Struggling with a few plants

[dw1305]

Hi all,

it easier to digest for the non-expert person not much familiar with chemistry

The chemistry bit is the difficult bit, and also what makes it easy for <"unscrupulous vendors"> to baffle and confuse.

When we measure "KH" (such as with our API or other hobby test kits) we are in fact measuring Alkalinity or CO3 contents.

Yes and no. We are measuring alkalinity, using an acid /base titration. Usually alkalinity is related to (bi)carbonate (2HCO3- / CO3-- content, but it can be totally unrelated if the source of alkalinity is another base, like the hydroxide ion (OH-).

That is, the waters degree of ability to neutralize acid. High alkalinity or high "KH" means a high degree of acid neutralizing potential, which in turn means it will be harder to lower our pH with say botanicals or acidifying compounds. Conversely, a low "KH" or low alkalinity means that we can easily impose downward change to pH to make it more acidic which is usually beneficial for the livestock we keep in our planted tanks (originating mostly from acidic waters) and furthermore increases our plants ability to digest fertilizers.

Yes, pretty much.

Is this a sufficient way of putting it for the non-expert?

I think it probably is.

cheers Darrel

 

[MichaelJ]

Hi all,

The chemistry bit is the difficult bit, and also what makes it easy for <"unscrupulous vendors"> to baffle and confuse.

Totally agree - and I'm first in line to confess that I've been falling into that trap several times over the years.

Yes and no. We are measuring alkalinity, using an acid /base titration. Usually alkalinity is related to (bi)carbonate (2HCO3- / CO3-- content, but it can be totally unrelated if the source of alkalinity is another base, like the hydroxide ion (OH-).

I see. I suppose that would be one good exception... if using straight tap and Sodium hydroxide is used in water treatment to reduce corrosion in pipes (as you mentioned above).

I think it probably is.

cheers Darrel

Thank you Darrel. Very helpful!

Cheers,
Michael

 

[LMuhlen]

I've had some issues with wood pieces looking similar to yours, although probably other species. There would be intense algae growth on it up until the bark started rotting away and I removed it manually. After that, I had close to no algae on the wood.

I would suggest removing the bark whenever possible. It seems to rot in an accelerated rate and promote algae growth and who knows what else.

 

[G H Nelson]

Hi
I would ditch the Cabomba...... I've not had great success with this plant unless I use Co2 and lower the hardness!

Cabomba aquatica

Cabomba aquatica is a highly variable fanwort originating from the northern and central parts of South America. There are various colour varieties, the most frequently found in trade form of which is a green plant named giant Cambomba. C. a...

www.flowgrow.de

Cabomba furcata - Red Cabomba

The difficulties many hobbyists are faced with when cultivating Cabomba furcata are probably the reason why it is not very popular in the hobby. Native to Central and South America, C. furcata prefers slow-flowing waters with a slightly aci...

www.flowgrow.de

 

[GraemeVW]

I've had some issues with wood pieces looking similar to yours, although probably other species. There would be intense algae growth on it up until the bark started rotting away and I removed it manually. After that, I had close to no algae on the wood.

I would suggest removing the bark whenever possible. It seems to rot in an accelerated rate and promote algae growth and who knows what else.

This is plum.
Everything I read says hard fruit wood should be ok.
I was going to strip the bark but I like it so thought I'd see How it goes.
I get zero algae unless I have the lights up high, and even then I only get algae on the areas 6" below the light.

It's something I always planned to keep an eye on.
Rather than fill out, the plants have receded so there isn't as much plant as I'd expected at this stage. If I still get algae once I have the plants where they should be I'll look into it more.
I don't mind some algae though, looks natural, and the angels enjoy eating it.

 

[GraemeVW]

Hi
I would ditch the Cabomba...... I've not had great success with this plant unless I use Co2 and lower the hardness!

