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Sun light

Brad123

Member
Joined
24 Jan 2013
Messages
140
Location
Oxfordshire
The last few days the sun light get the corner of the tank. The plants were the sun light gets start pearling.
Got me thinking should I turn the light up? it's at 60% cheap amazon rgb light. Seaoura is the name
Might just experiment and see.
 
Hi all,
Got me thinking should I turn the light up? it's at 60% cheap amazon rgb light.
I would, I always run the light fixtures as bright as they will go. If I have more PAR? I just have a higher plant density. I actually like the tanks to get a little oblique sunlight but I've never had a "reef bright" light.
The plants were the sun light gets start pearling.
Even at this time of year, with the sun at an oblique angle, and through a window and then the aquarium glass <"sunlight"> is <"very bright">.

cheers Darrel
 
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Have turned the light to 100% and see how it gose
 

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Hi all,
You're good with the whole 'photon cannon' approach then?
<"Yes and no">, but it doesn't matter what light I use, the <"bottom of my tanks are always"> (and always will be) a <"dark and gloomy place">. I think the fish I keep <"tend to like cover">, so it suits them and <"breaks up line of sight"> etc.

img_20231203_153953149-2-jpg-jpg.214645


The reason I can say "yes" is just that if I have a bright light? I just have a much heavier <"net curtain"> of <"floating plants">. Using full brightness just ensures that I always have enough PAR to reach LCP. Not reaching LCP is a <"variable I've discounted"> (a long with CO2 availability) for my floating plants and they are what I need for the <"Duckweed Index to work">.

In the case of "no", if you put a plant with a lot of chlorophyll, like and Anubias barteri or Bolbitis heudelotii, directly <"in intense light"> then they aren't going to enjoy themselves.

If you <"do aesthetics">, or want a carpet? Or actually <"want to see your fish">? Then you might have to play with lowering light intensity.

cheers Darrel
 
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<"Yes and no">, but it doesn't matter what light I use, the <"bottom of my tanks are always"> (and always will be) a <"dark and gloomy place">. I think the fish I keep <"tend to like cover">, so it suits them and <"breaks up line of sight"> etc.
The reason I can say "yes" is just that if I have a bright light? I just have a much heavier <"net curtain"> of <"floating plants">. Using full brightness just ensures that I always have enough PAR to reach LCP. Not reaching LCP is a <"variable I've discounted"> (a long with CO2 availability) for my floating plants and they are what I need for the <"Duckweed Index to work">.
This makes sense but I expect success is contingent on a dense covering of floating plants to soak up all that light. In the @Brad123 photo the bottom does not look like a dark and gloomy place so I wouldn't be surprised if turning the lighting all the way up led to a algae disaster in short order. That is not to say it isn't worth a go; the lights can always be turned back down again if the result is not as desired. I initially ran my setups on higher lighting but found turning the lighting down made algae much less problematic. I don't know there is anything other than anecdotal data but my impression is that high lighting intensity is more of an algae driver than extended lighting durations. LCP as a concept I also understand, just not well enough to act on usefully... I don't know what the actual measured intensity of my lighting is at any depth, and I don't know the LCP values for different types of plants either.

@Brad123 can you report back and let us know how it goes?
 
Hi all,
I expect success is contingent on a dense covering of floating plants to soak up all that light
I'm pretty sure it is. I always have, at least one, floating plant.

My initial theory was that if there is "spare" PAR a plant will use it, and I'd rather that plant <"was a plant">, rather than a green algae. I got the idea from tropical forests, <"where multiple vegetation layers"> soak up all the PAR on the way through the canopy. If you have a lagoon in the forest (<"Ox bow lake or similar">) the same process occurs, the plants using up all the PAR. There are pictures in @taistrietman's thread <"Plants to photograph for my book">.

1720021347315-jpeg.220769

I initially ran my setups on higher lighting but found turning the lighting down made algae much less problematic.
Definitely what a lot have people have found, basically if you have nutrients, water and light plants are going to grow. If I wanted to grow a lot of green algae (either planktonic or attached)? I'd go with intense light and plenty of nutrients, with ammonia (NH3) (probably from an organic source) as my fixed nitrogen supply.
I don't know there is anything other than anecdotal data but my impression is that high lighting intensity is more of an algae driver than extended lighting durations.
I think low tech. <"you are right">. High tech. people often use short duration photo periods, but I've never kept a high-tech tank.
LCP as a concept I also understand, just not well enough to act on usefully... I don't know what the actual measured intensity of my lighting is at any depth, and I don't know the LCP values for different types of plants either.
We just don't know what the LCP values for most of the plants we grow. At the very top end you can winnow out those plants <"with a high LCP">, they are the <"turned up to eleven"> plants. At the <"bottom of the range of possible LCP values">, I'd look for slow growing, chlorophyll rich, ferns and bryophytes - <"Name some SUPER low light plants">.

cheers Darrel
 
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Hi all,
That is not to say it isn't worth a go; the lights can always be turned back down again if the result is not as desired.
That would be my other argument. If the "algae filled soup" happens? You know you had enough light initially and that is a variable you can discount.

cheers Darrel
 
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And here I am running an Ecotech Freshwater Gen4 at 15% intensity with pearling midway through the photoperiod. I think I'd kill the tank in an hour if I ramped that up to 100% 😀
 
Hi all,
Ecotech Freshwater Gen4 at 15% intensity with pearling midway through the photoperiod. I think I'd kill the tank in an hour if I ramped that up to 100%
I'm sure you <"you are right"> and <"presence of pearling"> is pretty <"conclusive evidence"> that you have comfortably exceeded LCP, but it also illustrates some of the problems <"with making recommendations"> about light brightness.

If you aren't worshiping at Clive's <"Klingon temple of Megawatt"> 15% might be a very dangerous place to be.

I see that the <"Freshwater - EcoTech Marine"> - the XR30 G5 FW is 180W, and you would need a very large water column, full of plants, to fully use all of that.

I'd also be worried about planes landing on my house, having <"mistaken it for runway lights">.

cheers Darrel
 
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I'm now up to a stonking 20% and while the colour of some of the plants is more pleasing, algae has started to become an issue. I'm going back to 15%. I believe the plants take a long time to "get going" and if driven hard by crazy levels of photons, they just don't efficiently process this and the tank goes to s**t 😀

Lower light, but enough to "drive" the plant and a longer photoperiod are where it is at for me!
 
Lower light, but enough to "drive" the plant and a longer photoperiod are where it is at for me!
I've been running both my low tech tanks at relatively low light as well as long (12-13 hour) photoperiods for some 4 years now. Most plants in the easy to medium category will thrive under relatively low light - in some parts of my tanks I can barely see what's going on at the bottom but plants seems to be doing well regardless.

Cheers,
Michael
 
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