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support required please

Hi all,
Chris Tinker said:
no fine sponges just blue coarse
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Perfect.
Chris Tinker said:
do you like that plastic black things? mech pro and square thing bio mech
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I don't really like any mechanical media in the filter, ideally I want all the mechanical filtration to all have happened before the water enters the filter body.

All I want entering the filter is water, ammonia and oxygen. A lot of this is do with oxygen, we need the water to remain oxygenated within the filter body. I just want the aerobic (oxic) part of the nitrogen cycle arc:

NH3/(NH4+) + O2 > NO2 + O2 > NO3 (from <"https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2011/4/chemistry">)
image_preview


The great advantage of planted tanks is that plants will mop up the nitrate (NO3), as well as depleting the ammonia and nitrite.
Chris Tinker said:
full tank shot.. i will look at getting floating plants.
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Plant health looks really good, you just need some more plants.

PM me if you are struggling to find floaters, I don't have as much Salvinia (Floating Fern) or Limnobium (Amazon Frogbit) at the moment (I've given a lot away) but I still have some spare.

cheers Darrel
 
dw1305 said:
ideally I want all the mechanical filtration to all have happened before the water enters the filter body.
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So therefore the filter will never (rarely) need cleaning if you get it right as Darrel does, This will enable you to save the maximum amount of time needed to clean your filters with an easy clean off pre-filters. Which is easier with low tech tanks when tank turnover isn't so critical.

However if you dont like the look of a prefilter in the tank and /or you are on a high tech route and if you have algae issues, Cleaning the filter weekly may be your best option (as I do). If its clean every week with no to limited detritus then decrease the filter cleaning esp if theirs no algae issues.

I do have a twinstar reactor in mine also and for the reasons Darrel mention about

dw1305 said:
I just want the aerobic (oxic) part of the nitrogen cycle
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I have the Twinstar reactor as close to the filter intake as possible so all the micro bubbles get suck into the filter for two reasons.

1.Better O2 to the filter
2. Reduces the micro bubbles in the tank so looks clearer
 
Zeus. said:
So therefore the filter will never (rarely) need cleaning if you get it right as Darrel does, This will enable you to save the maximum amount of time needed to clean your filters with an easy clean off pre-filters. Which is easier with low tech tanks when tank turnover isn't so critical.

However if you dont like the look of a prefilter in the tank and /or you are on a high tech route and if you have algae issues, Cleaning the filter weekly may be your best option (as I do). If its clean every week with no to limited detritus then decrease the filter cleaning esp if theirs no algae issues.

I do have a twinstar reactor in mine also and for the reasons Darrel mention about



I have the Twinstar reactor as close to the filter intake as possible so all the micro bubbles get suck into the filter for two reasons.

1.Better O2 to the filter
2. Reduces the micro bubbles in the tank so looks clearer
Click to expand...

just had a look... interesting. would all those bubbles not make the filter noisier?
 
dw1305 said:
Hi all, Perfect. I don't really like any mechanical media in the filter, ideally I want all the mechanical filtration to all have happened before the water enters the filter body.

All I want entering the filter is water, ammonia and oxygen. A lot of this is do with oxygen, we need the water to remain oxygenated within the filter body. I just want the aerobic (oxic) part of the nitrogen cycle arc:

NH3/(NH4+) + O2 > NO2 + O2 > NO3 (from <"https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2011/4/chemistry">)
image_preview


The great advantage of planted tanks is that plants will mop up the nitrate (NO3), as well as depleting the ammonia and nitrite. Plant health looks really good, you just need some more plants.

PM me if you are struggling to find floaters, I don't have as much Salvinia (Floating Fern) or Limnobium (Amazon Frogbit) at the moment (I've given a lot away) but I still have some spare.

cheers Darrel
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not going to even lie... tried twice to read that link and wooooosh over the head haha
 
Chris Tinker said:
just had a look... interesting. would all those bubbles not make the filter noisier?
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Lots of micro bubbles with massive surface area to volume ratio the the O2 and H2 will soon dissolve into the water as bubbles get trapped in sponges. O2 mopped up be filter Bactria so filter more aerobic and H2 released at tank water surface via equilibrium with atmospheric air (coming out of solution OFC) . Well that's my thoughts any way 😉

But no more noisier, and no micro bubbles in tank
 
Hi all,
Zeus. said:
Lots of micro bubbles with massive surface area to volume ratio the the O2
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That is the one, if the bubbles are small enough they may actually be <"very resistant to dissolving">, slightly larger ones will dissolve for the reasons @Zeus. has given.
Chris Tinker said:
would all those bubbles not make the filter noisier?
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That was one of the first criticisms of <"aeration and dissolved oxygen....">, that all the bubbles would end up in the filter and cause <"an air-lock">.

cheers Darrel
 
Hi all,
Zeus. said:
Did you mean to say '' That is the one, if the bubbles are big enough they may actually be <"very resistant to dissolving">, slightly smaller ones will dissolve for the reasons @Zeus. has given.'' As that was what I meant !?
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No, I actually meant was that nano-bubbles may persist for considerable periods of time.

The science bit is here <"Nanobubbles (ultrafine bubbles)">. I don't fully understand it, but I think it says that below a certain size threshold bubbles behave differently.
The likely reason for the long-lived presence of nanobubbles (first described on this website in 2007) is that the nanobubble gas/liquid interface has a negative charge [3424, 3473, 3531] that introduces an opposing force to the surface tension, so slowing or preventing the bubbles' dissipation.
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The slightly larger, "ultrafine bubbles", will dissolve and that will happen relatively quickly due to their high surface to volume ratio.

It is the persistence of the nanobubbles that give a "Twinstar" its anti-microbial properties.

cheers Darrel
 
That would explain why the nano bubbles last about 10-15mins in the tank. So there a slower realease of O3 (Ozone) and hence the suppose antibacteria action of the twinstar type reactor.
So seeing I have a good 90% of these nano bubbles going straight into the canister filter their could be a significant number of filter bacteria wiped out each time the reactor comes on!! But doesn't take long to replenish the numbers with bacteria. Not an issue in a well planted tank as plants/roots take care of the bulk of the bacteria filtration. But in heavily stocked fish only tanks a twinstar type reactor probably not a good idea IMO
 
Edvet said:
Not sure how much O3 would persist in those microbubbles, it's quite reactive.
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Esp when the O3 dissolves as the half life of O3 is even shorter in water than air and I'm sure it's got plenty to react with in tank water
 
i do think its fair to say too much light... one photo is bang under 1-2 lights. Other as you can see is a darker area.. lots of red algae.. and well non...

i have changed the outlet pipe size and direction to try and increase tank flow and water movement. i have also added a small pump i bought for water changes but it was too weak, was doing nothing so put a sponge on the inlet and now got a small filter sponge and more flow.

i have also got my wood finally submerged. took some slate and alfragog to weigh it down. (just incase you wondered what else changed...)

i am doing more frequent water changes, stopped dosing EI. and i think there is no NEW algae...

also despite my algae issues i personally think my rams look stunning. taking my win there... plants not so good.

another side note more trimming and re planting of my fastest growing plant... throwing any algea affected pieces though.20191020_194036.jpg 20191020_194009.jpg 20191020_193933.jpg
 
that fts makes it look loads darker than it is *too much light again even for the camers*
 
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