Cabomba aquatica

Cabomba aquatica is a highly variable fanwort originating from the northern and central parts of South America. There are various colour varieties, the most frequently found in trade form of which is a green plant named giant Cambomba. C. a...

www.flowgrow.de

Cabomba furcata - Red Cabomba

The difficulties many hobbyists are faced with when cultivating Cabomba furcata are probably the reason why it is not very popular in the hobby. Native to Central and South America, C. furcata prefers slow-flowing waters with a slightly aci...

www.flowgrow.de

It's looking like that will be for the best. I knew I couldn't grow red, but thought I may get away with green. Seems that was a bit hopeful!
Even with just 24hrs of more light, it has started to grow again on the tips, but I think it's best I replace it with other plants

 

[PARAGUAY]

Try cramming the right hand side with Hyg.Polysperma and Egeria. Together with the floating plants and a twice a week W/C for now.

 

[Annie G]

Plants are fickle. I have vallis in two tanks. The parameters are the same (Gh, Kh, pH), both low tech. Substrate in both is Fluval Stratum, although In one tank it is a deeper layer. In the larger tank the vallis are struggling to grow whilst in in the second they are growing so long they have curled against the glass and are heading back the way they came!

 

[_Maq_]

When you dissolve NaOH in water, it dissociates in Na+ + OH-. However, if there's any CO2 dissolved in such water - which is the rule as long as pH is under 8,3 - then following reaction occurs: CO2 + OH- --> HCO3-, i.e. bicarbonate. So, we are back to carbonate system.

 

[GraemeVW]

I cut back alot of the cabomba, trimmed and replanted alot of the limnophilia.
I also added some more plants, some hygrophila, Sagittarius, helanthium, staurogyne, Monte Carlo and some miss
I chanced my arm with most of these, only really expect the hygrophila to survive.
They all seem ok, except for the monte Carlo though which is just melting. I sort of expected that though.

The main puzzle is the frogbit is dying off.
I did a large water change last weekend, and will continue with weekly large changes (up to 40-50% from 15-20%).
I have also doubled the dose of tnc complete. When this runs out I'll start mixing my own from dry.
Lighting is now back up to maximum at 100w (0.5wpL).
Algae growth has increased slightly, but not loads. Again, expected that as it still needs more quick growing plants. The limnophilia grows very well though so at the moment I'm just trimming and replanting that.

As I say though, the frogbit looks a right mess! Is it getting burned from water splash? It has a 10w led spotlight about 6" above it.
Compared to how it was a week ago, it's struggling!

 

[dw1305]

Hi all,

I have also doubled the dose of tnc complete. When this runs out I'll start mixing my own from dry.

The net vein reticulated pattern is <"definitely a deficiency symptom">. It looks like it might be iron deficiency, but at some point <"in the recent past">? I say that because the newer leaves look healthier again.

Is it getting burned from water splash?

I'd guess not, and that once your nutrient deficiency is sorted out they will grow away without any problem,

cheers Darrel

 

[GraemeVW]

Hi all,

The net vein reticulated pattern is <"definitely a deficiency symptom">. It looks like it might be iron deficiency, but at some point <"in the recent past">? I say that because the newer leaves look healthier again.

I'd guess not, and that once your nutrient deficiency is sorted out they will grow away without any problem,

cheers Darrel

I think the nutrient deficiency was because they were in a different tank.
I had some in both tanks, then I put it all in the smaller tank. It wasn't doing so well so I put it all back in the big tank. It started to pick up again and it had been a week or two when I took that first picture.
So it went from a nutrient deficient tank, to one where it recovered, and now its gone downhill again!
The tank has glass covers so I've now left them open in case it was an access to co2 issue too.

I did an extra mid week 50% water change tonight too as nitrates were very high. Maybe I'd been overdoing the tnc recently?

I've made a fair few changes at once, so I'll carry on with the higher light and bigger water changes. I'll keep the covers open and keep dosing ferts and see how it responds with a few weeks of this new regime.

 

[eminor]

Cabomba is like hygrophila pinnitifada, bipolar plant, either they grow like weed or don't at all, cabomba is a light monster, i used to grow it in sand with low fertilizer, if you look at the video below you'll see that she grow where there is ton of PAR, even in the shadow the par outside is far more than in our aquarium

cabomba/limnophila natural habitat