes the lights whiter and a bit unnatural looking if you go too high. The plants won't care, they'll just pick up and use the photons whatever wavelength they come in.
 
Hi thanks for that i have tried to adjust the lights as best i could here is a video of my tank and plants after i added a spray bar is that better? or should i tilt the spray bar a bit more up to increase flow?
Also right now the plants aint looking great i dont know if its because they are adjusting or dying?
the Vals look fine but the other plants are a bit touch and go i would say.

http://sendvid.com/bmrwupze
 
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