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Tom's 60P - Goodbye plants, hello Goldfish

Re: Tom's 60P build - *Paint Question

I've decided to use spray paint now - the brush-on stuff wasn't really working unfortunately. However, it has given me a very nice undercoat surface for spraying on!! I'm using the same "Pewter" spray as I did for the Mini M light unit. It's had the first coat this afternoon (1.5 cans!), and will be rubbed down later on. It will then get a few coats of "Clear Coat", smoothed off nicely.

Had a few more bits in the post recently 🙂 I picked up a Luminaire Suspension Kit earlier today too 😀
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Also bought some Brackets from B&Q this morning. They will be adapted to hold the Suspension Kit.
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Re: Tom's 60P build - the DIY stage

Tom said:
Thanks Bob,
....

The way the cabinet is build should give it plenty of strength. Here is another guide I found this morning on AquascapingWorld. They use 16mm MDF and I've used 12mm.

http://www.aquascapingworld.com/magazin ... Stand.html

by an odd co-incidence i was reading that last night. 🙂
 
Re: Tom's 60P build - Suspension kit, Change of paint

I've had to change the paint again - the PlastiKote just wasn't working. Now using Rustoleum (I think that was it) and it's absolutely bang on. So much better to use, goes on easier, sands down easier. Just don't rub with white spirit!!

Second coat's just gone on a few mins ago, and I reckon I'll have the 2nd lacquer coat on by tonight. Still haven't painted the door though. It's bowed a bit, so I might have to look into another way of doing that.
 
Re: Tom's 60P build - Change of paint - again!

NIce build Tom.
Did the door bow as a result of painting it ?

Cheers,
James
 
Re: Tom's 60P build - Change of paint - again!

Plywood is probably better as it is lighter weight and tougher than MDF.
However if it has not been stored properly it is just as likely to bow as MDF.
As long as it is flat when you get it, should be ok.
You might want to use some grain fill on the visible side, in case its still visible through the paint.

Cheers,
James
 
Re: Tom's 60P build - Change of paint - again!

Thanks James - would MDF straighten out if I weighed it down in the corners for a while?

Cheers Tony 🙂 Getting there finally!! Just need to decide if I will need to brace it at the front at all...

My heater arrived from Nayr88 too today, thanks Ryan!

Tom
 
Re: Tom's 60P build - Change of paint - again!

Tom said:
Thanks James - would MDF straighten out if I weighed it down in the corners for a while?

It's never worked for me, I think once its bowed it will never return to flat.
I've got used to checking the boards I get delivered at work. If they're not flat I send them back, much to the amusement of the delivery driver.

Cheers,
James
 
Re: Tom's 60P build - Change of paint - again!

Well I've used 6 spray cans now, and 2 of laquer, yet still cannot get it smooth. Managed to go through to the base coat again despite all these layers, and it's still not smooth. I don't know how I've managed it, because it was dead on smooth and shiny before laquering it... Next time I'll pay £300 for an ADA one, it's not worth this hassle!
 
Re: Tom's 60P build - Change of paint - again!

For my MDF cabinet I had some issues getting the paint right too. I first got hold of 'multi surface' primer which contrary to the description wouldn't work with MDF and went disgusting. I had to then had to rip off all the old paint and buy a purpose 'MDF Primer' which went on like a dream using a gloss roller. After using wet and dry and finishing pad it had a glass like finish. However I was fortunate enough to know a car sprayer who put on the actual colour so its pretty durable.

Dunno what I'm gunna do when it comes to making a bigger one!
 
Re: Tom's 60P build - Back on this!

I am back on this! After months of the 60P sitting there, I've whacked out the original emulsion and gave it a go using a small foam roller. No idea how it will turn out, but at least if it's got some paint on it I can think about maybe considering the idea of setting it up......

I'm also thinking I might make a smart looking curtain instead of a door, mounted on the inside of the front panel. Basically the less painting I have to do now, the better!!

To be continued...
 
Re: Tom's 60P build - I'm back on this!

matt acrylic spray primer then acrylic spray paint then a matt (or gloss if thats your thing) acrylic varnish covers MDF perfectly.
if you really want a perfect smooth shiney finish then wet flat it down after first layer of varnish and respray, continue this a few more times to build up a nice thick varnish finish.

MDF is mostly non porous (sp?) unlike other woods since its technically not a wood its cardboard + glue 🙂 so you have to paint it up in a similar fashion to spraying a car its long and slow but do it right and it comes up awesome.

with regards to the bowing of mdf if you've built using 18mm MDF (which for a cabinet you should never use less) there should be very very little bowing in it even over an unsupported 3 meter length there's little bow infact its less flexible over distance than ply or chipboard when compared on a like for like thickness.
 
Re: Tom's 60P build - I'm back on this!

I have a suggestion .... Find a kitchen cabinet manufacturer (or bathroom cabinets) and approach them to do the spraying. I did this in New Zealand and they charged me $100 to do the whole 3' cabinet in a full gloss white finish just like you get on kitchen or bathroom cabinet doors. It was awesome. The cabinet cost a further $100 to make. This equated (at the time) to £80 !! Much cheaper than a £300 ADA cabinet 🙂 Course, you have started now, so this may not be a viable option.
 
Re: Tom's 60P build - I'm back on this!

Thanks for the suggestions.

The roller has worked much better this time around, and although it's not perfect it's good enough and I'm happy with it 🙂

I bought some grey material today to make a curtain to hide equipment etc.

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I need to clean the glass before it's even held water!
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